All posts by Grisha Stewart (Staff)

When is the Right Time for Another Heart Dog?

It’s taken me almost ten years after Peanut’s passing to get a new heart dog, but she’s finally arrived!

A month ago, we brought home a new puppy, a Rat Terrier x Australian Cattle Dog. She’s 5 months old and is already lighting up my life.

I can’t believe it’s been almost a decade. How did I get here? First a quick pause to meet Mesquite:

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve had dogs this whole time. Bean was already in the home for a year when Peanut passed away from cancer. I had time to fall in love with Bean. After Peanut died, I got a second dog for him, Zuki, when I knew I wasn’t ready, but she needed a home and Bean enthusiastically chose her. I was heartbroken when Bean died at age of five, in the jaws of a coyote. We still have Zuki, and my husband has also gotten a Lab, his own heart dog, Joey.

As much as I do love Zuki, and as much as it pains me to say, she’s not my heart dog. I think it’s mostly due to getting her too soon after losing Peanut. Ever since Bean passed, I’ve been without a heart dog, as part of a person. I’m not just me, I’m part of a We that includes a canine partner.

Image reads: "I love you" as in "I will work ceaselessly to create a world where you are free"Now that I’m reinvigorated and inspired in my work with dogs again, I feel safe enough to vulnerably admit that it’s been hard to summon passion for dog training since losing Bean. Grief had rooted in the places where curiosity about dogs normally lives. I’m the best teacher when I’m also a learner, and I didn’t have my own heart dog to practice with. My heart dogs are also my muses, my greatest teachers, my reason to keep being so fascinated with every head turn, every lip lick, every choice. So many dog trainers burn out and I wonder if we need more grief support in this industry.

I’m grateful that we have had so many amazing collaborations at the GSA because so many amazing humans brought their insightful fire and spirit, and I’ve been able to showcase them. I’m also grateful for the folks who have been learning BAT from past Grisha in all of the self-paced classes. Every time I hear of a dog living their best life because of my work, or a new person gets certified in BAT, I get a little spark of joy and inspiration. It’s been enough to keep me going, but I’ve still been craving the missing part of my heart.

I focused on mourning deliberately when Peanut died and took the time to grieve when Bean was killed, too. Grief has become a special interest of mine, especially after becoming a widow, and I even took classes to learn how to hold grief spaces for others. I am so glad I leaned into my grief intentionally, as it was able to soften much of the heartache I carried. At the same time, there was still more in there, more to grieve in community grief spaces, in conversations, and alone on walks.

I mentioned that grief took up residence in the part of me where my love for dogs lived. This impacted my work. Peanut is at the heart of BAT. He inspired the core of my interest in dogs, and of course, he was my greatest teacher. The most obvious grief was in the first year, when it hurt to show videos of him in workshops. Over time, it became invisible, even to me. I experienced joy thinking of him, not sorrow. Every so often, in a deep community grief ritual, I’d be able to pull up some unprocessed bit of the loss and release it. What I didn’t realize is that I still had some numbness to feel into.

I’d been starting to get curious about having another puppy for the last half a year or so, little sparks of ‘maybe.’ And then last month, the final piece that was holding me back from falling in love with a dog again was able to melt.

I was facilitating an online grief space and ended up, coincidentally, needing to do the Zoom session from my car. I was visiting Seattle, where I lived when Peanut and I first became family. I decided to park my car outside of the apartment I lived in when Peanut came home to us, two-pounds of black furry puppy-ness.

When my turn came to share, the dam broke, and I cried and shared sorrow I didn’t realize I was carrying. After the session, I walked around the neighborhood and thought tenderly of his puppyhood. On the drive home the next day, I decided to get a puppy, but set a timeline for after Zuki passed away. Her nervous system is set high and I didn’t want it to influence the puppy.

But then I spoke with Claire Goyer, who is the administrator of the Grisha Stewart Academy. She gave me more space to share my feelings and talk through the reasoning. We were able to work through ideas of how to navigate the training for the puppy, and I decided the very next day that it was time to find my new heart dog. I’m so grateful for Claire’s patient listening.

I found Mesquite (aka Keeti/Mosquito/Keto) at a local rescue on Petfinder. I was hoping to find a dog who was chill and easy, already socialized. But you get the dog you need, not the dog you want. She had basically never walked outside except in a backyard. Her little paw pads were bright pink. She was terrified of noises, people, dogs, and so much more. And yet in her comfort zone, she’s outgoing, bright, eager, and a bit pushy. It’s been a month and BAT has been working wonders with her.

I have to admit, that despite BAT helping so many dogs, I’ve been battling with a sort of imposter syndrome without Bean and Peanut around. That somehow I’m not qualified to teach people about how to support their dogs if I don’t have a dog of my own that I’m excited to train and work with. That maybe I’ve lost my chops.

Working with Mesquite and watching her quickly open up to this new-to-her world has helped my doubts fall away. I remember why I developed BAT in the first place, and I’m just in awe of it’s effectiveness now as I was then. I remember why it evolved and experience so much joy seeing BAT work for her.

Most importantly, I don’t have to feel like an expert any more. I can feel like a beginner, just a dog mom who is in love and curious and excited to share what works. I’m weaving in more bonding and play and taking note of what survival skills help her the most. BAT feels alive to me again, as I learn how to apply it to expand Mesquite’s world.

If I had it to do the last 10 years again, the main part I would change is my self-doubt that convinced me that numbness was some sort of character flaw, instead of a sign that more grief needed to be felt.

Thank you community grief work for bringing me to this place of acceptance. Thank you Peanut for still being part of my heart, always and forever. Thank you Mesquite, for helping my heart beat again. Also thanks you to the folks over the years who have helped keep BAT alive and have kept my interest in dogs afloat.

So back to my question at the top, when is the right time for a new heart dog? For me, it’s right now. I think it’s just whenever your heart says you’re ready. You may be able to fall in love a month after your dog passes. It might be a year. Or ten. If you’re not ready yet, if you’re feeling numb or resentful or tearful, don’t worry. Just keep leaning into the work of grief. Tears are medicine for the soul. Shed them. We’re all different. Don’t rush it.

Your capacity to love a dog is a treasure that’s just waiting to be found again.

LESSON IS LOVE PODCAST S1E8: Feeling Into the Possibility of a Different World | Shireen Amini

“I feel like when we gather to sing–when I call it like a little bubble of a universe–to me it’s like, we have to know what it feels like to then know how to bring it in the greater bubbles, the greater ripples until it becomes something that we know how to feel as an entire global community.” -Shireen Amini Continue reading LESSON IS LOVE PODCAST S1E8: Feeling Into the Possibility of a Different World | Shireen Amini

Lesson is Love Podcast S1E7: Tender Touch, Practice vs Performance, and The Skill of Tracking | Aaron Johnson

“For me when I think of consent, particularly black bodies and animals and touch and the violations that have been historically in place and how we’re finding new language and new ways to be together, I feel like the question I often have is: can we slow down and acknowledge what’s happened? Can we see all the levels of choice that are given to folks, and all the ways that choice is not given to folks?” -Aaron Johnson  Continue reading Lesson is Love Podcast S1E7: Tender Touch, Practice vs Performance, and The Skill of Tracking | Aaron Johnson

Lesson is Love Podcast S1E6: Tapping, Embodied Healing Practices, and The Value of Re-Membering | Damon Silas

“We are whole mind, body, soul beings. And so to just do therapy with the frontal part of the brain is doing the rest of the body a disservice. It’s doing the rest of your healing process a disservice. And not saying that for some people, traditional talk therapy might be their thing–and I love it for you–and our bodies hold so much valuable information as well, and I think it’s important to acknowledge the messages that our bodies hold too.” -Damon Silas Continue reading Lesson is Love Podcast S1E6: Tapping, Embodied Healing Practices, and The Value of Re-Membering | Damon Silas

Lesson is Love Podcast S1E4: How To Be With Every Part of Yourself | Karen Faith

“We should always be our own safest person; it would be really alarming if we were not. But creating that safety takes some work. I know so many people do not have safety with themselves. If I had a mission that would be it, to just help people be safer with themselves.’” -Karen Faith  Continue reading Lesson is Love Podcast S1E4: How To Be With Every Part of Yourself | Karen Faith

Lesson is Love Podcast S1E3: Practicing Grief and Practicing Pleasure | Alexandra ”Ahlay” Blakely

*Content warnings: mentions of African diaspora slavery at 13:35-14:50 and 36:27-37:25, the Holocaust at 19:00-21:00, and CSA at 25:35-26:00*

“This is why these things are happening, because it’s only through the embodiment of these knowings do you carry the wisdom as an elder. And so the song came through: ‘Move at the speed of trust and breathe…what kind of elder do you want to be?’” -Alexandra “Ahlay” Blakely Continue reading Lesson is Love Podcast S1E3: Practicing Grief and Practicing Pleasure | Alexandra ”Ahlay” Blakely

Lesson is Love Podcast S1E2: It’s OK to Not Know (Yet) | Justin Farren

I felt like I was out of control and I didn’t want anybody else to think I was out of control. So that was just young Justin not being comfortable with: ‘I don’t know.’ Just being comfortable with, ‘this dog sometimes does stupid stuff and it’s not my fault, it’s something we should be working through together.'” -Justin Farren Continue reading Lesson is Love Podcast S1E2: It’s OK to Not Know (Yet) | Justin Farren

Lesson is Love Podcast S1E1: Emotional Balance is as Easy as Riding a Unicycle | David Wilcox

I love songs that will give me the emotional reality of something I want to live into, so that I can feel it present tense and anchor that experience…and hold that experience as irrefutable proof of: ‘it’s possible to be there. It’s possible to get there.’” -David Wilcox Continue reading Lesson is Love Podcast S1E1: Emotional Balance is as Easy as Riding a Unicycle | David Wilcox

Do Know About Qualitative Research Methodologies? Guest post by Susan Friedman

Most of us learned about group experimental research in our middle school years. You know the one – there is a treatment group and a control group and after the treatment is delivered to the first group,  group means are compared in an attempt to measure the effect of the treatment. This methodology is suited to questions about averages and probabilities for example, the average lifespan of a particular breed of dog.

Some of us learned about single subject experimental research designs (SSD). You may have heard of reversal or multiple baseline designs. SSDs are especially suited to understanding and improving the behavior of an individual across different conditions, i.e., baseline measures compared to intervention phases. These designs are important for tracking and dynamically tweaking training interventions.

For example, we could measure the baseline rate of a particular dog jumping on visitors and then measure the rate again when “4 feet on the floor” is reinforced with praise and a toy.

The feature that makes both of these methodologies “experimental” is that there is treatment variable, or intervention, that is systematically manipulated and the effects of that manipulation is quantified in some way.

A perhaps less well known research methodology in the social sciences, but equally important, is called qualitative research. Qualitative research is not experimental. Rather, “Qualitative researchers seek to make sense of personal stories and the ways in which they intersect” (Glesne & Peshkin, 1992). You can see how this methodology is well suited to questions for which personal experience is the most important information we seek, such as the detriments of a lifetime of the lack of diversity, inclusion and equity.

This is the methodology that Dr. Katherina Alvarez used in her study,  The Reality of Being a Black, Indigenous, and Global Majority Dog Professional.” With each deep interview, we are given the opportunity to gain insight into what it feels like to be another person and to understand the world as another experiences it.

For additional information about the contributions of the qualitative research paradigm as researchers seek to improve the quality of life for all learners, see https://researchbasics.education.uconn.edu/qualitative_research/ and https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4275140/#:~:text=Qualitative%20research%20involves%20asking%20participants,world%20as%20another%20experiences%20it.

_______________________

About  Susan Friedman, PhD, Psychology Professor Emeritus at Utah State University of BehaviorWorks

Susan pioneered the application of Applied Behavior Analysis (ABA) to captive and companion animals. ABA, with its roots in human learning, offers a scientifically sound teaching technology and ethical standard that can improve the lives of all learners.

She has written chapters on learning and behavior for three veterinary texts (Behavior of Exotic Pets, Clinical Avian Medicine, and Manual of Parrot Behavior), and is a frequent contributor to popular magazines. Her articles appear around the world in eleven languages. Susan has presented seminars for a wide variety of professional organizations around the world such as the Association of Avian Veterinarians, the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria, Moorpark College Exotic Animal Training and Management program, and NASA’s Goddard Space Flight Center.

She has been nominated for the Media Award given by the International Association of Behavior Analysis for her efforts to disseminate to pet owners, veterinarians, animal trainers and zookeepers the essential tools they need to empower and enrich the lives of the animals in their care.

Susan also teaches Why Animals Need Trainers Who Adhere to the Least Intrusive Principle in the Grisha Stewart Academy

The Reality of Being a Black, Indigenous, and Global Majority Dog Professional

Save the date! May 31 is Katherina’s webinar on social justice for all dog professionals.

*Content Warning: discussion of systemic and interpersonal racism and other forms of oppression, with specific examples.*

Dr. Katherina Alvarez has conducted fascinating and powerful original research to explore inequities in the dog training/behavior industry and what we can do about it.

This is her first article about her powerful qualitative research on this subject. I’m publishing it here on my site (and Katherina will do the same on hers) because it was surprisingly challenging to publish in a dog trainer organization’s journal (we did only try one journal and plan to share to others). That’s all I’ll say about that, except that I’ve never faced this type of difficulty getting my own work published, as a white person, and it kind of proves exactly it needs to be published and READ. That last part is up to you. 🙂

Here’s the link to Dr. Alvarez’s article if you want to go right to it: “The Reality of Being a Black, Indigenous, and Global Majority Dog Professional.”

[When you share this, please link directly to the page my site, grishastewart.com/racism, or Katherina’s (preferably hers once it’s posted on katherinaalvarez.com). Thanks!]

I’d also like to explore why I think her article so important for you to read, especially if you are white and thus have the privilege of not having to think about how race affects your role as a dog professional. My comments are below.  -Grisha

Katherina also has a webinar coming up: Social Justice: Cultivating Equity for All Dog Professionals on May 31.


When Katherina and I first began working together on her research project well over a year ago, the first question was “Does race affect the experience of BIPGM dog professionals” and “If so, how?” She explained that without asking BIPGM trainers and behaviorists their experiences, any attempts to address inequity could fall flat, or worse, cause harm. We needed data.

Katherina weaves quotes from one of the interviews into her article. The experiences of a Black veterinarian and dog trainer pain a clear picture. Thank you Alicia* for boldly sharing your story. And thank you to the many others who also shared their experiences for the full project.

“When I graduated, I couldn’t get a job at first, although my classmates had jobs before we graduated. I was even flown, all expenses paid, to interview for jobs only to be told within an hour of arriving, they had filled the job, or ‘our clients would not accept a Black veterinarian.’I had not put my photo on my resume.

Once I did that, I was not able to get an interview for a few months. I finally was hired at a hospital, where it turned out the owner was a staunch racist and hired me because he could pay me half what my classmates were getting. I couldn’t stay there…”

We dog trainers and behaviorists have such an opportunity. We are uniquely educated to see patterns of behavior and understand systems.

Opportunities aren’t equally distributed in our human world. Yet.

If some aspect of your identity is marginalized, you already know that, of course.

If you’re white, even if you have other marginalized identities, you may not really fully understand the extent of systemic oppression, even if you think you do. It’s a deep, deep well. I ask you to take special note and really read Dr. Alvarez’s article carefully and attend her upcoming Social Justice webinar, which includes all forms of oppression, all the -isms, with a special focus on systemic racism. I can attest that I’ve personally learned a lot from this collaboration and hope you will, too.

How does privilege show up in dog training? What systemic changes would remove unequal obstacles for BIPGM people to thrive as dog professionals?  Katherina’s research conducted interviews with BIPGM dog professionals to work toward understanding that, at least within our industry.

As Katherina explains in the article, privilege isn’t about having everything you want, or for things to be easy. It means having what you have is unfairly easier for you than it is for others.

The rules of the ‘game’ of life aren’t the same for everyone, and that needs to change. [To see that in actual game form, check out Disparity Trap: The Unfair Game of Life]

Part of my success as a professional dog trainer and author is due to the connections I’ve made. Learning about social justice and doing the work helps me acknowledge that the ‘doors’ that my network opened along the way are harder for Black, Indigenous, and People of the Global Majority (BIPGM) to open. Networking matters. Go out of your way to expand your network.  This need for better networking opportunities for BIPGM trainers is something that came through in Katherina’s research.

[Attend Katherina’s Social Justice webinar to help learn what doors are shut for other people because of the various -isms.]

Here’s an example of what can happen when white people don’t actively work to expand their networks. In 2022, I signed the Minimum Viable Diversity pledge, which is: “I will never speak at any paid conferences or panels as part of a homogeneous group of speakers” – and I also pledge the same for free events. I was told by multiple hosts that they couldn’t find enough speakers from diverse backgrounds, so I declined their invitation to present. I’d like to say to every host out there: go out of your way to expand your network. I invite you ask me if you need help finding speakers.

[If you’re a speaker with marginalized identity and want to be on my list to share with hosts, or if you’ve got some sort of obstacle and want a connection I may be able to make from my network, I invite you to get in touch with me (or just message me if we’re already friends on FB or Instagram.) This is me going out of my way to expand my network.

And it’s not a big ask to contact me if you’re looking for a seminar host in a certain country or whatever else. It’s super common to tap into one’s network to ask for connections. I imagine most of the other dog speakers would do the same for you, too. None of us do this alone.]

Our species is globally interconnected, now more than ever (though we still must, must, must do our individual self-reflective and learning work — especially folks with systemic privilege, leadership positions in the dog industry, or even an active social media presence, who are in a position to do more unintentional harm). As Professor Angela Davis pointed out in a recent talk on social justice and joy, we also have systemic privilege as humans, and we are interconnected to all species on this living planet.

We  suffer when any other being suffers and we experience joy as a response to their joy. That’s what mirror neurons are for. We living beings feel one another. When we pay attention, we can feel ourselves. I feel you. You feel me. We, as individuals and various groups of identities, are also part of one big nervous system.

To me, caring means considering the perspective, pain points, joys of all humans (all beings, ideally), with my defenses down, in order to be part of co-creating a world in which all of us can thrive. Each of us has different information and together we have more of the whole picture. My perspective is that life is not a test, it is a lesson, and that lesson is love.

With defenses down, we can learn, and mess up, and learn, and mess up, and learn until clarity begins to emerge. That’s the personal work I’m doing on my own bias and if you’re not already doing that, I invite you to try it. It’s ok to ‘get it wrong’ and keep trying, keep learning to expand awareness of how others see the world, how they see you.

That’s why Katherina’s article is so important. It brings awareness to the million tiny cuts of microaggressions from internalized bias and the large disparities in our systems. And what we can do about it.

Microaggressions are a million small ways of phrasing things or making assumptions that come from holding some sense of superiority or exclusivity because of the color of one’s skin. And this is not because white people are bad, or we are some sort of irretrievably broken human that is a racist, but because we are learners in an evolving system that favors white skin. That system is changing, bit by bit. We are all subject to learning, every one of us.

In areas in which you hold privilege, you will make ‘mistakes’ along the way. You will accidentally do harm via microaggressions or other means. I have done so myself and unfortunately, I surely will again. One particular growth area for me right now is to note that I hold privilege in areas I didn’t have as a child. Systemic privilege is not a fixed thing. It changes, so I have the opportunity to examine my inner world and mindfully adapt.

That’s part of this work, learning how to stop bumping into walls, setting shame and defensiveness aside to hold yourself accountable for harm, restoring justice through reparations from harm you’ve done, allowing our perspective to grow from interacting with others. We can all examine our actions and learn from them.

I share some of my own story and perspective to help bridge this for white people who might need motivation to pay more attention to BIPGM people. To make it relevant. Important. Arguably the most important work we will ever do. I am not the expert in this, though I am educating myself. I am not leading anything. I am following, holding space, helping voices be heard. Using my privilege to asking questions and shift the status quo.

I also wrote this post because this is something white people don’t often talk about. I share it vulnerably for BIPGM people and other marginalized groups to know where I stand in this moment in my learning journey. I’m learning out loud. This blog post is a living document and I’m open to your suggestions to be of better service. Thank you to those who have already made suggestions, feel free to circle back.

Speaking of circling back, let’s go back to that first question. Katherina’s research clearly shows that race does have an impact on the experience of BIPGM dog professionals and it suggests very specific changes to promote equity.

As behaviorists, we understand systems of behavior. We are great at looking at the needs of each being in a family system and finding ways to create harmony. We are uniquely positioned to make the whole world better, not just our industry, but it’s an excellent place to start.

Katherina sums it up well in the article: “Remember that combating racism is an ongoing process that requires continuous learning, unlearning, and relearning. It is crucial to hold yourself accountable and be open to feedback from marginalized communities. Racism is a social problem with a social solution that requires commitment, unity, and hard work from all of us.

This conversation is constantly evolving, so I encourage you to keep up with readings and the growing collective knowledge, to be open to learning new concepts and frameworks, and to walk away with even more questions. This is only the beginning of a deeper and urgent conversation.”

If any of that struck a chord (or if you’ve even just made it this far), please download and read Katherina’s article, “The Reality of Being a Black, Indigenous, and Global Majority Dog Professional.”

Dr. Alvarez is teaching a webinar to expand on the article. Please join in and help us spread the word: Social Justice: Cultivating Equity for All Dog Professionals on May 31.

Katherina will be joined in the Q&A with Kassidi Jones, PhD Candidate (@gingers_naps on Instagram). You can find more about Dr. Alvarez at KatherinaAlvarez.com.

p.s. All proceeds for seminar purchases go to the presentation speakers and their NVC facilitators (not to me).

p.p.s. Money should never be a barrier to education. Academy scholarships are also available.

* Alicia is a pseudonym, for her protection.

Update summary: 

  • Replaced thought experiment with actual data from the article. That’s a way better way to amplify BIGPM voices.
  • Focused the spotlight on Dr. Alvarez’s article, because getting people to read it is the whole point of this blog post.
  • Doubled-down on vulnerability.
  • Clarified why I am speaking about myself at all here and removed some of it.

Living Our Values

MISSION:

Our mission is to help humans and dogs thrive together by empowering learners to become thoughtful, compassionate, and skilled. We strive to leave every student feeling more confident, more curious, and excited to keep learning.

VALUES:
While we are the home of BAT and it weaves throughout the Academy, we also believe there is no single right technique for every dog family. We value science, non-violence, creativity, critical thinking, and the wisdom that comes from humble listening: to our dogs, to one another, and to new evidence.

We recognize dogs as whole beings; shaped by their species, their individual histories, and their nervous systems. Behavior is an attempt to feel safe and good; it communicates what’s happening beneath the surface. We pay attention to the body, stress and regulation, safety and connection, species needs, environment, and the ways trauma and attachment shape experience. Our work supports learning grounded in felt safety, agency, and trust.

We honor humans as whole beings, too; shaped by culture, lived experience, identity, relationships, and their own nervous systems. We recognize that each person brings a unique history and perspective to their relationship with dogs, and that factors such as culture, access, and personal circumstances influence how learning is experienced. We strive to create a space where people feel respected and valued, where different perspectives can be explored with curiosity, and where belonging is something we practice and co-create together.

We value progress over perfection. Growth requires curiosity, humility, and a willingness to change our minds. We are committed to creating a learning community where kindness, respect, and thoughtful dialogue support both learning and belonging.

We are always in the process of becoming, continually reflecting on how to bring our actions into ever-closer alignment with our intentions and values.

The Mission at Work: What are We Doing? Continue reading Living Our Values

Follow: On “Not-Wanting” Progress (or how to Relax and Just Follow Your Dog)

Guest post by Jo Laurens, CBATI, BA(HONS), MA, PGDIPCOUNS, PGCERT, CERTCOUNS, MBACP (ACCRED)

Jo Laurens is the author of “Force-Free Gundog Training” and the host of the “Hold The Line” podcast. Jo lives in the U.K. and is a true student of canine behavior, in addition to being a world-renowned sporting dog trainer.

‘Follow your dog’

Most dog trainers and guardians using (Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) for aggression, frustration, and fear, know that it’s important not to lead the dog towards the trigger. Instead, we try to follow the dog’s movements and to remain behind them. Most of the time, we want to influence things as little as possible. The dog decides where to go (with a few exceptions).

We do this because we want the dog to feel empowered and in control whilst in the presence of the trigger. Feeling in control means they will feel safer, around the scary thing. And, the safer they feel, the less need they will have to be reactive, to keep that scary thing away from them.

Leading dogs around — or even influencing their direction in subtle ways — won’t help them to feel empowered and in control when they are near the trigger.

But lots of people do lead dogs about excessively in BAT Set-Ups, often without even realizing they are doing this.

Continue reading Follow: On “Not-Wanting” Progress (or how to Relax and Just Follow Your Dog)

The S.A.F.E. Framework for Dog Training & Care: Secure Attachment Family Education

By “misses you” I mean they notice Keep reading this article to get to the quiz on whether your training or activities encourage secure attachment.

We ‘dog people’ love our dogs, in ways that people who aren’t bonded to dogs just don’t understand. We have formed a special kind of connection, what scientists call an attachment relationship.

It’s not just a preference to attach. We’re literally biologically linked to our attachment figures. Our heart rates and breathing sync up, and if the relationship is secure, even imagining the attachment figure increases heart rate variability, meaning our mammalian nervous system is more resilient and better able to respond to stress (Bryant & Hutanamon, 2018).  Life is less scary, less painful, and more interesting with healthy attachments.

Attachment includes proximity seeking, which is one explanation for why my dog, Joey, just brought his toy to chew on my leg.

We can make life better for our dogs by paying attention to their experience of attachment relationships. To that end, I’ve developed a framework to systematically apply attachment theory to canine learning, which I call Secure Attachment Family Education (S.A.F.E.). This is big stuff and I hope you’ll read it through!

Continue reading The S.A.F.E. Framework for Dog Training & Care: Secure Attachment Family Education

Confession: I Hate My Dog’s Reactivity

Joey the Labrador Retriever
My Labrador Retriever teenager, Joey

I have a confession to make. Today was a down day, that kind of day where I wasn’t my best dog trainer self. At all.

To paraphrase a Reddit that I found when I furiously googled “I hate my dog,” in that moment of frustration, I hated him with the passion of 10,000 suns. A surprising number of people have written on the internet that they hate their dogs.

And although hate is too strong of a word, even though it’s not my whole truth, and even though I’m a dog trainer and I love dogs, especially this one, and truly hate no one…it still feels really, really freeing to type out the words, “I hate my dog.”

Continue reading Confession: I Hate My Dog’s Reactivity

Speak Up and Train / Log Off and Train

The phrase, “shut up and train” has been around for at least a decade or two, but it’s gotten in my head lately.

I’m going to split hairs here, and I totally understand that part of the point of “shut up and train” is to stop splitting hairs, to log off and train our dogs. But I don’t want to respond to a command to shut up, and I have a little time, so here goes.

Words matter, even when they’re meant to be a little tongue-in-cheek. Can we inspire ourselves or others without giving a command to shut up?

“Shut up” is loaded with conditioning. Using the phrase brings that conditioning with it, and it’s part of why it’s effective. Punishment does, after all, work, it just has negative side effects. It’s kind of like a trainer saying that they just use the beep of an ecollar after training, that it’s not aversive any more because they aren’t needing to shock. It’s there, in the language.

We’re capable of finding a kinder way to inspire people, as trainers, teachers, motivators of behavior. I have faith in us. 

The intentions of the phrase have merits.

For example, one more modern interpretation of the phrase is to encourage us to clock more actual time physically working with our dogs, off of the computer, (as in gabbing about it on Facebook, arguing amongst ourselves, or, writing articles that split hairs about phrases like “shut up and train” (yes, I see the irony). [Two articles from 2016 here and here].

How we do one thing is how we do everything, and attitude matters. Phrasing matters. Surely there’s a more life-giving and respectful way to motivate ourselves to than by saying “shut up”? How about “Show up and train?”

Do we need an aversive shock like “shut up” to get us out of the thrall of our devices, because they have trained us so well to keep pushing buttons for virtual treats?  “Why are you staring at the square?” is what I think my dog wonders (phrasing from Anders Hallgren). As we say in the school, “Pause to practice.”

As a trainer, you can also focus more on the consequences, because that will help remind you to train. Create your own reinforcement plan to build the behavior of training your dog, if you want to train more.

Back to more perks of shutting up and training…

One of the original meanings was to be less chatty while training. Focusing on nonverbal behavior when working with nonverbal animals is pretty useful.

For example, if we’re constantly talking to our dogs as we train, it’s hard for them, and us, to focus on things like timing, behavior chains, treat delivery, reinforcement schedules, and carefully observing the dog’s behavior.

It’s also helpful to not overload our human learners. If you’re a trainer, be concise and show the client what you’re talking about by demonstrating with an animal, sharing a video, or walking them through training their dog. Speak mindfully, with long moments of silence to enable focus when the caregiver is practicing.

If you’re wanting to convince someone else to train without intimidation, and they’re not yet asking you questions, the best way to do that is just to show them that it’s working. I understand the desire to say “shut up and train” to yourself (or others) there, but “show up and train” still works without the implied insult. Or just “lead by example.” 🙂

My  issue with the phrase is the violent nature of the statement, “shut up.” I know, it’s tempting to use because it has more impact, but it also has an inherent bit of intimidation or anger in it, of wanting to silence whoever the person is saying it to (even if that person is oneself). Quickly, without another word.

“Shut up and train,” is not a conversation, it’s a one-sided demand that stops further thought. It has been rocketing around in my head for weeks now. Why do I take so much offense?

“Shut up and train” makes my ears squint just because of the word “shut up,” but lately the phrase has also been used to imply that talking and having emotions is not part of the dog trainer’s job. In fact, the opposite is true. Professional dog trainers are primarily educators. The caregivers do the bulk of the training.

Demonstrating is a huge part of what we do, but using words to communicate to people and learn from others is critical. If we just show them the mechanics of dog training, they miss the whole point, and we have to teach every single thing.

Or worse, dog training becomes stuck in outdated techniques, focusing on the human’s wishes without considering the dog’s nuanced needs.

As dog trainers, the function of our own behavior with dogs is what’s important – it’s not just what we do, but WHY we do it.

Building empathy, getting caregivers and other trainers to understand the function of canine behavior, to carefully observe dogs, to notice what needs a dog is trying to meet, to know enough about themselves to take their own needs into account…that’s how we make life more harmonious and safe for people AND dogs. That’s how we continue to move the industry forward.

So no, for that interpretation of the phrase, I will never “shut up and train.” And I know most of you won’t, either.

A key part of a dog trainer’s job is to speak for those who cannot.

We are educators, bridge builders, translators.

I will never stop advocating for dogs (and people) and their needs. I will keep building empathy and understanding through words.

And I’m overjoyed to see so many people doing the same. Keep listening. Keep learning. Keep your voice. Stay kind.

(Oh yes, and do log off and train! Your dogs need you.)

#ShowUpAndTrain #SpeakUpAndTrain #LogOffAndTrain

Happy Earth Day: What I Learned in 5 Days Without Sunlight

A few weeks ago, I went into darkness for 5 days. Five whole days and nights in a small hotel-like room with a comfortable bed, well ventilated, but without a speck of sunlight. It was a phenomenal experience and I thought I’d unpack a little of it for you.
It’s called a ‘hygienic darkroom retreat,’ the idea of hygiene being that if living organisms have healthy environments, we can thrive. The darkroom is an environment to let our spirit take center stage, away from the stimulation of the outer world.
I’d read about darkroom retreating 3 years ago, but didn’t know where to go to do it. Turns out, there’s one about 10 minutes from my house! My time had come.
Practically, it looked like this: before entering the dark, I made 5 days worth of meals for the super-kind and wise helpers at the lodge to reheat and bring to me. I packed snacks for the rest of the time, brought a journal, and whatever else I’d need for camping indoors, in the dark.
My fiancee, Tom, went into darkness ahead of me. He was on his Day 5 when I started. We overlapped in the room for one night as he shared what he’d discovered about himself, alone in the dark, and I shared what I’d found about myself at home.
The next two days were mostly about getting sleep. Lots of it, whenever my body wanted to rest, without any pressure to stay awake (nor pressure to sleep). When I was awake, I stayed tuned into the feeling of my body from within – belly, heart, breathing, toes, hands, energy centers (the parts of my body that feel like they have the most Life, spirit you could say).

Continue reading Happy Earth Day: What I Learned in 5 Days Without Sunlight

Getting Started: Course Overview

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

To view the rest of the lessons, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

HOW TO FIND THE COURSE INFO

You can always find the main course page for the Dog to Dog Aggression Cases with Mike Shikashio course by logging in and going to My Account.

This course is made up entirely of videos, which are live and then also available in recorded form.

The sessions will be on 7/15, 7/22, 8/5, and 8/19 at 7pm EST and will last approximately 1.5 – 2 hours. You can watch them later, as well.

A link to the most current live video will be right near the top of your course page. Below that is a list of all sessions. Click on the date for the live session (or the recording if the date has passed).

Always be sure to log into the course. If you don’t log in, the course page will show purchase information and you won’t see the videos. If you see that, just log in and refresh the page.

VIEWING TIPS:

  1. You can change the playback speed on recorded videos by clicking the settings icon (a little gear) on the lower right side of the video and selecting faster or slower. That is also how you set the video resolution (set it lower if your internet connection is slow).
  2. Headphones give you the best audio quality.
  3. Volume control and screen resizing are on the video itself and on your device. If the screen freezes during a live broadcast, refresh your browser. If the live signal ever fails, please don’t worry. A recording will be available for each week of class.
  4. Click the link in the chat (for live) or in the actual video (for recorded) at the end of each video to add it to My Video History. This is important for CEUs or just your own record.
  5. Practice changing settings on the video below, including clicking the link at the end to add it to your history. This is Video 83 in our Member Video Library at the Student level.

Just for fun, here’s another video to test your settings. It’s an interview with Dr. Claudia Fugazza. If you’re a Pro Member, you get access to lots more of these kind of interviews in the Member Video Library.

RECORDING YOUR CEUS

Please be sure to click Add to History at the end of the Review Session videos. Also be sure to include your CPDT number in your member profile. Then your CPDT CEUs will be reported automatically after the course (or if you watch it after that, then on April 1 or October 1, our biannual reporting dates).

If you need CEUs for another organization with approved CEUs, your “My History” page will work be sufficient to use as evidence for you to report to those organizations.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

MORE SUPPORT

  • SOCIAL: You’re eligible to join the ABBA Facebook group, which is the group for all students at GrishaStewart.com
  • There is a special thread for this course, or you can also post and just tag Michael Shikashio to get his attention.

We send a welcome letter to new registrants by hand, so it may arrive a few days after you sign up. Please check your spam and let us know by email if you don’t get a welcome letter.

[/s2If]

Session 4: Shikashio Dog-Dog Cases (Wed 8/19)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen. Click here to open the chat in a separate window. You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but we will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If you want to see chat and video side by side, you can open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen again, though.
  • Email me (Grisha) if you still have trouble. You can share questions for Michael that way, too.

CEUS

  • The CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Michael Shikashio Dog-Dog Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • I will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs after this course completes and then again on our reporting dates. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 3: Shikashio Dog-Dog Cases (Wed 8/5)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen. Click here to open the chat in a separate window. You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but we will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If you want to see chat and video side by side, you can open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen again, though.
  • Email me (Grisha) if you still have trouble. You can share questions for Michael that way, too.

CEUS

  • The CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Michael Shikashio Dog-Dog Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • I will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs after this course completes and then again on our reporting dates. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 2: Shikashio Dog-Dog Cases (Wed 7/22)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen. Click here to open the chat in a separate window. You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but we will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If you want to see chat and video side by side, you can open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen again, though.
  • Email me (Grisha) if you still have trouble. You can share questions for Michael that way, too.

CEUS

  • The CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Michael Shikashio Dog-Dog Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • I will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs after this course completes and then again on our reporting dates. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 1: Shikashio Dog-Dog Cases (Wed 7/15)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen. Click here to open the chat in a separate window. You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but we will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If you want to see chat and video side by side, you can open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen again, though.
  • Email me (Grisha) if you still have trouble. You can share questions for Michael that way, too.

CEUS

  • The CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Michael Shikashio Dog-Dog Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • I will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs after this course completes and then again on our reporting dates. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Live Course: Dog to Dog Aggression Cases With Michael Shikashio

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]
[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

Registration for Michael’s next live online case consultation course is now on my new site! Click here.

If you have already registered on this site, I’ll be moving over your access very soon.

[/s2If]Start Date: July 15, 2020 7pm EST
(4 pm PST, 11 pm UK, 10 am 2/21 in Melbourne).  Live sessions will be recorded for students.

The sessions will be on 7/15, 7/22, 8/5, and 8/19 at 7pm EST and will last approximately 1.5 – 2 hours. Shadow Mike as he works live with two dog aggression clients, back to back during each session date.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

About the Case Consults Series

Threat display

This is an all-new format developed for GrishaStewart.com. Michael’s case consult series we did here on dog-human aggression went spectacularly, as did Grisha’s BAT set-ups course with a shelter team. Grisha is also teaching a case consult course for adolescent puppies starting 4/8/20.

This series couldn’t come at a better time for dog trainers who need to still work during a quarantine. With people being homebound, particular one is bound to be a very popular course.

About This Course

Join aggression expert Michael Shikashio CDBC as he works with TWO different intra-household dog-dog aggression cases live and remotely.

Mike will be coaching two clients with their own dogs in Intra-household dog-dog aggression cases – that’s a fancy way of saying the dogs from the same household are fighting or otherwise showing aggression to each other. Michael will be coaching two separate households on their dog-dog issues. Most of these techniques will also apply to aggression to other dogs outside of the household, as well.

We are really looking forward to this a unique opportunity to see how Mike works online to coach dog-dog aggression cases!

You’ll get to see it all!

What YOU will be getting in this course

  • Access to the live remote sessions where Mike will be coaching the clients.
  • Streaming recordings of all consultation and coaching sessions to review any time you want.
  • An opportunity to ask questions in a chat box. Mike will reply via live video in the Q&A  at the end of the lesson.
  • CEUs (pending) for CPDT, KPA, IAABC, and CCBC.
  • Price is $85, with 20% off for ABBA Pro members. It’s a great value! $75 early bird through May 15, 2020.

Can’t make it live? We’ve got you covered! All live videos will be recorded and stay in your library to view at your own pace.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_011_ft)]

Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!!

You are enrolled in this course. 

  • I will be adding you to the roster for this course on new site very soon. Please expect an email. For now, you can see the description of the course there by clicking this link.

The case history for the two households will go here.

About the Course

Join aggression expert Michael Shikashio CDBC as he works with TWO different cases live and remotely.

Mike will be coaching two clients with their own dogs who display aggressive behavior towards people in their home. This is a unique opportunity to see how Mike works an aggression case…all done remotely!

  • Access to the live remote sessions where Mike will be coaching the clients.
  • An opportunity to ask questions in a chat box. Mike will reply via live video in the Q&A  at the end of the lesson.
  • Streaming recordings of all consultation and coaching sessions to review any time you want.
  • CEUs pending for CPDT, KPA, IAABC, and CCBC. Be sure to click at the end of each video to add it to your Video History.
  • We report for CCPDT directly, you can use the record in your Video History for other organizations. CCPDT reporting will happen when the course closes and then again April 1 and October 1.

[/s2If]


About the Instructor

Michael Shikashio, CDBC, is the past president of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC), and provides private consultations working exclusively with dog aggression cases through his business AggressiveDog.com. Michael is fully certified through the IAABC, a Fear Free Certified Trainer, and is a full member of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT).

Michael Shikashio, CDBC

He is sought after for his expert opinion by numerous media outlets, including the New York Times, New York Post, Baltimore Sun, WebMD, Women’s Health Magazine, Real Simple Magazine, SiriusXM Radio, The Chronicle of the Dog, and Steve Dale’s Pet World.

Michael is a featured speaker at conferences, universities, and seminars around the world, and offers a variety of workshops, webinars, and online courses on the topic of canine aggression, including the Aggression in Dogs Master Course.

Michael’s Feb 2020 Dog-Human Aggression Case Consults course archive is also available now.

Registration for this online case consultation course with Michael is now on my new site! Click here.

If you have already registered on this site, I’ll be moving over your access very soon.

The Gift of Corona

Did you know that the bright corona around a star is usually only seen during an eclipse, when everything else is dark?

I went to the grocery store yesterday and I could see barely contained panic in the eyes of the checkout guy. The muscles in his face stood out as he scanned my items. Touching things and trying not to touch them at the same time. I guessed that it might be related to coronavirus and said it must be hard to be around so many people for his work right now. He said yes, if it gets any worse, he’s just going to stay home.

I know this is a challenging time, and I honor the sadness and fear in all of us. I felt some bleakness start to overtake me for a moment, my thoughts spinning. Then I recognized that as my old programming, and that the tightness in my body was just my fight or flight instincts kicking in.

I remembered that this is one of those times where I don’t have a lot of control. That I can do my part, but I don’t have to fix this. It’s like that moment in a dream when I fall and know that there’s nothing to do but accept what is happening, to face it with curiosity.

I lost my husband last year and it was so painful that I can hardly describe it. And yet now there is new life in all of the cracks of my heart. I am grateful for the friendships I have and I am more honest and compassionate with myself than ever. Grief is a healer. Life is oh so different, and his death will always contribute to my world view and my ability to be here.

Things are going to get worse before they get better. Schools closed all over the US today. Other countries have shut down already.

And yet.

Can you pause right now for a moment to slowly exhale everything you’re holding in? Take another deep breath, hold it for a few seconds, and exhale that over the count of 10. And repeat one more time.

There’s an opportunity here. When all of our services close down to prevent the spread of the virus, it reminds me of how very interconnected we all are. We are not on our own in this life. We have support.

The man in the grocery store, he helps me get my food. He’s part of a long chain of beings who make it possible for me to live life the way I do. Bees, farmers, truck drivers, the woman who designs the label on my food, the man who cleans the floor, the people who built the building I shop in. My local farmer’s market, the people I barter with for cabbages in the summer.

Every single one with a heart and a life of their own. And that’s just a fraction of the people it takes to bring this all together. The people who hire me to teach them about dogs, the dogs who had trouble and needed help, the people who make the computer I type on, the people I learned from… we are all interconnected.

And this virus reminds me that we are all made of the same human bodies, that we are so similar that a virus can pass from one of us to the other.

Kindness, joy, love…let those also continue to be spread. Let the love I hold in my heart arrive into yours. May gratitude for the kind word or smile you got or gave recently brighten your day. Times like this can bring out some bad things, but they also bring out the very best in us. Let yourself be kind, and see tiny acts of kindness everywhere. We humans help each other in times of survival.

Remembering that we are mortal may be one of the best things to come of this all. I would love it if we could learn to help each other thrive, even when this is all over and cooled off.

Right now, there’s a big scare and we all feel a little more mortal. We are not making it out of this life alive.

But here’s the thing, we were always going to die.

That’s just how life works. So maybe we could help each other all the time, and remember we are all in this together. Not just in the middle of this challenge, but next year or the year after, when we have forgotten about this big scare. Let’s take kindness with us everywhere.

Being human is a terminal disease, and frankly, I think that’s a gift. Whatever I’m doing here as Grisha, it won’t last forever. We don’t have to worry about whether or not we will die. I can take that righ off of my to do list.

We will, eventually. Everyone I know, all of the dogs I will ever have, me. It’s one thing I know for sure. Remembering that I will not be here forever lets me take a deep breath, accept my mortality, and focus on seeing how many wonderful things happen to me every single day. We only have a short time here, and yet we have an abundance of individual moments.

I savor this experience, right now, and live my life with purpose. Meditation practice allows me to not take my spinning thoughts seriously. I let them go and shift back to the moment. I feel what needs to be felt in my body, and shift back to the present.

Every interaction I have, I strive to be authentic to my own spirit and also improve the lives of those around me.

Live is lived in moments. And right now, I have dogs on the couch next to me. I’m warm, my belly is full. I have an abundance of all of the things I need in life in this exact moment.

So yes, there’s a downside to coronavirus, but let’s look more at the corona part. What else might this affect for the good?

  • People have time to spend with family.
  • People may remember to value contact with one another.
  • Dogs on walks not being constantly petted by strangers, for fear of transmitting a virus. There may be a whole generation of puppies who show less reactivity because they were able to go on walks without being accosted. In Sweden, for example, people don’t pet dogs out in public and I think it’s great for them.
  • People may prioritize their mental health for a while, taking a break from the go-go-go world we have created. This is a good time to practice daily meditation (or morning/night), start getting therapy online, read wholehearted books. If you need some ideas to shift toward wholeness, I teach an online course called How to Human. It’s packed full of the tools and techniques that have been most helpful to me.
  • People spending more time outdoors, in nature.
  • People reconnecting with the ones they care about, using video chat, etc.
  • Basic patterns of life are disrupted, so it’s a good time to develop new habits and hobbies, if done mindfully.
  • It’s a good time to take a real look at what you do that feeds your soul and spirit, what helps the world be a better place.

Yes, all kinds of other things are possible. But we all get to choose for ourselves what to do right now. Do we take it as a challenge or a catastrophe? Regardless of the downside, there is always an up side.

We have, right now, a sort of permission slip to do something outside of the ordinary. Expectations of everyday life have shifted for a little while, as the world goes into hibernation.

The darkness is the best time to see what is light inside ourselves.

It is all going to be okay. Things always work out, one way or other. Life is more than okay. It’s actually pretty amazing.

What opportunities for wholehearted living and kindness are opening up right now?
What healthy and joyful things have you been resisting?

What are you doing with the gift of corona?

Also I’ll leave you with this video. If you watch only one thing on the Internet this week, let it be this.

(photo credit at top: image by Wikipedia)

Session 3 Chat Transcript

Click here for the video.
Note that if it doesn’t say who typed, then that’s Grisha.

******

Theresa
: Hi Mike. Leaving a question here again since my timezone doesn’t allow me to join live. If you were doing these sessions outdoor, and the dog doesn’t seem to notice the trigger and as soon as you shorten the distance a little, it sends the dog over threshold.

Theresa: 
How would you adjust the set up so that the dog notices the trigger but not to send them over threshold? Would choosing a slightly less boring outdoor location help so that the dog notices the trigger as soon as it enters the picture?

Kevin: How do you ask clients to track and measure training progress between sessions? Do request video, written logs,…?

Jody: do you think his occasionaly helicopter tail is more about Bella? Or that he got closer to Phil for a moment there (just before he did a little lunge and woof

Kevin: Looks like he is taking treats pretty hard
Or maybe I am being fooled by the treat pinch

Jill Wattles: 
His body language is so good rn!

Jody: I love the preciseness in giving distance limits.

Jody: And I love that Mike S is keeping Luke below, not at/pushing threshold and Luke is clearly making progress without ever pushing threshold.

Kevin: Do you find that even with positively desensitized muzzle training that the muzzle does make a difference? I ask because I am often told that it shouldn’t yet in my experience the dog’s behavior always changes when a muzzle is in place.

Janet Graham: Much closer. Her tail is still tucked?

Amelia: Mia’s body language does not seem comfortable (tucked tail, ears flicking back occasionally, lip licks) would you have recommended that they not move forward with Lucas standing / moving around the room until the happy body language comes back?

Grisha: I imagine with dogs who are more likely to lunge, you talk more about leash-holding?

Lindsay Walsh:
 Is there a benefit to feeding from the hand instead of tossing the treat onto the floor? I usually toss to the floor to add in a little sniffing/calming, but I’d be interested in your perspective on this one because I could be doing this all wrong.

Karen Hannam: Would it be wrong to praise her during her break from the interaction?

Elizabeth Pitts: Doing well! But what about the tucked tail?
Is that showing submission?

Kevin: I wonder what would happen if andrew was less of a statue.

Elizabeth Pitts: Kevin – I think that would be an added distraction to be worked into later?

Kevin: Elizabeth, possibly. I have also found that some dogs do not like it when a target is stiff. I will have to review the video to see truly how stiff Andrew was being and watch her reaction hen he does move.

Carrie: Is there a reason why Jill is using a verbal marker rather than a whistle? I’m assuming she’s very fluid with a whistle.

Karen Hannam: Where Mia is reliably looking to her right after looking at him, would it be better to wait for her to show more positive body language signals before moving closer and/or increasing the difficulty of the stimulus? I assume we are moving quicker for the purpose of this seminar?

Janet Graham: Andrew isn’t waiting for Mia to look at him before he tosses?

Eileen Fletcher: Her tail is uncurled in this part of the house, perhaps it being more open (more escape routes) is relaxing her? Or is it him sitting that is less threatening?

Karen Hannam: Would you recommend desensitize Mia to the sound of the door outside of these sessions?

Jody: Have either of you ever come across a dog with an ear fetish? Every dog she meets, she shoves her nose deep into the other dog’s ear to the point of almost harassing the dog? no known infection in any of the dogs, but after initial face-to-face, and genital sniffing…
This dog becomes obsessed with sniffing the other dog’s ear. thoughts? 🙂

Kevin: What about the consistency in tone and volume with the verbal marker?

Eileen Fletcher: You noted in the first consultations that both dogs had some pain/arthritic/ortho issues and had been/were on pain relief – was this explored further with a vet?

Wendy Dahl: I’m curious how eventual integration with other resident dogs will happen. Specifically, how to keep Mia’s excitement level low when other dogs are barking.

Karen Hannam: Why did Luke wear a muzzle but Mia did not?

Session 4: Tween Puppy (Wed 4/29)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen. You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but everyone else will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If don’t see chat and video side by side, you can click above the video open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen, though.
  • Email us if you still have trouble. You can share questions that way, too, although they are better shared in chat.

CEUS

  • CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Tween Puppy Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Grisha or Dani will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number. You actually do not need a Pro membership to get CEUs for this course, though.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if your CPDT number is in the system before the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For non-CPDT, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 3: Tween Puppy (Wed 4/22)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen. You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but everyone else will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If don’t see chat and video side by side, you can click above the video open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen, though.
  • Email us if you still have trouble. You can share questions that way, too, although they are better shared in chat.

CEUS

  • CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Tween Puppy Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Grisha or Dani will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number. You actually do not need a Pro membership to get CEUs for this course, though.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if your CPDT number is in the system before the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For non-CPDT, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 2: Tween Puppy (Wed 4/15)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen.  You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but everyone else will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If don’t see chat and video side by side, you can click above the video open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen, though.
  • Email us if you still have trouble. You can share questions that way, too, although they are better shared in chat.

CEUS

  • CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Tween Puppy Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Grisha or Dani will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number. You actually do not need a Pro membership to get CEUs for this course, though.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if your CPDT number is in the system before the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For non-CPDT, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 1: Tween Puppy (Wed 4/8)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is below the video unless you have a wide screen. Click here to open the chat in a separate window. You can post in the chat box at any time, so please test it now. 🙂
Troubleshooting tips are below the chat.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • To comment, join as a guest or use your Facebook or Vimeo credentials. You won’t see your name when you make comments, but everyone else will.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser. When in doubt, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video player above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser. Chrome works very well.
  • If don’t see chat and video side by side, you can click above the video open chat in a separate window.
  • If for some crazy reason we end up needing a password for the chat or video, it is DOGS (all caps). That should not happen, though.
  • Email us if you still have trouble. You can share questions that way, too, although they are better shared in chat.

CEUS

  • CEUs are reported for the whole course, so the entire series of Tween Puppy Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Grisha or Dani will share a link via chat at the end to add the video to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number. You actually do not need a Pro membership to get CEUs for this course, though.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if your CPDT number is in the system before the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For non-CPDT, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Live Course: Tween Puppy Class Sessions with Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]
[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

This course has moved to my NEW SITE. Please click here to register there.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

This course has moved to my NEW SITE.  click here to view it there.

I have created a login over there, but your passwords will all need to be reset. Please look for an email from me with details.

[/s2If]

Start Date: April 8, 2020 5:30pm Pacific
(8:30 pm EST).  Live sessions will be recorded for students.

About the Case Consults Series

If you already have a user name, please log in before registering!  Border Collie image from Wikipedia.

This is an all-new format developed for GrishaStewart.com. Michael’s case consult series we did here on dog-human aggression went spectacularly, as did my BAT set-ups course with a shelter team. Michael is also teaching a case consult course for fighting in the home starting 7/15/20.

This series couldn’t come at a better time for dog trainers who need to still work during a quarantine. With people being homebound, particular one is bound to be a very popular course.

About this Course

Why do shelters get so many adolescent dogs? It’s a tough age! Not so cute as puppies, but lacking the brains and training of an adult, among other things.

Check out my new live  online course, where I’ll be running a small group class for adolescent dogs.

You’ll get a free ebook of my Ahimsa Dog Training manual, so you have information you can start soaking up right away!

The sessions will be on 4/8, 4/15, 4/22, and 4/29 at 5:30 pm Pacific and will last approximately an hour with additional time for questions at the end. Plan for it to last up to 2 hours. In this course, you basically shadow my live, remote adolescent puppy class. The dogs who have had a variety of training backgrounds, but no training is assumed. [s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

Chief is an active young border collie.

The training will be adapted to the individual students, and will be a combination of clicker training, BAT, operant counterconditioning, and anything else that seems useful for these dog and handler teams.

I can’t plan this too much advance, because puppies are always changing as they develop. But the general structure is to work on focus and relaxation.

Who are the puppies?

One team I will likely be working with is two teenagers – a border collie “tween” on the verge of adolescence and my awesome teenage nephew who got the puppy from his family for Christmas.

Chief will be about 6 months old at the start of the class and has not had a lot of training or socialization experiences. His dog experience is limited, but he does interact with the 2-year-old Dachshund who also lives in the home.

I also have two other teenage puppies lined up and am looking for some backup options. If you are interested, please contact me.

This is a unique opportunity to see how I coach adolescent puppy training and socialization. Every dog is unique, but you’ll get to see what I do in these cases. It’s all done remotely and you’ll get to see it live!

Can’t make it live? We’ve got you covered! All live videos will be recorded and stay in your library to view at your own pace.

What YOU will be getting in this course

  • Access to the live remote sessions where I will be coaching the puppies’ caregivers.
  • An opportunity to ask questions in a chat box. I will reply via live video in the Q&A  at the end of the lesson.
  • Streaming recordings of all consultation and coaching sessions to review any time you want.
  • Access to the eBook version of my book on basic training for puppies and dogs: “The Official Ahimsa Dog Training Manual: A Practical, Force-Free Guide to Problem Solving & Manners.”
  • 8 approved CEUs for CPDT, KPA, IAABC (pending). Be sure to click at the end of each video to add it to your Video History.
  • We report to CCPDT directly, you can use the record in your Video History for other organizations. CCPDT reporting will happen when the course closes and then again April 1 and October 1.

Course Info:

  • Cost is $99. This course is included with Diamond memberships on my new site. Click here for info.
  • ABBA Pro members get an additional 20% off. It’s a great value!
  • Each video session is about 1.5-2 hours long (including question time).
  • If you really want to learn about puppy training in-depth, I highly recommend that you also take my on-demand course Empowered Puppy Raising. It is not required, but will increase your understanding of the course content, especially if you do it first.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!!

You are enrolled in this course. Thanks!

Please access the course on my new site HERE. Please look for an email with details. You’ll need to reset your password on the new site.

About this Course

Join me for four live, remote puppy training consults.

I can’t plan this in advance, because puppies are always changing as they develop. The training will likely be a combination of clicker training, BAT, operant counterconditioning, and anything else that seems useful for this individual dog and handler team.

Who are the puppies?

One team I will likely be working with is two teenagers – a border collie “tween” on the verge of adolescence and my awesome teenage nephew who got the puppy from his family for Christmas.

Chief will be about 6 months old at the start of the class and has not had a lot of training or socialization experiences. His dog experience is limited, but he does interact with the 2-year-old Dachshund who also lives in the home.

I also have two other teenage puppies lined up and am looking for some backup options. If you are interested, please contact me.

This is a unique opportunity to see how I coach adolescent puppy training and socialization. Every dog is unique, but you’ll get to see what I do in these cases. It’s all done remotely and you’ll get to see it live!

  • Access to the live remote sessions where I will be coaching the puppies’ caregivers.
  • An opportunity to ask questions in a chat box. I will reply via live video in the Q&A  at the end of the lesson.
  • Streaming recordings of all consultation and coaching sessions to review any time you want.
  • 8 approved CEUs for CPDT, KPA, IAABC (pending). Be sure to click at the end of each video to add it to your Video History.
  • We report to CCPDT directly, you can use the record in your Video History for other organizations. CCPDT reporting will happen when the course closes and then again April 1 and October 1.
  • Each session is about 1.5-2 hours long, including about half an hour for questions.
  • If you really want to learn about puppy training in-depth, I highly recommend that you also take my on-demand course Empowered Puppy Raising. It is not required, but will increase your understanding of the course content.

[/s2If]


About the Instructor: Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP.

Hi, I’m Grisha!

Grisha Stewart. Photo by Riley Walters.

I’m an author, international speaker, and dog trainer based in Oregon, USA. I specialize in finding ways for dogs and humans to get their needs met in life together. My focus is on the prevention and rehabilitation of reactivity in dogs.

I founded Empowered Animals and the online Animal Building Blocks Academy, as well as Ahimsa Dog Training in Seattle, which I sold to a staff member in 2015. My Ahimsa trainers earned many awards, including Best of Seattle and Best of Western Washington.

“Ahimsa” is a Buddhist doctrine of nonviolence to all living things, which reflects my focus on force-free methods to promote the well-being of dogs and their humans.

My “Ahimsa Dog Training Manual” is a guide for puppies and adult dogs and it’s included in this course. It has 4 1/2 stars on Amazon and is available in eBook and paperback form through this site.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]


[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have taken a class with us before, log in first, otherwise you’ll get an error when the site tries to make a new account with your user name.

This course is moving to my NEW SITE. Please click here to register there.

[/s2If]

Getting Started: Course Overview

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

To view the rest of the lessons, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

HOW TO FIND THE COURSE INFO

You can always find the main Tween Puppy Sessions course page by logging in and going to My Account.

This course is made up entirely of videos, which are live and then also available in recorded form.

The main course lessons are done by live video on Wednesdays at 5:30 pm Pacific/8:30 Eastern for about an hour. You can watch them later, as well.

A link to the most current live video will be right near the top of your course page. Below that is a list of all sessions. Click on the date for the live session (or the recording if the date has passed).

Always be sure to log into the course. If you don’t log in, the course page will show purchase information and you won’t see the videos. If you see that, just log in and refresh the page.

VIEWING TIPS:

  1. You can change the playback speed on recorded videos by clicking the settings icon (a little gear) on the lower right side of the video and selecting faster or slower. That is also how you set the video resolution (set it lower if your internet connection is slow).
  2. Headphones give you the best audio quality.
  3. Volume control and screen resizing are on the video itself and on your device. If the screen freezes during a live broadcast, refresh your browser. If the live signal ever fails, please don’t worry. A recording will be available for each week of class.
  4. Click the link at the end of each video to add it to My Video History. This is important for CEUs or just your own record.
  5. Practice changing settings on the video below, including clicking the link at the end to add it to your history. This is Video 83 in our Member Video Library at the Student level.

Just for fun, here’s another video to test your settings. It’s an interview with Dr. Claudia Fugazza. If you’re a Pro Member, you get access to lots more of these kind of interviews in the Member Video Library.

RECORDING YOUR CPDT CEUS

If you need CEUS, please be sure to click Add to My History at the end of the Review Session videos. Also be sure to include your CPDT number in your member profile if you want those CEUs to be reported.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_010_tn)]

SOCIAL SUPPORT

  • Consider joining the ABBA Facebook group. That is the group for my entire online school, including ABBA members. Membership is annual and Pro ABBA members can earn CPDT CEUs by watching members-only videos.’
  • The ShelterBAT Facebook group, which is not specific to this course, was created to discuss how to use BAT at shelters. It’s a great place to ask questions about your shelter or post videos.

Expect to get a welcome letter by email about a week before the course. These are sent manually. Please check your spam and let me know by email if you didn’t get a welcome letter.

[/s2If]

Intro to BAT Registration w/code

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_001_bat2)]You are registered for this course.

>>Please click here to see the course info.<<

[/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_001_bat2)] [_s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you are already a member or have made a purchase at ABBA before, please first log in with the user info you created (or the form below will try to make you a new account and have an error).

If you have already registered, please log in and go to My Account.

The full price is $39. If you have a redemption code, please enter it below.[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”1″ ccaps=”webinar_001_bat2″ desc=”Intro to BAT Webinar Feb 2020″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ta=”0″ tp=”0″ tt=”D” ra=”39″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” rrt=”” rra=”2″ accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”1″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][_s2If is_user_logged_in()]The full price is $39. If you have a redemption code, please enter it below.[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”webinar_001_bat2″ desc=”Intro to BAT Webinar Feb 2020″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”39″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”1″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]

Bulk Registration: 15 Prepaid Codes for the BAT Practice Class

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level3)]Thanks for being here, but this page is only for Pro members. Please log into your account and refresh this page to access it. If you don’t have a Pro account, you can learn about memberships  here.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level3)][_s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh_bulk)]As a Pro member of ABBA, you’re eligible to buy bulk registration codes for the BAT Practice class!

Instead of the regular price of $85 each, you register five people for just $60 per person. Click here to register only 3. You can buy one gift code for $85 here. If you have more than 5 people to register or are interested in bulk codes for a different course, please contact us.

After you complete your purchase, you’ll see a list of codes that you can share with whoever you want to register for the class. It’s a pre-paid code, so they won’t need to enter any payment information.

If you haven’t yet registered for the course with the account you’re logged in as, then you will be able to use one of the codes to register also.

[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”introbatweb_bulk” desc=”15 Registration Codes for ShelterBAT course – $300 – nonrefundable” ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”300″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]
[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_introbatweb_bulk)]Here are your codes! Please copy/paste the code and link to the special registration page for each person.

Codes can only be used once, so give each person a different code. The purchaser (you) can also use one of these code to register for the course on this account, if you haven’t already done so. If you need to buy more codes, please contact us.
[s2Member-Gift-Codes discount=”100%” quantity=”15″ directive=”ra-only” singulars=”25849″ one_click=”introbat-code”/][/s2If]

Session 2 Chat Transcript

Click here for the video.
Note that if it doesn’t say who typed, then that’s Grisha.

******

From a student: Do you think you can ask him to talk a little bit about threshold, how important it is to monitor that and why that’s so important.
6:58 AM
Joe Grant
Joe Grant
Would you consider doing more sessions if the clients weren’t already experienced or if they hadn’t got the dogs so far along on their own in the first place?
9:14 AM
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
Great question about threshold! There are a variety of definitions for “threshold” when scouring the literature, however, for purposes of this discussion, we can define it as “the distance from and intensity of the stimulus at which point the dog displays a certain behaviors.”
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
We would typically determine what those behaviors are for that dog through previous descriptions, or video when safe to do so. For example Dog A’s threshold behavior might be tongue flicks, hard staring, barking, lunging on leash. Dog B’s behaviors might be growling, weight shift
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
forward, and mouth held tensely shut.
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
The risks involved when dogs “go over threshold” is that they may practice the undesirable behaviors (potential reinforcement by gaining distance from the stimulus); the dog may experience stress, anxiety, fear, or frustration.
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
Hi Joe! Yes, more sessions may be necessary for clients who are not as far along in training than Jill and Stacy. Though, each case is unique dependent on a number of variables including the severity of the case; range of antecedents; health issues that may need to be addressed;
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
client’s ability to train; client’s time and financial resources; the effectiveness of the behavior change plan; client’s ability to manage; how much we can modify and control the environment; and size/breed/age/sex of dog.
7:26 PM
Thanks Mike! That definition of threshold is very specific and measurable. That’s really useful!
8:03 PM
TY
Hi Mike. Could you share with us a list of common medication that could cause increase in anxiety or aggression?
8:27 AM
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
Hi TY! Thanks for your question. I will preface my this with the fact that I am not a vet, so it is always best to consult with a veterinarian or Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist if there is a concern about a particular medication. Ok! The more common meds I see:
8:32 AM
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
Prednisone (or other steroid class drugs or corticosteroids), PPA or phenylproponolamine, NSAIDs, Apoquel, Phenobarbital, and Tramadol. It is also important to be aware of the potential disinhibiting effect of some meds that are used for behavior issues such as benzodiazepines.
3:42 PM
jemw
checking before the session starts 🙂
Hi Jemma!
jemw
ello
3:49 PM
do you see a video?
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Hello!
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
I can’t see any video
jemw
no, grey screen saying scheduled for midnight
Susan
no video yet
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
Hi Everyone Checking chat
Caryl-Rose
Got audio but no videoyet.
I’m getting audio and video onmine
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
No audio or video for me, it just tells me the event will start in 9 minutes
Can you hit play? Or refresh your page?
Caryl-Rose
Seeing a play list on mine.
perfect
jemw
up now, did the refresh and relog in to chat
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
have audio but video is showing frozen list of songs
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
I hear background music and Michael talking with someone off screen.
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
And now Grisha!
Susan
yes
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Yes.
jemw
yaaay
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
yes
Susan
yes again
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Refreshed page, can see video, no audio for me though 🙁
jemw
kettle time before we start lol
Sheila H Ferguson
sounds and looks good
yay thanks Sheila
Harriet Zucker
Harriet Zucker
harriet. it worked!
yay
jemw
is it unmuted marissa? mine was automatically on mute when i logged in
Jayne Fine
Jayne Fine
@Marisa- there is a button on the upper right and one on the lower left that control the audio, check to see if those are muted
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Refreshed again and can now see and hear everything
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Is the audio cutting in and out for anyone else?
that’s me doing that
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Ok cool 🙂
should be working now
Caryl-Rose
yes!
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
not for me 🙁 I will try refreshing again
Janet Graham
I can’t hear anything
can you hear now?
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Hi Grisha and Mike
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
sounding good this end
Mute is on the video itself and on the lower right is volume
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
Hi everyone!
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Hey heyt
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
hey.
Marra
It is all working for me. Good morning (from Oz)
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
I thought Mike was doing the box breathing. ;>
Janet Graham
It’s working!
LOL
yay Janet
LOL was for the box breathing, not the vet issues
Making sure comments are still working?
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
yes
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
they are working
“_
🙂
Emily Gestrin
Ugh, if only my client videos were THIS amazing!
Nancy
Are we supposed to be hearing audio on the session video? (I’m not hearing clicks)
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
IF he delays in looking back would that be considered close to “threshold?”
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
cant hear sounds of video
Nancy
🙂
jemw
ah thats better
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Yes…can hear clicks now.
🙂
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
is he nervous of Mike holding camera? or just really interested in why Mike is down low?
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Great camera angles.
Mike is his dad
Shannon Sullivan
how do I get sound? I don’t see a mute/unmute in the player
It’s in the upper right of the video box
Shannon Sullivan
i don’t have anything in the upper right of the video box
you may have to mouse over to see it?
jemw
just a question for later but what brand of harness is that?
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
looks like a Balance Harness.
Shannon Sullivan
even when i mouse over
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
No, I saw it. I was wondering if all the orienting with the camera Mike (husband) is holding was causing him to be nervous of camera or wanted to check in with husband
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
no I’m wrong about the harness.
Looks like a freedom harness.
Shannon Sullivan
i think it’s a freedom harness
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
its a freedom harness
jemw
thankyou, don’t think they are so easy to get here
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
She has great leash handling skills.
Balance Harness is better anyway
or Perfect Fit
jemw
i just find perfect fit stretch a lot if you use the front clip
Nienke
Nienke
Good morning from the other side of the globe. 🙂
Hi Nienke
Questions for mike?
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Wondering if a squeeze tube with cream cheese might be a quicker treat tool?
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
Are there multiple cameras setup?
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Do you think Luke may have gone over to daddy mike for relief / or any soothing? or just Hi there
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
It’s great that he is already acclimated to a muzzle. If you were working with an average pet person and the dog was not yet acclimated to muzzle, how would that have impacted the starting point with training?
Julie
Are you saying that rubbing his muzzle on the couch was a stress/displacement signal?
Wendy Lien
Wendy Lien
is it important to go all the way back before moving forward again?
jemw
thankyou
Karolin Klinck
Karolin Klinck
So before you decrease distance to the sitting visitor you will work on more intensity, correct?
He mentioned the Haqihana, it’s great
jemw
do you mean the blue 9 balance or the t touchbalance
technically both were designed by TTouch folks 🙂
jemw
ooh
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Noticed the leash would get tight, then click, multiple times. Would clicking sooner help keep the lead loose?
Janet Graham
Do you care if the harness is front or back attaching?
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
The Haqihana harness does not have a front clip, but the front D-Ring is very sturdy and what I use for LLW with my pups
yes I agree
jemw
that’s good to know thankyou
jemw
whats the timer for sorry?
Shannon Sullivan
Shannon Sullivan
2 questions: how are you deciding how long to make the trials? and is there any reason for her to make an effort to keep luke by her side?
so they don’t go back exactly every 30 seconds
jemw
ah i see
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
There was some nice tail wags while looking at neighbor Mike
Nancy
Where is Instructor Mike’s voice coming from? (One of the phones?)
yes
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Much softer lead this go round
Shannon Sullivan
Shannon Sullivan
and not to stare at him 🙂
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Do you recommend not baiting hand, since Luke is more interested in watching her?
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Maybe have Neighbor Mike stand sideways
jemw
this has more camera angles than some films, it’s a great setup!
yes!
Penny Bolton
Penny Bolton
I am experiencing a repeat of the previous 5 minutes or so….?
jemw
has it logged you out? that happened to me last week, i just logged in again
Try refreshing.
🙂 thanks Jem
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
oh i loved that just now
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Do you want to encourge Neighbor Mike to look away and some calming signals?
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Nice Modeling Luke
Emily Gestrin
Instructor Mike: When you are coaching pet owners in real time, have you ever experienced the potential issue where you are instructing the client on exactly WHEN to click, but then there is a 1-2 second delay in when they actually hear you via the live stream?
Jayne Fine
Jayne Fine
good question Emily!
I wonder about molding the muzzle shape a little? Mike has a great youtube video about that
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
I’m curious as to what this software is?
Would that be a good opportunity to follow him away?
Emily Gestrin
Jayne: This has happened to me in the past when I’ve done remote sessions and I don’t know how to address it
Shannon Sullivan
Shannon Sullivan
It appears to be vimeo
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
thank you Shannon. I’m only familiar with zoom
I’ve put together several pieces for this. 🙂
jemw
did you say last week this is along the lines of CAT
Nancy
Oooooh, this is like playing “telephone”. From Instructor Mike to Stacy to Daddy Mike to Neighbour Mike!
haha yes
The Mike session
Caryl-Rose
Would the dog benefit from the muzzle being removed during an upcoming break? Seem to be getting a bit more muzzle rubbing.
Nancy
Mike Session! Excellent.
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Great timing of the click.
jemw
he’s a gorgeous dog
Emily Gestrin
Great session! Someone needs to call Pizza Mike. Errrbody gets pizza!
Jacqueline Moreno
totally handsome Luke
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Dad as a naturally occurring reinforcer?
Amanda Haydon
Wow, Stacy is doing wonderful! So exciting!
jemw
thankyou
Wendy Lien
Wendy Lien
could you summarize flow? Not sure I understand when the handler should guide dog and when the dog should drive the movement
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
hahah so true on the harness trivia
Carrie M
This is a huge space to work in with lots of room to advance and retreat. How do you deal with a much smaller indoor working space?
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Would you work neighbor Mike say at the door during the daytime first?
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
to play with the intensity?
Harriet Zucker
Harriet Zucker
what is wit his eyes? I might have missed something
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Harriet =- at the beginning of the video.
Get ready Jill 🙂
Harriet Zucker
Harriet Zucker
i meant going on with is eyes. I missed it at work. designer walked in (thought everyone left o
jemw
if luke had had a reaction to mike, would you have just removed him from the situation or would there have still been a click?
At the beginning they talked about the vet visit for his eyes
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Great Job Stacy, Mike, and Luke
Antonia Goodfellow
Antonia Goodfellow
I noticed in the last session Stacy was moving her own body a bit and I was wondering how much it might be prompting movement from Luke to notice neighbour Mike. I was wondering what difference (if any) it might have made to wait Luke out until Luke chose to look at neighbourMike
Penny Bolton
Penny Bolton
Love to see how hard everyone is working on this. Thanks for sharing!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Brave Stacy!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Sometimes when chicken is a valuable “treat” for the owner (hassle to make, expensive, etc) then the owner will direct the dog to make sure they eat the chicken, kind of forgetting about the behavior happening.
Marie Selarque
Marie Selarque
where is Jill?
Handling the dog
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
I hope my chicken as treats comment didn’t read like don’t use chicken lol just observations and curious if you guys ever notice that? For later discussion
5:07 PM
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Jill? are you marking for engaging and also disengaging?
I’d like to see a video of her training Mia when she isn’t expecting a trigger, to see how training itself impacts tail height.
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
yes. I agree Grisha
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Would it support Mia’s comfort to allow for more movement similar to Luke and Stacy’s walking and using a longer leash?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
yes, yes!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Loved what Mike just said
Dani Office
Dani Office
: )
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
I’m wondering if Jill’s body language is signalling her that scary stuff may start?
Could Lucas could also maybe be turned sideways and not face on
?
🙂 Hi Dani
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Might standing at and facing the sink look more normal?
Jayne Fine
Jayne Fine
is it typical to use multiple camera angles when you’re doing remote consults?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
mute her computer?
Nancy
Can he position the phone horizontally?
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
a little tail wag!
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Jill’s body looks a little more relaxed in video with son and husband.
yes this live one is more relaxed than the recorded one from this week
Shannon Sullivan
Shannon Sullivan
again would like to know how you’re deciding how long to make the sessions and breaks
Penny Bolton
Penny Bolton
repeating last 5 minutes again?
Thanks for the questions everyone, and thanks for being patient with the fact that Michael can’t answer them during the training.
jemw
that’s quite a noise distraction
Lindsay Walsh
Mia’s tail tucked when Stan walked behind her to stand near the gate
Penny try refreshing
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
that tail…
Sorry that train was here in my studio
jemw
aah
Dani Office
Dani Office
I was wondering
jemw
thought mia was doing well haha
LOL
Caryl-Rose
Does it help reduce stress for the dog if the treat is delivered in a way that encourages the dog to take at least a step or two (not closer to the trigger) but either parallel or away? Or tossed on the ground for a moment of sniff and find?
I thought my mic was off, sorry
I love that it’s obvious when a CBATI asks a question. Space/time/movement/empowerment 🙂
Michael is doing such a good job coaching. So smooth
jemw
tails gone
jemw
wow that tail really talks
He gives really clear specific directions.
Caryl-Rose
Food by left foot…take one step back. LOVE how clear and explicit!!
Exactly
Amanda Haydon
NICE! Great sessions tonight, I love how the family
Amanda Haydon
Is involved
The deep end of the pool is probably the easy end for the animal when you’re working with marine mammals? lol
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Ha…Grisha. ;>
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
LOL Grisha
🙂 Just thinking that metaphor is funny with her being a dolphin trainer
jemw
are we able to message michael or is it better to contact him via his buisness page?
open it in a new window
I’ll ask
You mean Facebook?
jemw
yes
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
What if there was a bell on the door that cued her to go to spot with a treat and train dispenser if Jill isn’t available? Is that crazy idea?
jody
thank you, Grisha, for the link. And for hosting a great session.
The BAT Practice course that just finished is now on demand. http://grishastewart.com/shelterbat
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
different door for the son?
And there is an intro to BAT webinar at http://grishastewart.com/webinar-bat-intro/
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
That BAT course was fantastic as is this one!
Good question Ellen
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
Such a cool format.
Thanks Shelly!
jemw
it really is
I love it!
jemw
although i’ll be very sleepy tomorrow haha
Uses my geek skills
Thanks for staying up late in the UK
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
It is such a needed service for those of us who are a bit isolated and wanted to expand our learning.
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
wanting
Caryl-Rose
Or have a Manners Minder for son to trigger from door when mom isn’t there??
Yes! I love that thing.
Caryl-Rose
That was a spin off from Ellen’s idea, but use the manual Treat and Train button as his “doorbell” ?
jemw
i really want to get to one of michaels seminars but can’t quite make it to the us haha
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
does she take a lot of cues from any of the other dogs? Meaning is she more comfortable with one of them around?
Camille Asmer
Camille Asmer
I’d love to see the manners minder at work
I had the mail carrier do that. It’s very helpful.
Dani Office
Dani Office
what is that?
Caryl-Rose
I had a person who brought her dog to work every day door that as a ‘doorbell’ for her office door. Worked!
Awesome!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Thanks, Jill!
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Big thanks to Grisha, Mike, Team Luke & Team Mia.
Thanks Wendy! And thanks for the watching and the questions!
jemw
what’s the reason for the rear clip preference? is it just to have less influence on movement/restriction?
I love the insight on the crumbly treats
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Do you ever work with relaxation exercises outside of trigger distance, however in view of trigger?
Totally true about dog trainers sometimes being stiff decoys
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
OMG so true
jemw
does it take practice to do remote consults and not give away too much in your expressions lol
LOL
Yes
jemw
ah thankyou for clearing that up (the CAT/DRI)
Remember our next meeting is March 12, not next week.
Angie Gilling
Angie Gilling
What about if someone didn’t have much space in their house?
jemw
witching hour lol
I think he already answered that?
We are almost out of time so I’m going to pause the questions now. 🙂
jemw
thankyou
jemw
maybe on your course hahah
The chat box will still work but I want to make sure he gets to all of them that have been asked already
Deb Manheim
Ha Ha I was going to mention how spotless the house was!
jemw
i think i’d have to nuke a room just to have a space clean enough to run a video consult haha
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Engagement – yes, thanks for clarifying.
haha jem
Julie
How important is what direction handler faces? Stacy was facing dog a lot and her dog tended to stare back. Could she have turned and looked at the visitor to encourage checking him out? I’ve also heard “don’t face the trigger to let the dog know – I’m not concerned about that”
jemw
so many really useful little bits of info
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
I have 4 dogs, but I have a weekly cleaning crew, which is why my house doesn’t look like I have dogs
jemw
awesome thankyou
Jacqueline Moreno
incentive program for college kids?
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
My dogs do TTouch outside of trigger distance
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
My pups will ignore triggers if on mat
Eyes on the dog!
Emily Gestrin
Thank you for the session!
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Thanks everyone! Loved watching the dogs and handlers work!
jemw
that was awesome
Janet Graham
Thanks!
Marra
Great session, thank you 🙂
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Great Job Jill and Mia
Camille Asmer
Camille Asmer
thank you!!
Brian Munro
Brian Munro
Thank you!! 🙂
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Thank you Mike, Grisha, Stacy, and JIll!!
Nienke
Nienke
Thank you! 🙂

Session 1 Chat Transcript

Click here for the video.
Note that if it doesn’t say who typed, then that’s Grisha.

******

Mike
Hello
Mike
Hi
Hi Mike!
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
Hi again!
8:27 AM
TY
Hi all! Due to my time zone, I’m not likely to be able to join live. Could I post questions at the next video chat before it starts?
2:43 PM
You can post them now before this one starts or you can do the next ones as well.
2:59 PM
jemw
just testing
3:19 PM
It’s working Jem
jemw
thanks
jemw
will this coursewill there be a follow on course at a later date? i’d love some dog to dog cases
Hoping so! We are planning on doing this again, probably in the fall. I would also be interested in knowing who else you want to see in this format. I have several in the works, not just for aggression.
jemw
oo i’ll keep my eyes peeled
Emily
Hi! Testing to be sure this goes through! Thanks for putting this together!
3:40 PM
hi folks all set on the video and sound?
jemw
how do we test the sound
jemw
i can see the video page
Elly Price
Yes I can see and hear from Michigan,USA
jemw
working now, just had to log in again, think t timed out as i logged in so early lol
Marie Selarque
Marie Selarque
Hello!
Elly Price
Hello from Michigan, metro Detroit
jemw
ello from the uk
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
testing! Home on time! Hello from Las Vegas
Hi folks you should hear music…is that happening?
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
no
jemw
recognise that from clicker expo
Elly Price
Yes
Iain
Hey from the UK, sound all good this end:D
Nienke
Nienke
Good morning. Yup. Cheerful music to wake up to here. 🙂
there is a sound button on the video
also a little volume thing in the bottom right.
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
good day from NZ
And your computer volume
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Let me go into the other screen
Hiya Kirtan
Elly Price
which the chat section was to the side of the video screen not at the bottom.
you can do it as a separate window. There’s a link at the top of the video.
Elly Price
(Y)
If you every lose audio or anything freezes, just refresh your page
Elly Price
Perfect! got it now. 🙂
Anna Bannana
Anna Bannana
Hi from Bend Oregon. Like the music 🙂
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
You sound great Grisha!
Michael Curran
Was having difficulty logging into chat, got in via guest
Camille Asmer
Camille Asmer
hi from Charlotte, NC 🙂
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Hello from California!
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
Hello from Nova Scotia, Canada!
jemw
michael please come do workshops in the UK again
Michael Shikashio
Michael Shikashio
Hi everyone! Great to see so many familiar peeps!
Jacqueline Moreno
Jacqueline Moreno
Hi from Alabama!
Annet
Hello from the Netherlands 🙂
Michael Curran
I was lucky, evening session called in sick. Will prob need to watch future sessions via recording
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Yes, can hear
Sheila Ferguson
Hi all! Sheila Ferguson
jemw
yup all good
Jacqueline Moreno
Jacqueline Moreno
Yes, can hear
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
All good here!
Annet
all good
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
Loud and clear 😀
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
All good here! 🙂
Anna Bannana
Anna Bannana
yes
Marie Selarque
Marie Selarque
Yes I can hear you! Marie
Elly Price
Yes
Amanda Jenkins
All good
Linda Kwoun
Linda Kwoun
i can hear you
Janet Graham
I’m here!
Susan
yes
Janet Graham
I can hear them
Jayne Fine
Jayne Fine
perfect audio!
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
I can hear everyone
Linda Kwoun
Linda Kwoun
can hear everyone
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
Sounds good here too
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Hello!! Grisha: Radar says Hi! Mike:Piper is still watching you!
Hi melanie!
Hi Everybody, this is so much fun!
David Sternberg
HELP! I can’t see the video. Says “Sorry Because of its settings, this video cannot be played here.
Uh oh what country are you in?
Can you try from another device?
David Sternberg
US, San Francisco
David Sternberg
I hear Michael, no video
hmmm that makes no sense
try refreshing the page
Camille Asmer
Camille Asmer
I’m not able to watch but I think the problem is on my end
Michael Curran
Maybe different browser?
And this will all be recorded
There are some settings you can change with resolution, I imagine that’s not it, but try the little gear icon on the lower right?
David Sternberg
This is David Sternberg. I followed the link instructions provided. On iMac, OS Catalina
hmm me too. Do you have chrome?
Camille Asmer
Camille Asmer
deramax is deracoxib?
David any luck? If not I will email you
4:13 PM
making sure chat is still working 🙂
jemw
y
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
yes
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
yep
Janet Graham
yep
Camille Asmer
Camille Asmer
yep
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Yes
🙂
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
My computer froze so I missed the beginning. Is this the same process he uses for his regular consults?
Nancy
Kristine, yes. He’s recapping now what you may have missed. 🙂
Mostly, just a little abbreviated. He got some of the history in advance because it was a course. that’s in the course materials.
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Is this a behavior only at home or did he do it at the daycare as well?
By the way the chat history is going to be part of the course materials so if you say something that you don’t want shared, please let me know.
which behavior melanie?
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
Thanks!
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
The inablility to meet new people. Daycare would have newer humans and some have higher turn over rates?
Nicky
A password vimeo is required to view he live. What is it?
Nicky
*the live
It shouldn’t need that. Can you refresh?
Emily
so the behavior is displayed off leash in house for greetings and on-leash outside the house? is that right?
The vimeo password is only if you want to use your vimeo credentials for the chat versus a guest.
Nicky
It’s okay. Its works.
jemw
it says live stream offline and video has jumped back
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
video running live here ok, can you refresh?
Ok great Nicky
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Does Luke have an issue if the person leans over at a distance and let Luke close the distance? or is it only the body language of leaning over in general?
4:29 PM
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
What an awesome client. She is a pretty savvy dog guardian.
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
Isn’t she, though!
Janet Graham
She’s done so much already! Love it!
Emily
I love how she pays close attention to her dogs – to the smallest of details. 🙂
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
emily – yes! She’s got it.
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
Have they done weight bearing weighing and measurements?
Barbara Brabant
Barbara Brabant
Yes! Wish more folks were like that!
Elly Price
it’s not the dog that needs training, it’s the people that’s are visiting,lol the owner is amazing.
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Elly – Right???
Emily
Spot on!
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Does he weight change backward when new person tries to pet, possibly triggering pain with injury in the back leg?
Barbara Brabant
Barbara Brabant
Interesting thought Melanie
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
I love how MS morphs into the prognosis with so much R+ !! I hope to become this smooth!
yes totally!
Nancy
Seriously… she needs to know how amazing she’s been with this issue! She’s put so much hard work and is continuing to look for solutions. Major kudos to her!
Yes! She will see these comments later
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
And she’s got bait!!!!
Elly Price
@Dep, lol
If for some reason you lose the comments, i can also take questions in my FB group.
Nienke
Nienke
I’m in awe with this owner. What a great work she has done so far. And such great observations!
I love her caveats about how he comes to them
Iain Sneddon
Iain Sneddon
totally 😀
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Yeah – she’s sooo educated !
Elly Price
@Grisha ,Yes
Elly Price
you can’t get expense. they can open the size you need
Elly Price
op’s *can
I’m not sure what you meant, Elly?
Nancy
@Grisha I think she means the gates that are expandable for the larger room entry-ways.
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
If he’s a jumper, a 48” ex pen could be affixed.
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
I think Elly means an X-pen to double as a baby gate to accommodate the wider doorways
Emily
I may have missed this – when people enter in the house, does she have him on leash dragging or off leash?
Elly Price
exercises pens can be opened up and set in between the large doorways
Elly Price
@Marissa yes
Elly Price
@Nancy Yes
4:59 PM
Barbara Brabant
Barbara Brabant
are these training sessions recorded for us to see?
Emily
on those short breaks into another room, does he recommend a kong or easy training behaviors or just hang out?
Barbara yes I believe so.
Ready to switch folks!
Emily
it seems like doing simple behaviors (i.e targeting) would be helpful.
Elly Price
this owner is very savvy with her dogs, not very often do I encounter a client like this
Emily
so i figured i’d ask 🙂
Ready Jill?
Camille Asmer
Camille Asmer
@Elly, I agree!
Elly Price
Yes ready for next
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
Is the plan to continue to mark and reinforce for looking at the stimulus or ever possibly marking and reinforcing for disengagement?
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
it’s stacey supposed to do the 15-20min session with ideally 3 people per session or 1 new person at a session?
I’ve told him it’s ok if we go a little long today. If you can’t stay up, it’ll all be in the recording
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Might you incorporate something like hand targeting after the dog seems to have more of a CER+ to people? Someone mentioned that here in the chat.
Elly Price
I was wondering about the hand targeting as well
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Have you found luck with scented clothes from that new person nearby during session?
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
What instructions does the person get coming over to Stacey’s house? no eye contact with dog, read a book, talking to Stacey?
5:18 PM
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Has Jill trialed a long leash for pottying outside of the house?
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
I would visit someone with 5 dogs.
Emily
so would I! *Kristine
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Has Mia tried any confidence building skills, like nosework, canine conditioning, project toys?
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
I feel for her! I have people look at me crazy when they hear I have 5 dogs!
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
I have 4 dogs, but I have every behavior issue in my household. Yes, I’ve had temp fosters as well, bringing our house to 5 dogs multiple times.
5:29 PM
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Does Lucas typically walk heavier or noisier around the house?
Nancy
Does she reserve the vocalizations for his departures only?
Nancy
(Oh… never mind… the next clip answered my question)
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Do any of the other dogs show any fear toward him as well?
Nancy
Oh! If that was the Doxie barking, then my original question remains: Does she only vocalize when it’s clear that he’s leaving the room?
I am about to try something to help the people who are locked out of chat. If for some reason Vimeo asks for a password, it is DOGS. You shouldn’t need to enter it unless you refresh the page.
Elly Price
with the questionnaire available somewhere on the site that we could use?
Elly Price
*is the questionnaire available somewhere on the site that we could use?
David Sternberg
David Sternberg
What percentage of the day is Mia Calm? Does she settle, display calm relaxed behavior with the other dogs around?
Jayne Fine
Jayne Fine
it worked for me!
yay!
Michael Curran
Chat fixed for me
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
I find this interesting because Mia is trying to escape and she can’t.
Emily
She tries to escape yet she did approach that one time… interesting
Elly Price
does Mia display the behavior when no other dogs are around, if it’s just harder and your son?
jemw
yaaay back in, needed password
yay welcome back David, Michael, Jem
Elly Price
*her
richie savage
richie savage
i have lost video but can now see chat
Lindsay
Yay!!! Thank you so much Grisha!!!!
Lindsay
Richie that happened to me, too. I left and came back in. it worked
jemw
i think chrosti has lost the video
jemw
christi
if video gets lost just refresh the page and use DOGS for password
May need to refresh after adding that password too… when in doubt refresh 🙂
Thank you all so much for your patience. 🙂
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Emily – yep. So Lucas moving around really is a trigger.
I’ve been working hard in the background
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
I wonder how she would be with Lucas outside on a walk
richie savage
richie savage
Now I have both video and chat, thank you!
Emily
I wonder if when Lucas is sitting, he tosses at a pretty far distance (her safe distance) desirable food… in 2-3 min sessions… would that help to start a very small relationship?
Whoop! just in time for the official Q&A after he’s done here. Right now he’s not technically fielding questions. That’s how we’ve set it up, for him to work and then take questions at the end.
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
If she has back pain it may hurt her to lookup to someone that is tall like that.
I’m sharing the questions with him directly, so feel free to keep posting them and talking amongst ourselves
jemw
what are michaels thought on using play when doing cc around triggers (not necessarily specific to these cases) or is there too much concern of amping the dog up so they are more likely to react?
5:54 PM
jemw
why does michael prefer verbal to clicker? just curious
Emily
same question as @jemw why the verbal over clicker?
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
We use verbal marker “TAG”, since it’s not used much in conversation, But my pups also know Box Clicker and Button Clicker.
Elly Price
if the dog is sensitive, he might be afraid of the clicker
Tag would also be pretty salient
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
I assume it’s because people can be quicker with verbal than they can with a clicker and she may need both hands to help her during this stage of Mia’s CC\
Vivien
I think the clicker is just one more thing to add and we want to make it as easy for the Client as we can
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Jemw and Emily: Some shy dogs are very fearful of the sound. Not to mention the verbal is usually with you all the time
jemw
yeah i usually use verbal with most clients but curious on specific reason in this case, sounds like she is very sensitive
Emily
valid points on verbal is easier for client to handle and “always there”… what i was thinking that it’s so unique/distinct that it may help her to focus… though if she’s sound sennsitive that could be a problem… i’ve used a pen as a clicker i wonder if that could work
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Maybe using a verbal to make it simple and easiest as possible for the client?
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
Would teaching her Place be helpful in helping reduce her over all anxiety and lacking of settling that she’s experiencing all the time?
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
My dogs’ behaviorist also uses verbal “TAG” since its often that shy or underconfident dogs have issues with clicker sounds
Nancy
Did anyone else just get booted?
Jessica Novstrup
Jessica Novstrup
Yes
jemw
not yet
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
Place will likely be used at some point but for now he wants her on lead because I don’t think Mia will stay still. She is too triggered by him and would likely practice the behaviors he wants to interrupt and change.
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
I got booted a few minutes ago and had to do several refreshes
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Box Clicker I use for Classes, Button Clicker for indiviual training, and Verbal for behavior. We practice all 3 with all 4 dogs in different scenerios
Thanks for the tech support to each other 🙂
Emily
@Melanie Very similar here for my family! I end up using verbals once behavior is established .
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
I’ve got a black screen.
Thanks for your patience with this first round with Mike.
Deb refresh the page
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
@Karen, yes, I don’t think it would be good to work with her on it with Lucas but since he’s only home for a handful of days a month, it would be more something to work on during the rest of the time since she had mentioned that she is always on high alert, even when Lucas isnt
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
home
Nancy
Refreshed and used the DOGS password. All good!
Caryl-Rose
Had to refresh and use DOGS password just now too.
Fascinating. I just had a long chat with Vimeo and they’re fixing this for next time
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
I had to log out and then back in. Using DOGS got me a black screen.. But I’m back!
That happened to me too Deb but refreshing the page worked after that. You’re back with video?
Marissa Treece, CPDT-KA
To clarify my initial question. Would teaching Place and doing place work be helpful in reducing Mia’s anxiety in her everyday life, not when Lucas is home? She had mentioned that she wanted to up her does for anxiety
Michael Curran
It has helped me with a dog who Specifics reacted to my scent
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Would the high value treat that is only used with Lukas, make Mia anxious that he is going to come if its only used on that occasion?
Linda Nico
Linda Nico
ditto on the refresh thing and password
Jessica Novstrup
Jessica Novstrup
How would set ups be different if the dog is anxious around small kids in the home?
Jayne Fine
Jayne Fine
how does this differ from a normal consult w a client given both of these consults had training experience? (i.e., do you go more into detail on magangement, training instructions, etc)
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Yes have video
Welcome back to all 🙂
Michael Curran could you clarify your question?
Elly Price
Yes, thank you!
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
I have a genetic anxiety disorder dog who is more fearful of humans that walk “Heavy”, but has done better with canine conditioning exercises for confidence building
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
@Jayne – most of my clients need to understand how to charge a marker, etc. And way more hand holding!
Michael Curran
Was not a question, was responding to question regarding scented clothing
To get the Mia and Luke’s data, look for their name on the course page/
David Sternberg
David Sternberg
Since Mia displayed a behavior change when Lucas approaches the gate, predictor, would it be a benefit for him to make approaches without entering to assist with this to lessen the predictability factor? This should not have a pattern, starting at appropriate distance from the fa
ah got it, thanks!
Jayne Fine
Jayne Fine
@Deb- I figured probably this an abbreviated version of a normal video/distance consult
David Sternberg
David Sternberg
Distance from the Gate! not fa
🙂
Brian Munro
How might Mia be managed when Lucas is around- not during the set-ups? Just using baby gates to help her avoid interactions with him or not entering into the same space?
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Does Mia have any issues with hands moving? I’m thinking about the treat tossing.
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
and if her back hurts the treat tossing would have to be done carefully.
6:15 PM
Michael Curran
Family paws dogs and toddlers has been helpful with smaller kids
David Sternberg
David Sternberg
Does Mia show a change in behavior when others people come through the gate to the kitchen?
Nancy
Swinging his leg over the gate created a response, too.
jemw
what other courses do you do nmichael 🙂
jemw
michael, sorry
Deb Manheim
Deb Manheim
Thank you Stacey and Jill. So kind of you to share!
jemw
yes very kind thankyou
David Sternberg
David Sternberg
Thank you all, most kind to share.
Michael Curran
Jena, his aggression in dogs master course is great too
Linda Nico
Linda Nico
Great Michael, thanks to Stacey and Jill
jemw
oo where is that?
Elly Price
thank you kindly! <3
Melanie Gantt
Melanie Gantt
Thank You Mike, Grisha, Stacey, and Jill!!!
Lindsay
jemw it’s online!
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
Great stuff! Thanks to all!
Janet Graham
Thank You!
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
Kristine Mele Uw-aab Cpdt-ka
This was great!
Lindsay
This was so helpful. THank you !!!
Karen Elizabeth
Karen Elizabeth
Thank you!! Looking forward to the next ones
Brian Munro
Brian Munro
thus was great. Thank you@
jemw
night everyone
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Kirtan Yoga Christchurch
Thank you for the session. Looking forward to the follow up!

Chat Transcript for Review Session 5

Click here for the video.
Note that if it doesn’t say who typed, then that’s me (Grisha).

Good morning, see you all soon!
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Good morning!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Hi Grisha and everyone!
Good morning Teress and Stephen 🙂
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Valentine’s Day BAT, how perfect!
Susan
Happy Valentines Day all!
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Hi! I can only stay on until 10:45 today. Happy Valentines Day everyone!
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Looking forward to today’s action and lessons with Team Sophie.
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
I am enjoying these “lovely” videos on this Valentines Day.
Thanks for coming Dayna
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Grisha, what is the name of the song that is playing now?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Can’t hear a song…
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Ah, unmuting helps!
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
good morning!
Laura Glaser Harrington
Good morning
Laura Glaser Harrington
it’s Laura
Good fmorning
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
hearts to all
Jacqueline Moreno
Jacqueline Moreno
Hi!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
UK dates soon?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
hello! Please hold the dates of 9/16-9/20 (five days) for UK Cert Course
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Where Ellen?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
hang on… I have to look at spelling of city lol
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
If the dog is moving very fast but not directly at the trigger, would you still continue?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
good morning all
good morning!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Hi Barbara
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Stephen: Godmanchester
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Thanks Ellen. About 200 miles from me. Hadn’t appreciated it was a 5-day course…
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Lots of hands on and material to cover. 🙂
leashlassie
leashlassie
Good morning!
Laura Glaser Harrington
having the team on the other side of the dog, away from the trigger, was a good suggestion
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Weds to Sun I think that is Ellen. May be difficult to get the weekdays. Cost?
Laura Glaser Harrington
okay:)
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
great
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Sophie is doing a great job of providing ‘learning opportunities’ for the rest of us. 🙂
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Is she physically okay? Is her poop soft? Or is the ‘zooming’ learned behavior? Or does it only occur in more stressful situations with her?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
a challenging dog gives us lots of important information
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Those fast moving dogs often benefit from “tapping the breaks” concept – as the lead goes out, pressure – release – pressure – release vs a full stop
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Anti-lock braking!!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Agree, Grisha! Sophie is def getting more responsive
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Suzanne her stool is good,no issues physically.
Laura Glaser Harrington
sort of like half halts for horse people?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
a lot less time this session for Sophie choosing sniffing vs moving. Has this area been sniffed out for Sophie or might need more sniff spots.
Laura Glaser Harrington
what if you gave poop zoomie dogs a treat, tossed on the ground, right after the poop? If they come to expect that they may not zoom as much?
Caryl-Rose
So like tapping the brakes but not jerking into reverse?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
If it’s not zooming, but straight line not to trigger, is that OK?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Fasrt…
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Do all of you usually do BAT silently, or can voice be used to add benefit?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Fast that should say
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Humans may practice leash skills with zoomies by tying the leash to a rolling chair and kicking it out. 🙂
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Then stopping the chair from rolling away too far
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Would be great if dogpeople could work with horses as well; a lot of the BAT-energy and -work is so great to feel/do with horses. It is so nice, since they are very sensitive f.e. for body language, energy, soft hands etc. :-).
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Doing clicker training with a horse Suzanne, so could try BAT too
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Horses are often scared of what may seem like “trivial” things like plastic bags or anything on the ground…
beverly kramer
beverly kramer
Bend at the knees seems to be a direction people have a difficult idea for many. TAG of “seat to heels” might work in visualizing a picture of what your body should look like.
Laura Glaser Harrington
squatting down is hard because she plows into you
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Have you got a brighter colour for the pointer Grisha?
Laura Glaser Harrington
movement of the other dog I think makes it harder for Sophie. So when she looks, and then dog moves away she got more excited
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
yes
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
I think for a dog like Sophie, that two-second guide is a good one, as well.
Laura Glaser Harrington
It was nice she checked in with Dayna before focusing on dog again
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
and not stepping forward might help
7:42 AM
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Do you always slide with both hands or just one to start with?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
I need to pop off everyone- have a great and see you next week!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Makes sense, thanks!
Laura Glaser Harrington
bye Dayna
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
I appreciate you too Grisha!! Bye!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Thanks Dayna!
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
As I understand it you see the zooming as something that Sophie just is. I mean, it is not something you would read as that the situation in this field is (a bit) too difficult at the moment for her?
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Ah, okay! 🙂
Laura Glaser Harrington
haha
Laura Glaser Harrington
I think trigger moving is making it more difficult. If Stevie and dog were sitting it might be easy
Laura Glaser Harrington
easier
beverly kramer
beverly kramer
At one point you read the zooming as benign and then towards the end it appeared as though you changed your mind and wanted to get the zooming under control. What changed your mind?
Laura Glaser Harrington
Say that again please….zig zagging note
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
redirect attention with the zig zag will offer her a break from the environment and energy she is feeling
Laura Glaser Harrington
gotcha
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Hi Beverly, Grisha will comment, but I would say that the zooming increased: became more repetitive and faster so reducing her arousal level as presented in zoomies I think made sense
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
As well as the fast movement not directly at the trigger, is vocalising at the same time necessarily an issue or would you tend to stop if that happens?
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Is there a difference, in your mind, between ‘playfulness’ and ‘excitement’? Calm & unconcerned seems to be the goal, but a happy playful dog is also ‘unconcerned’…??
Laura Glaser Harrington
what if we flipped the setup? Helper is in place in the bigger part of the field, closer field to the building is enriched. So she comes out, dog in background already
Laura Glaser Harrington
Good idea
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
I like the nosework play as it always presents with calming energy from what I’ve seen. Sniffing focuses the brain.
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Exiting about Rise van Fleewt
yes! I’m excited too
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Glad to see some Sophie time…with all helpers sitting down and letting her do her thing.
totally!
Laura Glaser Harrington
yep
8:06 AM
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Loved the “happy” dog face on top of the table with her fan club. “This is more like it!”
Laura Glaser Harrington
when we put boxes out in the field, do we want to have some boxes with a treat, some upside with a tennis ball, some with toilet paper roll. Variety
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
I saw several situations where Sophie engaged with people, and the person’s interaction back was also high energy and playful. Might there have been an opportunity to model a calmer energy level (resting hand on her vs vigorous petting, offer treats slowly, etc.) to help Sophie?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
What will they do with Sophie after next week to continue the process?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Stephen asked about vocalizing at the same time as zoomies even if away from trigger. I would suggesting stopping, for sure, because the arousal level is high with that combo of behavior.
Laura Glaser Harrington
ok
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Thanks Ellen.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
What’s the Barking Mad Grisha?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Using items in the boxes that cause arousal for Sophie, i.e. the ball may increase arousal?

Barking Mad: BAT and Other Techniques for Frustration


Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Love seeing how quickly Sophie & Simon are building their relationship.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Thank you – interesting link name!
yes I’d rather use things that go away quickly, like treats
Laura Glaser Harrington
I agree Barbara, but I was thinking a tennis ball would be a fun find, but it’s not tossed. Giving variety may keep it more interesting for Sophie
And I’d like to watch through the videos again and see what actually happens to her arousal when a ball is found
Laura Glaser Harrington
right, then she may just hold onto the ball
Because affect is important, not just arousal level. And she likes tennis balls.
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Agree with Brian about petting energy, but also think if they kept petting shorter, 5 second then stop to see if she wants more may help too.
yes
Laura Glaser Harrington
🙂
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Brian, yes! I think establishing a relationship with this couple, decompressing in their home, finding outlets for arousal that allow her to have fun – a little routine that doesn’t involve a routine of “what’s next” – will make a huge difference; like with any dog, right? 🙂
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
carrrying a ball can be soothing too
Jacqueline Moreno
Jacqueline Moreno
the team rocks!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
On the UK course, where can I find the price?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
well done team
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
I saw several situations where Sophie engaged with people, and the person’s interaction back was also high energy and playful. Might there have been an opportunity to model a calmer energy level (resting hand on her vs vigorous petting, offer treats slowly, etc.) to help Sophie?
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Does it work for Emma and Simon to manage her encounters with dogs at home?
Laura Glaser Harrington
Thanks Jacqueline:)
Laura Glaser Harrington
I’ve offered a complimentary session in the home
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Great suggestions re decompressing.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Nice Laura!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Yes, Jacqueline!
Laura Glaser Harrington
Thanks Stephen!
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
That’s great Laura.
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Thank you.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Ellen/Grisha – UK course booking?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
HI Stephen! FB PM me – we are working on the detials
Susan
Thanks all! fascinating
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Thank you all! 😀
Registration should be on https://officialbatschool.com/ – now or soon
Michael’s class (not BAT, should be good contrast): https://grishastewart.com/aggression2020
Barbara Sperling
Looking forward to Michael’s class.
me too!
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
O btw Stephen, I did CT with horses too. 🙂 Soo nice isnt it.

Session 4: Shikashio Aggression Cases (Thu 3/26) Available Now

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

The chat box is still below the video.  Click the button that shows up at the end of the video to add it to your history for CEUs.

TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  •  The CEUs are reported for the whole class, so you the entire series of Michael Shikashio Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

Session 3: Shikashio Aggression Cases (Thu 3/12) Available Now

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course.


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  •  The CEUs are reported for the whole class, so you the entire series of Michael Shikashio Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 2: Shikashio Aggression Cases (Thu 2/27) Available Now

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  •  The CEUs are reported for the whole class, so you the entire series of Michael Shikashio Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]Email us if you are having trouble accessing the course.[/s2If]

Session 1: Shikashio Aggression Cases (Thu 2/20) Available Now

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or LOG IN AND REFRESH THIS PAGE if you have already purchased it. Email us if you have refreshed and don’t see a video.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  •  The CEUs are reported for the whole class, so you the entire series of Michael Shikashio Aggression Case Sessions Videos must be in your viewing history (total of 4 videos).
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually. For all others, you can use the My Video History as your proof of attendance to submit to your certification organization.

[/s2If]

Chat Transcript for Review Session 4

Click here for the video.
Note that if it doesn’t say who typed, then that’s me (Grisha).

HI everybody!
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Good morning!
🙂
Thanks for your patience
How does it sound? LMK if you can hear me and if you can hear the video
the video I’ll be playing
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Sounds good to me!
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
I see video
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
I hear you Grisha
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
I see you too
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
good morning , yes I can hear you
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
and see you
yay!
Dana Funk
Good morning!
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Hello!
Laura Glaser Harrington
good morning! Hi Dana Funk
Laura Glaser Harrington
Hi Dayna V
Dana Funk
Hey there Laura!!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Hi Grisha and All!
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Good morning from soggy Pacific NW.
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Good moring everyone! Victoria from Washington State – and yes its R A I N I N G!
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Right Wendy? It can stop anytime..
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Looking forward to spring frog music.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
We are getting your horrible weather on Sunday here in the UK – thank you!
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
lol you can keep it!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
We can’t send it back unfortunately…
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
it’s all good
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Yes we are!
Laura Glaser Harrington
all ears:)
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Yes!
Dana Funk
Still here!
Nienke
Nienke
HI Grisha, hi everyone. 🙂
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
my thought exactly,
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Yes, noticed that about Simon…
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Good morning all
Hi Lee, hi everybody!
Laura Glaser Harrington
ok
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Simon has a thick accent so it could be too that he doesn’t under everything if english isn’t his first language
Laura Glaser Harrington
I may loose power though soon
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Just a thought, total speculation
ah thank you Dayna!
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
it keeps repeating – is it doing this for everyone or just me?
He seems to respond ok
maybe refresh your browser?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
try reloading, sound is fine here
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Victoria…I just refresh when that happens.
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
thanks
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
I think he’s doing fine. Just scanning a new environment at the beginning but totally focused on you
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
It does that quite often Victoria and refreshing works
Good observation, Barbara
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Pilates squats
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Crouching right down is much easier anyway, although getting up again might be more of a challenge!
Laura Glaser Harrington
what would you suggest for older clients who might find crouching challenging?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
You also want to be at an angle when you do it, no directly head on to the dog for example.
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
What do you do if you are working with a dog that likes to get in your face and you wear glasses?!
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
if someone has a squat challenge would it be better to turn your body sideways to the dog so your not bending over it?;
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Using the lead as your support during the knee bend will make it taut
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
thanks! ;P
Laura Glaser Harrington
we’re not using the leash for support, just softening knees
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
I just thought that this setup would be a great way to strengthen the bent knees keeping it body oriented.
Laura Glaser Harrington
We’re explaining importance of exercise to Sophie’s caregivers (Laura)
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Having one knee on the ground can be easier if you find it difficult to squat.
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
still thinking about the knees and squatting, I think in my experience when I lower my body, especially as low as squatting, it often induces the dog to come towards me, or into my space…
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
ok, thanks I see the point now – softening
Caryl-Rose
Now that I’m off Safari, I can comment! It was such a lovely session 🙂
yes 🙂 thanks for asking for clarification
yay! Thanks Caryl-Rose. It felt much better.
Laura Glaser Harrington
can’t hear you talking now
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Just typing…
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
Same here
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
same
Susan
no audio
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
are we hearing Laura typing
Laura Glaser Harrington
not me (L)
all good now?
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
ha ha
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
OK now
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Yes, good
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
good
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
Yep – all good now
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
typing only
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
I may need to change a setting on my computer for screen ratio to be able to watch and type at the same time
https://grishastewart.com/comments-only
Laura Glaser Harrington
Team isn’t randomly texting, setting phones to hear Grisha
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
thank you
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Did you see signs of frustration from Sophie in the last session (in relation to the helper dog)?
Laura Glaser Harrington
to hear you (L)
Laura Glaser Harrington
yep
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
sitting back into it like Laura did
Caryl-Rose
In urban areas, I suggest the standing on moving bus or subway stance and demo it. I also talk about putting your weight on your back foot and using your front foot for balance rather than main weight bearing.
Laura Glaser Harrington
The freeze exercise was very helpful (L)
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Stevie’s always such a delightfully happy dog LOL
Laura Glaser Harrington
love Stevie’s happy prance (L)
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
what about anchoring hands at center of body mass, while still maintainig a braking distance?
yes definitely helpful lee
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
thanks
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Yes, thats what I do if I have a dog that lunges
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Do you always let de slide preceed a slow stop? I have trained myself to do slow-stops on my walks without the sliding part. I do do those when I start walking again (when necesary).
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Does “elbows in ” work?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Are Emma and Simon working on these practice positions indoors with input from Laura before hands on work?
Laura Glaser Harrington
They have my contact info and I’ve let them know they can reach out anytime (L)
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
They could practice taking it in turns as handler and dog with all those exercises.
Laura Glaser Harrington
it was about the same temperature as last week, but no shivering this time
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
At home I mean
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
The group is doing a great job at handling the leash. poopy zoomies!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
You or the dog Laura?
Laura Glaser Harrington
Dayna did a great job! (L)
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
What do you do if the dog just sits (or lies down), not attempting to move to the helper dog, but maybe looking at it?
yes she did!
Laura Glaser Harrington
it’s also a different neutral dog each time (L)
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Question: would each new enviroment or change of handler be a potential start over with distance?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
that was beautiful
Caryl-Rose
Beautiful BAT moments!
Laura Glaser Harrington
🙂 CR
Laura Glaser Harrington
Thanks!
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
I love when you get those SUCCESS moments!!! 😉 It
Caryl-Rose
That sequence might be good to review with owners so they understand and share the excitement.
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
It’s good to know they have access to this
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
O great that you mention about petting when Sophie jumped on her owner. Is that something you do more often. I mean, tel me more! 🙂 I just visited a Doberman with the same behavoir and the need to be petted we felt. But I was confused: she also came so very much in pers. space
Laura Glaser Harrington
that’s a mat that neutral dog laid on (L)
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
balance – it may help to visualize the weight on the back foot and the front foot is the door stop or brace.
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
If sniffing becomes manic – we guide away?
yes
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
would you advise to do slow stops when Sophie picks up speed towards a target even if it
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
it’s the toy bin or blind.
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
is there a sweet spot with sniffing new areas – and coyote poo and other wildlifey things – I am having a little trouble figuring out when she becomes manic vs normal behavior. Manic sniffing can be overt but then sometimes not so much. Does that make any sense?
Laura Glaser Harrington
Sophie uses sniffing as a strategy to get closer to the neutral, then she starts to hurry (L)
Laura Glaser Harrington
neutral dog
Laura Glaser Harrington
great idea having one of the caregivers give the peanut butter in safe place (L)
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
thank you
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
What signs do you look for in terms of frustration (versus fear for example)?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Was the video jumping during recording or is it just me?
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Can you describe a situation where ‘dragging the dog away’ may be the least aversive option?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
might be me, we are having an ice storm
Laura Glaser Harrington
video is choppy for me too Barbara (L)
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
In future, they may be able to connect Skype via 4G vs WiFi so signal strength is more consistent…??
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Dayna does a great emergency away with treat under nose and turning back and towards her.
she does! Dayna does an excellent job of management
I think it was 4G but I will make sure. It’s wifi inside and maybe we need to make sure it switches over to phone signal. Thanks Brian
Laura Glaser Harrington
we did scatter hotdog and cheese in the middle part (L)
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Could you explain a little why you would decide to let the owner pet her (when Sophie jumped on him).
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
I noticed Dayna only used half the length of the long line. Is there an opportunity to reduce the number of tight leash moments more?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
It was wonderful to see her beeline to Simon for connection and a break.
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
And when is the time right tot stop throwing extra food in the grass?
will do!
Laura Glaser Harrington
cant hear now
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
I lost the feed for a few seconds, so don’t know if you saw my question about what to do if the dog just sits, maybe looking at the helper dog, but showing no signs of moving towards?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
you a little box on screen and no sound
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
refresh didn’t fix
Laura Glaser Harrington
yep
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Thanks!
Laura Glaser Harrington
I can hear
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
total out and back in fixed it
Laura Glaser Harrington
duly noted
Dana Funk
Yes, great session. Good to see her starting to make good choices.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Great, thanks. They were a loooong way away
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
building the good BAT moments each session
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
missed the point you made that prompted Laura to respond duly noted? sounds like it was important
Laura Glaser Harrington
we didn’t do the move helper away when Sophie looks, I think because Stevie couldn’t see
Laura Glaser Harrington
it’s mutual!
Laura Glaser Harrington
haha
Laura Glaser Harrington
so when Sophie looks, Grisha if you tell Stevie we could do that (L)
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
oh good, thanks for going back over it
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
I had 2 questions. “dragging the dog away’ and ‘using the full length of the long line’
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Good learning session…great teamwork and nice to see Sophie’s people involved.
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
they were up higher on the chat
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Can you describe a situation where ‘dragging the dog away’ may be the least aversive option?
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
I noticed Dayna only used half the length of the long line. Is there an opportunity to reduce the number of tight leash moments more?
Laura Glaser Harrington
Thanks Wendy! (L)
Laura Glaser Harrington
You’re welcome:-)
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
This was a great session, so much positive learning going on for all of us
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
I get a real feeling of teamwork here between you all and it is inspiring.
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Got it. Thanks.
Laura Glaser Harrington
Thanks Lee (L)
Laura Glaser Harrington
it is!!
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
To Brian’s point – if dog is on the long line and a trigger pops up unexpectedly and dog is super reactive and is not responding?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
teleportation, lol
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Thank you. Real life happens. 🙂
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
so if I can summarize: to remove dog from a situation where they are over their head, and actively reacting? tjhen steadily move them away?
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
Great session! Looking forward to next week’s!
Laura Glaser Harrington
I think Vada was adopted (L)
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Thanks Grisha!
Laura Glaser Harrington
Thanks Grisha! (L)
Dana Funk
Thanks team! Thanks Grisha. Great information.
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Thanks all
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Yes Vada got adopted the minute our session was over! She had three families waiting for her!
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Bye!
Caryl-Rose
Great session!
Laura Glaser Harrington
Thanks CR!
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
thanks everyone!
Yes our helpers keep getting adopted! Great outome though.
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Thanks!
Nienke
Nienke
Thank you. 🙂
leashlassie
leashlassie
Wonderful session
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Gracias.

Member Search

Click here for the Roster page

CCAP meanings are below the search results

[s2Member-List-Search-Box /] [s2Member-List enable_list_search=”yes” show_fields=”first_name,last_name,email,user_login,s2member_access_label,s2member_auto_eot_time,s2member_login_counter,s2member_access_ccaps”/]


CCAPS

BAT 101: course_002_bt

Empowered Puppy: course_003_ep

Barking Mad: course_001_bm

Leash Skills: course_004_ls

Puppy Power: course_005_pp

Two-Way Communication: course_006_co

Focus Tricks: course_007_ft

How to Human: course_004_hh

ShelterBAT: course_008_sh

Film series: film_007_series,film_001_twm,film_002_wwm, film_003_ppp, film_004_ssdr,film_005_b2su, film_006_bfg

Talk with Me: film_001_twm

Walk with Me: film_002_wwm

Problem Prevention: film_003_ppp

Survival Skills: film_004_ssdr

BAT Set-Ups: film_005_b2su

BAT for Geeks: film_006_bfg

Webinars:

Intro to BAT: webinar_001_bat2

BAT Leash Skills: webinar_002_leash

BAT for Geeks: webinar_003_geek

7 methods: webinar_004_com

Yoga with Jo Rosie: webinar_007_yoga

Evolution of BAT: webinar_041_batevolution

Ahimsa book: ebook_001_ahimsa

BAT book: I think it’s ebook_002_bat

BAT 2.0 book ebook_003_bat2

Dutch Ahimsa: ebook_004_ahimsanl

TEAMWORK SEMINARS

webinar_019_twnyc

webinar_020_twnh

webinar_027_pro

webinar_021_twbos

webinar_022_twalb

webinar_023_twsyr

webinar_024_twphl

webinar_025_twnyc2

webinar_008_twbakersfield

webinar_009_twsandiego

webinar_010_twla

webinar_011_twfresno

webinar_012_twsanjose

webinar_013_twsacramento

webinar_014_twbend

webinar_015_twportland

webinar_016_twyakima

webinar_017_twspokane

webinar_026_twbc


Chat Transcript for Review Session 3

Click here for the video.

Grisha: Welcome! see you at the top of the hour



Jill Wattles: 
Good Morning 🙂
3:50 PM

Dayna Villa
: hi!




Teressa Hill
: Good morning!
Grisha: Good morning
Grisha: Hi Dayna!


Hi Teressa! Hi Jill!
Victoria Gideon: 
Happy Friday! So excited to here Sophie got adopted!




Dayna Villa: 
I know! Such great news!



Happy Friday!


I’m so happy for her.



Stephen Bell
: Hi Everyone! Grisha – I have several questions, should I post them all now?



Sure go ahead. Ask them again if I don’t get to them.



Stephen Bell: 
OK! I will post individually…




Dayna Villa: 
And our first helper, Silas, went into a foster home which will probably lead to an adoption!
Grisha: If it’s helpful for viewing side by side, I have a separate page with comments: https://grishastewart.com/comments-only



Stephen Bell
: 1. Frequency of sessions – would you do more than one a week if practical and possible and how many would be too many?
Grisha: 



A better system is in development



Wendy Dahl: 
Looking forward to today’s review.




Stephen Bell: 
2. Does the BAT 2.0 approach always generalise to other dogs beyond the helpers?




Stephen Bell
: For the frequency, I meant in general, not just in this scenario…
Grisha: you may be sitting for a while, so now is a good time to stretch. Of course you can stretch during the show too!



Stephen Bell
: 3. Is it best to change environments regularly?




Stephen Bell: 
4. Does going over threshold necessarily set the dog back?




Stephen Bell: 
5. Does it matter if the helper and/or dog are well known to the student dog?




Stephen Bell: 
6. Should the helper dog be still or walking back and forth to start with?




Stephen Bell
: That’s my 6 questions for now. Sorry for the bombardment!




Vanesa B Vizuete
: Good morning!!! Buenos dias!!! 🙂
Laura Glaser Harrington
: Hi Grisha
Laura Glaser Harrington: 
good
Caryl-Rose
: I used my couple of minutes before we start here to sign up for Michael Shikashio’s course!




Stephen Bell
: I am signed up too!
Laura Glaser Harrington: 
Today is the last “early bird” sign up, right?




Teressa Hill
: So happy for Sophie!




Caryl-Rose
I think it is the last early bird day, right!




Brian J. Sweet: 
I can already tell leash handling skills have improved a lot w/ letting leash out more. Good job!




Jill Wattles
anyone else have no audio?




Jill Wattles: 
got it now




Lee Morrow: 
Hi Everyone, very happy for Sophie and Silas! Grisha, you maintain your “zen” so well while out of the country and having tech gremlins!




Nienke: 
A bit late. Apologies. Good morning, afternoon, evening from Chiang Mai again. :)



4:13 PM
Laura Glaser Harrington
: sometimes the leash tightens when the human goes for a treat.




Dayna Villa: 
kk




Stephen Bell: 
My q’s are at beginning Grisha
Laura Glaser Harrington
: do you think walking towards her, prompted her to move forward?
Laura Glaser Harrington
: Dayna is really good about her balance




Brian J. Sweet
: do you recommend doing a lot of “let’s go” work when triggers are not present, so it is more engrained and potentially easier to use when in a situation like this?
Laura Glaser Harrington: 
this is my favorite learning moment of this session….allowing the dog to chose how they would like to self soothe, and paying attention to if the dog needs to self soothe, and adjusting setup
Laura Glaser Harrington
: noticing that she didn’t need to self soothe when she was further back




Lee Morrow
: This may not be the right place for this question so ignore if it isn’t. I have been forgetting to follow the link at the end of the sessions to save video to “my video history” is there a way to go back and capture that link? Do I need to rewatch the recording?




Stephen Bell
: Thank you so much for answering all those q’s Grisha – brilliant!!




Brian J. Sweet
: you mention, before, about doing some ‘tight leash conditioning’. Can you talk more about that?




Beth
How important do you think it is to keep the helper dog the same each session? Do you feel it’s more important the closer the dogs get to meeting?




Lee Morrow
: What is the average amount of space you look for to be able to do a set-up? Maybe it is dog-dependent?
Laura Glaser Harrington
: Emma took a thundershirt home with her
Laura Glaser Harrington
: yes it is




Lee Morrow
: Ohh! Thanks!
Laura Glaser Harrington
: Sophie




Suzanne Huijs
: Do you mean with ‘friends’ that they can walk together with still a little distance between them, or actually meet physically and smell each other?




Lee Morrow: 
Thanks, I was thinking about trying to identify places in my community where I could start trying to work on/practice set-ups, just practice, not real thing, but learning what to look for. Same as places that are generally recommended for owners of reactive dogs to try walks??




beverly kramer
: You mentioned that this dog has explored the neighborhood on walks. What directives were given on meeting any other dogs on these neighborhood walks?




Dayna Villa
: At the time of adoption they were advised she hasn’t done well meeting too many other dogs so we advised against it. I believe Laura did give her more advice during this session- is that right Laura?
Laura Glaser Harrington
: I talked about the usefulness of “Find It’, practicing in the house then when she sees other dogs, but I wasn’t able to give her a lot of info




Wendy Dahl
: Not sure if you saw my suggestion of creating a quiet space using both xpens in the yard (to create a comfortable place) where Emma could sit with Sophie as Sophie enjoys toys.
Laura Glaser Harrington
: better when I was squatting down rather than leaning over
Laura Glaser Harrington
: we’re hearing you talk and audio at the same time




Jill Wattles
: Why is touching the paws a no-no?
Laura Glaser Harrington: 
I think it also might have been stress zoomies…like she’s telling us she’s had enough
Laura Glaser Harrington
: again walking towards dog while she’s looking at a potential trigger pushes her towards trigger




Suzanne Huijs
: Could it be Caroline has been training a lot wit Sophie while she was in the shelter. I previously also saw great enthousiasm when Caroline entered. She might then be more focused on earning treats, then walking free sniffing? And this might be confusing her as well?
Laura Glaser Harrington
: 🙂
Laura Glaser Harrington
: right there, Carolyn takes a step forward and that makes Sophie rush towards trigger




Stephen Bell
: Would you then hold on the tight leash until she turned after the slow stop?




Stephen Bell: 
If she keeps taking up the slack that is…
Laura Glaser Harrington
: that’s a good point about Sophie expecting that space means play with toys. What about toys causing increase of arousal?




Suzanne Huijs
: Thank you so much, Grisha and everyone there, for also sharing the things that did not work out this time. It is so nice to realise that we all make ‘mistakes’, cause we just do. 🙂 And to learn from for next time. You are teaching me to be more compassionate about mistakes. 🙂
Laura Glaser Harrington: 
oops




Stephen Bell
: This is real life!!
Laura Glaser Harrington: 
you guys are all so nice about our mistakes:-)




Stephen Bell
: We don’t want to see a perfect set-up…




Victoria Gideon-Photography
: I appriciate the flub ups, It helps to see what to do if that happens so thank you 🙂 <3
Laura Glaser Harrington
: not sure if we still have Dayna




Dayna Villa: 
This is where we do playgroups- which she participated in a couple times,mostly without success
Laura Glaser Harrington
: Dayna, how long was she at PAC?




Dayna Villa
: This is where they can run off leash to play so she had a lot of experiences just running off leash in the space with a person playing with her or just watching her




Stephen Bell
: Did she do that with Emma?




Victoria Gideon-Photography
: Are there ways to teach your clients for muscle memory without the dog – sometimes training the client and training the dog can be confusing to the dog I think




Dayna Villa: 
Sophie came in 11/23 and was pretty much there the whole time- with a short stint of getting adopted for a couple days but got returned




Dayna Villa
: Grisha ask your questions again please?
Laura Glaser Harrington
: I agree Victoria




Dayna Villa
: She has no experience in the field we will work in next time, maybe one walk through but likely was never walked there




Stephen Bell
: Dog goes upstairs in the background!
Laura Glaser Harrington
: I walked her there once
Dayna Villa: 
Laura I am sure you were probably the only one




Brian J. Sweet
: Good, the whole topic of ‘introducing a dog to a new space’ will be good.




leashlassie: 
Great session




Dayna Villa
: Her dad Simon may attend next time too!




Stephen Bell: 
This whole experience is so fantastic Grisah and all!!




Brian J. Sweet
: Thank you.
Laura Glaser Harrington
: Thanks!




Victoria Gideon-Photography
: off topic – any idea what cities BAT CERT will be offered next year :)




Dayna Villa
: hahaha
Caryl-Rose
: Thank you! Great review session!




Stephen Bell
: BAT in the Uk soon I think?




Cindy Ehlers, CPDT-KA
: Thank you!




Dayna Villa
: Bye all!




Vanesa B Vizuete
: Enjoy your vacaciones ;)




Betina Sabinsky
: Thank you, great reviews….




Victoria Gideon-Photography
: Im Voting for WA or OR hint hint




Lee Morrow
: Wyomying and Michigan
Laura Glaser Harrington: 
bye




Nienke
: THank you




Stephen Bell
: Thank you Grisha!




Victoria Gideon-Photography
: Thank you!!!!




Lee Morrow
: thanks everyone!
Grisha: Thanks everybody!


 Here’s the link for finding a CBATI: https://grishastewart.com/cbati

On-Site Cameras (Raw sessions from a different angle)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

These are the videos taken by the on-site camera.[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

These videos usually don’t have much of the audio discussion from the course, but they are often higher resolution and might be an angle that’s helpful to watch. These don’t count toward CEUs.

Session 1:

Session 2:

Session 3:

Not available – was not recorded.

Session 4:

Session 5:

Session 6:

[/s2If]

Chat Transcript for Review Session 2

Click here for the video.
Note that if it doesn’t say who typed, then that’s me (Grisha).

6:39 AM
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Good morning!
6:47 AM
Good morning, Teressa!
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
I can hear you Grisha.
Thanks Teressa!
If any of you can’t hear me, be sure that your system volume is on and that the video itself is on, too. There’s a little volume button on the bottom right.
6:59 AM
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Chat is working today!!
Great!, glad to hear that Stephen. Thanks for your emails.
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Mornin’
Susan
Good morning!
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
Good morning! I was like… wait! why is the music stopping!!! GRRRR
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
hmmm I could hear until I joined chat -logging out to try again
Thanks Vanessa
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
What training / reading have the shelter folks done before this session?
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Shelter dogs often do not even know their name , was thisan assigned name ?
Caryl-Rose
Now I can comment! Switched away from Safari and that let me join with chat 🙂
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Wondered when watching on Wed if the crowd of people in the small room might be affecting her behavior. Perhaps fewer folks in the room or having some sit in in the chairs against the wall. Just to see if that might create a less distracting/confusing environment.
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Thank you. 🙂
Agreed, Wendy
Mike Prasse
Mike Prasse
Not sure where this Recall exercise fits into BAT. Dont remember reading about it in the 2.0 book?
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Good morning all
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Apparently I cannot chat and watch live at the same time, will try again
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Mike , my guess is relationship building , training for recall that might be used in a set up, and to get her moving
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
Jill I can see your comments. Good morning 😉
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Thanks for responding 🙂
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Dayna and Laura are finally here!
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Good morning all!
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
all training is thinking on the fly
Totally, Jennie!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Hi Dayna and Laura – what’s it like watching yourselves!?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Haha kind of cool!
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
My favorite part of watching is hearing how the plans change on the fly, and what is seen to advise those changes.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
That’s why it is anything but boring…
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Brian we are used to making changes all the time at the shelter, you can have plans for these dogs that you need to toss out the window quickly
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Fantastic facility you have there Dayna
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Wow thank you! We are very proud of all the improvements we’ve been able to make over the last few years.- Dayna
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
We have a great place for BAT set ups – if anyone is ever in PA come visit and practice!- Dayna
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Good morning everyone
Hi Dennis!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
How far away did you start with the helper dog? I couldn’t quite see on the raw session.
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Hi Grisha, I am a littel late. We just upgraded our internet..
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
OK, thank you.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Def at least 100 feet, maybe closer to 150 – Laura
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Thanks Laura.
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
testing – having internet issues 🙁
Hi Victoria
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
And as you can see there were lots of visual breaks too – Laura
Refreshing the browser can help
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Would you always start with the helper dog still or moving?
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Why do you make that choice to start with helper dog moving away? to create less pressure?
Caryl-Rose
Do we know any history on the shelter dog? And how long the dog has been in the shelter?
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
I try lateral or moving away so yes to avoid frontal pressure
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
I imagine a helper dog moving away is also less likely to have the 2 dogs look at each other – which seems more triggering to many dogs…???
correct
Caryl-Rose
Seeing a moving away dog butt tends to be the least confrontational for the client dog.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Let me pull up info on Sophie- one sec- Dayna!
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
TY everyone!
Dayna we can see your name when you type
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Sophie came from the Animal Care& Control Team in Philadelphia- a shelter that takes in 17,000 animals a year and has about an 80% life release rate
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Sophie came to us on 11/23/19. She was adopted briefly but growled at a child in the home so they quickly returned her.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
What was the child doing, do you know?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Sophie came to ACCT as a stray in early November
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Being a regular kid and waived a toy towards her while making some giggles/screams
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
As you saw earlier she’s got a little nervous tendency, we didn’t really see that before she got adopted. We’ve seen it a few times since she’s come back.
Halla Brandt Clausen
Halla Brandt Clausen
The team praised Sophie very much when she disengaged on her own. What’s your thoughts on that?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Familiar story – we adopted my second dog after fostering him and when he got to his ninth rehome and return! He is highly dog reactive and we have just started BAT with him.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
one comment,Stevie loosened the leash by walking towards the neutral dog. Ideally she would loosen it with her hands
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Knowing when to wait vs. move away is based on such subtle signals, and how well we know the dog. I’d like to hear your thoughts re: the ramifications of getting a ‘reaction’. If it sets us back, or if not that big of a deal.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
I should probaly have waited
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
I waited much longer today than I had been. He looked for quite a while, then sat down, then turned away. Need to make sure I give him enough time…
That’s a great comment, Dayna. Which means my coaching should be clearer on how to loosen the leash
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
me too, Brian
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
LOL credit goes to laura for that comment!
🙂
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
shes not we will tell her later 🙂
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
I just want to say, congrats on Stevie for being the handler knowing hundreds of people are analyzing every tiny movement you make 🙂 and, at the same time, what a fantastic opportunity you have! We are all benefiting from your bravery 😉
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Great comment and insight Vanesa!
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
I will make sure to tell her that- it is daunting! That’s so nice! – D
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
yes, Vanessa, so hard to remember to present it that way in the moment. Trying to get better on this with clients!
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Yes, good job Stevie, I am a beginner as well so thanks for stepping up
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
Yes! Thank you so much to this team for being brave and letting us all learn with you!
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
This is a win win for this dog and these teams..
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Love that.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Our pleasure:-) L
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Key to this whole series, for me, is to gain coaching skills to direct the humans without saying “no no no”. haha
Caryl-Rose
Sophie is doing a LOT of sniffing throughout the session. I know the area has been enriched. Wondering if some of this might be displacement behavior?
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Grisha, what would the affect of going over threshold accidentally during the set up have on the set up? Would you end it or start over?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Take a look at TAGteach Brian…
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
thank you Stephen, I will.
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Stevie is doing and amazing job, these skills do not happen overnight or even in a full night 🙂
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
Same comment as Caryl Rose
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
I think Im missing something – so was it the social pressure to the right side of Sophie that pushed her back to the left?
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
Hi I’ve just joined the chat, can you read me ?
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
hi Gwen, welcome!
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
Yes Guen 🙂
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
😉
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Jill , I move away , give the dog a break and I gauge whether it is worthy of trying again. It really is dog dependent .
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
thanks Jennie
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
ok Thank I thought the helper dog was ahead on the left behind the tree
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Since we cant see the helper dog on screen could you let us know where it is? TIA
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
victoria -on the other side of the fence that we see- I think lol
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
It really did !!
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Heck, if there was nothing to nit pick, we wouldn’t be learning nearly as much. haha
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
🙂 L
🙂
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
What is the best way to explain this to a client so they dont think your just walking around taking their money.
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
I.m relly amazed at how well this dog is doing on the leash, did they work on her leash skills prior to the sessions?
Susan
what did that mean to stay on the away side?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Dennis like Grisha said, no we didn’t practice!
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
She did great Dayna as you all did.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
because we enriched the environment, she took her time sniffing. Laura
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Sophie was born to BAT – D
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
yes she was Dayna..
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Can we talk a bit about how much / how to enrich the environment a bit more?
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Dayna…really encouraging to see her more interested in sniffing.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
She’s been in this space a few times so it’s not exactly new and exciting to her, I was so impressed with all her sniffs -D
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Grisha in the hood HAHA
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
I have placed out the helpers coat
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
cat pee 🙂
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
is it a balance of enriching, but not too enriching?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
we have both in plenty here Jennie- great ideas – D
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
I use finely grated parmesian cheese, our dog hair, pee rags froom or puppy classes
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
I remember my own lexi – she was a working dog -focus on me and I needed to teach her to look around . So agian dog dependent on the amt of enrichment
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
TY Jennie, good point
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Thank you. Very informative discussion re: enrichment. That helped me a lot.
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
anyone else just lose video?
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
I did, but refreshed the page a few times and it worked
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Yes, it froze, so had to refresh
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
yes Jill, I had to refresh
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
I did, refreshed and it came back
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Same here, refreshed.
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Good job!
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
whoot!
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
ok I’m back on thanks!
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
haha marissa appreciated that toy break more than sophie I think!- D
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
Thanks for that last comment Grisha! This session is awesome! I am learning a lot
🙂
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
What is the collar high up on Sophie’s neck–looks like there’s a disc on it and it’s in addition to her regular collar? I don’t remember seeing it last week.
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
I am really enjoying this session.
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
beautiful session
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
awesome today! I am so excited about being able to see this – thank you
Shelly Wood
Shelly Wood
This is fantastic! I’m learning a lot and seeing that I have a lot more to learn too!
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
My aha moment today…adjustment isn’t just for dog. Great teamwork, good response to coaching and all with Sophie’s best interest in mind. Well done!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Would you always start with the subject dog in the area and then bring the helper in?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Good question Sara- that disc is an add on, it has calming scents on it.
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Thank you. So many ‘professional’ videos edit out all the mistakes. I’m a big believer that we learn much more from seeing ‘learning opportunities’ and actively discussing them.
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Thanks Dayna! Great session 🙂
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
for sure Brian for sure
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Brian J Sweet you are so right about editing out those learning moments.
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Good to know about the student dog walking away first. I often do it the other way so the student dog sees the other dog leave
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Love your comment, Wendy Dahl
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
totally agree Brian! Laura
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
My question: when the helper stops because Sophie has stopped and is looking in the direction of the decoy, I’ve noticed that the helpers body orientation and shoulders are facing the helper dog… what’s your opinion on that ? the advice I usually give is body orientation should
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
So Sophie started at 150 ft, about how close did she end up?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
about 50 feet
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
*** be away from helper
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Brand is Calm Paws Calming Disc Dog Collar attachment
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
sorry I’m using worn word here, when I say helper I mean handler oooops
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
*wrong
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
50 ft Dayna – guess she wouldn’t have got that close before. Well done Sophie and the team!!
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Lost you guys, says live stream offline?
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
Hello, somehow it seems I don’t get audio?
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
still here, I have video and audio. Try to refresh maybe
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Absolutely Stephen- she is usually fixated at the very least, lunging and barking at worst, at that distance. HUGE day for Sophie!
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
ah now it works 🙂
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
thx 🙂
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
refreshed again and its better
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
Thanks Grisha for that answer
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
So I have a question- How do you implement this (BAT) in real life? Because a lot of the trainings success it seems hinges on management of the environment, but in ‘real life’ you cannot really do that.
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
My reality is that people will let their dogs run up to leashed dogs- they even come over large distances like half a soccer field- nothing you can do. And if you try to escape into the woods the hunters dog will folloow you (without his owner)
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
To support Grisha’s comment, handlers and instructors are not invisible so be mindful of your movement and positions, too, even when in break mode 🙂
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
thank you I will look the management up 😉
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Tanja Grisha talks about this more in this interview https://www.facebook.com/dogisgood/videos/602233137011093
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
TY Jennie helpful!
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
thx Jennie 🙂
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Thank you, Grisha!
Mike Prasse
Mike Prasse
When do we know to move from Set Ups to Real Life?
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
About how long would a set up be for a dog/handler just learning BAT?
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Exhausted!! -D
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
and humans too Dayna 🙂
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
she was pretty calm the rest of the day L
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
I think I just heard Grisha say she is capturing chat comments ? so we don’t hjave to copy and paste?
correct, lee. Never hurts to do it yourself though 🙂
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
I love how everyone is so relaxed and happy and Sophie is just soaking ecerything in 🙂
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Excellent tip, Laura!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Love the Helper Dog’s behavior, too!
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
🙂
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
anyone getting me in chat?
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
yes we read you Jill
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Yes Jill
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
@Jill yes
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Helper dog is cutie Silas: https://providenceac.org/pets/silas/
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Hi Jill! Yes, and “it depends on the dog” but a good mantra is “less is more” when it comes to time spent in the Set-Up
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
🙂 thanks
Wendy Dahl
Wendy Dahl
Thanks, Ellen. Always a great reminder for me.
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
A good tell when the Student Dog is done might be if the dog continues to move away.
Barbara Brabant
Barbara Brabant
This seems like a really long session for this dog. How long to your sessions typically last? Always ending on a good note.
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Next session – rinse repeat 🙂
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Thanks Grisha and everyone else here!
Dayna Villa
Dayna Villa
Bye all- thanks for all the support! Dayna & Laura 🙂
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
I’d like to see more focus on handler body position next time, as leash handling improves.
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Thanks Grisha! See you next week.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Thank you so much!
Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
Thanks so much.
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
bye everyone . <3
Tanja Corvus
Tanja Corvus
Bye 🙂
Gwen Courbé
Gwen Courbé
Thanks ! see you next week
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Nice Grisha!
Vanesa B Vizuete
Vanesa B Vizuete
This was awesome! Thanks everyone for your great questions and feedback!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Thank you!
Susan
Thank you!

PS the Mike Shikashio course is at http://grishastewart.com/aggression2020

Getting Started: Course Overview

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

To view the rest of the lessons, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

HOW TO FIND THE COURSE INFO

You can always find the main course page for the Aggression Consults with Mike Shikashio course by logging in and going to My Account.

This course is made up entirely of videos, which are live and then also available in recorded form.

The sessions will be on 2/20, 2/27, 3/12, and 3/26 at 7pm EST and will last approximately 60-90 minutes. You can watch them later, as well.

A link to the most current live video will be right near the top of your course page. Below that is a list of all sessions. Click on the date for the live session (or the recording if the date has passed).

Always be sure to log into the course. If you don’t log in, the course page will show purchase information and you won’t see the videos. If you see that, just log in and refresh the page.

VIEWING TIPS:

  1. You can change the playback speed on recorded videos by clicking the settings icon (a little gear) on the lower right side of the video and selecting faster or slower. That is also how you set the video resolution (set it lower if your internet connection is slow).
  2. Headphones give you the best audio quality.
  3. Volume control and screen resizing are on the video itself and on your device. If the screen freezes during a live broadcast, refresh your browser. If the live signal ever fails, please don’t worry. A recording will be available for each week of class.
  4. Click the link in the chat (for live) or in the actual video (for recorded) at the end of each video to add it to My Video History. This is important for CEUs or just your own record.
  5. Practice changing settings on the video below, including clicking the link at the end to add it to your history. This is Video 83 in our Member Video Library at the Student level.

Just for fun, here’s another video to test your settings. It’s an interview with Dr. Claudia Fugazza. If you’re a Pro Member, you get access to lots more of these kind of interviews in the Member Video Library.

RECORDING YOUR CEUS

If you are a CPDT and a Pro Member of my Animal Building Blocks Academy, please be sure to click Add to History at the end of the Review Session videos. Also be sure to include your CPDT number in your member profile. Then your CPDT CEUs will be reported automatically on April 1 or October 1, our reporting dates.

If you need CEUs for another organization with approved CEUs, your “My History” page will work be sufficient to use as evidence for you to report to those organizations.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

MORE SUPPORT

  • SOCIAL: You’re eligible to join the ABBA Facebook group, which is the group for students at GrishaStewart.com, including ABBA members and anyone who has taken a course.
    There is a special thread for this course, or you can also post and just tag Michael Shikashio to get his attention.
  • ABBA membership is annual and Pro ABBA members can earn CPDT CEUs by watching members-only videos.

We sent a welcome letter to new registrants by hand, so it may arrive a few days after you sign up. Please check your spam and let us know by email if you didn’t get a welcome letter. Click here for the letter sent on the first day of class.

[/s2If]

Live Course: Dog-Human Aggression Case Sessions with Michael Shikashio CDBC

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]
[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

This course has moved to my NEW SITE. Please click here to register there.

If you are already registered, please view this course on my new site. You have a login over there and will need to reset the password if you haven’t done so already.

[/s2If]Start Date: On-demand

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

Luke presents with excitement and sometimes growling/lunging at visitors. Click image his bio.
Mia shows fear-based aggression and nipping to a young family member. Click image her bio.

What YOU will be getting in this course

  • Access to the live remote sessions where Mike will be coaching the clients.
  • An opportunity to ask questions in a chat box. Mike will reply via live video in the Q&A  at the end of the lesson.
  • Streaming recordings of all consultation and coaching sessions to review any time you want.
  • 6 CEUs for CPDT, KPA, and IAABC, 2 for CCBC. We report for CCPDT directly, you can use the record in your Video History for other organizations. CCPDT reporting will happen when the course closes and then again April 1 and October 1.
  • Price is $85, with 20% off for ABBA Pro members. It’s a great value!

Join aggression expert Michael Shikashio CDBC as he works with TWO different cases live and remotely.

Mike will be coaching two clients with their own dogs who display aggressive behavior towards people in their home. This is a unique opportunity to see how Mike works an aggression case…all done remotely!

And you’ll get to see it all!

Here’s the case information for the two dogs:

  1. Mia
  2. Luke

We’ve got you covered! All live videos will be recorded and stay in your library to view at your own pace. This course will earn CEUs for Pro members who are CPDT trainers. Your Pro membership must be current on the reporting date of April 1 for us to report them.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]

Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!!

You are enrolled in this course. 

Please view this course on my new site.

You have a login over there and will need to reset the password if you haven’t done so already.  Use the same email you used to sign into this account. Thanks!

[/s2If]


About the Instructor

Michael Shikashio, CDBC, is the past president of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC), and provides private consultations working exclusively with dog aggression cases through his business AggressiveDog.com. Michael is fully certified through the IAABC, a Fear Free Certified Trainer, and is a full member of the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT).

Michael Shikashio, CDBC

He is sought after for his expert opinion by numerous media outlets, including the New York Times, New York Post, Baltimore Sun, WebMD, Women’s Health Magazine, Real Simple Magazine, SiriusXM Radio, The Chronicle of the Dog, and Steve Dale’s Pet World.

Michael is a featured speaker at conferences, universities, and seminars around the world, and offers a variety of workshops, webinars, and online courses on the topic of canine aggression, including the Aggression in Dogs Master Course.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_009_ms)]Here are the list of posts in this course, which will eventually include the live and recorded videos. The links don’t work unless you’re logged in and registered for the course.

[catlist id=95 orderby=name order=asc]


[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have taken a class with us before, log in first, otherwise you’ll get an error when the site tries to make a new account with your user name.

This course has moved to my NEW SITE. Please click here to register there.

[/s2If]

Chat Transcript for Review Session 1

Click here for the video.
Note that if it doesn’t say who typed, then that’s me (Grisha).

Hi is chat working?

Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
Hi Grisha, yes, it’s working.
thanks
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
Yes!
Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
Yes, loud and clear, thank you.
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
I hear you
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Good Morning everyone
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
a huge snowstorm here – the city has delacred a state of emergency . so I get to watch this live!!!
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Good morning, I hear you
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
testing one 2 3
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Hello CBATIs!!! So great to see you here
Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
Yes, the audio from the “Raw” is working.
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
My tail is wagging. 🙂
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
audio issue
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
audio is not working here – it was and now appears to be stuck
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Audio is wonky
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Audio issue: you sound as if you are in space. 🙂
Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
oooh…. a long mechanical noise now… not good 🙁
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
yes!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
whew
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
can anyone see my messages HELLO
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
good now – hello, Dennis
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
u fixed it
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
audio is great. 🙂
Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
It’s cleared up now here…
Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
I can hear your train! 🙂
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Thanks Kim..
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
hi dennis
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
I can’t hear anyting
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
yes thanks for fixing
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Hi Jeannie
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Good morning!
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
space blasters are back
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
anyone else with audio issues or just me?
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
fixed
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Audio is good for me
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
I cannto hear anyting or swee anything
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
good here
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Here sound is good.
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
fixed
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Kim I had it as well …weird noise . I unplugged my own mic . Not sure if that was it but my audio is fine now
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Kim, hit refresh
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
audio fine here
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Dennis, just left of the setting cog, you can increase volume with the bars
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
thanks Ellen – hit refresh and seems good
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Finally got it…
Thanks Jennie!
And also note there’s a mute button at the top
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
how is she with people?
I’ll be fixing the screen next time so text and video is side by side
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
any reactivity with staff or others?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
no mic here and the weird noise went away at the same time others mentioned.
No reactivity with staff
7:15 AM
all ok with chat?
Lisa Anne
Lisa Anne
I finally got on after technical difficulties.
Halla Brandt Clausen
Halla Brandt Clausen
I thought that the charging the clicker went rather fast for a dog who’s not used to it. Was that to speed things up or the speed you’ll use
Amy Tanna
Amy Tanna
Do you know if they did any formal temperament testing to determine reactivity, threshold, sociability, etc.?
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
is there a cue word that can be sub’ed for clicker if necessary?
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Amy, you can use YES as another marker
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
I use EX for EXcellent. 🙂 Sharp and exclusive word.
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
nice tip, Suzanne
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
thanks!
Mike Prasse
Mike Prasse
It appears you use a Look at That protocol first to charge the clicker, then go to Mark and Move?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Yay, I’m here!
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Is there a reason for floor treating here?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
I was tossing the treat on the floor because we wanted her to touch and move away and I wasn’t holding the dog
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
helps to reduce working mode
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
or prevent
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Yes!
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Ah yes, was not seeing that with all applications so wondered if it was tied to the do following.
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
awesome job Laura !
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Sophie is a DOLL
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Thanks Jennie!
She is so cute!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
She is:-)
7:35 AM
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
I appreciated the second helper feeding while she sat and had the leash attached. It happened several times during the session. Well done
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
I’ve had difficulty with mountain bikers that all of sudden emerge when we are hiking and Pepp wants to charge because she is scared.
Amy Guyton
Amy Guyton
she is very keen to other cues – but this one is a biggie and a barrier that I can’t seem to get past.
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
toy brain 🙂
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
It is helpful to see you teach the session via video, Grisha. I have a bunch of clients who live in CA (I’m in WA) and I do video sessions
Mike Prasse
Mike Prasse
You said to “click for engagement then click for disengagement”, so click when looks at trigger and click again when does a Look Away?
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
What do you do with stress-signs, like lots of mouth-licking (just then) and fiddle-about. How do you look at that in this setting?
Sorry I meant click for engagement for a while and then after a time shift into clicking for disengagement instead
Thanks Claire!
For stress signs, in a shelter environment there will pretty much always be some. Taking a break is one thing we can do, also breathing!
Relaxing our own breathing is helpful
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
ahh sweet chill boy 🙂 <3
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Sound absorbers on the walls of the kennel
Good one claire!
Amy Tanna
Amy Tanna
Kennel enrichment! Food puzzles, DAP, scent enrichment etc. to reduce overall stress
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
visual barriers on the others dogs cages
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Laura, did I understand it right that your walls are somewhat sound-absorbing as well?
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Yes, DAP, through a dogs ear, blinds with sheets
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
O, Claire is tipping that as well. 🙂
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Amy, they do lots of food puzzles, DAP collars and scent enrichment
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
We have acoustical panels
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
practice the management pieces like treat magnet outside of the real event (i.e. no triggers present) and create some muscle memory
Amy Tanna
Amy Tanna
Laura that’s fabulous 🙂 It looks like such a great shelter <3
Cindy Ehlers, CPDT-KA
Cindy Ehlers, CPDT-KA
volunteer to sit in kennel with dog. Create pleasant associations with triggers if possible?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
volunteers have also worked on clicking for quiet as a dog passes by
And note that these ideas are not just for this shelter, but for anybody attending the course. So it’s fine to suggest something they…
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Is it just the visual as she walks by or the act of walking by knowing there are dogs in there
already have in place at Providence
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
They are a terrific group!
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Barb (HI xoxo) she may know there are dogs yet when we take away the visual it always helps …reduces stress some but ya she would know the
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
*there
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
Wow it’s 8 degrees here where are they
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
“volunteers have also worked on clicking for quiet as a dog passes by”. How did this work, Laura? Are the dogs more quiet overall?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Media, PA, we lucked out, it was a beautiful day
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
tech question (new at this) do I have to sign in somewhere special to have name by comments? I signed in to chat via vimeo/FB …
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
yes, Director of Operations
Amy Tanna
Amy Tanna
We have corresponding outdoor kennels completely separate from the indoor, so we have to be cognizant of dog neighbors both inside/outside
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Lee Morrow I see your name
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Lee, we see your name. But it does not show to you. Same here.
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Thanks Jennie, Hi xo
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Thanks Brian!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Suzanne, ideally it would happen daily because the dogs change, so it helps but would help more if done everyday
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Yes, I understand.
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
I thought that Pet Tutors hung above would help so that person passing with dog can use remote
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
love the pet tutors and SDHS has them installed in their behavior center
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
hang bowls of treats if no budget for Pet Tutors
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
is there any way to capture chat comments, I understand not avail later. but a way perhaps to catch it on our own?
I am copy/pasting them into a text file for myself. Right now that’s the only way I know
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Wow that would be great, the Pet Tutors. You could also hang them outside if you want the dogs to really move away from the passage.
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
is the fence line to the left actually shared with the homes there? if so, are there dogs in the home yards to be aware of?
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Thanks Grisha
Exactly, Suzanne. And they’re quiet
Great question, Kim! We didn’t answer that in the session. Laura?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Inexpensive quick fix may be solid shower curtains on curtain rods. On outside of gate. easy to clean
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Kim, good question, it is shared with the houses but I’ve never seen dogs right at the fence. There is one dog who sits on the porch and
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
he barks since the porch is high enough he can see over
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
but I haven’t seen him in a long time
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
thanks, laura!
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Would love to have the chat file from you Grisha.
8:01 AM
Dennis Fehling
Dennis Fehling
our internet is really bad here so i cannot watch this today. Hopefulyl we get to see the recording, have a great day everyone
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Thanks for joining us while you could, Dennis
Lisa Anne
Lisa Anne
What do you do with more energetic dogs who are always at the end of their leashes?
Thanks for trying, Dennis!
The recording should be up a few hours after
Teressa that’s a good idea, I’ll post it
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
lisa place items in the area like scented objects, food scatters. Grisha will talk about this
Lisa – what Jennie said. Also exercising first, smaller training area, reinforcement for attention to you.
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Doing a training session, where the dog has to think a lot as well as puzzles before the setup can help as well
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
shake off could be from the excitement of the toy as well?
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
I know you recommmend a specific harness, which I think I see Sophie wearing. Would any back clip dog harness work?
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Like clipping to the back ring of the wonder walker?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
that’s super interesting!!
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
did the live stream stop for anyone else?
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
still good here
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
YES! And BAT is all about movement.
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
refresh 🙂
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Claire, I have same Q, thanks for asking!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
One question about having Sophie go with the Dog Trotters…if she over reacts when she sees a dog it might be challenging
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
so any tips for that?
Do the dog trotters go as a group
?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
I don’t think so
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
have had many clients that can run with their dog/dog reactive dogs and dog is not reactive. think that it could often be that the dog
I’m visualizing the runner just taking laps around that field you showed us
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
They could do that. The Trotters go off property, but maybe we could do laps on property with her
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
is more comfortable moving away from triggers at a faster pace but also think the “runners high” may play a role
with cones guarding the area so she doesn’t have to see any other dogs. someone
or someone from the team
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
kim I too have a client who is a runner and the dog does not react. I have watched and she is in the zone of contentment!
I think it’s both, Kim. How cool is neuroscience!?
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
I know you recommmend a specific harness, which I think I see Sophie wearing. Would any back clip dog harness work?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Running as a Naturally Occurring Reinforcer. 🙂
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Like the back ring of a wonder walker?
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
love the neuroscience understanding we are gaining!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Claire, the Balance harness is nice because the shoulders are free
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
not for me Ellen lol
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
lol
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Ugh, Grisha is going to make me job
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
jog
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
love running as an NOR – but like jennie says, depends on the learner!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Running or not running, just keep in mind the Antecedent Arrangement as Grisha’s recommending
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
yep:-)
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Are there other harnesses (like available on Amazon) that would work? (Mainly for clients for ease of ordering?)
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
I wonder if we could use that with sheets for her safe space?
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
Balance is available on Amazon
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
if the leash touches my cattle dog he moves away from it or even walks sideways.
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
live stream off line it says…
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Oooohh, good call.
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
On the small businesses
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz

Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
thanks Kim
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
victoria hit refresh
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
Link to Amazon but I try to encourage my clients to get direct from Blue-9 to support them!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Love the trainer focusing on the dog “eyes on dog”
Cindy Ehlers, CPDT-KA
Cindy Ehlers, CPDT-KA
I use the Balance harness and also the TTouch Harmony Harness
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
tossing a treat and letting the leash go caused the leash to go on the ground so we had Carolyn have a treat in her hand
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
She would drop leash in one hand when she went to get a treat
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
TY for harness tips.
Refresh your browser if livescreen offline appears
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Victoria, I’ve had dogs that are very sensitive to leash contact. I have to work on that sensory separate from training.
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
Barbara, thanks, good to be aware of that. I usually work with pitties… so not so aware
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
do you not like the freedom harness anymore?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
She took a nice long nap after this
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
i love the perfect fit, my dogs bodies did not work with other’s I’ve tried. Each piece of the 3 part system is body specific.
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
I’m reconsidering it due to the martingale feature on the back; i’ve seen dogs do better without that additional pressure
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
ty – i am so glad I had the chance to join the live version today. xoxo
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Barbara, thank you for that any suggestion where to start?
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Some dogs benefit from movement, but others from sniffing, right? before a session?
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
Thank you!
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
Thank you.
Teressa Hill
Teressa Hill
Thank you Grisha!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
will we start inside next week?
Sara Marshall
Sara Marshall
Thanks, Grisha! Have a good day, everybody 🙂
Joanne Heywood
Joanne Heywood
Thank you.
Victoria Gideon-Photography
Victoria Gideon-Photography
this was wonderful. Thank you so much
Lee Morrow
Lee Morrow
TY – really enjoying this. All the ideas.
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Such a great experience today, thank you!
jennie murphy
jennie murphy
Suzanne -yes imo that would be dog dependent
Nienke
Nienke
Thank you. Wishing you all a great day. Here it’s bed-time. 🙂
Barbara Sperling
Barbara Sperling
Loved it, thanks!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
ok:-)
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
laura, what about weather in Media?
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
Do you guys work outside in rain/snow/cold?
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
fingers crossed we get another good weather day!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
might have snow on the ground
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
for this we will
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
For BAT in the city, does it make sense to start with the wonder walker and then move to balance?
Kim Yuskiewicz
Kim Yuskiewicz
stay warm!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
thanks Kim!
Granie Dani
Granie Dani
well done!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
we do have a couple indoor training spaces at Providence
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Mainly to reduce pulling first – I know it goes against BAT 2.0, but in the city… you know.
Suzanne Huijs
Suzanne Huijs
Thanks! 🙂
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Ahhh, thanks Grisha!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
Grisha has a video of Bean walking in NYC on a long line
Cindy Ehlers, CPDT-KA
Cindy Ehlers, CPDT-KA
Thank you!
Amy Tanna
Amy Tanna
Laura, just curious – do you know if Shelter staff temperament tested Sophie for threshold and sociability at any point?
Claire Anderson
Claire Anderson
Great, thank you so much!
Laura Harrington
Laura Harrington
they evaluate all the dogs. It turned out that Sophie was not feeling well when she first came in, then as she felt better behaviors showed
Amy Tanna
Amy Tanna
Thanks!

Session 6 Review: Parallel Play, Zig-Zag Mark & Move

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

Chat Transcript will be available soon. You can also request one by email.

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE[/s2If]


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

Session 6 Raw: Parallel Play, Zig-Zag Mark & Move

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]
This is a Raw Session, which is unedited footage of the training session. Please see the Review Sessions for commentary.

 

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

Chat Transcript:

If it doesn’t say who typed the comment, then it was me (Grisha). I posted the first comment

Good morning!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Hi Grisha – last session 🙁
yup!
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
a bit of a hum, but no echo
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
loud and clear
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Good morning
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Good morning!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Hey Jill! Can’t wait to see you in NJ in late April
Dana Funk
Morning!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Can we get Sophie updates afterwards?
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
I have a question about BAT walks, my little terrier loves them and is doing really great, but the freedom part has led to a lot of chasing little lizards and bugs (they’re everywhere in FL), is that something that I should be doing a slide or mime pulling on, or is it ok to allo
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
allow?
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Yes I am super excited about it! I am thinking of signing my daughter up as well, she is also a trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
OH? Yes! Our course is designed for teams to work together so that might be extra cool if with your daughter
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
What are your favorite impulse control games to play at home which can translate to helping in a BAT session?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Laura is echoing
Susan
Laura audio not working well – echo
Dana Funk
wifi vs 3G
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Grisha might comment, but my two cents on chasing the lizards, etc., yes, a slide is super helpful and a mime pull if they’re super focused. You could also add a cue like “with me” and train that with marker/food so he knows it’s time to move along with you. hang on, it won’t let
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Appreciate it varies greatly from one dog to another, but do you have stats on number of sessions vs progress? Would you just keep going say after 10 or more?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Big question for you is “when does he do it” IF the chasing is happening as a displacement behavior, then that’s information that the environ might be too hard and chasing lizards makes it easier to be there, so think about that.
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
See if there’s a pattern chasing the lizards. We can also talk PM about it so I don’t take up all this chat room lol
Dana Funk
yay
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
That’s better!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Hi Stephen, until Grisha can comment, you are right, “depends on the dog” but all BAT Dogs will always benefit from BAT anytime they are on a lead; it just never stops as a way of life.
Dana Funk
yes.
Susan
yes!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Ellen – thanks. What I meant was if you are doing formal sessions, would you just keep on with them until target distance reached?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Re # of Set-Ups, always hard to give a solid number on that. We look at a reduction of behavior, and patterns meaning after a while doing BAT, one will be able to read the dog’s behavior and the try to align that with the owners’ agenda lol
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Stephan, argggg! I hit a button and lost my response. We can PM if you’d like since the class is starting. I do have more info for you. 🙂
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Ellen – understood, thank you. So may take many more than 10 say and sometimes there will be setbacks. I will pick this up on Friday so i am not distracting people!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Why is it called box breathing?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Will be on Messenger afterwards Ellen…
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Stephen, we’ll chat further!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
does she know that cue?
7:31 AM
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Love your idea of the “all done cue.” After this exercise would it be a good time to do it?
7:37 AM
can you still hear?
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Yes
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Good! I like the distance in which to start and just mark from there
7:45 AM
Dani Office
Dani Office
?
🙂
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Nice, Laura! Yes I totally think that’s a lot of Sophie’s human interaction is to just check-in vs hang out. Which for BAT Set-Ups (vs M&M) is what we should see – checking in and back to moving about
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
not really vs M&M, I miswrote that. But less human directed
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
There is something moving in the breeze on the table there…
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Have the humans move further away
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Can they go further back instead of standing closer to the fence line?
8:00 AM
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
YES!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
lol
8:07 AM
Brian J. Sweet
Brian J. Sweet
thank you
8:12 AM
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
What are your high value treats?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Dana’s leash skills have really blossomed
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Yes and but it was less!
8:22 AM
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
sigh.
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
I would def take a break in the car and see what she’s doing in there. I have a feeling she’s done
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
I agree that we saw a reduction in arousal even in a variety of contexts, an increase in check-ins, a reduction in the time it took for her to re engage with the eviron
8:30 AM
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Brilliant team, thank you!
Jacqueline Moreno
Jacqueline Moreno
Yes! Deepest thanks to Team & New guardians
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
For the team: what did you learn about Sophie that you didn’t know before the course?
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Recognizing environments and body language, too!
8:40 AM
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Yes, Dana… the fact that you guys stepped onto a stage like this is incredible.
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
It has been fantastci. We will really miss you guys!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Need Sophie updates…
Jill Wattles
Jill Wattles
Thank you to all of you at the shelter for participating, I have really learned a lot!
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
And if any shelter folks would like to attend an upcoming BAT Cert Course, please contact me and we can work something out
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Ellen The Dog Trainer
Good work, team!
Stephen Bell
Stephen Bell
Bye everyone!
Dana Funk
Thanks everyone!
Also don’t forget Michael’s course starts tomorrow: http://grishastewart.com/aggression2020

[/s2If]

Session 5 Review: BAT Set-up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!
Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course

 

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE[/s2If]


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

Session 5 Raw: BAT Set-up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]
This is a Raw Session, which is unedited footage of the training session. Please see the Review Sessions for commentary.

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

[/s2If]

Session 4 Review: BAT Set-up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!

Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE[/s2If]


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

Session 4 Raw: BAT Set-up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]
This is a Raw Session, which is unedited footage of the training session. Please see the Review Sessions for commentary.

 

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

[/s2If]

Session 3 Review: BAT Set-up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!
Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course


RETURN TO COURSE PAGE[/s2If]


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

Session 3 Raw: BAT Set-up (Sophie Adopted!)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]
This is a Raw Session, which is unedited footage of the training session. Please see the Review Sessions for commentary.

In this session, I found out a few minutes before the session that Sophie had been adopted. Change of plans! This was a hard session, with plenty of room for improvement, so definitely watch the Review Session for ideas.

NOTE: The stream cut out halfway through but I was able to put in lower quality footage for the second half on the video below.

 

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

[/s2If]

Gift Registration: 1 Prepaid Code for the BAT Practice Class

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level3)]Thanks for being here, but this page is only for Pro members. Please log into your account and refresh this page to access it. If you don’t have a Pro account, you can learn about memberships  here.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level3)][_s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh_bulk)]As a Pro member of ABBA, you’re eligible to buy bulk registration codes for the BAT Practice class!

You can use this form to buy one gift registration for $85.

Or instead of the regular price of $85 each, you register THREE or FIVE people for just $60 per person. If you have more than 5 people to register or are interested in bulk codes for a different course, please contact us.

After you complete your purchase, you’ll see a code that you can share with whoever you want to register for the class. It’s a pre-paid code, so they won’t need to enter any payment information.

[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”course_008_sh_bulk” desc=”Gift Registration Code for ShelterBAT course – $85 – nonrefundable” ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”85″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]
[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh_bulk)]Here are your codes! Please copy/paste the code and link to the special registration page for each person.

Codes can only be used once, so give each person a different code. The purchaser (you) can also use one of these code to register for the course on this account, if you haven’t already done so. If you need to buy more codes, please contact us.
[s2Member-Gift-Codes discount=”100%” quantity=”1″ directive=”ra-only” singulars=”23771″ one_click=”shelterbat-coupon”/][/s2If]

3 Bulk Registration Codes for the BAT Practice Class

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level3)]Thanks for being here, but this page is only for Pro members. Please log into your account and refresh this page to access it. If you don’t have a Pro account, you can learn about memberships  here.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level3)][_s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh_bulk)]As a Pro member of ABBA, you’re eligible to buy bulk registration codes for the BAT Practice class!

Instead of the regular price of $85 each, you register three people for just $60 per person. To buy 5 codes, click here. You can buy one gift code for $85 here. If you have more people to register or are interested in bulk codes for a different course, please contact us.

After you complete your purchase, you’ll see a list of codes that you can share with whoever you want to register for the class. It’s a pre-paid code, so they won’t need to enter any payment information.

If you haven’t registered for the course yet with the account you’re logged in as, then you will be able to use one of the codes to register also.

[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”course_008_sh_bulk” desc=”3 Registration Codes for ShelterBAT course – $180 – nonrefundable” ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”180″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]
[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh_bulk)]Here are your codes! Please copy/paste the code and link for each person that you want to register for the course. Codes can only be used once, so give each person a different code. The purchaser (you) can also use one of these code to register for the course on this account, if you haven’t already done so. If you need to buy more codes, please contact us.
[s2Member-Gift-Codes discount=”100%” quantity=”3″ directive=”ra-only” singulars=”23771″ one_click=”shelterbat-coupon”/][/s2If]

Session 2 Review: BAT Set-up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE[/s2If]


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

Session 1 Review: Intro, Leash Skills, Meeting the Dog

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

This is the first Review session, where we went over the first training done in Raw Session 1.[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

Click for Chat Window Transcript from students in the live course

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE

[/s2If]


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

Session 0 Raw: Leash Skills Pretraining

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]This is the first session, where I started going over the leash skills with the shelter team. We were also testing technology and in this session.

Click the link at the end of each video in the course to add it to your Video History.[/s2If]

TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

BAT Set-Ups Live Practice Course – Page to Register with a Code

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]You are registered for this course. Please click here to see the course info.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)] [_s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you are already a member or have made a purchase at ABBA before, please first log in with the user info you created (or the form below will try to make you a new account and have an error).

If you have already registered, log in and go to My Account.

The full price is $85. If you have a redemption code, please enter it below.[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”1″ ccaps=”course_008_sh” desc=”BAT Practice January 2020″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ta=”0″ tp=”0″ tt=”D” ra=”85″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” rrt=”” rra=”2″ accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”1″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][_s2If is_user_logged_in()]The full price is $85. If you have a redemption code, please enter it below.[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”course_008_sh” desc=”BAT Practice Course Jan 2020 ” ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”85″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”1″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]

Session 2 Raw: BAT Set-up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]
This is a Raw Session, which is unedited footage of the training session. Raw Sessions are a bonus for the course. Please see the Review Sessions for commentary.

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

[/s2If]

Session 1 Raw: Intro, Leash Skills, Meeting the Dog

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

To view this video, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]
This is a Raw Session, which is unedited footage of the training session. Please see the Review Sessions for commentary.

 

RETURN TO COURSE PAGE


TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

  • Muting and volume control are on the video player above and you also have a master volume on your device. Headphones give you the best audio.
  • Changing playback speed lets you watch and listen more efficiently. You can also slow it down if you need more time to process.
  • If the screen freezes or goes black, refresh your browser.
  • If you don’t see a video above, your browser settings may be too strict. You can change your settings or use a different browser.
  • Email us if you still have trouble.

CEUS:

  • The Review Session videos qualify for 9 CCPDT CEUs.  Raw Session videos do not count toward CEUs but can still be added to your library for your own record.
  • We will report CCPDT CEUs if you have have an active personal Professional membership (not a shelter membership) at the reporting date for CEUs. Reporting dates are April 1 and October 1 annually.
  • You must have the entire series of 6 videos in your course history to qualify for CPDT CEU reporting.
  • Please click the link at the end of the video to add to your history.
  • Read this note on CEUs for this site, including how to enter your CCPDT number.
  • If you are certified by another organization, your video history may serve as a way for you to apply for CEUs.

[/s2If]

Evolution of BAT 2.0 (1.5 Hours)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_041_batevolution)][PHP]buyNowButton(“webinar_041_batevolution”)[/PHP][/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_041_batevolution)]

Thank you for your registration!

Important Information:

  • Sound is a little echoey for the first half, but gets better. Thanks for your patience.
  • Slide Notes. This PDF is only for your own use; please do not share. This is a good document to download to write your notes on.
  • The How to Human course that I mention at the end of this video is an online course for our own thrival and joy life skills.

[/s2If][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this presentation or anything else from my site, please log in with the user info you created. [/s2If]

The BAT technique for dog aggression, fear, and frustration has changed quite a bit in the decade since I developed it. For 90 minutes, I’ll take you on a tour of the development of BAT, from the initial inspirations of BAT 1.0 in 2009 up through the present moment, including the moments I cringe about now and some new ways to look at BAT.

Dr. Susan Friedman sums up BAT well in this review of Grisha Stewart’s BAT 2.0 book:

“When I ask behavior professionals, ‘What are your eyes for?’ they reply enthusiastically, ‘To see!’ But when I ask, ‘What is your behavior for?’ conference rooms fall silent. In BAT 2, Stewart provides the essential answer to this all-important question: Behavior is to have an effect, that is, to be effective. By safely allowing dogs more control over their own outcomes, especially in challenging conditions where fearful, frustrated and aggressive behavior is most likely, caregivers will be more successful shaping independent, competent, confident companions.” 

This session begins with a brief overview of BAT 2.0 for those who are not yet familiar with the technique. In the second part of the session, Grisha will go through older video footage and explore the inspirations behind the many improvements she’s made to the BAT technique along the way.

Why try BAT 2.0?

  • BAT creates scenarios that increase learner control, build confidence, and reduce arousal. An animal that has greater control of its environment (i.e. behavior is effective) is less likely to show “reactivity” – extreme distance-increasing or distance-decreasing behavior.
  • BAT builds communication and trust. When the communication channel is clear and accurate, the relationship between the dog and caregiver may then develop greater trust. BAT teaches people how to better understand a dog’s body language, most especially before, during, and after the dog calmly experiences a trigger.  The goal is to empower the animal and handler to remain active in the calm, stress-free behavior vs. becoming reactive in the undesirable behavior.
  • BAT reduces stress. In a properly executed BAT training session, the animal exhibits little to no distress during the BAT experience. The absence of distress is a critical component to BAT and is an improvement over other techniques.
  • BAT has a fast learning curve. BAT works with an animal’s natural repertoire of desirable behaviors, and doesn’t require much pre-training for the human to begin the rehabilitation process for both them and their dog.

ABOUT GRISHA:

Grisha and Bean, Photo by Kaden Weaver

Grisha Stewart is an author, international speaker, and dog trainer who specializes in dog reactivity. She founded Empowered Animals and the online Animal Building Blocks Academy in Alaska and Ahimsa Dog Training in Seattle, which has earned many awards, including Best of Western Washington.

“Ahimsa” is a Buddhist doctrine of nonviolence to all living things, which reflects Grisha’s focus on force-free methods to promote the well-being of dogs and their humans.

More info about Grisha: http://grishastewart.com/grisha

About This Online Seminar Recording:

  • Recorded live December 12, 2019
  • Sound is a little echoey for the first half, but gets better
  • Stream on your computer or mobile device (not a download or a physical DVD)
  • Run time: 1 hr 32 mins
  • CEUs are available to ABBA Pro members (click Add to History at the end of viewing).

[php]

$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “webinar_041_batevolution”;
$desc = “Evolution of BAT webinar recording”;
$price = “29”;
$productType = “webinars”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]Webinars

[PHP] // ****** GRISHA: ADD CEU LINK TO THIS PAGE, NOT JUST VIMEO – DO IT ON THE DATE OF THE SEMINAR. For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/PHP]

Evolution of BAT 2.0 (1.5 Hours)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_041_batevolution)][PHP]buyNowButton(“webinar_041_batevolution”)[/PHP][/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_041_batevolution)]

Thank you for your registration!

Important Information:

  • Sound is a little echoey for the first half, but gets better. Thanks for your patience.
  • Slide Notes. This PDF is only for your own use; please do not share. This is a good document to download to write your notes on.
  • The How to Human course that I mention at the end of this video is an online course for our own thrival and joy life skills.

[/s2If][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this presentation or anything else from my site, please log in with the user info you created. [/s2If]

The BAT technique for dog aggression, fear, and frustration has changed quite a bit in the decade since I developed it. For 90 minutes, I’ll take you on a tour of the development of BAT, from the initial inspirations of BAT 1.0 in 2009 up through the present moment, including the moments I cringe about now and some new ways to look at BAT.

Dr. Susan Friedman sums up BAT well in this review of Grisha Stewart’s BAT 2.0 book:

“When I ask behavior professionals, ‘What are your eyes for?’ they reply enthusiastically, ‘To see!’ But when I ask, ‘What is your behavior for?’ conference rooms fall silent. In BAT 2, Stewart provides the essential answer to this all-important question: Behavior is to have an effect, that is, to be effective. By safely allowing dogs more control over their own outcomes, especially in challenging conditions where fearful, frustrated and aggressive behavior is most likely, caregivers will be more successful shaping independent, competent, confident companions.” 

This session begins with a brief overview of BAT 2.0 for those who are not yet familiar with the technique. In the second part of the session, Grisha will go through older video footage and explore the inspirations behind the many improvements she’s made to the BAT technique along the way.

Why try BAT 2.0?

  • BAT creates scenarios that increase learner control, build confidence, and reduce arousal. An animal that has greater control of its environment (i.e. behavior is effective) is less likely to show “reactivity” – extreme distance-increasing or distance-decreasing behavior.
  • BAT builds communication and trust. When the communication channel is clear and accurate, the relationship between the dog and caregiver may then develop greater trust. BAT teaches people how to better understand a dog’s body language, most especially before, during, and after the dog calmly experiences a trigger.  The goal is to empower the animal and handler to remain active in the calm, stress-free behavior vs. becoming reactive in the undesirable behavior.
  • BAT reduces stress. In a properly executed BAT training session, the animal exhibits little to no distress during the BAT experience. The absence of distress is a critical component to BAT and is an improvement over other techniques.
  • BAT has a fast learning curve. BAT works with an animal’s natural repertoire of desirable behaviors, and doesn’t require much pre-training for the human to begin the rehabilitation process for both them and their dog.

ABOUT GRISHA:

Grisha and Bean, Photo by Kaden Weaver

Grisha Stewart is an author, international speaker, and dog trainer who specializes in reactivity and socialization. She founded Empowered Animals and the Animal Building Blocks Academy online and Ahimsa Dog Training in Seattle, which has earned many awards, including Best of Western Washington.

“Ahimsa” is a Buddhist doctrine of nonviolence to all living things, which reflects Grisha’s focus on force-free methods to promote the well-being of dogs and their humans.

Grisha developed the Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) method to help dogs gain confidence and social skills. BAT is an organic training philosophy that empowers learners to feel safe.

More info about Grisha: http://grishastewart.com/grisha

About This Online Seminar Recording:

  • Recorded live December 12, 2019
  • Sound is a little echoey for the first half, but gets better
  • Stream on your computer or mobile device (not a download or a physical DVD)
  • Run time: 1 hr 32 mins
  • CEUs are available to ABBA Pro members (click Add to History at the end of viewing).

[php]

$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “webinar_041_batevolution”;
$desc = “Evolution of BAT webinar recording”;
$price = “29”;
$productType = “webinars”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]Webinars

[PHP] // ****** GRISHA: ADD CEU LINK TO THIS PAGE, NOT JUST VIMEO – DO IT ON THE DATE OF THE SEMINAR. For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/PHP]

[PHP]// ******buyNowButton(“webinar_041_batevolution”)[/PHP]

BAT Set-Ups Practice Course: Shelter Dog Sessions

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]
Start Date: On-demand

This is an archived of a live course, so all lessons are on-demand and you can go at your own pace.[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

This course has moved to my NEW SITE. Please click here to register there.

If you are already registered, please view this course on my new site. You have a login over there and will need to reset the password if you haven’t done so already.

BAT Set-Ups Practice Course: Main topics

  • How to coach clients to use BAT for dog aggression, frustration, and fear, including the BAT leash skills.
  • How to choose a training location to do BAT.
  • How to choose and change the environment to promote exploration and safety.
  • How to manage training set-ups in real-time, to maximize learning and minimize stress.
  • Shelter-specific advice for dog reactivity.
  • This course is made up entirely of videos, which were live and are now available in recorded form.
This is the dog we worked with in the course. She is an intense dog, with a combination of frustration and aggressive behavior toward other dogs.

In this innovative course, BAT developer Grisha Stewart coached an animal shelter team doing live BAT set-ups and other techniques for dog reactivity.

Grisha was live on video chat with a team at Providence Animal Center in Pennsylvania, with the help of Certified BAT Instructor Laura Harrington. Laura was on-site for hands-on instruction and training set-up management.

Following the training session, Grisha then went over the sessions in an additional live video.

All raw and review sessions were recorded for you to see!

The dog in this course was adopted partway through, so Grisha also worked with the new family. The dog was a spayed female bully X with overarousal, frustration, and aggression issues toward other dogs.

All live videos were recorded and stay in your library to view at your own pace. Viewing all Review Sessions in this course will earn CEUs for Pro members who are CPDT trainers. Your Pro membership must be current on the reporting date of April 1 or October 1.

Prerequisite

Some understanding of Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT 2.0) is required.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]

Welcome [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]!!

You are enrolled in this course. 

Please view this course on my new site.

You have a login over there and will need to reset the password if you haven’t done so already.  Use the same email you used to sign into this account. Thanks!

[/s2If]

What is the Format of This Course?

The shelter team met for 6 sessions, and you get to see them all, in raw format and reviewed again with Grisha:

  • Pretraining:
    • The shelter team watched the Empowered Animals BAT 2.0 series (not included with this course).
    • The team met with Grisha to work some on leash skills and test technology.
  • Session 1 is a Q&A from the videos, a brief history of the dog, and practice with BAT leash skills, as well as going over the features of the training area(s).
  • Sessions 2-6 focus on training set-ups, with BAT and whatever else seems appropriate at the time.

BATlogo-colorWhat YOU will be getting in this course:

  • There are two videos per training session:
    • Raw Sessions, in which Grisha coached the team remotely, and
    • Review Sessions in which Grisha went over the video with live course students and some members of the shelter team.
  • Review Sessions: These are the main course content.
  • Chat Transcripts: Live attendees asked questions during the Review Sessions using a chat window. This text is included in the course materials.
  • Raw Sessions: These are the raw footage of the training sessions, in real-time, without commentary.
  • On-Demand Access. Course content doesn’t expire. It will remain in your library to view at any time.
  • Pro ABBA members also earn 9 CPDT CEUs for watching all 6 of the Review videos. Click here for details.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_008_sh)]Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) has quickly become a commonly used force-free technique to rehabilitate and prevent (over)reactivity. If you’ve already started learning about this useful, naturalistic technique, but want to see it in practice, this is your chance!

[/s2If]


About the Instructor

Grisha Stewart. Photo by Riley Walters.

This course is presented by Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP. Leash skills are heavily emphasized in this practical course, because they are the very foundation of BAT.


 

Providence Animal CenterShelter: This course works with dogs at the newly redesigned Providence Animal Center in Media, Pennsylvania.

A portion of proceeds went to the shelter and adopters of all student and helper dogs in this course got a free copy of the BAT book, the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual, and the streaming Empowered Animals BAT 2.0 series as an adoption gift.

If you want your shelter to participate in this course next time, please contact us.

Click logo for fitting instructions

Harnesses: All dogs in the course wore the Balance Harness created by Lori Stevens, generously donated by Blue-9.

 

This course has moved to my NEW SITE. Please click here to register there.

Where is BAT on the Humane Hierarchy?

I was surprised to hear that there is still at least one Facebook group that doesn’t allow discussion of Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) because of where they place it in the Humane Hierarchy. I’d post in the group directly, but I was banned years ago for daring to talk about BAT and besides, it may not be the only group that hasn’t gotten around to updating their rules. So I wrote a Facebook post and I’m sharing here in my blog for posterity.

BAT Seminar demo in China

While I think it’s great for a well-informed group to take a stand to encourage humane protocols, the key point is ‘well-informed.’ I’d like to help anyone with outdated information get an accurate look at BAT.

Certified BAT Instructors are required to adhere to the Least Invasive, Minimally Aversive principles of training and Joint Code of Ethics published by the CCPDT, IAABC, and the APDT.

BAT is used for many species, especially dogs with fear, aggression, and even frustration. It promotes learner agency, fosters better communication, and improves the well-being of all involved; as such, discussion of BAT should not just be allowed in modern dog training groups, but actively encouraged. I’m grateful for the many dog trainer groups that discuss BAT as a go-to method for reactivity.

BAT 2.0 lives in the least intrusive parts of behaviorist Susan Friedman’s Humane Hierarchy. I recently taught a seminar at ClickerExpo on the Evolution of BAT, where Susan re-verified that classification before I spoke.

Continue reading Where is BAT on the Humane Hierarchy?

(6.6) Pause to Practice & Course Wrap-Up

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

You’ve made it to the last practice! I hope that this course inspired you to want to learn even more, to take these practices to a deeper level.

  • Practice mindful listening, either active listening or as a Heart with Ears. It may help to film it to see if you truly did keep listening or if you tried to change the subject or focus in some way.
  • Teach a friend how to be a Heart with Ears and take turns sharing stories for a few minutes each.
  • What are the most useful lessons from this course? What will you take with you? Share that with the H2H Facebook group. I’d love to hear what you found most useful.
  • I’d highly recommend working through the Grief Recovery Handbook for one of the major relationships in your life (parents make good ones). Pair up with a friend to do so or ask someone in the H2H Facebook group to be your partner. You’ll both need to read the book and read letters to each other. You can also just read it to your therapist.
  • Please stay in the H2H Facebook group, as active as works for you. If you are gone for a while, don’t worry. You’re part of the tribe and will be welcomed back with open arms.
  • Share other resources that you come across with us – books, online courses, etc. I have a thread for sharing resources in the Facebook group or you can post on the main wall.

Thank you SO much for being a part of this course and for your continued work in this area. We are all making the world a better place by improving our own outlooks.

I hope you were able to find something helpful here. If you have any suggestions for improvement, please email me using the contact form on this site. Sending you much love and encouragement!

May you be safe, may you be loved, may you be satisfied. ❤️
-Grisha

[/s2If]

(6.5) Emotional Approach to Retirement Planning

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

I read a book called “Happiness Is a Choice You Make: Lessons from a Year Among the Oldest Old” by Paul Leland. It’s not a wonderful book, but it did have some good ideas. In it, the interviewed centenarians’ words made it clear that they were most happy in their life when they had a sense of purpose. The ones who achieved that were sometimes lucky, but often had planned to get there. I want that to be me.

Ok, I may never make it to 80. Or I could live to be 120. I don’t know. So I refuse to sacrifice the happiness of today in the hope that later I can enjoy it. I will savor my life now, living with joy, as I mentioned n the previous lesson, not worrying about always being happy, but content with the inevitable ups and downs.

I also don’t think, looking back from 80 or 100, that I would be particularly pleased if I had waited until then to be happy. I think happiness takes practice, so why not start?

And yet, say I do make it to 80. What do I think I will want? What will give me a sense of purpose?

So my answer is personal, and yours will probably be different, but I recommend at least pondering this question, looking at the NVC needs inventory. Here’s some of what I came up with:

  • Having people around me who I can help in some way would give me a sense of purpose.
  • Continuing to write books or teach in some way would give me a sense of purpose. To do so it helps to continue to be a lifelong learner.
  • I love the outdoors, and I’d want a space where my dogs can run without me needing to walk them on a leash.
  • I want to live in a place where I see people who recognize me and know me on a real level.
  • I’d like to have a partner as long as I can.

These are all things that it makes sense to lean toward now, rather than waiting until I’m 80. I read this book 4 years ago and I now have that land where the dogs can run, at the edge of a town in which people recognize me. I built spaces on the land that allow my friends to visit for long stretches of time, and it is essentially a very tiny intentional community. I started running open mic music nights in the town, so I could get to know more people there. When someone here needs help, I help out with my time and effort.

In terms of a partner, I have worked on my own ability to be a good partner, and continue to do so. That made it a lot easier to recognize a really awesome partner when he came along. It has only been a month and we are just getting started, but I have a lot of faith in this relationship lasting, because of all of the mutual respect, good communication, chemistry, shared interests. Life is unpredictable, though, right? And impermanent. So I will savor it every day while it lasts. That’s a good way to make it last.

I do save money for retirement, when I can, but I don’t intend to ever really stop working, so my focus is more on making an emotional plan for my senior years. I am building connections that may possibly nourish me when I get there. I don’t know if these exact connections will be there. But they are nourishing me now, and I imagine they will lead to other connections as time goes on.

[/s2If]

(6.4) Acceptance and Joy

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Acceptance: What Happened, Happened

On an intellectual level, it can seem pretty easy to ‘accept’ that what happened, happened. But if you find yourself wondering, “But what if I had done X?” or “What if they had done Y?” then your brain is demonstrating that you haven’t fully accepted that the loss or transition has happened and there’s no going back.

Now, I’m all about doing better next time, running through scenarios that I might encounter again so that I am prepared to make healthier choices in the future. Try to differentiate between that and a. beating yourself up for making mistakes or b. finding ways to cheat fate to make it not happen.

It was kind of fascinating to me that option b above was even possible. On a rational level, I knew that whatever I come up with won’t bring the dog or person back to life, but on some deeper level, I think that’s what my mind was looking for. If I could only find some way to prevent his death, it would be prevented. But unfortunately, that’s not how time seems to work. It’s a one-way street as long as we’re here in human bodies, so me coming up with ideas was just delaying my own healing, via acceptance.

So any time I caught myself creating scenarios in which my husband lived, I’d say something like, “but that didn’t happen. And I can’t fix things. Brice is dead. No matter what I do now, Brice is still dead.” I’d pull out a picture and say goodbye to his human incarnation, yet again, allowing my sadness to come back and be fully felt. Sadness had been held at bay temporarily by my hunt for ideas. I had to feel it in order to dull its sharpness, to integrate the experience instead of shoving it away.

Do this with whatever emotions come up for you. It may be anger (although sadness may still be under that) or fear or something else.

Joy

Joy isn’t about always being happy. It’s just the opposite of suffering. It is savoring whatever experience currently happens, including grief and loss. Joy is the opposite of struggling with your fate. Accepting that I am exactly where I am, and looking at what’s possible from here with an open mind, that’s joy.

And mourning also doesn’t mean happiness isn’t possible. Quite the contrary. After savoring sadness until it flowed away, there would also be regular life, cuddling with the dogs, or times when I would have such amazing gratitude for the people who would hold space for me to talk about Brice.

There would also times when I’d relive happy experiences we had had together. Sometimes I’d also be crying, while still feeling grateful to have had time with him. In my reading and other learning, there doesn’t seem to be anything wrong with savoring a past experience, as long as it’s not a way to avoid the present or accepting the loss.

The more I accepted Brice’s death, the longer of a respite I’d have between “grief bursts.” Grief doesn’t come in stages, like they used to think. It comes in waves, where unprocessed grief is triggered by the environment or something in our own minds.

At the time of writing, I’m about 6 months out from his suicide, and I estimate I get 1-3 grief bursts a week. They’re smaller than before and I’m really grateful when they come, because it ends up releasing tension, like a summer storm. I think about him a lot, many times a day, but now it’s a lot less painful. Less sharp, less frequent.

In some ways, it’s not so different from rehabilitating dog reactivity: finding all the triggers and experiencing them in a different way. Except with dog reactivity, we would work the edges, stay where the dog is pushing the comfort zone but still inside of it, because we are dealing with fear, and we also have no way to help the dog process the experience in words.

But with mourning, I’m working on acceptance, and go as deep into the pain as I can, accepting it and relaxing into it, letting it pour back out of me like water. Similar to the dogs, though, if were to find that I’m ‘over threshold’ and no longer doing healthy behavior (drinking, self-harm, anything like that) then I might not go into the emotion as deeply at the moment.

[P.S. If you’re considering self-harm, please phone a friend, consult a professional, or call a crisis line.]

By processing grief, by letting myself feel all of the pain, anger, sadness, happiness, relief, etc. as it comes, I continue to live a life of joy, even with tears streaming down my face. Experiencing grief builds my compassion, because I see that we are have grief, every one of us.

Allowing others to hear my grief, and listening to theirs, helps me realize yet again that I am not at all alone, even though my individual grief may be unique. Accepting life as it is and leaning toward the possibilities of the future leaves a lot of room for happiness to take root.

[/s2If]

(6.3) Transitions and Loss

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

What are Transitions?

Transitions include any kind of change in our life, including loss through death, change in relationship status, moving, switching jobs, graduating, a diagnosis, or any kind of change in identity, to name a few. All transitions bring with them the possibility of experiencing grief, so please read this section even if you haven’t experienced any giant recent loss. If you find yourself deliberately wanting to avoid this section, it’s probably especially important to read it.

Grief is any of the completely normal and complex set of emotions that come up after a transition. Sadness, anger, confusion, numbness, fear, joy, relief…they’re all often part of grief. In some ways, you might feel “crazy” because life feels so different.

Allowing yourself to feel all of it, without distraction, is extremely helpful. Even if that means a lot of pain emotionally and physically, from the tightness of your body.

When you’ve just experienced a new loss, it can be very disorienting. I found it helpful to just focus on my body at first, keep the “meat suit” healthy, and then give myself whatever time I need to process the feelings.

Ways to keep the body healthy:

  • Eat real food. When Peanut and Brice died, I barely wanted to eat anyway, so I ate foods that I knew were nutritious, enough to sustain me.
  • Hydrate with water or tea, not high sugar or caffeine drinks.
  • Sleep. Even if you can’t sleep, lie down rest when your body wants it. I found it helpful to take melatonin at night for the first few weeks. Meditating in bed helped me sleep, too. I used guided meditations in the Headspace grief pack. I found that when counting breaths I had to count only up to 2 or 4, because it was very hard to focus when grieving.
  • Move your body when you can, go for walks, dance, stretch. We hold grief and trauma in our bodies. Let it move.
  • Relax your muscles. Do a body scan, like in the meditation section, but do it lying down and relax your muscles, one at a time. You can go top to bottom or bottom up. Relax every muscle from the top of your head to your toes. Repeat as often as you need. This is helpful for sleep.

Any unprocessed grief might come back up when you experience a new loss or transition, so it’s important to take the time to integrate the experience, to “feel the feels” and let yourself mourn.

What is Mourning and How is It Different From Grief?

Mourning is the deliberate process of working through grief. We all experience grief in our own ways, and at our own pace. Don’t let anyone tell you how you “should” grieve. That said, it’s a skill to mourn in a way that furthers your own personal growth, so it can help to learn about what has been helpful to other people.

I have an article on many ways that we can mourn the loss of a dog or other pet, called “You’re Not Crazy, You’re Mourning.” Most of the material in there applies to grief from any other kind of transition, too. Please give that a read before going further in this article.

If you want to go more deeply into pet loss grief, or if you have a senior dog that you’re worried about losing, please also read this article I wrote about Peanut’s death.

I highly recommend the book, “The Grief Recovery Handbook: The Action Program for Moving Beyond Death, Divorce, and Other Losses including Health, Career, and Faith” by Russell Friedman and John James. I read it and also went through a class with one of their certified grief specialists. It was helpful and also validated that what I was doing to mourn was on a healthy track.

Even if you’re not actively grieving a loss right now, the point of their book is that you’ve had many transitions to grieve in your life already, and if they haven’t been processed, they’re holding you back. Besides, you will almost definitely experience more major losses in your life, so practicing how to grieve in a healthy way now will be helpful.

I’ll share some tidbits from that book, mostly things to avoid, and also a way to get some closure.

When you feel strong emotion from grief coming up, don’t avoid it. Let it come, sit with it.

Common distractions:

  • TV
  • Reading
  • Sex
  • Food
  • Alcohol
  • Drugs
  • Work
  • Exercise
  • Beating yourself up for not making things differently
  • Training dogs 🙂
  • Getting in arguments

Of course, eating healthy food and getting some exercise are great. Reading can be useful. So is dog training. But just don’t go to the point of addiction and don’t use them to distract yourself from feeling and processing your emotions. I had to let myself have lots of time where I wasn’t busy, where my emotions could be fully experienced in mind and body, and the pieces of my heart could come back together in a bigger, more expansive way.

If you find yourself using a distraction to avoid a feeling, stop and get in touch with your emotions. If you’re going down a spiral of reworking the past, “I could have…I should have…” it’s okay to interrupt with “But I didn’t.”

Let it go, just like we do in meditation. I think those thoughts are a strategy to feel better in some way, but it ends up being destructive. For me, a healthier strategy to feel better was to go right into the pain, and experience it. Some of the best advice I ever got was “lean into the pain of loss.” When I refocus on the emotion underneath – the loneliness, the sadness, I turn off the stream of words and just feel it – it fades away relatively quickly.

For example, if my mind started running through scenarios of how I could have helped my husband live longer, I would interrupt and say, “But that didn’t happen. He died. And now I feel…(pause to scan my body and picture him, or look at a photo and let the feelings come) SAD. I miss him.” Then I’d cry it out or go through whatever other emotion came up. 10 minutes later, I’d feel better and go on with living. More about that in the Acceptance and Joy lesson, which is next.

The Relationship isn’t Gone, Just Different

There really is no such thing as closure, like you’re just closing up shop and done with ever thinking about the person, dog, or whatever happened before. But there is a sense of peace that comes from fully accepting that the past is not changeable from where we sit. What is changeable is how we access the past, how we think about it now, and what we learn from the experience.

When you lose a person, there is still a relationship, it’s just a radically different one. Whether you believe the other person interacts with you or not is your own spiritual belief. But there continues to be a sort of interaction with them in your own mind, ways you think about them.

Here’s a practice that I do that helps me a lot with my husband’s death. It meets my need to process the grief and also to continue to get emotional support from our relationship, even though he isn’t here on earth any longer.

When I have a question of what to do, especially one related to him, I write a letter. I have a notebook just for those letters. I spell out my issue and I end with a question for him. I sign it. Then I clear my head and write a letter back from him to me, answering the question. I try to write quickly and not overthink it. Do I believe it’s really him? Not really, but my spirituality is still evolving. I think it’s mostly a way to bring out my own wisdom.

This practice uses the fact that our minds develop a ‘construct’ of other people, “what would so and so do in this situation?” So I have this construct of him in my mind and I have ideas of how he might respond to the current situation. The letter exchange allows me to basically project my highest self onto this construct of him, so I can pull out my own truths from what I write.

It’s a technique that I borrowed from the book “Eat, Pray, Love: One Woman’s Search for Everything Across Italy, India, and Indonesia,” where she gets inspiration writing letters back and forth to “God.”

One thing that I found extremely helpful from reading the Grief Recovery book (and the live in-person course I took along with it) is the idea of writing a letter to the person in a specific way. So in addition to the letter exchange, I also wrote a few letters using their structure. The letter starts off with my apologies (for whatever I regret), then things I forgive (events, behaviors that I accept as having happened), and then any significant emotional statements. The letter concludes with goodbye.

Then, and this is the important bit, the letter gets read to a living person, a person who knows how to be a Heart with Ears. I think having someone who is alive to witness the words is really important. Even though it’s not the actual person, something about the process helps us feel heard, and the coulda-woulda-shoulda statements can be put to rest. I had people do this as part of a funeral ceremony for my husband and I think it was really helpful.

The book points out that we can do this with people who are still alive, too. We often have many things that we grieve with our parents or other people among the living. They warn against reading the full letter to them, however, because it might just bring up conflict. So they had us read the letters to neutral parties. I imagine SOME of the items from the letters could also be brought up using NVC.

Keep Talking About It

I love this touching conversation about death between Anderson Cooper and Stephen Colbert about the their own personal experiences with grief. Anderson Cooper lost his mother two months ago and his brother and father many years back.

Be brave, have real conversations, go deep whenever you can. Share this aspect of common humanity, let it help you realize that this is some kind of entrance ticket to being part of the human club. Turn to whatever spirituality or understanding of the world gives you a framework through which to comprehend the death, (though I’d personally hope you turn to one that doesn’t shame anyone, ever).

The more authentically we talk about our experiences with grief, the more easily we integrate them into our lives. Listen to this all, I especially connect with what he says at about 14:20 and on from there, about gratitude for our suffering, because of the compassion that it brings, allowing us to be the most human we can be.

Bonus Resources:

Here’s a lovely guided meditation for grief by Megan Devine:

 

[/s2If]

(6.2) Mindful Listening

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Paying Attention

When we use mindfulness to listen, we are extremely present with the person. We’re not trying to fix them, to make suggestions, to have something witty to say in reply. The point is to listen to the main content, but also to allow all levels of communication to happen.

When someone is sharing with me, I try to put all of my attention on the conversation. The skills practiced in meditation help me let go of wandering thoughts (including preparing a response or coming up with solutions) and bring focus back to the moment. I use my senses to take in information:

  • Listen for the feelings and needs being expressed.
  • Remember what they are saying, particularly the key points.
  • Observe their body language.
  • Notice how listeners respond:
    • Feel my own body and how I respond emotionally to the conversation. I keep light attention on my breathing and my whole upper body.
    • Watch the body language of other people in the conversation.
    • If a dog is in the room, I pay some attention to how they respond to the conversation, for their wellbeing and also dogs have a lot of empathy.

Keep in mind that others listening, including the dogs, are responding from their own perspective, their own conditioning and personality.

Your dog may respond to joyful high energy with fear, for example. You may find yourself getting defensive and that was not at all the intention of the person speaking. You might become judgmental, which I find usually only happens to me when I’m feeling insecure. Something they said (or they way they said it) may just subconsciously remind you of a totally separate situation with a negative emotional context.

Frankly, I think it’s kind of a miracle that people can communicate at all. Each word or tone of voice that we use has a LOT of past uses in our own experience, so even if we have an accepted definition, words land in each person’s mind in a slightly (or vastly) different way.

Active Listening

Active listening communicates that we are listening and that the person was understood. It includes the skills above of really paying attention to the person, as well as checking in to make sure we’re interpreting the information close to the way that they intended.

  • Stay focused on understanding what they’re saying from their own perspective. It’s tempting to respond with how you see things, whether you agree or disagree, or how you would suggest that they fix their problem.
  • Use your body language to express your interest. This will probably happen naturally when you truly are focused on the person and what they are saying.
    • Smiling when appropriate.
    • Eye contact – not staring, but soft eye contact. People are comfortable with different amounts of eye contact, so be mindful of too much, just as you would be with a dog.
    • Posture – lean slightly forward or sideways while sitting. The more interested you are, the more your feet will also tend to point at the person. If you find that your arms are crossed, ask yourself if you’re feeling defensive. You might possibly just be cold, but note that your body may be communicating defensiveness with that closed-off position.
    • Crying – if they are sharing something sad, it’s totally okay to cry. Don’t stop yourself or apologize. If they cry, don’t try to stop them by saying “it’s okay” or immediately giving them tissue. If they seem to be looking for it, help them out, but don’t interrupt an emotional sharing with tissue.
    • Hugs – hugs are great, but they can interrupt the flow of an emotional sharing. Don’t rush in to hug while they’re still deep in sharing something important. Watch to see if THEY are asking for a hug, not just that you’re feeling uncomfortable and want to make them stop feeling the emotion they are expressing. If you aren’t 100% certain that they want a hug, ask first and note that their body language as well as their words are the answer.
    • Mirroring their body language usually happens naturally too, when you’re really tuned in. Or you can mirror the person in order to tune in more. Don’t totally copy them move for move, or it gets creepy, but it can help to get into a similar posture to them. If they cross their legs, for example, then you do it a little bit later. You can even mirror closed off posture, like arms crossed, and then after a while open up your posture to something more relaxed so that they might open up, too.
  • Be curious! Ask questions whenever they come up. Don’t derail the conversation from what the speaker was talking about, but people often feel really heard when we are curious about what they said and ask follow-up questions.
  • Ask for clarification. Especially helpful if you can ask if they’re feeling X or needing Y. For example, “Sounds like you were really frustrated?”
  • Reflection – paraphrase what you understood. Not every sentence, but every so often, check if you’re comprehending what they’re saying. Rephrase what they said, in a short form, in your own words.
  • Summary – basically this is reflection, but you can summarize their main points to make sure you understood them.

Heart With Ears

Sometimes, when we share our deep emotions, like grief, it is helpful to simply have a witness, and not someone who is as involved as an active listener would be. The person talks everything through and we are just there to listen. We don’t talk at all, except for small noises or words to indicate we are listening.

It helps to have this be something you arrange in advance, so the person knows they are completely running the show and you are simply there to listen, not come up with solutions or intervene in the flow of the conversation at all. But sometimes even when we didn’t plan for it, I shift out of verbal active listening and just use enough body language to let the person I’m listening know I’m still following along.

In the book, “The Grief Recovery Handbook: The Action Program for Moving Beyond Death, Divorce, and Other Losses including Health, Career, and Faith ,” John James and Russell Friedman refer to this as a “Heart with Ears.”

In the Heart with Ears role, we simply listen, maybe we also cry or laugh, but we don’t give any other feedback. No questions, no reframing, nothing. This is not about making sure you understand the person, though you are listening and trying to do that, too. Being a heart with ears allows people to communicate their emotion and go deep inside it. It’s not about you, it’s about them. You witness their sharing, but you don’t participate in it with words, because those may take them away from the deep emotion.

I think the best use of the Heart with Ears idea is when you are sharing something that’s not about the other person. For example I can call my longtime friend and ask if she will just listen to me talk through my experience with a client or a new epiphany about the loss of my husband. If I don’t want or need her feedback, asking her for that in advance sets both of us up for success. She can be my Heart with Ears for a few minutes and then we swap, so I can hear about her life in a similar way.

Here’s a really helpful video about listening to someone who is grieving. I’ll dig more into grief on the next page. One important point is that we can experience grief from any transition, not just from death or other clear losses like divorce. Graduating from school, getting married, having children, changing jobs (even to a ‘better’ one), moving, having an operation, any of that can bring on grief.

 

[/s2If]

 

(5.5) Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

This section had several specific exercises. Go through them and report back on the Facebook group:

  1. Lovingkindness meditation
  2. Walking Meditation
  3. Meditation while doing some other activity
  4. Relationship audits (do at least one)

(5.4) Relationship Audits

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Does This Relationship Meet My Needs?

Each of us has many kinds of relationships. You may or may not have a romantic relationship right now, but I imagine you have some kind of relationships: family, neighbors, friends, dogs, etc. or have had some in the past.

Pick 1-3 of your most important relationships, the ones that currently impact your life the most. Technically you can do these audits for relationships with people or dogs who are no longer among the living, but it probably helps to start with beings who are alive. We’ll cover grief and transitions in the next section of this course.

For each relationship, print out two copies of the NVC Needs Inventory. Start with your role in the relationship.

Pay attention to how your chest and stomach feel as you read each one, how your breathing changes and any other body sensation.

  • Go through the list once and Circle the needs that you believe the relationship with you meets for the other person. Take the time to savor the experience of helping that person meet their, and imagining how it feels to them to have that need met.
  • Underline the needs that the relationship doesn’t meet for the other person. Relationships don’t have to meet every need!  Notice if there are any needs that you are capable of or interested in meeting, but are not doing. At some point, ponder why you are not doing so.
  • Put a star (*) next to the needs that you believe you are interfering with for the other person. Is your relationship truly blocking the meeting of that need, or does it just require some creativity and adaptation on their part, to find a strategy to meet their need allows your relationship to thrive? If your behavior is interfering with them meeting their needs, is there a behavior or habit that you could change?

Repeat from the other direction, assessing whether the relationship meets your needs.

Go over the first list again. Then consider whether it would be useful to discuss your findings with the other person in the relationship, possibly using your NVC skills.

In what ways could the relationship change so that it doesn’t interfere with either party meeting their needs?

In what ways could the relationship change so that it might help both parties meet more of their needs, or in more satisfying ways?

BONUS: Do this activity for the relationship with your inner child

(5.3) Meditation on the Move

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Walking Meditation

Meditation can be done in any position, but it’s ideal to have your airway open and it’s easier if your body is not in pain.

At some times in my life (like grad school), sitting still for meditation has just been too hard for me, and walking meditation really bridged the gap. I also think that meditation while walking integrates the process in ways that sitting doesn’t do. It’s also very grounding. So walking meditation is not just an easier version, it’s something I’d include anyway.

For starters, pick an area that has few distractions, where you’ll essentially pace back and forth or walk in a loop. I walk barefoot, but that may or may not work for you.

If you want to condition a scent to be calming, put that scent in the air or on your wrist before the meditation.

The basic walking meditation I do goes like this:

  1. Keep your eyes softly open, focusing on your feet or at a point ahead of you. Be aware of the general space around you without zooming in on the details. Take small careful steps, essentially one foot in front of the other. You’re not trying to get anywhere, just keep your body busy so you can get out of the grip of your thoughts.
  2. Take some calming breaths. For example, breathe out slowly until your lungs are empty. Inhale slowly and expand your belly until you can’t hold any more. Repeat for 3 breath cycles.
  3. Breathe naturally. Keep walking, one step at a time.
  4. Let whatever sounds are in the area reach your awareness, and let them go. There’s no need to stretch your hearing, just hear the sounds as they come. Do this for about a minute.
  5. Do a body scan, top to bottom, as with the meditations in Section 4.3.
  6. Turn your awareness to your feet. One step at time, feel the sensation of your feet on the ground, making contact. Without using words, note the pressure on the various parts of your foot. Allow yourself to feel grounded as you contact the earth or at least the floor.When thoughts arise (notice I didn’t write IF), let them go and return attention to your feet. If thoughts are particularly intrusive, you can count your steps in sets of 8. When you lose track of the count, just return your attention back to the steps. If it happens a lot, don’t beat yourself up. Just like with dog training, just lower your criteria to something that works. Have a smaller count, like 4 or even 2.
  7. After some time (say, 10 minutes), return your attention to your breath for about a minute, noting when you inhale and when you exhale. If you find that you get lost in thoughts a lot, you can give yourself something to focus on. A common thing to do is count sets of breaths, say 8 at a time.
  8. Allow sounds to come to your attention again, and become aware of the sights around you.
  9. Stretching at the end or shaking off like a wet dog is a fun way to end it.

Other Ways to Mix Movement and Meditation

I’ve done a lot of meditation sessions while doing physical activities. Any kind of meditation that one does while sitting can be done with movement as well, but there’s always some amount of focus on the physical sensations of your body so I don’t hurt myself.

My favorite meditations to do while moving are metta (lovingkindness), focusing almost all attention on the breath (a type of insight meditation), and focusing all attention on my physical sensations (also insight meditation).

  • Yoga
  • Walking the dog. Keep your focus on the dog, for example, and the physical sensations of the leash in your hand. Useful with the BAT leash skills.
  • Sex with or without a partner
  • Dance
  • Hiking
  • Stay training with your dog
  • Heel training with your dog. I like doing this with “it’s your choice” training, where you basically walk around a small area and give your dog a treat whenever they show up at your left side. While you are walking, you can essentially do the walking meditation above.

Here’s an example of a guided meditation for walking in nature:

 

(5.2) Unconditional Love, Compassion, Lovingkindness Meditation

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Compassion and Unconditional Love

Compassion is direct awareness of suffering, the “heart that trembles in the face of suffering” (Buddhist definition), and a desire to help end the suffering. Compassion is empathy plus a desire to act.

When we see a dog being pulled off his feet by a choke chain and feel almost as if it’s happening to us, that’s empathy. That feeling, combined with the desire to do something about it, and stop the leash pops for the sake of the dog, is compassion.

Feeling the frustration or fear of the woman who corrected the dog in the first place is also empathy. Maybe she was feeling ashamed and scared because her dog was barking at other dogs, and she was worried that he would get in a fight. She didn’t know what else to do, so she watched a television show that told her to lift the dog up by his slip chain whenever he looked at other dogs. Wanting to help her train the dog without force so that her own needs for safety and predictability are met is compassion.

If we only have compassion for the dog, then our approach to the woman might not be skillful. Without compassion for the woman, we might only take the dog’s needs into account, and thus our proposed solutions are much less likely to work. We might be unkind to her or just suggest a strategy that makes no sense to her.

Compassion is powerful because when we try to see things from other people’s perspectives, we are working WITH people, not against them.

We can also build up more compassion for ourselves. Without compassion, we might see our own behavior from a conditioned point of view and pass judgement on it as Good or Bad. Seeing behavior the NVC way, as an attempt to meet a need, we can still assess our behavior as being healthy or not:
– Does it serve life? (Allow the meeting of needs)
– Does it interfere with our ability to meet needs?
– Does it interfere with someone else’s ability to meet their needs?

We can have empathy for ourselves by really feeling our feelings, and seeing them as information about unmet needs, rather than passing judgement on them. Then we can have compassion by having a desire to end our own suffering, and see that we are just as worthy as anyone else to have our needs met. Note that we are ALL worthy of having our needs met, which is antithetical for meeting our needs in a way that prevents someone else meeting theirs.

When we act with compassion, we take other’s needs into account. That doesn’t mean we meet everyone’s needs. That would be impossible. It also doesn’t mean we have no boundaries. In fact, compassion requires us to put healthy boundaries on behavior, as far as I’m concerned.

Acting with compassion means we don’t behave in a way that prevents someone else from meeting their needs, and often that we do help them meet their needs in some way.

Technically compassion applies to all people, including ourselves, so we really don’t need a separate category of self-compassion, but I think it helps to think about it and do specific practices for increasing self-compassion. With self-compassion, we recognize that were are part of humanity, every bit as worthy of avoiding suffering as anyone else.

A compassionate person doesn’t meet their own needs in a way that prevents others from meeting theirs. That also includes self-compassion: person doesn’t meet other’s needs in a way that prevents meeting their own needs.

Since I am most aware of my own needs, and they matter most to me, I figure I’m the most responsible for meeting my needs. Any needs I can meet on my own, I do, so that I don’t require as much from others. But it’s not possible or desirable to be completely independent. I have a need to help others and they have a need to help me. We did not evolve to be emotionally self-sufficient.

Lovingkindness Meditation

Also called “metta,” lovingkindness is a family of meditations to practice compassion. Love and kindness are sent to others and self in order to practice feeling unconditional love.

What is unconditional love? Well, that’s a big question and I’ll just share what I’ve come to believe it is. You may have another definition of it. First, unconditional means without conditions. So no matter what, regardless of behavior, this love is available. What is love? There are so many definitions of love that it boggles my mind.

My most basic level of love is that I wish for the object of my love to be at peace, to be free of suffering. This is love that I can feel unconditionally. No matter who it is, where they live, or even what species they are, I wish for them to be free from suffering. That applies to self-love, too. I, too, deserve to be at peace and free from suffering.

This is the kind of love that I send out during lovingkindness meditation. Here’s an exercise I like to do.

Start by getting comfortable, either sitting in a chair with both feet flat on the ground, in cross-legged pose, or while walking slowly in an area with minimal obstacles. I’ve actually done this meditation (on low focus) while listening to a friend talk something through with most of my focus. I wouldn’t recommend doing this if you lose track of what the other person is saying, though.

Stay open to any feelings that come up for you. Tears are fine, it’s all fine. No judgement.

PREPARE:

  1. Relax your breathing for 3 breath cycles. For example, breathe in deeply, hold for about the same amount of time, then breathe out slowly.
  2. Close your eyes (if possible / safe)
  3. Scan your body as mentioned last week, from the top of your head to your toes.
  4. Relax into your breathing, letting your thoughts go by. Count your breath in sets of 5 or 10 if it helps you focus.
  5. Without using words, briefly visualize the beings who will benefit from your meditation.
    [You don’t have to think of every single one. Pretty much every interaction you have with others is improved by being more grounded and compassionate.]LOVINGKINDNESS:
  6. Think of a being you love and whose company you enjoy. It can be a person, dog, or spiritual entity. Someone you are sure that you love.
  7. Imagine wishing them well. I mentally say, “May you be loved, may you be safe, may you be free from suffering.”
  8. Imagine a tube from your heart to the heart of the other person, and back. It pumps pure gold over to them, which is your love and it gradually gets stronger and brighter, sending love over to the other person. The return side of that pump is their love mixed with mud (defenses, misunderstandings, conditioned responses, etc.), flowing out of them and into your heart, to be cleansed and returned back to them as pure, bright love. I picture it as a dull gray color on its way to me. So I ‘see’ muddy liquid flowing along to me, getting purified by the warm love inside my heart, and flowing out to them as golden love. The ‘mud’ just disappears, it doesn’t stay in me. If you want to you, can repeat the words of wishing them well, over and over.
  9. Repeat this until the tube from them to you is also clean, so you can visualize their, pure, unconditional love coming into your heart and right on back to them.
  10. Next, switch to a person more distant to you, someone you know but don’t feel strongly for, one way or another. Repeat until the pump is clear, only golden in and out.
  11. Advanced: Repeat with another person who you have a misunderstanding with right now.  Or even with someone you really, really have a hard time connecting with. Another option is to repeat this with all beings on earth. We all want to be loved and be happy.
  12. Repeat with yourself as the object of your love. You can picture it coming right out of you and back or with your inner child as the person with whom you are exchanging love.”May you be loved, may you be safe, may you be free from suffering.”
    OR
    May you be loved, may you be safe, may you be free from suffering.”For some people, this is easier than the steps above and for some, it is the hardest. If you have trouble with one of the steps above, you might try this one sooner to see if it helps.CLOSE:
  13. Return your focus to your body and breath. Allow yourself to notice physical sensation and the sounds around you.
  14. Open your eyes.
  15. Take a moment to rest with your sensations before moving

p.s.
For me, to be “in love” with someone is to be fascinated by their inner world, to be mutually responsible for each other’s well-being. The latter half of that flies in the face of the pop psychology idea of being independent and completely responsible for our own happiness. But this is actually backed by science: we have no choice but to be biologically interdependent with on our partners. The reliable, mutual support of partners paradoxically allows them to be more free. “If you want to take the road to independence and happiness, first find the right person to depend on, and travel down the road with them” (from ‘Attached: the New Science of Adult Attachment and How It Can Help You Find – and Keep – Love.”)

If you want a guided lovingkindness meditation, there are a LOT of them on YouTube. Here are a few that I particularly enjoyed.

This one is from the Thich Nhat Hanh foundation, with a basic Lovingkindness meditation.

 

This second one is on the Sounds True YouTube channel (definitely check it out!) about self-compassion. That idea might seem a little ‘selfish,’ but it isn’t. Quite the opposite.

I firmly believe that we eventually treat those close to us in a way that is similar to how we treat ourselves. So one of the best things you can do for the people you love is to learn to be compassionate to yourself.

Another perk of compassion toward myself has been that I feel more safe with myself, and thus more willing to open up and be authentic. By feeling safe, I create an environment in which I can expose my defenses for what they are and see the shining gold of my own heart beneath them.

For example, if I react to something with shame, I can have awareness of my shame and not feel ashamed about feeling ashamed. I just notice it, holding it with compassion, let the feeling happen, without trying to push it away. My shame is sort of a “I hope nobody notices that I am such and such a way.”

Then shame fades naturally and I have space to see what was hiding behind the shame. Sometimes I realize that being that certain way is just a story in my head. I was ashamed for no reason, because it was a false idea of myself. Or sometimes it’s even better; I realize that being that certain way is actually AWESOME but I didn’t realize that when I was 5 years old so I’ve been hiding it away ever since.

For example, I was told in elementary school choir practice that I could be heard above the others. I internalized that to mean that I shouldn’t be heard when singing, and it crippled my singing voice for decades. I’m only now just learning that what I was doing at that point was called “projecting my voice” and that having the audience hear me when singing is not a bad thing, it’s a good thing! Maybe my voice wasn’t amazing. But singing is a learned skill, not a genetic ‘flaw’ or something to be ashamed of. Wow.

Here’s one for kids (of all ages). I find meditation for kids can be really useful for folks that have trouble with the standard meditations.

 

(4.5) Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

  1. Take in the Good. Today you will have a moment that is at least okay, or even wonderful. Maybe it is happening right now. Take a minute to savor the experience–take in all of the sensory experience and deliberately remember it. Use the steps in the reading.
  2. What are your ‘heart holes’ – your main go-to ways that you feel less than perfect? For example, mine are “I don’t belong” and “I’m not enough.” Look for antidote experiences, the experiences that counteract that feeling, that disprove your negative self-talk and Take in the Good for them. Share some of your Take In the Good moments in the group, if you are willing.
  3. Try each of the mindfulness exercises (say one or two per day) and find your top 1-3 favorites, to do on a regular basis. What could remind you to do those exercises? Planting your own environmental reminders, like whenever you see a Stop sign, when you go to the bathroom, when you get or out of in your car, while you wait for your food to heat or cook, while you wait for files to load, or when you get off of work for the day, for example. An alarm on your phone is another option, but I find it more durable to have something steady in the environment to trigger me.
  4. Notice experiences of shame (Rumble), and any time you deliberately use shame on someone else. Reflect on your emotions using the Reckoning. Write it out, get those words on the paper. Then look at the parts of what you wrote that might be trying to shame yourself or someone else. Accept the parts that are true, behaviors that happened that you might do differently next time. Don’t accept the critic that’s shaming you. Then rewrite it with courage.  Feel free to post in the Facebook group to try to work through this together.

 

[/s2If]

(4.4) Wholehearted Living and Badassery

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

This section is a dear one to my heart. It’s really a summary of the most important things that I’ve learned from researcher Brené Brown.

  1. We are all doing the very best we can, at each moment. We can also dig deep and do better in the next moment.
  2. Shame, the fear that we don’t belong, is in all of us, to a greater or lesser extent. We basically all have it and most of us are afraid to talk about it. To have no shame at all is actually sociopathic. That doesn’t mean we should constantly be trying to fit in. But it means that we evolved as a social species, and belonging is a truly powerful need.
  3. Recognizing and leveraging our experience of shame to be useful is a learned skill.
  4. Badassery comes from being authentic, from seeing our problems as challenges that we can rise to, learn from, and in so doing, gain in compassion and wisdom.
  5. When get the idea of ‘making’ someone feel a certain way, it’s usually because that’s how we are feeling. That can be our own triggered history or it could be that the person was doing it on purpose.
  6. Brown has three steps to address the times when we realize we are taken over by defenses, mired in shame: Rumble, Reckoning, and Revolution. First we Rumble with our emotions, realizing we have been hit by a wall of shame or anger or whatever. Then we start to take control by consciously going through the Reckoning, where we own our story.Write out the storyline in your head that’s driving the emotion. Brown calls this a “shitty first draft.” Write out everything, as much as you can. Example lines from that story: “Everybody hates me, I’ll never fit in.” “She wants to feel terrible because I didn’t do this for her.” You can also share the story with a trusted friend or therapist who will let you just talk it through, rather than jumping to your aid or denying your story while you’re still in the process of revising it. Then comes the Revolution, where you rewrite the story, reframe it to a more realistic point of view and a better ending. NVC skills have come in very handy for me in this step.I can’t do proper justice to this technique, and I highly recommend that you read one or more of Brown’s excellent books, starting with Rising Strong: How the Ability to Reset Transforms the Way We Live, Love, Parent, and Lead. I also love her other books, including Daring Greatly, which is important to read if you have things you want to bring into the world–ideas, objects, techniques. It’s a book about vulnerability and it’s also really good for running a business or organization (like an animal shelter).
  7. Without vulnerability, we cannot create. We cannot thrive. Armoring up against negative experiences also blocks out creativity, growth, love, belonging, joy, trust, and empathy. Learning how to recover and even thrive after experiencing pain, loss, and shame is a Superpower, because now I don’t have to worry about experiencing them. I have learned how to allow myself to be vulnerable to connection. Connecting to other people (and myself) gives my life purpose. Brown’s work is a big part of that.

Here are a couple of great videos of Brown speaking.

[/s2If]

(4.3) Mindfulness

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

What is Mindfulness?

I think of mindfulness as the state of being aware of my mind, observing and experiencing, rather than getting swept up and becoming my thoughts and emotions.

For example, if I’m angry at something my friend has done, a non-mindful response would be to shout, blame, judge, sulk, or maybe find some way to get back at him. Or I might hide my anger and pretend everything is ok, burying my emotion deeply — on purpose or without even really knowing or acknowledging my anger.

Let’s compare that to responding with mindfulness. The physiological response is the same, but I recognize and pay attention to those sensations — the racing heart, the feeling in my chest — and also note the thoughts of blame, shaming, etc. but I don’t “fall” for them, to recognize them as ideas and let them go. I don’t get hooked.

It’s like observing a race, with cars speeding by. I’m not trying to climb in, just note they are there and let them go. I keep light attention on my breathing and put the bulk of my focus on the physical sensation of the anger: feeling the burn, the intensity rising and falling as the rush of neurotransmitters returns to normal. Without words (internal or external) to fuel my anger (or any other emotion), the physical sensation fades within a minute or two.

Then I might look at what feeling is under the anger to see what I really feel. Anger indicates some sort of expectation violation and underneath it there’s another emotion, sadness, shame. I look at the needs that are not being met. When I first did this, I routinely pulled up the NVC Feelings Inventory and Needs Inventory on my phone.

Once I know how I am feeling, and what I need, I can self-soothe with breathing, revisiting a memory made by Taking in the Good, meditation, or other mindfulness strategies. If it’s a situation that would benefit from talking through with the other person (I need to set a boundary or request a behavior change) I can use NVC or some other compassionate approach to talk with my friend and sort out the problem.

Here’s a scientifically measurable definition of mindfulness from Psychology Today: “mindfulness is the self-regulation of attention with an attitude of curiosity, openness, and acceptance.” I like that operationalization because it’s broad enough to include the many ways to be mindful, and specific enough to tell if something is mindfulness or not.

Mindfulness practices allow us to observe the chatter and silence of our minds. It’s not so different from being curious and simply watching a group of dogs at the park, without an intention of control, judgement, etc. The practice of being able to focus one’s attention in this way has a huge laundry list of benefits

Breathing

Image result for box breathingBreathing in a steady rhythm or breathing out longer than you breathe in releases calming neurotransmitters, basically like your body’s natural opium. We discussed the 4-7-8 breathing exercise at the beginning of the last section and I’ll share a few more below. As with most breathing exercises, breathe in such a way that your abdomen puffs out when you inhale and goes back in when you exhale. Your chest and shoulders should be steady while doing this “diaphragmatic breathing.”

Breathing exercises can be done by themselves or as part of other meditation. Breath work can be done alone or with a partner, including a human or even your dog (although the dog won’t know s/he is part of it!)

Focus just on your breathing. If you start thinking about something else, don’t worry or shame yourself, just return attention to the breath.

  1. Doubling. The idea here is to breathe out for twice as long as you breathe in, while also slowing down your breathing rate by half at each breath cycle. I made this up, but I imagine I wasn’t the first one to do so. Exhale completely. Next, breathe in for 2 seconds, out for 4, then double those numbers each time: in for 4, out for 8; in for 8, out for 16; in for 16, out for 32 (or as long as you can). Then allow your breathing to return to normal.
  2. Box Breathing (or square breathing). This technique is taught in the US military to help soldiers handle stress. With this type of breathing, you’ll inhale, hold, exhale, and hold, all for the same count. You can make up the count.
    The longer you do each side of the box, the more relaxing it is. So for example, you’d first start by exhaling all of your air. Then breathe in for a count of 4, hold for 4, breathe out for 4, hold for 4, and repeat. Do that for a while and then switch to a count of 8 for the sides of your box. I do this kind of breathing to calming music (but it even works for music not designed to be relaxing). I use the numbers 4 and 8 because most western music is to a count of 4 or multiples of 4.You can breathe with your mouth or nose, whichever works for you, but breathing in with the nose and out with the mouth is helpful. For one thing, it gives you more to focus on and keeps your mind quiet. For another, there is some data saying that this particular way of breathing helps.
Box breathing
Box Breathing

Feeling Emotion in Your Body

This is an extremely important aspect of mindfulness. To use the metaphor of trying to help the border collie in your head settle down, learning to physically feel and identify your emotion is as essential as learning canine body language.

If you have any young people in your life (or if you like reading kids books), I highly recommend Listening to My Body by Gabi Garcia and Ying Hui Tan. For adults, I really love Meeting The Dragon: Ending Our Suffering By Entering Our Pain, a short but intense book by Robert Augustus Masters.

Here are some ways to become more aware of your body.

Body Scan

This is helpful at bedtime or any time you want to let go of tension.

Ideally, start out by breathing with purpose for a few breath cycles, with your out-breath longer than your in-breath. The 4-7-8 is a good one, as is even breathing, doubling, or box breathing.

Now for the scan. Starting just above the top of your head, shift your attention gradually down to your toes, slow and steady, like liquid sunlight dripping down. I think of it sort of like an MRI scanner, where I’m creating a sort of snapshot of the current state of my nervous system, muscles, everything. In my scan, I get information from the nerves all along my body, not in verbal form, but as sensations. If any thoughts come up, I let them go and put my attention back on the physical sensations. Usually I do it for just a minute or or two but sometimes it’s a quick scan and sometimes I take longer.

Try it out for yourself for about one minute. Did you feel any resistance during this exercise, either in your body or in your mind? Do you have any muscles that are still tight? Any “yes, but,” thoughts? Don’t try to immediately get rid of your resistance and please do let go of any judgement. As the saying goes, “what you resist, persists.” This popular saying probably came from Carl Jung’s quote, “What you resist not only persists, but it will grow in size.”

Just observe your resistance. Knowing what you resisted in this self-love exercise is powerful information.

When you repeat the exercise above, ask yourself the question, “who or what are you resisting?” Ask in the third person, like you’re asking someone else. It’s not meant to be answered in words, just mentally say the question and let that plant the seed of curiosity in your consciousness. Who or what are you resisting?

Speaking of resistance, I had the coolest experience last year. Or, I should say, the hottest. I started having some hot flashes. I had a hysterectomy in 2010 so I was told I might have early menopause. I don’t know if it’s the start of perimenopause or what, but what I do know is that it was amazingly fascinating. It was like a jolt of hot electricity taking over my body, gradually spreading and turning up the temperature. I felt like I had a superpower!

I could have resisted the hot flashes, getting into some downward spiral about age or just wanting to be a certain temperature, something much cooler. I could have thought, “not fair!” and turned on a fan or iced my forehead. Fortunately, I wasn’t in front of an audience nor even in public when they happened, so I could sweat it out and just roll with it, undistracted, excited and curious about the currents of heat rushing through my body. I was enthralled.

When the first electric tingle started and I knew a flash was beginning, I would slowly scan my body and follow the changes—bringing awareness, but no judgement or attempt to change anything. The hot flashes lasted a few minutes at first and then they gradually got shorter. In a few weeks, they stopped happening.

During those couple of weeks, I learned how to turn on a hot flash (yay! Superpower!), although I can’t do it all the way to sweating hot any more (too bad, I guess?). The skill I was able to keep was to be able to increase my core body temperature at will. At least, to me, it feels like I am warm, which is all I really need in a cold room. Being able to do that still amazes me!

Part of the reason I was able stay present and learn from my the hot flashes is that I had already been practicing the skill of staying present during a similar experience what I could call “emotional hot flashes.” I highly recommend trying it. I basically wrote about that above in the intro to mindfulness, but it’s so important that I’ll put a variation  in its own section next. I’ll write this about dogs but you can do this with anything.

Observing Emotional Hot Flashes

Practice being present with your emotion. The next time your dog does something that triggers a negative emotional response in you (anger, frustration, fear), take these steps.

  • Turn off the storyline. If you begin thinking any words, just gently let them go and return your attention to the exercise. It’s not rude to just walk away from a conversation with yourself! Sometimes I imagine my verbal mind is like a dog asking for attention. My awareness gives it just a quick “All Done” signal and looks away.
  • Take 3 deep breath cycles (in through the nose, out through the mouth), and then breathe naturally.
  • Locate the feeling of the emotion in your body. Mentally scan for tension, heat, energy, etc. that feels like it’s related to the emotion. If you can’t locate the feeling, focus on your heartbeat or your breath moving in and out of your nose.
  • Keep your attention on the sensations without forcing anything. Allow tension to release on its own.

Sensory Check

This is a great one to do when you feel a little scattered, when you are tempted to fall into an old habit that you want to change, as a road trip exercise with bored passengers (or to wake yourself up),. or when you just want to feel grounded and present for any reason.

  • 5 things you can SEE
  • 4 things you can FEEL (physical sensations)
  • 3 things you can HEAR
  • 2 things you can SMELL
  • 1 thing you can taste

I can’t always detect two different smells without moving to a different location or smelling some part of my body, so I figure that’s fair game.

My son an I play this game a fair bit, trading sensory experiences back and forth. It can be done locally or long distance. Being present and communicating what we notice often starts some interesting conversations.

Digging Deep into Trauma Emotions with Meditation/Hypnosis

Exploring trauma is best done with a therapist, but I also have had really great success with the Trauma Care Guided Meditations by Roland Bal. They are an excellent way to do somatic work on trauma, getting into the cellular level of stored trauma.

One caveat – I have the support of a professional therapist. I think working with my therapist and the other work I have done have made these meditations more effective and help me know I have support in case I break something loose inside that needs further processing.

Here’s a video from his YouTube:

Everyday Mindfulness

One of my favorite Zen Buddhist kōans is “Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water.” I see Kōans as stories, conversations, or puzzles, designed to basically shake a student out of their old thinking and test their progress toward enlightenment. Zen isn’t a major area of study to me, but I love this kōan.

That’s probably because I’ve chopped a lot of wood and carried a lot of water in my life. I grew up without electricity and running water.  But I digress…

One of the takeaways from that kōan is that going about our everyday tasks with mindfulness is both a vehicle to enlightenment and enlightenment itself.

In other words, live your life. Truly live it. Don’t be so busy seeking experiences that you miss the fact that you are actually having experiences in every moment.

Mindful Eating

This is a great example. With each bite, savor the food. Without using words to describe it, have an experience. This can be done for drinking tea or even water, too. If you are dining with someone else, see if they will cooperate and also share this meal with you in silence. Even if you’ve had this dish before, consume it with “beginner’s mind,” i.e., with an attitude of curiosity and discovery.

  • How does it smell?
  • How does it look? Are their colors? Shapes?
  • What is the texture? How does it feel on your tongue?
  • What does chewing feel like?
  • What does it taste like?
  • Does eating make any sound?
  • How does your body feel as you consume the food? When you are no longer hungry, stop eating (not full, just no longer hungry). (I recommend putting the food away and have more if you get hungry again.)
  • Visualize (without words if possible) the many people and beings who contributed to this meal, from the plants and insects that nourished them to the people who grew the food, brought it to you, maybe even prepared it into a delicious meal. Allow a feeling of gratitude to arise, if you can.
  • Savor the faces of the people (or dogs) around you. Smile, make eye contact, laugh, as you enjoy this food together. If you are grateful for their presence, allow yourself to feel that. If you aren’t, allow yourself to feel that, too.
  • If you feel like ending with a sort of ritual, you can say “namaste” which means “I salute the divine in you.” Or you can just say “thank you!”

Washing the dishes (chop wood/carry water)

This is another everyday task that can be a lovely call to be present. Turn off your ruminations, the words in your mind, and focus on the task at hand. It may help to start out with a breathing exercise from the top of this post.

  • Feel the water on your hands
  • Look at the soap bubbles
  • Feel the satisfaction of making a dish clean
  • Your attention WILL wander. Just gently return it to what you are doing.

Mindfulness Exercises

Having a specific daily habit of meditation really helps me keep my life in perspective. Meditation is exercise for your ‘refocusing’ muscles. It can be done seated, lying down, walking, or even while walking your dog.

I adore the Headspace app, because it has guided meditations on all sorts of subjects, including some single-session recordings and a ton of 10-, 20-, and 30-day packs. I listened to the Grief Pack over and over when my husband died, and I found it immensely helpful for getting to sleep and quieting my “what if” questions.

Plus it’s gamified — it keeps track of how many minutes I’ve meditated, how many days in a row I’ve meditated, and just that is enough of a “goal” for me. There’s also a way to add friends so you have your own kind of online sangha, meditation community. This kind of meditation isn’t for everyone, but it can be really helpful. Headspace also has a section of guided tools for sleep. My favorite is actually the one designed for 9-12 year old children.

If you’re seeking a local community with a mindful approach to life, I highly recommend attending a regular meditation group or a yoga class with meditation. Places offering meditation have many different flavors, some more ‘religious’ than others. I find Insight Meditation to be a good group but there are many options. Having said that, people can be spiritually mature and still not emotionally mature. So make sure you are true to yourself and have healthy boundaries.

Dog Breath Meditation

This is a great exercise to do when your dog snuggles up next to you (or on you).

If your dog gets up during the exercise, just let him go, as long as he’s not doing something unsafe or unacceptable. Allowing your dog to move away while you’re trying to meditate is good practice in non-attachment.

  1. Observe your dog’s breath. Look for a spot on his body where it’s most obvious when he’s breathing in and out. If you do that, then go ahead and do the exercise. I try to do this whenever I notice my dog breathing. In otherwise, dog breathing becomes the cue for this meditation exercise.
  2. Get settled. Start with your body in a position that lets you have a straight spine. You don’t have to be sitting cross-legged in lotus. You can be on a chair with your feet on the floor or even lying on the ground.
  3. Double breathing. See above
  4. Take in your surroundings. For about a minute, let your senses take in the world around you – feel the surface beneath you, let sounds come to you without really thinking about them, be aware of smells, temperature, etc.
  5. Count 60 in-out cycles of your dog’s breath, keeping attention on the counting task. Just as your dog begins to inhale, mentally count “1”. When your dog breathes out, silently say a slow “Yes.” I think of it as marking the exhale, like you would with a clicker, only the Yes is just in your head.
  6. Take in your surroundings again.
  7. Ponder the experience. How was that? How did it feel to take this time to pause? It’s not always a good feeling, and that’s ok too. It might have just made you notice how active your mind is! That’s common at first. If your dog got up during the exercise, you may want to practice in a place where he’s more likely to stay put the whole time.

I do this exercise with Bean and if he’s airscenting something, it can be hard to find when his inhales and exhales are happening. In that case I just wait for his breathing to settle back down, I do the same meditation exercise with my own breathing, or I switch to my other dog, Zuki.

This exercise can be done with your own breathing, but I like doing it with the dogs at least some of the time, because then I really just pay attention instead being tempted to control my breathing. When you count your own breaths, try to just lightly pay attention to the breathing. Avoid steadying your breath or controlling it in any way while counting. That’s easier said than done and a wonderful exercise for dog training enthusiasts, who tend to have something of a control streak. 🙂

Variation: At step 0, try using your hand to feel your dog’s breath going in and out. For example, if it won’t disturb your dog, rest your hand on your dog’s chest or in front of his nose. If you can detect the timing of the breath by feel, then close your eyes at step 3 and open them at step 6. I like this variation, but sometimes when I try to do this with my dogs, I can’t quite tell in from out. I think this is easier with bigger dogs.

Variation: Without analyzing, simply notice how your dog’s breathing is not always the same. For example, sometimes they heave a big sigh and then don’t inhale for a while. Some breath cycles are short and others are longer. This is good to keep in mind for when you are counting your own breaths.

Variation: This can be done with other species, not just dogs. If you have children, you do this exercise with them in the role of the ‘dog’ when you put them to bed at night (counting out loud might be helpful).

Variation: Count your own breaths instead of your dog’s. Start with your hand on your belly (or wherever you can most easily detect in and out breaths), watching your hand move. In later sessions, close your eyes and do it by feel, hand still on your belly. After you’ve done several sessions that way, switch to just counting the breaths without using your hand, and eventually just focus on the breath for a certain amount of time using a timer. Don’t rush through the variations! I think it’s useful to experience each one many times, even if you can already do the later versions.

Try to build these exercises into your day. For example, if you’re a trainer who does house calls, take a few minutes to do the last variation of this exercise before notifying the client that you’ve arrived. If you have kids, meditate just after they fall asleep. I meditate with my dogs and the cat almost every morning before their walk, just after I have my post-breakfast tea. They’ve already snuggled in beside me on the couch for the tea drinking routine, so it’s perfect timing to slip into meditation. Those few minutes set the tone for a good connection.

Inner Puppy

One way I have built more compassion for myself is to look at my inner child as a puppy that has been trained to behave a certain way. I work with dogs who growl, bite, or run away when they are actually perfectly safe. I don’t label these dogs as “vicious” or “bad dogs.” I see their behavior as just something they learned to get their needs met. We all need to feel safe, to belong, to be satisfied.

When I see behavior (including thought patterns) in myself that I don’t want, I can bring it back to my inner puppy…what was she trying to do with this originally? Can I honor the fact that this was the best thing she could come up with at the time, that this kept me safe, gave me a sense of satisfaction, or helped me fit in? Does that emotional or behavior rule that my inner puppy came up with match my reality as an adult? Can I picture meeting my needs in a healthier way?

I’ll share this as a series of visualizations. Read this all the way through before practicing. Imagine cradling your inner puppy in your lap. If you have a calm dog or other animal you can pet while doing this, go for it. You can go through all three visualizations at once or practice them individually.

This exercise is meant to be done only with visuals, with little or no verbal thinking. If at any point you notice words in your head or you are envisioning something off topic, just gently let it go and return to the exercise.

  • Take 3 deep breath cycles and close your eyes on the last breath (unless you’re walking!) Let your breathing return to normal.
  • Without words, communicate to your inner puppy how much they are loved and cherished. Feel love flowing from your heart, into theirs, and back again. Surround them in a soft bubble, like a hug made of pure love. Tell them that they belong, just as they are, that they don’t have to be any certain way to be accepted.
  • Send a visual to your inner puppy of your strong, smart, adult self, that you will keep them safe as long as you live, that together you can bounce back from anything life will throw at you.
  • Give your inner puppy permission to be curious and free. Visualize them being guided by their own authentic drive for healthy satisfaction, tempered only by compassion. Picture your inner puppy tired after a long day of joyfully following their dreams. Feel that in your body. Take a deep breath and let out a big satisfied sigh of contentment.

Tip: When you visualize, it’s like watching a movie in your head, as if it’s already happening and you’re just now paying attention. If you have trouble visualizing, feel free to get out some drawing tools and sketch it out. My drawings are just stick figures, but they still help me walk my brain through a visualization.

[/s2If]

(4.2) Taking in the Good

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

I first encountered Rick Hanson’s books when I met a young woman named Riley. She told me that she had been committed to a mental health unit after a suicide attempt as a teenager. Riley’s boyfriend had committed suicide a year prior and she was severely depressed. In the mental health unit, she was prescribed a variety of drugs which she says she didn’t actually swallow. What she did do was read the book “Buddha’s Brain” by Rick Hanson, and apply the techniques in there. She told me that it saved her life.

I read that book and also another of his, Hardwiring Happiness: the New Brain Science of Contentment, Calm, and Confidence, which I found to be better. It’s a wonderful read and I highly recommend it. If you don’t have a lot of time, focus on the 21 exercises in chapter 10 and also the specific antidote suggestions in Table 5 (page 137-138).

So what is Taking in the Good? It is basically a strategy to notice  experiences that meet our needs and actually remember them. As we saw in Section 3, our brains are like velcro for bad stuff (noticing and remembering it easily) and teflon for good stuff (good memories don’t stick easily, they just slip away). It’s a sort of specific strategy for gratitude that is backed by neuroscience.

Taking in the good heals ‘heart holes’ – those stories we carry around with us that take away our capacity to fully feel satisfied, safe, and connected. These stories are often made up in early childhood. Our first impressions are very strong and the emotional rules we make as kids are difficult to change.

What happens when we get new information that contradicts the rule? Our minds just make stuff up. We twist and turn our stories around so that the rule still holds. If we are really sure in our gut that we aren’t lovable, but someone says they love us, then something’s wrong their judgement. ‘Maybe they don’t see the real me, or maybe they’re lying,’ for example.

Taking in the good is recognizing the antidote experiences, the situations that prove our unhealthy emotional rules wrong, and really soaking them in. Hanson is a neuroscientist and he explains that it takes about 15-30 seconds of really experiencing those antidote experiences in order to take them in properly. Otherwise our attention just slips right by it and looks for something negative to focus on.

Taking in the Good is not a one-time fix, but a lifestyle, a habit that can create a positivity bias instead of a negativity bias. Hanson gives four steps, with the acronym of HEAL:

  1. Have a positive experience (contradicts your unhealthy emotional rule)
  2. Enrich the experience (take in information with all of your senses)
  3. Absorb the experience (make a point of remembering somehow)
  4. Link positive and negative material (think about the rule and then feel your experience contradicting it)

Here’s an example from my own life.

One of my heart holes, my recurring subconscious stories about myself, is that I don’t belong. I moved to a rural area at 5 and grew up as an outsider. Deep down, below the level of words, I feel that if people really knew me for myself, they would shun me.

That’s one thing that makes this course a little hard to teach. My BAT book was fairly controversial, but this course is going out on a limb. It’s a new direction from me, from dogs to humans. My self-doubt sometimes asks “who are you to teach this material?”

I realize that’s not rational. It’s just my old conditioning, and fortunately the stories spun by self-doubt are no longer something I take seriously. No I don’t have a Ph.D. in psychology, just some graduate work. I am not a hermit, I don’t life on an ashram, I’m not a neuroscientist. But I’ve spent a lot of time and study on the techniques in this course, and I’ve used them all. This stuff isn’t all common knowledge and putting it into practice has made my life wonderful. Of course I want to teach these skills to people.

I’ve historically been a people pleaser. My whole life, to varying degrees, I have pruned away the parts of myself that I knew my friends, colleagues, or lovers didn’t like. When I take a risk to put my ideas or heart out there (as I am in the course), that’s a big deal. I’m learning to be brave and authentic all the time, now, but it’s still a big deal!

Recently, I gave a talk at a conference on a subject that I dearly love – empowering dogs to get over their fears using Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT). The audience packed the room, standing room only, to learn about the technique that I developed. As someone who subconsciously believes that she isn’t good enough and doesn’t belong, seeing my work change lives never ceases to humble and amaze me.

It would have be easy to just give the talk and move on. I do these all the time now, for the past decade. But I know that feeling appreciated is an antidote experience to the holes in my heart, so I deliberately took it in.

The H step in healing is to have a positive experience. For me, that was giving the talk and having people come up to me and say how they’ve used my techniques to help dogs. Some of them gave me hugs. A woman looked me in the eye and thanked me for making a difference. She used BAT with her lab mix and now the dog is social, just like any other dog. He belongs, too. Wow!

I went through the E step next, and enriched the experience using information from my senses, taking about 30 seconds (when I have time I like to savor the good stuff like this!).

Here’s what I can recall from my memory: I’m in a conference hotel in Portland. I can smell the coffee in the decanter on the table. I hear the bustle of people selling dog products at their booths, the clink of glasses being set down on the refreshment table.

It’s a beautiful, hot sunny day outside, but it’s cold in the hotel, air conditioned to feel like a crisp fall day. When the woman tells me about her dog, her smile is full of her love and compassion for him. She shows me a picture of them together, and another of him with his new dog friends. I can tell she wants a hug and I do, too, so I ask her if she’s a hugger and we embrace briefly. Oxytocin flows and I feel connected to this woman and to humanity.

Next I moved on and Absorbed this experience. This can be anything from visualization to just mentally telling your brain to remember this moment.

One of my favorite ways to absorb an antidote experience is to summarize it in a few words in the third person for focus (“you make a difference, Grisha”) and hold that phrase in my mind as I imagine the enriched sensory experience coalescing into a small ball of warm light on my hand. I bring the hand to my heart and the light gets sucked inside; then my heart pumps the light throughout my entire body, until I’m glowing and sharing more light with the world.

Another visualization I like is from Hardwiring Happiness, to imagine the memory as millions of little motes of pixie dust, settling over me and deep into all of my cells.

The final step is optional, to be done when you feel really solid about the earlier steps. Linking that positive experience to a negative one, so that the triggers for feeling the hole in your heart start bringing up the antidote experience instead. It’s like a cue transfer, so situations that used to trigger negative thoughts will pull up the good memories you’ve taken in.

You basically start thinking of things that trigger your old stories, and then shift back to taking in the good before the feelings overwhelm you. That’s similar to how you might do a cue transfer, by lightly knocking on a door and then immediately cuing the dog to go to his bed. The “Go to Bed” cue needs to be pre-trained with positive reinforcement, just as Taking in the Good needs to be practiced before pairing it with negative experiences.

As I mentioned I sometimes find myself wondering who I am to give life advice. I know intellectually I have studied an immense amount and learned some powerful things to share. I know that I love my life and want others to have a similar experience.

But I can also picture the critics. So in the Linking step, I briefly imagine judgmental Facebook comments, and before my heart freezes solid and doubt overwhelms me, I can go back to that stored memory that I deliberately took in.

I can relive the experience of a trainer sharing how my work made a difference to her, and the ice in my belly melts. I picture the glow of her gratitude lighting me up and spreading out to others. I picture the other memories of talking to people and connecting with them, helping them by sharing the resources I’ve found. And I think, this personal work…this is also powerful stuff and more people need to know about it.

You might be thinking, “well that works for you because you write books. I don’t make a big difference.” First, question that limiting belief. You probably do make a big difference to some of the people in your life. And even if you don’t, it’s the small things that matter. The authentic smile you gave to the grocery clerk and how it made her smile back for a moment. The dog whose life is better because you gave his caregiver a better way to understand him.

Once you start looking for memories to take in, you’ll see them everywhere. Take in several things a day, and they end up taking up all the mental space that used to be taken by negativity.

One of my most cherished antidote moments was simply sitting beside a friend who was worried.  I just sat there, breathing in, breathing out until he calmed down. I didn’t say a word. I didn’t need to. Later, he said, “thank you for your you,” and it had the most powerful impact on my heart. I later revisited that memory over and over, to boost me out of a time where I was feeling like I didn’t belong. That’s a priceless memory, and without deliberately taking the good, I might have lost it forever.

Here’s Rick Hanson describing Taking in the Good, which turns passing experiences into neurological support structures for happiness and resilience.

[/s2If]

(3.4) Gratitude Can Change Your Brain Chemistry

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

What is Gratitude?

Gratitude practices basically rewire our brain to pay more attention to the feeling of gratitude, balancing out our negativity bias.  A little daily gratitude list can change your brain chemistry. It’s like doing surgery on yourself, but in a really safe way.

What is gratitude? It’s more than just being thankful to someone else for helping you. A fairly recent review of gratitude research uses this definition: “Gratitude is part of a wider life orientation towards noticing and appreciating the positive in the world. This life orientation should be distinct from other emotions such as optimism, hope, and trust. Whilst these may involve life orientations, these would not characteristically be towards noticing and appreciating the positive in life, with, for example, optimism representing a life orientation towards expecting future outcomes, and hope incorporating this focus as well as tendency to see the pathways through which these positive outcomes can be reached.”

Evidence indicates that gratitude causes happiness, not just the other way around or a loose correlation. Gratitude can build resilience in people of all ages, and improves just about every other measure of well-being, too.

So that means this meme is scientifically verified. 🙂

Image result for grateful people are happy

And this one:

Image result for grateful people are happy

How to Express Gratitude

Here are some habits that can give you a chance to exercise your gratitude muscle.

Be creative, find a way that works for you. The key is to take time savoring little tiny (or big) unique events that evoke a feeling of gratitude in yourself.

  • Gratitude Journal. This is a standard one. My spin on it is that I do it on my phone. I have a little text document and I put the date and then at least 3 things I’m grateful for. I try to picture the thing I’m grateful for and the feeling it evokes so that I can really remember it and combat the negativity bias.
  • Gratitude Jar: I have a jar with a pad of paper beside it. When I’m home and happen to think of a gratitude (or get in a dark mood and want to pull myself out of it), I write out a little thing I’m thankful for. If you need encouragement, you could have a little snack jar right there, so you “pay” for your snack by writing a gratitude slip.
  • Social Media: Express gratitude whenever you can, just make sure it’s really about expressing gratitude and not about making yourself look good for being gracious or having a lot of stuff. I have created a Gratitude Thread in our private Facebook group. Feel free to comment there any time you want.
  • Gratitude Calendar: This is a spin on the gratitude journal. On each day in the calendar (on the wall or in your phone), write or draw 3 things you’re grateful for.
  • Verbal Gratitudes: This is great for couples or parents/kids. Say three things you’re grateful for, back and forth. “Me-too” duplicates don’t count for your three.
  • Pose the Question: During meditation, ask yourself, in the third-person voice, “Who or what are you grateful for?” Don’t try to answer it, just let answers flow up. It’s tempting to start using your conscious mind to reply. Just put the question out there and focus on your breathing. Feel free to simply repeat the question if your mind starts to wander. The idea is to plant the question in your psyche, NOT to start working on the answers. Having a continual attitude of looking for things to be grateful for is super helpful.
  • Visual gratitudes: I’m no artist, but I found it especially fun to do little drawings of my daily gratitudes. This can be done on a calendar, on blank paper, on a marker board, or even on your wall! Another person I know took a photo every day of something she was grateful for, and posted it on her Instagram. Poetry, music, sculpture, dance, and any other art can be used to express gratitude.
  • Just Say It: Just tell someone when you are grateful for something that they do. NVC statements are great for this, but a simple, “I’m so grateful that are here today, thank you!” is plenty. If no one’s around, you can still say it out loud. Works especially well if you have a spiritual recipient in mind, but you can also just talk to yourself.

On that note, I’ll express my gratitude here! Thanks for being in this course. I’m so grateful to be on this journey with you. We are never done learning these things. Teaching is one of the best ways to get new insights and I also appreciate having a community to explore these topics with.

Other Ways to Change Brain Chemistry

I felt really empowered when I learned that my activities, thoughts, and behaviors could change the chemistry of my brain. Gratitude is one useful, healthy way to change brain chemistry.

Our brains’ chemical makeup and response can be trained through our activities. Powerful choices include meditation, eating to nourish the brain and body, and activities that stimulate the vagus nerve.

I encourage you to read this additional article on the vagus nerve and PTSD, even if you (or your dog) don’t have PTSD, because we all have some experience with trauma.

Here’s another thing. Our minds affect our body language, but the reverse is also true. Check out this TED Talk about how 2 minutes a day of changing your posture can change your hormone levels and outlook.

[/s2If]

(3.3) Assumptions: Labels, Attribution Errors, Cognitive Distortion, etc.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Labels Aren’t Helpful for People, Either

In the dog training field, there’s a movement in the last several years to unlabel the dogs. Susan Friedman, Ph.D. urges us to stop saying “aggressive dog,” “fearful dog,” “alpha dog,” etc. because it makes it seem like that behavior is an unchangeable part of the dog’s personality.

Susan Friedman’s sticker and other handouts are downloadable at BehaviorWorks.org

No dog is aggressive 100% all the time. She might show behavior that we would call aggressive in a certain situation. But she’s not an “aggressive dog,” she’s a dog with emotional reactions to stimuli and habitual ways of responding. We know how to change habits.

Labeling a dog tends to limit the way we thinking about how to change their habits.  Taking off the label and looking at what meets the need or craving is much more productive.

The same goes for you. Maybe someone in your past diagnosed you with a mental illness (bipolar, schizophrenia, depression, anxiety) and eventually you took it on as a label, as a part of your identity. It isn’t. Those things are all habitual ways of responding to your environment, things you’ve picked up along the way.

You are not your diagnosis.

And if you don’t have a diagnosis, that doesn’t make you any better of a person than someone who does. I find I only get judgmental when I’m feeling insecure about my own worth. Whenever I feel solid, I can see the good in others. I might still need to set boundaries on behavior, but if I find myself looking down on someone else, it’s a sign that my own self-confidence is low, and I need to work on it.

We are all good, at our core, and we are all doing the best we can. Some folks do have more behavior that doesn’t serve themselves (or others) than others. But that’s fixable, to the person who truly wants to change. Healthier behavior and thoughts can be learned.

Behavior (including thoughts and the release of chemicals in your brain) is responsive to ‘distant and proximal antecedents” – stimuli that come before the behavior, either way before (distant) or right before (proximal). Food, alcohol, drugs (including sugar & coffee), exercise, sleep, past experiences,…all of that goes into how we view and respond to the world.

The moment you view BEHAVIOR as being mentally unhealthy versus a character flaw, a world of possibilities opens up. You don’t have to change yourself – that’s not possible, anyway.

Your spirit is wonderful, totally lovable and 100% acceptable.

You are not your behavior.

That said, you are responsible for your behavior and can be the architect of better choices. It’s not easy – engineering your own healthier choices is a skill that you get better with over time. So at first it seems really impossible. But it isn’t. Change one thing, and another. Build momentum.

If you don’t yet feel equanimity (a steady, warm state in which you feel comfortable with yourself and others without hostility), you *would benefit* from a change in your mental and external behavior.

[Just for the record I still have blips where I totally get sucked into my emotions and identify with them, like diving into a pool. But I do come up for air much more quickly now and recognize that those feelings are things I have, they aren’t me. I’m patient and love myself where I’m at. I can’t wait for perfection before I love myself, because loving myself IS part of the perfection. I might as well start now! I’m pretty sure I can’t fully reach perfection in one lifetime, anyway.]

Totally healthy brains can learn unhealthy ways of responding. When you repeat things enough, you build a habit, which eventually might be considered to just be part of who you are.

But it isn’t. Your mental and external habits are just strategies you learned to help meet your needs, and some of them are getting in the way of meeting your other needs. It takes time and effort to go through your own mental ‘garden’ and figure out which parts are authentic/healthy and which parts are weeds, choking out the health of the other plants.

Observing your behavior and thoughts with love is immensely powerful. Every behavior you have is there because it was (or seemed) useful at the time. But that doesn’t mean that you need to keep doing it.

Cognitive Dissonance

The following is am excerpt from my book, Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 New Practical Techniques for Fear, Frustration, and Aggression in Dogs (edited for brevity).

Cognitive Dissonance is the feeling we get when we simultaneously believe two ideas that can’t both be true. It is an uncomfortable feeling to hold onto conflicting opinions and the theories on cognitive dissonance in social psychology is that humans work hard to avoid this state of being. Here are some examples of conflicting ideas:

  1. “I want to be thin,” “I love chocolate,” and “chocolate makes you fat.”
  2. “I have trained with choke chains,” and “Training with choke chains is inhumane,” and “I am a good person.”

The theory of cognitive dissonance proposes that people have an innate motivational drive to reduce dissonance. People get rid of cognitive dissonance in different ways. One way is to simply avoid thinking about the conflict. So the chocolate-loving per­son may just put the desire to be thin out of her head when eating chocolate.

Or she may change behavior or add another belief, so there is no conflict, after all. For example, if you add on exercise: “My workout burns those chocolate calories,” or wishful thinking: “Calories only count if you eat them while sitting, so I will eat my chocolate standing up!” then the dissonance is reduced. She could also remove one of the beliefs: “Being super thin doesn’t matter” or edit one of them: “A small amount of chocolate in a balanced diet does not make you fat.” We have a lot of creative ways to reduce dissonance. Some of them totally remove the dissonance and others just bring it down to a manageable level.

Taking a look at the second line, you’ll see an example of the quandary that a trainer may have after her first exposure to positive training. Seeing that positive reinforce­ment training produces reliable results may have made her realize that choke chains are unnecessary. If they are not necessary and they are aversive, the trainer has been using inhumane training. But only bad people do inhumane things, and she is a good person! Her head threatens to spin off of her neck unless she can get rid of the cogni­tive dissonance.

At this point, she has at least three choices in order to continue to believe she is a good person: become a “crossover trainer” and decide to stop using choke chains, become a “balanced trainer” by eliminating the belief that choke chains are unnecessary, or discount her learning of positive training altogether and go back to her old way of training. (If you’re in this boat, I hope you choose the first option!)

Here’s a good video from the University of Texas at Austin’s Ethics Unwrapped series on Youtube:

Having healthy boundaries is a good way to resolve cognitive dissonance in a way that maintains your integrity. I believe that one of the roots of depression is resolving cognitive dissonance in unhealthy ways (essentially lying to oneself by justifying behavior that doesn’t match one’s ethics).

  1. Never ignore your guilty feelings. Analyze it honestly.
  2. Study the ways our brains distance us from immoral actions
  3. Get to know the most common justifications used, and when you notice them in yourself (or others), see that as a red flag. For example, “everyone does this,” or “this is the way it’s always been done.”

Getting rid of cognitive dissonance by any means necessary is one way our brains trick us. Another is the Backfire Effect, which the Oatmeal describes so well, that I’ll just link to it.

Next, let’s talk about why people mess up. Is it something about them or is it circumstances?

Cognitive Distortions

Our brains are really skilled at “automatic thinking,” which helps us to quickly understand our life experience. Unfortunately, we are also good at cognitive distortions, which gives us a view of the world that has very little to do with how another might see it. Trauma will often skew the way we interpret words, facial expressions, and other people’s intentions. Erring on the side of “I’m in danger”,  “don’t trust them,” etc. can prevent us from getting hurt, but they also block true intimacy.

I’ve been on both sides of cognitive distortions – we all have. By living with a man who I loved unconditionally who was often overcome by his cognitive distortions, I started really seeing these for what they were — attempts to feel safe and loved that backfired and ultimately just kept him from seeing how many people loved him. His world became very lonely, because he couldn’t trust other people’s intentions toward him. And while his distortions were frequent and large, I realized that I have them too. We all do.

Personally, when these crop up, I’ve learned to check others’ intentions as soon as I can. I try to keep my own intentions clear and clean, coming from a place of love and not fear. I surround myself with people whose intentions I trust, and work hard not to let distortions break that trust. Each time I ‘reality check’ and ask how they meant something, rather than trusting my own worst fears, I remove a little of the artificial distance between us.

Here’s a list of cognitive distortions from Wikipedia. In the original article, several of these distortions are explored more deeply in additional articles.

Always being right
In this cognitive distortion, being wrong is unthinkable. This distortion is characterized by actively trying to prove one’s actions or thoughts to be correct, and sometimes prioritizing self-interest over the feelings of another person.

Blaming
Blaming is the opposite of personalization. In the blaming distortion, other people are held responsible for the harm they cause, and especially for their intentional or negligent infliction of emotional distress.

Disqualifying the positive
Discounting positive events, such as scoring highly on an exam but not achieving a perfect score.

Emotional reasoning
In the emotional reasoning distortion, we assume that feelings expose the true nature of things and experience reality as a reflection of emotionally linked thoughts; we think something is true solely based on a feeling.

Examples: “I feel stupid, therefore I must be stupid”. Feeling fear of flying in planes, and then concluding that planes must be a dangerous way to travel. Feeling overwhelmed by the prospect of cleaning one’s house, therefore concluding that it’s hopeless to even start cleaning.

Fallacy of change
Relying on social control to obtain cooperative actions from another person [This is one I think dog trainers and behavior geeks may be especially prone to.]

Fallacy of fairness
The belief that life should be fair. When life is perceived to be unfair, an angry emotional state is produced which may lead to attempts to correct the situation.

Jumping to conclusions
Reaching preliminary conclusions (usually negative) with little (if any) evidence. Two specific subtypes are identified:

Mind reading
Inferring a person’s possible or probable (usually negative) thoughts from his or her behavior and nonverbal communication; taking precautions against the worst suspected case without asking the person.

Example: A student assumes that the readers of his or her paper have already made up their minds concerning its topic, and, therefore, writing the paper is a pointless exercise.
Fortune-telling: predicting outcomes (usually negative) of events

Labeling and mislabeling
A form of overgeneralization; attributing a person’s actions to his or her character instead of to an attribute. Rather than assuming the behavior to be accidental or otherwise extrinsic, one assigns a label to someone or something that is based on the inferred character of that person or thing.

Magnification and minimization
Giving proportionally greater weight to a perceived failure, weakness or threat, or lesser weight to a perceived success, strength or opportunity, so that the weight differs from that assigned by others, such as “making a mountain out of a molehill”. In depressed clients, often the positive characteristics of other people are exaggerated and their negative characteristics are understated.

Catastrophizing
Giving greater weight to the worst possible outcome, however unlikely, or experiencing a situation as unbearable or impossible when it is just uncomfortable

Overgeneralizing
Making hasty generalizations from insufficient evidence. Drawing a very broad conclusion from a single incident or a single piece of evidence. Even if something bad happens only once, it is expected to happen over and over again.

Example: A woman is lonely and often spends most of her time at home. Her friends sometimes ask her to dinner and to meet new people. She feels it is useless to even try. No one really could like her.

Personalizing
Attributing personal responsibility, including the resulting praise or blame, to events over which the person has no control.

Making “must” or “should” statements
Making “must” or “should” statements was included by Albert Ellis in his rational emotive behavior therapy (REBT), an early form of CBT; he termed it “musturbation”. Michael C. Graham called it “expecting the world to be different than it is”. It can be seen as demanding particular achievements or behaviors regardless of the realistic circumstances of the situation.

Example: After a performance, a concert pianist believes he or she should not have made so many mistakes.
In Feeling Good: The New Mood Therapy, David Burns clearly distinguished between pathological “should statements”, moral imperatives, and social norms.
A related cognitive distortion, also present in Ellis’ REBT, is a tendency to “awfulize”; to say a future scenario will be awful, rather than to realistically appraise the various negative and positive characteristics of that scenario.

Splitting (All-or-nothing thinking, black-or-white thinking, dichotomous reasoning)
Evaluating the self, as well as events in life in extreme terms. It is either all good or all bad, either black or white, nothing in between. Even small imperfections seem incredibly dangerous and painful. Splitting involves using terms like “always”, “every” or “never” when they are false and misleading.

Fundamental Attribution Error

“Attribution” is what we believe is the cause of someone’s behavior. It can be “dispositional attribution,” meaning that it’s something about the character of the person that caused the behavior. It can also be” situational attribution,” meaning that we believe people’s behavior is shaped by their circumstances.

Study after study shows us that situational attribution is more accurate, but we often use dispositional attribution with other people. That’s the “fundamental attribution error,” the error that we are sort of hardwired to make, in part because we are almost never aware of all of the external and internal events that led up to other people’s behavior.

With anxiety and depression, the fundamental attribution error sometimes gets made in reverse. An anxious person might be able to justify other people’s behavior as responses to their environment, but think that they themselves are flawed, that good things happen to them only because of pure luck, and that their own mistakes are due to a character flaw, rather than just what they’ve learned to react to the situation. There’s a self-defeating attitude of “I can’t do this” versus “I can’t do this YET.”

Honestly, I think that’s why meditation and other mindfulness tools can combat depression and anxiety. The more we understand how our own behavior is shaped by circumstances, the more we can learn to give ourselves a break and work on changing what we can of the circumstance. That empowers our physical and emotional behavior to change in response. Making one little change is a HUGE, wonderful first step, it creates a little crack in the wall of dark impossibility, a glimmer of hope.

But let’s get back to the fundamental attribution error. The following is is another excerpt from, BAT 2.0:

When we ourselves behave in some way, we tend to think of it as being justified, even if it turned out to be a mistake (unless we are depressed or overly self-critical). When someone else makes a mistake, we tend to attribute it to a character flaw. This difference in how we look at behavior done by “us” versus “them” is the fundamental attribution error at work.

For example, let’s say you’re on a walk and your dog poops in someone’s yard. Sud­denly, you realize you have no bags, so you make a mental note to come back later to scoop it up. You know the whole situation and you know that your decision to walk away was based on what just happened. But the neighbor sees you walking away without scooping and calls you a lazy, inconsiderate dog walker. You knew that your behavior happened for a reason, but the other guy assumed there was something in­herently wrong with you.

According to the research of social psychologists, people have a tendency to look for character flaws to explain bad behavior, rather than looking for a situational explana­tion. It’s kind of like the opposite of functional analysis and it’s the reason why dogs are labeled as “dominant” or “stubborn” rather than “under-socialized” or “under­motivated.”

In ourselves and those close to us, we tend to create situational explana­tions of behavior (unless we are in a conflict with them over the behavior in question). With others, we tend to just write them off entirely as being fundamentally flawed. As another example, you probably have some explanation for why your dog may lunge on a walk, but if another dog does that, you might think of that dog as a bad dog, or that the dog’s handler is a jerk for walking too close to your dog.

I’m writing about this here for two reasons. First, make sure that you remember to look for situational explanations of your dog’s behavior (and then use those to train alternative behaviors). This empowers you and your dog: you can change the environ­ment, and thus the behavior. Character flaws have a fixed property, so we just give up.

Second, the fundamental attribution error applies to other trainers, too. “Positive” trainers tend to see a character flaw in “traditional” trainers who use physical punish­ment, thinking of them as inhumane or cruel, too stupid to learn good, modern train­ing. Conversely, traditional trainers tend to see character flaws in “cookie pushers,” thinking that we are weak people who don’t have the stomach for real training.

Both sides think that the other does harm and that their own behavior is justified, so we don’t empathize, look for common ground, or use our well-honed behavior modifica­tion skills. While I don’t always agree with the explanations that other people have for their behavior, remembering that they do not necessarily have character flaws, gives me the empathy to reach out to find a strategy that meets both of our needs.

Every one of us has some justification for our behavior that may be hard to stop believing, due to the cognitive dissonance problem that I mentioned before. Knowing that lets us empathize with one another and gives us a chance to create a better world together.

Here’s another UT Austin ethics video:

Compassion for all, including ourselves, is the root of happiness. Let’s plant some joy.

[/s2If]

(3.2) Negativity Bias and Other Brain ‘Fun’ Facts

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

What’s ‘Normal’ for a Brain?

In terms of the way the emotional brain works, you and a dog are not so different. Yes, humans have a more complex system than canines, but the mammalian brain has a lot of common features.  The way you and your dog learn tasks and make emotional associations is not so different.

We humans go through the equivalent of puppy socialization, made more complicated by the existence of language.

When we are very young our brains are in a receptive, almost hypnotic state, and we aren’t yet capable of critical thinking. We don’t have the ability to tell fact from fiction, we just absorb whatever our caregivers teach us, both intentionally and accidentally. Early lessons are quickly internalized, cemented in as rules for living and belonging, even when they aren’t true or useful in your adult life.

This especially applies to emotional learning, such as “men who have been drinking are scary,” “love is conditional: I have to be perfect/good/attractive/quiet/loud/smart to be worthy of love,” or “crying is shameful/dangerous/weak.” When we learn something along the way that contradicts our rules, our brains often just make an exception instead of updating the rules to be more accurate.

Those emotional rules lead to behavior, such as approach or avoidance. Whatever we do is then subject to reinforcement.

If a behavior works for us, dopamine is released in our brains and we are more likely to try it again in the future. If it doesn’t get us what we need, eventually that behavior is extinguished: we change it up and try something else. Behavior exists to change the environment we are in, to help us meet our needs or satisfy our wants. As Susan Friedman, Ph.D. is fond of saying, “that’s what your behavior is for,” similar to how your eyes are for seeing or ears are for hearing. We offer behavior to produce some effect.

Thoughts are a type of behavior. No one else can see your mental behavior, but you can rest in awareness and observe your thoughts, so they are behavior. And as I mentioned in the habits section, thoughts are behaviors that can be reinforced (or not).

And guess what else? Our brains release dopamine when we come across a story that explains something, even when the story does not match consensus reality. That little AHA you get is a hit of dopamine. For example, if you text your boyfriend during the day and he doesn’t text back in the time you expect, your brain starts making up stories. He’s dead. He got hit by a car at lunch. He’s cheating on you with a bombshell barista because you aren’t attractive enough. AHA!!!

When you find a story that matches your internal story about yourself, it’s whoosh…dopamine! You’ve hit a small emotional jackpot (even if you’re sad about the story you just came up with). We have a winner! Your brain just reinforced your mental behavior of coming up with that story. That is, you’re more likely to come up with similar stories in the future, even if they contradict some of the facts. You might even go on a storywriting binge and come up with detailed scenarios based your worst fears.

For example, if one of your early lessons was that love is conditional, i.e., you feel you aren’t lovable as you are, then you need to do something or be a certain way to enough to earn it and keep it. Your thoughts tell you that you have to be pretty / rich / smart / pious / fun / interesting / adventurous / helpful / perfect to be loveable.

Then if your jealousy starts to spin a story that your boyfriend has found someone to replace you, someone who is more worthy of love, you get a dopamine hit when it clicks in with your shame trigger: “hey! That matches the Truth I learned as a kid (I’m not lovable). Let’s stick with that one.” Now you’re miserable. Kind of weird, how the human brain can reinforce the behavior of creating destructive thoughts!

Or maybe you start pondering ways to make him ashamed for not writing you back. When he texts back to say he was just in an afternoon work meeting, you might be relieved for the moment (or not), but it probably doesn’t make you question that “rule” that love is to be earned.

By the way, wanting someone to feel ashamed tells you about your own feelings at that moment. Shaming someone else (even in your head) is a good indicator that you might be feeling shamed by them. That could mean they really were trying to shame you or that in your gut, you feel like you don’t belong, and you’ve projected the emotion on them, meaning you think it comes from them, but it really comes from your own self-doubt.

If you ever have trouble knowing how you feel, try noticing how you want other people to feel. Our relationships are often mirrors that reflect our own feelings back.

So here’s an idea. Go “small” – temporarily unleash the cruel, hurting version of yourself, in secret. Write the person an unedited letter saying everything you want to tell them, but don’t send it. Say whatever mean nasty things your subconscious is spewing out. Set the letter aside and look at it later to see how you were trying to make them feel. That will give you an insight about how you are feeling, what emotion that person triggered in you. Chances are, it wasn’t their intention at all.

The up side of this “misery loves company” brain feature is that if we are feeling safe, loved, and satisfied, we also want other people to feel that, too. That’s one of the reasons why it’s so important to work on yourself, to allow yourself to know that you are enough, that you belong. Be one of the people who never abandons you.

Trust that your love is enough to keep the people who are truly good for you in your life.

Working through your own triggers is the best way to help your loved ones. You will be more present and more compassionate, plus they may learn from your example of allowing yourself to feel and express your emotions. Nondefensiveness is contagious. Learning how to live wholeheartedly and open yourself to authentic joy is a great way to help your whole tribe grow.

Negativity Bias

One of the best things you can do for yourself (and your tribe) is to note when something called “negativity bias” is skewing the way you perceive a situation.

Teenagers are well known for having a negativity bias: “my entire life and existence sucks!” when a particular moment in time doesn’t go their way. As we get older, people generally can differentiate between a bad moment and a bad life, but that’s not always the case (for example, when depression makes it hard to pull out of that bias). But even as adults, we all have a negativity bias, to a greater or lesser degree. Here’s an example:

Have you ever had a really great day, but then you make a mistake or someone says one hurtful thing to you (or something you think is hurtful). Suddenly it’s hard to remember the good stuff and life seems terrible for a second/minute/day/month/year.

The awesome part about brains is their plasticity; this is changeable. We can train ourselves recognize and overcome our negativity bias.

Once we know how our brains can naturally twist things, we can take it into account and see events more clearly. We can stop feeding attention to the downside of life and start helping ourselves take note of and remember the good stuff.

Having a negativity bias is not something to beat yourself up about, no more than being upset that your lungs breathe air and not water, or that you don’t see movement as well as dogs. Negativity bias is a totally normal ‘feature’ of how our human brains learn. Negative events have more ‘weight’ for us than positive or neutral events. We take note of the bad things that happen to us much more easily than the good things.

That comes in handy when learning not to be eaten by wild animals. Your ancient ancestors benefitted from quickly learning to avoid deadly situations.

Unfortunately, psychological safety releases pretty much the same set of neurochemicals as physical safety. So we have a bunch of negatively biased humans walking around, relating to each other from a place of not feeling safe. Just like dogs, feeling unsafe can come out as defensive behavior like avoidance or aggression. That is often not safe for the receiver of said behavior, so our lack of trust is proven right. It’s a vicious cycle.

When information comes in from our senses, our brains flag when things go wrong and don’t make a fuss when things are going well. For example, if you’re walking along on the grass, it would be inefficient for your brain to make a note and remember the soft grass experienced at every single step. So unless we deliberately focus on the present, it’s kind of just a background hum of easily forgotten non-danger. When something different comes along, the brain flags it—“hey, sharp rocks here!”

So the map of our experience isn’t filled in with equal levels of detail. The danger spots have a lot of detail and the safe spots are kind of vague, kind of like a map that hasn’t fully downloaded. Maybe a few really amazing happy experiences stand out, but the bulk of your day doesn’t stand out in memory.

Fortunately, we can deliberately change what information we store about our experiences, to combat the negativity bias. In his book, “Hardwiring Happiness,” Rick Hanson describes a process called “taking in the good,” which I’ll describe in another lesson in this section.

For now, just take note of two things. First, we are biologically biased to keep track of what’s wrong, i.e., when something needs to change in order to get back to what we expect or desire. Second, that bias just changes the probability of seeing good versus bad and with practice, we can change that bias.

So while we are more likely to naturally focus on what’s gone wrong, we can train our brains to do something different. Not so different from training a border collie, but this one is in our heads.

How cool is that?!

[/s2If]

Live Video Recordings for Each Section (From Facebook)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Each section of the How to Human course will have two videos, one meant to be viewed before you do the Pause to Practice homework and one after. If you haven’t joined the Facebook group yet, please request to join.

Facebook Links

Here’s the link to the videos in the Facebook group, if you want to read the comments and add your own. The videos are also below this list.


Section 1: Habits


Section 2: Feelings, Needs, Boundaries, & Communication (NVC & Essentialism)


Section 3: The Border Collie in Your Head


Section 4: Being Present


Section 5: Stillness and Unconditional Love


Section 6: Impermanence, Groundlessness, and Letting Be


[/s2If]

(3.5) Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

  1. How is your habit change going? Take an honest look at whether you’re keeping up with the plan to change a habit that you made in the first week.
    If not, see if a. the problem is that there are reminders to do the old habit that haven’t been changed to cue the new habit, b. you need a more immediate reinforcement for doing the new habit, and/or c. the new habit does not actually meet the craving of the hold habit. Change something to set yourself up for success. Post in our How to Human Facebook group if you need help with your plan.
  2. Habit audit. Do your habits match your values and needs more than they did in week 1? If not, are there some habits you might consider changing now?
  3. Build a habit of gratitude. From the section on Gratitude, find one of the options that works best for you, and start doing it.
  4. Notice real-world examples of the Negativity Bias, Fundamental Attribution Error, and Cognitive Dissonance. Best case is catching that in yourself, but noticing in others is fair game, too. If you have time, post one of your observations in our Facebook group.
  5. BONUS: To quickly learn more about some other “fun” brain glitches and how to overcome them, check out this TED article by Joan Rosenberg: “5 irrational thinking patterns that could be dragging you down — and how to start challenging them.” She explores all-or-nothing thinking, overgeneralization, taking things personally / taking excessive responsibility, and should statements. It’s definitely worth a read!

[/s2If]

(2.3) Resolving conflict and building empathy with Nonviolent Communication (NVC)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Learning Nonviolent Communication (NVC or also Compassionate Communication) was huge for me. For years, I thought NVC was basically just about being nice, so I didn’t look into it. I figured that I was actually pretty nice and nonviolent already.

I also tried to follow the Buddhist precept of Right Speech, which has us ask ourselves the following questions before speaking:

  • Is it true?
  • Is is necessary?
  • Is it kind?
  • Is it the right time?

Those are great guidelines to follow, but I needed more specifics to really hone my communication skills and truly connect in an undefended way.

As the Center for Nonviolent Communication writes, “NVC reminds us what we already instinctively know about how good it feels to authentically connect to another human being.”

I looked into NVC to find a way to nourish some friendships that were very sensitive to defensiveness. I wanted to communicate without accidentally triggering the other people’s defensiveness, and I also wanted to make sure I wasn’t just a doormat, not sharing how I felt or what I needed in order to avoid their triggers. I wanted more vulnerable, authentic relationships.

NVC works great for me because it takes the approach that all behavior can be seen as attempts to meet needs. I firmly believe that. It’s at the root of my empowerment approach to dog care and the way I interact with people, including myself. As Thom Bond writes about this approach to human behavior:

“I do not claim this is true or not true. It is a way of seeing things. I DO claim that when I have this ‘perspective’ or ‘awareness’ – when I can see my own actions or the actions of others in a context of human needs, I experience more understanding, connection, and harmony.

Having a need-based approach to behavior helps me remember how much in common I have with others. Behavior that seems completely irrational can make sense through this lens.

NVC is philosophy, but it’s also a precise and effective communication tool to honestly share what’s alive in us. The basic idea of NVC is to describe what’s happening from a feelings and needs perspective, to build empathy so all parties can look for a strategy that takes everyone’s needs into account.

NVC was developed by Marshall Rosenberg and it’s been used to negotiate between countries that are at war. It’s so simple and yet so disarmingly effective in all types relationships.

NVC Steps:

  1. Observation
  2. Feelings [Feelings Inventory]
  3. Needs [Needs Inventory]
  4. Request [only for unmet needs]

Steps 1-3 shouldn’t bring up any defenses, because it starts with a statement of what actually happened, as a camera would record it. Steps 2 and 3 are about the person speaking, so they build empathy, not defensiveness. Step 4 is a request and the person might say no to it, but hopefully has empathy for the speaker and is willing to find another strategy to meet their needs.

Here’s a recent example from my life. I messaged a question to a friend of a friend, let’s call her Jane, who had never met me. She sent back her disapproval of me and my behavior using insults and shaming.

My first response was to get angry. I’m human. I wanted to write her a letter to put her in my place, to let her know I’m totally competent and awesome and in fact she is a bitch.

That lasted about 1 second and then I crafted a much more subtle letter in my head that still fed my ego and reminded her she was the one who should be ashamed of this kind of language.

I soon became aware that I was getting hooked by a story I was telling myself. My anger was a flag to me that she was probably feeling upset with me. How did I feel under the anger? Ashamed, her words were shaming. That’s my clue.

I know from Brené Brown’s fabulous research on shame that if Jane was trying to shame me, then she probably thought I had been trying to shame her, and she was defending herself in this way.

First I double checked that she really was using shaming language and I wasn’t just projecting my own emotion. Nope, she really was deliberately insulting me.

Ok. So my second wave of response was to just take the high road and ignore it. But that felt icky, it didn’t meet my need for authenticity, for harmony.

So I doubled down on vulnerability. I shared my emotional response to what I had observed and requested what I needed.

  1. When…[describe what happened in an objective way]
  2. I felt
  3. Because I need
  4. Would you be willing to…?

I started with some empathy for her, then moved into the four NVC steps to request a strategy to meet my need:

As you mentioned, you don’t really know me, so you wouldn’t know that when I interact with people, I’m not ever looking for ways to hurt them. Texts can be read in multiple ways, so I’d like to clarify why I asked that question and apologize if it came off as questioning your competence…

When you responded to my question with an insult, I felt guarded and uncomfortable, because I have a need for harmony and cooperation, and to be seen. In the future, if you think that I have said something hurtful, would you be willing to ask me to clarify my intention?

Her defensiveness melted on the spot and we were able to talk more by Messenger, meet up in person later that day, and actually enjoy each other’s company.

Note: be careful of using pseudo-feelings instead of feelings. Pseudo-feelings are words that we call feelings in the English language, but they’re actually describing the story of what the other person did to us or how we think we are. Examples: “like a loser,” “abandoned,” “unloved,” “attacked.”

Sharing pseudo-feelings tends to be seen as an accusation, so people get defensive and stop being able to really see you

Split that into feelings and needs, instead. Instead of “like a loser,” (which is a story of who I am, not how I feel), the non-defensive NVC phrasing would be, “I felt ashamed, because my need for competence and belonging was not met.” Instead of “attacked” (which accuses the other person of attacking), one could say, “I felt uneasy because my needs for love and empathy were not met.” Rather than “unloved,” one could say, “I felt sad and lonely because my needs to be seen, to be loved, and to belong were not met.”

Note: NVC is also great for powerful expressions of gratitude. For example, I could say to you, “when you post on Facebook in response to this course, I feel warm and grateful, because my needs for harmony, contribution, and community are met. Thank you so much!”

I highly recommend reading Marshall Rosenberg’s original book on NVC. It’s a life-changer, for sure. It’s also available in audio format.

Here’s a great modern video on using NVC with children. She has three videos about kids and a ton of other NVC videos on her YouTube channel.

[/s2If]

References and Resources

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

This is a growing list. Please check back for updates! If you know of a resource that you think I’m really missing out on, please share it in the Facebook group and tag me. I only include books and resources I’ve read/used myself so it may take me time to share your favorite here. The lists are alphabetical.

6 Books that I wish everyone in the world would read:

Also helpful:

Useful websites and digital products

  • The Center for Nonviolent Communication (online lessons, in-person courses, coach certification)
  • Cup of Empathy YouTube channel (NVC)
  • Daily Om (newsletter, amazing online classes on all sorts of spiritual and practical topics, from how to parent your inner child or help someone else with an addiction to chakradancing)
  • Headspace (App for gamified meditation – “Meditation and Sleep Made Simple)
  • Hearing Voices Network (This is the USA link, but HVN is a worldwide mental health human rights movement. HVN groups offer peer support to anyone experiencing extreme states, from voice hearing to visions, or other experiences outside of consensus reality)
  • National Institute for the Clinical Application of Behavioral Medicine (online school with AMAZING practical scientific information on trauma integration, neuroscience, etc. Bessel van der Kolk is one of the teachers)
  • Prince Ea YouTube channel (Wholehearted living)
  • Russell Brand (Wholehearted living)

[/s2If]

(2.2) Essentialism: Saying Yes to What Nourishes You

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To which opportunities should you say yes? To which should you say no? This section is inspired by the book, “Essentialism: The Disciplined Pursuit of Less” by Greg McKeown. It’s an absolutely fabulous book.

The key here is that every choice is a trade-off. We do not have unlimited time, energy, etc. “Opportunities” are chances to earn some kind of reinforcement with your behavior, i.e. some need of yours would be fulfilled. But saying yes to an opportunity takes resources (time, energy, money, attention, etc.), so you have less of that resource to apply to something else.

When I was a new dog trainer (almost 2 decades ago, really?), I had lots of time and energy. What I lacked was money to meet my basic needs, so I said yes to every opportunity that came my way. The trade-off was time for money, and since I didn’t have a lot of clients, it was worth it to me to drive far to get to clients.

Over time, I started getting more clients. If I continued saying yes to the ones farther away, I’d spend too much time driving and not be able to see all of the potential clients that lived closer to my school. Later, I had more potential clients visiting my school than I could handle. When I needed the money enough that I would say yes to more clients, I’d trade away quality time with my family. So I hired more trainers, but that meant more responsibility for their wellbeing.

Every choice is a trade-off. Before you say yes to something (like yet another foster or pro bono client or the lure of social media), remember that you’re taking resources away from something else. Your yes is a no to some other opportunity.

Which opportunities feed your purpose? 

Essentialism recommends really figuring out your mission in life, what you want to accomplish, how you want to live, the spirit with which you want to live, and making sure that all of your yesses point in the same direction.

If you offer a delicious, completely artificial treat to a dog, he will probably take that opportunity. He’s not thinking of long-term need for balanced nutrition. He just wants a snack and it smells good. Science has tricked his sesnses into thinking he’s getting his need for nourishment met.

Dogs will even eat things that are toxic for them, we we well know. In other words, they’ll take opportunities (chocolate) that actively block them meeting other needs (physical health). Here’s a video exploring the top 25 toxic foods for dogs (this video is 12 minutes long, so feel free to skip this video if you’re short on time):

I like to think of the Needs Inventory as a list of ingredients for a wholehearted living. Needs are not just about survival, but what helps us live full, satisfying lives. Every opportunity that comes my way has one ingredient, but if I ‘snack’ on opportunities that meet certain needs but make it hard to meet other needs, my emotional health eventually suffers. I’m not taking care of ‘future Grisha’ by saying yes to a narrow range of things and ignoring my other needs.

In other words, I only say yes to opportunities that help me meet my needs in a sustainable way. In particular, the opportunities I say yes to provide (or at least don’t block) the need categories of connection, physical well-being, honesty, play, peace, autonomy, and meaning.

When I say yes to opportunities that meet my needs (including contributing to the lives of my family and society at large) and an authentic, compassionate no to opportunities that block my needs from being met, I feel great. Powerful. Authentic. Not taken advantage of, not like I’m shirking my duty, not overwhelmed with how much I have to do, and grateful to myself for taking care of “future Grisha.”

By having my yesses mean yes and my nos mean no, people can also count on me more reliably. They know I’m not just saying yes to please them, so they can also ask what they need from me, knowing I’ll take my own emotional/physical availability into account. I may not say yes to as many things, but when I do say yes, I’m all in. I’m more creative, productive, and I care.

If someone can’t handle me saying no to them, then what they’ve asked of me isn’t a request, it’s a demand. That never feels good. Demands are maintained by punishment, not reinforcement. Do this, or else (they will yell, guilt trip, be violent, etc.).

Demands are often made when we mix up noncompliance and rejection. File that bit of info away. I’ll talk more about it later.

[/s2If]

(2.1) Feelings, Needs, Strategies, and Boundaries

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

  • Essentialism – where to invest your time and energy
  • Resolving conflict and building empathy with Nonviolent Communication (NVC)
  • Setting, enforcing and respecting healthy boundaries

This week, we’ll talk about some really fabulous skills that help me focus my time and energy on what matters most.

Essentialism is learning to say yes to the opportunities that have the best impact, and no to the others. Nonviolent Communication is a wonderful lens through which the world makes a lot more sense: that all behavior is an attempt to meet needs.

While our strategies (behavior) might vary wildly, the core needs to thrive are actually something we share with all of our fellow humans. Boundary setting maintains our sense of self, protecting own authentic, adaptive comfort zone for physical, spiritual, and emotional interactions.

I’m so excited you’re back for Week 2. Click here to get started.

[/s2If]

(2.5) Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Congratulations, you made it through the reading for week 2! Your future self is going to appreciate this time and effort.

  1. Keep going with your habit change from last week, including marking successfully doing the new habit on your calendar. Report to the Facebook group on any other habit changes you’re making.
  2. Write out a vision of your perfect life. As you go throughout your day, get a sense of whether the activities you do are in line with that vision. Are there any upcoming opportunities that you could say no to because they don’t really meet your needs?
  3. Express gratitude to someone this week using NVC. Bonus: share how it went to the Facebook group.
  4. As you look back on your week, see if you have any areas of your life in which your boundaries are violated or maybe too rigid. This can be with people or animals. Consider setting a healthy boundary, starting with something small that feels relatively safe.  I recommend posting in the Facebook group in advance to get help on what to say or do, or report back after the fact.

[/s2If]

(1.4) Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Congratulations, you’ve made it to the practice session for the first section of the course!

  1. Print out this Needs Inventory. Read the list slowly. Pay attention to how your chest and stomach feel as you read each one, how your breathing changes and any other body sensation. Circle the needs that are routinely being met. Underline the ones that aren’t being met. Consider this list as you do the exercises below.
  2. Habit audit. Set a timer for 5 minutes. On a full size sheet of paper, write as many of your current habits as you can think of. It helps to mentally scroll through your day and include anything that you do in a routine way or on a regular basis. If you really get into this, add another 5 minutes to the timer and continue.
    If you have trouble sleeping, take a close look at your sleep routine, the habits in the last few hours of the day.
  3. Underline the habits that you feel are healthy, i.e., they meet your needs and don’t significantly interfere with meeting other needs.
  4. Circle the habits that you would like to change.
  5. On another sheet of paper, draw 3 lines so you have 4 columns: Trigger, Habit, Consequences Needs Met, and Needs Blocked. For each habit that you circled, write some of the triggers, desirable consequence, needs met, and blocked needs (harder to meet because of that habit). For example, with smoking it would be something like:
    * Trigger: break time
    * Habit: smoke cigarette
    * Consequences: time outside, nicotine rush, talk to people
    * Needs Met: air, movement, community/belonging.
    * Blocked Needs: Rest (nicotine artificially increases energy), physical well-being (cancer risk), belonging (can be shunned by non-smokers).
  6. Pick one habit that you most want to change (if any). What are some alternate habits that would be healthier and still meet the same need? Which environmental changes will remind you to  insert a pause between the trigger and habit and redirect you to a healthier behavior? Feel free to post in the group if you’re having trouble coming up with ideas.
  7. This course is for your wellness, but also for animals in your care. Create a training plan to reinforce your behavior of engaging with this course (reading the Lessons and being active in the Facebook group). I recommend printing out a calendar as I mentioned in Lesson 2. You might also need to add a bigger reinforcer, like a nap, sitting in the sun, or access to a more established habit afterwards (say, Facebook). Come up with short term reinforcers and one big reinforcer at the end for staying active throughout the course. Share your plan in the group and put it into action.
  8. Bonus video: If you have trouble sleeping, play this video at bedtime or better yet, get the Headspace app so you don’t have any bright electronics on. I highly recommend having consistent bedtime habits, activities that cue your brain border collies that it’s time to go to sleep. Good sleep hygiene helps everything go better in life!

[/s2If]

(1.3) Thoughts are Behavior, Too

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

This is important enough that I wanted to highlight it. Much of our thinking is habitual. Just as your dog sits when you say the Sit cue, you automatically think a certain way when you perceive certain “cues” in your environment.

The only difference is that most of these cues weren’t specifically trained by someone else, they’re just there because of a random association. A song reminds you of your ex, a food reminds you of your mother, etc. And off you go, away from the present moment. The cool thing is that you can change these habits just as you can for externally observable behavior.

Letting your thoughts be without jumping into them, becoming them, or blowing them out of proportion is a learned skill. It takes practice. And practice. And practice. Noticing that you have thoughts popping up IS the practice.

To combat being distracted from the present, we can build a habit of mindfulness:  simply observing that a thought is asking for attention and either deliberately digging into a thought that requires immediate attention or returning your attention to the now. In the present, we feel physical sensations arise and fall in the body, we sense the world around us or focus on the task we are doing, and let the thoughts slip back into oblivion. I’ll talk more about mindfulness later in the course.

Here’s the Buddhist nun Pema Chödrön talking about the habit of distraction from the present moment and shenpa (getting hooked by our thoughts, the urge to scratch the “itch” of our cravings):

The habit of getting lost in harmful thoughts is often straightforward to change using habit changing tips. Some thought patterns need to be untangled by processing grief (which we’ll talk about in week 6) or in therapy.

Reframing thoughts as habits that I developed to respond to an old environment puts me in the driver’s seat, and lets me realize that there’s nothing “wrong” with me (or you). Outdated coping strategies are just habits that were useful at the time, but aren’t needed any more.  I can replace my own habitual responses. So can you.

It’s not possible or helpful to always be positive. Be REAL!

This is a good time to talk about the downside of positivity. It’s popular to try to just think positive thoughts all the time, but this is a form of spiritual bypassing: ideologies that systematically avoid wrestling with and integrating dark emotions. Reframing self-destructive thoughts (like “I suck at dog training”) to something with a healthier perspective is great (“My timing is off, but I can go to chicken training camp to improve it”), but that’s different from ignoring one’s own needs or shoving feelings deep inside.

We are human and we do get sad. Sadness is a natural response to loss or transition, not a character flaw or a problem to fix. There’s just a change that needs some processing to accept. (More on grief in week 6). It’s healthy to acknowledge and feel our feelings when our needs are unmet. We don’t need to run from feelings or put on a happy face.

Having anger also isn’t a character flaw. Anger is just a red flag that something is not right in our world, that a need isn’t being met or a boundary is being crossed. It’s like a dog who growls when you touch a part of his body that hurts. The dog just doesn’t feel comfortable in some way, and the growl is setting that boundary for what feels safe.

Having anger is not the same as hurting someone else with it. I use anger as a signal that I need to dig in and see how I’m feeling hurt, ashamed, or upset in other ways. Underneath, there’s usually some other feelings that are important to recognize and share to increase empathy and understanding. [We’ll talk about all of this more next week when we discuss feelings, needs, strategies, and boundaries.]

Feelings are fine. BUT… we do have habitual thoughts, stories we tell ourselves that lead to feelings. That’s pretty much like reactivity in dogs. Our minds over-react to situations that are actually safe. Those are habits we can often change.

On the flip side we can create habitual thinking patterns that help! I like planting my own self-care reminders. I deliberately associate self-care habits with environmental cues. For example, I decided to use Open signs to remind me to do a short mindfulness exercise.

Whenever I see an Open sign at a business, I observe my breathing for a few cycles and do a body scan. Starting at the top of my head, moving down to my feet, I bring my awareness to my senses in each part of my body, like a medical scanner very slowly, steadily moving its way down. I takes about a minute when I do it this way.

[/s2If]

(1.2) Which Habits Do you Want? What Spirit Do You Want?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

I’m starting this course off with a discussion of habits, because changing one’s habits is incredibly empowering. And it can be easier than most people think.

Besides, I also want you to get the benefit of working through the entire course, and that requires creating a new habit of getting online and engaging with the material.

Habits can get kind of a bad name, like addictions, but habits are actually just behavior that’s repeated so often that we don’t even need to think any more.

Literally, habits can bypass thought. That’s simultaneously really awesome and really terrifying.

Habits are amazingly efficient. As long as that habit helps us survive AND thrive, thats great.

For example, it’s useful to drive a car and be able to press the brakes or steer without thinking. Not so for habits that damage the body, relationships, mind, etc.

In his book, “The Power of Habit: What We Do in Life and Business,” neuroscientist Charles Duhigg explains how brain activity is different when a habit is triggered.

If we don’t have a habit, brain activity is pretty active the whole time while we (or our dogs) do the behavior. If we do have a habit, then there’s a little spike right as the habit is activated, and then the brain waves fall off: autopilot.

In fact, whenever we perceive a cue to do a habit, our brain activity spikes with craving, because we are already anticipating the reinforcer. The key to changing habits with people is the same as it is with dogs: create a way for a new behavior to get the same reinforcer, to meet the same craving, or better yet, the need underneath it.

Change the environment enough that one remembers to do the new behavior and still get that same need or craving met, and voila!, the habit is changed.

No shaming, blaming, self control, any of that. It’s just like dog training, only with people. Just set up your environment to meet your needs/cravings in healthy ways.

By “healthy” habit, I mean habits that don’t interfere with meeting your other needs for thriving.

Changing a habit really is that simple: replace your old habit with a healthy one that meets the same need or craving.

  1. What’s the function of the current habit (behavior) or what craving does it satisfy?
  2. Which healthy habit could achieve the same thing?
  3. Find all environmental cues that trigger the current habit, and change things so you’ll get a reminder to do the new habit, instead.

“Simple is not easy,” as the saying goes. The hard part is finding all of the triggers for the habit and getting them to direct to the new habit. But once you have that, it’s usually pretty easy.

In Karen Pryor’s wonderful “Don’t Shoot the Dog” book, she writes:

Training an incompatible behavior is quite useful in modifying your own behavior, especially when dealing with emotional states such as grief, anxiety, and loneliness. Some behaviors are totally incompatible with self-pity: dancing, choral singing, or any highly kinetic motor activity, even running. You cannot engage in them and wallow in misery simultaneously. Feeling awful? Try Method 5.

But building a life that you love isn’t just about replacing old habits with random ones. It also can be useful to look at which needs are not being met, what values or spirit you want to have and create habits to get there.

That’s just like dog training, too. Only it’s not a dog, it’s your own mind!

I read the “Power of Habits” book and made some drastic and immediate changes to my own habits. They were all actually pretty easy, which was stunning to me:

  • I lost 35 pounds in 2 months, without feeling hungry or dieting. That weight never came back.
  • I became more consistent about being vegan
  • I began meditating regularly again
  • I trained my dogs regularly again
  • I started regularly hiking in the woods behind my house
  • I stopped eating processed sugar again (not zero, but practically none)
  • I stopped drinking alcohol and coffee (not zero, but practically none)

Yes, all at once. That worked for me, might be too much for you. I was simply ready for all of those changes, just needed structure to make it happen.

Let’s look at my weight loss:

I was clearly eating more than my body needed, so I knew there must have been a function for that extra eating. Looking more closely, there were two problems. First, I was eating at times when I wasn’t hungry (snacking). Second, when I was eating a meal, I would also continue eating when I was actually no longer hungry. In both cases, I was eating when not hungry. I determined that eating was just an activity to do.

That led to one specific new habit: asking myself if I was hungry before I put food into my mouth. This is actually just an instance of a general new habit: interrupting the habit process, or as Viktor Frankl wrote, “inserting a pause between stimulus and response.” Mindfulness is extremely useful.

Because of this eating habit change, and the regular meditation, I started being more mindful of everything I did. Before lots of activities, I began asking myself: “Which need will this behavior meet? Is it the healthiest way to meet that need?”

Again, by “healthy,” I mean it facilitates (or at least doesn’t get in the way of) meeting my other needs. It’s not just good for this one need, but it helps Future Grisha meet other needs.

So I had the sequence:

Stand at refrigerator –> Eat –> boredom relieved

I had to insert a pause between stimulus (sight of refrigerator) and response (eating). I could have done it sooner in the sequence, like when I first had the desire to eat, and that did happen eventually, but the refrigerator is magnetic, so it’s a great place to put signs with new cues.

I put up two notes. One read: “Are you hungry? If you feel hungry, drink water, and if you are still hungry, come back.”

The second note read: “Look for signs of life,” which was my way of telling myself to go to the window and look out to enjoy the movement of nature.

Picture of the note on my wall about needs
My list of alternate behaviors

Next to the window, I had another note, which read:

“Hey there, lovely, what do you NEED?”

And I listed about 20 boredom busters, including “make a cup of tea,” “walk the dogs,” “dance,” “phone a friend,” “meditate,” “rest in the hammock,” and “I need nothing right now. Feel the itch to alleviate boredom and  let yourself relax.”

So now my new sequence was essentially:

Stand at fridge –> recognize that I’ve hit an eating trigger –> ask what I actually need/crave at that time –> do a healthy behavior –> need met

Or more simply:

habit is triggered –> notice I’ve been triggered –> bring awareness to  current needs –> healthy behavior  –> need met

Once I had changed that habit, it became simpler and simpler to interrupt any habit sequence. I wasn’t just changing my eating. I was actually taking a quick inventory of my current needs.

Compare that to what would happen if I were to use shame to change behavior. I’d recognize a habit trigger, but then pile on shame to try to stop the pull I’d feel toward the craving. That habit would just punish the behavior of noticing the triggering (not helpful). It also wouldn’t meet the need or satisfy the craving, and I’d likely do the habit anyway, with more shame for not having self-control. Shame is basically a set-up for failure, for more shame.

I don’t shame or mock other people, I don’t heap punishment on my dogs. Why would I do that to myself? My inner child needs to know that she is ALWAYS safe with me.

I find it much more helpful to create a habit of trigger awareness as the cue for awareness of needs:

trigger –> “yay! I found a trigger!” (mini reward) –> “What does that mean I need?” –> healthy behavior –> needs met

Instead of worrying about having so many triggers for my problem habits, I can celebrate that I have so many reminders to check in with my, to build authenticity. “What do I need right now?”

Between stimulus and response there is a space. In that space is our power to choose our response. In our response lies our growth and our freedom. -Viktor E. Frankl

In terms of alcohol and caffeine, awareness inserted after a trigger became so useful. Society wouldn’t have considered me an alcoholic or caffeine junky, but my new awareness made me realize that these were things I consumed when I wanted to override my physical or emotional needs in order to meet obligations. I drank coffee when I thought I “should” be awake, but my body was not up for it. I drank alcohol when I thought I “should” be in a social situation that my spirit wasn’t enjoying, when I really looked at it.

There are so many little trick products like this, that meet a craving, but block the need.

By taking those items off of my personal menu, I began being much more authentic. I could hear my inner child and the needs of my protein suit (my body). I was resting when I needed rest. When my mind and heart needed quiet time, I said no to social invitations and got quiet time. When I engaged in social activities, my yes was an authentic yes, and that led to deeper, more wonderful friendships.

Habits are an efficient use of memory. They can be a way to trick my instant-gratification system into being quiet, because I don’t stop to think of my short-term cravings. In order to build a habit, it helps to build in some instant gratification (well-timed reinforcement), even if it’s unrelated.

It turns out grief can make you stronger!

For example, one month before my husband died this year, he inspired me to start doing pushups. As little grief ritual, I usually do 30 standard push-ups in the morning before brushing my teeth.

That way, my pushups get a little bit of reinforcement from the toothbrushing, which itself is reinforced by the mint of the toothpaste. I also try to really notice the boost of energy in my system that comes from even a super-brief workout.

The pushup habit happens before I can even really think about it. In the long term, I’m enjoying a more stable core and sexier, stronger arms, but in the short term, doing the well-established habit of toothbrushing reinforces the push-ups. That’s the Premack Principle at work.

The Premack Principle is a principle of behavior that we dog trainers love to take advantage of: access to a more likely behavior will reinforce a less likely behavior. Or in other words: strong habits reinforce weak habits.

So if I “get” to brush my teeth after pushups, then the new pushup habit is reinforced.

Here’s a good summary of The Power of Habits, by Charles Duhigg. Note: the summary is NOT written by the author and one thing this person includes that the author doesn’t is some fat-shaming (thanks for pointing that out, Christine!).

The book author (Duhigg) makes a good point of noting that cultivating shame doesn’t help with habits, that it’s just behavior and we have the power to change it. So please ignore the quick bit in this video that could be considered fat shaming — it’s not in the spirit of the book. Feel free to discuss it in the course group.

Ironically, the first time I got the book, it also took me a really long time to open it up and read it. It’s like I didn’t actually want my habits to change. Then when I did, I read it and immediately crafted my habits to more closely match my spirit and values.

Habit hacks:

  • Calendars make good reinforcers! Print a calendar and completely color in the date square for every day that you do your new habit. Research says fully coloring in the is square more effective for habit change than just X’ing out the day. You can print multiple calendar pages (one for each habit).  Then you can look back at the calendar and see progress.
  • You can use the data from the calendar to reinforce long-term goals. For example, you could have a goal of engaging with the How to Human course at least 50% of the days for the next 6 weeks. If you achieve that, you could give yourself a no-chores day or something special that you’ve been wanting to buy.
  • Telling friends that you intend to change your habit helps! It gives you some social accountability. Only tell people who support your habit change.
  • Shame doesn’t help with habit change. If you slip up, treat yourself like a dog you were training with positive reinforcement: change the environmental conditions to make the new habit a more obvious choice and/or find a better reinforcer.
  • For particularly persistent habits, where it’s hard to consistently cue the new behavior, hypnotherapy can be quite helpful. I know it sounds kind of out there, but it’s actually clinically quite effective. Hypnotherapy can essentially plant a new cue and strengthen the effect of the cue to do the new habit, and if your new habit meets the old need/craving, it gets automatically reinforced, and the new habit can take over. You can also do it yourself, but it’s handy to consult with a professional the first time. Check out some research here, here, and here.

[/s2If]

(1.1) Welcome!

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]Reminder: Please request to join my  How to Human course Facebook Group

This course is structured with multiple short lessons, with a Pause to Practice at the end of each batch. In the live version of the course, we’ll take a week to cover a block of sessions, but you can always go at your own pace. The live parts will be recorded.

  • Lesson 1: Welcome
  • Lesson 2: Habits
    • Habits can be useful! Which habits do you want? Why?
    • Training your healthy habits [And what does healthy even mean?]
  • Lesson 3: Thoughts are behavior, too
  • Pause to Practice

Welcome!

I am so thrilled that you’re here! I’m excited to share some of the most inspiring wellness information I have found. As animal lovers and pet professionals, I know a lot of you don’t naturally prioritize your own self care. But finding healthy ways to take care of yourself sets a good example for the humans around you and also helps the animals in your care.

For example, one study concludes that “dogs, to a great extent, mirror the stress level of their owners.” Stress is contagious and so is wellness; please give this course the seriousness and dedication you would to a class about dogs. Mental wellness helps everyone.

These tools have helped me enjoy a life of purpose, be authentic, defend my inner child, release myself from trauma, meet my needs, be more compassionate, stand my ground, and cope with / thrive from major life events (like the recent suicide of my partner) rather than experiencing them as traumatic. In a word, they’ve helped me be wholehearted. I’m in love with my life and I want you to be able to be in love with yours, too.

My goals are to create safe, supportive container for animal lovers to explore wellness and wholeheartedness. The lessons have the information and practices that I have most useful so far. I aim to give you enough of an experience with them that you can see if they would be helpful for you to look into more deeply from the original sources.

Many of us step foot on the path to spiritual enlightenment [or personal growth] expecting it to lead us onward and upward, hoping to become something better than we are, and ready to gather all of the important things we need along the way.

What a surprise it is when we eventually realize that this path isn’t taking us onward but inward, that we’re not gathering things so much as letting them go, and that there was never anything more to aspire to than the truth of what we already are. – Cristen Rodgers

Not all tools in this course will appeal to you. That’s totally okay.  I want you to find YOUR authentic path, to find a way to tune into your own unique nature.

Some things here, you might have tried already and stopped because they weren’t a right fit for you at the time, or never will be. Some will be practices you have done for longer than I have. That’s all okay. None of us start our journeys at the same place and none of us grew up in the same environment, so comparisons make no sense.

We are all similar and yet we are all also unique. Susan Friedman, Ph.D. often says that behavior is a “study of one” because every individual responds in their own way, even though we have scientific principles to start with as our framework.

I’ve chosen to present the tools and information that I think would be useful to the most people, that I found especially helpful, and/or would have liked to have known sooner.  I’ve left out some esoteric ideas that I find fun but might detract from the main message. I am pretty sure something in here will be of use to you.

There is also almost definitely a resource, method, or practice that has made a huge difference in your life, but isn’t in these lessons. Share! If you’ve read a book or found a resource that you think might be great for other people to know about, feel free to share it with the rest of us on the Facebook page. Briefly describe to us how it has changed your life for the better and be prepared to answer questions non-defensively. Note that this isn’t to be used for marketing purposes, and should be posted in a nonjudgemental spirit, simply sharing something that was useful for you.

One more caveat before we begin:

This course is not meant to replace a mental health professional. In fact, I have a therapist and I count on our sessions to help me work through my knottiest problems. I honestly think therapy is practically a basic human right and we all need access to it from time to time. It’s hard to be human!

For myself, I prefer the flexibility of therapy by phone and have found a therapist who does coherence therapy, which is basically a way to take advantage of cognitive dissonance to rewrite the emotional rules I created in my childhood. I prefer not to have a schedule, so I just set something up when I need it, which is usually something like 3 or 4 times a year, with a few more to cope with my recent loss.

There are many fundamental approaches to therapy (orientations), so even if you’ve tried it before, I urge you to find a format and orientation that works for you. For some people, the best mental health practitioner is a shaman, a life coach, a body worker, a hypnotherapist. Some folks have one of each. Whatever works for you.

If cost is a factor keeping you from therapy, look into whether your insurance might cover it. There’s also online therapists that are very convenient, like Talkspace.com. As with any therapist, you’ll want to try out multiple people to find the best fit. Other therapy options? Share in the Facebook group.

Click below to see lesson 2.[/s2If]

(2.4) Boundaries. Noncompliance is not Rejection

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Boundaries are what we use to maintain a healthy sense of self. They are the line between interactions that are acceptable or not: physical, spiritual, emotional, sexual, and relational. Healthy boundaries are flexible, allowing intimacy when it’s wanted and being clear about when an interaction is unwelcome.

Boundaries enable us to live lives of compassion. They help us live within our integrity.

Wait, what? Saying no is compassionate?

Listen to researcher Brené Brown talk about compassion and boundaries and doing the best we can.

Saying no to an opportunity or request for interaction is not a rejection of the person, just a statement of one’s own comfort level and needs. This is a huge one to ponder, especially if you find yourself saying yes when you don’t really want to or if you get frustrated when others don’t do what you want them to do.

We saw that Step 4 of NVC is to make a request. But the other person has every right to say no if your request doesn’t suit them. If they have  the emotional space to do so, they’ll work with you to come up with another way to get your need met, some strategy that meets their needs, too.

Really soak that in:

Noncompliance is not rejection.

Noncompliance is not rejection.

Noncompliance is not rejection.

Noncompliance can come from a desire to reject someone, but that’s not necessarily the case. When one is mindful of their yesses and nos, saying no to a request is just about the request, nothing else.

When someone asks me to do something, and I say no, I’m not rejecting them as a person. I’m only rejecting what they’ve asked me to do because saying yes would interfere with meeting my needs. That’s all.

I’m not saying I don’t like or love the person. I’m saying it’s not in my general best interest to say yes to the opportunity that they’ve presented.

And the flipside is true. People can love me and still say no to particular requests that I make.

Being mindful of my needs not being selfish, because one of the needs I’m watching out for is my need to contribute, especially to the wellbeing of the people I love. By saying no to their request, I often have more energy, time, etc. to contribute in a more valuable way.

Codependence, independence, and interdependence

One of the main reasons people start working on boundaries is to combat codependence. There was a popular push away from codependence that urges people to be completely independent, and that’s not healthy, either. The pendulum is starting to swing back to center with interdependence.

Codependence is merging in a relationship. A person tries to meet all the needs of the other and is threatened by any differences.

  • Fluid or nonexistent boundaries (accepts whatever happens to them and does not assert needs)
  • Jealousy
  • Uncomfortable doing things alone and upset by activities or interactions with others
  • Trying to liked or fit in, saying yes/no when it’s not one’s truth (people pleasing)
  • Hurtful, judging, or controlling communication
  • Manipulation
  • Feeling smothered by or addicted to the other person
  • Statements like “you make me feel”
  • Low self-esteem
  • Does not meet the need for autonomy, trust, empathy, self-expression, freedom, independence, for example
  • If problems are discussed, the codependent partner changes to make the other happy

This shows up in relationships of all kinds from romantic to platonic to parenting, even in our relationships with dogs.

The idea of codependence was developed when one or both partners were fighting addiction. It’s been taken to the extreme of idolizing independence. I call it reactive independence, because it’s done as a reaction to codependence, an attempt to find a healthy sense of self, but over-doing it and blocking everyone else out. Independence is *a* need, but it’s not the only one, so strategies to become more independent shouldn’t block us from meeting our needs for community, intimacy, etc. That’s where interdependence comes in.

First, let’s look at the drawbacks of trying to be completely independent.

Reactive independence is all about trying to be healthy as an island:

  • Distancing, boundaries are too rigid (no emotional intimacy, asserts ones own needs without concern for the other)
  • Taking no responsibility whatsoever for the emotional response of the other
  • Statements like “you can only count on yourself” and “Your happiness is an inside job, talk about feelings to your therapist.”
  • Thinking of people (or dogs) with needs as being “needy”
  • Not comfortable talking about feelings or being vulnerable
  • Does not meet the need for intimacy, to see and be seen, support, community, etc.
  • If disagreements arise, the person trying to be independent focuses on getting their way

Interdependence is more natural, because humans need to be able to count on others. We have a need to contribute to life and we have needs for autonomy, expression, and so much more.

In an interdependent relationship:

  • Listening and holding space for sharing happen easily, so both can be vulnerable
  • Doing things alone is not just allowed, but respected, and encouraged
  • Doing things together is done by mutual choice
  • Conflict is seen as an opportunity to discover the inner world and meet the unmet needs of the individuals
  • Good boundaries and solidly aware of responsibility for behavior
  • Healthy self-esteem
  • Honest sharing is valued
  • Requests can be denied without feeling like a rejection
  • Partners can hold space for the other to explore their inner world and find their own path

Here’s a good blog post on interdependent relationships and I love this book on awakened monogamy: Transformation Through Intimacy.

So how does one actually set a boundary?

The first step is to figure out where the boundary is and that can take some practice feeling the sensations in your body. I can tell a boundary is being approached when I get a sort of icky sensation, a sinking in my gut. It might be different for you, maybe there’s an emotional shockwave of anger, numbness, worry, feeling overwhelmed, or just a desire to put a stop to something.

Boundary enforcement is naturally strengthened by negative reinforcement, in the sense that the intrusion on your safety zone has been repelled. When you set a boundary and, say, the person doesn’t touch you in an uncomfortable way, they don’t coerce you to eat something or believe a certain religion, there’s a sense of relief.

Boundaries should be flexible to adapt to the context. What I feel emotionally, physically, or spiritually safe with from a partner is not the same as what I allow from a first date or a stranger. What my dog allows from me is not the same as what he allows from another dog in the household and that’s also different from what he allows from a dog outside of the household.

Boundaries can be too close (weak sense of self), too distant (not allowing intimacy at all), permeable (not actually blocking unwanted intimacy), too rigid (not adjusting to different contexts, everyone kept at the same distance), too flexible (inconsistent, constantly changing and negotiable).

We start learning boundary setting quite young, in our first relationships with caregivers. Like all behavior, boundary setting is subject to reinforcement (it “works”), punishment (it “backfires”), or extinction (no particular consequences). Because how boundaries were responded to in different contexts or with different people, a person might have healthy boundaries in one area and not in others.

Boundaries that are too close may have ended up that way because setting boundaries was perceived as rejection and punished by abandonment (negative punishment for us dog geeks who like quadrants).  Setting a boundary feels unsafe.

Distant boundaries may have developed because closer boundaries were punished. For example: the vulnerability of closer boundaries feels unsafe in some way due to a history of other people not respecting the boundary (allowing one kind of touch opened the door for another kind, for example) or violating trust (sharing a deep emotional story with the person and they tell someone else, for example). A boundary is used to keep the other person from getting anywhere near intimacy, because intimacy feels especially unsafe.

Permeable boundaries might have developed because boundary setting was ignored (learned helplessness). For example, a child says he’s full and the parent makes him eat everything anyway, even to the point of nausea. Boundaries seem pointless or impossible.

Please feel the sensations in your body as you read the various boundary setting (or not) in these responses:

A friend describes a problem with her dog and asks you to come over to help her for free. You believe she won’t actually take the advice if it’s free. [insert another type of request that matches your line of work if you aren’t a dog trainer]

  1. You really like the dog and hope that maybe she will listen. You squeeze her into your schedule and end up having to miss your son’s basketball game.
  2. You let her know that you would be happy to fit her into your schedule, but it has to be as a paying client. You offer a friends and family discount of 20%.
  3. You say no to scheduling a session with her but she persists and you end up emailing long messages that you think she probably didn’t even read.
  4. You tell her that you have a policy of not working with friends’ dogs and ask whether she’d prefer a referral to another local trainer, an online school, a video, or a book.
  5. You tell her you’re too busy and start avoiding her calls.
  6. She’s a close friend and really want to work with her dog because then your dogs could walk together, but you have a strict no-working-with friends policy because you’ve been burned in the past.
  7. She’s a close friend and really want to work with her dog because then your dogs could walk together. You use NVC to express your concerns about her not doing the work if it’s free and ask her to honestly tell you if she thinks she will be able to follow through on your advice, which will require some behavior change on her part. She clearly understands your dilemma and reassures you that she will prioritize the work with you.

Hopefully you were able to sense the differences in how you’d feel giving each of these responses. Some of them probably feel more healthy, more authentic and powerful. Which one would be your current go-to response? Which one feels like it might better meet your needs? Feel free to discuss what you think about these scenarios in the How to Human private Facebook group.

For me, Option 1 would feel like I’m letting myself be taken advantage of, the boundary is permeable, not protecting my time and energy. Option 2 might or might not feel like a healthy, authentic boundary, depending on whether I could afford giving that discount. Option 3 is similar to option 1 except the issue is being overly flexible. It sets a boundary at first but then allows a boundary violation eventually anyway.   Option 4 is healthy boundary setting that still helps the person get their dog trained.

Option 5 sets a boundary but uses a lie and distancing the person would feel icky. This is an example of too distant of a boundary (no contact at all). Someone might use this strategy if they were afraid that they couldn’t trust their boundary setting skills if they were in contact with the person, or if they correlate boundary setting with rejection. Option 6 establishes a boundary is too rigid, because it doesn’t allow exceptions in cases where doing so would meet my needs. Option 7 is healthy boundary setting. It uses clear communication and shows flexibility to adjust for close friendship. If the person is not able to follow through, more NVC could be used to comfortably enforce the boundary and discontinue training.

Healthy boundaries help people know that they can trust you, and they facilitate true intimacy and communication. Your yesses mean yes and your nos mean no, which means it’s easier to truly count on you. Skilled boundary setting is contagious and the people we care about can learn to set their own boundaries and take better care of themselves, too. When we set healthy boundaries we also learn to respect the boundaries of others (including other species).

Boundaries are also super-important for preventing burnout. Dog trainers and shelter workers are one of the highest risk career categories for burnout and boundary setting is one of the main reasons. You can help more dogs if you set healthy boundaries. 

For more information on boundary setting, I highly recommend Ann Katherine’s book, “Boundaries: Where You Are and I Begin” and her more step-by-step book “Where to Draw the Line: How to Set Healthy Boundaries Every Day.”

Here’s a video on setting boundaries with and for the animals in your care. It’s one of videos in the member library for my online school, so when it references ‘other videos’ just ignore that, or check them out in the library if you have a Student or Pro membership in the Animal Building Blocks Academy.

[/s2If]

(3.1) The Border Collie in Your Head

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

  • What’s ‘normal’ for a brain?
  • Negativity bias and feedback loops
  • Fundamental attribution error
  • Labels aren’t useful for people, either
  • Gratitude
  • Habits revisited (how is the habit change going? Do they match your values & purpose?)

In this section, I’ll share some of the tidbits of neuroscience and social psychology that I find most useful in maintaining a sense of wellbeing and compassion.

It’s hard to be human, but we are up for the challenge!

[Did you know that there’s research that indicates using the word “challenge” combats limiting beliefs and increases one’s ability to perform?]

Our brains have a natural bias toward negativity. We have all kinds of other shortcuts that are far more useful for fighting tigers than traffic and negotiating fulfilling relationships. The good news is that self awareness can catch those strong tendencies before we get stuck.

Every time we build up healthy mental habits as alternatives to the standard way of responding we win! Every time we notice we are on autopilot and return to healthier ways of responding, we win. In the Book of Joy, the Dalai Lama calls this practice building “mental immunity.”

Here’s a video on a simple breathing technique that will relax the border collies in your head. Long exhales calm your heart, breathing, and digestion by engaging the parasympathetic nervous system (the rest and digest part of the autonomic nervous system), and release our own natural opium, kind of the opposite of adrenaline.

Focusing on breathing for a little bit is an extremely helpful thing to include in your sleep routine, or as a response any time you notice that your body is in fight or flight mode. Just tell yourself “this is just my body responding to a challenge” and do some breathing for a minute:

[/s2If]

(5.1) Stillness and Unconditional Love

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

  • Power of Compassion
  • Lovingkindness meditation
  • Walking meditation and other integrations
  • Relationship audits

This section covers what I consider to be the most powerful route to happiness: compassion. Practices that cultivate a feeling of “we’re all in this together” and a wholehearted wish for the happiness of all beings, including myself, have produced a lot of growth for me and a brought more joy and purpose to my relationships.

According to Dr. James R. Doty, clinical professor in the Department of Neurosurgery at Stanford University, and the Director of the Centre for Compassion and Altruism Research and Education, has the answer, we are neurologically prone to compassion. He says, “fundamentally being compassionate or caring for others is actually our default mode. We are wired to care for others.” This doesn’t always happen, of course, but that’s more because of learning than what behavior would most meet our own needs.

Doty says, “The problem comes with our adrenalin powered lifestyles.” He also says that, “in today’s world we have an epidemic of stress, anxiety, and depression. Our overstimulated nervous systems also make us more reactive and quick to jump to judgements about others.”

But the cool thing is that we can change that around, with practice. By directly focusing on compassion, we don’t just help others, we help ourselves. It’s a really fascinating paradox to me.

When someone acts with compassionate intention, it has a huge, huge positive effect on their physiology. It takes them out of the threat mode and puts them into the rest and digest mode. What happens when that occurs is it changes how they respond to events.

Instead of a quick response, oftentimes based on fear or anxiety, it allows for a much more deliberative or discerning response which typically is much more effective, and more creative because it’s allowing your executive control area to function at its best. [click here for the full article]

Compassion isn’t always practiced, but it’s definitely not new. It’s really the foundation of most world religions and definitely Buddhism. Here’s something that His Holiness the Dalai Lama writes about compassion:

The more we care for the happiness of others, the greater our own sense of well-being becomes. Cultivating a close, warm-hearted feeling for others automatically puts the mind at ease. This helps remove whatever fears or insecurities we may have and gives us the strength to cope with any obstacles we encounter. It is the ultimate source of success in life.

As long as we live in this world we are bound to encounter problems. If, at such times, we lose hope and become discouraged, we diminish our ability to face difficulties. If, on the other hand, we remember that it is not just ourselves but every one who has to undergo suffering, this more realistic perspective will increase our determination and capacity to overcome troubles. Indeed, with this attitude, each new obstacle can be seen as yet another valuable opportunity to improve our mind!

Thus we can strive gradually to become more compassionate, that is we can develop both genuine sympathy for others’ suffering and the will to help remove their pain. As a result, our own serenity and inner strength will increase. [click here for the full article]

In this Section, I will touch on some different aspects of compassion. As with most of the subjects in this course, there is a lot of depth to this subject and I’m only introducing the parts that resonate most with me and that I feel would be most useful to you.

I highly recommend that you dig deeply into compassion practices. It’s life’s work. For a book intro, check out “The Book of Joy: Lasting Happiness in a Changing World” by the Dalai Lama and Desmond Tutu.

I love that book because it’s written by a Buddhist and a Christian, and edited by a Jew, and highlights that compassion is the root of joy for all of us, regardless of whether we’re secular, spiritual, or religious.

slide 4

(4.1) Being Present

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

  • Taking in the Good [take a sensory picture]
  • Mindfulness exercises, including feeling emotion in your body
  • Wholehearted living and badassery

This section has a lot of really powerful information in it. Please make sure to read it carefully and practice the techniques! I promise it will make a difference.

Taking in the Good is a practice taught by neuroscientist Rick Hanson to rewire our brains to fill the gaping holes in our heart. By noting and deliberately remembering “antidote experiences” to our worst fears, we can steer toward those good things and thrive rather than having our worries in the driver’s seat.

Mountains of scientific evidence point to the conclusion that mindfulness helps our wellbeing. I even learned recently that mindfulness practices can actually lengthen telomeres in our cells, which literally means that things like meditation and breathing exercises can keep our DNA from unraveling. Wow.

The final section covers some of Brené Brown’s research on wholehearted living. I love her work because it’s really about strengthening the connection to ourselves and to others. Brown coined the term badassery to mean showing up for life, being vulnerable, accepting challenges and learning from them to create an authentic, powerful experience as a human being.

Taking a sensory picture will help you better emotionally remember the highlights of your life.

[/s2If]

(6.1) Impermanence, Groundlessness, and Letting Be

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Congratulations, you’ve made it to the final section! As you get to the end of the course material, please know that you are still a part of the tribe. You may revisit the material as many times as you want, so technically you’re not at the ‘end’ of the course. I’ve found that my life lessons often spiral around: even when I think I really understand something, when I encounter it again, I still more to learn, at a completely different level.

So please don’t lose the link to this course. Stay in the Facebook group and touch back to the material from time to time. And don’t worry if you end up being away for months or more at a time. You are always welcome back into the How to Human tribe.

I will also continue to share new information in the H2H Facebook group.

In this section, I’ll cover impermanence, groundlessness, and letting things be as they are. In time, everything changes, nothing is permanent on this earth. We are constantly in transition, with our minds learning and our bodies slowly moving toward death. That can seem really morbid and sad, but I find it incredibly inspiring, to know that, like a dog, my time here in this life is limited.

I don’t have to do everything – I can’t in limited time. I don’t have to put up with with anything here forever, even the things that seem impossible for me to change, because I will eventually die. That’s the beauty of impermanence. It’s not my job. I don’t have to rush the process of my dying, or run from it, either. My purpose, as I see it, is to learn to connect to myself and others and experience my senses. More about purpose in the last part of this section.

I figure that since my death going to happen eventually, no matter what, I might as well see what I can do with the time I have. I have lost a beloved husband. I have lost soulmate dogs and other friends and family. And as painful as those experiences are, they touched deep to my core, they gave me an experience shared by all of humanity.

When I fully acknowledged the feelings, and savored them, I saw that they, too, were not permanent, not constant. Knowing that even grief does not last forever, nor does any emotional state, I can intensely feel each moment as it is and let it be. When something happens, it isn’t possible to make it un-happen, and the only path to peace I’ve found is acceptance of what is.

When I accept things as they already are, I stop putting energy into fighting the past. I can live in the present and lean my actions forward into the future, knowing all the while that I truly have no idea what the future may bring.

Accepting that this Buddhist concept of groundlessness is just the way of the world, that there is no solid and completely unchangeable ground to find, was a revolution in my life. And of course I don’t remember it all the time; I have to circle back to it. But it’s something that’s proven useful to me. Buddhism isn’t a religion, more like a philosophy, and a lot of its tenets bring me clarity.

In a sense, impermanence is my “ground.” I feel solid in the knowledge that everything changes and depends on perspective, on time. I also have some spiritual ideas of what may be relatively more constant in the universe. You may find ground in your religious faith, or something else. Do whatever works for you.

The first topic I’ll cover in this section is mindful listening: how to really be present while listening to another. I’ll also talk about grief, transitions, and loss, something that we all experience as humans, and especially as caregivers for dogs and other non-human animal friends. In addition to being just really unpleasant, grief can be a wonderful teacher and a path to joy. I thought I’d cover it here, at the end of the course, because this, too, is a transition, and all transitions can bring some measure of grief.

Next, I’ll talk about acceptance and joy and what those look like, with some practical ways to build your acceptance. Finally, I’ll talk about an emotional approach to retirement planning, what you can do now to create a life you want to retire into.

[/s2If]

How to Human Course: Thrival Skills for People Who Love Dogs!

This course has been moved to my new site!

  • If you haven’t signed up yet, click here to register.
  • If you have signed up, you’ll just need to set a new password there and then view the courses in My Dashboard. Here’s the direct link to view the course (click on Forgot Password? on that page to reset).

 

Are you in love with your life?

Or do you have border collies running around in your head, instead?

Do you:

  • Waste time doing things that feel useless or uncomfortable?
  • Wish your clients or family would listen to you or respect your time?
  • Feel stressed or burned out?
  • Feel pressured to be “happy” or get upset when others aren’t “positive”?
  • Need more energy or time in the day?
  • Have habits you want to quit or build?
  • Wonder whether there’s more to life than simply surviving?
  • Want authentic connections?
  • Need a group of friends you can count on?

Course Overview (Syllabus)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

HOW TO USE THESE LESSONS

Read through the lessons at your own pace. Every 2-4 lessons, we will pause to give you some tasks to practice. Each set of lessons with practice is meant to take about a week or so.

NOTE: This is a self-paced course. The first time through, it was run as a 6-week course with a live component, and you have access to all archived materials. We have a special Facebook group just for students.[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

Please request to join the How to Human course Facebook Group. This group is just for this course.[/s2If]

Take whatever time you need ,but keep going! And if you stop for a while, and remember that you’ve not logged on, just come back.   You’ll keep access to the course on this site and can log in any time.

Section 1: Changing Habits Efficiently

  • Habits can be useful! Which habits do you want?
  • Habit check: What’s the function of your current habits? Do they match your values & purpose?
  • Training your healthy habits (what does healthy mean?)
  • Thoughts are behavior too

Section 2: Feelings, Needs, Strategies, and Boundaries

  • Essentialism – where to put your time and energy
  • Resolving conflict and building empathy with Nonviolent Communication (NVC)
  • Setting and enforcing healthy boundaries
  • Respecting others’ boundaries

Section 3: The Border Collie in Your Head

  • What’s ‘normal’ for a brain?
  • Negativity bias and feedback loops
  • Fundamental attribution error
  • Labels aren’t useful for people, either
  • Gratitude
  • Habits revisited

Section 4: Being Present

  • Taking in the Good
  • Mindfulness exercises
  • Feeling emotion in your body
  • Shame – everyone has it, few people talk about it
  • Wholehearted living and badassery

Section 5: Stillness and Unconditional Love

  • Power of Compassion
  • Lovingkindness meditation
  • Walking meditation and other integrations
  • Relationship audits

Section 6: Impermanence, Groundlessness, and Letting Be

  • Transitions and loss
  • Acceptance and joy
  • Emotional approach to retirement planning
  • Resources for further learning

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]Links to each topic are on the main course page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_004_hh)]

To view the course lessons, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

BAT Even Helps Service Dog Teams Walk Better!

Guest blogger Kate Rehman

Guest post by Kate Rehman of K9 Triumph Training

I am disabled young lady who has a service dog to mitigate my disabilities in my every day life. I do tons of charity volunteer training sessions which are private one on one with rescues, pets, fosters and service dogs.

When you at me, you won’t see my disabilities; they’re invisible.  Rest assured they do exist. I am Deaf; a rare genetic disease is to blame, amongst other disabling issues. I do not hear at all. My service dog alerts me for fire alarms, knocking, my name, dropped items that hit the floor, and other sounds that I might not notice.

I am owner/trainer of K9 Triumph Training, which focuses on empowered canine partnership.
Allow dogs to sniff when possible

I have had the pleasure of implementing Grisha’s BAT techniques/protocols with service dogs.

At K9 Triumph, I frequently have had disabled handlers who have had traumatic experiences with their service dogs on or off duty or their service dogs have picked up some unwanted behaviors.

By law, service animals must be under control when working. That means we have to figure out ways to reestablish training, and ‘empowered partnership’ means we do it in a way that also meets the dogs’ emotional needs.

This is where Grisha’s BAT leash protocols come in. Within 2-3 sessions of BAT leash skills, their dogs are relaxed, calmer and walking loosely without pulling. They are checking in with their handlers and stopping waiting for to catch up (hence before they would just pull).

I go through the handler’s stance by gliding my hands over their shoulders (with permission). I go over their arms, their wrists and hands. I tell them what their body is showing, their energy, and what I see with their body language. Dogs responds to this.

When we walk I watch the handler and how they walk. I stop them, ask questions and get in their minds/what they are feeling?

My questions are, ‘Are you in the moment?‘ and ‘Can you look at how you holding the leash?’ I slide my hands gently down the leash and pull a tad (this is where you are creating tension).  I remind them, ‘Remember to be in the moment with your partner.’

 I physically move their arm, gently guide their hands, I tell them to relax.

[Grisha’s note – touching the client can be distracting or it can be really useful. Please use your best judgement when working with clients and always get their consent, verbally and by observing their body language! Just as with the dogs, we need to respect their boundaries.]

 Communication goes down this leash. I role play the motions and slightly coach them by physically showing them how to walk with their service dogs. Not the dog walking them, or us walking the dog. It’s a unified skill. Togetherness. Partnership. After all these are working dogs, not pets. They go above and beyond the call of duty. These service dogs save our lives every day.

Usually the handlers are almost paranoid, edgy and worried about judgement when we start; trying to correct their dog every move they make.

I tell them the vest is off, they are with me to learn and no judgement here. Only good things.
I am here to help and empower them as a team.
As take my harness out and properly fit it onto a dog (whichever breed I have that’s in service). We treat and reward for acceptance of the harness. Then we walk. No expectations, no tension and we walk with 12 feet of leash.

We let them sniff and as they start to pull I slowly and gently stop the leash and turn/bend and make kissing sounds; as the dog immediately comes, I reward and smile. Usually we continue this one way. We allow the dog to be busy and sniff again, but if they pull we turn a different direction: bend, turn, kissing sounds and again the dog comes immediately and is rewarded. As I am finishing, reeling the leash in without tension, I treat and give a friendly smile.
Power is the dog’s choosing to come. We start with the dog taking an entire slack with the lead wanting to pull.
On the way back from one way walking; the dog is voluntarily looking at me and walking beside me on a loose on the leash.

It takes no time for them to figure out and we have communicated clearly what we would like.

 After we are done a few rounds I pass the dog off to the disabled owner/handler. I get shocks of laughter, surprise and their dismay. Is this my dog? What have you done with my service dog?
Their dog is relaxed, no tension and choosing to walk nicely with their handler.

No fighting, no pulling back and no frustration.

The team’s energy shifts. Walking is now enjoyable. Working or not.
I get a ton of pullers as clients. They all cannot believe the change. That’s what BAT is about. Behavior Adjustment Training.

Even though some don’t have fearful or aggressive issues, the BAT leash protocols work excellent for unwanted behaviors and habits that have formed.

 I continue to enjoy seeing these service dogs be in sync with their handlers and being able to master leash walking skills by their choices. All we do is show them and they follow through. They give so much to us with serving.

We need to give respect and empathy to these amazing working dogs. BAT is one great way to help these dogs, whether it’s maintenance BAT leash protocols or BAT aggressive and fearful adjustment training.

Things happen on the job, but there is a solution, and if handlers are willing to find a professional trainer that does BAT things could definitely turn around for all.

Thank you for reading!
Kate Rehman
‘Empowered Canine Partnership’

Related article: BAT = BRILLIANT + AWESOME + TREMENDOUS! about using BAT to train assistance dogs in Canada

To learn more about BAT, visit Grisha’s Campus Store for a self-paced online courses, streaming videos, and the BAT book.

Texas Middle Schooler Saves Thousands of Lives

By Daniella Vereeken – Flickr: HM Orange M – Sarawut, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12683082

Imagine you’re a betta fish, swimming in your home, and suddenly you find yourself jostled around into a cramped 2-liter bottle for the rest of your brief life.

You’re not there because someone loves fish and want to take care of you, you’re just part of a child’s science experiment. Live animals are prohibited in the national science fair, but not in school classrooms. Texas middle schooler Ruby G. recently stepped up on behalf of the animals and may have saved thousands of (fish) lives over the next decades of classroom experiments.

Ruby’s 7th grade honors classroom was experimenting with different ecosystems with 2 liter soda bottles. A terrarium, with soil and bean or grass seeds is in a bottle on top. On the bottom was the aquarium bottle. A string between the 2 acts as a root system and carries water to the soil.

CC BY-SA 2.0 de, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=392724

The aquarium ecosystem had gravel, aquatic plants called Duckweed, bottled spring water, and snails. The teacher also said they could add a betta fish and/or small fish. This is when Ruby started to realize putting fish in something that small was disastrous. It wasn’t just theory–fish in other classes had already died in the first week!

Her mother reports, “When we went to Petsmart to get aquatic plants for her team’s aquarium, the employee there said, ‘please don’t put any fish in those bottles.’ And she told Ruby that kids from her school had completely cleaned out the store buying betta fish. And she was asking her manager not to allow the kids to buy fish for that anymore.”

“So Ruby decided then and there she was going to do something about it. And when we came home from the store she got on the computer and started writing.”

Albert Einstein would have been proud of Ruby’s activism, her to bring heart to scientific inquiry. Einstein is well-known for his outstanding intellect and curiosity, but he urged scientists to have compassion, too.
A human being is a part of the whole called by us universe, a part limited in time and space. He experiences himself, his thoughts and feeling as something separated from the rest, a kind of optical delusion of his consciousness. This delusion is a kind of prison for us, restricting us to our personal desires and to affection for a few persons nearest to us. Our task must be to free ourselves from this prison by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature in its beauty. – Einstein

Next, Ruby submitted her well-written paper to her teacher, who was convinced to stop using live fish in future science experiments in his classroom. While that might have disappointed a few of the children, most approved of the compassionate choice to not use animals in classroom experiments.

We all can make a difference in the world. We see injustices every day, to humans and other animals. We make choices with our actions and our words, our inactions and our silences. Brava to Ruby for standing up and getting things done!


Here’s Ruby’s paper:

The Act Against Fish and 2-liter Bottles

I would first like to state this- in the national science fair, live animals are prohibited. No animals are to be used- nor human subjects without permission slips. Now- I realize it’s not possible to ask a fish for a permission slip, but picture this. You’re taken out of your home/shelter and are put in a tiny containment space for a semester- about 18 weeks, with unusual amounts of food, and caretakers who know nothing about you. There you have it- exactly what happens to whatever fish, or shrimp you buy for your bottle project. It isn’t reasonable to leave these creatures with 12-13 year olds who just buy fish because they think it will look cool- they have no idea what the fish need- and as I’ve discovered, our teachers may not know anything about our water breathing friends either, seeing as if they did they would know the inch-per-gallon rule.

Betta Fish Living Conditions

Betta fish are actually a rare breed of fish called labyrinth fish. They need at least one gallon of water, though that is not recommended because it isn’t healthy. Typically, for every inch of fish (smaller fish), you need one gallon of water. Larger fish need 3. The Betta fish need five to thrive happily, a thermometer to keep track of water temperatures, and normal amounts of food. For the size of ‘tanks’ we keep them in, the water should be cleaned DAILY. The bottles used in our experiments are 2 liters- not even a gallon. With these conditions, this can be considered animal cruelty- in the case of not knowing the needs, and stable environment required to keep these creatures. Betta fish also should not be placed in direct sunlight, as it creates an unstable environment, causing an overgrowth of algae, also it may raise water temperatures over a normal 78-80 degrees. All bottles in my own classroom are left on the windowsills.

Shrimp Included in Bottle Projects

In normal aquariums, shrimp are food. For many fish besides Betta- but Betta fish are naturally aggressive and will not only eat, but kill the shrimp mere hours after placing it in the water with the fish. Shrimp are not meant to be put into 2-liter bottles with killer fish. They are food, when you want them to be. Emotional distress can impact children my age losing a shrimp, or fish.

Solution

If children wish to have fish in a science class, first, don’t put them in a bottle. Second, inform the children of the needs and expenses of a fish, including feeding habits, water temperature, and water purity. Third, make sure that they have an aquarium or plan for when the project is over so that a fish is not slowly being killed due to lack of attention, food, or water changes. Fish are intelligent, beautiful beings, and should never be considered for a project like this. It isn’t right, and no teacher is well enough informed to know that, or else we wouldn’t have children feeding their Betta gummy worms, and laying them on paper towels, while removing all original water. Who knows what else has been done over the years? I ask you with all good intent- please ban living creatures in science classes, for the safety of the students- and the specimen.

“Even small fish are fish.” -Czech Proverb

(Video 87) Tips for Sharing Your Bed and Furniture (or Not)

You may have been told that dogs are not allowed on beds, that it makes them dominant. It turns out that’s not actually a true statement. If you want your dog on your bed, or your couch, or anywhere else in your home, that’s your right. You get to set the boundaries. Just be consistent. Watch this video for ways to help make that comfortable for all involved.

Continue reading (Video 87) Tips for Sharing Your Bed and Furniture (or Not)

(Video 86) How to Stop or Prevent Dogs Fighting at Home

Are your dogs getting along well or do they sometimes freeze and stare at each other or even get into fights? Watch this video for ways to help keep the peace at your home.

Note: this could be a life-and-death situation, depending on how seriously your dogs are going after each other. As always, please consider hiring a dog trainer near you if your animals are in danger.

Continue reading (Video 86) How to Stop or Prevent Dogs Fighting at Home

(Video 84) Me First! How to Train More Than One Animal at a Time

If you have more than one animal to train at a time (like multiple dogs, your dog and your cat, your dog and your son…) it can be very helpful to use something called “stationing” to keep them from mobbing you. This is also useful for dogs who fight in the home…more on that later. Watch this video for several useful tips for training in multi-dog or multi-species households.

Continue reading (Video 84) Me First! How to Train More Than One Animal at a Time

(Video 83) Get Dressed: Teach Dogs to Put On Their Own Gear

Does your dog wiggle and jump around when you’re trying to put her tracking harness on? Or maybe he’s afraid of his winter dog boots and you have trouble putting them on? Whenever you need to put equipment on your dog, I recommend training your dog to actively participate in getting that gear on himself. Active cooperation is better than  passive acceptance. Watch this video to learn how to teach your dog to put on his own gear.

Continue reading (Video 83) Get Dressed: Teach Dogs to Put On Their Own Gear

(Video 82) How and Why to Train Your Dog to Wear a Muzzle

Muzzles can be used to prevent dog bites in situations where you are unsure of how your dog will react. Dogs should be trained in advance to be comfortable wearing muzzles, and this video explains how to do that. Muzzle training is actually a good idea for all dogs and puppies, because dogs who are injured can be unpredictable and may need to be muzzled.

Never put your dog in a situation where you think it’s likely he or she will bite, of course. But when you have prepared your dog for a greeting and you believe everything will probably go well, or when your dog needs emergency medical care, a muzzle can come in very handy.

Continue reading (Video 82) How and Why to Train Your Dog to Wear a Muzzle

(Video 81) Ouch! Why Animals Bite and How to Prevent It

Animals, including dogs, bite for a whole lot of reasons. The severity can be anything from a puppy play bite to a bite to kill. Watch this video to learn some of the reasons animals bite and what you can do to prevent bites.

Continue reading (Video 81) Ouch! Why Animals Bite and How to Prevent It

(Video 80) Ick! How to Stop a Poop-Eating Dog (Coprophagia)

When Bean was younger, he kept finding little ‘snacks’ in the yard. Sometimes he would even bring little frozen chunks of dog feces inside and try to bury them in the couch! Fortunately I caught all of those before they thawed…eww.  I’m happy to say that the training worked and he is no longer a poop eater.

This video gives you some great ways to help dogs kick the habit of eating poop. Continue reading (Video 80) Ick! How to Stop a Poop-Eating Dog (Coprophagia)

(Video 78) Anger Management: What to Do About Dog Aggression

Aggression is “intent to do harm.” Most of the time in dogs, barking, growling, and even biting are ritualized ways to get another person or dog to go away. This video gives you a starting point on what to do if your dog is showing signs of aggression or ‘reactivity.’

Note: this could be a life-and-death situation, depending on the severity. As always, please consider hiring a dog trainer near you if your dog or anyone else is in danger.

Continue reading (Video 78) Anger Management: What to Do About Dog Aggression

(Video 77) “I want it!” How to Stop Demand Barking or Vocalizations

Does your dog bark at you for attention? Maybe he drops the ball and barks at you to throw it, throw it, throw it? This video explains how to look for more polite requests for attention and other ways to teach your dog to quietly let you know what he wants.

Continue reading (Video 77) “I want it!” How to Stop Demand Barking or Vocalizations

(Video 76) Help! My Dog is Chasing the Cat

Even though many dogs chase cats, that doesn’t have to be the case in your home! The easiest variation of not chasing cats is to teach your dogs that “their” cat is part of the family and not to be chased in the house.

Note: this could be a life-and-death situation for your cat, depending on how seriously your dog is going after the cat. As always, please consider hiring a dog trainer near you if your animal is in danger.

Continue reading (Video 76) Help! My Dog is Chasing the Cat

(Video 75) Home Alone: 5 Ways to Prevent Separation Anxiety

Many dogs freak out when they’re home alone because they were not eased into being on their own; they were never specifically taught how to handle it. Addressing full-blown separation anxiety takes time and patience. Preventing separation anxiety before it starts is a lot easier and that’s what this video is about.

If you have a puppy or rescue dog, I highly recommend that you watch this video right away and start putting the tips into practice, *before* you have a real separation anxiety problem.

Continue reading (Video 75) Home Alone: 5 Ways to Prevent Separation Anxiety

(Video 74) Is Your Dog Afraid of Riding in Cars?

“Wanna go for a ride?” We often think of dogs jumping around excitedly when they hear that phrase, but some dogs are afraid of riding in cars or trucks. This video gives you safe car travel tips and some useful advice on how to help your dog get over her fear and get back on the road.

Continue reading (Video 74) Is Your Dog Afraid of Riding in Cars?

(Video 73) Deaf or Blind Dogs: Training and Care Tips

Dogs who have trouble hearing or seeing can still be perfectly happy in a family. Contrary to popular belief, dogs with sensory impairments can still function in society, but we do need to make some changes to the way that we communicate with and train those dogs. With some effort, we can help them to safely navigate their lives.

Continue reading (Video 73) Deaf or Blind Dogs: Training and Care Tips

(Video 69) The Sky is Falling! How to Survive Fireworks with Your Dog

Fireworks can be terrifying for dogs. This video explores some tips to help you get your dog comfortable with fireworks. It’s best to watch this video a month or two before fireworks start, so you have time to train, but it also gives you some ideas of what to do to help your dog on the day fireworks happen.

Continue reading (Video 69) The Sky is Falling! How to Survive Fireworks with Your Dog

(Video 68) Walking Your Dog Off Leash: Safety and Training

Have you ever come across off leash dogs on your walk? It’s fun to walk with your dog running free, but your dog being off leash may actually endanger other dogs or animals. Shouting “he’s friendly” is not enough when the other dog is on leash.

This video gives useful tips to help you keep your dog and others safe. It’s the neighborly thing to do whenever you choose to walk your dog off leash.

Continue reading (Video 68) Walking Your Dog Off Leash: Safety and Training

(Video 65) Make Your Life Easier with the Right Dog Gear

There are a ton of different dog training contraptions… clickers, choke chains, harnesses, long lines, e-collars, ex-pens, crates, and more. Which ones are right for you and your dog? Which ones can cause problems or harm? This video gives my recommendations on how to choose dog training and management gear.

Continue reading (Video 65) Make Your Life Easier with the Right Dog Gear

(Video 64) It’s a Baby! Help Your Dog Welcome Your New Child

If you are expecting a baby, congratulations! Not all dogs are keen to have a baby around, and even the happiest of dogs should be prepared to have another little human in the house. Having a baby will dramatically change your daily routine, which can be stressful for your dog. This video gives useful ideas to make your baby’s homecoming peaceful and easy.

Continue reading (Video 64) It’s a Baby! Help Your Dog Welcome Your New Child

(Video 63) Adding a New Dog to Your Home

Getting a new dog or puppy? Start out on the right paw, because first impressions really do count!

Take a few minutes to watch this video to get some tips on how to best introduce your new dog to the existing animals in the home. Following the tips in this video will help you prevent problems before they start, by avoiding fighting and reducing stress for everyone.

Continue reading (Video 63) Adding a New Dog to Your Home

(Video 62) Possession Aggression: How to Encourage Your Dog to Share with People

It’s very common for a dog to protect his prize resources. The good news is that “resource guarding” – growling, snapping, biting over food, toys, socks etc. is the easiest kind of aggression problem to solve in dogs, unless you use punishment. Watch this video for some useful advice.

Hint: It’s not a contest. Using force can backfire and lead to people getting bitten, especially kids. The trick is to teach your dog that sharing is awesome.

Continue reading (Video 62) Possession Aggression: How to Encourage Your Dog to Share with People

(Video 60) Mani-Pedi: How and Why to Trim Your Dog’s Nails

Does your dog fight you when you try to trim his nails? Are you not even sure how to do it right? Or does it seem like a stupid thing to do, anyway? Check out this video for why and how to trim your pet’s nails.

See also: (Video 59) Cooperative Grooming: 3 Tricks with a Purpose

Continue reading (Video 60) Mani-Pedi: How and Why to Trim Your Dog’s Nails

(Video 59) Cooperative Grooming: 3 Tricks with a Purpose

Does your dog freak out when you try to trim her nails or brush her? It doesn’t have to be that way, and there are much better options than just holding her down until it’s all over. This video goes through ways you can specifically train your dog to be a cooperative and enthusiastic partner for grooming. This helps prevent bites but also helps your dog stay comfortable and calm.

See also:

Continue reading (Video 59) Cooperative Grooming: 3 Tricks with a Purpose

(Video 58) Cooperative Vet Care: 3 Tricks with a Purpose

Your dog’s experience at the veterinarian’s office doesn’t have to be full of panic and fear. This video goes through ways you can specifically train your dog to be a cooperative partner in his veterinary care. This helps prevent bites but also helps your dog stay comfortable and calm.

See also: (Video 16) Vet Visit Stress Tips for Dogs

Continue reading (Video 58) Cooperative Vet Care: 3 Tricks with a Purpose

(Video 56) Let’s Go! 5 Tips to Keep Your Dog Walking

Do you have trouble getting your dog to move? I notice this “donkey dog” problem most with bulldogs and other short-nosed (brachycephalic) breeds, but it can happen with any dog, especially puppies. This video will explore this problem from the dog’s perspective and also give you tips to be able to walk *together* with your dog or puppy.

See also:

Continue reading (Video 56) Let’s Go! 5 Tips to Keep Your Dog Walking

(Video 55) Top Tips for Dogs in Apartments

Do you live in an apartment or condo with your dog? This video has some useful tips to keep your dog quiet and your neighbors happy. It also has great tips for getting past distractions and safely in and out of your building. This is especially useful if you have a dog with reactivity issues.

See also:

Continue reading (Video 55) Top Tips for Dogs in Apartments

(Video 53) Stress Adds Up: Trigger Stacking Leads to Reactivity

If you have trouble figuring out what’s causing your dog to explode with aggression, frustration, or fear, you might be missing an important variable: trigger stacking. Check out this short video to learn how stress piles up for dogs.

See also:

Continue reading (Video 53) Stress Adds Up: Trigger Stacking Leads to Reactivity

(Video 52) Dog Doors: When to Use and How to Train

A dog door (or cat door) can be a really convenient way to fix your housetraining problems, but there are some things you should know before cutting a hole in your door or wall. This video goes through the do’s and do not’s around pet doors and also explains how to train your dog to use the dog door.

See also:

Continue reading (Video 52) Dog Doors: When to Use and How to Train

(Video 51) How and Why to Teach Your Dog to Ring a Bell

Potty problems? Your dog can ring a bell to let you know when it’s time go outside. This video explains the perks of teaching your dog this trick and goes through some easy steps to train your dog to ring a bell.

See also: (Video 18) Tired of Cleaning Messes? Housetraining 101

Continue reading (Video 51) How and Why to Teach Your Dog to Ring a Bell

(Video 50) Wait: How and Why to Train a Solid Wait

Stop right there! Does your dog dash out of the house or pop out of the car as soon as you open the door?

Wait tells your dog that he should not get out of the car, leave the house, etc. It is different from Stay, which is about holding an exact position. This video explains some reasons to train your dog to Wait and teaches you how to get your dog to be an expert in patience.

Continue reading (Video 50) Wait: How and Why to Train a Solid Wait

(Video 49) Drop It: 3 Ways to Train a Fast, Reliable Drop

Does your puppy steal socks? Does your dog run after the ball to fetch, but run around and not give it back?

If your dog has something in her mouth, you can do some training so you don’t have to end up playing tug of war with your favorite shoes. Drop is not something dogs are born doing on cue, but it’s easy enough to teach a reliable Drop. This video goes over 3 ways to train your dog to quickly drop whatever is in her mouth!

Continue reading (Video 49) Drop It: 3 Ways to Train a Fast, Reliable Drop

(Video 48) On Target: How and Why to Train Touch

Touch is one of my very favorite dog training tools. Instead of physically grabbing your dog to get his body into a certain position, you can train him to touch his nose, hip, foot, etc. to a target. This is great for a range of things, from coming when called, to putting the harness on, to grooming and vet care. Touch is essential for all dogs.

See also: (Video 24) 6 Cue Words that Every Pet Should Know

Continue reading (Video 48) On Target: How and Why to Train Touch

(Video 47) Dog Parks: How to Stay Safe and Have Fun!

Dogs have played with each other as probably as long as the species existed, but dog parks are a relatively new phenomenon. Dog parks are usually fenced in and can be great socialization locations but they also have a fair number of risks. Please watch this video before taking any dog to a dog park, particularly those who are most at risk – puppies, dogs with fear issues, and rescue dogs.

Also check out
Video 45: Why Dogs Should Play with Other Dogs
Continue reading (Video 47) Dog Parks: How to Stay Safe and Have Fun!

(Video 46) Dog Playdate Safety

Dogs should socialize with all kinds of other dogs, but how do you get them together? And what if you just want to have friends over and they’re bringing their dog? Coordinating play dates can be a great way to set the dogs up for success and fun. This video shares some of the most useful tips to keep in mind for dog play dates.

Also check out Video 45: Why Dogs Should Play with Other Dogs
Continue reading (Video 46) Dog Playdate Safety

(Video 45) How and Why to Let Dogs Play Together

Play with other dogs is excellent physical and mental exercise, and that can solve a lot of behavior problems. Dogs also learn a lot from play and so can you! But how can you tell they are playing and be sure it’s a good experience for all involved? Check out this video for a look at how to supervise safe play between dogs.

Also check out Video 46: Dog Playdate Safety
Continue reading (Video 45) How and Why to Let Dogs Play Together

(Video 43) 20 Dog Training Cues to Make Life Easier!

Cues are often called ‘commands’ with punishment based training. It’s the word or signal used to tell your dog which specific behavior you want and might reinforce. If you’ve already watched 6 Cue Words that Every Pet Should Know and want more cues to teach your dog to make life easier and more fun, check out this video.
Continue reading (Video 43) 20 Dog Training Cues to Make Life Easier!

(Video 41) Fun Dog Brain Games for Happiness and Mental Health

If your dog is destroying your house or looks ‘depressed’ it may be that you just don’t have enough mental stimulation. Brain games are excellent for preventing separation anxiety, teaching dogs not to chew your furniture or other items, and just generally making your dog smarter and happier. Dogs and puppies are not natural freeloaders – they would rather work for their food than lie around all day doing nothing. This video has several practical ideas to solve behavior problems and help your dog have more fun!

Also watch: Rainy Day Dogs: How to Exercise Your Dog Indoors

Continue reading (Video 41) Fun Dog Brain Games for Happiness and Mental Health

(Video 40) When Can I Stop Using Dog Treats?

Teaching your dog with positive reinforcement doesn’t mean that you have to be a food dispenser for the rest of your dog’s life. Part of reliable dog training is having your dog listen to you without having treats in your hands or even needing to feed all the time. Humans, dogs, and other species don’t work for free, but there are a lot of reinforcers out there besides for just food. These tips and tricks will help you wean off of constantly treating your dog for every single behavior.
Continue reading (Video 40) When Can I Stop Using Dog Treats?

EBook: Entrenamiento para el Ajuste del Comportamiento BAT 2.0

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Put eBooks in folders designated here – folder name is related to the ccaps [/php][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the user info that you created. [Iniciar sesión]

“BAT 2.0 es de lectura obligada para quien trabaje con perros reactivos.” – Victoria Stilwell

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_005_bat_es)]

Gracias por adquirir este eBook.
Para descargarlo, haz click en el formato que desees. Para teléfono móvil, quizá tengas primero que descargarlo a tu ordenador y después transferirlo a tu smartphone.

Más recursos:


[/s2If]Empodera a tu perro, mejorando su confianza y habilidades sociales. Con BAT 2.0, Grisha Stewart ha reajustado por completo el Entrenamiento para el Ajuste del Comportamiento (BAT) creando una nueva herramienta eficaz y práctica para tratar la reactividad canina.

BAT 2.0 construye resiliencia y autoconfianza en los perros, dándoles opciones de aprender de modo seguro acerca de las personas, perros y demás “detonantes” del entorno. Escrito con gran claridad para que todos puedan aprender, este libro incluye además consejos técnicos y capítulos extra, específicos para profesionales del comportamiento canino.

Aprenderás a:

  • Rehabilitar perros con problemas de agresión, frustración y miedo.
  • Usar técnicas de supervivencia para prevenir la reactividad en los paseos y en el hogar.
  • Emplear una correa larga para maximizar la libertad de movimiento de tu perro de modo seguro.
  • Aplicar la filosofía BAT de Grisha con todo tipo de perros y cachorros…¡recuperando tu vida normal!

This is Grisha’s BAT 2.0 book in Spanish, translated by Certified BAT Instructor Luis Gomez, published by Grisha’s company, Empowered Animals.

Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA es una entrenadora canina y reconocida ponente internacional, especializada en el empoderamiento y la reactividad canina. Es autora de dos libros, varios DVDs, y dirige una escuela de entrenamiento online desde Alaska. Grisha también es la fundadora de la escuela Ahimsa Dog Training en Seattle, que ha sido galardonada en numerosas ocasiones, incluyendo la Mejor Escuela de Washington Oeste.

“Ahimsa” es una doctrina budista sobre la no violencia hacia todas las criaturas vivientes, reflejando su enfoque sobre el entrenamiento basado en el empoderamiento de todos los animales, incluyendo las personas. Grisha tiene un Máster en Matemáticas por el Bryn Mawr College y un postgrado en psicología especializándose en comportamiento animal, por la Antioch University. Su primera carrera en matemáticas le fue muy útil como adiestradora y consultora en comportamiento canino, porque confía plenamente en la resolución de problemas, el pensamiento crítico y las habilidades pedagógicas que aplicó en ese campo.

A Grisha le fascina el comportamiento canino y está realmente motivada por ayudar a mejorar nuestras técnicas para rehabilitar y adiestrar a los perros. Sus intereses profesionales en torno a la reactividad, junto con la necesidad de encontrar un método de rehabilitación eficiente que pudiese funcionar con su propio perro miedoso, llevó a Grisha a desarrollar el Adiestramiento para el Ajuste del Comportamiento (BAT).

Para ver el calendario con los próximos seminarios BAT, aprender más sobre BAT, acceder a vídeos en streaming, concertar una consulta online, participar en los chats sobre BAT, o registrarte para los cursos online, entra en GrishaStewart.com Grisha es una incansable senderista, mediocre pero entusiasta escaladora, y una apasionada defensora del entrenamiento y cuidado amable de los animales.

Please note: Thank you for purchasing your own copy, and for using my website! eBooks are for use on your devices only. It is illegal (and just mean to authors) to share or sell the files with others.

[php]

$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “ebook_005_bat_es”;
$desc = “eBook: BAT 2.0 Espanol”;
$price = “9.99”;
$productType = “ebooks”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

  1. Entendiendo BAT: Conceptos Clave
  2. El Regreso del BAT-dog: Las Lecciones de Peanut
  3. Ajustes Rápidos: Fundamentos sobre Gestión y Seguridad
  4. Cómo Prevenir los Problemas
  5. Técnicas de Correa para Mayor Seguridad y Libertad
  6. Puestas en Escena BAT para la Reactividad
  7. Marca y Muévete: Distancias Cortas y Espacios Reducidos
  8. Solución de Imprevistos en BAT
  9. Sorpresa: Contraste Ambiental Repentino
  10. BAT para los Paseos Diarios
  11. Amarás a tu Prójimo: Peleas en Vallas
  12.  ¿Quién eres? Enséñale a Disfrutar las Visitas
  13. BAT para la Socialización del Cachorro
  14. Entrenadores y Terapeutas: BAT con los Clientes
  15. Conclusión
  • Apéndice 1 – Fundamentos del Entrenamiento con Clicker
  • Apéndice 2 – Otras técnicas que emplean Refuerzos Funcionales
  • Apéndice 3 – Para Profesionales: Jerga Técnica sobre Términos y Cuadrantes

Reviews

Lo que dicen los expertos sobre Entrenamiento para el Ajuste del Comportamiento.

BAT 2.0 es de lectura obligada para quien trabaje con perros reactivos. Durante años, perros de todo el mundo se han beneficiado de los enfoques y las técnicas de empoderamiento de BAT, y ahora Grisha Stewart lo ha llevado al siguiente nivel. Un clara sensibilidad por la experiencia del perro, y técnicas prácticas y fáciles de seguir, hacen que BAT 2.0 sea muy beneficioso para los perros con frustración, ansiedad o miedo en cualquier contexto social. Stewart devuelve el control al perro, permitiendo un delicado equilibrio entre libertad, la capacidad de tomar decisiones, y la seguridad. Recomiendo encarecidamente BAT 2.0 a todo el que esté sufriendo por un perro reactivo, o quiera tener una mejor comprensión de su compañero canino.

Victoria Stilwell, escritora, Train Your Dog Positively

Cuando pregunto a profesionales: “¿Para qué tenéis ojos?” responden entusiasmados: “¡Para ver!”, pero cuand pregunto: “¿Para qué es vuestra conducta?” la sala queda en silencio. En BAT 2.0, Grisha Stewart ofrece la respuesta esencial a esta importante pregunta: la conducta debe tener un efecto, debe ser efectiva. Al permitir de un modo seguro que los perros tengan un mayor control sobre sus consecuencias, especialmente en entornos complicados en los que es probable una respuesta de miedo, frustración o agresión, los cuidadores tendrán más éxito moldeando a compañeros autónomos, competentes y confiados.

Susan G. Friedman, Ph.D., Profesora Emérita en la Universidad de Utah. www.behaviorworks.org

BAT 2.0 es único—un documento vivo que detalla la evolución de un tipo de intervención muy efectivo desde la experiencia de muchos entrenadores. Adoro el carácter práctico de este libro, así como la dedicación de Grisha Stewart’s para dar a los perros ¡voz en su propia evolución! Es una lectura indispensable para aquellos que trabajen con la reactividad canina en cualquiera de sus formas.

Risë VanFleet, Ph.D., CDBC, escritor, The Human Half of Dog Training

Como entrenador de clicker, aprecio mucho la creatividad. Me encanta cuando veo a un entrenador usar las leyes del aprendizaje de nuevas y creativas formas que resultan en mejoras para el entrenamiento canino. Lo que ha conseguido Grisha con BAT 2.0 es exactamente eso. Su método combina el condicionamiento clásico y el operante con un gran conocimiento del lenguaje natural y el comportamiento canino. Y a pesar de estar apoyado en ciencia compleja, Grisha lo explica de un modo claro y sencillo de modo que todos pueden entenderlo—¡y practicarlo!

Morten Egtvedt, Director en Canis Clicker Training Academy

Me encanta el enfoque pedagógico de BAT 2.0 y cómo se centra en dar al perro la sensación de control en su propia vida, después de todo es un elemento imprescindible si quieres que tu perro se sienta feliz y seguro. También les da la capacidad de predecir eventos en el entorno, lo que fortalece aún más su autoconfianza y así saben que tienen control sobre las situaciones importantes de sus vidas.

Anders Hallgren, escritor, Estrés, Ansiedad y Agresividad en Perros

BAT 2.0 muestra cómo Grisha está continuamente evaluando y ajustando sus propias técnicas de modificación de conductas. Ha avanzado mucho en su búsqueda para ayudar a proporcionar un mayor bienestar emocional a los perros.

Terry Ryan, escritora, The Toolbox: las herramientas para construir un gran perro de compañía

How Do I Get My Dog’s Consent for Nail Trimming?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • I like the consent approach to nails you mentioned in the Consent seminar earlier today. I am currently trimming my dogs overly long nails a tiny bit once a week with his begrudging agreement or tolerance. How would I retrain for consent, while still keeping his nails short enough. He already has long nails due to long quicks (I assume from me not being good enough about nails when he was a puppy).
  • I was worried about a scratch board hurting his paw pads?
  • What’s your favorite treat reinforcer right now for the dogs?
  • I also talked about:
    • This is the last office hours for now! Thank you all so much for being here!

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Can I Get My Dog to Be Quiet (Stop Barking)?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • What is the best way to quiet a dog that is barking out of concern or worry ie he hears fireworks. In the past I have checked out the noise for him and tried calming touch which works somewhat. Now I have a sick cat and would like to be able to cue a quiet verbally while tending to the cat. I tried capturing quiet and putting it on cue but this doesn’t carry over to worried barking. Any ideas?
  • How would you handle off leash dogs approaching you and your dog while on a walk?
  • What are your thoughts on the pet tutor?
  • I’ve got a big question for you today 🙂 When you bring home a rescue dog that is known to be fearful but otherwise has an unknown number of behavior issues what do you think is the most important thing to do or not do in the dog’s first couple weeks in their new home in order to get things started off on the right foot?
  • Hi Grisha, I was hoping for a little advice on forming a group to do BAT set ups. We live in Kodiak, my pup is a bit of a ‘tarzan’ dog and is leash reactive in a frustrated, anxious way. Is it OK to do some Bat set ups with other leash reactive pups? Thank you!
  • I also talked about:
    • Doorbell training for dogs using differential reinforcement of alternate behavior (video from the same session as last week’s office hours)
    • 5-second rule for petting (video of dog in Spain)
    • Live training with Bean (briefly).

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • My Facebook events page
  • Seminar listings on this site
  • BAT DVDs (also available in streaming format) including Survival Skills
  • Facebook info on Don’t Just Grab the Pussy: Consent in All Species
  • Pet Tutor – I also talked about it in the 2/16 office hours, with sort of a demo.I mentioned several remote treat dispensers and cameras. The Pet Tutor (use coupon code grishastewart for Free Shipping), Petzi Treat Cam, and the Pet Cube.  Pawbo does look like a better option for video because it records and sends to dropbox and may have sound on the video. Petzi does not do video and Pet Cube does not have sound on the videos, but both have sound in live streaming. PetCube keeps adding more good features tough.

    NOTE – I don’t recommend using the laser feature with dogs on any of the devices. Laser pointers can create obsessive-compulsive (OCD) light-chasing behavior in dogs that’s very hard to get rid of.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Jordan Shelley (Crossover Training, Reactivity) Recording

Don’t Just Grab the Pussycat: the Power of Consent in All Species (1.75 Hours)

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_032_consent)]

Thank you for your registration!

Important Information:

  • Slide Notes. This PDF is only for your own use; please do not share. This is a good document to download to write your notes on.

[/s2If][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this presentation, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

hug-dogDid you know that your dog might not actually like being picked up? Or that “not running away” is not the same as your cat consenting to be petted? Did you know that putting your hand out into a dog’s space is actually NOT a polite thing to do in the dog world? Or that most of the photos of ‘happy dogs’ getting hugs on Facebook are probably not actually happy?

Consent before touching (or lack thereof) was a hot topic in the 2016 US election and also before that with some well-publicized crimes. It has continued to stay in the consciousness of the Western world with the #metoo movement, supreme court confirmations, and various other events. One of the interesting and tragic things about consent is that it is applied differently to different genders, species, and cultural groups.

This seminar was recorded live in December 2016 and is available for you to view at any time!

Topics:

This online seminar explores boundaries and consent:

  • Boundary setting in humans and non-human animals
  • How consent can only be given in the moment. Authentic consent cannot be given after the fact or in advance.
  • Effects of contact without consent
  • Benefits of asking for consent before physical contact
  • How to ask for and receive consent from non-human animals
  • Comparison of different animal training techniques and how they relate to consent
  • How helping your dog communicate consent and cut-off signals can improve your dog’s behavior and your relationship with your dog
  • How clear consent of your own boundaries can improve your relationship and sex life with your human partner(s)
  • How to defend your animal’s right to give/deny consent
  • How discussing consent in contact with animals can educate humans about boundaries with one another

(topics subject to change)

Presentation is online with live video, powerpoint, and recorded videos. The presentation will be recorded, so don’t worry if you can’t make the date.

ADULT CONTENT WARNING: This seminar is not just about dog training, but about personal contact between humans. I recommend only adults register, as there will be some discussion of consent and safe words between humans for intimate contact (including sex). This is not your usual dog training seminar.

ABOUT GRISHA:

Grisha and Bean, Photo by Kaden Weaver

Grisha Stewart is an author, international speaker, and dog trainer who specializes in dog reactivity. She founded Empowered Animals and the online Animal Building Blocks Academy in Alaska and Ahimsa Dog Training in Seattle, which has earned many awards, including Best of Western Washington.

“Ahimsa” is a Buddhist doctrine of nonviolence to all living things, which reflects Grisha’s focus on force-free methods to promote the well-being of dogs and their humans.

More info about Grisha: http://grishastewart.com/grisha

About This Online Seminar Recording:

  • Recorded live December 13, 2016
  • Stream on your computer or mobile device (not a download or a physical DVD)
  • Run time: 1 hr 45 mins
  • CEUs are not available for this seminar.

[php]

$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “webinar_032_consent”;
$desc = “Consent Webinar”;
$price = “39”;
$productType = “webinars”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]Webinars

[PHP] // ****** GRISHA: ADD CEU LINK TO THIS PAGE, NOT JUST VIMEO – DO IT ON THE DATE OF THE SEMINAR. For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/PHP][PHP]buyNowButton(“webinar_032_consent”)[/PHP]

When Can I Let My Dog Greet During a BAT Set-Up?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • I did 2 BAT session with a 1/2 familiar trigger(person) with my dog. the last session she started to vocalize excitedly (telling me that she knew the person and is ok with her)when she saw the trigger but she didn’t wag her tail. So I didn’t let her go up and continued the BAT session coming up to 1-2 meter to trigger. When do I know is a good time to let her go up to trigger?
  • My other question is: Could you do a video on bringing a person( trigger) into house and how a session in the house would look like (close up BAT work)??? I really would love that and its so much better to learn from a video than just reading it in the book. thank you sooo sooo much.
  • Hi Grisha, I hope you don’t mind me asking but how long would you say it took you with Peanut to improve his reactivity using BAT and how much time on a daily basis did you spend working with him? I have had Lily who is rescue for nearly 3 years now but only discovered BAT about a year and a half ago and have been working hard but there always seems so many setbacks and so much to learn.
  • How could I use BAT on our daily walks? I have a rescue pup, he is two years old and seems to get very anxious with other dogs if he is on leash.
    We try our best to avoid situations where he goes way over threshold but its reeally hard here.
  • I couldn’t find the info about upcoming European seminars, where are they held?
  • I also talked about:
    • Doorbell training for dogs using differential reinforcement of alternate behavior.
    • Live training with Bean and Zuki.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Reduce Stress / Manage My Dog During Construction?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Looking for some advice on the best way to manage and potentially simultaneously reduce stress on my dog during a bathroom remodel in an apartment. I’ve been staying with him in a separate room and rewarding calm behavior in addition to trying to toss treats or give small amounts of peanut butter after hammering, drills, etc. But not sure if it will be beneficial if he is too close to the stimuli.
  • Seeking cat empowerment advice: Positive ways to help my cat curb her vocalizing at mealtimes? Right now I’m relying on negative reinforcement and I’m not comfortable with it (ie, I leave the kitchen or food goes away when she starts yowling, etc.) I’m about to start her on food toys so expect that will help, and feeding her in unexpected places at unexpected times.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

(Video 39) Top Tips for Reliable Dog Training

Does your dog sit at home, when you have a cookie, but not when you are out on a walk or when guests come over? With a fully trained cue, you should be able to get reliable behavior in just about any situation, and definitely not just when you have a treat in your hand.  If your dog isn’t responding to your cues, that doesn’t mean he’s stubborn, stupid, or dominant. It just means that you have missed an aspect of your training. Watch this video for tips on building reliability, for dog training you can trust.
Continue reading (Video 39) Top Tips for Reliable Dog Training

(Video 38) This Means That: How to To Add a Cue to Behavior

Cues like “Sit,” “Down,” etc. are how we ask for behavior (similar to commands but different, as you’ll see in this video). Cues are signals that tell the dog that a specific behavior might earn a reinforcer. A cue can be anything the animal can perceive – hand signals, spoken words, random sounds, doorbell, scent, etc. This video will teach you how to add a cue to a behavior that your dog is already performing, as well as transfer from an old cue to a new cue. Watch my 4 Ways to Get Behavior video to teach them to do a behavior in the first place.
Continue reading (Video 38) This Means That: How to To Add a Cue to Behavior

(Video 26) How to Fix a Dog’s Fear of the Clicker

Clicker training uses a marker to tell the animal that the behavior was correct and has earned a reinforcer. It’s a way to say “YES, do that again!” But sometimes dogs, cats or other animals are afraid of the clicker sound. In this video, Grisha goes over ways to help pets get over their fear of the clicker – and how to train in the meantime.
Continue reading (Video 26) How to Fix a Dog’s Fear of the Clicker

(Video 36) 4 Ways to Get Your Dog to Do a Specific Behavior

Positive reinforcement is very effective, but how do you get the dog to do something that you can reinforce in the first place? One outdated option is to just force the dog into the position, like picking up the paw or pushing the dog into a sit. It ‘works’ but there is an emotional cost when you force behavior instead of setting up a situation where the animal will offer it. Fortunately, humans are pretty smart and have developed much more empowering ways to get behavior! Watch this video to learn how to use 4 essential ways to get non-verbal animals to offer behavior: shaping, luring, capturing, and modeling/copying.
Continue reading (Video 36) 4 Ways to Get Your Dog to Do a Specific Behavior

(Video 28) Play With Me! How & Why To Play With Your Pet

Does your dog or cat like the way you play? Are you sure? Each animal has his own preferences about what kind of play is actually fun and which kind is boring or even stressful. In this video, Grisha gives some tips on how to play with dogs other animals, how to know they are enjoying the games, what kind of play to avoid, and how to use play in training.
Continue reading (Video 28) Play With Me! How & Why To Play With Your Pet

If One Dog Drops a Toy, Can Another Pick It Up? (Resource Guarding)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • I have 2 dogs who both will resource guard certain toys. The dogs have only been living together for 3 mos. They have gotten a lot better at reading each other since they met, so now they can play/chew near each other. Does it matter if we are particular about who gets what toy? What should I do if one dog’s toy falls off the couch and the other takes it? I want to make sure I’m not messing up.
  • After a “let’s go” encounter where another dog has gotten a bit too close, is it beneficial to ‘return to the scene of the crime’ after the other dog has passed by, to reinforce that particular location has no bad ‘mojo’ to it? Or do you feel it doesn’t really matter?
  • Are you going to do a video about the CleverPet?
  • I also talked about
    • The future of the office hours and Facebook group.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Anders Hallgren (Animal Behaviorist) Recording

What Would Your Dream Animal Shelter Look Like?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • My dog is getting more and more scared of sudden sounds outside. He has always been very worried when we go out for a walk and I have done a lot of counterconditioning and games to make him feel more confident and safe. It was going fine but now thanks to the hunting season things are getting worse. I can’t make him relax anymore once he gets scared until we get home.
  • Dog Sanctuary/rehab facility. We are going to “rewrite the book” if you could do this what would your “must haves” be for the dogs. In whatever capacity – environment, staff, supplies, set up. If money is no object what would be your top requirements? Thanks in advance!
  • My dog is cautious by nature, especially of new things, yet he enjoys going on walks in new areas. After this past new years he was traumatized by fireworks and I feel it affected his nervous system for some months. I backed off on the training and tried to do calming things and empower him and set up a lot of routine. Now we are getting back into agility training and it is recommended to introduce him to one new thing everyday. I would imagine there should be a balance between routine and novelty. He is 3 1/2 years old. Ive had him since a puppy. What are your thoughts on this situations and your thoughts on how to handle the balance between routine and novelty for all dogs, but especially one like him, sensitive. Thanks
  • Hi Grisha, I think you said (or I read it somewhere else) that for the time I’m doing loose leash training with my dog, I should attach the leash to the back clip for training sessions and to the front chest clip in situations where she might pull. Do you think this makes a big difference for the dogs or is it just an “emergency” solution?
  • Can you elaborate on the B complex vitamin benefits?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Train My Dog to Wear Boots? Or a Muzzle?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • I’ve heard trainers promote fetch as a form of exercise. I’ve recently taught Astra to fetch but to provent it from becoming a fun activity away from me, I’ve play a tug game when she comes back and do othr behaviours. Was interested in your thoughts on fetch?
  • My dog unfortunately got the chance to chase a chicken at the beach a week ago. He caught it by the tail feathers before I could get his attention, neither chicken nor dog were hurt. I feel like he’s been more tired than normal since then. Is this normal. Could he have just over stressed his system and it’s taking a while to recover?
    • To be fair he had a big weekend before the Tuesday beach outing. Nosework trials sat and Sunday and agility class Sunday evening. More than his normal schedule
  • Why “good choice” instead of “good boy?”
  • Do you have a resource for where to buy and how to fit a muzzle (for a small Bean sized dog)
  • I also talked about:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

What Tips Do You Have for Camping with Your Dog?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • What are some of the ways to minimise distress to dogs when partners split up and one leaves the family home?
  • This might seem like a strange question but I have heard you mention using a zig zag approach when approaching the Helper but how do you do this approach if the dog is not doing it on their own . So … we lead the dog ? That doesn’t seem what you would mean
  • Hi Grisha, just thinking about the Bat theory test [for CBATI certification]. I have the outline for the PSA side of the certification process but is there a guide as to what is covered in the theory part? I.e. is it all about BAT theory & usage or does it include other areas such as learning theory, body language etc. Just trying to judge whether ready to take the plunge. Thank you and looking forward to November 🙂
  • When I go off leash bushwalking with Astra, she’s not interested recalling for food or a game. This has limited how much off lead walks we can do. Today I started a game of tossing the treat but fainted moving in different directions to get her excited. It worked quite well, but I’m wondering what else I can try apart from jumping around like a crazy owner (haha) and using super high value treats.
  • We have a question for anyone who has moved from an apartment where the dog always had to be taken out on leash to potty into a house with a yard? Our friends’ Bulldog, Duke, won’t use the yard at all. It is all grass with cement walks on both sides and a cement patio. He did go when we brought our two female dogs over but wouldn’t go again once they left. Any ideas to help get Duke to potty in his new yard? Thanks!
  • I walk a female Poodle. I usually carry my little female through her house to the back door which is where we start our walk. One day I decided to let her walk through to the back door. Can you tell me why, when they were outside the female dog lifted her leg & peed on my smaller female dog? Just wondered what was going through her head? Interesting.
  • I also talked about:
    • Monthly Challenge: conditioning a muzzle, harness, or other gear. Prize: Ahimsa Dog Training manual – print or eBook
    • Happy dog camping tips (for dogs with reactivity issues)
    • Socially motivated dogs and personal play

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Small Dogs Rule! (1.5 hours)

Online seminar recorded October 4, 2016 – Presented by: Grisha Stewart.Small dogs are awesome and amazing to live with. There are some specific challenges that people face when they care for small dogs, including bias from other people, safety issues, aggression, and training problems. This seminar discusses empowerment and positive dog training that will be helpful for both regular pet folks and professional trainers.


Continue reading Small Dogs Rule! (1.5 hours)

Laura Nativo (Animal Acting) Recording

How Do I Switch Between BAT Mode and Transport Mode?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • am having a problem finding the appropriate back attachment harness for my 9 pound poodle. (breast bone 15 ‘)I have ordered many and sent them all back.
    Any tips on a small comfy BAT harness?
  • My dog (9 months old) is really great when my Yoga students come to the house. He’s calm, doesn’t jump up and greets everyone nicely. I can have up to 6 people come at once and have worked very hard at teaching him that this is appropriate behavior when we have guests.
    However, we had a house painter come to give an estimate and this morning a friend came to look at doing some other work in the yard and my dog LOST HIS MIND! Help!
  • We have a question for anyone who has moved from an apartment where the dog always had to be taken out on leash to potty into a house with a yard? Our friends’ Bulldog, Duke, won’t use the yard at all. It is all grass with cement walks on both sides and a cement patio. He did go when we brought our two female dogs over but wouldn’t go again once they left. Any ideas to help get Duke to potty in his new yard?
  • I watched the BAT Feature FIlm “Walk with me” and there’s one thing I haven’t understood. I love the concept of giving your dog time to sniff around and just let her determine where she wants to go and to sniff. Just how can I tell my dog, without frustrating her, that now is not the time for BAT but for a brisk walking pace?
  • I also talked about:
    • Is it okay to have your dog above you while you lie down?
    • Training the Down cue with Zuki (and double-dog training using stationing)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • Online Seminar: Small Dogs Rule is today October 4. Webinar for all dog lovers, with discounts just for ABBA members. Recording is available for purchase after the seminar.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

What Do the Lyrics of the BAT Song Mean?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Does the crate training section of the Empowered Puppy Raising course cover preventing separation issues in general? It’s one of my weak points and I’d like to make sure I’m as educated as possible in prevention methods before I get a puppy.
  • Also, I assume the “crate” training can be applied to any containment space for the puppy, like an ex-pen, since your views on crates have changed?
  • I registered for the BAT 101 training course and began watching it yesterday. So far the material covered has been great. During the video there is mention of what zone the dog is in, for example he is still in the blue zone, however I never saw the zones explained and did not see a handout.Is there a handout that covers this or is this covered somewhere that I can reference?
  • Can you go through the words of the BAT song? [original song video posted below]
  • I know each case is individual, but in general, what steps do you take when you have two dogs fighting in the house? Now that the second dog is an adolescent the two dogs have started to argue over resources.
  • We were at your LB seminar and you mentioned the importance of providing dogs with the opportunity to “potty” during the day. We had a 6 x 10′ wire mesh kennel built right outside the house with a dog door but can’t get them to “potty” there while we are at work. Any ideas to help train them? It is cement with a 2×10′ strip of river rock. We did try putting a piece of grass in but still no luck.
  • What do you recommend for a dog who resource guards against the husband when food is on the table? Husband doesn’t have great skills. He’s tried tossing treats when he comes in the room, but timing etc is off.
  • I also talked about:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get Dog Helpers for BAT Set-Ups?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Unfortunately, for those of us that do not have the money or many close friends and family that are comfortable with dogs, let alone reactive dogs, could you please advise how we are able to do the BAT setups without assistance?
  • This questions relates to the fact my dog has chased cars, which I’m doing car desentisation with her, can a dogs emotional state change with verbal encouragement and massage? Last night she trigger stacked about noises in the country, some of which I couldnt hear. I used treats which she took and she came to me and accepted my massage and cuddles but did still bark and growl.
  • My dog is terrified by strangers and lunges and barks at them. Also she has nipped a person before. Now, I am in the process of starting BAT set ups soon. But in the meantime, until she is lots better with strangers, if she has to go to the vet, what would be your suggestions of how to make her not completely loosing it at at the vet?
  • Limited BAT set up areas that have people and dogs but can be at a safe distance. Large field surrounded by trees/shrubs, in between field and trees is walking path. She zooms in field from one sniff to the next going closer to path. Do slow stop but then have to redirect as she wants to be on path nearer trees. Is it OK to keep redirecting back to field area? No other venue w/safe distance.
  • I also talked about:
    • BAT leash skills video demo
    • Dog begging at the table
  • For next week: Hi Grisha! I know each case is individual, but in general, what steps do you take when you have two dogs fighting in the house? Now that the second dog is an adolescent the two dogs have started to argue over resources.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Dog to Stay Outside Alone or Come Inside?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • How can I teach my dogs to stop playing with each other on command? My daughter and I got puppies 1 month apart almost two years ago. They have been raised separately (for the most part) in the same house. Sometimes the male gets too rough grabs the girls scruff and wont let go. We try to stop him but he runs from us and goes back to play rough again. Timeouts made him aggressive.
  • Am I doing the intermediate marker correctly for the chin rest in this video?
  • I also talked about:
    • Teaching a dog to like the ocean or other water
    • Dogs and people who won’t drop toys
    • What to do if another dog comes up at the beach to play
    • Getting Zuki to stay outside on her own without me (and how that’s related to getting dogs to come back inside – see this Facebook post for the question about Milo)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Dog to Stop (play) Biting Me?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • We are needing some creative ways to stop play-biting. Maybe I made that word up, but our foster/potentially forever dog bites like a puppy. But he’s not a puppy and his big teeth HURT. I am covered in bruises from him chomping on me.
  • I’ve come to the conclusion that playing “fetch” is the devil’s work. Park loves to play fetch, but it seems to set off a behavior of getting way too excited, charging me, jumping and biting. I know this is also partly a product of boredom, but it’s horribly painful in the meantime. He also does it after he poops, I guess that’s really exciting to him, also!
  • Has anyone actually tried the orapup tongue brush? What’s your feedback?
  • My new dog has an extremely lovable disposition under layers and layers of anxiety and reactivity. We are committed to Pepper, and came across BAT from our Vet that recommended it. She has presented the biggest challenges to date of any dog we’ve ever had…we are reading BAT 2.0 and it’s a little over our heads with ALL of the things.
  • How do we feel about doggie day care? Our vet offers it, I’m just a little hesitant.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Is it Play or Fighting? Pigs and Dogs, Dogs and Dogs

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Is It okay to have two break cues back to back. This evening I broke Astra out of her crate in my van, clipped on her lead and said another ‘break’ for her to jump down out of the van.
  • I’ve recently determined that my guy Arnold is really only reactive (lunging / raised hackles) towards other dogs when they look at him. How might I use that knowledge to make the most use out of our BAT set-ups?
  • I also talked about
    • Body language in several videos, including dogs at a music festival and a dog and pig “best friend” viral video from Facebook.
    • Chin targeting videos posted for the August Monthly Challenge.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Which Dog Training Certifications/Organizations Should I Do?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Wondering if you could speak about your feelings on the different certifications out there for dog training and pro/cons things to look for? So many more choices and haven’t researched as much as I would like. Other places conversations can get heated, but your forum is of conversation and education so I am hoping for some insight as I decide who to renew/join for the new year.
  • What camera do you use to record your videos, is it a go-pro? I’m looking to get one to use slow-motion in order for my own knowledge and be able to watch training sessions after so I can breakdown the body language and spot things I missed.
  • I have noticed that when Spice is chin targetting the towel on her chair her tail is very low and as I progress it slightly tucks under. She doesn’t take her head off the towel to ask for me to stop and her face is very relaxed. She actually presses her chin down harder to indicate I can keep brushing etc. I feel she might be conflicted in some way, how would you approach this?
  • I also talked about
    • The resource guarding from Bean directed at Zuki in my last office hours. I replayed it and went over body language.
    • Chin targeting videos posted for the August Monthly Challenge.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

My Dogs are Resource Guarding During Training

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • What vet handling do you do with Bean? I’ve been working on chin rests, eye and ear treatment, checking and brushing teeth, lifting her tail for a temperature but check, nail clipping. Do you have any other suggestions?
  • One leash skill I need to work on is relaxing the line after a slow stop. Usually this is pretty easy but sometimes Freyja inches forward as soon as I begin to relax the line. I slow stop her either because she is going straight toward the other student dog, or heading that way due to a scent or treats on the ground. How many times should I attempt to relax the line before switching tactics?
  • I also talked about
    • Chin targeting as the Monthly Challenge. This is really great for grooming, vet care, stand for exam, and other body handling.
    • I did some chin target training with Bean and Zuki jumped up while we were working. Bean told her off so I talked about how to work on that issue. I will go over the body language in the snarky moments in live office hours  next week.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Make Dog Mealtimes More Calm?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • How do you make meal times less exciting?
  • My dog started “telling off” intact male dogs when he was around 2 years old. He has mostly limited this behavior to our neighborhood small dog park. He approaches the dog, freezes and then bark/growls lunges. Oddly afterwards the dogs always want to come back to him! Off leash is the main problem. I do my best to not to let him rehearse this behavior, but how do I handle this?
  • I am new to BAT but am reading through the 2.0 book and wondering how to go about helping my lurcher Ziggy. He seems to be a frustrated greeter with some anxiety, he is fine on a lead greeting older or disabled dogs, dogs that appear quickly, dogs from the side or behind. What he doesn’t seem to know what to do about is dogs approaching head on. He goes into a low stalk position then lies down. When the other dog approaches he either jumps up to say hello or lunges towards it and barks I suppose it depends on what the signals are from the other dog. I am not sure how to address this using the BAT method I wonder if someone can point me in the right direction please. He does this off lead too.
    • Follow-up: He does have a really good recall but in this situation he seems overaroused and doesn’t listen as well? Yes he’s a small dog
    • Follow-up: I have done the scoop up and it seems to make him worse? The scoop up seems to intensify him wanting to get to them like revving him up.
  • My dogs bark at noises they hear outside when they are in the house. Examples: neighbors talking, car doors closing, kids playing….It drives me crazy! We have the dogs go their mat when they bark and if they do, they get a treat for being quiet on their mat. However, this has not decreased the barking. How do I recondition the desire to bark?
    • Follow-up: What if you don’t hear the sound. Do you still cue mat and treat. Because I think my dog would figure this pattern out and want to bark to get the chance to work for a treat
    • Follow-up: Do you have any examples of sounds that are music but have background variation to help with the sound desensitization? Is Through a Dog’s Ear a good one?
  • I know that you are a big believer in TTouch and massage for relaxing dogs. I have read that sometimes even a few seconds of TTouch can cause a dog to feel the need to move, since it creates changes in the dog’s nervous system. How can one tell if a dog sensitive to touch is improving, even slowly? (It is not easy to apply the 5 second rule in this case.) Thank you.
  • Outside of times when people are interacting with a dog in a household, is it of consequence if they continue an oral dialogue with the dog?
    For example, outside of cues and letting the dog know, “A dog is coming,” “We are going out,” does it make voice interaction more salient if the humans do not just speak in general to the dog unless they are conveying information.
  • 1) What size bell are you using on Bean in your “Dog Collar Debate” video and does it impact his ability to hear you? 2) Can you discuss the relative merits/disadvantages of using a cued “go sniff” as other dogs are approaching in non-BAT scenarios (the ground, not the other dog)? I don’t want to lose a learning opportunity but dogs seem more likely to ignore us in that posture.
  • What would be the down side to leaving a puppy with mum and siblings till 12 weeks old?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Veronica Boutelle (pet business advice) Recording

Main topic: Meeting My New Dog Azuki (with videos)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Congratulations on your new dog! What will you be focusing on with her first? Also, you mentioned that you wanted to have her be at a lower body weight. How will you work on this? Thank you
  • I’m moving from Seattle to South Korea this Friday where there are many stray dogs, cats, and many triggers for Oreo like bicycles approaching from behind. I will leave with family(on 3rd floor). Also, there will be many people and cars, coming and going since there is a hardware store on the 1st floor. What can I do to help her adjust to new environment and introduce my whole family to her?
  • Do you feel it is good for a dog’s mental health to have another dog to live with? Would you have sought out another dog anyway if your sister wasn’t looking to re-home hers?
  • I also talked about:
    • Meeting Zuki (with video of her first barky reaction and changes)
    • Introducing Bean and Zuki (with video and live commentary)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Should I Let My Dog Move Away if Afraid?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • My dog keeps playing with a leash on our walk. Whenever she does that, I immediately stop moving, but she doesn’t care about it. Now, she thinks it’s more fun to play with it since we recently switched to a long BAT leash. What should I do?
  • You mentioned in your last Q&A that you being the handler in a BAT setup would just cause frustration for Bean. I was dogsitting and thought i could practice a BAT setup with my dog even though i knew there wasnt going to be a problem. I used my daughter as the handler. My dog was so frustrated that she couldnt get to her and the intro went bad. Should I use an unfamiliar person as the handler?
  • A colleague and family, (2 children have a dog with both fearful and reactive tendencies. Recently family members were away, (a change in the dog’s schedule,) and the dog both eliminated on the carpet and was ‘mounting’ the bed in the parent’s room? Would you think that the mounting of the bed could be related to feelings of anxiety due to the sudden change? No urinary tract infection… TY
  • Once your new dog arrives, how would you determine when you can leave her and Bean loose together when you are not home?
  • I’m at the point in muzzle training where Freyja is wearing it and I’m building duration by using movement (a “wait” and then recall cue). At this point I’m not sure what is better for making the muzzle seem “normal”, wearing it longer and longer around the house, or taking the training outside and using it around exciting things? So far I have stopped each session before any pawing happens.
  • Our dog has suddenly started resource guarding against other dogs; sticks, toys, food etc. This only happens when he is really over aroused. We are working on it using Jean Donaldsons suggestions in Mine + Fight. But I am interested in why it started? Around that time he was snapped at by another dog for going near her ball, can dogs learn these behaviours after being on the receiving end of them?
  • My question is how to handle my dog when he shuts down in agility class due to fear. Fear is either from flies or bangs that surprise him and sound like fireworks. He has different levels of shutdown. 1. Stress, but will intermittently take treats, 2 won’t take any treats, 3. tries to go back to the car.
  • What would you suggest for an English setter, who is great in the house and in the backyard, but loses his brain walking on a longline with birds present.. He “sets” beautifully, then rushes to the bird and can’t be redirected. He can do Touch at times, unless the bird is close
  • I also talked about:
    • Plans for introducing Bean and the new dog

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Dog to Calm Down? (and more questions)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Could you demonstrate the thing with Bean and the treat?
  • do you believe in dogs having a hierarchy?
  • Hi Grisha! Ref. your video ‘I change my mind about crate‘ – When using it with a puppy for potty training, would you say that you would never use a crate that is only big enough for the dog to turn around or only use this if the dog is going to be inside the crate for no longer then 2 hours?
  • Hello G! Two questions: 1)Ref. Guarding/Territorial in general, is it true that bitch vs bitch would b more territorial than male vs male / female ‘coz they’re natural function i.e. protect their pups 2) Is it true that if two bitches start ‘arguing’, there’s more chances for them to get into a proper fight then two male dogs due to the same reasons as question 1? Thanks x
  • Pups who haven’t had vaccinations and vets that say they can’t go on the ground….I was always told that they should be carried around and introduced to ppl whilst in their arms to help with socialisation. [Talk about that in the context of the arms as a safe space, which was discussed in the small dogs video]
  • To what extent should dogs work things out on their own and when should the humans step in?
  • Could you talk a little about over-arousal and how we can help our dog (jrt x 1.5yr) be calmer in situations he finds exciting. We’ve done a lot of mat work, protocol for relaxation and LAT which has helped considerably at home but he is still acts crazy and unable to cope (with things he would usually be fine with) when over-excited. eg. sitting in cafe or friends house.
  • “Goals” for BAT setups.
    For BAT setups, is it appropriate to have a fairly specific ‘goal’ in mind? Or is it simply best to let things unfold as they may, be observant, and prompt/react as appropriate to keep stress low?
    If you do sometimes have ‘goals’, what are some examples?
  • I also talked about:
    • Using an intermediate bridge to work on relaxation (video example was brushing Bean)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Is Taking Treats Hard a Sign of Stress? (and more questions)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Last time you talked a bit about gauging a dog’s stress level by whether or not they would take treats. I feel like my dog will always take treats, no matter what. I feel that her stress indicator around food is that she starts to take treats faster and harder. Could I be misinterpreting this? Or is taking treats not as reliable an indicator in dogs who have shown high arousal around food?
  • My dog has become really sensitive to jingling collars because my of my neighbors dog. She has resorted to fence fighting (although she cannot see the other dog because we have a 6 foot tall vinyl fence and the other dog does not fight back). What is the best way to handle desensitizing the sound of the jingling collar and prevent her from fence fighting? Would you use real collars or sound?
  • It is great to hear your answers to all of the questions. Would you say that it is best to hold small dogs with their feet down / heads up?
  • I’m wondering on the thought of one dog correcting another, if one dog lunges and growls, is it okay for the dog it’s growling at to growl back? That just happened to us. I’m halfway paranoid that incidents like that would be the “last straw” and turn Louis dog-reactive. Although, I wanted to growl, too, but that makes people stare.
  • I’ve gotten to a point my cat will take a kibble from my hand so I can start doing clicker training with her. but oh my I’m going to get a tooth through my thumb. It came to mind to try offering the kibble with tweezers to save my finger
  • How can we teach my dog to stop resource guarding me? In the course of attempting to address it traditionally (corrections) we actually increased his reactivity in general. Now that we’re doing BAT things are already rapidly improving but I’d love to address the resource guarding if possible.
  • My dog does this thing when no one is in except for me. She stalks me in a room and won’t rest. I feed her, take her out, talk to her etc but she won’t rest. She walks around the room staring and me and submitting if I look at her. I suspect she’s trying to manipulate me and take control but I sense she’s trying to tell me something. It’s weird. Maybe I’m over thinking it. Only started a month or so ago and she seems well otherwise
  • I also talked about:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Can I Get My Dog Used to Having Testicles Handled? (and more questions)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Following up on Scent detection question.. What do you think of the all clear behavior? (IE: Dog does search. If he finds scent offers sitting facing the scent. IF no scent found in the space Dog offers go to handler and lay facing his feet )
    I saw Ken Ramirez talk about this and I love it! Dog always has a way to have success, less false positives trying to get a reward. Thoughts?
  • Tracking: does anyone who uses the BAT leash skills to teach less pulling on leash do tracking? Generally when I see people and their dogs tracking there looks like a lot of pulling on the leash to go forward following the track fast. Does tracking style (pulling, running) affect bat leash walking style or does bat leash walking style (gentle, easy going) affect tracking style?
  • Thank you for this opportunity to ask questions. It is a great learning experience. I would like to see more of the BAT session from Sweden. Also, at what point in BAT set-ups could you introduce 2 dogs where one dog is wearing a muzzle, and still feel that is is fair to the dog wearing the muzzle? (That the dog with the muzzle would not be under social pressure if s/he wanted to disengage?)
  • I know when you were first doing on-leash walks with Bean on the long line you were able to have Peanut off-leash, but is it possible to use the same kinds of leash handling skills with two dogs on leash? Do you have any recommendations for walks with two dogs and one person when they just can’t be off leash (like in the city)?
  • Warning, question about dog testicles ahead! Since Bean is still intact, have you done any cooperative care work with him for having his testicles examined? I recently talked to someone who lamented that her dog was fine with having her (the owner) handle them but would not let the vet or anyone else do an exam. How do you generalize this? It seems like an awkward thing to ask your friends to do.
  • When I asked my earlier question, ( r.e. playtime for 2 dogs,) I was curious what your thoughts would be if the dogs were off-leash, with 1 dog wearing a muzzle?
    Is this something that you might do, after multiple BAT sessions?
  • I also talked about:
    • Body language in a video of Bean meeting a new dog
    • Some things I noticed at the Alaska Wildlife Rehab Center near Girdwood (south of Anchorage)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

“I Changed My Mind” Video Series Episodes

Life is full of learning and growing, and sometimes relearning things you thought you knew. We should all reserve the right to change our minds.

I have started a YouTube series about some of the opinions and ideas that I have changed over time. The videos are shown below.  Please click here to visit my YouTube channel or click here to subscribe directly.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]Want to get more professional dog training support? I have a lot of videos in my online school, a Facebook group, and a lot more for Student and Pro members of the Animal Building Blocks Academy.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]Thanks for being an ABBA member! Don’t forget that there are a lot more members-only dog training videos in your library. If you have any training questions, post them for the live video Office Hours or in the ABBA Facebook group.[/s2If]

Are My Floors Too Slippery For My Dog?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • My dog has been showing unusual signs of fear (like fearful of a black string on the floor). I think she might be going through another fear period. Should I help her see it is not scary and if so how should I do it?
  • Football. Is red card positive or negative punishment? you add card, but the actual consequence is to leave the game. And yellow card.. you stay in the game but have been warned (punished as it may have undesired consequence later). does it work like some sort of conditioned punisher, like “no!” in a dog world?
  • Here’s a question, is there ever a time we can work on having the decoy dog walk towards the student dog? The dog is now better if the dog is not paying attention or walking away but walking past is still challenging. Can you lead the dog towards the other dog (at a big distance)?
  • I’m in the process of hiring a new trainer to help me with my BAT setup experience. They are offering a “BAT class” with another reactive dog which has also been doing BAT work for several months. I have full faith in the trainer (she mentors under Katie Grillaert – who is one of the best I know), but still a bit concerned. What questions can I ask them to help me overcome my own trepidation?
  • I’ve heard that sliding around on slippery floors is not good for the development of joints in growing puppies, is this true? I have a set of hardwood stairs that are very smooth and slippery and I worry about my hypothetical future puppy. Will I need to carry him up and down the stairs for his safety? (P.S I’m really enjoying this place, thanks so much for all your hard work 🙂
  • I’ve been using the Premack Principle to improve Lucy’s response
    to “Here” with distractions. She loves to chase squirrels so we “sit/stay” and “check it out” at trees. Now I’ve added “here!” before “check it out”.
    Running into some difficulties with her deciding to check it out by herself.. abruptly !!!! She is pretty good with loose leash. Are the squirrels just too exciting to train with ?
  • I also talked about:
    • New series on my YouTube Channel: “I’ve Changed My Mind”
    • Went over a BAT set-up video (Vizsla & Kromfohrlander)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Monique Masoe (Scent Detection, Crossover Trainer) Recording

How Do I Teach a Dog To Stop Humping (Mounting) During Play?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • What do you do if your dog will not move when he/she sees a trigger fairly close? I was walking my dog in an empty park and suddenly a few kids showed up behind us I tried to move her away but when they got closer she froze and would not move. I put treats to her mouth and she maybe took a step. I just kept feeding treats and kept trying to get her to move. Not sure what to do in that situation.
  • I’ve read a lot about the importance of early handling, pretty much from the moment puppies are born. All the videos I’ve watched of 2-3 week old puppies being handled have shown the people just reaching in and picking them up (gently) and handling them. I assume at this age it is too early for the “5-second” rule. So my question is at what point does the “5-second” rule become important?
  • Hi Grisha! Where can I post videos of my BAT setups for feedback? I did a session for my PSA but the wind picked up and audio is terrible, but I’d like to see what you think of the setup. And Bean looks like he has a tissue (not that I’m a tattle tail)
  • This may be too big of a topic for your office hours, but I’m VERY intrigued with the article that Leonard Buzz Cecil posted on your ABBA Facebook site re: the work that Dr. Karin Klaver is doing on the theory of ‘reconsolidation’ of fear events and how to use that knowledge in BAT training… maybe… someday??? 🙂
  • tongue flicks: always a stress signal, or can they be an appeasement or contentment signal sometimes too?
  • You were speaking about managed puppy playtime last week. What if there are loose puppies and the puppies still on leash start barking? What would be the best way for the owners to mange the puppies who become over-aroused in the indoor play area as you described it? Thanks!
  • I have one puppy in my puppy class who’s method of playing is humping. How do I get him to change his method of play and keep it a happy experience for him? I usually redirect him out of the group for a moment and then let him go back in. What would you do?
  • Can you talk about the second dog you are adopting? Thanks!
  • I also talked about:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Train My Dog for Separation Anxiety? (and more)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

If that video doesn’t play, please use This Link, which you are welcome to share on social media because this week of office hours is public.

Note: This wasn’t done the usual way so there is no link at the end for the Video History. Click here to add this video to your Video History. [/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Do dogs know the differences in time, ie. 30 minutes vs. 1 hour, 2 hours etc. when left alone in the house? Do you have any other useful tips on leaving dogs alone.
  • Hi my malamute has really bad separation anxiety how am I going to be able to leave him
  • My dog is attacking specific friends of my Children. She seems to snap at them and sometimes bites them. She is a rescue puppy From spain. How can I handle This so that those kids can come relaxed in my house?
  • (comment based on the dog park question from last week)
    It’s great for any animal to interact with same species, but the dog park is not always the only option
  • Grisha what do you think is more important on a walk if I have limited time; letting the dog sniff and explore or getting exercise in?
  • (in response to description of managed puppy play from last week)
    Having trouble for some reason visualizing the puppy/intros in a “class” situation. Do you have another explanation of this somewhere? I think I’m understanding that the puppies are initiating the communication, yes?
  • I am working with a number of clients who have reactive small breed dogs – chi mixes and poms. Have your experiences with Bean given you any special insight or recommendations for doing BAT with small dogs? Thanks.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Should a Dog Park be Set Up for Good Play? (and more)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

If that video doesn’t play, please use This Link, which you are welcome to share on social media because this week of office hours is public. [/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • My dog is generally disinterested in small puppies. If a puppy is off leash in the park and one wants to meet my dog, I will kneel down to be next to him and gauge his interest / protect him from the jumping. The puppies nearly always jump up and lick me right in the face. Can you please speak about this? Would this be the puppies attempt to obtain information from me at eye level?
  • My australian shepherd who has been in car rides since he was a puppy and hasn’t had any issues (never nauseous, no excessive drooling) other than some excited whining during the first part of the ride has just started to bark at a few different things outside of the car (a woman near the window he was looking out of at a grocery store, a bicyclist + an open convertible w/ people). Best way to manage?
  • A friend has an adopted dog who came from his first home with a fabric toy 6 years old. The dog still plays with this same
    exact toy every single day, even thought it is now just a piece of fabric. They think it provides a kind of security for the dog. Have you seen this before, i.e., a dog who uses one specific “toy”, and will not accept a newer version of the same item throughout his life?
  • I attended your Team Work seminar in NYC.
    You have spoken about the human’s tendency to put his/her hand out when meeting a dog. Did I understand you correctly that a dog can smell a person as well from 2-3 feet away in an environment–then if the person reaches his/her hand toward the dog, which the dog might find aversive and/or confusing?
  • There’s a dog park being created close to where I live, and they’re looking for input on how to help make it a safe environment. Any (realistic) suggestions on behaviors that should be prohibited or monitored?
  • How do I manage the leash skills on a walk where I need to just go a certain direction or walk past distractions? In BAT we don’t lead the dog but what about those situations?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Stop My Dog Barking When I Come Home?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

This video was a special broadcast on YouTube because I was traveling, so it is also available at This Link, which you are welcome to share on social media. [/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • My dog is a mini Aussie about 1 1/2 years old. She is dog and human reactive. I have been searching for a positive based training method and stumbled upon BAT and am very excited. We haven’t yet been able to do a BAT setup. My question is this, how do I get my dog to stop barking at me and my family when we come home. I know she is barking out of excitement.
  • When on a walk my dog will look at me and whimper. I’m not sure what she is trying to tell me. I have been working with letting her choose where to go. Do you think she is looking for direction or maybe she doesn’t like the environment? How do I help her love the outdoors? (She is 1 1/2 year old mini Aussie)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Do Dogs Know Time is Passing? (and more)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Do dogs know how much time is passing (ie when alone in house 1/2 hour vs 1-2 hours)
  • I like this! its fun. its like when my dad watches sports and they do highlight reels and play by plays except in this situation it actually benefits me because I understand. I would like more of this. Maybe students could send in videos of their dogs if they are interested in interpretations and doing this (what you are currently doing with your video) could be helpful
  • In the video that you showed with Zita, Bean and the other small dogs (last week), if one of these dogs were barking excitedly the entire time, would you consider that part of his/her play style, or would you consider the dog to be over threshold?
  • My dog is generally fearful, but gets snarly & lunges at dogs. BAT work is helping. I was wondering, however. Since he is also generally fearful around new people, would it be advantageous to have him meet the helper dog’s ‘handler’ in a separate session before working with a new helper dog + handler?
  • We have known our neighbour since we both moved in (27-30 years) and have a great relationship. Her dog is also fearful reactive to dogs.We got new fences a few years ago that dont show through (each panel slides and snaps together so you cant see through). This cut down on the fence fighting although there is one spot where there is a bit of a peep under the fence where my dog will go to and freeze and then flip out.It seems to be he can hear and or smell that our neighbour dog is out side. Help! (from the ABBA Facebook group)
  • I also talked about:
    • Bean with cows and horses (video with cow)
    • Bean being a little snarky with a German Shepherd puppy (video)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • The prize I was trying to locate for you guys was the SqueakNSnap bear, which lets you take a photo using a squeaky toy plugged into your phone. These are the prizes for the May Monthly Challenge.
  • My YouTube video of Mark and Move with Bean and the Cows
  • Petzi Treat Cam, and the Pet CubePawbo does look like a better option for video because it records and sends to dropbox and may have sound on the video. Petzi does not do video and Pet Cube does not have sound on the videos, but both have sound in live streaming. NOTE – I don’t recommend using the laser feature with dogs on any of the devices. It can create obsessive-compulsive (OCD) light-chasing behavior that’s very hard to get rid of. If it’s just a short-term thing you might also just try setting up a Skype account for your dog and use your computer.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Stop Resource Guarding Between Dogs?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Hi Grisha, Can you help me select the best harness for my 9 lb poodle – she’s very reactive to other dogs and squirrels!. I have been training with the sense-ation, front attach harness.
    I have read, in your 2.0 book, that the perfect fit and balance are good. I don’t think I am comfortable using the front and back attachments. Do you have a video that may help me use this type of harness.
  • I am not sure how to teach my dog not to guard things from other dogs. (not an issue with people) She guards her food, water, bones, toys (esp. squeaky). I don’t bring her to my friend’s apartment anymore because she guards things in their house from their dog. I manage the situation by keeping her separate from other dogs whenever these things are around, but I’m dying to work on it with her.
  • I also talked about:
    • Body language with a toy (chase/play and resource guarding between dogs) – play by play [I apologize for the funky sound on the second clip]
    • BATting myself for grief

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Where Do Our Dogs Go? Reflections on Peanut’s Life and Loss

grisha-peanut
13.5 years is a lot of shared life experience. He still makes me smile.

For the last several years, I have been pre-grieving Peanut’s death. I have been afraid I would completely fall apart and lose my will to live.

Now that the worst has actually happened, I got lucky, because his death was not complicated by other emotions. I am just really sad and that’s okay. We supported each other throughout his life and he was right there in my lap when he chose to go.

It turns out that his death was not as terrible as I thought it would be.  I thought I would want to jump off a bridge when he died. I literally had my family on suicide watch.

But now that it’s finally happened, I’ve noticed that it’s different; the worry for him and for myself is gone, leaving me with a chance to savor his life, a huge appreciation for the time we had together, and gratitude for the support of my friends and family.

Sadness is much easier to handle than worry, especially when you don’t fight the pain, but just let it happen. This post isn’t about telling you how to grieve, but just sharing how I am grieving, to share this possibility that we don’t have to be crushed by loss to honor those who have passed. We all mourn differently, there are no ‘shoulds’ here.

Dog Dalmatian running outdoors in beautiful green against the blue sky with clouds and a rainbow
Dogs run free at the rainbow bridge.

Many people talk about the rainbow bridge as the place where are dogs are waiting for us when we die.

It’s human to have a deep need to know where are loved ones are now, and what they are doing. Having spent years caring for him, needing to know where he is at all times is a hard habit to let go. It’s our job to keep track of them.

With Peanut’s passing, I have found some solace in thinking of him running around happy with Spoon, who passed away last year, and Pirate, who passed away this month. But I need to process Peanut’s life and death in a way that fits in with my own worldview. It turns out that what I came up with isn’t inconsistent with the rainbow bridge, either, so hopefully it works for you.

This ‘song of life’ analogy has has helped me come to better terms with Peanut’s death. It’s loosely based on the Buddhist concept of clinging, as attachment as the root of suffering: “Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional.” If you have lost a dog (or cat or other family member) I hope that this post helps you find a way to savor the experience of loss, to appreciate this time instead of suffering through it.

(And maybe this is already something already woven into some religion or philosophy. I don’t want to waste this important time researching whether this analogy is new. I just know it didn’t occur to me before and I want to share it because it helped me.)

If you’ve ever laid down tracks for a song or a video this will make sense. If not, I hope it still works for you, but feel free to comment with your own version, like maybe weaving together a tapestry or something else.

life-as-movie
I’m visualizing it like this video editor, except a LOT more clips (one for each living being) and more overlapping.

I’m thinking of the sum of all life as a jazz song or a movie, where each individual being is like one track laid down for a recording (like a guitar riff or a little movie clip). The length of those clips is the amount of time they are present here for the rest of us to see. Feel free to look through your own worldview to think about whether some higher power is creating the song or it’s just what happens when so much life comes together.

Trees have very long lifespans, so they’d have very long tracks. Humans have shorter tracks and dogs and other small animals even shorter. When they happen to be in the same space and time we ‘know’ each other but we are all still part of this same multi-dimensional song, starting from the beginning of life and ending when it is all over, if ever.

Grisha Stewart using her BAT leash Skills with Peanut
Every day with Peanut was a gift.

If I zoom in on my own track and see things just from my own perspective, it feels like a sudden shift, a catastrophe to lose him. If I zoom out to see the whole song, I see the beauty that we shared and how that fits in with everything else. I see how he was fading toward his end. All solos start and stop. If they went on forever they wouldn’t be appreciated in the same way.

So Peanut may or may not make another appearance in the song of life. Maybe there is reincarnation, or heaven, or his energy and matter have just been converted into other form.

To me that doesn’t matter so much as concentrating on what I do know. We had a fantastic time together, where our harmony added to the song of life. That will never go away. His existence has influenced the whole direction of my life and work. He was a frequency changer, a catalyst to shift my perception of the world.

His life happened exactly as it happened. At this point, the song has moved on and I have come to terms with the idea that he would no longer fit into it. So rather than clinging to him and wishing he were here now, I celebrate the fact that he *was* here. It feels oddly right that he is no longer here, which isn’t to say that I would have wanted it that way, not at all. But I’m at peace with his death.

peanut-at-property-246x300
Peanut spent a lot of time running free in nature.

That doesn’t mean I don’t cry or that I just move on with life like he was never here. I have cleared my schedule to savor my sorrow and grieve for the loss of his physical presence in my life. I couldn’t keep food down the day that he passed away. I have a knot in my chest sometimes. I cry when I feel like it and I enjoy every moment of this sad time while it’s happening because that is the way that he is here now, through that experience of transition away from a physical Peanut. [If you have another experience, that’s totally fine. We all grieve differently. I just want to share how I feel since it was unexpected to me.]

I feel intense joy and satisfaction when I look at the quality of our time together. I made mistakes with him, but I did my best to fix them, to strengthen our relationship and improve his quality of life whenever I could. From his influence on me and many others, Peanut is still part of the song as a whole, but his own track is over; from my own perspective in time, his tangible presence is gone. But his ‘solo’ is still impacting the song as it moves forward: there are so many ripples from his existence, like how I perceive my world, how I may now be better at honoring my own emotions, how I think of death, how I read dogs, how I love, how other dogs now have better lives because of him, and so much more.

In the end, I don’t need to scream at the universe, “WHY?!” Instead, I whisper, “thank you.”

(Look below the video for tips).

“Love Never Goes” Lyrics (Peanut YouTube version)

I am bound to you
You’re in my heart to stay
One look at you and I knew
I’d love you every single day

We’re on solid ground
You’re in my heart to stay
Even when I’m not around
I love you every single day

* Love doesn’t leave
* (It) Doesn’t run out
* Love never goes away

* Love doesn’t need
* No fence around (it)
* Love never goes away

You’ve got other loves
They’re in your heart to stay
I don’t have to be above
Just love me every single day

Hope you know by now
You’re in my heart to stay
Even when I have to go
I’ll love you every single day

* Love doesn’t leave
* (It) Doesn’t run out
* Love never goes away

* Love doesn’t need
* No fence around (it)
* Love never goes away

* Love doesn’t leave
* (It) Doesn’t run out
* Love never goes away


Here are some things that I did that helped with my grief process and/or made grieving less complicated:

  • Quality time – As he aged, I arranged my schedule to spend less time traveling and be home more with him. I arranged for quality time alone or with Bean when possible, although I also maintained my own life and non-dog hobbies. For many devoted dog lovers, their life is all about dogs. If you have more than one dog, that could be fine, but if your dog passes away and you have no other dog, then you may find you have no sense of self and don’t know what to do with your time. So let yourself have a life. You deserve it.
  • Filming – videos of us loving on each other and of him just walking through the forest give me the most solace. It gives me a way to reconnect as needed.
  • Empowerment – choices I made for him were always in his best interest, within the constraints of life among humans. So things like positive reinforcement, long leashes and harnesses, carpets on the floor, training for him to actively cooperate in blood draws and vet procedures, predictability, ability to control his own proximity and interaction with stressors, and only adding in pain or discomfort when it was medically necessary.
  • Being his advocate and fighting to be present at the vet whenever I knew me being there would help him. That helped prevent regrets. Many veterinarians insist on restraining your dog themselves or won’t allow you to be in the room for IV fluids, but may agree if you sign a waiver or have muzzle trained your dog with positive reinforcement (even if they have no history of biting, muzzling means there’s no possibility of the vet getting sued so they will allow it).
  • We kept his body at home for two days before cremation, like a wake. That gave all of us (including Bean and Dharma) time to really process that he was gone. I was able to go to his body and say goodbye many times. We curled him up into a dog bed (head tilted up to avoid leakage) before driving him home, so that he was in a good position when rigor mortis set in. It was relatively cool on our sun porch so we kept him there. If it’s warmer where you are, get dry ice to put into the bed, under and around your dog (or cat or whatever). We had a hard time finding dry ice though. My friend in California had her dog’s body for 5 days before cremation, so it’s not just possible in Alaska.
  • Hearing other people’s memories of him and going through videos, photos, etc. really helped. Specific memories of Peanut in real life or in videos help more than general statements like “I’m sorry for your loss” or “Dog’s lives are too short,” so I asked for people to share memories when I announced his passing. Every comment helped me, but it was so helpful when they did share a memory. If many people don’t know your dog, make and share a short video of your dog’s life so that people can share what they see in that. The process of making the video was also helpful to me, as well as rewatching it many times.
  • Stopping the clock. This is what I’m doing right now. I have lost a family member and need this time to sit with the grief. I don’t need to go to work right now. I allow myself to have whatever emotions that come through, and I don’t berate myself for having strong feelings or try to push them away. I don’t force anything, neither trying to be sad nor trying to be happy.If I want to go on a hike or work or whatever, that’s my choice, but I have paused as many time commitments as I can right now. Question anything that involves the word ‘should’ – that’s usually a sign that it’s not helpful for you in your grief, but rather just something that is motivated by avoidance of punishment.If you work for yourself, take the time off. Put on an autoresponder. If you work for someone else, use your sick leave or vacation time, and if that doesn’t exist, see about a leave of absence.
  • More tips in my main grief article.

Here’s my announcement of Peanut’s passing on Facebook:

Should I Stand Up for My Dog? And How?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Due to inexperience with loose-leash walking and fearful dogs, I’ve conditioned Sunrise to be a reluctant on-leash uphill walker (long story, I had some questions about this about a year ago but finally identified the issue – no medical issues and is fine off-leash). Any suggestions on counter-conditioning her distaste for uphills? It’s unfortunately impossible to avoid them here 🙂
  • Our town has a dense population of urban wildlife, particularly deer, who live in wooded spots all over town in close proximity to our homes.
    Deer can excite my dog as much as any dog. In the backyard, I’ve been working to desensitize her off-leash when
    the deer surprise us. I would love to hear your thoughts on this for on and off leash training. Thank you.
  • I have a foster dog who’s life goal is to eat anything that he can find, regardless of if it is edible or not. He was born with PRAA (had surgery in november) and just has a sensitive tummy so it is really important that I do not let him eat things. Especially the kitty poop that is hidden around my apartment complex.Last night I tried bringing him out on his muzzle in the hopes that it would prevent him from eating things. It worked great to stop him from eating the mushrooms that were growing, but when he found the poop all he did was smash his muzzle into it to eat it.Obviously this is disgusting. The only thing I can think to do would be to find another muzzle with a solid, flat front part. What do you guys think? I’m ready to pull my hair out here!
  • This same dog is obsessed with licking things inside the house as well. If I let him, he will lick my carpet (which is full of dog hair and my very long hair, which then gets caught up in his poop) all day long. I assume he is licking because of a tickle in his throat due to PRAA.If he is out of his crate, I spend the entire time watching him out of the corner of my eye so I can tell him to leave the floor alone. I allow him to lick inside his crate.

    He has gotten better about not licking the floor in the past few months, but it is only because I spend every waking moment watching him and telling him to leave it. If I can’t watch him I put him inside his crate. That includes just going to the restroom because he takes that opportunity to vigorously lick the floor under the chair I was sitting in. It gets old really quickly. What else do you guys think I can do about this?

  • I also talked about:
    • Advocacy for our dogs
    • Peanut’s passing and what I am glad I did for him at the vet’s office

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • Facebook post about Peanut’s passing
  • You’re Not Crazy, You’re Mourning – blog post on the grief process (written a while ago, still needs to be updated for Peanut)
  • BAT 2.0 book has a whole chapter on Peanut if you don’t know who he is.
  • I will ask questions about scent training on the next Animal World Superstars: Monique Masoe June 14

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Terry Ryan (Dog Training, Instruction) Recording

What Can I Do If My Neighbor’s Dog is Off Leash?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • When/why is it effective to lead in a walk?
  • In Basic Position in Bat with a small dog would it be okay to relax your shoulders and breathe, but still keep your hands up to avoid the leash going under the dog (and potentially getting tangled)?
  • BAT gives dogs a great opportunity to have canine friends. Can you please speak about why you think this is so important?
  • What are your suggestions for someone who is going to a community (for a few weeks) where there are off- leash dogs, and one next door that has little to no supervision ) runs through the yard and over the deck (#*!) ? My solution has been avoid and have my dog on-leash, and use BAT 2.0 at home to try to decrease reactivity to other dogs. My dog is improving but this situation is a concern!
  • Follow up on question from last Q+A. The question was about having 2 dogs meet, in the hopes of avoiding a fight.
    When you described having your dog meet a second dog for a microsecond on leash, what you be your advice for preparing the dog you are handing to move in an urban space? I know you call it Mark and Move, but a microsecond is a very short time frame.
  • Could You please suggest a method to teach a dog not to eat any food from the ground or from the human without a presence of his owner? My client’s dog is at risk of being poisoned by his neighbor when being left in the garden so we are looking for ways to prevent this. The ones I’ve found are unfortunately aversive ones, and I am not convinced of using them. Greetings from Poland.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Teamwork Empowerment Seminar Recording (2.25 hours)

Online seminar recorded April 20, 2016 – Presented by: Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA. Looking for a great way to jumpstart your dog training and have a stronger relationship with your dog? Or maybe you’re a professional trainer looking for better ways to train or explain?

Professional dog trainer and author Grisha Stewart has a unique perspective on life with dogs. Her training style focuses on using clear communication and empowerment to teach behavior that improves the quality of life for everyone in the family, including the dog(s).


Continue reading Teamwork Empowerment Seminar Recording (2.25 hours)

How Do I Avoid Fighting During On Leash Dog Greetings?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • I am hesitant to let my dog greet other dogs (both on leash) because I anticipating a wagging tail quickly followed with a snarl. I am doing the BAT 2.0 techniques with the leash skills and the farthest I am letting her go with it is to look at dog, followed by an appropriate behaviour and then moving away. I don’t know how to interpret whether or not to go closer and often she wants to.
  • You said that you train a “A dog is coming,” cue differently from ” another cue that could mean for example “A person is coming”, or a cue that means, ‘Something in the environment is going to change.’ Can you please explain how you have trained these to Peanut or Bean?
  • Thank you for sharing about Peanut’s lymphoma on FB. Would you be comfortable explaining what his symptoms were and how you determined how you would treat it / what course to follow for treatment?
  • When on walks if Astra sees/hears something she’s not sure about she’ll look back at me. What should I be doing to best reassure her/show her it isnt anything to worry about? Camling signals, ‘it’s okay’ cue, etc?
  • Could you explain the steps you would use to teach the dog to ask permission before they jump up on the bed, cough etc?
  • You spoke about not patting a dog’ and saying, “It’s okay,” when a dog is in situation where he/she is not ‘feeling okay’?
    What would be a good team approach to ‘avoid’ this at the DVM both for the DVM and the vet. nurse?
    What would be a good team approach to ‘avoid’ when the veterinarian or receptionist pats your dog on the head?
  • I also talked about:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Revive Your Yes Life #CelebrateTheGood

Does your Yes life need a tune-up?

I wrote a Facebook post last night. It was very satisfying, at first, because I got to say NO, confrontational dog training isn’t right. Stop It.

But that’s really yes-iStock_000009246841_Largeironic, right? That I am trying to use something negative to fix the problem of being too negative? I can do better than that. If I really want change, there’s a better way to teach, which I use all the time with dogs.

My goal with dogs is to maximize chances for positive reinforcement in their lives, in all forms. I want to be able to say YES a lot to dogs and that applies to people too.
yes-fist-iStock_000021168856_LargeSo what do I want to happen? What do I want to see? I do try to use positive phrasing when talking to people, but sometimes on social media, or with my husband, my inner 2-year-old comes out. No No NO.

So I’m working on my Yes life. Today I started my own challenge, and I hope you’ll join me. For the next two weeks (and maybe more) I am going to focus on phrasing all social media posts and comments in a positive way, and add the hashtag of #CelebrateTheGood to remind myself. If I look back and see that I could have done better, or missed an opportunity to be positive, I will revise or repost, and add the hashtag of #CelebrateTheGood to those, too.

yes-iStock_000067452315_LargeExamples of positive posts and comments:

  • Why you train dogs the way that you do (if you catch yourself pointing out negative things about the other side, just replace those with information on what TO do and why it’s awesome).
  • Something great that happened to you.
  • What you agree with about XYZ (especially good for comments)

I picked social media because in a way, it’s easier than real life. You can take your time crafting your words. You can revise when you see that it could have been better. That’s a  great learning opportunity.

Flags that indicate your post may have room for improvement:

  • Words like no, not, never, wrong,…
  • Judgements like hate, can’t stand,…
  • Name calling or insulting someone’s character (idiot, uneducated, mean, bitch, jerk, troll, you get the gist)
  • Reading through it gives you a bad feeling

Here’s my original post from yesterday:

“You’re the Dog Whisperer!” Have you ever gagged a little vomit into your mouth? That’s what I feel when someone calls…

Posted by Grisha Stewart-person on Thursday, April 14, 2016

So let’s try that again, with positive phrasing. First, I would leave off the blog post share because it’s all about negative phrasing, “things dog trainers hate.”

Here's a new post about the same topic as yesterday but with positive phrasing. See the bottom of this post for why I…

Posted by Grisha Stewart on Friday, April 15, 2016

So there we go. Let’s positivize the internet and fix our Yes lives. Can you join with me and take the #CelebrateTheGood Challenge for the next two weeks?

Is It Ok If My Dog Pulls During a Panic Attack?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Hello Grisha! I have a 1.5 y/o aus. shepherd that has some sound sensitivity issues. I plan on doing counter conditioning–but, my question is: What is the best way to handle a larger dog that is mid-walk and is triggered by a sound (i.e. basketball bouncing)? I’m afraid bolting and dragging me all the way home is reinforcing because he gets home and feels “safe” but don’t know what else to do.
  • I feel like I am constantly taking things out of my puppy’s mouth (5 month lab).  What can I do to get him to stop chewing everything!
  • My puppy rules the house already. He brings me the food bowl to say it’s time to feed him, and I do. He sleeps in my bed. Is that okay?
  • My dog is becoming a cranky old man. He’s 8 and when I pet him sometimes he groans or even growls at me. One time he even showed his teeth. Is there anything I can do about that? Or is it normal?
  • I have a dog that’s really playful.  A lot of other dogs seem to growl and snap at her but she’s just trying to play. Should I do anything about it or just let them work it out?
  • I also talked about
    • Chemo in dogs
    • New body handling training for Peanut
    • Bucket list for your dog

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How To Train Your Dog the Meaning of “It’s Okay”

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • I’m interested in what kind if positive training you can do with horses. I take my younger siblings horse riding and we’ve changed riding school due to the way the horses were treated (and I didnt think the horses there liked to riden). Is it possible to use only positive reenforement with horses? Have you done any work with horses?
  • I’ve been very protected of what other dogs Astra meets and as of yet, she’s never really said hello to any dogs on our walks, mostly because I’m terrified I’ll misread the other dog. I’ve taken her to 22 puppy classes which she’s progressed through very well. She has an older adult dog friend who she gets on well with and we’re doing on going classes (usually two a week). Is this enough?
  • Follow-up: If surprised or too close, Astra will get a barky and growl at dogs. Her confidence is improving, but she’s still timid. My question is if I rarely allow her to say hi to dogs (close contact) on walks would this have a negative effect? You talk about dogs not always needing to have face to face greetings. If her main contact with dogs is at classes, will she get reactive on walks?
  • Can you please speak about the, “It’s Okay” cue?
  • Can we do BAT set ups indoors? If so, what might a few examples of that look like? (Are there ways, for example, to help a very exuberant 10 month old female German Shepherd to learn to better handle her longing to be with (and often overcome) our senior smaller miniature poodle? I know of some things we can do together outside for BAT setups, but could use some ideas for inside.)
  • You have described Peanut as having reactive tendencies before your BAT work. How were you able to use him in your KPA classes and have other handlers hold his leash for exercises?
  • The person who is showing me how to use the 15ft leash is having the dog make the decisions, and I just follow her with the leash and let it out as far as she wants.  This is fine when we have open space, but one, I live on a busy main street, and two, I am trying to have her not pull and when I put her back on a 5ft, she is at the end of the leash. Do you have any suggestions on having her not pull when I put her back on the short leash?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Video Reviews – BAT On Leash and Off-Leash Greetings

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • This was a special session where I shared video of two scenarios. One was a sequence of off leash greetings that I posted to the Facebook group. Links to the clips on Facebook: One, two, and three. (Must be logged into Facebook and a group member to see them)
  • ref. video 2 (B with other dogs). If you were able to repeat this situation, is there anything you would do differently to make Bean more confortable / not to growl? Is there a way to teach your dog in situ? For instance, would mark & move be useful? But then, isn’t the growl in this situation OK as those dogs are over him?
  • Ref. video 2 (Bean meets the dogs).This is the exact type of situation where Boston will growl at other dogs. We’ve done BAT which helped but also avoiding as much as we can these situations. The issue is that I don’t enjoy my walks anymore because I feel I’m constantly avoiding . So when/how do you know that it is OK to let them learn between themselves as you suggest on the video?
  • I also talked about:
    • Videos of a BAT set-up with coaching by Ellen Naumann, CBATI in Los Angeles
    • Videos of Off Leash greetings with a BAT dog

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Lori Stevens (Fitness, Stress,TTouch) Recording

How to Use a Long Line – City and Countryside

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • In follow up to Friday’s question about dog walkers walking multiple dogs, what are your thoughts about meeting the dogs’ needs when the multiple dogs being walked by the walker are off leash on an under-populated trail? Sunrise is terrified of these packs, your comments made me wonder if she’s picking up on something from them. Typically the dogs are from different households.
  • One last question –you spoke about ‘mimicry’ with dogs. As a puppy, would Bean be most likely to mimic, Peanut, another puppy, (i.e. dog,). or you, as the purveyor of good things, (i.e. scritches, massage, food, play, etc.)?
  • A friend of mine has 2 rescue dogs. When they rescued the second dog they started having issues with marking behavior. Both dogs are neutered males. Niether are crate trained and may have a bit of separation anxiety. Assuming there are no urinary tract health issues would you work on crate training and strict supervision first? Possibly bellybands, but what if they rip those off?
  • I also talked about:
    • BAT leash skills in New York City (videos)
    • Adapting the BAT leash skills to use with a 50 foot long line (videos)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Canine Fitness Seminar Registration – Auditor (WITHOUT DOG)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_028_fitness_with_dog)]Thank you for your interest in the Canine Fitness seminar with Lori Stevens. Please use the form at the bottom of this page to register for this seminar.

Please note that working dogs are the only dogs allowed at the seminar. Click here to register for a working spot. [/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_029_fitness_no_dog)]Thank you, [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]! You have registered to attend the Lori Stevens Canine Fitness seminar as an auditor (without a dog).[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_028_fitness_with_dog)]Thank you, [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]! You have already registered to attend the Lori Stevens Canine Fitness seminar WITH your dog. If you would like to change that, please contact Grisha.[/s2If]

The following information is for attendees of the seminar. Please visit the main seminar page for more information about the seminar itself.

Notes & Paperwork:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_029_fitness_no_dog)]

[/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_029_fitness_no_dog)]Please log in to view the notes.[/s2If]

[php]
$CCAP=”seminar_029_fitness_no_dog”;
$maxSize=50;
showRoster($CCAP,$maxSize);
if(IsRoom($CCAP, $maxSize))
{
[/php][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_029_fitness_no_dog)]

Please register with the form below:

[_s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you are already a member or have made a purchase at GrishaStewart.com before, please log in with the user info you created.[/_s2If][_s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]

Registration comes with one free month of Student membership in the Animal Building Blocks Academy (new members only), which means you have access to several videos weekly video question and answer sessions, and discounts on products in the store, like Grisha’s new BAT 2.0 book. It will stop automatically after one month. [s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”2″ ccaps=”seminar_029_fitness_no_dog” desc=”Lori Stevens Seminar Auditor $119″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ta=”0″ tp=”0″ tt=”D” ra=”119″ rp=”1″ rt=”M” rr=”0″ rrt=”” rra=”2″ accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][_s2If current_user_is(s2member_level2)]This seminar is available for our current Student Members for $114 (save $5 off the public price).[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”seminar_029_fitness_no_dog” desc=”Lori Stevens Seminar Auditor $114″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”114″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][_s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level3)]This seminar is available for our current Pro Members for $109 (save $10 off the public price).[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”seminar_029_fitness_no_dog” desc=”Lori Stevens Seminar Auditor $109″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”109″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]

[php]
}
else echo “There are no more auditor spots. Working spots (with dogs) may still be available.“;
[/php] Please visit the main Canine Fitness seminar page for more details.

When Can I Lead My Dog In BAT?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: 

  • Can you recommend any dog training curriculum software you like to organize training sequences for dog trying clients ? Thank you!
  • Great to meet you in NYC. Loved the Teamwork seminar! Great that Bean slept through. At the seminar, you said that humans tend to lead their dogs even when intentionally trying not to. How could one avoid leading their dog in a set-up, when your dog does not notice the decoy dog and you want to make sure your dog does?
  • When you showed the video of Bean on your bed in the hotel room waiting for the delivery, was Bean on the bed because you thought that he would be less likely to be scared of the delivery person if he was sitting on the bed, (i.e. at a higher level than on the floor?)
  • Ever since we took your class, we have practiced with a happy “Treat Party” / every single day in the park, with treats every single time. I notice from your video in Pennsylvania that Bean responds to your recall much more immediately at a longer distance. Should we try higher value treats?
  • When you showed Bean off leash, in the forest, you used a food reward that looked like ‘bacon’ on screen to lure him away from eating something in the forest. What was it?
  • What would your advice be for a person who wants to be a professional dog walker–should they train as a dog trainer or as a CBATI?
  • When on your trip, would you ever leave Bean alone in a hotel? Will you take him on your international trips?
  • What was/is the process for a dog to become a professional service-dog?  Does Bean need to be zipped into his carry bag under the seat in-front of you for take-off and landing? What is the brand of the HUGE portable crate that you used for Bean?
  • Bean is so cute in all of your videos. When you are at home in a relaxed environment and during the course of the day you want to reward Bean for being calm or not barking etc., and you want to reward him with food, would you use medium stakes food, rather that it be his favorite thing ever to eat?
    In the video with Peanut where he has a food puzzle that looks like a huge block, what was it?
  • What are your thoughts about dog coats and whether smaller dogs need them or not?
  • I have a colleague who wants to seek the help of a trainer both for behavior issues with his dog and also for non-compliance (toward the dog,) on the part of his family members, including his partner and children. He is procrastinating on seeking help because he heard that the longer the dog has been doing the behavior the longer / the more work it will be to train the dog new behaviors. Advice?
  • What is your advice for dog walkers who want to walk multiple dogs from different households, in a city, (not in a park,) at the same time in an urban area? Does it work?
  • Bean and Peanut look great together at home. What do you feed them from that glass bowl? I have not been able to find cheerios without sugar. Where do you purchase it from?
  • I also talked about:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Would You Like To Sell The Ahimsa Manual?

This post is for book resellers, including trainers who want to include the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual in their classes or breeders who want to give the book to their puppy owners. You can apply for an account by clicking here.

ISBN-10:

  • English: 1478176415
  • Spanish Edition: 1494459191

You must be a licensed business and provide an active reseller certification.

After submitting your information, CreateSpace will validate your qualifications for access to CreateSpace Direct’s wholesale pricing and notify you of your status within one business day.

Purchase Discount from List Price through CreateSpace Direct:
Libraries – 20%
Retail – 35%
Distribution – 45%

The Ahimsa Dog Training Manual is also distributed by Ingram (615-793-5000) and NACSCORP (800-622-7498).

Are Off Leash Walks Good for My Dog? Recall Training & More

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: [Not live because I’m traveling for the Teamwork seminar tour]

  • I just saw the interview with Helen Zulch and what hit home was the dog addict. Since we moved (he has had problems with stress) I focused on contact or unprompted check ins, but accidentally created a heeler. When it’s dark, windy or wet the “all done” is not very effective and he gets frustrated if he doesn’t get to heel and be rewarded. Should I let him choose on those days?
  • A friend allowed my puppy up on the couch while I wasn’t watching. Now she jumps up on it. What’s the best way to undo this?
  • Just a follow up on my couch jumping question, my puppy is mostly in her play pen so I have prevention in place. The couch jumping has happened when I have her out of the play pen for some training or a short break. I will probably do some sitting on the couch with her in a drop on a lead, but it’s when she’s on the couch, I’m not sure what’s the best way to get her off.
  • Apologies if I missed this in a video, but did Bean travel with you in the passenger part of the plan and no cargo? Just curious. Do you recommend not travelling with your dog in cargo?
  • Is hiking with you dog off leash rewarding for the dog? Are they’re any benifits? I’ve been on a couple of bushwalks with my puppy and she does a lot less sniffing, as she’s making sure she keeps up with me. I walk fairly slow.
  • In your recent ‘ Premack Principle for squirrel chasing’, you use the chasing as a reward [here and here in the Facebook group]. My question is how can you do a reverse of this using premack, if premack is possible in this scenario? So in teaching self control or steadiness exercises around other animals to NOT chase, can premack be applied? i.e might include dogs around livestock, gundogs not to chase game birds, cats on walks 🙂
  • Hi Grisha, I am currently working on, no excessive barking at the neighbors dog -which is in the back yard. Any tips that I can use to train her on quiet ( I am using “leave it” command). But wondered if I can teach quiet or no bark? –
    The other dog does not bark back which is great. I usually have to manage the situation by bringing her inside
  • I also talked about:
    • Demos of off leash training with Bean
    • Leave it for yucky things (fox scat)
    • Using water as a reinforcer

Related videos in the Member Library:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Train a Dog Not to Jump Up or Bark at the Door?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video: [Not live because I’m traveling for the Teamwork seminar tour]

  • In the past I have avoided training automatic sits as a part of greetings for young puppies (I just used a 4 feet on the floor protocol instead), because I was concerned that the automatic sit would take away the puppy’s choice to walk away or use their body language to communicate they were uncomfortable during those critical development times. Any thoughts?
  • I also talked about:
    • Trigger stacking and how to minimize stress for your dog during travel.
    • Teaching Bean to do a down-stay for someone coming to the door. I did live training of this for about 20 minutes in expectation of a real visitor. This session culminates in the delivery man arriving with my dinner at the hotel. We got a tiny little woof but he held the stay. Yay!

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • UltraCalm collar by Pet Acoustics (sold by the same company that sells the Pet Tutor, so you can use the grishastewart.com coupon at checkout to save 6.6%)
  • Next week is also recorded, and then I’ll be home again for live Office Hours. Here is my seminar schedule.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Dr. Helen Zulch (stress, life skills) Recording

Training Jumping Onto Suitcase as a Dog’s Portable Safety Zone

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • I am new to practicing BAT 2.0 with my min rescue poodle. (She is reactive to other dogs). It seems when she see’s another dog from afar (before threshold) she pulls towards the dog (her choice). Should I continue to use BAT 1.0 and reward (verbal or treat) when she looks at me and walk away? She’s ok with a few small dogs in the neighborhood but there are some that she wants to stalk.
  • I´m doing BAT sessions with a female mixed pitbull and the last time it seems to be more closer to plastic dog, but still have some bad episodes on the week with some unleashed dogs. It was the fourth BAT with her. I´m afraid about doing well the BAT because it took more time than I expected to be closer to the dog, but she was wery fine with another dog on weekend, even she growled without react
  • my Border some times is reactive with neighbors, some others not. Even when we are in the car, he is reactive with some persons. I think he didn´t like to be with me in the car. What mental exercises can you suggest?
  • I also talked about:
    • training Bean to jump up on my luggage as a Safe Zone (demo throughout the office hours)
    • Dr. Helen Zulch and stress, including negative side effects of glucocorticoids.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How do I use the BAT leash skills with a suitcase/stroller?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • We are formally converting our third bedroom (and old garage) into a full on mud/kennel room/office. How much consideration do you give the paint color in regards to what colors dogs can see? We do have one very anxious senior who is on Prozac and we use Hemp CBD as well. We are leaning towards a color called Pool Tile from Valspar, which is a lighter teal/blue.
  • We would like to be able to record visual and sounds of the dogs while we are gone. Since my office will he in there, we can use anything that connects to the desk top or wireless. I’ve read lots of weird hacking stories about various monitoring options, so would like it to be very secure from that.
  • There was a post a while ago in here [Facebook] about a remote treat dispenser for working on sep angst or other challenges. I think it was Grisha who had ordered one… any recommendations would be welcome. My wee girl seems to be escalating despite all the usual methods… need to find some way to engage her brain without being in the room. I’ve been considering this one…(Pawbo)
  • I also talked about:
    • BAT Leash skills in busy areas (like at the airport, with luggage)
    • Bean’s trip

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • Colors – dogs see the world mostly in yellows, blues, and grays. Here’s an Animal Wellness Magazine article on color therapy that may help.
  • I mentioned several remote treat dispensers. The Pet Tutor (use coupon code grishastewart for Free Shipping), Petzi Treat Cam, and the Pet CubePawbo does look like a better option for video because it records and sends to dropbox and may have sound on the video. Petzi does not do video and Pet Cube does not have sound on the videos, but both have sound in live streaming. NOTE – I don’t recommend using the laser feature with dogs on any of the devices. It can create obsessive-compulsive (OCD) light-chasing behavior that’s very hard to get rid of.
  • The next Animal World Superstars interview for Pro members is with Dr. Helen Zulch from the UK on February 23 at noon PST.
  • The new BAT 2.0 Book is out!
  • Teamwork BAT Seminars schedule
  • See my YouTube video of urban dog walking using BAT skills with Gabou (in Nice, France)

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Dog to Stop Barking/Growling at the Sound of Playing Kids?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Hi, Grisha. There is a school in front of my house, therefore a lot of noise daytime.The problem is that my dog gets very stressed when hearing those kids screaming , she just walks around the house growling, barking here and there..Haven’t noticed that before as I am usually at work daytime. I was thinking leaving radio on to cover up those sounds.. Any other tips?
  • My client’s dog behaves aggressively with other dogs sometimes, usually but not always with dogs bigger than him. He is a medium-sized pit bull terrier. He is also aggressive with wildlife, tangling with bears and raccoons and won’t disengage. What are the most important things to do and consider in the face of selective aggression to other dogs and such a strong reaction to wildlife? Thanks.
  • I also talked about:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Canine Fitness Seminar Registration – WORKING DOG

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_028_fitness_with_dog)]Thank you for your interest in the Canine Fitness seminar with Lori Stevens. Up to 10 dogs may attend to do the exercises. These are called “working dogs.” Please use the form at the bottom of this page to bring your dog to this seminar.

Working dogs are the only dogs allowed at the seminar, although this is a public park, so other dogs may be in the general area of the seminar. [/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_028_fitness_with_dog)]Thank you, [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]! You have registered to bring one dog to the Lori Stevens Canine Fitness seminar.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_029_fitness_no_dog)]Thank you, [s2Get constant=”S2MEMBER_CURRENT_USER_DISPLAY_NAME” /]! You have already registered to attend the Lori Stevens Canine Fitness seminar WITHOUT your dog. If you would like to change that, please contact Grisha.[/s2If]

The following information is for the working dogs at the seminar. Please visit the main seminar page for more information about the seminar itself.

Notes & Paperwork:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_028_fitness_with_dog)]

[/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_028_fitness_with_dog)]Please log in to view the notes.[/s2If]

Dog requirements:

  • Can be in a classroom setting near dogs all day without aggressive displays or distress.
  • Ok with being alone and/or crated some of the time (see below).
  • Only ‘working dogs’ – dogs registered to attend – may be present.
  • Dogs will be worked one at a time, not simultaneously, so your dog will need to be kept quiet and/or out of view when another dog is working. This approach helps Lori make sure the activities practiced are beneficial to each dog and lets you see a variety of ways to apply her techniques.
  • DO NOT let the dogs greet during the seminar. Use a treat or verbal cue to get your dog’s attention away from other dogs. Pretty much all dogs need space at this sort of event.

Please Bring:

  • Signed Waiver for working dog spots
  • Water bowl
  • Yoga mat
  • Leash and harness on your dog
  • Treats (small treats in a variety of values: low medium, high, crazy good)
  • Chew items to entertain your dog
  • Crate, ex-pen, or shade/cooling contraption in your car – some  way to keep your dog contained and comfortable during the day when not working. We will be working dogs one at a time.
  • Sheet or other type of cover for your crate to help your dog relax if other dogs pass by the crate.
  • Your dog must be pre-trained to be comfortable in his/her crate. Small dogs can be in your lap the whole time if they’re not disturbing anything. Dogs do not have to be crated the whole time but they do need to be out of the way/invisible when it is another dog’s ‘turn’ for demonstration. Some dogs can be crated in the lecture hall but the chairs are anchored down so there is only so much space. Others can be crated just outside the door of the seminar (either in the foyer of the building, which we have reserved or actually outside), with the doors open. If we end up doing that, we will have a volunteer out there to keep an eye on the dogs or  you can stay with your dog and watch the lecture from out there. If it’s not hot, your dog could also be in your car when it’s not working time, but who knows what the weather will be like on June 24 in Alaska!
  • Also bring regular seminar stuff: a way to take notes, a cushion (see below), business cards, walking boots (if you want to walk the trails – probably also bug spray for the hike since it’s Alaska), a coffee mug (we’ll also provide disposables), and lunch unless you plan to drive to get some at a nearby restaurant.

CHECK BACK! This page will have an expanded list of what to bring to the seminar, so please check back before the seminar.

[php]
$CCAP=”seminar_028_fitness_with_dog”;
$maxSize=10;
showRoster($CCAP,$maxSize);
if(IsRoom($CCAP, $maxSize))
{
[/php][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_seminar_028_fitness_with_dog)]

Please register with the form below:

[_s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you are already a member or have made a purchase at GrishaStewart.com before, please log in with the user info you created.[/_s2If][_s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]

Registration comes with one free month of Student membership in the Animal Building Blocks Academy (new members only), which means you have access to several videos weekly video question and answer sessions, and discounts on products in the store, like Grisha’s new BAT 2.0 book. It will stop automatically after one month. [s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”2″ ccaps=”seminar_028_fitness_with_dog” desc=”Lori Stevens Seminar w/ Dog $149″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ta=”0″ tp=”0″ tt=”D” ra=”149″ rp=”1″ rt=”M” rr=”0″ rrt=”” rra=”2″ accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][_s2If current_user_is(s2member_level2)]This seminar is available for our current Student Members for $139 (save $10 off the public price).[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”seminar_028_fitness_with_dog” desc=”Lori Stevens Seminar w/ Dog $139″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”139″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][_s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level3)]This seminar is available for our current Pro Members for $134 (save $15 off the public price).[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”seminar_028_fitness_with_dog” desc=”Lori Stevens Seminar w/ Dog $134″ ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”134″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”0″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]

[php]
}
else echo “There are no more working spots. Auditor spots (without dogs) may still be available. We recommend registering to attend as an auditor and also adding your name here to the working dog waitlist: [contact-form-7 id=’10133′ title=’Waitlist_Fitness’]“;
[/php] Please visit the main Canine Fitness seminar page for more details.

New Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 Book (Press Release)

Grisha and Peanut
Grisha and Peanut – click for high resolution

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Contact: Ellen Naumann
ellen@grishastewart.com
818-281-8235

Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0

New training approach brings hope for dog reactivity and socialization
Continue reading New Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 Book (Press Release)

How Do I Get My Dog to Stop Barking (and not Start Again)?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • my dog is reactive to entire male dogs. Is this a common thing? He is an 8 year old border collie x dog, neutered when he turned 7 by the rescue I got him from.
  • Hi! What is your answer if a client ask you to teach his dog to go off leash? I’m thinking about the other dogs on the walks…
  • following up on Kelly’s question [from last week – about reconsolidation] do you start your sessions this way now ? ( 10 minute exposure) place away and start your session
  • did Bean initially bark like crazy when he saw a dog ? Does he read the signals of the other dogs well?
  • My girl has learned well a “thank you” cue for stopping barking. (i like her to bark for a short period of time) I am not getting a sustained stopping of barking. She barks – I say thank you and she comes to me for a reinforcer but once done finding her cookies on floor she goes back to door to bark more.. How can I get the barking to stop for longer?
  • another question , I feel lifting the dog up who wants up is fine. esp if they feel safe , others feel doing this makes the other greeting dog feel more frustrated as your dog is elevated . how would you handle the other dogs that may jump on you to get to be Bean?
  • not fully related to training, but I’m curious about what kind of diet you usually use for your dogs (kibble, wet, commercial raw, homemade raw, etc). thanks!

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Ahimsa Dog Training Manual eBook Gift

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_001_ahimsa)][_s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]Please first log in with the user info you created for GrishaStewart.com and refresh this page.

[/_s2If]This is a special page for people with a coupon code. [_s2If is_user_logged_in()]To use your coupon code, enter it below and click apply – that will make the payment part of the form disappear. Then click on Submit Form at the bottom.[/_s2If] If you do not have a code, please visit the regular Ahimsa Manual page.
[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_001_ahimsa)]

You may download the ENGLISH version of the Ahimsa Manual now.
Please click here for the English download page.


[/s2If]
[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_004_ahimsanl)]

You may download the DUTCH version now.
Please click here for the Dutch (Nederlands) download page.


[/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_001_ahimsa) AND current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_webinar_041_batevolution)][_s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]The regular price is $9.95. If you have a coupon for a free book, log in and enter that code first, then click APPLY.[/_s2If][_s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]
[s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”1″ ccaps=”ebook_001_ahimsa” desc=”Ahimsa Manual eBook” ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ta=”0″ tp=”0″ tt=”D” ra=”9.95″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” rrt=”” rra=”2″ accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”1″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][_s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)][s2Member-Pro-PayPal-Form level=”*” ccaps=”ebook_001_ahimsa” desc=”Ahimsa Manual eBook” ps=”paypal” lc=”” cc=”USD” dg=”0″ ns=”1″ custom=”grishastewart.com” ra=”9.95″ rp=”1″ rt=”L” rr=”BN” accept=”paypal,visa,mastercard,amex,discover,maestro,solo” accept_via_paypal=”paypal” coupon=”” accept_coupons=”1″ default_country_code=”” captcha=”0″ /][/_s2If][/s2If]


REVIEWS!

“Of the thousands of dog training books out there, it’s rare finding one that has something new to say or presents the science of positive training in a unique and meaningful way. Grisha’s new book, the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual, does just that. Clear, concise, informative and extremely user-friendly, this book deserves a prominent place on every trainer’s bookshelf.”

Paul Owens
Best-selling author of “The Dog Whisperer; A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training” (Adams Media, 1999) and “The Puppy Whisperer A Compassionate, Nonviolent Guide to Early Training and Care” (Adams Media, 2007)

*****
“This is it! This is the easy-to-read, concise handbook that every responsible dog owner will want to read. This manual spells out practical, step-by-step training solutions while educating the reader on the science behind the theory. Grisha is the leading authority on Behavior Adjustment Training, and shares her unique method of bringing about change in a positive, force-free, and fear-free environment. This book also shows us a way to teach loose-leash walking that is free from frustration and maps a clear strategy for us to follow.

Kyra Sundance
Renowned Stunt Dog Performer and author of best seller “101 Dog Tricks”

*****
When Fido arrives at the intersection of Good Dog Street and Bad Dog Alley, which way will he go?” asks Grisha Stewart in her book, The Official Ahimsa Dog Training Manual: A Practical, Force-Free Guide to Problem Solving and Manners. Grisha’s book can help you manage Fido’s environment and train him to make good choices. She offers a variety of force-free ways to train common behaviors, and her writing is always engaging and as friendly as her methods. Your dog will definitely enjoy your training sessions based on this book.”

*****
-Teoti Anderson, CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP, Pawsitive Results, LLC, Lexington, SC
APDT Past President and of “Your Outta Control Puppy,” “Super Simple Guide to Housetraining,” “Quick & Easy Crate Training,” and “Puppy Care and Training”

How Do I Get My ‘Donkey Dog’ to Stop Lagging?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Hi Grisha! On the FB group, I asked how common it is for a dog not to wag its tail as a sign of ‘hello/happy’ when interacting with other dogs (my dog will usually wag his tail while barking as a warning sign). Some members replied that some dogs are like that. I was wondering (1) what was your thought? (2) Do you think it can be taught so that he learns to initiate plays w/ other dogs nicely?
  • How do you train a dog to pee on cue? If using a clicker for instance, would you click when he starts peeing or at the end? I have managed to teach my dog all sorts of cues but this one seems impossible.. He’s house train but he’ll take his time when we are out to pee and sometimes I sadly don’t have the time for a walk and it would be great if he could do it on cue.
  • My 5 month dog tends to stop during leashed walks since day one. She walks next to me on loose leash, no pulling, but frequently she’ll stop and look around (no triggers found so far). We’ve worked on “let’s go” and giving in to gentle leash pressure, but often i have to wait. Apart from that, she’s very good walking off leash and won’t separate too much . Any advice?
  • I was watching Joseph LeDoux interview for the umpteenth time(it was sooo good) Can you explain your understanding of it in terms of a BAT set up or other training so I am clearer on it.
    (What I am hearing is expose a fearful dog to the trigger (follow dog) at under threshold distance and then take a 10 minute break. Now go back and start a BAT Session)
  • I also talked about:
    • Dog play and body language, BAT
    • Nail trimming and the More Please Signal (video of Bean)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Emily Larlham (Kikopup) Recording

How Do I Balance Loose Leash Time and Heeling?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • I use the Mendota leash for BAT setups AND also for our daily walks. I often walk
    out in a park where my dog has lots of room to roam (on leash.) There are areas where we transition from wide open space to narrow sidewalk beside traffic. I’m having difficulty with these transitions. Once we establish the long loose leash pattern of walking Lucy doesn’t want to walk beside me.
  • When it’s icy outside how can I teach my dog to move slowly so I don’t fall?
  • Have you any tips for helping a fearful dog relax in the garden if a neighbours dog is barking? Whats the best way to teach BamBam not to bark back if he hears next doors dog? We’ve not moved in yet so have a few weeks to work on it and the last thing I want to do is let him in the new garden to either hate being in there, or to just be really barky when outside.
  • Hi Grisha. I just finished watching BAT workshop. My dog Lola is a rescue, I believe here reactivity is down to bad socialization growling, lunging on leash then over excitement when she does meet other dogs. Of lease she lunges straight in, no manors. But this is not with every dog of leash. When under training until issue is resolved would Lola not be allowed to greet other dogs?
  • My puppy seems to like belly rubs a lot. When she meets new people she’ll sometimes go into a belly roll. I don’t know whether it is a good thing or it means she’s scared. Often she doesn’t move immediately away from the person. Could I read this as a ‘i love belly rubs’ behaviour? How can I know when she’s scared? Ears back, etc?
  • I have a client with two one year old German Shepherds, littermates. About a month ago one of the dogs started behaving obsessively. He chases his tail and runs around things like cars and trees all day long. What is the best way to help this dog stop this heartbreaking behaviour? Thank you!
  • I also talked about:
    • Off Leash BAT
    • Play time with dogs doing splitting to calm down others’ play
    • And Bean was a goofy nut with his new crate – watch him at about 22:20

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

What Do I Do If My Dog Pins Another Dog?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • I’m trying to do a BAT setting to work with my dog who’s reactive with puppies. My main issue is that my dog will react to a puppy that comes running towards him. Any advice on how I can do the setting to teach him that a puppy running towards him it’s ok? I know BAT needs to be boring , how do you manage that when the puppy is not calm and that’s what makes Boston reacts.
  • My neighbour has two dogs, one human-freindly, but dog aggressive and one who I’ve always avoided because it’s given aggressive behaviour in the past. As I was patting the human-friendly dog today, the other was watching me, ears pinned back, winning and straining towards us. I didn’t know how to read that. Can wining be related to aggression?
  • I’ve seen your video where you talk about toilet training and how you have two cues for the two functions. I’m a bit confused as to how that works. Does the dog learn which you want and does it? What is the advantage of two cues?
  • We walk our dog on a field and most of the time can stay well away from other dogs. When we haven’t left enough space, BamBam lies down facing the oncoming dog. We try everything we can to get him up and moving but nothing works except for pulling him away. Usually, ‘find it’ and ‘lets go’ work when he is under threshold but what to do when he is over threshold?
  • In one of your videos you said you tied a kong to the end of Peanut’s lead. Did it encourage him to chew on your lead? How would your prevent that?
  • Hi Grisha, may I have some advice on how to force free training my dog to enjoy his shower? We only have a bath tub with a shower jet. So he can’t freely come in and out of it. We’ve tried adding some cheese in a tube (cheese paste?) and treats while washing him. But he still doesn’t enjoy it and will go to his bed where he knows we won’t bother him when it’s bath time… Many thanks!
  • I was recently reading about oral hypo sensitivity in humans (leads to a lot of chewing and biting behavior in kids) and it reminded me of retrievers. Have you ever seen any research on oral hypo sensitivity in dogs as it relates to chewing, mouthing, licking, carrying toys frequently, or coprophagia?
  • You always have creative solutions. My dog has shy tendencies and does not like things over his head. He had a hot spot on the his lower hock, (i.e. very far from his mouth.) I treed to use soft and gentle cones, to prevent him from biting it, but they were not long enough, so had to use the traditional one from the DVM. Any, other ideas for the future?
  • Apologies if this is obvious, but is the Facebook group that you are mentioning the “Grisha Stewart’s Animal Building Blocks Academy“? 🙂
  • Have you ever tried BAT where the client dog very small such as a Chihuahua? How would you work that out? What size helper dog would you use? How would you work on food rewards, if the dog became full easily?
  • Part 2-DVM cone shaped collar
    Day one of my dog wearing the transparent plastic cone collar, (only) large dogs have been growling or barking at him. What could they be responding to? Small dogs have not.
  • Maybe you have any suggestions about stressless vaccination? Couldnt do it today as my dog is too afraid due to recent painful nail clipping. I have two weeks until the next shot. My plan is to go to the clinic everyday to desensitize, do you have any tips? the vet cannot even touch her, I’m considering doing the shots myself.. thanks!
  • Hi Grisha, do you have any tips how to train the stay (especially long duration) with a very active / excited dog? Thanks
  • Many people say that this is good, for dogs with shy tendencies, (not in competition.) What are your thoughts and why do you think it works? Could it be part of a BAT set up?
  • If a dog has shy and reactive tendencies and is also ‘velcro’ dog around his owner, would that make sense to you?Would you see it as something that needs modification, if the dog does not have separation anxiety when his owner is not home.
  • If by misfortune, my dog pins down another dog. What would you recommend me to do? Would you remove my dog and ignore the behaviour

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Roster

Click here for the Member Search page

Courses:

Webinars:

 


Real Dog Yoga (1.5 hours)

Online seminar recorded December 15, 2015 – Presented by: Jo-Rosie Haffenden. Get the scientific foundation of Real Dog Yoga and how to involve this practice in all of your training. “Yoga is defined as the stilling of the senses. It is a practice which involves people taking and holding specific postures, focusing on the present, and working on physical stimulation as a pathway to still themselves mentally. Real Dog Yoga shares the same aims [but for dogs], as well as improving focus, body consciousness, and dog-human connection.”


Continue reading Real Dog Yoga (1.5 hours)

How Do I Get a Dog Used to Newborn Babies?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • i have conditioned my dog to the door bell and he no longer barks at that but he has moved onto barking when we speak to the person at the door and he also barks at us as we get up to answer the door how do i stop this. thank you
  • Just a thought about projecting your dog from other dogs, if you had a not friendly dog (off leash) came racing up to yours, could your train your dog to leap up into you arms for those occasions? Would that be empowerment or do you think it could create a negative association?
  • Bean and Peanut are so adorable together. What happens if Bean rings the bell to be let out of his crate and no one is at home, to let him out?
    Or, do you take the bell away when no one is at home?
  • My client is pregnant and expecting their newborn in May, Im helping them prepare there dog with obedience training and socialization to the new noises that come with a newborn(crying etc.). Anything else you would recommend?
  • My dog TT is doing a chin over behaviour with other dogs. He’s a big dog and puts his chin on the shoulders or back of another dog. They don’t like it but he’s not very good at taking the hint. I ask him to leave it when he does it, not always successfully as he gets very excited. Any insight into this behaviour? He is 6 and likes other dogs.
  • 7 month old female has a very strong Coprophagia behavior. She will poop on a walk and as soon as she’s unsupervised, will poop in the house and eat it. She will poop multiple times in the backyard, come inside and if allowed back outside, will immediately poop/eat. I’ve given her instructions about management and training but welcome your suggestions to make sure I’m not missing anything.
  • I have seen other dogs put their heads under another dogs chin what do you think they want to achieve with this?
  • How do you think puppies and adult dogs should be introduced? Should puppies be kept away from most adult dogs to avoid potential fights?
  • Does doing a lot of BAT from an early puppy age make the dog be ore aware of where you are and stay closer to you off leash?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Greg McKeown (Essentialism) Recording

Life Hack: Yours/Mine Position for Treat Delivery

When you change your behavior, your dog can change his!

I came up with a specific way to feed treats so that it’s clear to my dog when he’s allowed to take the treat. Humans talk a lot to dogs, but dogs are actually very visual, and they usually understand hand signals better than vocal cues. Try this out – your dog should learn to see the difference very quickly. Continue reading Life Hack: Yours/Mine Position for Treat Delivery

How Can I Avoid Separation Anxiety in My Puppy?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • How can I avoid separation anxiety? I wear the same work uniform for work every day. My usual routine is get dressed, make lunch and breakfast then go to work. When I get my puppy, should I establish this routine with her (I’ll have holiday time off to help her settle in), i.e. dress in my work clothes but not leave the house? How do I prevent it happening when I work?
  • Very excited about your cross-country training sessions, minus dogs. Can you please describe in more detail? How many participants will be at each event?
  • I know you demo’s ‘Leave it’ and ‘Take It’ with Bean a few weeks back on the Q&A. Can you please talk about translating leave it, when one’s dog comes upon a tasty treat in the street? The ‘Leave it’ at home, does not appear to translate to my dog in the new and unexpected context.
  • With noise desensitization (audio recordings) could you string a few noises together and slowly increase the volume?
  • Bean playing catch it is amazing. How do you actually teach it?
  • When applying BAT 2.0 to dogs are overly aroused and super excited to see people or other dogs would all the same principles apply? Are there any alterations to the technique or suggestions that you’d make for those dogs in particular?
  • How do I get my little puppy interested in me and treats when we are out.
    She is 10 week. And only interested in small branches and other things like that.
    Inside much better. But only 2 or 3 times then she loose interest
  • Special topics:
    • I did a demo of treat catching with Bean

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Course Overview (Syllabus)

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep) AND current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_005_pp)]

To view the rest of the lessons, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

If you haven’t already signed up for ABBA membership, consider doing so because it is a great way to stay motivated. One thing members get is access to Grisha’s ABBA Facebook group. You can post videos and ask/answer questions in a discussion with your fellow ABBA members. The group is moderated by our teaching staff to keep the conversations on track.

How to Use These Lessons

This agenda is listed with weekly lessons to match the Live Video Group Classes (when offered), but you can take whatever time you need for self-study. These courses don’t expire.

For example, you could read through it all before you even get your puppy and then go through it more slowly when you have your dog.

I recommend that you purchase the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual eBook to read with this course. After this course, try these follow-ups: Two-Way Communication, Cooperative Care, Essential Skills, Leash Skills courses (can also be taken at the same time, if you have time).

When live group classes or recordings are available, a link will go here. Even if we do another round next year, you’ll still get access, because courses don’t expire. Pretty cool!

Week 1: Empowerment

  • The perfect dog
  • Philosophy of Empowerment
  • 2-way Communication with your dog, including body language
  • What cooperation looks like and how to get it
  • Training: Head through harness
  • Training: Take treats gently

Lesson 2: Social Skills

  • People
  • Dogs
  • Other species
  • Play, conflict resolution, and social consequences
  • Training: potty outside

Lesson 3: Needs & Problem Solving

  • What does your puppy need?
  • How do you know?
  • How needs lead to problems
  • Frustration Tolerance
  • Food puzzles
  • Which skills help with which problems
  • Another dose of philosophy
  • Training: Food bowl

Lesson 4: The Environment

  • Surfaces
  • Sounds
  • Moving objects
  • Balance & proprioception
  • Parallel play
  • Training: Crate

How Do I Train a Dog That Hugging is Not Fighting?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • I believe that in the language of the exposure therapy researchers … there is a similarity between “extinction ” as they use the word and counter-conditioning as we would.ie that the “memory path” connected to a stimulus gets relearned, establishing a different path … (and the original path still exists, but is lessened in “strength”)
  • Great video of Bean testing out the boots on the snow. Could a person teach that skill to an adult dog? What brand are the boots? They look really good!
  • Is there any behaviour issues with getting the runt of the litter? Anything to watch out for?
  • The puppy I’ve tentatively chosen from the litter seems to have less fur on her nose area (I don’t think there were any noticeable bald patches). I’ve been told this will require suncream to prevent sunburn and cancer. Have you had any experience with this? Is it manageable to live with a dog like this?
  • My last dog was very territorial and couldn’t handle people hugging me or me mucking around with my little brother whose nine (pillow fights, wrestling). How can I train my new puppy to know that this behaviour is okay?
  • Until what age, on average do you think that dogs can still learn novel ideas?I do not mean tricks, but new skills or new cues?
  • I was playing fetch and tug with a dog this week. She would bring the toy to me and then when I went to pick it up, she’d pounce on it and it would become a tug game. From her body language (slow wag, ears forward, no growl) I didn’t think it was resource guarding, but can tug games be mis-interrupted?
  • Any suggestions re coping mechanisms when we’re in a position that’s inescapable and beyond what I’ve trained Sunrise to handle? Think icy driveway/running to breakfast on taut leash. I didn’t have time to “BAT” breakfast or train a strong enough hand target (heel) before our driveway turned to ice, and now I have a confused pulling dog who doesn’t know why her human won’t run with her.
  • Multiple dog household resource guarding, when the resource is me. Any tips?
  • Hi! I have a Border Collie Male with 5 years old and recently we moved from city . He has shown great reactivity toward people who visit us . I can´t see what triggers the behavior, as sometimes happens with people in the street too, but others dont. Last week we went to play with frisbee and he saw a gardener and barked very frantically. We started playing with the idea of having another routine.Follow-up: forgot to mention that he don´t like to see people running or my husband going away when we are in the park. I think that I have to teach him to stay calm under different triggers.
  • Special topics:
    • I did a demo of tug with Bean

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • Real Dog Yoga webinar with Jo-Rosie Haffenden is December 15. All members get discounts on registration for this live online seminar.
  • Dog boots:
    • Here are the silicone dog boots I had in the video. I liked how it was easy for him to get his own paw into them. But I think they aren’t warm enough.
    • These are the new dog boots I just ordered
    • Musher’s Secret is the wax I was talking about. It looks like there are other brands, but I haven’t tried them. Pawtector is organic and vegan.
  • I mentioned the BAT Course and the BAT 2.0 series of Feature Films and the new BAT 2.0 book, which you can pre-order.
  • The toys you saw on the video were the Holee Roller (with a GoDog Dragon toy stuffed inside and the one I tugged with was a dinosaur from Kong that I don’t see online. No “chewproof” soft toy has proven to be chewproof in my house, though. 🙂

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Can You Really Erase the Emotion from a Memory?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • When my dog gets wet, either from rain or from a bath, (which he does not enjoy,) he is very cuddly and physically playful. Normally, he is more inhibited about this kind of physical interaction.  Is this common?
  • Looking into buying a dog crate for my puppy. Should you have two crates, one for home, one for in the car, or could you use one soft fabric type crate for both scenarios?
  • Is it best to travel with a dog in a car crate and train a puppy to like this, instead of on sitting on back seat or in car boot?
  • Where is the best place to set up my puppy’s play pen and crate within my house? I have a small living room (the most ideal pace), tiny bathroom and spare room. I want to focus on training the puppy to be left alone as I work during the day. Should I put the puppy in the living room or spare room?
  • If your dog barks at a some trigger out of fear or frustration and you give your dog a treat, do you reinforce the barking? The food is not reinforcing that emotion, but what about the behavior?
  • Today we were working with BAT and the “decoy” dog was becoming restless, jumping up and wanting to play. This was very exciting for Lucy. So we intuitively and spontaneously changed our pattern and started moving more parallel, not walking, more like figure 8’s….to give him a break. My question is -is it ok to change the basic circular BAT pattern? What would you have done?
  • Special topics:
    • I talked about some of the points from Joseph LeDoux’s interview and work, especially reconsolidation and the possible benefits of “compound extinction” – working with more than one trigger stimulus simultaneously.  This also brought some follow-up questions.
      • Can you explain how Joseph was using the word extinction?
      • Would exposure to multiple dogs be related to flooding?
      • Is this the same kind of extinction burst that isn’t favored on Susan”s hierarchy?
      • To pull up the memory, are you trying for arousal or just under threshold exposure to the trigger?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Joseph LeDoux, Ph.D. (Neuroscience) Recording

How Do I Train My Dog to Stop Eating Poop?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]In the Office Hours, I answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • How do you divide your time between Peanut and Bean together and individually, to make sure that you can work with them on individual skills?
  • Following my previous question about ‘find the treat’ and your explanation, I have a client who asked me if the fact of teaching her dog to look for treats (on cue or not), wouldn’t encourage him to scavenge?
  • My dog is eating poop. She only does it in the winter, and she brings them inside! What can I do to get her to stop this disgusting habit? (coprophagia)
  • Special topics:
    • Bean’s dog boots
    • Office hours switching to just Tuesdays from now on

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Train My Dog to Stand & Enjoy Petting?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Which of the videos here outlines a good training plan for an adopted dog with key skills to train?
  • When do you begin to use “all done” -cue with the crate training, when the dog wants out of the crate but you deny it?
  • If you have a dog and want to adopt another, what is the best way to introduce the two dogs, length of time needed to judge to tell if it will be a match?
  • Hello, My dog and I have joined a Responsible pet program which involves visiting schools teaching kids how to be safe around dogs. Spice needs to stand for pats being stroked from neck to base of tail. The children approach her. She stands still but tail is a bit low. How would you approach training her to love this? Thank you 🙂
  • I’m bringing home a puppy and preparing for the house training stage. I had a high reactive dog who was rehomed because of dangerous aggression, one triggers was my back yard with two aggressive next door dogs. Kept my previous dog inside while at work. Will be home for the puppy for a few weeks, but what happens when I go to work, toilet training wise, if he’s an inside dog? No dog flap.
  • For toilet training a puppy in an apartment situation (plus having to leave the house for work), does the fake grass system work? Is there other ways to house train?
  • Hi Grisha, I’ve taught my dog the cue ‘find treat’. It works really well to distract him. He gets VERY excited when he hears it. So I wonder if that level of excitement isn’t counterproductive with the idea of calming him? Thanks 🙂
  • (Follow-up for Spice) Would teaching Spice to target something ( target stick) while being patted be something you would try- so when she stops targeting the kids are instructed to stop patting?
  • Special topics:
    • Bean’s new crate

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Dog to Pay Attention?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • How do I motivate a prey-driven, social greeting driven dog to want to pay attention to me on walks and in public? The dog wants nothing to do with food when she is interested in these other things.
  • My puppy keeps stealing my socks. How can I get him to stop doing that?
  • Special topics:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Should You Correct the Dog for Disobeying After He KNOWS the Training?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • An Animal Welfare Act has been approved in a second Canadian province to outlaw animal ear cropping and tail docking. I know that this is also true in certain European cities where you have taught. Do you think that this might become law in some (or all,) American cities also?
  • Watched the great Eric Brad recording! Imagine that this is hard to estimate, but if a person went from being a traditional trainer to being a positive reinforcement trainer with the same dog, what would / could the reaction be in the dog initially? And, how long could it take the dog to buy in?
  • My 3 year old Border collie cross is extremely fearful of parachute jumpers and wind surfers on the beach. We have to run off the beach. I have bought a kite and have been able to get her used to it on the ground but she gets very anxious when it lifts 1-2 meters off the ground. After she has seen a kite or parachute jumper she scans the sky for 2-3 days. She is ok with aeroplanes 🙂
  • Last week, in the Q& A. I think that you said, ‘That you train for life?” Does that mean that you will be training Bean and Peanut for their entire lives?With Peanut and dogs who are older, would you recommend, teaching new and slightly more challenging things to them, related to their skill set?
  • Jump up for Bean. Thanks for that great demo.What do you think about teaching this for small dogs to be on a box or table for cooperative care?Would that be more comfortable for a small dog, or is it the same of the owner sits on the ground or floor?
  • I run a dog daycare and when a new dog comes in, everybody rushes to the fence and starts barking. What are some ways to get that to stop?
  • I’d like to do some concept training with my dog. How to you teach a dog left or right? What else can you teach?
  • Special topics:
    • Training with positive training but then using corrections when the dog “knows it.”

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Many Dogs is Too Many?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Cousins have an intact, puppy mill, mini-poodle in their building who has not been trained and has sadly bitten people and other dogs. If the family who own him had him neutered do you think he might develop less fearful and aggressive tendencies or would that not change without training?
  • BAT for a hyper-greeter/jumper. I’d appreciate advice on implementing BAT in a very small apartment for a 4-year-old female bulldog who is unable to calm down when guests come over (jumping/licking/in your face) for over 2 hours! We have started working on Dr. Overall’s relaxation protocol, self-control (choice) exercises, etc. I’ve recently purchased the BAT 101 and Barking Mad courses and read through them (haven’t started practicing with her yet). I’m just not clear on how to implement the techniques in our tiny apartment since I have the feeling that if I use Mark & Move I will increase her frustration if I move away, and if I use moving a step towards the guest as a reward for relative calm, she will also not be able to handle it.
  • My dog is biting at the vacuum cleaner. How can I fix that?
  • I am thinking about getting another dog. How many is too many? I have 4 already.
  • When I teach Stay, I’m seeing some stress signs. Should I worry about that? If so, what should I do?
  • Special topics:
    • Bean Jumping into my arms (talked through the jumping video)
    • Answering Facebook question related to my barking video: Grisha, do you think Bean thought that barking was part of a shaping exercise even though he did not get reinforced or was he already frustration barking before this video? I was wondering if he thought maybe it was a behavior chain not negative reinforcement. I’ve noticed that some dogs with extensive shaping backgrounds often get into some odd superstitious behavior and chains.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Can I Help My Cat Transition Into Being a Tripod? November 3

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Wondering your thoughts on amputation of a rear limb for a cat. Looking for your input from emotional/quality of life/behavior/adjustment tips perspective. We aren’t sure if we will need to but the vets assure us that “cats adjust just fine.” Our kitty doesn’t have front claws (a move I regret but didn’t know better at the time.) In case that’s a factor.
  • If I cue my dog to go to her place when she’s feeling uncomfortable around our soon-to-be crawling kiddo, and then reinforce her for going to that place- will that help her learn to retreat when she’s uncomfortable? Plan A is to manage kid 100% of the time to keep her away from dog but I like the idea of teaching Sonar a skill that gives her some control as well.
  • Based on the example that Susan gave in her talk about traveling being exciting or draining depending emotions as an antecedent- does it follow that using abrupt interrupters like “NO!” actually lessens the likelihood that your dog will be able to follow the next cue?
  • Munich the Doberman is healing from a severe UTI and a round of strong antibiotics. He’s lost his appetite and really only wants to eat when he’s working. He will eat pretty readily when the food is a reward for a cue. The vet has cleared him healthwise so do you have any suggestions for returning to eating from a bowl again. We have tried different kibbles and raw to entice him-no luck.
  • Special topics:

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Ahimsa eBook Dutch: “Ahimsa-gids voor honden: Je hond dwangvrij opvoeden en begeleiden”

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“ebook_004_ahimsanl”);[/PHP][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the GrishaStewart.com user info that you created.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_004_ahimsanl)]

Thank you for purchasing this eBook.
Downloaden: ZIP (PDF)


eBook (PDF)
[/s2If]
Ahimsa-NL-coverGrisha Stewart is de grondlegger van Ahimsa Dog Training in Seattle. Ze werkt met een team van meer dan tien mensen en haar hondenschool heeft vele prijzen gewonnen, waaronder Beste van Seattle en Beste van het westelijk deel van de staat Washington. Grisha is wiskundige van origine en ze is door haar passie voor honden uitgegroeid tot internationaal bekend instructeur en veelgevraagd spreker.

[php]

$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “ebook_004_ahimsanl”;
$desc = “eBook: Ahimsa-gids (PDF)”;
$price = “9.95”;
$productType = “ebooks”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

Ahimsa-NL-backCurrent Table of Contents (subject to change):

  • INLEIDING
  • COMMUNICATIE & LEREN IS TWEERICHTINGSVERKEER
    • DE COMMUNICATIE VAN JE HOND BEGRIJPEN
    • LEERTHEORIE
      • Vier types gevolgen van gedrag
      • Richt je op leuke dingen
      • Smoren met liefde; over beloningen
    • HONDEN LERENVAN HUN ERVARINGEN: SOCIALISATIE VAN PUPS
  • CLICKERTRAINING WERKT
    • WAT IS EEN CLICKER?
    • WAAROM WERKT EEN CLICKER?
  • PROBLEEMGEDRAG OPLOSSEN
    • OPSPRINGEN EN ANDER ONBEWUST AANGELEERD GEDRAG
    • FUNCTIONELE BELONINGEN
    • ZINDELIJK MAKEN
    • BIJTEN & KAUWEN
    • VIJFTIEN TIPS OM BLAFFEN TIJDENS DE LES TE LATEN STOPPEN
    • ANGST, FRUSTRATIE EN AGRESSIE
      • Contraconditionering en systematische desensibilisatie
      • BAT
    • BAT-LIJNTECHNIEK VOOR ALLE HONDEN
    • LAAT ME NIET ALLEEN! HOE VOORKOM JE VERLATINGSANGST
    • DIE IS VAN MIJ! HOE VOORKOM EN BEHANDEL JE BEZITSAGRESSIE
  • GOEDE GEWOONTES ZIJN MOEILIJK AF TE LEREN
    • BETROUWBAAR GEDRAG AANLEREN, HET TRAININGSPROCES
    • KEUZEPUNTEN; ZORG DAT JE HOND SUCCES HEEFT
    • EEN CUE AAN GEDRAG KOPPELEN
    • NAAMSPEL
    • KIJK
    • ROEPEN; KOMEN OP VERZOEK
      • Wat moet je vermijden als je Hier oefent
      • Algemene tips voor Hier
      • Feestje; de noodroep
      • Oefenen, oefenen, oefenen
      • Geleidelijk moeilijker maken
      • Snoep zoeken; een leuke manier om spelenderwijs te oefenen
      • Meer spelletjes
    • EEN CUE OM TE ONTSPANNEN
    • ZIT
    • AF
    • VRIJ GEVEN; ZIJN WE AL KLAAR?
      • Vrij
      • Klaar
    • BLIJF
    • WACHT
    • TOUCH; NEUS- HANDTARGET
    • NETJES AAN DE LIJN LOPEN
      • Klikken voor aandacht – klikken voor positie
      • Wenden en volgen
      • Lopen met aandacht (met Touch erbij is het volgen)
      • Boom spelen of Achteruitlopen
      • Snelheidstraining
      • Strafmeters
      • Silky leash-techniek
    • LAAT
    • GEEF OF LOS
    • REGELS VOOR TREKSPELLETJES
    • 101 DINGEN OM MET EEN DOOS TE DOEN
    • OP JE PLAATS – IN JE MAND
    • BENCHTRAINING
    • VEEL SUCCES EN GA ZO DOOR
  • BRONNEN VOOR NOG MEER HULP
  • OVER DE AUTEUR

Aanbevelingen

Of het nu over pups opvoeden of over leertheorieën gaat, Grisha heeft gedaan waar ze het best in is: ingewikkelde onderwerpen op een begrijpelijke manier uitleggen. Dit boek vormt een prima basis voor hondenbezitters om hun hond goede hondenmanieren te leren en vaak voorkomende problemen aan te pakken. Het bevat instructies om gewenst gedrag aan te leren, maar daarnaast behandelt Grisha ook angstig en reactief gedrag; ze biedt hondenbezit-ters de mogelijkheid om vaardigheden te leren waarmee ze een goede basis kunnen leggen, met als resultaat een hond die zich gelukkiger en ontspannener voelt. Ten slotte is dit een prima gids om mee te geven aan mensen die een herplaatshond in huis nemen, en instructeurs kunnen hem aan hun cliën-ten geven; dit alles met het doel honden en mensen te helpen om vreed-zaam en in harmonie met elkaar samen te leven. De Ahimsa-gids voor honden is een must voor iedereen die beroepsmatig of privé met honden omgaat.

– Nan Arthur, auteur van Chill Out Fido! How to Calm Your Dog.

Tussen de duizenden boeken over hondengedrag en -opvoeding is het lastig er een te vinden waarin daadwerkelijk iets nieuws wordt ge-meld of een waarin de wetenschappelijke kennis met betrekking tot posi-tieve training op een goede manier wordt uitgelegd. Grisha doet dat wel in haar boekje, de Ahimsa-gids voor honden. Het boekje is duidelijk, beknopt, informatief en zeer gebruiksvriendelijk, en verdient een promi-nente plaats in de boekenkast van iedere instructeur.

– Paul Owens, auteur van de bestsellers The Dog Whisperer; A Compas-sionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training en The Puppy Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Guide to Early Training and Care.

Dit is het: een leesbaar, beknopt handboek dat iedere verstandige hondenbezitter zal willen lezen. Deze gids beschrijft praktische, stap-voor-stap-oplossingen en de lezer krijgt daarnaast ook inzicht in de we-tenschap achter de theorie. Grisha is dé autoriteit op het gebied van BAT en ze deelt haar unieke methode met anderen om een verandering in de omgang met honden te bewerkstelligen en een positieve omgeving voor ze te creëren waarin macht en angst geen rol spelen. Ze laat ons aan de hand van duidelijke instructies en tekeningen een nieuwe manier zien om onze honden te leren netjes aan de lijn te lopen; zonder frustraties. De hondenwereld is Grisha dankbaar dat ze ondanks haar drukke werk-zaamheden de tijd heeft genomen deze fantastische gids voor ons te schrijven.

– Kyra Sundance, beroemd om haar werk met stunthonden en auteur van 101 Dog Tricks.

‘Als Fido bij de kruising tussen de weg naar Brave Hond en de weg naar Stoute Hond aankomt, welke richting kiest hij dan?’ vraagt Grisha Stewart in haar boek, De officiële Ahimsa-gids voor honden. Grisha’s boek kan je helpen Fido’s omgeving te managen en hem te leren de juis-te keuzes te maken. Ze reikt verschillende manieren aan om je hond zonder dwang gewenst gedrag te leren, en dat doet ze net zo innemend en vriendelijk als haar methodes zijn. Als je dit boek als leidraad neemt, zal je hond veel meer plezier aan je trainingssessies beleven.

– Teoti Anderson, auteur van Puppy Care and Training en Your Outta Control Puppy: How to Turn Your Precocious Pup Into a Perfect Pet en ex-voorzitter van de APDT (Association of Pet Dog Trainers).

Geweldig boek voor pupkopers. Het biedt de basis voor alles wat een hond moet leren, in begrijpelijke bewoordingen. Fokkers zouden het in hun puppenpakket moeten stoppen. Kan ik een hele partij bestellen?

– Michel Berner, Viszlafokker


[PHP]buyNowButton($ebook_004_ahimsanl);[/PHP]Note: I sell only the digital download version of this eBook. You can get the paperback edition from the publisher, Plasman Vertalingen / Uitgeverij

My Dog has Generalized Anxiety Outside. What Do I Do? October 29

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • My dog has shy tendencies, (he shuts down when there are too many novel stimuli, too many choices. We have been doing the BAT leash work and your assignments for 15 months. Maybe he is anxious on city walks from being able to make too many choices in areas when there is too much stimulation?? What would you recommend–for example LLW, ‘Touch’ ‘Heeling’?
  • Crates: I have read in the past that crate sizes should be (x) times the size of your dog, i.e. much smaller in relation to the dog’s size. I noticed in the YouTube video you showed in the Q+A last Tuesday, that Bean’s crate is much larger than he is. Can you please talk about what you think is the right size create for a dog?
  • Is your ‘Modern Dog Training’ talk–How do we sign up for it?
  • Trying to ‘problem solve by using,’ LLW, ‘Touch’, as an experiment to see if this structure reduces the stress of from walking in urban areas… But, his response it to take treats more ‘frantically’, (i.e. super fast, intense, tapping my hand harder,) which may indicate more anxiety?
    He is acting hungry to starving all of the time?
    No medical cause.
  • Special topics:
    • Summary of answers to the questions that I was going to ask Susan Friedman during her Animal World Superstars interview: What are some common mistakes made by trainers who are experienced but not familiar with behavior analysis?What are some mistakes made by behavior analysts that are not experienced with hands on work with that species?Behavior Analysis applies to all species of learners. When you are working an animal behavior case, do you ever stop and do a formal functional assessment of the caretaker’s behavior?

      Beck: Your Humane Hierarchy prompts me to try to reframe society’s long-held beliefs about the behaviors of all species. I wondered if you could comment on “cry it out sleep training” for human infants.

      Alexandra: I have a dog that whines incessantly while travelling in the car. How do I address this and get him to be quiet?

    • Who do you want for your next guests on Animal World Superstars?
    • Training Bean

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Does My Dog Know When He Can Say Hi On Leash? October 27

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • BAT has really improved my reactive, however I feel like my calm dog has been tagging along on a lot of the reactive dog stuff and has not had the chance to do activities that suit her. Do you have any advice/suggestions on how to juggle training schedules so that both have a fair chance to spend quality training time while still making steady progress with the reactive one.
  • My dog with shy tendencies has a strong and positive reinforcement history for the cue ‘find it’, with our BAT work. Now I want to reinforce him to ‘leave it,’ ( to avoid eating food on the street and in the park.) He is confused. Can you make any suggestions?
  • In BAT setups you let your dog greet the decoy dog. How does the dog know in real life whether he is allowed to greet the other dog walking towards us or not? Or does the greetings in setups bring this kind of problems at all? Do the dogs begin to want to greet other dogs?
  • BAT setup is easier when the decoy dog is sitting the whole time. Should there be more movement in some setups or not necessary?
  • With two shy, but friendly dogs, would you use ninja BAT to let them greet? How abot two puppies, who both are shy, but friendly. How to let them greet?
  • My dog, who is very people friendly, is reactive whenever another dog behaves reactively towards another person.This is particularly the case with dogs he knows and looks up to. He then barks and lunges back and forth (conflicted). At this point, his amazing recall fails (though I can call him off a running deer!).Can BAT help with this?
  • Special topic:
    • All Done signal

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Susan Friedman, Ph.D. (Behavior Analysis) Recording

What Dog Stress Signs Should I Look for When Walking? October 20

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Can you talk a little bit about doing following-BAT? I had some opportunities to do this ninja-style today. Since moving toward the trigger is ok when following… Should I watch for arousal differently?
  • When you have done a successful setup with the decoy dog, would it be good now to practise everyday walks with the decoy dog? And how would you practise? Parallel walkings?: walking directly toward each other, following the other.
  • Welcome back! I know that you spoke about snuffle park experience, and I cannot remember in which section it was here. I queried it and looked in the online classes that I am in. Can you please re-post the link?
  • This question is about Peanut and Bean. When people, give more attention to Bean, (as a puppy,) how do you balance this for both dogs to avoid jealousy?
  • For people with dogs with shy tendencies, how do you recommend evaluating a helper dog to practice with, (not to adopt,) who can help the dog with the shy tendencies to practice?
  • The best way to introduce two dogs to each other is off leash? What is another one is a shy one?
  • Special topic:
    • What’s the best way to talk to people about their own dogs when they don’t know they need help

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • Snuffle Park – here’s the Karen Bailey video I mentioned.
  • Dr. Susan Friedman is our next guest at the Animal World Superstars interview session for pro members.

  • View the list of upcoming BAT Chats for pro members of ABBA. The first one is this month! Participating by watching, sharing video, etc. is a great way to improve your BAT skills.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Is Dog Aggression or Reactivity Contagious? October 13

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/142278402″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • All of that travel sound exciting! Bean got so big! Can you please talk about day to day difference that you saw between dogs in domestic life in Europe and in the US?
  • When multiple dogs live together how much do their behavior and states of mind influence the other/s? I see that if one of my 2 dogs react to something the other one is likely to do the same. My female also seems to mirror my male dogs emotional state. He doesn’t seem to be as effected by her.
  • When dog is friendly but shy with other dogs, in BAT setups there is no problem greeting the decoy dog as in a while they want to circle to the decoy dog. Is it good to greet the decoy dog in first BAT setup? Shoud parallel walking be done with strange dogs? No greetings?Part II: With a friendly, but shy dog, would it be good to do a paraller walking without greeting (get used to walking with a strange dog) and then continue with BAT kind of sniffing in a large grass area with greeting?
  • I live in a downtown area and my dog is very good about dogs there. When we visit my mom in the country, he barks at other dogs? Why is this and what can I do about it?
  • What do you do if your dog is about to lunge out at another dog or person? (Say you are surprised)
  • Special topics:
    • Importance of warm-up session for BAT set-ups
    • Monthly Challenge: tooth brushing
    • Check out the play video with Bean and Peanut at the end

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Help My Dog Recover After a Fight? October 6

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/141545751″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Could you tell more about Contextual reactivity?
  • What’s the best way to recover after an incident of barking or fighting?
  • My friend and I want to introduce our dogs. What’s the best way to do that? They are not reactive but I want to see what you would advise.
  • Can you talk about the BAT chats a little? What kind of video do you want?
  • What do you think about training conferences that allow dogs to attend? I’m planning on going to one but am not sure I should bring my dog?
  • Special topics:
    • BAT as a way of life, versus a technique for specific training
    • Bean toilet-papering my house
    • Update on Bean and Peanut interactions (with some body language questions for the ABBA Facebook group)

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

  • Dr. Susan Friedman is our next guest at the Animal World Superstars interview session for pro members.

  • View the list of upcoming BAT Chats for pro members of ABBA. Participating by watching, sharing video, etc. is a great way to improve your BAT skills.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Teach ‘Off’ Without a Jump-Sit Chain? September 29

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/140770597″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • It is my understanding that many countries do not crop ears and tails of dogs, while the US still does.

    Can you please share any insights on this?

  • Hi Grisha, would you be able to write the names of the equine trainers/behaviorists that Katie mentions? I tried google, but don’t think I’ve got the spelling right.

  • Can’t seem to teach ‘off’ without ‘chaining’ it…any suggestions?

  • My dog keeps jumping up whenever someone comes home. How do I teach him to stop doing that?

  • NOTE: Be sure to watch for the end for a fun bonus. To ponder: why did I back away with Bean after the recall? There are a few reasons.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

“Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0” Book

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Put eBooks in folders designated here – folder name is related to the ccaps [/php][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the user info that you created. [/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_003_bat2)]

Click here to purchase this eBook on my new site or you can also purchase the paperback.


“BAT 2.0 – nice improvement to an already excellent approach for dealing with reactive dogs” – Ken Ramirez

“BAT 2.0 is a must-read for anyone who has or works with reactive dogs.” – Victoria Stilwell

“Grisha Stewart’s new book is an impressive piece of work, and I highly recommend it to trainers, behaviorists and dog owners who are ready to dive into the deep end to help their dog.” – Patricia McConnell, Ph.D.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_003_bat2)]

Thank you for purchasing this eBook. It’s ready for you to download now!
Please click the format for your book. On a mobile device, you may need to download onto a computer and transfer over to get into a specific type of reader.


Here are some other resources to learn about BAT:


[/s2If]My BAT book for dog reactivity is available! You can order the eBook right on this page for instant access and/or order a signed copy of the paperback edition below. Any leashes that you order with the book will be shipped separately, as soon as they are made.

Purchase the Signed Paperback:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]As an ABBA member, you can use the coupon code BAT2ABBA to save 5% on the purchase price of the print book![/s2If]

Please visit my product store to order a signed copy of the print edition.  Physical products have a separate checkout process from our digital products. Ships worldwide, with FREE US Shipping.

Purchase the eBook:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_003_bat2)]Thank you for order the eBook. The download links are at the top of this page. [/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_003_bat2)]Please use the buttons at the bottom to place your order. If you have a grishastewart.com login, please sign in first. [/s2If]You may need to refresh the page to see the download links. You will also have a link to this page on your My Account page (upper right when you are logged in).

eBook Formats: You should be able to read the book on pretty much any device. You’ll get access to all of these file types with your purchase.

  • MOBI (Amazon Kindle device and apps)
  • EPUB (Nook, iBooks, Google books, etc.)
  • PDF (Adobe on your computer, iBooks, etc.)

Other Languages

What is the BAT 2.0 Book About?

Excerpt
Click for a short excerpt from the book

It’s an in-depth look into how to use Behavior Adjustment Training to manage and rehabilitate aggression, frustration, and fear. It’s also a great way to socialize puppies.

BAT 2.0 is a very different technique than the original BAT. Although it still has some elements in common, I have changed it to give more control to the dogs, while making the technique easier for people to understand and use. It’s about 300 pages. For visual learners, there are lots of great Lili Chin drawings, including an 8-page color insert of illustrations.

This is not a second edition of the first book, but rather, a whole new book. As you see by the chapter titles, it is based on some of the material in the first book and it should replace the first book in your library, but there’s so much new information that it is officially a new book. Practically every line was rewritten in most chapters.

Click to order a signed paperback in my store for physical products. Order the eBook below on this page.
  1. Understanding BAT: Key Concepts
  2. BAT Dog Returns: Peanut’s Lessons for Me
  3. Quick Fixes: Safety and Management Essentials
  4. How to See Trouble Before It Starts
  5. Leash Skills for Freedom and Safety
  6. BAT Set-ups for Reactivity
  7. Up Close and Tight Spaces: Mark and Move
  8. Troubleshooting BAT Set-Ups
  9. Surprise: Sudden Environmental Contrast
  10. BAT on Everyday Walks
  11. Love Thy Neighbor: Fence Fighting
  12. “Who Is It?” Teaching Your Dog to Enjoy Guests
  13. BAT for Puppy Socialization
  14. For Trainers and Behaviorists: Using BAT with Clients
  15. Conclusion
  • Appendix 1: Clicker Training Foundations
  • Appendix 2: Other Techniques that use Functional Reinforcers
  • Appendix 3: For Trainers and Behaviorists
  • Appendix 4: Trainers and Clients Share Their Experiences with BAT
  • Glossary

Please note: Thank you for purchasing your own copy, and for using my website! eBooks are for use on your devices only. It is illegal (and just mean to authors and publishers) to share or sell the files with others.

[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the user info that you created. [/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_003_bat2)]

Click here to purchase this eBook on my new site or you can also purchase the paperback.

[/s2If]

Reviews

BAT 2.0 – nice improvement to an already excellent approach for dealing with reactive dogs

– Ken Ramirez, author of Animal Training: Successful Animal Management Through Positive Reinforcement and Executive Vice-President and Chief Training Officer of Karen Pryor Clicker Training

Grisha Stewart’s new book is an impressive piece of work, and I highly recommend it to trainers, behaviorists and dog owners who are ready to dive into the deep end to help their dog. Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 (BAT 2.0) is a comprehensive and detailed approach to working with “fear, frustration, and aggression in dogs”. No matter what one’s field, I always am impressed by people who continually re-evaluate their perspectives and advice, and I love that BAT 2.0 resulted from Grisha sitting back and asking what worked about BAT 1.0, and what could be better.

– Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., author of The Other End of the LeashFeisty Fido, I’ll Be Home Soon (separation anxiety), Feeling Outnumbered (multi dog households), and many other books.

BAT 2.0 is a must-read for anyone who has or works with reactive dogs. For years, dogs all over the world have benefited from the successful philosophies and empowering techniques in BAT, but Grisha Stewart has taken it to the next level. A clear appreciation for the canine experience and easy to follow, practical techniques is what makes BAT 2.0 so beneficial for dogs that experience frustration, anxiety or fear in any social situation.

Stewart gives control back to the dog allowing a delicate balance of freedom, the ability to make choices and safety. The results speak for themselves. Dogs that were once reactive now become more confident because Stewart gives them the life skills they need to cope more successfully in a social environment. I highly recommend BAT 2.0 to anyone who is struggling with a reactive dog or who wants to gain a better understanding of their canine companion.

Victoria Stilwell, star of the television show, “It’s Me Or the Dog” and author of “It’s Me or the Dog: How to Have the Perfect Pet,” “Train Your Dog Positively,” and “Fat Dog Slim”

I have enjoyed every chapter, every page and every line of the book. I think it is not only original, but breaking new ground in that it strikes a blow for ethical ways of training. I hope it will spread around the world.

I love the pedagogical approach of this book and the focus on how to install a feeling of control in a dog’s life, all in all a fundamental recipe if you want your dog to feel safe and happy. It also adds an ability for dogs to predict events, which further strengthens its self-worth and being in control in relevant life situations. Keeping a distance to what triggers the dog and gradually come closer to it – another dog, a human or whatever the dog reacts to – is a training method with documented good results.

What I especially like in BAT 2.0 is something which is often overlooked in dog training, and that is how to use naturally occurring reinforcers: A method based on the “Premack’s principle”, or the relativity theory of reinforcement. Grisha does a great job of explaining how to use this in dog training.

The chapter “BAT for Puppy Socialization” earns special mention. It is simply excellent! In my opinion everyone who has a puppy, is getting a puppy, or is just interested in how to take care of puppies, should read and learn from this. In fact, it could be a separate book.

The BAT 2.0 book is a star among training concepts and Grisha Stewart has such a nice way of making everything easy to understand. Add her sense of humor to the topic and you have a book that is hard to put down.

Anders Hallgren, Animal behaviorist, dog psychologist, Psychologist Msc (Sweden)

When I ask behavior professionals, “What are your eyes for?” they enthusiastically reply, “To see!” But when I ask, “What is your behavior for?” conference rooms fall silent. In BAT 2, Stewart provides the essential answer to this all-important question: Behavior is to have an effect, that is, to be effective.  By safely allowing dogs more control over their own outcomes, especially in challenging conditions where fearful, frustrated and aggressive behavior is most likely, caregivers will be more successful shaping independent, competent, confident companions.

– Susan G. Friedman, PH.D., www.behaviorworks.org

Grisha Stewart’s updated version of BAT is easy to understand with wonderful illustrations and pictures to help the reader visualize the process. One of the things I like most about this book is the attention paid to reading dogs for signs of stress in order to keep the dog as comfortable as possible during setups.

– Emily Larlham, dog trainer, seminar presenter, and host of the Kikopup YouTube Channel (USA)

BAT 2.0 shows that Grisha is continually evaluating and adjusting her behavior modification recipes. She has made great steps forward in her quest to help the emotional well-being of dogs.

– Terry Ryan, dog trainer; seminar presenter; and author of Coaching People to Train Their Dogs (also comes as a DVD course), The Toolbox for Building a Great Family Dog, and many more books and DVDs (USA)

As a clicker trainer I highly value creativity. I love it every time a trainer uses the laws of learning in new and creative ways that results in better ways of dog training. What Grisha has done with BAT is just that. I find BAT to be a wonderful supplement to clicker training when working with pet dogs. The method combines operant and classical conditioning with a deep knowledge of the dog´s natural language and behavior. And even though BAT is grounded in hard science, Grisha has a way of explaining things so clear and simple that everybody can understand it – and do it.

– Morten Egtvedt, dog trainer, author, and founder of Canis Clickertraining Academy (Norway)

Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 is unique–a living document detailing the evolution of a very effective intervention from the experience of many practitioners. I loved the practicality of this book, as well as Grisha Stewart’s dedication to giving dogs a voice in their own development! This is must-reading for those working with dog reactivity in its many forms.

The more I engage BAT 2.0 techniques with clients the more organic it becomes. And the ‘aha’ moments when they see how quickly their dog responds to the freedom of choice…can’t thank you enough, Grisha. You’ve made a tremendous difference in opening minds to a new way of being with their canine companions.
  • Wendy Dahl, MA, CBATI (Seattle Dog Trainer)

I just want to say I loved the first BAT book. I couldn’t imagine how it could be made better. Finally diving into the new BAT book and just WOW Grisha Stewart-person…WOW! So clear, so well put together /written. BRAVO! So thankful it really is easier for the people and better for the dogs.

– Kelly Keeney, CBATI, CPDT (NJ dog trainer)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_003_bat2)]

Click here to purchase this eBook on my new site or you can also purchase the paperback.

[/s2If]

Theresa McKeon (TAGteach) Recording

How Do I Avoid Creating a Bark/Quiet Behavior Chain? September 22

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/140116285″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • “Shh be quiet.” I am advance planning before training. I am concerned about behaviour chains. As in a dog working out I get reinforced
    for being quiet on the Shh cue and I can make the Shhh cue happen by barking. Tips on avoiding this please?
  • During a BAT setup is staring from the student dog at the decoy dog
    an ok thing (because she might eventually disengage on her own?) or a not so good thing (because she might bark)? Lucy wants to stand and stare and will sometimes disengage. Perhaps if the line is so fine that kissy
    noise or Mime could excite too much then I can assume I’m too close to the other dog…?
    What are your thoughts ?
  • I went over some topics of my own:
    • Contextual reactivity
    • Why we want to avoid the label of “aggressive dog” or “shy dog”
    • Rant: Socialization as something we DO to the dog versus an opportunity we create

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Is Putting a Fist Down the Dog’s Throat Positive Training? September 17

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/139619950″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • What if you have to put pressure on the leash to “lead” them away?
  • I recently took my reactive puppy to a supposed “positive reinforcement” trainer because he said that he was experienced handling reactivity. However, he told me that if she ever tried to bite him (she has not tried to bite anyone, btw), he would allow her to bite his gloved hand, then force his fist down her throat. Is this normal? I feel like I should find a different trainer.
  • My puppy is great when walking in busy city. But when walking in our own quiet street, she barks and jumps when seeing a person or a dog. This barking begins as soon as the puppy sees the person and hard to make it stop 🙂
  • How is Peanut doing? (In answer, I talked about Peanut’s food intolerance results from the cool Nutriscan test)
  • I went over some topics of my own:
    • Zig-Zag version of Mark and Move for frustration, predation, and generally pulling on leash
    • Rant about how “positive” trainers should apply empowerment principles and maximize reinforcement / avoid positive punishment when looking to change human behavior

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do You Do Mark and Move for Frustration? September 15

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/139392027″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • If your dog likes to chase e.g. birds, deers, and you keep him on a long leash (10m). What should be done when the dog sees the prey? Should you give him a cue like “sit”, “wait” or recall? Or how to practise using the long leash that the dog begins to listen the owner? What if dog gets too excited and can´t listen, so you can´t get any better but of course the dog can´t chase (long leash).
  • With BAT with your own dogs, what types of responses to triggers have been intellectual responses where they make a choice to react in a certain way because they have learned that this achieves their desired outcome ? And what responses do you feel were involuntary responses, like a reflex action to a trigger ? And your thoughts on BAT for reflex actions and intellectual responses.
  • what is the cost of the on line webinar you sent out notification about?
  • I went over some topics of my own:
    • Play time with Bean
    • Zig-Zag version of Mark and Move for frustration, predation, and generally pulling on leash

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Can I Help My Older Dog Have a Better Life? September 10

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/138893706″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • I went over some topics of my own:
    • Videos of puppy Bean playing with his (ridgeless) Rhodesian Ridgeback friend (regular speed and slow motion). I talked through the body language and discussed self-handicapping during dog play.
    • Training and enrichment for senior dogs.
    • Videos of Bean camping with his dog friend Lily.
    • Rant: dog collars high on the neck are ‘effective’ because they’re painful.
  • Which camera do you use?
  • Do you see pieces come off your antler chews?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Are You Accidentally Punishing Your Dog’s Recall? September 8

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/138672083″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • If your dog freezes when another dog comes by, you should call your dog away? I sometimes see dogs that sit or lie down when we come by and the owner can’t get them to move. Should the owners call the dogs away? Those are calming signals (sit and down)?
  • I talked about several topics:
    • Introducing my dogs to my friend’s dog for a camping trip, building up to off leash interaction with BAT.
    • Functional assessments (antecedent, behavior, consequence) and how I’m using that to work on my puppy chasing our cat.
    • How dogs will stay for attention and petting even when it’s annoying or scary.
    • Accidental punishment when you meant to give a reinforcer, and how that often sabotages coming when called.
    • Training all the time in little bits vs. set training times.
  • When we practice for desensitization near cars, Lucy, who is good with a relaxed leash, speeds up once the car passes us. Do you think this behavior points to being too close to the cars?
  • This discussion about the cat is very helpful. I was taught to build duration but that’s requires the animals to be still Which doesn’t happen often.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Why is My Dog Scooting Her Rear on the Floor? September 3

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/138226584″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Whoa. Fixed action patterns. Where can I read more about those?
  • I just watched your off-leash-hiking video from a few years ago, it was helpful. Do you have any suggestions for keeping your dog closer while hiking off-leash? Sunrise loves to take off at high speeds to explore – thankfully her recall is pretty good. What can we do to keep her closer?
  • Is whining always sign of a stress?
  • When your dog´s tail is wagging but body is stiff, this is good time to call your dog? Why is the tail wagging? 🙂 Usually when the tail is wagging, it is a good sign.
  • Can you please speak a little about different countries’ practices vis-á-vis of spay and neuter, and how we can find out more information? How is it that intact male dogs do not fight?
  • #‎bat‬ . dog reactive dog, goes through all stages of BAT and becomes great friend playmate with 1st stooge dog, who made play invitations. 2nd stooge dog weeks later. progress Through BAT stages, all set ups, over weeks. Get to a certain distance, and reactive dog just looses interest in other dog. Just wants to play with handler, toys etc. Stooge dog very calm, and relaxed, but has no interest
  • What do I do if my dog is rubbing his butt along the floor?
  • I talked about crate training and the All Done cue.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

(When) Are You Neutering Your Puppy? September 1

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/138013928″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • You said that he is intact. Do you plan to neuter him? At what age?
  • BAT with Lucy in her wire crate in the car. (She’s very reactive to dogs in the street.)
    I’m turning around…giving her treat for quiet. Moving the cover back and forth when I can…could you share some more ideas about how to work with this? Thanks!
  • We have an intact adult mini-poodle in our building. The dogs appears to have fear and reactivity issues. The male owner uses a retractable leash. The dog lunges out at other dogs and at owners who pick-up their dogs whenever the dogs sees dogs or people. What could be a tactful and gracious way to manage this? No one else in the building is taking action, although this is stressful for the mini-poodle and all other building dogs… including mine.
  • When a dog is trigger stacked or a situation has occurred where he/she gets stressed, what are the best tools to help the dog relax again and reclaim balance? Sometimes it happens that the trigger or the situation is no longer there, but the dog still feels stressed.
  • You mentioned in a previous broadcast that temperament is generally “set” by the age of 3. If a person were looking for a good family dog age 3 or older through a shelter, what type of tests or traits would help them make a good decision? (Family = small children.)
  • Reviewing focus “watch me” and Lucy stares at the treat. How do I get her attention away from the treat and back to looking at me? Or does that even matter?
  • (RE Find It in the trigger stacking question) It would seem like the dogs would still know where the food came from due to scent on the food. Were there any theories on why it was more relaxing if they didn’t see the food scattered by the handler?
  • I talked about the PetCube and how I used it to stop Peanut from barking at Bean while I was out at dinner.
  • I went over a video of Bean playing with some small dogs, and how the trainers running it do a great job facilitating confident players.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Does a Variable Schedule Strengthen Behavior? August 27

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/137510676″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • It is a shelter’s mission to get dog adopted.
    Would you recommend that shelters or some other profit or non-profit organization counsel people in the realistic costs associated with adopting / owning a dog? Training, food, toys, crate, veterinary visits, exercise etc. Or, is is better to leave it to chance that people can afford these things as they come up?
  • Can you geek out just a little more regarding the difference between resistance to extinction and keeping a behavior strong? This is my first time discussing them as different concepts. I guess I had somehow inferred that the way to make a behavior most likely to happen was to move to a variable reinforcement schedule. That’s suddenly been called into question in my mind now.
  • Can you talk about or suggest some idea’s on how to motivate a dog to play or eat treats when not motivated by either. Yes I know a lot of it is the dognis stressed or overexcited, but how do you start to teach the dog to play?
  • What is the range of the pace of progress you have seen for dogs who start their first setups at very far (100 yards plus) distances? What is the range of final outcomes you have seen? What types of factors impact the pace of progress and outcome?
  • If you have a dog that is showing some aggressive behavior around other dogs but it tends to happen more when the owner is close to the dog. Would you do BAT to help this dog? And would you handle things any differently? Almost as if the dog acts like she is possessive of the handler.
  • Can I have suggestions on how to extinguish a superstitious behavior? I’d like to have sit and down as a calming behavior but my poodle has so much energy that I get a constantly wiggling butt. [Supersititious behavior is butt wiggling, fidgeting back feet and front feet. He thinks excitement is part of the cue]
  • You have said that you set up a walking group via facebook to help socialize your dogs. How do you set this up without getting handlers that have no clue about dogs body language and training in general. Or how do you set these up without getting a group of dogs that are just not a good mix for each other?

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Can I Ask My Trainer to Not Work My Dog? August 25

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/137300960″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Is CC needed or is Mark and Move ->”find it” enough for a dog barking other dogs if you can´t do BAT setups, just ninjaBAT? With CC I mean Bar open-Bar closed -technique where you feed the dog when he sees the trigger.
  • This is a question for working with a private trainer:
    So, if my dog has issues with reactivity, and a trainer wanted to work privately in my home, it would be acceptable for me to say in advance, “I would like you to please show me how to do the technique, but I prefer that you do not approach my dog. My dog would be too scared and he would be too overwhelmed to learn.”
  • Part 2: Can I ask a private trainer to meet my dog and me outside in a neutral area, if my dog has issues related to reactivity? Would that be acceptable, if i know from experience that my dog would feel less comfortable if a new trainer enters our home, a space where my dog is comfortable?
  • Do you think the Balance Harness posted in our online group by… I think Lenni… is strong enough for occasional lungers? I’m using the Freedom Harness now but I think it might rub a bit under my dog’s arms.
  • Our puppy is doing great with everything except other dogs when passing by in our walks or in dog events. She can M&M with a distance. But when other dogs come closer, she does not want to M&M or recall, she just watches the other dogs until barks very boldly. She plays with other dogs weekly and is having fun. Should continue work with a distance?
  • BAT BOOK, second edition.
    When will this be published? Where will we be able to purchase it?
  • Once my reactive puppy warms up to guests in the home, she will bounce, nip, play-bow, and yap at them. I think she is trying to initiate play, but it’s understandably annoying and potentially scary to my guests. Why does she do this? What’s the best way to teach her to behave politely around new people?
  • I don’t currently have opportunities to do real setups with dogs, and Ninja-BAT is rarely an option when my dog’s threshold is still very far. However, BAT has helped me see that my dog has far more triggers than just dogs. If we spend time on our walks doing Ninja BAT to people, is she also building skills of “how to BAT” that will help us when we can eventually work with dogs?
  • I know a mishandled positive interrupter can become part of a chained behavior. What are some good ways to avoid this?
  • Is peanut also still on a 100% reinforcement schedule for recall?
  • Have you trained with Bean SECs? Could this be useful with noise plays from the phone (e.g. sound of dog barking) and people walking by your yard? Anything sudden you can think of?
  • I´m now doing CC/M&M again with my dog when we get out of the car. I do it 10 minutes and then break in the car and another 10 minutes and then we leave. I keep him in a bit tight leash if grass is near. Otherwise more slack. Does this sound a good method? He is eager to go to sniff and bark, but I won´t let him. I reward also all the eye contacts and we walk a bit.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Eric Brad CPDT-KA (Crossover Trainers) Recording

What Can Be Done to Help Dogs with Frustration? August 20

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136848500″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Can you explain more about “frustrated greeters” What typical behaviours do they exhibit? What causes these behaviours? Along with the BAT leash skills & working on one on one greetings, what else can be done to help these dogs? Do you have any videos of the greetings required for these dogs on the site?
    [I started to answer this last Thursday. Today I went over a BAT session with a Rhodesian Ridgeback and Bean.]
  • When working with the people who are training for the CBATI certificate, who do you teach the trainer to use positive reinforcement with the clients, i.e. be good teachers as well as good trainers?
  • Bean was adorable rolling on his back with the toy you gave him in the Q+A on Tuesday.
  • When working with a client whose dog is fearful or reactive, how should a trainer demonstrate, rather then approach the dog or hold the leash which could be too scary or stimulating to the dog? How can an owner explain this request to the trainer?
  • how much staring should you permit in passing another dog on a walk. zen is clearly in the yellow to orange zone. if were to not interfere she would start wagging her tail and want to approach. if I try and move her I have to pull her away. she keeps turning back). I am concerned about the other dog and the staring.
    I worry about trusting other owners if we were to try and greet the other dog
  • part 2
    at the vet’s office, in parking lots etc she walks right by other dogs when needed to get from point a to point b. her staring is the same as with people she is obsessed with. there is part of this that is pure zen behavior and just not normal.
  • I went over some puppy socialization info (handstands and hairdryers).

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Stop Treating So Much? (and more) August 18

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136657777″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Question about the dog events. If the male dogs begin to fight, is it because they are uncomfortable being there among other dogs in the first place (issues with other dogs also outside dog events), or because they are just males that are put too tight space together although no issues with other dogs outside dog events?
  • I feel I am constantly using treats on our walks. I reward walking calmly beside me, giving into leash pressure, offering stopping and waiting with eye contact, I use kibble for the easier things and high value for tougher ones. I am afraid that we are stuck and that I can’t gradually decrease the constant treating. We live in the city with lots of distractions. What are your thoughts on this?
  • Bean is really adorable on the Bosu ball. Was great to see that Peanut can also do different activities with the same ball.Can you please describe the “Honeymoon Period” after adoption that you described in the last Q&A session: What it means and how long the period can be?
  • I want to generalize my question to selecting a dog for temperament once inside a reputable shelter. Many people speak to have lost a dog they loved and cherished after 10-14 years. After 1-4 years of recovery, they are ready are ready to adopt another, but they are not trainers. How do they select for temperament? Shelters need to adopt dogs out and many are not legally allowed to recommend one private over another other then suggesting ADPT or CCPDT lists by zip code.
  • Bean seems to really enjoy sitting at the highest peak of the Bosu ball.Does he do that generally, or is it just during the Q&A?
    I know that some animals like to sit on high peaks to watch activity at home. Would you say that this can be true of certain dogs also?
  • If you have done many successful setups and dog shows no reactivity at all. How do you begin with real life? Not using the survival skills anymore?
  • I went over some videos of Bean – the end of a BAT set-up and some recall training.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

BAT Set-Up Example: Close-Up Work With Bean

This is a video series of the second half of a set-up that I did with Bean. We walked with two dogs, starting out by following them on a trail through the woods. After a while we were able to be closer. This is from the second half, where one of the dog handlers is also filming. Her dog has issues with people, so you’ll see me keep Bean from approaching some of the time.

In this set-up, I am using Mark and Move and transitioning into BAT 2.0 (without prompting). In the early part, I call him away quickly. Initially it was after just a moment of sniffing, but that was before the camera came on.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view these videos, please purchase the BAT 101 course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264725″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264726″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264727″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264728″]

<iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/136264729″ width=”640″ height=”360″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/136264833″ width=”640″ height=”360″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/136264837″ width=”640″ height=”360″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264839″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264841″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264842″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264932″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264934″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136264935″][/s2If]

What Exercises Can You Do With a Senior Dog? August 13

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136228427″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Can you explain more about “frustrated greeters” What typical behaviours do they exhibit? What causes these behaviours? Along with the BAT leash skills & working on one on one greetings, what else can be done to help these dogs? Do you have any videos of the greetings required for these dogs on the site? [I will answer that again next time since only the second half made it into the recording]
  • What exercises can be done on the bosu ball that you had in the last Q & A with an older / larger dog?
  • Would you have an idea about grooming setups? I use the leash to steady Lucy when I’m trimming nails, cleaning ears etc. Afterwards she seems to hold a grudge and doesn’t want me to put her back on the leash to go out. I am trying to be very careful not to pressure her into accepting grooming but she doesn’t love it yet to be sure.
  • Follow up on Spiral from X-pen to teach
    “go- around”,
    “play a fun and enriching game,” and
    “build my dog’s confidence.”–
    TY! This is working out great for my dog. I am glad that we do not have to it away after practice, (like a prop each time,) since we live in a small space and fitting it into a closet it not easy and is very noisy, which would my dog
  • Follow up on adopting for adopters who have had one dog in the recent past who is no longer alive, but who want to adopt from a reputable shelterWould you say that they could:
    1: Spend time learning dog body language to be able to gauge once meeting dogs in the shelter?2: “Foster to adopt” to see if it is a match, before agreeing to adopt the dog?
  • Part 2:
    3:i: possibly interview several force-free, humane, positive trainers
    ii: select a trainer in advance who has experience reading dog body language,
    iii use the trainer as part of the selection process for help in the shelter with many or few available dogs, even if this means more than on visit
    iV work with that trainer once the dog settles inWould this be the process?
  • I went over an on-leash play session with the “leash dance” with Bean and a chihuahua X.

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Should I Put Keep-away on Cue? (and More) August 11

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/136017240″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • If I cue my dog when he is distracted by something, does this mean I reinforce my dog to go the distraction? Am I in fact cuing the chance for my dog to earn reinforcement when my dog is seeking reinforcement away from me? I am rewarding the behaviour of my dog ignoring me? 🙂
  • Would it be good to put keep-away on cue as a fun game, with a dog who wants to play keep-away/chase-me with a toy? Or not to play it at all? Of course you would also teach to retrieve.
  • Hi! I rescued a street dog from Mexico 6 months ago. he has learned that we are the head of the pack and won’t snap towards us, but hasn’t learned that with kids. Any suggestions how to get him to realize that kids are in charge and not him? He will snap but not bite. Not good for sure!
  • Bean is adorable and always looks so happy on YouTube and here. Obviously you have done everything right since you adopted him. Can you please talk about your selection process and advice for the novice adopter? How to evaluate an adoptable dog?
  • Bean is adorable and always looks so happy. If you are not using the x-pen for the spiral game, do you have to put it away and out of sight?
    My understanding is that when one is not using a training prop, the item should be out if sight. Would you agree, or is that too rigid a way of thinking?
    Thank you for all of the help and responses!
  • can you address sniffing as a stress behavior. I know it is usually thought to reduce stress. I am still trying to determine why zen is so obsessed. does she do this because she is stressed or is she so overstimulated that it becomes OCD? this relates to my unanswered facebook post last Saturday

Links I referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

19 Fun-Saving Tips for Festival Dogs

Avoid costumes, especially ones that make a dog uncomfortable or hard for other dogs to recognize.
Avoid costumes, especially ones that make a dog uncomfortable or hard for other dogs to recognize.

We took the dogs to the 6-Mile Creek Whitewater Bluegrass Festival in Alaska this weekend. It was great! I was very happy with how Bean and Peanut did and how the dogs felt about the experience.

It was a bit like a dog park with music, but it worked out well, since the dogs all started to know each other. The surface (river rocks) also discouraged a lot of running and playing, so it was easier for the dogs to stay calm.  There was a lot of space and the dogs were off leash, so they were able to diffuse tension more naturally. Continue reading 19 Fun-Saving Tips for Festival Dogs

Will Training a Dog with Treats Spoil the Dog?

sitting for treatsYou might have read some of the traditional training books or watched a certain tv show that talks about training with treats as if it were a sloppy or mamby-pamby way to train dogs, whereas training with punishment means the dog works with you because they love you. The people who avoid treats just don’t know enough about *how* to train dogs with treats, and I thought I’d write a blog post to give an overview of how to precisely use reinforcers to get reliable dog behavior.
Continue reading Will Training a Dog with Treats Spoil the Dog?

8 Sure-Fire Ways to Shorten Your Dog’s Life

I know some of you just can’t stand that fluffy new puppy who adores you, and want to get rid of her as soon as possible. If you can’t find anyone to take this cute bundle of fur, here’s how you can at least make sure she doesn’t live out her natural life. Unfortunately, most of these also make your neighbors mad at you, but whatever.
Continue reading 8 Sure-Fire Ways to Shorten Your Dog’s Life

What are Quadrants? Applying Learning Theory to Dog Training

There are only two main principles for dog-friendly training.  Give something to get more of a behavior you want. Take something away to stop a behavior you don’t like.

Positive Reinforcement (+R): If you want your dog to repeat a behavior more frequently, reward that behavior in some way.

Negative Punishment (-P): If you want your dog to repeat a behavior less frequently, remove any reward or perceived award for the behavior. This should happen rarely – focus on reinforcement.

Access to anything interesting is a reinforcer
Access to anything interesting is a reinforcer

Think of positive and negative in the addition/subtraction sense.  The counterparts to +R and -P are negative reinforcement (take away an aversive – something painful or unpleasant to the dog – as a reward) and positive punishment (present the dog with something painful or unpleasant for doing something you do not like). Continue reading What are Quadrants? Applying Learning Theory to Dog Training

How to Train a Dog To Come When Called

This dog's recall is so strong it's actually flying!
This dog’s recall is so strong it’s actually flying!

Training your dog to come to you on cue is one of the kindest things you can do for your dog. Knowing that your dog will return whenever you want her to allows you both freedom to play and go wherever — within reason — like the park or even a dog-friendly festival.

Training a recall, along with a solid “emergency down” may save your dog’s life one day, so it’s worth putting some time into training her to respond quickly. Continue reading How to Train a Dog To Come When Called

What is Clicker Training? How Do You Use It to Train a Dog?

Box Clicker
Box Clicker and Bean

When dolphin trainers want to get a perfect jump from their charges, they don’t put a leash on the dolphin, ask it to jump, then ‘correct’ the dolphin for not jumping and manually put it through the jumping motions. For one thing, the dolphin’s body isn’t well-suited to a leash. For another, it would be difficult, if not impossible, to physically manipulate the dolphin into a jump. Finally, the dolphin would get back at the trainer — probably dousing her with a big splash of water or tossing her out of the pool (a favorite tactic of killer whales)! Continue reading What is Clicker Training? How Do You Use It to Train a Dog?

How Much Fear is Normal for a Puppy? (and More) August 6

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and shown here. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135595606″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Part 1: It is so interesting to watch Peanut and Bean both in the Q&A and on your Youtube channel.Would you say that Bean barking at the vacuum and at the lawnmower etc. in your videos are normal puppy behaviors at his age?At what puppy age would you say that these types of reactions were beyond a normal scope of reactions?
    What about in a dog over the age of 2 years old?
  • Part 2: What might you recommend for a dog who is fearful of these things? Perhaps the owners just adopted an adult dog and s/he indicates that s/he is not comfortable interacting with these objects / sounds / new people / dogs?
  • I implemented adding the box & find it with a treat to run away.
    Turns out the issue is that he does not like the taste of the toothpaste, (3 diff. brand.) When I use creme cheese he is fine with it. I will email some Veterinary Dentists for possible recipes for toothpaste that I can make. Do you have any other suggestions?
  • What do you do if an off leash dog runs at you and you are scared? Will acting scared make it more likely to attack?
  • How would you teach your dog to do more of a casual “hi there” then move on greet as opposed to a intense sniff the person for five minutes one?
  • Grisha gave an update on training with puppy Bean

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Long Does It Take to Add a Cue? (and More) August 4

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135398140″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Lucy is clueing into setups before she even gets out of the car. Should I change locations often for BAT setups to prevent this scenario?
  • So interesting watching your Q&A as you work with Peanut and Bean in real-time.
    If you say, “Go Around”, as Bean walks his spiral, at what point would you think that you could say “Go around!” and have him be able to do it?Would this change from cue to cue and from situation to situation?
  • Bean acts so funny behind you during the Q&A’s. In one, rolling on his back.If a person was not planning on ever doing any competition ever with their dog, would you think that the essential cues listed in your training video (this site,) would suffice?For example is there a reason to teach ‘heel,’ if one can do BAT leash work in all situations?
  • I have given more control to my dog e.g. by letting him decide which way to walk at least in one our daily walks. He made a decision e.g. not to walk where the other dogs are barking. When telling this to my friends, they do not understand how I can let my dog control and be the boss. How much control can you give to your dog? I like giving my dog choices in various situations.
  • We had a tremendous success near a unofficial agility competition area. I followed my dog, he made great choices and we entered the competition area with other dogs for a while! I almost cried 🙂 My dog air sniffed the other dogs and went a bit towards the other dogs that the leash tightened. I did M&M. Is that correct? I petted my dog and then he did a couple barks. Why is that?
  • Based on a response from last week’s Q&A, why would one observe more people in NYC using traditional training methods than in other parts of the country?
  • Why dogs get zoomies? What is the meaning of zoomies?
  • Could you demonstrate how to shape interaction/play with a toy?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Monthly Challenge: Cooperative Blood Draw / Injection for Dogs

Breeders and caretakers should teach specific vet care skills – early and often!

Click to learn how to do the Monthly Challenge.

Note: August, 2015 is sponsored by Dogwise.com! Two randomly selected ABBA members who do the Challenge will get a $20 Dogwise gift card. Use hashtag #ABBAaugust2015 in your Facebook posts.

Your dog can actively cooperate in a blood draw, not just hold still with restraint.

What does your situation look like now?

  • Does your vet tech hold your dog down so another technician can get to a vein?
  • Does your dog bite the vet tech, or try?
  • Does your dog shiver and shake from fear at the veterinarian’s office?

Whatever can be changed, come up with a goal for that and apply most of your pet’s calories and other reinforcers toward achieving it. Follow the guidelines of the Monthly Challenge to keep yourself motivated.

Tip: Teach your dog a More Please Signal, which is a way to say that he is interested in continuing the training.

Tip: Get a syringe (with no needle or with a cap on it) from your vet’s office or a drug store. Training using counterconditioning: just after you do something to your dog, he gets a fabulous treat/toy/massage. Start small and gradually end up being able to do a full blood draw.

Tip: Have your vet use a butterfly needle (the smallest kind). They can often take blood from the back leg as well, if that’s easier for your dog.

Here is a video clip of Peanut doing a jugular blood draw and another clip of training that we did right afterwards (these appear for members only). Whenever you do the actual draw, immediately follow that up with more of the training that you did in the first place. So 99 times out of a hundred, there’s no actual needle stick. Notice that because of the training, he is willing to go back for more. This video was shot one month after training began, and I trained about 3-5 times a week for maybe 10-15 minutes each time. Before the training, he would shiver and quake. And he’s 12 years old, so senior dogs can do this, too![s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135269415″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135269416″]

I trained for a jugular draw, but you may be better off training for the back leg.

General steps I used (use more if your dog needs it):

  • Car wash (teaching the dog to come between your legs, facing forward). I just lured, starting with treats in both hands and then in just the final hand to feed in front. Click and treat right as the dog gets in position, and make sure he exits out the back, to avoid tangling and also avoid moving toward the vet afterwards.
  • Car wash then became my More Please Signal. If he got into that position then I touched his neck with the syringe, then treated. Just bringing the syringe out got him a treat at first.
  • My husband practiced doing car wash.
  • Once that was going well, I became the ‘vet tech’ and pretended to do blood draws, adding more pressure from the syringe sometimes. Also practice holding your finger to where the blood would be coming out. Build up to doing that for 10 seconds before releasing the dog on cue.
  • We switched and John was the vet tech.
  • I practiced in different rooms, especially where the blood draw would take place. I was lucky to have an in-home vet, but you also should practice at your vet’s office.
  • On the day of the blood draw, we did several warm-ups with the vet without a needle.
  • The only time you may actually need to restrain at all is when the needle is in and also you need to keep your finger on the injection site for about 5 seconds afterwards, while you wait for the blood to clot. But with training, your dog is doing most of the restraint himself.

[/s2If]

Blood draw information:

Useful videos from the Member Library:

 

Should I Stop Dog Obedience Training to Work on BAT Leash Skills? (and More) July 30

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/134969716″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Do you use a lot of fake dogs (big toy dogs) in training? And in what kind of situations?
  • You are a public figure and a dog trainer, educating the public. If you were in a major city, SF, Chicago or NYC for example, and you saw an owner doing traditional training with a dog or puppy in a public place would you offer advice and how would you do it?
  • It is so interesting to see Peanut chewing on different toys in many of your videos. Is this common for adult dogs?
    How do you keep him interested in these toys? Does it relieve stress and / or boredom?
  • how do leash handling skills differ when using the symmetry line for two handed attachment. you demonstrate the bow wrapping up of extra lead in the walking video. I can’t seem to achieve this with the double leash. I do seem to need leash to let out in both hands though. what is the best way to handle this?
  • I’m working on confidence issues and loose leash with Munich, my doberman. Should I forego regular obedience training: stays, directed jumps, heeling, etc? Also, I use a flirt pole and ball fetch as supplemental exercise/reward or is it too exciting for a dog that I want to learn impulse control and calmness?
  • (follow-up) where would you put the coupler?
  • My older dog has advanced greatly around other dogs. Now I can move him pass other dogs with a treat in my hand. Just standing aroung other dogs with some distance, he looks at the other dogs and offers me head turn with eye contact which I mark and then throw treats to the ground. So he is still in a working mode with the eye contact? We should get away from this working mode? 🙂
  • My dog loves to chew on bully sticks or edible Nylabones or play games with his boxes when food is hidden or food puzzles. He is not interested in any toys, balls, is afraid of squeakers. My understanding is if a puppy is not used to playing with toys early on, hard to teach these skills later. Could you please comment?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How to Train a Dog to Stop Pulling on the Leash

A loose leash dog walk is a joy! Check out this streaming DVD for tips.
A loose leash dog walk is a joy! Check out this streaming DVD for tips.

[Click here to see some great custom leashes!]

If your dog pulls on the leash, then the walk is neither healthy for your dog nor relaxing for you. It’s also a sign that you and your dog are not paying attention to each other — it takes two to pull, after all.

Walks with your dog can feel like walking meditation, not a battle! One wonderful thing is that if the human learns not to pull on the leash, the dog can learn much more easily! Please learn about the BAT leash skills in this article [click here] or the BAT Leash Skills webinar to help set your dog up for success. It’s very helpful to start out your dog’s training by first teaching yourself not to pull.

Continue reading How to Train a Dog to Stop Pulling on the Leash

BAT Leash Skills – How to Stop Pulling Your Dog

Your dog can walk ahead of you, as long as the leash is loose.
With BAT, we prefer a long leash and a harness, instead of a flat collar.

Related:

BAT should be a dance between the dog and the person. The human is the one who knows the plan for the dance, but the dog is the one who has the understanding of rhythm.

Continue reading BAT Leash Skills – How to Stop Pulling Your Dog

July 2015 Pro Q&A Expert: Louise Ginman (Cooperative Care & Zoo Training)

Could You Talk About Ninja BAT? (and More) July 28

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/134768111″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Does bean spend time is a crate?
  • How is peanut dealing with bean spending time with you? This is the period of adjustment I find so exhausting.
  • Have you taken Bean and Peanut on a walk together yet? If not, when are you going to walk them together?
  • Could you tell about ninja BAT?
  • Toys: I am curious what Peanut is chewing on in the videos? Bean has one also, but it must be great for an adult dog to like it so much. Also, how does Peanut know the toy Bean has is exactly the same? (You said that this is how to keep Peanut from stealing Bean’s toys when they are together.)
  • Unfortunately my puppy has started to bark at people and dogs walking by. When we are at a distance sniffing and walking, puppy can look at calmly and make good choices. When the people and dogs suddenly walk closer or walk by, she begins to bark. She doesn’t move away, she jumps and barks until I cue her away with kissy noise. How to handle this?
  • About survival skills. My dog can’t do focused walk or “find it” when seeing another dog coming by and we have no room to move away. He wants to see the other dog. Is this breed issue, stress issue or not practised enough? So LAT has helped us when passing by other dogs closely. Also warning my dog before he sees a dog, makes my dog more aroused. I have not been able to use the warning.
  • To my question about the puppy barking: I have now used Mark (when we are too close just for looking the trigger) and then called away and moved away. Before any barking.

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How NOT to Pick the Wrong Rescue Dog for You

This post is inspired by the story of two friends of mine, who just adopted a dog for a week on a ‘trial basis’. If you’re looking for a shelter or rescue dog to adopt, I’d love to help you avoid the mistakes they made.

First off, I want to say that I’m all for getting rescue dogs. I have rescue dogs and I probably always will.

There are tons of great rescue dogs that need forever homes. In fact, I just flew down to the Seattle area to adopt Bean from Welfare for Animals Guild, because at the moment I was looking, there were no reputable rescues in my area with puppies available. [update: Bean videos can be found here]

Continue reading How NOT to Pick the Wrong Rescue Dog for You

How to Avoid Dog Bites (plus Be More Fun and Less Annoying)

_MG_2445Do you love to pet your dog? Does your dog love it too? Are you sure?

Here’s a family safety video with a way to ask your dog if he or she likes the way you are petting. I call it the 5-Second Rule, and every person who interacts with a dog, cat, or even horse should know it, because it’s excellent bite prevention and also just basic polite manners! Teaching it to children will avoid bites and also teach the concept of setting their own boundaries for safe interactions.

Continue reading How to Avoid Dog Bites (plus Be More Fun and Less Annoying)

Say Please Protocol (or “Using Real Life Rewards”)

How does your dog ask for what he wants? Does she get dinner by barking? Does he get through the door by shoving past you?

_MG_1558In any home, whether it has dogs in it or not, good manners are appreciated. Things like pushing past your parents to rush outside or bugging them for candy while they were working were probably not allowed when you were young and they show that your relationship with your dog is not as strong as it could be. There’s no need to yell at your dog when he does things like bolt out the door or bark, whine, or jump for attention. What you need to do is teach your dog how ask for what he wants or needs in a way that fits with your family.

As with all of the training methods that we recommend, we want you to set your dog up for success. Cue or show the dog what you want her to do (in words that she knows or by reinforcing behaviors you like), and ignore the tricks you don’t want in your dog’s toolbox for getting what he wants. You get what you pay for with dogs. If it works for them, they’ll keep doing something, even if you don’t like it.

Continue reading Say Please Protocol (or “Using Real Life Rewards”)

Resource Guarding – How to Teach Your Dog to Share

dog-eating-flowers
Dogs may guard anything!

Does your dog growl at you when you approach his food bowl? Is your puppy possessive about toys and rawhides? Does he snap at you when you even step near him when he’s got a bone? Does your dog bare her teeth when you approach the couch? If not, you’re lucky! Read through this information and start working with your puppy or dog now, to keep him in the blissful state of loving your approach to his food bowl or other prized possessions.

Continue reading Resource Guarding – How to Teach Your Dog to Share

How Do You Teach Your Dog to Say Hi and Move On? (and More) July 23

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/134329732″][/s2If]

Dog training and care questions in this video:

  • Peanut and the puppy playing together is too adorable. I am trying to use the Premack principle when brushing my dogs teeth. He loves playing with his food boxes from the puppy class last year. How can I transfer that reward for allowing me to brush even for a second or two?
  • why is peanut outside?
  • how do you get a dog used to people running past them and the dog not alerting towards them as if they would like to run towards them.
  • Should LAT be taught for every dog? For certain worrisome situations where increasing distance can´t be possible?
  • with another dog I carried a mat. would you recommend that. I did the Leslie McDevitt place concept ‘place’
  • how does look at that integrate with BAT. I did leslie’s program
  • Asking about the Voyce collar Joey spoke of. Would this collar be of use to evaluate stress and anxiety in a dog, or would a simple heart rate monitor be as effective?
  • You mentioned that the NEW Symmetry Line that you sell line has a brass clip and how this effects conductivity. Can you please elaborate on what this means.
  • Did the rescue organization place a chip in Bean before you adopted him?
  • How would you teach your dog to do more of a casual “hi there” then move on greet as opposed to a intense sniff the person for five minutes one
  • How to get success in puppy class? That the puppy gets positive experience and less stress. We are bringing the relaxation mat with us. What else?
  • Grisha talked about how she could have helped Bean relax more at last night’s party at her house.

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do You Get Clients to Bring Treats on a Walk? (and More) July 21

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/134139053″][/s2If]

The audio in this video gets out of sync partway through. Sorry about that!

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • Train the dog you have today. Could you tell more about this!
  • Bean is adorable. Did you speak about the Adaptil collar yet? I am slightly behind.
  • can you please demonstrate how to us the symmetry line with two points of attachment, how could I use it with a head halter and front attachment of the balance harness? would this be the best transition to just the front and back attachments. I see how it would not put pressure on the heck if used with the halter? would you attach it there and slide it through the front ring?when demonstrating the symmetry line please show both methods for two points of attachment. one is as a long line and the other double reins it would appear from the pictures.
  • My dog is excited when opening the car door. Should I wait my dog to relax and drive off? Not to let my dog out every time? So he can not anticipate that he is going for a nice walk. When he anticipates, he offers me a “relaxing” position when he really is not relaxed but just offering a wanted position to get to the walk.
  • About the Adaptil collor for bean. Can you please speak about it’s use and any studies that have proven it’s effectiveness? My understanding is that it varies from dog to dog and it is hard to judge if it is having a calming effect.
  • I have a client who refuses to take treats on a walk. His wife will carry treats, but he won’t. Do you have any suggestions to get more compliance?
  • Grisha also talked about what she’s realizing from having a new puppy again

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Off-leash BAT Set-Up with Peanut (and More) July 16

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/133680511″][/s2If]

The audio in this video gets out of sync partway through. Sorry about that!

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • When coming out of the car, I let my dog “go sniff”. When he sniffs, he barks. When he marks, he barks. When he walks, he barks. I did previously CC for everything in the environment my dog looked for more intensively and it did help. Now my dog is barking again. Should begin again with CC? How to help my dog?
  • I am wondering if I am missing something in ways to get zen’s attention when her head is in the ground. I can’t get it up to even make eye contact. this is my biggest issue in moving on when she darts to odor.
    I have tried, treats, squeaky toy, verbal command, leash techniques, if she darts as I am saying no she does not respond she gets the jackpot reward, the odor.
  • When training BAT for environmental triggers- bikes, golf carts, lawn mowers etc. that fit into a broad category like moving objects, is it ok to reward calming signals, head turns for whatever comes? As opposed to one bike or single golf cart at a time? I seem to be getting pretty good results but want to make sure. Also, Sophia Yin suggested treating “high” so the dogs look at you…do you ?
  • When we arrive at a place I leave zen in the car. she goes nuts jumping around with excitement even though she is belted in. I don’t know how to prevent this other than taking her out first with me or seeing if a food type toy might distract her. she jumps around like a maniac. suggestions?
  • Follow-up to first question: My dog finds the thrown treats when out of the car, but when goes sniffing, he gets excited and barks and if sniffs more, gets more excited. Sniffing does not relax my dog that usually relaxes dogs 🙂
  • Follow-up to the Zen car question: it only happens when we get somewhere and there are other dog in the area etc. she is fine if I just stop. we can’t fit a crate in my car for her anymore. she got too big.
  • Bonus: Grisha showed off-leash BAT with Peanut and an adolescent dog.
  • That’s also really interesting with the car…as it could be a functional reward? Would be interesting to mark in the car. Can you do that without moving?(Lucy rides in a covered crate.)
  • How have you been working on getting Peanut to accept puppy Bean into the family? How’s it going?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do You Teach a Dog Self-Control? (and More) July 14

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/133491535″][/s2If]

The audio in this video gets out of sync partway through. Sorry about that!

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • What are the first things Grisha is going to teach the puppy? 🙂 And why?
  • How to teach a dog self control or practise better self control? Older dog or a puppy.
  • I believe that most of my 20-month old doberman’s reactivity is immaturity and leash frustration. I have a huge walnut tree in my yard which is squirrel central so everywhere we go outside he is scanning up for wildlife to chase. The leaves rustle in the wind and he is piloerect and on his toes at least. He rarely will play “find it” in this state. Should I allow this in the yard?
  • First my puppy was a bit scared of people and dogs. We have worked with the socialization with our friends and their dogs and now puppy wants to greet every people and dogs we meet in our daily walks. Should I still mark & move as done before when puppy was scared? I don´t want the puppy greet everyone in our walks and we have not let her greet. How to avoid frustration?
  • We are keeping our puppy off leash in forest. How to work that puppy learns and becomes a habit to stay with us when off leash? We are giving treats when puppy walks close to us and playing with toys.
  • Question about the squirrels. Could Mark & Move help with this also as it helps with a lot of things 😀 Meeting squirrel is a stressful thing anyway (barking, whining,…)?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

First Office Hours with Grisha’s New Puppy! July 9

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/133252003″][/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • What is the best way to take your puppy to his first dog event like Match Show? We have now been at the edge of the Match Show just looking at a distance other dogs and hearing all the voices.
  • I thought the puppy was a girl and she had a brother. did you end up with the brother instead? if so why?
  • what kind of food puzzles do you suggest for a raw diet? I find that hard to do.
  • why does your dog have a hard time recognizing people? is that normal?
  • My dog is chewing up the house. What do I do to get her to stop?
  • How are you going to exercise your new puppy?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Is it Okay to Pick Up My Puppy If She is Scared? (and more) July 7

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/132866287″][/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • Why is it so important to adopt from Alaska? Why not drive with Peanut to another stare to select?
  • Is it okay to pick up your puppy after puppy disengages from something (car going by) and there is no space to move after marking, but you notice that puppy is scared and circles between your legs? Or just comfort on the ground?
  • If an off-leash dog is pestering my dog, and the other owner is not paying , I find that in the worst case by tossing treats away to get the other dog to leave us alone, (as we went over in class), the dog instead follows-us. How can I make this tool more effective?
  • As a trainer why do you think people would be resistant to train their dog / puppy / learn more about why their animal does certain things that annoy them? The local trainer (one town over,) who people use privately *most often* and *pay well*, has no education, no animal training / no affiliations: CCPDT / APDT, no website, and uses all traditional methods. Why do you think people do this?
  • Continuing on your thoughts about people’s resistance to training / my curiosity about it.)If the answer is lack of education, I have easily shared the link to this site with 60 or more people / shelters / organizations telling them about the one month free trial for the people / shelter scholarship. 1% have followed through.
  • What if my dog does not sniff calmly, but goes fast forward when I don´t throw treats and sniffs randomly? How to do BAT setup with this kind of dog or relaxed walking?
  • How do I get my puppy to stop going into the trash?
  • Grisha also talked about what she’s done at home to prepare for her new puppy at home, her plans for the puppy’s first hours with her,  and what she’s going to do to set the puppy and Peanut up for success.

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Long Should I Wait Before Getting a Second Puppy? (and more) July 2

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/132459609″][/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • We got a Goldendoodle puppy for our children a few months ago. She adores my 8-year-old son but tolerates my daughter, who is 6. I’d like to get another puppy for her. How long should I wait before getting another puppy?
  • Regarding the Goldendoodle puppy – How do I train the new dog to be my daughter’s dog?
  • My 14-year-old female Pug mix has suddenly become aggressive towards the cat whenever the cat comes near her food. It’s a little dangerous for the cat, but mostly dangerous for the dog. I’m afraid he will scratch her eye.
  • How do you teach heeling?
  • How do you do Mime Pulling without a leash?
  • Demo: Grisha’s new toy, the iChime
  • How do you choose a good animal rescue?
  • Bonus video: relaxation after play

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Jean Dodds, DVM (Nutrition/Health & Behavior) June 2015 Pro Q&A Expert

facebook-event

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level3)]Please log in as a Pro member to see the recording of Grisha’s June 30, 2015 interview with Jean Dodds, DVM below. 

If you are not yet a member, we  hope you will join us for the live interviews and other great features of our school. Click here for membership info. [/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level3)]Thanks for being a Pro Member! The recording of Grisha’s June 30, 2015 interview with Jean Dodds, DVM is below.[/s2If]

Topics for questions: Thyroid – including behavior, nutrition – including functional foods (see new book below), and any vaccine issue

“I invited Dr. Dodds to the Q&A because she’s one of the greatest veterinarians of our time. If you have a dog with reactivity issues, you may or may not know that one of the reasons may be a thyroid issue. If you have ever had your vet send in a sample for a fancy thyroid test, you have Dr. Dodds to thank! She also has a brand new book about food that may change your world.” – Grisha

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level3)][php]
//$provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”132264137″;
QandAiFrame($provider, $codeEvent, $codeRecording)
[/php]
[/s2If] Continue reading Jean Dodds, DVM (Nutrition/Health & Behavior) June 2015 Pro Q&A Expert

Fireworks, Thunder, and Scary Sounds: Dog Training and Survival Tips

Fireworks, Thunder, and Scary Sounds: Training and Survival TipsFirework noises have been exploding in my house all week.

Why? It’s part of Peanut’s annual fireworks vaccine. Because sound desensitization isn’t just a one-shot deal and the fourth of July is coming up in the US. It’s so long between firework displays that your dog may not remember the last training you did.

To prevent spontaneous recovery of your dog’s fear, give your dog a little taste of firework noises every year, before the full-volume ones happen.

[Quick bio: It’s always good to check your sources and their bias. I’m Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP, founder of the international Grisha Stewart Academy for dog behavior. I’ve been a professional dog trainer for 2 decades. In my online school, we help dogs and their people have the best lives. My bias is toward science and love, both of which indicate that consent and agency are keys to thrival.]

Continue reading Fireworks, Thunder, and Scary Sounds: Dog Training and Survival Tips

Is Play with Humans a Good Break Behavior? (and more) June 30

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[php]
//$provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”132259894″;
QandAiFrame($provider, $codeEvent, $codeRecording)
[/php]
[/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • In one Q&A Grisha showed a Bonus video tip: training for relaxation using the Premack Principle. The idea is to bring the dog to a calmer state after play? And then repeat multiple times in order to let the dog to learn how to calm himself?
  • Is play with humans good break behavior during a training session?
  • Can you help me understand the mechanics of increasing duration in Focused Walking? I’ve read the book, watched the video, and am trying to figure out that one piece. Sunrise reliably Touches on cue while walking, the treat she gets following the marker serves as a release. Should I increase the time/distance between cue and marker? Marker and reward? Both feel weird to me. Thanks!
  • When my dog is in the middle of a “reaction”, she often will not respond to me. Afterwards, she is so exhausted she goes practically limp. Is it ever a good idea to just let her bark it out instead of trying to distract her? Then, go on to the sitting, or other activities?
  • How to select a great dog trainer. If you have many options to choose from, for example more than one CBATI trainers what should one look for and expect?
  • How does one become a good client?
  • My dog barks at a sound out side the home. Should I ask him to “leave it” and pay for food reward? Will my dog learn to look for a food reward when hearing the sound?
  • I was watching TV last night with my dog beside me on the couch. When my boyfriend tried to sit down, my dog growled at him. This has never happened before. What should I do to fix this?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or could have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Often Should I Do BAT Set-ups? (and more) June 25

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[php]
//$provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”131797044″;
QandAiFrame($provider, $codeEvent, $codeRecording)
[/php]
[/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • How to begin relaxation with the puppy? How to begin teaching the calmness? Reward all the calm behaviors?
  • What are some ways you can improve latency in a dog that keeps delaying to sniff the ground for any dropped treats?
  • What do you think of practicing with sheet metal and flashing lights to prepare for Thunderstorm Phobia?
  • How often should you do set-ups/BAT walks (walks where you are able to do only BAT 2.0) to have the most success?
  • I am having trouble transferring Survival skill behavior learnt to outside. We have practiced the behaviors lots and he can do them very easily at home even with added distractions. However, outside even in a familiar place with no triggers he is not food or toy motivated. If it’s really high value he will come in eat it then go right back to what he was doing but it was obviously not rewarding enough. These behaviors are mainly for when he passes triggers on walks or when he gets worked up over a interesting smell. Ideas?
  • have you been able to master a squeeze tube and two handed leash walking. I have had a hard time with it.
  • Grisha’s topic: choosing a dog (more on this later)

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or should have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Prepare for Fireworks? (and more) June 23

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[php]
//$provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”131587741″;
QandAiFrame($provider, $codeEvent, $codeRecording)
[/php]
[/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • can you demonstrate the two patterns you drew out for me and how to use them. I am still unsure. I understand the patterns but not how they can change the reaction of the dog.
  • Grisha’s topic: fireworks
  • If puppy has bad experiences with another dog (barking) or puppy gets scared of bigger barking dogs running around loose. How to manage, that puppy doesn’t get fear issues towards another dogs when growing up despite some scary experiences?
  • I have a 6 month old Labrador puppy. How do I keep her from jumping up on people?
  • When you introduce a young dog to an old dog, can you just let them work it out, so the new dog will learn his lesson and back off?
  • What do you think about dog parks?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or should have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Advice on Getting My own Training Facility? (and more) June 19

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/131265068″]

[/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • How to teach puppy to respect boundaries in the yard? Puppy is never left alone in the yard, but would like to teach to respect the boundaries.
  • What is your favorite way to decrease latency?
  • What was your favorite single experience as a dog trainer?
  • How do you use the More Please Signal to condition scary sounds?
  • How would you teach a dog to walk on a Treadmill?
  • Thinking about getting my own dog training facility. So far I have just been teaching private lessons. Any advice?

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or should have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Recorded BAT Workshop: Grisha Stewart, Anchorage 2015

Horses and Dogs with Katie Grillaert – June 16

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the rest of our videos. (Special: get a free year of membership with the Empowered Animals BAT 2.0 video series)[/s2If]

Normally only members can see these recordings, but I’m making this one public because this is such a critical topic and could save someone’s life. Thanks for watching and sharing! I know you are all busy. 😉

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/130904006″]

Special Guest: Katie Grillaert  from Fetch Dog Training and Behavior in Minneapolis and Rhythmos in Europe. Friend Katie in ABBA.  The fabulous Carly Loyer co-hosted with Grisha from Alaska.

Questions in this video:

  • I have a horse that will not load in my trailer. How can I get him to go in?
  • Do you have an examples of what Carly spoke of? Getting your dog to sit as part as sound desensitization. If I could see it, I would understand much better.
  • I moved my horse to a new boarding facility and she is cribbing more than she did before. Is there anything I can do? Do you know why this would happen?
  • What is cribbing?
  • What are the differences between training horses and dogs?
  • What differences have you noticed between dog culture in the US and in Italy?
  • My dog waits calmly in the car to jump out. When he is out, he gets a bit nervous and excited. He has hurry to the grass area to sniff and mark and some barking. And still is a bit nervous as we continue our walk. How to make him more relaxed when out of the car? I have done some scratching until he notices me and has checked the environment. Is there better ways?
  • How do you introduce dogs to horses?

Useful Links:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Train a Dog to Stop Eating Poop? (and more questions) June 12

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[php]
//$provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”130567690″;
QandAiFrame($provider, $codeEvent, $codeRecording)
[/php]
[/s2If]

Animal training and care questions in this video:

  • I have marked and moved all the Look Aways my dog does after staring something more intensively than usual. Is this correct? Our main issue is other dogs, but I have marked and moved also “triggers” that aren´t so big issue.
  • If my dog sees a trigger that is coming closer to us and my dog begins to sniff the ground intensively, I mark it and move?
  • How do you deal with coprophagia? I’m looking for more info.. causes and especially on what best positive ways there are to train not to eat it…
  • Grisha also spoke about up-close BAT training, coming when called, and the 5-second rule
  • Next week: Katie Grillaert will be our guest to answer questions about horses, grad school, and running a dog training business while you are in another country. (She has a business in the US but recently moved to Europe).

Links Grisha referred to in this session (or should have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

(Video 27) He’s Not Listening! Problem Solving for Motivation & Training

Does your dog ignore you? Does he turn away when you’re talking or otherwise appear to be ‘stubborn’ or ‘dominant?’ Why won’t your dog listen? This video will go over ways that you can turn those questions around and think about how to motivate your dog to want to respond to you. As usual, the answers apply to other animal species as well.
Continue reading (Video 27) He’s Not Listening! Problem Solving for Motivation & Training

Compassion Fatigue with Molly Sumner – June 9

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the rest of our videos. [/s2If]

Normally only members can see these recordings, but I’m making this one public because this is such a critical topic and could save someone’s life. Thanks for watching and sharing! I know you are all busy. 😉

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/130241090″]

Our guest expert was Molly Sumner, CBATI of Frenchtown, New Jersey. She runs Kindred Companions dog training school and Yellow Dog Pet Supplies (which does shipping). She has lots of great products. Her ABBA username is @nikkoth.

Questions in this video:

  • What is compassion fatigue?
  • What can we do to prevent burnout?
  • What can we do to help our friends in the industry?
  • Why do we measure success by who can be the busiest?
  • How do you recommend dealing with the frustrations and disappointments that come when you have a dog who will never been normal because of damage done by illness.
  • What is your opinion about raising a performance puppy? Puppy has to tug even if he does not want to. Eventually puppy tugs as there is no alternative not to tug. Puppy can not say “I don´t want to”. Otherwise the puppy learns to ignore the owner´s wishes.
  • Depression is linked to a lack of controllability and predictability, exactly the sort of thing we try to build up for dogs in BAT. What do you think about that?
  • In BAT basic position, our shoulders / elbows are relaxed. With a small dog, can we cheat that to avoid my dog getting tangled in the long leash?
  • What are some good resources on this topic?

Here are some of the links that Molly wanted to share with us:

Other articles:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Dogs to Stop Fighting at the Door (and more) June 5

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/129944367″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • My dogs fight with each other sometimes just when I let them outside. What can I do to make them stop? [Grisha did a training demo with Peanut about teaching a release cue by name, as originally mentioned by Patricia McConnell in the resources mentioned below.]
  • Grisha’s topic: Overstimulation versus understimulation, what’s the right amount of training and what should we focus on? Also has information on shaping.
  • I’d like to work with our local shelter. What are some tips you have for getting a shelter to pay attention to you, as a trainer?
  • You see things that others do with their pets. When do you say something?
  • Next week: “In BAT first position, our shoulders / elbows are relaxed. With a small dog, can we cheat that to avoid my dog getting tangled in the long leash?”

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to (or should have):

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Monthly Challenge: Nails, Claws, and Feet

_MG_4109
These nails could be shorter – see the pink quick? Click to enlarge. (Photo by Alyssa Rose Photography)

Click to learn how to do the Monthly Challenge.

Picture what you want your pet to do when it’s nail trimming time, or time to wipe your dog’s paws. What is different about that and what you have now? Is there any room for improvement?

My vision for nail trimming is that the dog is in a comfortable position, actively giving you her paw to file or trim.

What does your situation look like now?

  • Does your dog run away and struggle, bite, or shiver when you try to trim his nails?
  • If your bird holds still while you do his claws, do you still need to catch him and hold him in position?
  • Does he willingly come over to you but you still need to grab his paw to do the trimming?
  • Do you use nail clippers but you’d like to use a nail file or a Dremel?
  • Would you like to train your dog to file his own nails on a big scratching board or wipe his own muddy paws?
  • Does your cat use your couch as a scratching post?

Whatever can be changed, come up with a goal for that and apply most of your pet’s calories and other reinforcers toward achieving it. Follow the guidelines of the Monthly Challenge to keep yourself motivated.

This could be a training goal, but you may be looking for more of a management solution, like building or purchasing a new cat scratching post.

Tip: When properly trimmed, your dog’s nails should not make a lot of sound on the floor. Your dog should be able to stand with the nails off the ground. Now some dogs have very long quicks (the pink part), like the ones shown here, and you need to just trim as well as you can, hopefully chasing the quick shorter and shorter.

Tip: A Dremel or other sanding tool can be really great for doing your dog’s nails. But it takes practice! Here’s a tip  from Jon Porter: get yourself a box of pencils and practice sharpening them without touching the lead inside (that simulates the ‘quick,’ the  pink part you don’t want to hit. Also remember not to sand in the same place for too long, because it gets hot. Practice at first with a stationary pencil and then see what happens if someone is moving it, as a dog might do. Jon recommends attaching it to a stick with a rubber band, but you can get creative on that.

Useful videos from the Member Library:

 

Follow your dog: How a little black dog led his trainer to the world and the web (Press Release)

dog-abba-100-tallClick to download as .docx

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Contact: Ellen Naumann
ellen@empoweredanimals.com
818-281-8235

Follow your dog: How a little black dog led his trainer to the world and the web
Grisha Stewart Follows Her Dog Again and Launches Animal Building Blocks Academy

Continue reading Follow your dog: How a little black dog led his trainer to the world and the web (Press Release)

How Do I Get My Dog to Move? (and more) June 2

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[php]
//$provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”129581147″;
QandAiFrame($provider, $codeEvent, $codeRecording)
[/php]
[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • How to handle two dogs and one owner with BAT Leash Skills in a daily walk? 🙂 I have not yet seen all the Films. Perhaps there is somewhere information for this..?
  • zen is getting worse. when she sees something she will not move
    I have had to go back to moving her with my knee. waiting her out we would be there for five minutes. treats, mime pulling, mark and move have already been tried. help!
  • Dog training is hard.
    We have been using the MPS of hid bed to brush my dog’s teeth since class last spring. Now when he does not want to have his teeth brushed anymore. Tried different treats, a new spot. Tried Premack with indication of his favorite game after brushing. None are working. No dental problems. Suggestions?
  • Question about “Sprinkles” game and frustration practice: my dog is becoming excited during “find it” practice used to calm down. It seems animal scents are distracting her and she is occasionally becoming super excited and dragging me over to a nearby tree to chase squirrels. I really need “find it” as a tool with her and don’t want to mix my messages …. Help?
  • Parkour. European style. Where can we learn more about this?
  • I have a six month old Golden Retriever and she learned how to walk on the leash within a week of us getting her (8 weeks). In the last week or so, however, she has taken to just plopping down and not wanting to move where we are going. Generally, she only does this on bathroom breaks, not actual walks. I know she needs to go to the bathroom, and I know she isn’t hurting because she will walk on walks and when you go where she wants to go, but this is DRIVING ME CRAZY!!All in all, my question is – do I just need to retrain her how to walk using silky leash or something similar?

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Stop Puppy Biting? (and more) May 29

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/129276193″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • is there a trick for using a clicker, giving treats and a leash that you are manipulating two handed?
  • How do you housebreak a puppy? My lab puppy is very sneaky. She keeps peeing on the carpets upstairs and behind the furniture.
  • My dog hates having eardrops put in. She runs away from me when I just bring out the bottle! How can I get her to hold still? She doesn’t look like she will bite me but I don’t want to have to chase her down.
  • My parrot Marley screams when I get home. What can I do to help him stay quiet?
  • My rabbit is chewing on all of the wires in my house. I’m afraid she’s going to shock herself. I keep everything unplugged right now but I don’t know what else to do. Help!
  • My 5 month 50 lb. rescued pit puppy won’t stop biting my husband and me…. we have tried yelping, slowly turning away and removing ourselves from the situation but he continues to follow and bite us and the bites are getting harder..please help!
  • Do you have any cues/skills that you would recommend to teach “city dogs” where frequent issues like trigger stacking, close encounters, sudden environmental changes, sidewalk restrictions, and the lack of environmental enrichment and exploration opportunities occur?

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Claudia Fugazza, Ph.D. (“Do As I Do,” Social Learning, Imitation) Pro Q&A

Q & A – How Do I Prevent Barking (and more) May 26

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/128906501″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • My 5 month 50 lb. rescued pit puppy won’t stop biting my husband and me…. we have tried yelping, slowly turning away and removing ourselves from the situation but he continues to follow and bite us and the bites are getting harder..please help!
  • I am trying to train my large puppy not to pull on his leash…any suggestions?
  • How to introduce a puppy to a older dog? We are having a puppy in 3 weeks so I would like to know the right way to introduce the puppy to our older dog.
  • Carly spoke about other times to practice sound for desensitization. Can you please discuss? Thanks.
  • I am having a sheltie puppy in three weeks. I have heard that shelties like to bark 🙂 How to prevent the barking? How to teach a dog not to bark?
  • Do you use environmental cues? Would it be useful to teach a puppy that when he sees a another dog, you get treats from owner? Always when puppy sees a dog -> click -> treat ? Puppy begins to think : “a dog -> means owner has food -> go to owner”.
  • For next time: Do you have any cues/skills that you would recommend to teach “city dogs” where frequent issues like trigger stacking, close encounters, sudden environmental changes, sidewalk restrictions, and the lack of environmental enrichment and exploration opportunities occur?

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

(Video 35) Efficient Dog Training: How to Save Time with Good Timing

Does your dog do things for the dog trainer but not for you? Part of the problem may be timing. For example, if you treat too early or late, your dog may be confused or could even be learning a behavior you didn’t mean to train. This video goes over some essential tips on timing, to make you a more efficient animal trainer.
Continue reading (Video 35) Efficient Dog Training: How to Save Time with Good Timing

Q & A – How Do I Stop My Dog from Chasing My Cat? (and more) May 22

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/128647626″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • My 3 year old Dalmatian is exercised off lead in countryside. He was a friendly dog but began growling and lunging at young dogs when he was about 18months. Consequently I put him on lead if I saw a trigger approaching. Over the past year this has become much worse. He gets anxious when I attach his lead and he now lunges and barks at any unknown dog we meet. I don’t know how to help him. I probably should have said: he’s a nervous dog and before the growling began would always give unfamiliar dogs a wide berth so he wasn’t put on lead very often.
  • What to do when our dog chases our cat? Does it for the fun of chasing. Cats usually stop walking when dog approaches.
  • How about “Leave it”? Dog likes to put something icky in his mouth and I want him to Leave it. How do you teach that in ABBA?
  • I’ve worked hard on cc-ing nail clipping so I really enjoyed More Please. We’ve made good progress, but what do I do about getting her nails trimmed before she willingly allows me to do so? I end up “undoing” all of our good work!

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

(Video 33) The More Please Signal Will Change Your Pet’s Life

Do you need help with grooming, vet care, or teaching your dog to be comfortable with touch? We can create a positive association using basic classical conditioning, but we can take that a step further to give the animal more control. The More Please Signal is a way for animals to cooperate in their own training and care. It’s a very important concept for dogs, cats, and all other species, so please watch this video!
Continue reading (Video 33) The More Please Signal Will Change Your Pet’s Life

What Do I Do When My Dog Barks at People? (and more) May 20

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/128438947″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • my dog targets readily in non stress, non excitement situations.
    she also sits or looks at me following the word slow on a leash. when excited she does neither fluently. I am using the premack principle to prevent darting to odor and causing physical harm to me. I need a transitional stage in these situations. how can I accelerate practice and success?
  • What to do when do wants to chase rabbits or another prey? I keep my dog in long line, but how to help my dog in his arousal when seeing rabbit or prey? I would like to keep my dog sometimes off-leash, but can not because my recall does not work when dog sees the rabbit.
  • What to do when my dog begins to bark to people who stop to say hi! to us when we are on our walk? I use to treat my dog fast but there comes the barking when I am talking to people.
  • what do you do if you are working on hand target as permission and creating a chain. then all of a sudden you get no response. after backing off to just the target, still nothing. do you assist and almost put your had on her nose? the last one should always end on a positive note I would think
    there is often no warning for the demise. (she is doing it correctly over and over again and then stops doing it.)
  • I am starting your BAT 101 course and it is so great. Could you explain again why you grab under the leash and show us what that looks like? Is it okay to do it another way?
  • My dog keeps digging up my garden. I have a 3 year old German shepherd/husky mix. She has made a mess of my tomato plants. I am afraid if I plant more, she will just dog those up too. Help!
  • For next time:
    • My 3 year old Dalmatian is exercised off lead in countryside. He was a friendly dog but began growling and lunging at young dogs when he was about 18months. Consequently I put him on lead if I saw a trigger approaching. Over the past year this has become much worse. He gets anxious when I attach his lead and he now lunges and barks at any unknown dog we meet. I don’t know how to help him.
    • What to do when our dog chases our cat? Does it for the fun of chasing. Cats usually stop walking when dog approaches.

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

(Video 30) Building Your Pet’s Confidence with Classical Conditioning

When your dog barks at the doorbell or your cat hears the can opening and comes running into the kitchen, that’s likely because of respondent learning, also known as “classical conditioning,” a type of learning where one event is paired with another. You may be able to change your pet’s association with the doorbell, for example, by using a “counterconditioning” process: consistently following the doorbell sound with treats.  This video explains how to use this cool scientific principle for socialization and the rehabilitation of fear.
Continue reading (Video 30) Building Your Pet’s Confidence with Classical Conditioning

What Do I Do When My Dog Acts Deaf? (and more) May 12

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/127772816″]

[/s2If]

Carly Loyer was the special guest expert in this Q&A Session.

Questions in this video:

  • Do dogs grieve? My older dog died recently and I think her “sister” is depressed. They were not really related, but they were very close.
  • My dog and I were in your online class. Can you please offer more suggestions of what my dog can be doing, while I play sounds, such as thunder storm noise for D/S?
  • do you have any tricks up your sleeve for when a dog becomes ‘deaf’ to a request that she knows only too well, well enough that if you tap your foot or say “what did I say” it gets performed. (Grisha answered last week as well)
  • My dog is a 3 yr old intact Leonberger. He is a show dog and registered therapy dog. In classes, at shows, dog events, he is non reactive. But if we encounter the random dog on walks,or get too close he will sometimes bolt, pull away and run to the other dog to sniff. If surprised indoors by a dog, he may bark and lung, then be fine. We are taking a break from therapy until this is resolved. help!
  • I’ve been trying to teach my dog to walk nicely on a leash and I have tried giving her treats when she comes back to me. She is not pulling as hard any more, but she’ll run to the end of the leash, stop, and look back at me for her treat. As soon as she gets the food, she heads right back to the end of the leash again. What am I doing wrong?
  • What are the best ways to keep your dog from jumping up? I keep trying to fix my dogs jumping and I feel like she will never stop jumping up. She is already six months old.
  • My dog is chasing my cat in the apartment. It’s kind of funny because they are the same size (he is a small Jack Russell terrier). But I think it scares the cat. How can I teach him to stop thinking she is a squirrel?

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

(Video 29) Scary Monsters! 3 Useful Ways to Reduce Your Pets’ Fear

In this video, Grisha gives an overview of counterconditioning, “Behavior Adjustment Training,” and “Treat and Retreat.” These three useful techniques are used in different ways to rehabilitate fear of people, other dogs, surfaces, body contact, etc. These techniques are essential for professional dog trainers and pet owners alike.

We will go over counterconditioning and BAT in more depth in other member videos. Grisha also has full courses, books, and feature films about BAT in the Campus Store and a section on Classical Conditioning in the Ahimsa Manual.
Continue reading (Video 29) Scary Monsters! 3 Useful Ways to Reduce Your Pets’ Fear

How Do I Stop My Dog from Attacking the Other? (and more) May 8

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/127323170″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • do you have any tricks up your sleeve for when a dog becomes ‘deaf’ to a request that she knows only too well, well enough that if you tap your foot or say “what did I say” it gets performed.
  • My niece is terrified of dogs and my dog is also scared of people. How can I bring them together?
  • I have two Westies, male & female 5 years old. I have had the boy for 3 years and the girl her whole life. When they are out at the fence or in the house and someone goes by, they both bark and then he turns to her and attacks her. What can I do?
  • I made a training mistake the other day. I let my dog off leash before he was ready, so I had to go catch him. This guy stopped to help — he was only helpful because he just terrified my dog into running back to me. He told me that I had to be more dominant. What could I have said in that situation?
  • I know plenty of people use BAT with horses, but what about miniature potbelly pigs? I use BAT with dogs all the time (fear, reactivity, and aggression are my specialties) and I have clicker trained a pig before (that was super easy), but I have been asked if I can help someone with their 2 Male PPs that are not fans of strangers (to put it lightly).
  • My cat is terrified when I take her to the vet. I have to shove her into the carrier because otherwise she will flip out in the car. She yowls the whole way. What can I do?

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Thought Revolution and Online School Launched by International Dog Training Expert (Press Release)

dog-abba-100-tallClick to download as .docx

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Contact: Ellen Naumann
ellen@empoweredanimals.com
818-281-8235

Thought Revolution and Online School Launched by International Dog Training Expert

Anchorage, Alaska. June, 2015 – One of the main controversies of the last several decades in animal training is whether or not to train with aversive force. Grisha Stewart is definitely about minimizing force, but asserts that modern training can do even better. She’s here to start a grass-roots revolution. “Quality animal care is more than training without adding pain or fear,” she said. “As caretakers, we have the opportunity to facilitate two-way communication, empower animals to meet their needs, and teach them how to participate in their own care.”

Continue reading Thought Revolution and Online School Launched by International Dog Training Expert (Press Release)

(Video 25) No Treats? No Problem! How to Use the Premack Principle

Most modern training relies heavily on treats. Do you just give up if your dog or cat doesn’t like your treats? The solution is not to switch to punishment, but to find a better reinforcer. Unless your pet is lying around like a lump and doesn’t even eat, there is a reinforcer he will work for. That reinforcer may just not be food because the individual animal defines what ‘treat’ means. In this video, Grisha explains some creative ways to find training reinforcers that motivate your pet.
Continue reading (Video 25) No Treats? No Problem! How to Use the Premack Principle

How Do I Keep People Away from My Dog On Walks? (and more) May 5

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]Grisha Stewart answers members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access.

These sessions are normally for members only, but we have made this general member Q & A recording public for you. Please share it on Facebook or wherever you can, to help spread the word about ABBA. Thanks![/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]Q&A recordings are normally for members only, but we have made this recording public. Please share it on Facebook or wherever you can, to help spread the word about ABBA. Thanks![/s2If]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/126950354″]
Questions in this video:

  • Do you have a suggestion to keep would-be petters away from your person-reactive dog when you’re out on walks? I need tips for politely asking people to keep a distance.
  • I have a new case staying with me for a rescue that is highly human aggressive and moderately dog aggressive. a family down the road was not only still up but outside with their uncontrolled dog in an unfenced yard. I announce to the family (mother and 3 children) to please call their dog. Mom looks my way, says “I’m busy” and turns to go inside.How can I handle this without first feeling so angry that they are not respectful enough to a persons request to not allow their dog to approach but now to ensure their dog does not get close enough that my dog in training might attack?
  • My dog is triggered to frantically bark when we use a certain “pitch” calling out, such as: “Hi! I’m leaving now! Is that the mailman? Nice day!” Words don’t seem to matter, it’s more the “pitch.” Since we are often interacting with someone when her barking is triggered, it is hard to anticipate, stop interacting, and work with the dog. Wondering how to better handle this?
  • My cat bolts out the door whenever I open it. How do I keep her from dashing out! She’s really fast and sneaky.
  • I’m trying to teach my dog Sadie to come and she does ok if there are not a lot of distractions. But on trails she runs up to the other dogs or chases after squirrels and will not come back. What can I do to fix this?
  • For next time:  I have two Westies, male & female 5 years old. I have had the boy for 3 years and the girl her whole life. When they are out at the fence or in the house and someone goes by, they both bark and then he turns to her and attacks her. What can I do?

Related links:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]Free Sample members can check out more videos. Full student and pro members get even more features, including a discussion group, store discounts, etc. Click to compare.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Can You Demonstrate a Slow Stop/Relax the Leash? (and more) May 1

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/126650922″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • can you demonstrate getting a dog to a committed stop. and then releasing the leash. with no stimulation I get an automatic stop. with stimulation I get oppositional pulling. on the street tonight she proved that she can respond to the braking distance in the leash without mime pulling. she will stop and look at me to get the treat if it is high value, so what I need help with is to stop a dog when they won’t stop because they are too interested in something else.
  • My dog keeps escaping from the house and garden. How do I get her to stop this behaviour?
  • I am interested in getting a puppy. I need to get it from a breeder because I have 3 small children and a cat and we can’t have aggression. What’s the best way to choose a puppy?
  • Demand Barking (barking for attention) what is your favorite way to teach the dog to stop barking at their owner
  • Regarding the leash reactive Boxer: When given the chance to get close to dogs, she goes straight for the groin to sniff and then is completely uninterested in them afterwards, but her tendency of bee lining for dogs’ groin scares the dogs and owners. Is there anyway to help her learn better manners around other dogs?
  • I like having my dog sleep on the bed but my husband doesn’t agree. He says my dog already thinks he is the alpha. Any ideas for convincing him?

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get the Toy Back in Fetch? (and more) April 28

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/126288768″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • I have a 2 year old tomcat who is spraying in my house. He was totally fine and now he’s got this problem. I’m afraid we won’t be able to keep him. We can’t have urine everywhere. It really stinks and I read somewhere that cat urine smell is also bad for my baby. 🙂 Help!
  • if there are not a lot of questions can we address my puzzle question. zen has loved and mastered all the nina ottosson puzzles we own. we purchased the Mix Match Puzzle (apparently the highest level) and she does not have a clue. I have tried to break it down for her but have had no luck
  • My dog loves to play fetch but she never gives it back! She just goes after the ball and runs around, looking like she wants me to chase her. Or if it is a stick she just grabs it and then goes to lay down and chew it. How do I get her to bring stuff back?
  • My Boston Terrier does not like walking on grass. When I take him outside we walk and then at some point he lays down on the grass and refuses to walk. How do I get him moving?
  • I am a trainer. A client of mine comes to class with his four children and their Doberman puppy. He keeps reprimanding the kids and it’s making the other students concerned. Help!
  • I am interested in getting a puppy. I need to get it from a breeder because I have 3 small children and a cat and we can’t have aggression. What’s the best way to choose a puppy?
  • my dog keeps escaping from the house and garden. How do I get her to stop this behaviour?

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Animal Magnetism: Is Your Training Attracting or Repelling?

It’s not just about getting behavior to change. The learner’s motivation for changing has a profound impact on the arc of future behavior. For example, getting a child to stop picking on someone to avoid punishment is not the same as teaching them empathy and the power of compassion.

When I teach humans or other animals, I want behavior change to be for the right reasons, whenever possible, so that the lessons can keep propagating forward over time, like ripples in a pond. That’s why I train dogs the way I do, and why I’m a huge fan of nonviolent communication (more about that in my How to Human class).

I like to think of two opposite forces that inspire behavior: attraction (I want) and repulsion (I don’t want). You can imagine these as physical forces, like gravity or what happens when you bring two magnets together in different ways. One way pulls them together in a very strong bond. Reverse that, and they’re pushing apart.

magnets

If you had one magnet and wanted to move the other one around without touching the second magnet, how would you do it? You can move the second magnet around very reliably if you use attraction. You can still move the magnet with repulsion, but pushing is less efficient than pulling, and sometimes shoves it in unpredictable directions.

Let’s go back to animals. By attraction, I mean that the animal is inspired to do the behavior. For example, there’s a smell across the room, so the dog walks over to investigate. The smell pulls him over. Or you ask the dog to sit and he does so because he has a history of getting treats for sitting. By sitting, he moves toward the opportunity to get a treat. It’s like the treat pulled him into sitting, so that’s why I call this attraction. Continue reading Animal Magnetism: Is Your Training Attracting or Repelling?

How is BAT 2.0 Different from BAT 1.0? (and more) April 24

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/125967195″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • what are some good ways to teach a dog to respect new and temporary boundaries. we seeded spots on our lawn today and put up 2ft orange web fencing. much to my surprise zen jumped over the fencing in a running jump. I have taught boundaries with the word ‘away’ and C/T in the past but I would like to make sure she stays away when she goes out to the bathroom alone. what else can I do?
  • I have a reactive rescued dog that I have successfully used the original BAT methods with. She has gotten to the point where she will do an automatic calming signal (usually a look away) or look directly at me when approaching a trigger. I then reward her with more space or if when absolutely not possible, I manage her with counterconditioning, trick exercises, etc.I came across your instructions about BAT 2.0 and am a little confused- have you changed the BAT methods altogether? Or is BAT 2.0 simply another tool to have in one’s toolbelt to use along with the original BAT?
  • I think it is harder to do BAT 2 in an urban environment or for sidewalk walking, than it is to use BAT 1
  • I love the Cheerios idea. Other low-calorie treat ideas? You touched on different philosophies in your Modern Training Video here.
    If I am following advice about using treats for counterconditioning for a shy dog, can you discuss how to explain this to a veterinary nutritionist who would say, why feed anything but dog food?
  • I have a 6 month old Maine Coon cat. He is scratching the leg of my roommate’s couch and my chair. How do I keep him from shredding the furniture and making the whole place look awful?

Here are some of the links that Grisha referred to

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Puppy to Like Car Rides? April 21

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/125604383″]

[/s2If]

Question in this video:

  • Do you have set ups for walking past agressive barking and growling dogs (behind a fence)? Especially if you can’t bring distance between the dogs barking and your dog. We try to walk on the other side of the street, use a “look at me” command and her favorite toy to carry for her. But if cars drive past, we can’ t change the side of the street.
  • Beyond what is on the site, what are suggestions for shy dogs who run away at nail filing / separately / or scissors, even with distance, duration, high stakes treats and a hungry dog?
  • HI, my puppy is 5 1/2 months old and he is having ongoing problems with the car. Currently he is calmer during travel but dislikes entering vehicle. I have used all doors, step, hand targeting, games with other dogs getting in the car. He does not seem to like being in a confined space and also has problems settling in his crate although his crate training is improving. Some fresh ideas may help.
  • fyi, I have done ttouch. I had no success and had a master come here. they worked with us for four hours and found only one thing that was helpful. everything , especially the wraps backfired.
  • I just got a new shiba inu puppy. She is growling at me when I touch her or try to put a leash on her to go outside. What can I do to make her stop growling and snapping?
  • Do you have a favorite muzzle?

Here is the Pro Member Q&A that referred to

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

February 2016 Pro Q&A Guest Expert: Dr. Helen Zulch (Life Skills, Health-Behavior Link))

Dog Aggression Outbreak in Chicago in 2016?

Aggressive_Australian_ShepherdThe Canine Flu outbreak in Chicago is serious and responsible dog lovers are being cautious, not taking their dogs to parks and other such areas. This flu is a virus that US dogs have never been exposed to. It’s a big deal.

But what worries me more is what is going to happen later with Chicago’s puppies, because you really only get one chance at good socialization. Will we have a rash of dog aggression showing up in 2016, from all of these puppies who missed out on meeting other dogs? Will people say “my dog was a Chicago Flu Puppy” to explain why they lack social skills and show aggression?

Continue reading Dog Aggression Outbreak in Chicago in 2016?

How Do I Introduce My Giant Puppy to a Smaller Puppy? (and more) April 17

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/125306980″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • My 6.5 month old puppy is starting to be left for a few minutes in other rooms…. Pizza is on the counter and I step out of the room and come back to find my puppy jumping on the counter trying to reach the pizza. How should I react?

  • what are some common stumbling blocks you see for trainers who are looking to take their skills (working with dogs, or working with dog guardians) from the intermediate to the advanced level?

    Is there a specific theory gap that is undermining the application of technique? Or do you see skill sets that are primarily limited by imprecise mechanics?

  • I am stuck on mark and move. the times it is best used and the connotations, it just seems ambiguous.

    you can mark seeing something?

    mark tuning away? that the dog initiates?

    I am also curious about the timing. when should the treat be given or does it not matter.

    I can see it being give at the moving away point but in the earlier stages to coincide with the marking almost as a lure.

  • How do I introduce my puppy (8 month English Mastiff) to another puppy (2 month Yorkie)? The little one is so small and my dog is so excited that I’m worried he will hurt her. This is my boyfriend’s mom’s dog so it has to work!

  • I have a 9 year old lab that is new to my house (mom’s dog and the nursing home can’t take her). Last night I left some bread on the counter and she ate it all! She was doing well but now she’s constantly sniffing the area. What do I do? She wasn’t doing this at my mom’s house.

  • We have a 6 month old Greater Swiss Mountain Dog puppy. We started obedience training and leash manners with her this week, but she is still a big leash puller. The trainer says she’s very dominant, so it could take more time. We have a baby and she is going to knock my wife down. Help!

  • Berners are trained to cart as well. Maybe Zen thinks I am cart

  • Zen does cart, she does not have some of her poor walking behaviors when carting, the cart is her armor outside. Why do you think that is?

  • I just got a new Shiba Inu puppy. She is growling at me when I touch her or try to put a leash on her to go outside. What can I do to make her stop growling and snapping? [partially answered – more next time!]

Here are some of the member videos Grisha referred to:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

Joey Iversen, CBATI, CPDT, KPACTP (Teaching Clients, Environmental Engineering)

How Do I Keep My Cat from Climbing the Furniture? April 14

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/124962859″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • Can you explain a little about the role of a dog’s perception of “territory” in Empowered Desensitization?For instances:
    I noticed that you usually have the decoy dog in place before the learner dog “enters” the setup.Can I/should I expect my dog to react differently on seeing another dog near her property (or near her car) vs seeing another dog at a similar distance during a walk?
  • On using empowered desensitization in every day life: is there a scenario where allowing a dog to stare out a window at normal neighborhood activities is appropriate? Would I use the beach analogy to make decisions here?
  • We have a bed that needs to be sold and it’s leaning against the wall. Our cat won’t stop climbing it! What do I do?
  • My puppy keeps running to the fence and jumping up at people. They he runs after them as they walk along and he barks. Is he being aggressive? What is the best way to fix this problem, or will he grow out of it?
  • My dog is shy and ‘find it’ has been great for him when walking outside. Now that it is spring, there is food everywhere on the ground and in the park.What to do when ‘Leave it’ is not stopping the eating of food, and ‘Look’ and ‘Find it’ are not enough. He was dieting and is at a perfect weight. We are trying to help him feel full, without gaining back the 2 lbs.
  • What are CEUs?
  • In the Q&A last Friday you demonstrated paw touches for nail filing. I am wondering if you could show or describe how you taught the rear legs. I just finished doing zen’s nails and feet with a dremel and I do have a hard time positioning the rear. Also getting underneath the right rear foot for grooming. I do have her stand on a large size yoga block for round the fur on her feet etc.
  • How frequently should I be training my dog? I also have a cat and want to start training her. Is it the same for that?
  • Any recommendations for good treats for cats?
  • Bonus video tip: Nail Filing.

Here are some of the member videos Grisha referred to:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]More questions? You can post them on the Live Q&A page now to get in the queue for next time.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Train Two Dogs at Once? April 10

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/124674904″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • I am curious to know if you are aware of any support groups for the emotional struggles of owners of dogs with issues. I was drawn to the concept in the upcoming conference in Chicago.
  • When is it appropriate to use an activity to help the dog during a BAT setup? If it’s the first setup is this a good idea? Would I use this to occupy them for part of the time, and then let them gather information during other parts?
  • How do you obtain focus for the activity if the dog becomes obsessed in the trigger situation or anticipating the trigger?
    or would it be better to have the activity to lessen the obsession?
  • How do I file my dog’s nails?
  • Why did you decide to use a file rather than a dremel? does the file work on a big dog with really thick nails?
  • How do I apply that to a rabbit?
  • I see you trained your dog and your cat there. How do I train two animals at once?
  • Bonus video tip: training for relaxation using the Premack Principle.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]Grisha mentioned a video you could share of a previous Q&A that was public. Use this link: https://grishastewart.com/qa-2015-04-07/[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

What’s the Best Way to Bring a Rescue Dog Home? (and more) April 7

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]Grisha Stewart answers members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access.

These sessions are normally for members only, but we have made this general member Q & A recording public for you. Please share this page on Facebook or wherever you can, to help spread the word about ABBA. Thanks![/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]Q&A recordings are normally for members only, but we have made this recording public. Please share it on Facebook or wherever you can, to help spread the word about ABBA. Thanks![/s2If]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/124335039″]
Questions in this video: 

  • What is the best harness for my dog?

  • What’s the best way to bring a rescue dog home? Any tips for the first 24 hours?

  • My dog pees every time I get home. I tried to have him sit. What else should I do?

  • I’ve always been curious to hear more about Peanut’s role in developing BAT.

  • Except for “Sprinkles” Lucy seems to start “working” around treats. Could you talk about that…?

  • Any advice about frustrated greeters on leash? I try to vary when moving forward, or back, and sometimes walk parallel, giving reinforcers for looking at me, or offering calm or sit for please. Sometimes Cai doesn’t want food.

  • How do I give my dog a bath?

  • I’m advertising for a BAT practice dogs..have you ever done something like this? If so…what did you ask for…if not…what to look for? (I’m following up from our last class. and want to practice with Lucy more….but no one around to help…so I’m advertising locally….lots of students around here with dogs so I thought I would try that…) [Here is the link to the BAT groups that Grisha mentioned in the answer]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]Free Sample members can check out more videos. Full student and pro members get even more features, including a discussion group, store discounts, etc. Click to compare.[/s2If]

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

How Do I Get My Dog to Stop Licking?! (and more) April 3

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]We answer members’ pet training and behavior questions in live sessions, which are recorded and provided here for easy access. Please log in or sign up for a Student or Pro membership to see the video on this page.[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/124076012″]

[/s2If]

Questions in this video:

  • How do I get my puppy used to wearing a leash?
  • Near the end of our walk there was one of life’s surprises – a young man coming up the road kneeling on a skateboard holding onto his giant (lab/mastiff cross maybe dog) by the collar – dog running sideways trying to get to us, and barking. It was a scary sight if I was looking at it from Cai’s perspective. She was not too sure to make of it. I tossed a bunch of high value treats on her snuffle cue on the grass in opposite direction, so she would be distracted (and give this dog a calming signal). It was fairly smooth. Any other suggestions in that kind of situation?
  • My dog is barking at people who walk up to us. What do I do?
  • There is a cat on a retractable in my neighborhood (not really a question but it got Grisha talking about retractable leashes).
  • what do you suggest for a dog who sniffs everything to the point of obsession. it is very hard to get her attention when she is sniffing obsessively. we did nosework to try and diffuse this but I am not certain it did anything. the issue is worse this spring than before.
  • Inara has a licker problem with people other than me. It’s like she gets frantic in her need to greet people and lick their mouths, but then she’ll also just do drive-by lickings of people as she walks by or when they’re petting her. Not so good for therapy dog work! Some of her licking is very fast and energetic, and that’s normally around people’s mouths. But then she once that’s over she seems to just enjoy licking people with long tongue strokes, any available skin she can get. It’s quite annoying for the people being licked, understandably so. I’ve tried cheerfully sending her to her crate when she does, or redirecting her back to me with treats, but the licking seems very self-satisfying for her. Any ideas?
  • What about the spray that premier pets used to sell? [Does it work?] I don’t know if they still do. I have it and have only used it to get rid of bees that were following us. (I am allergic to bees).
  • How heavy is the Symmetry Line? With all the fabulous rings does that make it heavy?
  • How do I keep my puppy from biting me when I put his harness on?
  • My cat is not using the litterbox now that we have 3 cats. What do I do?
  • What is your favorite aspect of ABBA? What are you most excited about?

[php]memberVideoFooter();[/php]

You’re Not Losing Your Mind, You’re Mourning: Grief from the Loss of Your Dog

Video by RedandHowling.com shared with permission

To love a dog is to truly know the meaning of unconditional love. If you were lucky enough to share your life with a dog, especially a ‘soulmate dog’ who has passed or is nearing the end of life, then you also have the flip-side of such a strong relationship: grief. Every experience of grief is unique, so you can’t really be prepared for the loss of your dog.

Continue reading You’re Not Losing Your Mind, You’re Mourning: Grief from the Loss of Your Dog

What’s Next?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

Please keep working with your dog on all of the activities you learned in the course. You can keep working and check back here any time.

If you haven’t already signed up for membership, consider doing so because it is a great way to stay motivated. One thing members get is access to Grisha’s ABBA Facebook group. You can post videos and ask/answer questions in a discussion with your fellow ABBA members. The group is moderated by our teaching staff to keep the conversations on track.

I hope you found the information in this course useful. Puppy raising is a hard job! Remember to set your puppy up for success and focus more on socialization and cooperative care than on showy tricks, and you’ll do fine.

Keep filming your training sessions so that you can look back to see how far you have come.

The BAT 2.0 Feature Films might be helpful to you. Here are the topics. The first three are useful for all dogs and the last three are most useful for dogs who have or who are developing reactivity. That is quite common for adolescent dogs.

  • Talk with Me (2-way Communication)
  • Walk with Me
  • Problem Prevention
  • Survival Skills
  • BAT 2.0 Set-Ups
  • BAT for Geeks

Other courses: 

Also consider subscribing to my YouTube channel. Thanks!

Only good things,
Grisha

[/s2If]

What’s Next?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

Please keep working with your dog on all of the activities you learned in the course. Each dog and situation goes at its own pace but if it’s going to slow, consider hiring a CBATI to help coach you. You can keep working and check back here any time.

If you haven’t already signed up for membership, consider doing so because it is a great way to stay motivated. One thing members get is access to the ABBA Facebook group. You can post videos and ask/answer questions in a discussion with your fellow ABBA members. The group is moderated to keep the conversations on track.

Keep filming your set-ups so that you can look back to see how far you have come. As you review your videos over time, focus on where your dog has improved, how you have improved, and what your dog can do now that wasn’t possible at some point in the past.

The BAT 2.0 Feature Films might be helpful to you. Here are the topics:

  • Talk with Me (2-way Communication)
  • Walk with Me
  • Problem Prevention
  • Survival Skills
  • BAT 2.0 Set-Ups
  • BAT for Geeks

Other courses: 

I’d love it if you would also subscribe to my YouTube channel. Thanks!

Only good things,
Grisha

[/s2If]

Lesson 16: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the BAT 101 course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

HOMEWORK

  • Find two unofficial videos of BAT on YouTube. Watch on a minute each one, and look at each of them from the perspective of what you could do differently to help the dog succeed, and whether it really looks like BAT. Feel free to actually comment on the YouTube site – politely of course. 🙂
  • Do parallel walking or following as part of a BAT 2.0 set-up. Most set-ups should have this natural sort of movement whenever possible. For your records and your further education, pick a particular section to focus on. As usual, pay close attention to the dog’s body language and note any points where the session could have gone better (and how). For example:
    • Was the dog in the green and blue zones only?
    • Was the environment enriched enough?
    • Were you able to stay out of the dog’s way or did you accidentally lead the dog toward the trigger?
    • How were your leash skills?
  • Pretend your area is too small, your dog is a little bored, etc. so that you need to use the Parallel Play variation, just to practice. Still don’t lead your dog toward the trigger. Have your dog do some activity at the same time that you are doing BAT.
  • When you start to do close-up work, be safe and only do it when your dog is ready.

[/s2If]

Lesson 15: Small Spaces

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

Week 6

  • Training up close or in small spaces
  • Do a BAT Set-Up (submit video & written assessment)

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL

My favorite part of BAT is when we are able to get the dog on social terms with the helper, easily and at the dog’s own pace. That may mean they actually get to the point of playing with the other dog or enjoying petting if the helper/trigger is a person.

Sometimes we have to work up close because there is no other option. For example, in the winter cold or hot summer sun, some clients are unwilling or unable to work outside, so you only have a training building to work in. Or you may just be too close because there is no other option in your city. “Close” is defined by the dog, so it may be that you have a large area, but the dog needs an even bigger one.

These times require some more creativity, and we’ll talk about that below.

GREETINGS WHEN THE DOG IS READY

It’s pretty exciting when the dog is ready to work up close. It means our sessions are paying off and the interactions are going great, but it’s also riskier, because the teeth are closer to the trigger and the dog’s emotional state can change more quickly. You may get to the point of working up close within one session with your helper, or it may take multiple sessions. But if it’s possible and safe, definitely do the up-close work with as many of your helpers as you can.

For dogs who are scared, a positive social experience can change the valence (direction of the emotion). That is, having a good experience can help him enjoy other dogs or people. For dogs who react out of frustration, working calmly up to the other dog/person allows them to experience a calm greeting. A lot of frustration seems to come from insecurity, as well, and this process builds quiet confidence.

If the issue is more predatory in nature, a full-on greeting is probably not a good idea, although the slow, careful BAT process can give dogs a chance to see cats, for example, in a social way instead of seeing them as food. A dog who has predatory behavior toward small dogs, for example, would benefit from a casual walk with a fence in between for safety. As I mentioned with cats, it seems to help them integrate that size of dog into the ‘social’ category.

My BAT book has information on the last 10 feet that still apply (even though the book is about BAT 1.0 until I revise it). If you have that book, go ahead and reread that section. I will cover as much as I can here as well.

Work on important triggers from a distance first. Even if your dog is great with the trigger at a distance, moving closer is a big deal. Your dog’s likely to react up close to things like eye contact, movement (especially if it’s sudden), freezing, sounds from the helper, etc. if you don’t work on those aspects of the trigger from a distance first. When you try something new and potentially freaky, move the dog away first, then have the helper do the new thing, and give the dog the option of going back again at his own pace.

I recommend going through a lot of these kinds of variations up through about 10 feet away from the trigger, moving back, doing another one, etc. That allows you to get a lot of variation out of ‘striking distance’ and gives you a little leeway if you mess up. We still want the dog relaxed and below threshold.

Vary your set-ups so that there are things like parallel walking, following, and approaching from different angles. Parallel walking isn’t really parallel because the paths of the helper and the dog should be natural and curvy, allowing free movement, not just side by side. When you do following, use your own judgment on when to do a slow stop, because (of course) the dog is walking right toward the helper, because that’s the direction they are already both walking. If your dog suddenly starts moving more quickly or gets taller, that’s a sign that you’re probably following too closely.

Safety is key. When you are confident that the dog would be comfortable moving in for a sniff and you’re seeing signs of curiosity (soft, curved body, relaxed muscles in the face, etc.), use some simple management tools to ensure safety.

For example, have a chain-link fence between the dog and helper if you are doing parallel walking, following, or walking up for a sniff. Other kinds of fences or even bushes can add some safety too, but it is riskier if the dog’s jaws or whole head can go through the barrier.

Fences are nice for greetings between dogs because they make it so the leashes can’t tangle. Before you begin doing greetings without the fence, make sure that you are able to properly do the “leash dance” where you keep only the leash between you and your dog.

One way to make this happen is to stand in a particular position relative to your dog (say, at your dog’s right side, toward the rear), and stay in that position no matter what. It’s like heeling except you’re doing it. If you are a dog trainer working with a client, this is good to rehearse before you allow your client to handle the leash during up-close work. As an aside, the leash dance is also good to practice in puppy class.

Click to Enlarge
Click to Enlarge

A muzzle is like a fence for the dog’s teeth. Some people say that if you need a muzzle, you are too close, but I totally disagree. I think dog trainers do our clients a disservice if we say that. We should only be working at a distance where we think the dog will be totally fine. BUT we are humans and make mistakes. The cost of that mistake is high, especially for the dog. So even if we are 99.999% sure that it won’t happen, we need a fail-safe. That’s where the muzzle comes in. It’s like a helmet for human sports. Train your dog to get used to it and use it whenever necessary, in order to expand the type of activities that are safe to try.

If I have a client dog who is totally wiggly and wants to greet a child, but has a bite history or any indication in the history that biting is possible, that dog is going to be wearing a muzzle for the first several greetings (or there will be a fence in between).

It’s so much easier to get helpers when they know that there’s safety in place. If I go rock climbing outdoors, go skiing, or go biking, I’m going to do what I can to not need my helmet, but I’m certainly going to wear one. If I have a dog with a potential for biting, there will be safety in place (like a muzzle) for close-up greetings, even though I’d only do the greeting if I thought the dog was ready for it.

Keep it moving. Dogs tend to have better greetings if they do them on the move. It’s like paying attention to where they are walking takes some of the stress off of the meeting. I think it also helps prevent freezing, or at least reduces it. Walking as they sniff also makes it easier to keep them from starting out face to face. Face to face is definitely the riskiest way to greet; nose to rear is usually much more successful, starting with the dog who has issues sniffing the helper.

Another reason I like having the initial greetings be part of a parallel walking or following scenario is that it is easier to get the dogs apart if you see any tiny signs of stress. They were already moving, so the one who is ahead just keeps moving and the one who is behind stops. Voila! The dogs are moved apart.

Short sniffs and call away. Mark and Move is great for the first part of your greetings. This is the part of BAT that’s probably the most similar to regular clicker training. Make sure to have enough time away after each time that you move away, and don’t lead the dog back. Let the dog be the one that wants to go back in to see the helper.

Here’s how I tend to do things. This applies to fear, frustration, and proper aggression, although I’ll spend more time using treats for the latter two issues.

  1. Mark going in to sniff with a click, move away, and treat [gradually start clicking later]
  2. Mark looking away (or other small disengagement) with a click, move away, and treat
  3. Mark head turn with a click, move away, treat
  4. Mark head turn with “done?” move away, praise
  5. “Proper” BAT 2.0 with just following the dog and avoiding tangled leashes

Fade out Mark and Move asap using the steps above. For most dogs, who reactivity has a component of fear, I need something like 5-10 clicks worth of sniffing (building up duration), then about 5 for looking away, 5 for turning away, and then go without the food. The sooner we can make the greeting be about the interaction between the dog and the helper, the better – with the caveat that we only allow dogs to be in situations that we think they can handle.

Extend the greetings. As you do your Mark and Move, you’ll gradually let the dog be ‘on his own’ for longer and longer periods of time. So at first you might click the instant that the dog goes toward the other dog’s rear end. Do that twice and then click later, after a ½ second of sniffing, then 1 second, then 2, etc.  This applies for all issues. It’s either a calm, controlled greeting for a dog with impulse control problems, or a calm, not-scary greeting for a dog with fear issues. Either way, short and successful greetings are a good thing.

In this video, I am working with Bean using a recall cue and moving away when he’s ready, then treating. You would want to fade out the treats, as I’ve done somewhat here.

End on a good note! We humans tend to be greedy trainers and want to get our dogs closer and closer to the trigger. Sometimes they don’t want to, and that’s just okay. If they greet for a short period and move on, that’s also okay. Try to end your session while they are still nicely getting along and your dog is not yet saying, “I’m done.” If he does say he is done, listen! For example, park your car close to your set-up location, so your dog can head back to the car when he’s ready to go.

I like to have the last 5-10 minutes of a session be parallel walking or following at a distance that I know for sure the dog is totally fine with, as in ‘very light green’ on the ocean chart. That way, the dog and owner both have time to process and have a chance to have a positive experience in the presence of a trigger. Your choices are really endless, but finishing off with a pleasant activity is useful for owner morale and for the dog as well. Just make sure you don’t lure the dog into a place where he feels uncomfortable by having the helper feed him, for example. If you have a human helper and you do want to have them feed the dog, use Suzanne Clothier’s Treat and Retreat instead of just feeding from your hand. A super-short summary of her technique is to toss one treat to where the dog is and then the next behind the dog so he retreats. Repeat. The key is to not lure the dog forward, but to reinforce where they get to and then help them move away so they can choose to come back.

TRAINING IN A SMALL SPACE (including tight spots in the city)

If the dog isn’t really ready for working at the distance you have available for your set-up, you have a couple of options, which are basically the same as the Survival Skills we talked about earlier in this course:

  • “out of sight” (reduce stimulation level)
  • “out of mind” (reduce attention to the trigger using distraction).

Out of Sight: This is the best option because it maximizes the dog’s control in the situation and lets her practice decision-making. Change the more distant ‘antecedent arrangements’ by doing something that makes the helper less scary or exciting. This can be done by having the trigger behind a barrier, sitting or lying down, facing away, etc. or reducing the dog’s general arousal via exercise, diet, medication, etc.

Out of Mind: This is all about getting the dog to think about something else so that the dog is able to show calm(ish) behavior around the trigger. This works to keep the dog calm during training, but in my experience, it slows things down if your goal is for the dog to be comfortable in the world without micromanagement from you. This could be for a number of reasons, but one of them is that the tools we use to distract the dog (food, verbal cues, etc.) are often context cues and without those cues, the dog resorts back to the old behavior.

Mark and Move, which we discussed in Lesson 3, is a combination of out of sight and out of mind.

  1. Behavior (yay, dog does something, learns his behavior is effective – requires setting up the situation carefully so the behavior happens)
  2. Mark (out of mind – as soon as the marker happens, the dog is more distracted)
  3. Move Away (out of sight – reducing arousal level by moving away, may reinforce behavior)
  4. Reinforce (out of mind – reinforcer is distracting and reinforces earlier behavior)

Whenever possible, arrange your set-ups so that your dog can just do ‘regular’ BAT without any aspect of distraction. If that’s not possible, at least arrange it so you can use Mark and Move with the least distracting/intrusive combination of behavior, marker, and reinforcer.

Parallel Play is another combination of ‘out of sight’ and ‘out of mind.’ Basically, the dog is doing something interesting while BAT is also happening. The regular version of BAT, following the dog around as he investigates an interesting environment, is an example of parallel play. That’s my preference because it’s the most natural and seems to promote generalization (it works in other situations). Other examples include Sprinkles, massage, TTouch, clicker training, agility, scent work, and Treibball.

When using something like a scent game or activity, be aware of potential resource guarding or frustration issues as well, and make sure to keep both dogs within their comfort zones.

There’s a fine balance between mood and distraction. Improve your dog’s mood and keep him calm, but don’t distract him so much that he barely notices the trigger. This is one of the potential risk with parallel play. And remember, while you do these activities (or really, any activity in your dog’s life), you are still doing BAT: let the dog check out his environment, slow stop if needed, and don’t bug him to go back to work unless he’s headed over threshold.

Dogs in ‘working mode’ can almost always go closer to the trigger without exploding, so it comes in very handy. It’s just not as useful for changing the emotional response to the trigger or fixing the issue long term, so try to find a nice big, interesting space so that you can do BAT without needing to have the dog in working mode.

[/s2If]

Lesson 14: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

HOMEWORK

  • Compare the old BAT video of the horse (from the notes in the last lesson) with how BAT is supposed to be done today. What is different and why?
  • Find a video of training online (clicker, traditional, BAT, counterconditioning, etc.) or find non-BAT videos of you with your dog. Focus in on 1-2 minutes of each one, and look at it from the perspective of troubleshooting as if it were BAT. It doesn’t have to be a BAT set-up, it could be another kind of training that you look at through the lens of BAT.
  • Time for another set-up! You’ll end up doing many of them, assessing yourself each time to see if it could be done better. As before, film this for yourself and go over the video.
  • Find the most successful part of your BAT set-up, meaning the part that looks the most like BAT as I’ve described it, with the dog in the green or blue zones. Note your dog’s body language, what you did or what happened before the session (or didn’t) that helped this go well, and anything that could still be improved. Keeping a written record of this for yourself will help your training improve. Plus you can go back to it later and see how far you’ve both come.
  • Pick some moments from your set-up that could have gone better. In the notes for your future self, comment on what happened and what you could have done to improve the situation.

[/s2If]

Lesson 13: Troubleshooting

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

Week 5

  • Troubleshooting BAT Set-Ups
  • Do a BAT Set-Up

UH OH, TROUBLE!

The perfect version of BAT is boring to the casual observer, with the dog in the green or blue zones on the ocean chart. Sometimes things go wrong and we need to change them to help set the dog up for success.

Good socialization (and re-socialization) really comes down to micromanaging the situation versus micromanaging the dog. Whenever you can set the dog up for success just by changing the environment, do it. That option empowers our dogs by giving their behavior realistic consequences. Micromanaging the dog just empowers us.

Our general rule of thumb is to use the least intrusive tool that helps the dog offer appropriate behavior. We are teaching the dog that she can handle (and even enjoy) these situations by setting up scenarios in which she is comfortable.

That means working farther away from the trigger or reducing how exciting the trigger is, so that your dog can navigate the situation without your obvious help. Sometimes it means stepping in and making the decisions for her (calling the dog, luring away with a treat, etc.) but if that happens, it means you need to reassess what you are doing and come up with a better way for your dog to be successful without you making decisions for her.

WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?

If your dog looks at the trigger, disengages quickly, and then just stares at you without going anywhere, your dog is in ‘working mode.’ Some dogs need more direction than others and freely wandering around the space may feel unusual or uncomfortable.

  • Walk near interesting smells, so he can take his focus off of you. If you are working in a field, go to the edges of the field or to trees and bushes, where there are better smells. You can also casually drop treats behind you so that your dog can discover them later.
  • Later, do some wandering walks with no triggers around, using the same trick of casually scattering treats mentioned above. You should have already done them at this point in the course, but you may need to do more.
  • The dog may be stressed and looking to the handler for help. In that case, regroup and start again farther away from the helper.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135901999″]

If any of the following situations happen, you are probably waiting too long to stop your dog. Whenever you have to prompt the dog away from the trigger, go far enough away that he doesn’t glance back right away. If you use a recall cue, move your dog away from the helper and then always reinforce your recall cue, say by tossing some treats on the ground.

If it’s difficult to stop your dog in the first place, he’s already in over his head, so call your dog away. I like “Treat Party” as a recall cue, which I reinforce with many treats tossed on the ground, one at a time. “Touch” is also a good behavior to do here.

If he walks directly toward the helper again after disengaging, call him away, unless you are really sure that he is relaxed enough to handle it.Most of the time when this happens, the dog is too focused on the trigger and at least a few steps into the water.

If it takes your dog more than 2 seconds to disengage, his toes are in the water. Don’t take control right away, but you will suggest where to go next using Mark and Move.

  • Relax and wait for him to disengage on his own, then suggest that he move away, using the right level of intrusion (control/prompting).
    • If your dog was air-scenting (gathering info) and pretty relaxed, prompt in a small way by shifting your weight away from the helper.
    • If turning away was a little challenging, use a more obvious prompt: ask aloud if he’s “Done?” and shift your weight away from the helper. [The old Stage 3]
    • If he’s getting more excited while you wait (face muscles tight, taller, up on toes, breathing faster, heart rate going up, mouth closing, leaning toward the helper, spine pointing directly at the helper, chest puffing out, ears forward, tail up, forehead wrinkled), call your dog away! He’s moving deeper into the water at this point, so you can’t give him time to check things out.

Most dogs seem to be drawn to the helper in some way. For one thing, they are a social species and tend to be interested in people and dogs in one way or another. That’s certainly the case for dogs with frustration issues, but even for dogs who are afraid, curiosity tends to take over if they are at a safe distance. Furthermore, learning about something that is scary makes it less scary, so there is a good reason to get close enough to gather information.

The dog should gradually be getting closer and closer to the trigger. Make sure your dog is the one who drives the approach. Don’t get greedy! It’s a slow process, especially the first several times. You might even start out at one distance and then realize you actually have to be farther away. In the beginning of your sessions, you are experimenting to find the right working distance. That’s critical: working at the right distance is the most reliable way to help your dog overcome these issues. Throughout each session, continually evaluate to make sure the distance or excitement level of the helper is at the right level to keep the dog in the green or blue zones.

If he completely ignores the trigger, you are too close or too far away, the area is way too interesting, or he just hasn’t noticed the trigger yet. Here are some options:

  • Walk him further away. If he starts to look up at the helper at that point, you were too close before.
  • Jingle tags for helper dogs or have helper humans say something to make sure he knows the helper is there.
  • Sneakily put down some treats so that as he searches for the food, he works his way closer to the helper. Just make sure he doesn’t sniff his way up so close that he is shocked and starts barking when he notices the helper for real. DO NOT lure him into a situation that he’d consider to be dangerous or scary.

OTHER TROUBLE

Controlling handler: Please burn this one into your memory!

Another thing that can go wrong in a BAT session is that the handler has a plan for what is supposed to happen, so she leads the dog around instead of letting the dog guide the process. I am guilty of that myself – in fact that was part of the early version of BAT.

In the older version of BAT, we would retreat and then walk back when the dog looked relaxed and ready. We always were watching for signs of stress, but because dogs tend to follow us (reinforcement history) we often led them too close to the trigger. This wasn’t done by force, but still, it was a problem because we often brought the dogs into the yellow zone. Take a look at this video for an example of that:

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135890865″]

A final note: If your dog barks, growls, tries to flee, etc. you are clearly way too close! Move away and do Find It until your dog can relax and begin again. You might just have to stop for that day and try again at a better distance, in a better location.

[/s2If]

Lesson 12: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

HOMEWORK

  • Do a BAT set-up (or feel free to read the next section on troubleshooting before you do this).
  • If you haven’t already done so, download the  BAT Basics PDF from my handouts page to give to friends who help you with your set-ups:  (available in other languages).
  • Film your set-up so that you can watch what happened. If possible, have your camera person occasionally show the trigger in the camera, so you know where the trigger was when you watch it again. But mostly they should focus on you and your dog.
  • Watch the first 30 seconds after the dog gets out of the car at the set-up location. Note whether you got the leash ready BEFORE you let your dog out. Assess your dog’s body language.
  • Watch your video and try to pick out where you and your dog did the best job (it could be different spots). Note your dog’s body language and anything that could be improved.
    • Did you start below threshold (green or blue) or was the dog sucked in the whole time (yellow or worse)?
    • Did you accidentally lead your dog toward the trigger after he was already aware of it, even subtly?
    • How were your leash skills? Bows, braking distance, leash off the ground, etc.
  • We will discuss troubleshooting some more in the next lesson, but the BAT Troubleshooting PDF will help give you a head start.
  • Cut to a short clip to share to your peers to discuss in the ABBA Facebook group.

[/s2If]

Lesson 11: BAT Set-Up!

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

Week 4

  • BAT Set-Ups (why, what helpers do, safety, picking the right space)
  • Do a BAT Set-Up

TIME TO REHEARSE

In the last lesson, you practiced your survival skills, so now hopefully the reactions on walks have decreased in frequency and intensity. Keep thinking about how you can help your dog avoid over threshold moments on walks and in your everyday life. In the meantime, let’s get started with the BAT set-ups, where your dog can really practice being boring around his trigger.

Note that I wrote “bor-ing,” not “bor-ed.” The dog himself should be having a fairly good time, in a relaxed way. But to anyone watching you train, your dog is just going to be walking around sniffing things. Boring.

WHAT DO BAT SET-UPS LOOK LIKE?

As I mentioned before, BAT set-ups are rehearsals for relaxed behavior.

Using the ocean analogy from Lesson 2, our dog can wander around the “beach” (no big interest in the helper), even occasionally approach the “shoreline” (show interest in the helper), but you will not let him step into the “water” (stressed, too focused on the helper). We want the dog to be curious about the helper, but not showing signs of fear, frustration, or aggression.

Click to Enlarge
Click to Enlarge

Please do not share the above image or post online 🙂

Now that you know the leash skills and you understand the ocean analogy for body language, set-ups are only a matter of putting that information together.

BEFORE YOUR SET-UP:

  1. Practice leash skills until you feel comfortable doing them anywhere.
  2. Practice Mark & Move and other survival skills. Make sure to include just using “Done?” as a marker (question to the dog) and praise after moving away. No tugging on that leash as you leave!
  3. Pick an area that is interesting to your dog. Bushes, trees, smells, hills, etc. No scary sounds or other triggers. Your dog will probably give more relaxed, exploratory behavior at the edges of such an area, rather than in the center of a field. As your dog gets more advanced and you can work up close, an area with a chain-link fence would be useful, so you can work with that between the dog and the helper.
  4. Have a friend meet you there to be the helper (with a dog if that’s your dog’s issue). Your dog shouldn’t come into contact with the helper until you are ready – meaning your dog has had a chance to explore the space and calm down first.
  5. 2-way radios or mobile phones are useful for staying in touch without needing to shout. If you use a phone, call at the beginning and lease the connection open.
  6. (optional) Exercise your dog a bit before by going on a walk in a place where triggers are unlikely, searching your back yard for treats, etc. Fetch isn’t the best option because it is such an exciting activity and that can contribute to trigger stacking during your session.
  7. Bring a stuffed food puzzle.
  8. Bring fight break-up equipment. I have never needed it during a set-up but I bring Spray Shield every time, just in case.

SETTING UP:

Once you get to the space where you will do your set-up, take a look around and make sure it’s still a good place for your dog to work.

  1. Calmly attach the harness and long leash before going outside (i.e., inside the car or your house). Double-check that the dog will not slip out of the harness and that you are in basic position (so no leash on the ground) before the dog gets out of the safe place.
  2. Toss some treats on the ground before your dog gets out of the car. (This can be done in advance or you can also use Sprinkles, just not every time).
  3. Let your dog out of the car to find the treats and then explore the area for about 5-10 minutes. This includes the tripod (if you have one) or camera person.
  4. Walk away or distract your dog for a bit and get the helper into position. This should be so far that your dog would not go running over there or try to avoid the helper, but just notice and move on with exploring.
  5. The helper can act normally (dog sniffing for treats, human relaxed and interacting with the student dog handler) if the student dog can handle that. If not, move farther away or have the helper be more stationary, turned away, etc.

If your dog is very focused on the helper, you are too close. Encourage movement away, do find it, turn the helper away, etc. and set up again at a better distance.

DOING BAT

Here is a video of Jennie Murphy, CBATI doing a BAT set-up in Newfoundland, Canada. Listen to the instructions that Jennie gives to her client as well.

BAT steps:

  1. Let your dog explore the area (including the trigger) on a loose leash. Stay out of the way!
  2. Slow stop if your dog walks directly at the trigger (or otherwise seems too focused)
  3. Go back to step one – walking any direction except for right at the trigger is okay.

Over time, your dog will probably wander closer and closer to the trigger, but never in a straight line. In this week’s set-up, don’t go close enough for your dog to reach the helper, even if you think he’s ready. I want you to know what to do and be absolutely sure that it will go well before we take that step.

In the chart below, doing BAT right is the green loop or the blue one. The colors match the ocean chart from the body language lecture. If you are too close, you end up crossing the shoreline into the water, and we have the yellow or orange from this chart.

Click to Enlarge

The yellow zone here is when your dog takes a while to disengage, but is still sniffing, mouth open, the heart rate isn’t particularly high, and you start to see little signs of disengagement, like ears relaxing or twitching. In that case, WAIT for disengagement, and then prompt a move away. So the only difference between this and the ‘correct’ version of BAT is that you don’t just follow the dog after. We assume that if it took so long, the dog is slightly magnetized and may not make ideal choices on his own. We suggest the move away after disengagement in the yellow zone because it may not occur to the dog. This is an example of Mark and Move because we say “Done?” or “Yes” when the dog disengages, move away, and praise.

The ‘darker’ yellow and orange parts on the chart are when we have really gone too close and don’t think the dog will disengage on his own. The dog needs help anywhere from a shift of your weight to a full recall cue. For example, if slow stop was too difficult or the dog is getting taller, etc. you’d call the dog away. Mark and Move and other survival skills are handy here.

Let’s recap:

Manage the activity and distance of the helper to keep your dog’s stress level low. If you do that well, he will keep himself out of the “water.” You can just stay out of his way. This empowered exposure lets him learn that the helper is not a threat (even possibly fun) and that he can explore and move away. If your dog is used to interacting and needs a verbal connection to normalize the situation and keep his stress level low, calmly talk or pet him for a bit when he checks in.

If you see your dog walk directly toward the helper at any point, think of that as reaching the shoreline. Slow your dog to a stop at the shoreline, giving him a chance to calm down, gather information, and decide what he wants to do next. After your dog comes to a full stop, relax the leash so that the leash makes a U-shape or “smile” between you and your dog. This allows him to decide what to do next without added tension from your leash.

When your dog is done looking at the helper, he will disengage, meaning that he turns away, stops focusing on the helper, etc. The most obvious behavior here is a head turn and a shift of his weight. Praise (optional) and follow him on a loose leash in whatever direction he goes, except for directly at the helper. If your dog immediately starts to go directly toward the helper again, he is too focused and needs his lifeguard, so call him back and try again from farther away.

AFTER THE SET-UP

Knowing when to stop can be tricky, because humans are generally ‘greedy’ and want to keep training. 🙂

Keep an eye on your dog’s interest in the activity. Try to avoid ‘training to the point of failure’ but if your dog wanders away, shows signs of stress, etc. then stop the session or take a break. Toward the end of your set-ups, while things are still going well, you can move to an even greater distance so things are very, very easy for your dog. Following the helper from far away is a great way to finish up a session. A walk ‘together’ — at the right distance — can be pleasant and social, a chance to continue to learn in a relaxing way.

You could also do something like a casual Find It or feed your stuffed food puzzle to your dog in that location or in the car. The idea here is just to have a relaxed and pleasant way to finish up the session that doesn’t take away from the lessons your dog has just learned.

So basically you have a sort of BAT menu:

  1. Appetizer: Find It
  2. Main: BAT set-up (follow your dog around)
  3. Dessert: Fun activity with the helper, Stuffed puzzle, or more Find It

[/s2If]

Lesson 10: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

HOMEWORK

    • Download the BAT Basics PDF handout for friends and family from my Handouts Page. It’s available in different languages on that page.
    • Practice Mark and Move with your dog, with a fake ‘trigger.’ With your dog on leash, put a full treat pouch, toy, or loaf of bread on the ground as the ‘trigger.’ Work at a distance where your dog isn’t completely sucked in and practice still doing the style of following with BAT (i.e., don’t lead your dog toward the trigger once he’s already shown he knows it is there). Vary the behavior, markers, and reinforcers as you practice. Think about which ones to use at the distance you are to the trigger. Film it and when you watch your video, note which Behavior, Marker, and Reinforcer you used for the Mark and Move parts.
    • Body language. Re-watch your Mark and Move session or use another video of your dog (ideal: video of your dog doing some other kind of training, like classical counterconditioning, clicker training tricks, etc.). For 30-60 seconds of of the video, really dig into what body language you are seeing. I recommend you take the time to write it down.Example: “From 1:00 – 1:12, Fiona’s ears were perked forward, eyes on the trigger, and her body was mostly still with a low tail. At 1:13, she exhaled heavily, turned her head away and focused on the treats in her handler’s hand. From 1:17 – 1:45, she took treats rapidly from the handler, but her jaws were using a pretty snappy motion and her gaze darted back and forth between the trigger and her handler. When the handler turned his body away from the trigger and began to walk, Fiona followed and at 1:55 she did a shake-off, after which her tail relaxed, her movements became more relaxed, her mouth opened and her breathing was more regular.” It can be more specific if you play it back in slow motion.
    • Practice Touch.
    • Have a friend that your dog likes be your ‘trigger.’ Practice survival skills, like having your trigger come around corners, move toward you, etc.

[/s2If]

Lesson 9: More Survival Skills

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

MORE SURVIVAL SKILLS

Let’s take a look at some more options for you to use to help your dog relax.

You can’t control triggers on walks, but you can control where you go and what you do to keep your dog “on the beach.” If you see the trigger before your dog does, proactively arrange your distance to the trigger so that your dog will stay relaxed when he sees it. Cross the street or move behind a car or trees until the trigger passes. That way, when your dog notices the trigger, he can make his own choices without needing your help.

Take walks in places without off-leash dogs, change your walking time, etc. If your dog is “in over his head” (or soon will be), call or Mark & Move without shouting or tugging on the leash.

Sometimes you can’t move far enough away. In that case, you are in survival mode and have to distract your dog from the trigger. This can happen a lot during urban training. In the ocean beach analogy, if you can’t bring your dog back to shore right away, you need to toss out a flotation device. There are many standard trainer tricks to get through this sort of situation.

Room to Move  Trapped!
  • Mark & Move
  • Touch (nose to hand) as you walk away
  • Find It (toss treats on the ground) as you move away
  • Toss treats at a loose dog and move away (keep your dog’s focus if you do that)
  • Click for looking at the trigger, then treat
  • Tricks (Touch, chin targeting, etc.)
  • Find It in place (don’t do this with loose dogs!)
  • Stand between your dog and the trigger and cue Watch Me
  • Constantly feed your dog until the trigger goes away

When you use distraction to get through this kind of situation, stress may still build up. Distraction doesn’t necessarily give your dog any active coping skills or teach the dog that the situation is safe. However, it’s not nearly as bad as having your dog freak out. If distracting doesn’t work, do whatever you can to hold on and keep everyone safe. Do not make things worse by trying to punish your dog. Assess your dog’s stress level. You may need to do Find It to help your dog relax (toss treats to find on the ground) or head home.

When you get home, brainstorm to avoid getting trapped again in the future. For example, do you have to walk that particular route? Can you drive somewhere else to walk?

Note: It’s tempting to stay in the city and be continuously in survival mode. If you want to stop micromanaging your dog, set up scenarios where your dog can be relaxed, even if it means driving to a location being creative about locations, implementing visual barriers, trying medications, relaxation techniques, etc.

Think of it this way. Imagine you are an elementary school teacher. What is the better way to teach?

  • Give a child a realistic, slightly challenging math problem he is able to think through and solve on his own, or
  • Give him a calculus problem and tell him what to write on his paper to get to the answer?

While option 2 is better than, say, giving him a calculus problem and then hitting him when he gets the wrong answer, it’s still better to give the child a question that is interesting but possible to solve on his own. When you need to help your dog, be proactive, making it so that he still has a chance to practice decision-making but is likely to make the ‘right’ choices. Set him up for success and let him think!

Keep working at ways to set your dog up to stay calm during walks, so the training you will do in the BAT set-ups can take effect. When you start doing set-ups that allow your dog to experience the trigger in a stress-free way, you will see dramatic improvement.

[/s2If]

Lesson 8: Mark and Move

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]
Week 3

  • Mark and Move and other Survival Skills
  • Practice Survival Skills
  • Assess body language of your own dog
  • Recruit help for next week’s BAT set-up

THE PLAN

So far, you have practiced the leash skills that will help you and your dog relax during BAT set-ups. Please also practice those skills on walks any time that it is safe. If you don’t feel ready to use the longer leash on walks, that’s fine; just keep practicing in areas without your dog’s triggers. I want you and your dog to be safe and confident.

This lesson is about survival skills, including Mark and Move. We also recommend that you use the body language information from last week to assess your own dog’s body language.

Most of the progress your dog makes will come from set-ups. The survival skills discussed in this lesson are aimed at reducing stress on walks and in real life, so that your BAT set-ups can do their magic. Survival skills also increase safety and make it so that you can be more relaxed and less embarrassed on walks!

MARK AND MOVE vs. BAT

Mark and Move is a variation of BAT to use when you can’t do ‘proper’ BAT set-ups. I thought long and hard about whether to present the information on BAT set-ups first or the survival skills first in this course. Having this first will help make your walks more safe and comfortable right away. The reason I hesitated to start with this is that I was afraid that you’d think that this is what BAT is all about, marking and moving. But BAT is about a partnership with your dog, a flow, working at a distance that gives your dog a chance move around the trigger (mostly) without your intrusion.

When your dog is close to the trigger, you have to help out, with cues, clicking, treats, etc. so that your dog can function at that distance. That’s survival, not the ideal place to learn to be relaxed around the trigger. At the right distance, you won’t need to micromanage; you can let your dog have more control with fewer distractions from you. BAT set-ups will be discussed next week. Just remember that Mark & Move and other survival skills are for when the ideal situation isn’t possible.

WHAT IS A MARKER?

We aren’t talking about the tools that you write with on posters. A marker is something like a clicker, word, or hand movement that tells your dog that he has done something to earn a reinforcer. Markers pinpoint the behavior, like a camera taking a picture. Using a marker is an efficient way to teach your dog to repeat behavior that you like.

For example, you could teach Touch, which is an extremely useful survival skill:

  1. Hold out your ‘target’ hand in an unusual way (ex. fist, pointer finger out, etc.)
  2. Dog sniffs your hand
  3. Click (and put your target hand behind your back)
  4. Reinforce (feed a treat, throw a toy, etc.)

When your dog is reliably touching your target hand whenever you hold it out, move to new places, have your hand further away so the dog has to reach more for it, etc. When that is going well, add a verbal cue, like Touch. Say “Touch” just before you put your hand out. If you want to get fancy and make sure the dog only touches when you ask for it, then start to only click/treat if you have said the cue. One time out of 5, don’t say Touch, and then don’t click/treat. If your dog hesitates, praise him and reinforce the hesitation by saying another cue, like Sit, and reinforcing that.

MARK & MOVE

When your dog sees a trigger on a walk, he may be able to handle the whole situation on his own or he may need a little help. It’s tempting to head the other way whenever you see a trigger, but try to allow your dog to do as much as she can on her own.

NOTE: There’s one big issue that’s worth pointing out. With BAT, we should not get stuck in a rut of forward-back-forward-back. Follow the dog instead of having your own agenda. Convincing the dog to go toward the trigger is not recommended in BAT 2.0, even with Mark and Move. Even walking toward the trigger before the dog walks that way is generally to be avoided. This is especially important to watch for with Mark and Move, where you tend to have treats on you, which can lure the dog foward.

1. Behavior

When your dog notices a trigger, assess which of these your dog can do on their own without freaking out (that’s the technical term for ‘can do while the heart rate is steady or slowing down to normal’):

  • Body turn away from trigger
  • Head turn
  • Look away
  • Blink, ear twitch, etc.
  • Look at trigger is enough!

As your dog does these behaviors, <strong”>mark and move away from the trigger, and then reinforce with something (I’ll talk more about how to select your reinforcer later). The least intrusive thing to do is to let your dog process the trigger on her own, so waiting until she turns her body away is great. But she may not be able to do that with this trigger, at this distance. If you think there’s even a 1% chance she will start getting more excited instead of being able to turn away, mark something smaller. The list above is rated from most to least responsibility for the dog (also most to least empowering). When in doubt, pick something lower on the list, but just know that the goal is for the dog to do this all on her own, so go higher on the list if she’s ready.

2. Mark

The marker you use is also important. You can just pick the same one every time. If you are more advanced, use the same rule as above and pick the least intrusive marker.

Examples (in order from least to most intrusive/distracting):

  • “Done?”
  • “Yes”
  • Clicker (or hand flash for deaf dogs)
  • Cue (Touch, Come, etc.)

Any of these markers work well in the moment, but a cue or a clicker grab the dog’s attention in a big way. That’s great when you need it, like when a trigger suddenly comes into view or you have construction workers in front of your home. The clicker simultaneously marks the behavior and brings the dog back to you for the reinforcer. <strong”>But then you still have the dog’s attention for a good while afterwards. You become the center of her universe, so she is missing out on a chance to notice what’s going on in the environment. So use the marker that is just at the right power for the moment. Don’t use a hammer when a flyswatter will do.

3. Move!

After you mark, be sure to move away whenever you can. If you are using these tools, it’s because you are too close to just let your dog wander around and check things out. If you have great treats, your dog will stay wherever you are to eat them, but that doesn’t mean it’s the right thing to do. Staying in one spot puts your dog in conflict. He wants to go, but he wants the treats. Make it easy on him by moving away and then treating. It also has the bonus of teaching your dog to move away fro the trigger in a happy and controlled way (not fleeing, but not charging toward the trigger, either).

4. Reinforce

Moving away was probably already a reinforcer because you’re in survival mode, but adding another “bonus” reinforcer is a nice touch and useful to keep your marker strong. Again, we want to choose a reinforcer that’s not too strong for the situation, drawing all of the dog’s attention to you.

Examples:

  • Praise
  • Petting
  • Food treats
  • Toys
  • Activity (jump up, Find It, agility etc.)

Every dog is different, but that list is approximately in order for how distracting it is to your dog. The more distracting it is, the less attention he has for the trigger.

As a general note, it’s better to err on the side of being TOO distracting. Being relatively relaxed around the trigger is the most important thing. If that means your dog doesn’t have a chance to even see the trigger because he’s so distracted, that’s okay. It’s better than freaking out and barking, because that will have a negative effect on the rest of your dog’s experiences that day. That said, if you are confident that your dog is capable of looking at the trigger and turning away on his own, then he can learn more from that encounter.

Note: Mark and Move can be used whenever you need it. That includes walks and in set-ups where you can’t move far enough away. If you are familiar with the older version of BAT, Mark & Move is similar to the “Stages.” Just make sure that you still let the dog be in charge of moving forward, with you as the brakes to keep him from getting too close.

Don’t get in the habit of doing BAT the old way, by moving away and then suggesting the dog forward again. Wait for your dog to be the one to initiate movement toward the trigger and try to have movement be in a natural set of curves, not a straight line at the trigger. And whenever you can, use the regular set-ups, discussed in the next lesson, rather than Mark & Move. It’s a survival skill, with less learning for the dog, but more control for the person.

Click to Enlarge
Click to Enlarge

Please do not share this image or post online 🙂 It is available in the Ahimsa Manual.

[/s2If]

Lesson 7: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

HOMEWORK

  • Practice leash skills on walks
  • Leash Skills video (explained below)
  • Take the time to write up an assessment of your video (for yourself or to discuss with your fellow students in the group)
  • “Assess This Video” (explained below)
  • Continue having 3 treat parties per day (at least 3 weeks total)
  • Practice Find It
  • Optional: purchase a basket muzzle if you plan on doing up-close work at some point and your dog has bitten, air-snapped, or otherwise has warned you that she may bite.

MORE LEASH SKILLS PRACTICE – WITH YOUR DOG

Work in a safe area with the leash on the back of the harness. Practice with your regular leash on walks whenever it makes sense to do so.

  • Using a short leash (6 feet / 2 meters):
    • Handle
    • Slide
    • Slow Stop
    • Relax the Leash
    • Mime Pulling – Your dog isn’t the student here, you are. When you practice mime pulling, give your dog some ‘hazard pay’ by pointing out some interesting spot to smell or tossing the treat on the floor ahead of you when he moves away with you. This also has the side benefit of making him more responsive to mime pulling.
  • Using a long line (12-15 feet / 4-5 meters). Move away from your dog and walk back as you shorten and length. Also set up situations where your dog will move away and toward you, at various speeds.
    • Shorter
    • Longer
  • Put it all together to practice each of these skills with a long line as your dog does “Sprinkles.”  Try to follow your dog and stay out of the way. Only use the ‘control’ skills when needed (Slide, Slow Stop, Mime Pulling).
    • Handle
    • Slide (use only when you need to get the dog’s attention)
    • Slow Stop (use only if the dog is headed somewhere where he should not yet go)
    • Relax the Leash
    • Mime Pulling (use only when you need to get the dog to come away immediately and calling hasn’t worked)
    • Shorter
    • Longer

Here’s a tip to get good video to watch later, it to a short clip to share for to your peers to discuss in the ABBA Facebook group. Work in a small enough area with your tripod in the corner, so that your dog will not stray too far from the camera. You can also set up some stations with smells (treats under cones, etc.) so your dog will move in more predictable ways.

ASSESS THIS VIDEO

Watch this video again and note (for yourself) the times that each of the BAT Leash Skills listed above are used. For the control skills in particular, why do you think they were used at each point?

For example, you can’t see it with the camera angle, but at 0:10, we used mime pulling and verbally called Archie to move him away from the trigger. He had clearly gone over threshold. Later there’s an exception to the rule of not doing a Slow Stop when the dog is moving away from the trigger. You should wonder why that was done, because it’s not for the dog – in this case, it was because he was headed toward an off-limits area (students were testing and could not be disturbed).[/s2If]

Lesson 6: “Find It” and Equipment

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

FIND IT

This is really useful as a distraction for times when the trigger is too close to your dog in real life. The goal is to be able to say Find It and have your dog’s nose drop immediately to the floor to search for treats. To train Find It, have a treat that your dog loves in your hand. Say Find It a second before you toss the treat on the ground near your dog. At first, your dog should see you tossing the treat, but after several times, start to have her use her nose to find it. For example, you can drop the treat behind your back and then say Find It.

You can hide the treats a few feet away as you distract her with your other hand. You can drop treats one onto the sidewalk as your dog walks ahead of you, then stop and say Find It. Get creative. If your dog doesn’t find it right away, that’s fine, as long as she is searching for it. If she stops searching, it was too challenging, so make it easier next time.

If your dog is not really excited about food, get better treats, go to an area where she is less stressed, or try Find It with a toy instead.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135901151″]

EQUIPMENT FOR WORKING WITH REACTIVITY

We already discussed some of these in the last lesson, but here’s the full list:

  • Harness. Have a front attachment if you need more help controlling your dog around triggers on walks. Attach to the rear for BAT set-ups if you feel safe doing so. Make sure the harness fits your dog well.
  • 12-15 foot leash (4-5 meters) for set-ups.
  • 6-15 foot leash for walks. Wait use the longer leash until you become comfortable using it safely, even if your dog were to jump at something. Shorten the leash up at corners and have your dog wait as you check to see what’s around it. Never allow your dog to go around a corner without you.
  • Treats. Especially useful for walks, or for making the training area more interesting.
  • Treat pouch. Don’t always have your treats in a pouch, and don’t always have the treats on your body. But treats are a great way to reinforce coming back to you and a pouch is pretty convenient for walks. What else can you use as a reinforcer?
  • Muzzle. A basket muzzle is ideal, like the Baskerville Ultra or the Italian Basket Muzzle. Used for close-up work when no fence is available to put between your dog and the trigger.
  • Fight break-up tools (will hopefully never be necessary). Like Spray Shield, blankets, water bottle, fog horn, etc.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135899304″]

What’s not on my equipment list:

Please replace any gear that is uncomfortable or meant to correct / punish your dog’s behavior. BAT gives dogs confidence and allows them to practice good social skills. It works by reducing stress and teaching the dog that he can control his own comfort level by moving his own body. You may not feel ready to promise to go without your favorite tools forever, but you wouldn’t be here if what you had tried so far was perfect. To give BAT a full chance to work, please go without these tools for at least the 6 weeks of this course:

  • head collars*
  • prong collars
  • check chains
  • collars (don’t attach the leash there, but of course you can use them for ID tags)
  • e-collars
  • spray bottles
  • pssst sounds, loud, gruff voices, etc.

* If you feel you really must have a head collar for walks, please get a double-ended leash and clip one end to the front of a harness and the other to the head collar. Use the harness for most communication with the leash and the head collar only as an emergency back-up.[/s2If]

Lesson 5: Body Language

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]
Week 2:

  • Body Language: when to stay out of the way and when to jump in to help
  • Find It
  • Equipment for working with reactivity
  • More leash skills practice – with your dog
  • Assess video posted online

BODY LANGUAGE

When you do BAT, it’s important to be able to understand and predict as much of your dog’s behavior as you can. This is actually true even if you aren’t doing BAT, too, so a nice benefit of doing BAT is that you will be able to learn more about what your dog is doing. When you can’t predict your dog might do next and you have no control over the situation, it’s scary and when it’s scary, people tend to use techniques that aren’t necessary.

For example, let’s say that your dog barks and jumps out at a child as you walk by. You might be embarrassed or scared. Because of previous training, self-preservation, or something you saw on TV, you might give the leash a quick pop or even lift the dog in the air. You might pin him to the ground in an attempt to teach him not to do that next time.

Unfortunately, that type of training can backfire and the dog can get much worse instead of better, like turning to bite you when he feels pressure on the leash. It might just teach your dog to ‘lie’ to you by eliminating the warning signs (like growling), so he holds it all in and then bites out of the blue one day. Even when it ‘works’ you might be creating an adversarial relationship when what you really got a dog for is companionship.

On the other hand, you might be savvy enough to know that you can prevent a reaction by talking to your dog or giving him a treat whenever he sees children, so that he starts to look at you instead of worrying about the child. That’s certainly an option and something you’ll keep in your toolbox. It won’t be something you need during your BAT set-ups, but it may still come in handy on walks.

The good news is that whether you have tried the first techniques described or the second one, the observational skills you used so far will come in handy.

BAT gives dogs more responsibility for their own actions, with natural consequences, so that we don’t have to micromanage all of the time. What we do need to do is read our dogs’ subtle body cues to know when they need to be left alone to learn and when they need to be helped.  BAT gives dogs a safety net without taking away their opportunity to learn naturally.

In more old-fashioned training, the handler is looking for the moment that the dog does the ‘wrong’ behavior in order to punish the behavior. So when you see your dog close his mouth, start to bark, or even look at the other dog, that might be the time you would have given a correction. It is still important to recognize such moments, but we will interpret them differently.

In BAT, you’ll carefully arrange your training sessions so there is no lunging, barking, etc., but sometimes it happens. If you do see something going ‘wrong,’ it’s not that the dog has made a mistake, it is that the set-up is too difficult for him. Your role is totally different than it was before, but your quick response is just as important now. Think of yourself as the lifeguard and you see your swimmer start to flail and drown. You won’t wait for their head to go under and then yell at them.

At the earliest moment that you see that the dog is no longer able to handle the situation on his own, encourage your dog away from the trigger and back to a place where he’s able to stay relaxed without your help. One of the skills that you will take with you into a BAT set-up is the patience to not interrupt the dog when he’s doing well. If you arrange the situation carefully in advance, you will get a lot of opportunity to let the dog figure things out on his own.

On the other hand, if you are used to feeding your dog just after he sees a trigger, then you have been looking for the moment of connection with the trigger. It’s good that you can recognize that moment and see it as a positive thing. With BAT, you’ll now be working without the food, most of the time, so you will probably need to be much further away.

We want the dog to be able to notice that the trigger is there and move on without your help. You’ll have to contain yourself and not always interrupt the moment that your dog sees the trigger. If he’s relaxed (tail neutral, breathing normal, muscles soft, body at an angle instead of pointed right at the trigger) then just take it in and move on. This is where some of the desensitization happens, meaning that your dog has a chance to take in information and move on at his own pace. One of the skills that you take with you into BAT is the knowledge that we have to set the dog up to succeed.

In the illustration below, the water represents the stress level and the dog’s ability to relax himself. As she goes deeper into the ‘water’ your dog will need more help. When she is on the shore, she needs the space to learn without micromanagement. We want the dog to stay in the Green and Blue areas at all times. I’ll give you tips on what you can do in each of the colored areas, but read through this chart just to get a feel for how the body language changes as the dog gets more and more excited/stressed by the trigger.

top-support-scale-700px
Click image to enlarge

In this picture, the shoreline is what I’ll refer to as the threshold. Your dog is over threshold if he needs some help from you in order to move on. We will say he is below threshold if he is doing the behaviors in the green area (dog is not avoiding trigger, he knows where the trigger is but is not bothered to give it more than passing glances) or the blue area (dog cares and may need to get some information but he is able to easily move on).

Think about situations in the past where your dog has been in each of those colored areas. Don’t worry too much about splitting up yellow, orange, and red, unless you are a trainer. The important part is the line between whether you have to do something or the dog can handle things on his own.

Watch these two videos. At one point in the first video, the dog enters the ‘blue zone.’ Look for it! In the second video, There is a spot where the dog is near the yellow zone, but I still consider it blue zone because the dog is able to turn away on his own in a reasonable time, without prompting.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135901022″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135894169″]

Combine your understanding of the ocean chart with Leash Skills:

The leash walking skills that we have practiced are designed to help us stay in the green and blue zones. They can also be signs that your dog is having trouble during your set-up. If your dog doesn’t easily respond to the Slow Stop during a set-up, for example, then you are working too close to the trigger.

This week, practice doing the leash skills in an area where it is easy for you and your dog. If they aren’t working, you are either not doing them correctly (for example, you are pulling on the dog instead of doing pretend pulling with the mime pulling), the area is not interesting enough for your dog to explore with his nose, or the area may have too many triggers.

[/s2If]

Lesson 4: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

For each ‘week’ of lessons, we put in this Pause to Practice so that you won’t just read through without practicing. Feel free to pause to practice anywhere along the way, too!

Again, we don’t expect it to just take one week for many people. Take your time to get it right. The leash skills are the key to doing BAT well.

  1. Sit down and write out your goals for your dog. Are they realistic? What measurable goal do you think can you achieve in the next month?
  2. Film yourself doing leash handling with a human. Watch your video and look critically at each skill. Are you holding the Handle the same way? Is it a tight bracelet? Do you have enough braking distance? Are you gathering in figure 8’s or accidentally gathering in loops?
  3. Do a “Sprinkles” exercise with your dog, as described by Sally Hopkins. Practice quiet off leash near your dog.
  4. Repeat the above exercise, on leash, using the BAT handling skills that promote freedom (handle, braking distance, shorter,longer). Only use the control skills if needed (Slow Stop, Slide Mime Pulling).
  5. Written assessment: Type out some comments below your video to point out any places where you did especially well or could have done better. Include specific times, like 0:22 – 0:33. One of the things I want to teach you in this course is to look at your own videos objectively and look for places you can continually improve. Please ignore the size of your own backside. 🙂 This is just for you, mostly.
  6. Optional: Cut to a short clip to share for to your peers to discuss in the ABBA Facebook group.
  7. Practice 3 treat parties a day.
  8. Play this game with a friend. Face each other with a leash draped in the palm of your left hands, so that both of you have the same amount of extra leash hanging down. Both do Slide at the same time (so you’ll reach with your right hands first, under the leash). Both of you do Slide 10 times (5 times per hand) and then notice who has more leash at this point. The person with the least leash is the ‘winner,’ because Slide is not about pulling the leash, just gently letting it slide through your hands. [This is more fair if the leash has clips on both ends or is just a rope, so the clip doesn’t weigh things down.]

[/s2If]

Lesson 3: (BAT Overview) Treat Party – not really BAT but GREAT!

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

At least three times a day, take a full 30 seconds to reward your dog for coming to you. Start in a quiet place where you have no treats on you, but they are available (in a cupboard, etc.). Out of the blue, say “Treat Party” and then run to the cupboard, and start the party. Some of the time the treats can be on you, but make sure that treats aren’t always there before the party begins. Otherwise, the treats become the cue, not the Treat Party phrase that you are trying to teach.

Continue rehearsing treat party at least a few times a day for at least a few months. As you feed or play with toys, say the cue/phrase over and over, like Treat Party, the whole time I’m tossing out treats on the floor. Be sure to cue Treat Party before she knows that you have treats, so the phrase predicts the party. Treat Party is an emergency cue for coming back to you.

Say the Treat Party cue only when your dog is definitely coming to you, and then repeat the cue during before each treat during the feeding (or playing) process. I use the goofy cue of Treat Party because I want you to keep the parties coming, so that that cue stays strong, even if all else fails. Make sure you also remember to say the emergency cue in a real emergency. Practice in many different locations, but be sure it’s the right level of distraction. Set it up so that your dog will definitely come to you when you say Treat Party.

VIDEO NOTE:

I really like video because it gives me a chance to see where I can improve. Expect to see videos in this course where I follow up with an explanation of how I could have done better.  You can post your videos for peer discussion in the ABBA Facebook group. If you do so, please be (emotionally) ready for suggestions from your fellow students and any CBATIs in the group on how you can improve.

Catch yourself doing things right in the videos, but it will probably not be perfect. If you do post video to the group, point out what went well and also be sure to note times when you could have done better, and explain how. This is a good opportunity for you to learn.

For example, in my leash video above, the dog is wearing a flat collar because we had no other gear. I would really, really prefer to have her in a harness. I use the rear clip for BAT set-ups, unless more control is needed for safety.

[/s2If]

Lesson 2: (BAT Overview) Leash Skills

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

The leash skills are extremely essential in BAT, because they give a sense of freedom while still being safe. Be sure to get these down before you do your BAT set-ups. They are harder than they look and they take time to practice, so be patient with yourself.

Practice having a quiet body. The first leash skill isn’t really about the leash, it’s about you. Follow the dog whenever you can (when it’s safe). This doesn’t mean standing behind her all the time, but it means watching how your body might accidentally encourage her to go in a particular direction. You can even practice this off leash in your yard with treats scattered around or on a walk in the woods. Stay near her, but out of the way while she sniffs. (Only do that if it’s safe!)

Here’s a video of me doing some leash skills with Peanut. There is no planned trigger here, I’m just doing them to get them on film, like you will do for your homework. Notice that the goal is for me to stay out of his way.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/131015410″]

Now here’s a video demonstrating some of the other leash skills used for control (Slow Stop, Slide, Mime Pulling). Notice that I have the very opposite of a quiet body here – I’m very obviously leading her around a BUNCH. This is just for a demo. You do not need to do this much controlling in a good BAT set-up (and if you do, then stop the session and change something, either the environment or your own level of bossiness).

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135900521″]

Here’s me describing the leash skills in another way:

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135890737″]

Please download the leash skills handout PDF from the public Handouts Page. Practice each of these skills. Watch the video above before you try them out with a friend. Here are a few illustrations to help you.

animated-slowstop

Slow stop is used any time you need to stop the dog without the added distraction of calling verbally.

Mime pulling is used to get the dog to turn and go with you, when calling away isn’t enough.  The illustration below shows the “Slide” aspect of mime pulling. Your front hand doesn’t grip the leash, it just slides through to create a vibration. Your hand can even be flat. Use slightly more braking distance than this illustration.

animated-mimepulling

PRACTICE

Using a friend as your ‘dog,’ practice the following skills. I know you are eager to jump ahead, but please practice this for a while without your dog. During the exercises, the human-dog should walk upright (as humans do) and hold the leash clip at his/her waist (target the belly button).

The person should give you feedback on how it feels. If you don’t have a human to practice with, tie your leash to a chair. For Slide, slow stop, and mime pulling, swap roles with your friend so you can see what it feels like.

  • Using a short leash (6 feet / 2 meters), practice:
    • Handle
    • Slide
    • Slow Stop
    • Relax the Leash
    • Mime Pulling
  • Using a long line (12-15 feet / 4-5 meters), practice by having yourself move away and toward the ‘dog’ and also having your human ‘dog’ move away and toward you, at various speeds:
    • Shorter
    • Longer
  • Put it all together to practice each of these skills with a long line, and post clips from this part (try to show each skill, no more than 2 minutes total).
    • Handle
    • Slide
    • Slow Stop
    • Relax the Leash
    • Mime Pulling
    • Shorter
    • Longer

[/s2If]

Lesson 1: (BAT Overview) What is BAT?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

We have the lessons clustered into weeks, but don’t be put off by that if you need to take more time. It’s very common to spend 2-3 weeks on each “week” of lessons from here.

Week 1: BAT Overview

  • What is BAT?
  • Leash Skills: Staying out of the dog’s path, Handle, Slide, Slow Stop, Relax the Leash, Mime Pulling, Shorter, Longer
  • Practice leash skills with people (Gold level: submit video & written assessment)
  • Training: Treat Parties (not officially BAT but very useful)

WHAT IS BAT?

The answer to that question depends on who you are and how much you know about dogs. This course is intended for all audiences, so I’ll give a general answer first.

BAT helps dogs practice social skills in a way that improves confidence and self control. Your dog has a chance to practice being relaxed and ‘normal’ around other dogs, people, etc. We are used to constantly cueing and helping our dogs in order to keep them within the range of socially acceptable behavior. Wouldn’t it be so much better if they just did it on their own, naturally?

BAT stands for Behavior Adjustment Training because we focus on adjusting the behavior within the natural set of consequences. BAT could stand for Boring Aggression Training. The goal is to have a dog whose response to people or other dogs is boring: no barking, lunging, growling, etc., and no need for you to micromanage to make that happen. The dog has a chance to practice controlling his own safety and stress level, with us providing a safety net. With BAT, we rehearse being boring (but not bor-ed), over and over!

[php]
// $provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”121320538″;
QandAiFrame($provider, “”,$codeRecording)
[/php]

There may never be a BAT television show. BAT’s boring to do and even more boring to watch. If you do it right, there are no super exciting moments of barking or even frantically feeding or cueing. You just set up situations where your dog can be a dog and learn how to be boring. Let’s take a look at some BAT set-ups in the following videos.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135900164″]

And another so you can see a more in-depth session from one dog:

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135890732″]

BAT has three major components:

  • Leash Handling Skills
  • Set-ups
  • Survival Skills / Mark & Move

Good leash skills allow freedom of movement for the dog (or horse) and they are the foundation of BAT. It is important to know that your movement affects your dog’s movement and mood. If you compete in agility, obedience, or other sports, you know that your dog follows your shoulders, where you look, etc. Most of the BAT set-ups are done on a 12-15 foot leash for safety (4-5 meters). Any small pressure on the leash during your regular walks and training set-ups will also change the dynamic, so I want you to be aware of different ways to move that are less intrusive to your dog’s learning process.

BAT set-ups are rehearsals for relaxed behavior, like I mentioned above, where your dog can practice being boring (i.e., not ‘reactive’). You will use survival skills when you train up close to triggers and in real-life situations that your dog can’t yet handle on his own. (I’ll swap genders around in my lectures, so please don’t be offended if I call your dog a boy when she’s a girl).

Survival skills and BAT set-ups are both essential. We will cover both of them in this course and more deeply cover each of them in other courses. If you only ever do the survival skills, then you have to micromanage your dog forever. You have a ‘trained’ dog instead of one that looks and acts like a well-socialized dog. If you only do the BAT set-ups, then your progress will be slowed down or may never happen because your dog keeps getting traumatized or practicing reactive behavior out in the real world.

The first thing I want to cover is leash skills. We will cover more in-depth survival skills in week 3, but for now, let’s just reduce the barking until you’re ready to do BAT. Carry some amazing meaty/cheesy treats with you on your walks. If your dog sees one of his ‘triggers’ (another dog, person, whatever it is that makes him bark, lunge, pull, act fearful, etc.) call his name just before you feed him some of those treats and walk in the other direction. So for now: call and feed your dog treats just after he sees any trigger on walks.

[/s2If]

Course Overview (Syllabus)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the BAT 101 course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

HOW TO USE THESE LESSONS

Read through the lessons at your own pace. Every 2-4 lessons, we will pause to give you some tasks to practice. Each set of lessons with practice is meant to take about a week or so.

If you haven’t already signed up for membership, consider doing so because it is a great way to stay motivated. One thing members get is access to Grisha’s ABBA Facebook group. You can post videos and ask/answer questions in a discussion with your fellow ABBA members. The group is moderated by our teaching staff to keep the conversations on track.

The agenda is listed with weekly lessons, but you can take whatever time you need.  Most people actually take about 2 weeks per lesson. You keep access to the course on our site and can log in any time.

Week 1

  • Overview of BAT
  • Leash Skills: Handle, Slide, Slow Stop, Mime Pulling, Shorter, Longer
  • Practice leash skills with people
  • Treat Parties

Week 2

  • Body Language: when to stay out of the way and when to jump in to help
  • Find It
  • Equipment for working with reactivity
  • More Leash skills practice – with your dog
  • Assess video posted online

Week 3

  • Mark and Move and other Survival Skills
  • Practice Survival Skills
  • Assess body language of your own dog
  • Recruit help for next week’s BAT set-up

Week 4

  • BAT Set-Ups (why, what helpers do, safety, picking the right space)
  • Do a BAT Set-Up

Week 5

  • Troubleshooting BAT Set-Ups
  • Do a BAT Set-Up

Week 6

  • Training up close or in small spaces
  • Do a BAT Set-Up

Recommended Equipment:

  • Long leash, 10-15 feet (or two 6-foot leashes clipped together). I recommend (and sell) the round, comfortable Mendota leashes.
  • Dog harness with rear attachment. I recommend the Perfect Fit, Balance, or XtraDog Harnesses, which have leash rings on both back and front.
  • A person to help you with BAT leash skills practice (they will walk around being the practice dog at the end of your leash for one session).
  • A dog with mild to severe reactivity directed at dogs or people (‘triggers’) – from mild fear or frustration through big issues. This course is not appropriate for dogs with generalized anxiety (i.e., anxious and worried about everything, all the time) or only resource guarding (which is dealt with more easily in other ways). This ‘student dog’ can be your own dog or a client’s dog, but you must be ablet to practice with the same dog during the whole course and have permission to film those sessions.
  • Access to a large enriched/interesting training area in which the student dog is willing to explore and is only mildly interested in the trigger without handler distraction. This may be indoors, but is usually outdoors.
  • Access to a helper dog or person (trigger), preferably more than one.
  • For your own assessment, we recommend a Video camera and a way to film yourself training. If you are an ABBA member, you can post videos to Facebook to discuss as a group with occasional instructor feedback.

What’s Next?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

Please keep working with your dog on all of the activities you learned in the course. You can keep working and check back here any time.

If you haven’t already signed up for membership, consider doing so because it is a great way to stay motivated. One thing members get is access to Grisha’s ABBA Facebook group. You can post videos and ask/answer questions in a discussion with your fellow ABBA members. The group is moderated by our teaching staff to keep the conversations on track.

The ability to keep arousal low and respond without frustration are more important than tricks and other showy things. Focus on skills that improve your dog’s quality of life.

Keep filming your training sessions so that you can look back to see how far you have come. As you review your videos over time, focus on where your dog has improved, how you have improved, and what your dog can do now that wasn’t possible at some point in the past.

The BAT 2.0 Feature Films might be helpful to you. Here are the topics.

  • Talk with Me (2-way Communication)
  • Walk with Me
  • Problem Prevention
  • Survival Skills
  • BAT 2.0 Set-Ups
  • BAT for Geeks

Other courses: 

Thanks!

Only good things,
Grisha

[/s2If]

Lesson 20: (Predictability) How to Add Predictability

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

“WHAT DO YOU WANT ME TO DO?”

Distress is minimized when there is both predictability and control. Help your dog understand what to do in specific situations by reinforcing that behavior in a timely way and also by giving a specific and clear cue for the situation.

There are more cues than just your words or hand signals. Your body language, the location, the odors, the equipment around, what you are wearing, all of that is part of the context for the dog. It all helps him know what kind of behavior you’re looking for in that particular situation.

When your dog offers the ‘wrong’ behavior, it may be because of an unclear signal. So maybe you have always said, “Sit” and moved your hand at the same time. In competition, you try saying only. “Sit,” and your dog does nothing. He’s not stubborn, it’s just that the word “sit” is not the signal your dog has been paying attention to; he’s been looking at your hand.

Similarly, if you reinforce multiple behaviors with the one cue, that’s also confusing, particularly when you are picky sometimes and other times generous. If you make your signals more reliable, your dog will be less confused and more responsive.

“WHAT WORKS HERE?”

As I mentioned earlier in this course and even in this lecture, controllability helps reduce stress and frustration. Knowing when something is out of your control, when no reinforcer is possible, for example, is also useful. That’s where our All Done cue comes in handy. It tells dogs when reinforcement is no longer available.

HOW TO ADD PREDICTABILITY TO YOUR DOG’S LIFE

Look at things from  your dog’s perspective this week. What things do you think she is not sure about, in terms of what is going to happen or what she should do?

  • You just got up from the couch. Are you leaving the house? Going to the kitchen?
  • Are we going for a walk?
  • Or am I staying home?
  • Am I going outside?
  • Is it mealtime?
  • For the love of Dog, when are you going to feed me?!
  • Are you trying to escape through the bathroom or will you be coming back?
  • Is it my bath time?
  • Do I get to say hi to that dog this time or not?
  • May I clean out that bowl?
  • May I get up on the bed tonight?

Some of the times we can handle the predictability by just never having that event come to pass. For example, you could say that your dog will never get to greet other dogs when on leash or will never clean off your dinner plates. But if you are going to allow it some of the time and not others, help your dog out by giving her a crystal clear signal of when it will happen and when it won’t.

[/s2If]

Lesson 19: (Predictability) Why Predictability and Consistency are Important

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

Week 6: Predictability and Consistency

  • Why Predictability and Consistency are Important
  • “What do you want me to do?”
  • “What works here?”
  • How to Add Predictability to Your Dog’s Life
  • Homework: BAT Set-Up for Frustration

WHY PREDICTABILITY AND CONSISTENCY ARE IMPORTANT

“Trust is built with consistency.”

-Lincoln Chafee

When we act in a consistent way, our dogs are able to predict when good things will happen to them, when aversive things like blood draws must happen to them, and when they do and do not have control over these events.

A lot of the frustration behavior that we see from dogs comes from an inability to predict what will happen to them, and when. There are multiple types of predictability, including temporal predictability (an event happens at a certain time of day or after a set duration) and signaled predictability (a stimulus precedes the event).

When animals are given the option of choosing between predictable and unpredictable aversive or appetitive events, the opt for predictability. This doesn’t mean there is no stress if they know shock is coming, but they are able to handle it more easily, in the short term, if they know it’s coming. In particular, what seems to be the most useful is to know when something IS NOT going to happen. This applies to both appetitive experiences (like snack time) and aversive experiences (like cleaning a bird’s cage).

Bassett & Buchanan-Smith (2007) have an intriguing collection of information in their survey paper discussing predictability and humane care. One thing that jumped out at me was a summary of Carlstead’s 1986 work, which demonstrated that unreliable signaling can lead to frustration behavior at mealtimes. Here’s an example at mealtime with pigs. Does it sound familiar?

Carlstead manipulated the signalled predictability of feeding by changing the reliability of signals (in the form of a bell) announcing the arrival of food to pigs. Food was delivered, from an automated hopper, on an unpredictable temporal schedule with the bell being the only information available to the pigs concerning the onset of feeding. The animals initially received food preceded by reliable signals. However, when these signals became unreliable, low predictability was found to be associated with frustration, which led to aggression and increased competition for food.

In a second experiment, pigs consistently receiving unreliable feeding signals showed a significant increase in aggressive interactions, mainly following unexpected disturbances in the environment. The author suggests that this increase was because pigs exposed to unreliable feeding signals treated these unexpected environmental noises as potential feeding signals. The failure of these ‘signals’ to be followed by food led to increased frustration and aggression. This did not occur in pigs which received reliable signals, however, as there was only one unmistakable signal associated with feeding, and therefore unexpected noises were not responded to as unreliable indicators of feeding time.

Also of note: when something is predictable and then stops being so, it’s even more frustrating than if there is no predictability in the first place. Ponder that in terms of rehoming, board and train, or people who attend classes and then stop doing so.

If you are a trainer, really get that message of predictability across to your clients. If you learn nothing else from this course, please learn this big: help your dog feel a sense of control and predictability, and you’ll eliminate most, if not all, of your issues.

Here’s a list of recommendations from Bassett & Buchanan-Smith (2007). [Click here for their full paper, “Effects of predictability on the welfare of captive animals.”]

Recommendations for animal management and husbandry

  1. There should be a thorough evaluation of both positive and negative husbandry and management routines in terms of temporal and (often unintentional) signaled predictability, and welfare should be assessed prior to positive and negative events.
  2. If possible, negative (aversive) events should be made temporally predictable, and any unreliable (often unintentional) signals should be removed where feasible.
  3. A unique and reliable signal to indicate the onset of an aversive event should also be introduced to decrease stress, but the beneficial effects should be scientifically demonstrated before widespread practice is adopted. Care must be taken to ensure the signal only refers to the individual for whom the event will take place, and not be a (unreliable) signal for the whole group.
  4. Training animals can be a useful management tool to provide improved care of captive animals. Positive reinforcement training increases the control and predictability the animals have and should be used to provide welfare benefits. [This is where the More Please Signal comes in]
  5. Every effort should be made to avoid delays to events occurring on a (usually) reliable temporally predictable schedule, as delays (loss of temporal predictability) have a negative impact on welfare.
  6. Food-Anticipatory Activity (some of which is undesirable) is primarily seen with animals which are food restricted (and fed on a predictable schedule), constituting an additional welfare concern to this practice.
  7. If possible, temporally unpredictable feeding should be introduced (although note that the benefits have only been demonstrated in a limited range of species). Unreliable signals relating to feeding should be eliminated if possible, and a unique reliable signal introduced.

The good news is that means we don’t have to feed at the same exact time every day, we just need to have a way for our dogs to predict when it’s happening. The more control they have over the process, the better. For example if your dog gets that food by foraging in the yard or by waiting patiently in a stay as you prepare the meal, it will be less stressful than just hopping around and barking in frustration.

Another piece of information on predictability that might be interesting comes from a study of fish (Vindas, et al., 2014). The smaller fish in the group are generally “submissive” in the sense that they give others priority access to food or other recourses if there is a conflict. The smaller fish were split into two groups. The experimental group was basically frustrated before an encounter with a larger fish in a contest for food. The frustration was created by having a signal that normally predicted food NOT lead to food that time. The control group was not frustrated in this way prior to the encounter. There was significantly more aggression from the smaller fish who had been frustrated first.

Keep this in mind in terms of resource guarding between dogs. Predictability is your friend in multi-dog households. When you’re handing out treats, for example, say the name of the dog who is going to receive it. This becomes a signal to that dog that food is coming, but is also a signal to the others that the food is not for them. It’s predictable.

Resources

Bassett, L., & Buchanan-Smith, H. M. (2007). Effects of predictability on the welfare of captive animals. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 102(3), 223-245.

Vindas, M. A., Johansen, I. B., Vela-Avitua, S., Nørstrud, K. S., Aalgaard, M., Braastad, B. O., & Øverli, Ø. (2014). Frustrative reward omission increases aggressive behaviour of inferior fighters. Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, 281(1784), 201403.

[/s2If]

Lesson 18: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

HOMEWORK

  • Continue conditioning relaxation and training the On/Off Switch as time allows.
  • Practice Silky Leash with your dog. Use the back of the harness for the attachment rather than the collar shown in the videos. Use either Slide or the light steady pressure shown in the video (just enough to lift the leash clip). Work at your dog’s pace.
  • Do a BAT Set-up with your dog, using something/someone that your dog wants to get to as the trigger. If you can’t get a dog or person helper, you can use a treat bag or toy on the ground or a table. I recommend filming and looking at your dogs body language. Actually write it out for yourself. Pay attention to where you use Mark and Move versus the “regular” BAT 2.0 set-up. Think about where there is room for improvement in your technique, especially any times you accidentally lead your dog toward the trigger.

    Be sure to not mix up your BAT practice and Silky Leash practice. You should not need to move the dog around much during your BAT set-up. Most of it will be done just by following your dog, and if you do a Slow Stop, you will then Relax the Leash right away, not waiting for her to do so as you would in Silky Leash.

[/s2If]

Lesson 17: (Leash Training) Silky Leash Method

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

TRAINING: SILKY LEASH TECHNIQUE FOR LOOSE LEASH WALKING

Silky Leash is not part of BAT, it is a technique for leash walking. It teaches a dog to pay attention to the feeling of very light pressure on the harness. Any time we can use body language or verbal cues to get the dog to move with us, that’s better, but sometimes there ends up being information passed down the leash, and this technique helps it happen clearly, without pain or pressure.

Here are some clips of me doing Silky Leash many years ago. Now that I pretty much always use harnesses when walking any dog, I would do this technique on the back of a harness instead. You can also do this with Slide on the leash versus doing any actual gripping of the leash. That may help you use the appropriate amount of pressure, which should be so tiny that it barely puts the leash in a straight line between you and your dog.

The feeling of the leash should not be something the dog is working to avoid. It should be so light that he notices it and only happens to move in the direction you want. As he is reinforced for the movement, your dog will learn to move that way on purpose.

For the videos below I talk about using a flat collar for this. This is an older video. I prefer that all dogs walk on harnesses now, so I’d recommend doing this on your dog’s harness. You can also use the Slide leash skill from BAT, and reinforce when your dog notices.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135893147″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135893146″]

This is an excerpt from my book, The Official Ahimsa Dog Training Manual:

So what is Silky Leash? That’s the name I’ve given to a technique first brought to my attention by the online posts of Shirley Chong, an amazing clicker trainer. For the Silky Leash method, think of guiding your dog along with a single strand of silk. The basic idea is to put the tiniest bit of pressure on the leash and reward the dog for moving toward the leash. Dogs, like human toddlers, have a strong opposition reflex: if you pull on them, they will pull away. Silky Leash isn’t about pulling the dog around, but it teaches her that any light pressure on the leash is a signal to move in that direction, rather than a trap from which she must escape.

Silky Leash has several steps. You will need to really follow this technique to the letter to teach your dog to notice the lightest flutter of your leash, even around big distractions. Until things are going really well using the Silky leash method, clip your leash to the front ring of a harness for your walks or attach a double-ended leash to the front ring and the collar, using only Silky Leash flutters for the back of the harness.

There are two students here—you are learning to give instructions by leash very softly and your dog is learning to listen to them. If things aren’t working, examine both students! Stay at each step below until your dog is responding quickly.

As your dog gets better at this, you’ll start to practice on real walks, but at first, you will set up the whole situation so you have full control. In the meantime, walk your dog in a harness or some other type of temporary gear on any walks (or parts of walks) where your dog might pull.

Step 1. Sitting in a Tiny Room—dog takes one step. With a hungry dog in a tiny, non-distracting area, like a bathroom or exercise pen, set up a chair for you and have the clicker in your hand and treats accessible. I usually have treats in a pouch and the clicker and leash in the same hand (my right). The leash is attached to harness–whatever you eventually want to walk your dog on. The room should be small enough that when you sit in the chair, your dog cannot pull—the walls are closer than the length of the leash.

If a friend had a collar around your neck and she wanted your attention, you wouldn’t want her to yank on the leash. Your dog agrees! Pretend that you have a raw egg in your palm, with the leash wrapped around it. Say the amount of pressure your normally put on your dog to stop him is 100; what we’re looking for here is about 1 (so one percent of what you’d use to stop your dog).

Put a tiny, tiny bit of pressure on the leash, just enough to straighten it out. Keep the pressure low and wait. If your dog pulls away from the pressure, let your hand go with him, so that the pressure stays constant. Eventually, as your dog is not a frozen statue, and the room is small, he will move in the direction of the pull and the pressure will lower.

The clasp of the leash will probably dip down. Click and treat. If you are tired of waiting, you may vibrate the leash, just as a tiny chick’s heart flutters. After each click/treat, give your dog a few seconds to pause and then put pressure on the leash again. I hesitate to use the word “pull” here because that sounds a lot more forceful than what you should be doing. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Step 2. Sitting in a Tiny Room—dog takes two or more steps. Now you raise your criteria. Instead of just one step to ease off the pressure, we want more, about twice as far as your dog moved before! Remember that you are not trying to drag the dog around, but rather saying to the dog, “Move this way until I signal you to stop.” You aren’t putting enough pressure on the leash to make the dog move, just enough to signal that you’d like him to.

What you’ll do is just apply pressure a little longer than before. So you pull lightly on the leash (no harder than before, remember, this is your friend!) and when the dog moves toward the pressure, move slightly away from him, so the pressure stays constant. As he takes the second step, stop pulling away. The leash pressure will become zero again and you’ll click/treat. Repeat many times.

Shirley Chong wrote, “At this stage, it may well take the dog a while to notice the cue and respond. That is perfectly okay. For dogs who have been pulling for a period of time (YEARS for some of them!), it is going to take them awhile to re-calibrate what it is that they pay attention to.” Be patient with your dog!

Remember, we’re teaching your hands to be gentler, too. How are you doing? J

Step 3. Sitting in a Tiny Room—dog walks in a circle. If your dog is tall, you may have to stand for this step, but sit if you can. The goal for this step is to get your dog to move in a full circle cued only by leash pressure. Repeat Step 2, but now just wait longer and longer before clicking—ease off on the pressure later and later. Try both directions.

Step 4. Sitting in a Tiny Room—dog walks in a figure 8. Now we make the dog work a bit harder (and you!) by trying for a figure 8. Remember, you still want to have the finish be that the dog successfully got the pressure to go away and you click/treat for that. The main lesson here for the dog is that the pressure means something and that something is—go in the direction of the pull until it stops. Dogs have a natural reflex to go OPPOSITE of pulling, so we’re fighting against that.

Step 5. Walking in a Slightly Bigger Room—Follow the Leader. You’ll take turns playing follow the leader. Remember, we still don’t want a sudden jolt of pressure, so you may need to follow your dog (gasp) during this time. This is the one situation where I allow dogs to pull. The room should still be fairly boring, so they don’t want to pull a lot and small enough that you can follow them with constant pressure.

If things go awry at this stage, you probably didn’t practice the earlier steps enough times.

So you follow your dog for a while (no pressure) and then put a tiny bit of pressure on your dog. Click/treat when he eases up on the pressure (right away—no figure 8’s yet). If he walks into the pressure (i.e., pulls), follow him so that the pressure stays constant. Remember, this is supposed to be a smallish, boring room. Alternate back and forth between following him and then using a feather-light pressure to cue him to follow you. Gradually extend the number of steps your dog has to do before you allow the leash to go slack and then click and treat.

Step 6. Walking in a Slightly Bigger Area—Follow the Leader continues. This is where you head out to the yard. If you don’t have a yard, you might ask to use someone else’s house or an exercise pen that you’ve set up at a park, at least for the distractions. You want an area that you can still keep up with your dog in, so that may require cardboard boxes or ex-pens or something to make the area smaller. You can get fairly cheap temporary construction fencing from hardware stores.

Now you’ll be “practicing having your dog do turns, zig zags, serpentines and circles while you walk relatively straight within the confines of your area.” You are still clicking and treating your dog, as we’ve raised the criteria. If this setting is too distracting, practice more of this on Step 5 first. Don’t worry if your dog is distracted some of the time; that gives you a chance to flutter the leash and click/treat for him heading in your direction.

Remember that we’re imagining the leash to be a silken thread. It takes two to pull! You’ll still need to follow your dog if he heads off so you can keep the pressure constant and occasionally flutter.

You should still be walking your dog using a front-clip harness if your dog might pull you strongly. If he is at the end of a walk and is not likely to pull, go ahead and attach the leash the spot where you’d want to eventually walk all the time, like the back of the harness.

Step 7. The Real World. Now you’re ready for the big time. Continue to have soft hands, flutter your silky leash, and click/treat whenever your dog follows your cue. I would start with adding a few more distractions at a time, and walk in a place where it’s easy to go in any direction, rather than only two. In the best of all worlds, you’d be able to walk right past any distraction. At first, though, you may have to do a lot of “Transitions.”

Transitions are turns and speed changes.

Big distraction up ahead? Flutter the leash and take a right turn, take a wide arc around the distraction, or gradually turn away and retreat. Click/treat your dog for following each cue. Super-big distraction? You might want to clip the leash back to the harness for that one.

Over time, you’ll need to make fewer transitions and you’ll be clicking less and less as your dog gains confidence and skill. You’ll also be using more “real world” rewards, like squirrels in trees. The less your dog has practiced pulling before you started, the faster this process of weaning off of the treats will be.

More from Shirley Chong: “When walking your dog, remember the training principle of determining what your dog wants as a reinforcer and using that thing. If your dog wants to investigate the tree that the squirrel ran up, go there using transitions as needed; when you finally arrive, encourage your dog to investigate the tree.”

Keep it up, wean off of the treats, and do NOT let your dog practice pulling on the goal attachment (like the back clip) in between sessions. Remember, your dog is always learning. Shirley writes, “And then everyone will tell you ‘well, it’s easy for you, your dog just never pulls!’ You can just smile and mentally add the truth: your dog never pulls because you never pull.”

 

[/s2If]

Lesson 16: (BAT) History of BAT and Frustration

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

HISTORY OF BAT & FRUSTRATION

When I first developed BAT (that’s BAT 1.0), the technique was done differently based on two categories, where the functional reward here is the consequence gained by showing the reactive behavior:

  • Functional Reward = Moving toward the trigger
  • Functional Reward = Moving away from the trigger

I came up with the term “Frustrated Greeter” for those dogs whose functional reward was to approach the trigger and when they got there, they were friendly (but maybe inept). Having joined the No Labels movement, I now no longer use that term, but when I speak of dogs whose behavior fits that category, I say “dogs with frustration issues” or I talk about the barking/lunging from a distance as a “frustrated greeting.”

The BAT 1.0 technique for frustration was then to basically do Mark and Move (a BAT 2.0 term) but rather than moving away from the trigger, you’d mark and take a step closer to the trigger, since that’s what the dog most likely wants. This was indeed reinforcing (it’s the Premack principle, after all) and it worked in many cases but in some cases it would cause more arousal for the same reasons listed above where I say we shouldn’t lead the dog toward the trigger. I find that the current way of doing BAT for frustration is mellower and works more quickly.

As I’ve said before, if you want your dog to look like any other “boring” dog around various triggers, she needs to practice being boring (not bor-ed, though). So BAT 2.0, which is the relaxed exploration of an area, even with a trigger in the space, fits that model perfectly.
[/s2If]

Lesson 15: (BAT) Set-Ups to Work on Frustration

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

Week 5: BAT

  • BAT Set-Up for Frustration
  • History of BAT & Frustration
  • Training: Silky Leash Technique for Loose Leash Walking

BAT SET-UP FOR FRUSTRATION

The BAT set-ups for frustration look pretty much the same as they do for anything else. Work in an enriched environment and follow the dog, but a Slow Stop or walk to the side if the dog starts to walk directly at the trigger or is on the verge of overarousal. For example, if the dog is wearing a heart rate monitor and I see the rate going up, I might walk to the side, do a Slow Stop, or reduce the level of exciting activity from the Helper.

Here’s a reminder of what BAT set-ups look like.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/121320538″]

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135890732″]

There are small differences, however, when you’re focusing on frustration. When I’m sure that the motivation is frustration, I will do Mark and Move for longer during greetings. Here’s an example of Mark and Move.

I’m more likely to switch to working mode, meaning that I might use more of the other techniques that we already spoke of in this class: On/Off Switch, Premack principle, and straight clicker training for attention, heel, etc. But even with dogs who have frustration, I prefer working without all of that extra clutter, if possible, so the dog is clearly learning about the social situation at hand. He’s learning to pay attention to the signals of the other dog or person, for example, and navigating using social behavior.

I am likely to use Mark and Move for longer with frustration, because that last 10 feet or so is extra “magnetic,” by which I mean that the dog is really, really interested in getting in for a sniff or to play and has a hard time being casual unless there’s another obvious motivator for moving away or being relaxed.

With any BAT set-up, we want to work in an enriched environment to help keep arousal down. Even if the emotion is frustration and not fear or panic, I still want to avoid it, to help the dog make clear choices. Your best option is to find a natural environment that has plenty of interesting odors. Walk at the edges of the field instead of the center or find an area with trees and bushes in it. You can also do a more artificial “parallel play” type activity by have mellow activity stations in the area, like dog-friendly spices/odors on the grass, boxes with treats inside, or parmesan cheese Sprinkles. That way, the dog can choose to do that other activity instead of being solely 100% driven to get to the other dog.

Set your dog up for success by exercising your dog in advance and doing something calming before and during breaks like finding treats (hidden in advance) or doing a massage (good time to use your relaxation cue if you have one). When I filmed the new BAT 2.0 Set-Ups DVD, I worked with a dog that had a very hard time settling. We did a series of recalls up and down a hill and then walked him a bit before the BAT set-up to him relax. That worked wonders.

Move slowly. Set the tone by being relaxed.

If the slow pace frustrates your dog, make the local area more interesting for exploration and/or move the trigger farther away. If that still doesn’t work and the dog has already had exercise, You can switch to doing Mark and Move for a bit. When reinforcing, scatter the treats so that the dog investigates the area.

When you start to get up close with a live trigger, switch into following versus having a stationary trigger, at least at first. Use Mark and Move when they get to the point of sniffing the other dog or person. Gradually allow longer and longer greetings before you Mark, Move away, and reinforce, then allow the dog to return if she wants.

Even though a purely frustrated dog (if there is such a thing) does not always want to go forward. When you first start working, you can do really big zig zags with your dog toward the trigger until he notices it. But once your dog is aware of the trigger, be sure not to lead your dog toward the trigger, even doing Mark and Move. This is the same as with any other kind of BAT.

“Even with frustration? WHY?”

Well there are many reasons especially relevant to frustration, but here are 4:

  1. Dogs who only want to approach the trigger without reservation are few and far between. A lot of “frustration” cases I see are actually a mix of frustration and fear.
  2. If your dog is paying attention to the other dog, her timing of when to move forward may be better than yours. She’s a native speaker in that conversation.
  3. If your dog actually IS showing some self-control and is pausing instead of rushing at the trigger, you’ll probably just override that by moving forward. You’re a bad influence, so to speak.
  4. You’re getting her to move forward without really thinking, exactly when we are trying to teach a thoughtful approach.

[/s2If]

Lesson 14: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

HOMEWORK

  • Write out your dog’s top 3 “problem behaviors” – behaviors you want her/him to stop doing. What needs or wants do they satisfy for your dog? Is there another way your dog could get those needs met? Put this list on your refrigerator and make any changes that might be helpful.
  • Practice the On/Off Switch training using the Premack Principle.
  • Practice Speed Training on your walks.
  • The next lesson discusses BAT set-ups for frustration. You might want to schedule a set-up with a friend or trainer now so you can do it next week.

[/s2If]

Lesson 13: (Needs) Training with Premack

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

TRAINING: ON/OFF SWITCH WITH THE PREMACK PRINCIPLE

Your All Done cue is permission to go be a dog. Thinking in Premack terms, if there is something that your dog already wants to do in the environment, your All Done cue is permission to go do that. In other words, you can use All Done to reinforce behavior. Playing with a food puzzle or eating treats off the ground is a high probability behavior, so those of you who have carefully timed your All Done to when your dog is paying attention to you have been applying the Premack principle.

For your On/Off Switch training this week, work around a moderate distraction. It should be

  • Something your dog can go freely engage with (like another person, squirrel in a tree, etc.)
  • Distracting/valuable enough to your dog so that your dog will choose to do that instead of stick around with you once you’ve said All Done
  • Not so distracting that your dog won’t work with you for a bit

Go through this sequence:

Have 5 treats available. Value should be enough to keep the dog with you but not overpowering the activity so much that he won’t go to it when released. Have your dog work on something that involves focus with you. You can do the same attention activity that we’ve been doing or you can do something like a trick. For the last correct behavior, release him using All Done. If he just stares at you, help him understand that he can now go do the activity by walking in that direction.

Let him enjoy the distraction for several minutes. Repeat the above exercise with fewer treats each time: 4, 3, 2, 1, and then 0. A true use of Premack’s principle is to only have access to the activity as a reinforcer (so not the treats), but doing it this way allows you to get repetitions in more rapidly. If your dog is too excited to eat, work farther away from the distraction. If that’s not possible, keep him from getting to the distraction (fence, harness/leash, etc.) and then ask for a simple behavior and release/reinforce with All Done, granting access to the distraction.

TRAINING: SPEED TRAINING FOR LOOSE LEASH WALKING

One of the needs (or wants) that our four-legged friends have is to simply just walk faster. Humans are terribly slow. If you have walked off leash with your dog, then you know what her normal pattern of walking looks like. Dogs run, walk a bit, run, stop a bit, walk, and run more. If we recall Premack’s principle from above, being able to walk at the pace that your dog wants to walk is a big reinforcer.

So keeping in mind that your dog may also want to slow down or stop, let’s assume he wants to go more quickly than you on average.

This is meant for walking along a sidewalk or trail, not your meandering BAT walks in a field. The closer your dog gets to heel position, the faster you go. If you can run or jog with your dog when she is right beside you, so much the better. When she starts pulling ahead of you, slow down. If you’re close to losing your braking distance, use a Slide and Slow Stop so that she doesn’t suddenly come to a stop. If she just pulls on ahead, call her name or otherwise get her attention and then change direction. Let out some line as you go so that you don’t pull her.

So if your max speed is 100%, then when she’s in heel, you are at 100%. If she’s half of the leash length ahead of you, you are at 50%. If she stops, you are at 0% and if she starts pulling, you switch to -10% or so (going away from her), then when she comes along, that’s your new “forward” and you do the same as above.

If she stops to sniff or appears to want to walk more slowly, then by all means, let that happen.

Warning: I lost a good amount of weight doing this with Peanut, since it turned out that he was really great at heeling on hills when he was a teenager. You may also accidentally get into shape using this technique.

[/s2If]

Lesson 12: (Needs) What Are Your Dogs Unmet Needs?

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

I’d like you to think about your dog’s unmet needs and also think about what needs ARE being met, but by behavior you don’t especially like.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/121209646″]

As you read through the following information from the Empowered Puppy Raising course, think about the times when your dog would be nodding along. Make two lists:

  1. Needs that are not met at all
  2. Needs that my dog meets in a way I don’t like

Put those up on your refrigerator and ponder ways to help meet your dog’s needs while still meeting your own.

When we bring a dog into our home, we become his caretaker. Simply by having the dog in human society, in our homes or on our property, we have taken away many of the ways that dogs are able to meet their own needs. Just like caretakers at a modern zoo, our roles as canine caretakers is to provide ways for dogs meet their needs. In this lesson, I have split dogs’ needs into the following categories.

  • Safety and comfort
  • Survival of the species/social group (reproduction)
  • Food/Water Intake
  • Food/Water Outlet
  • Family / Social Interaction
  • Other Environmental Enrichment

I’ll comment a bit on each category above.

Safety means both physical and emotional safety. With our puppies, that means only having them in situations that they can handle, and working as quickly as possible to help them feel comfortable in a variety of situations. It’s our responsibility to provide and prepare our dogs for grooming required for health and comfort (like tooth brushing and nail trimming for all breeds and fur brushing or even trimming for some breeds) and veterinary care, including vaccinations to prevent disease. Vaccines save lives, but they are not entirely benign. Don’t skip necessary vaccines, but also look into whether a particular vaccine is really needed for your dog’s lifestyle and location.

Physical exercise is primarily in the safety category, because insufficient exercise is a health risk. We must do so in a safe way, however, like training a solid recall and using a leash and harness near traffic. It also means not letting them run off leash toward on-leash dogs, and also removing the leash (if it’s safe) or leaving the area if a loose dog comes to them. I cringe whenever I see a poor puppy on a leash surrounded by dogs. No matter how friendly the dogs are, it’s quite scary for the puppy, who has nowhere to go. He’s like bait on a rope. If the area is enclosed and the dogs are friendly and well socialized, you might choose to let your puppy off-leash. Otherwise, it’s probably best to move on and avoid the stress.

Part of physical safety is protection from the elements, with my preference being that the dog lives indoors, with the family, because it helps meet their social needs. Puppies need more sleep than adult dogs. Adults may sleep 12 to 16 hours each day, so a 3-month old puppy would need more like 15 or 20 hours per day. Puppies need a chance to consolidate memories made, so please set up your puppy’s world so that he gets plenty of rest. That means paying attention to where his sleeping areas are, keeping children out of there, etc. After exciting play times, don’t just leave the puppy all revved up. Do something to help him relax afterwards.

The individual dog needs to be safe, but the species and the family also need to survive. Humans know that dogs are doing pretty well as a species, and in fact we have more dogs than we can care for. Not every dog needs to breed. But it is our responsibility to encourage breeders to select mentally and physically sound dogs that thrive in human care. I’m on my soapbox here, but we owe our dogs a good future as a species and that means we need to stop breeding for looks at the expense of sanity and health.

Food and water need to go in and out of your dog’s system on a regular basis. Nutrition is beyond the scope of this course, but do pay attention to the food that goes into your puppy’s body. A dog’s diet has an effect on energy levels, overall health, lifespan, receptivity to training, and even can contribute to anxiety and other behavioral issues. Water should be available to your puppy and never withdrawn as punishment. Make sure you have water available when the puppy is alone, rather than taking it up to avoid the need to urinate.

For food and water to get out of your dog’s body in a way that you don’t mind, your dog needs regular walks or access to the outdoors. Leaving your puppy outside all day, however, may introduce him to certain things he’s not able to handle, like teasing children. He may learn to bark at passersby because he is afraid of them or is trying to get their attention. The same applies to a dog door. It’s better than an accident on your floor, but it’s less risky to take the puppy out regularly, have someone stop by to give potty walks, or have pads or papers near your door for times when the puppy can’t hold it.

According to the Association of Zoos and Aquariums article on enrichment, environmental enrichment is “the dynamic process for enhancing animal environments within the context of the animals’ behavioral biology and natural history.” Environmental enrichment is basically about giving the animals a chance to make choices that matter.

AZA writes, “Environmental changes are made with the goal of increasing the animals’ behavioral choices and drawing out their species-appropriate behaviors, thus enhancing animal welfare.” Enrichment includes natural social groupings to promote social interaction, as well as sensory enrichment, food enrichment, and training. We can do a lot of this with our dogs. For example:

  • Having more than one dog in your home (not always possible or advisable)
  • Play dates or walks with other dogs
  • Learning to understand our dogs’ behavior
  • Early socialization with many dogs outside of the family, so that your dog understands how to communicate with his own species (and wants to)
  • Not continuously training (allow natural behaviors and choices whenever possible)
  • Going for walks in places with interesting smells, surfaces, etc.
  • Food puzzles of various complexity (more on that later in this lecture)
  • More odors, puzzles, sounds, etc. if dog is housebound
  • Training that serves a purpose for the dog (focus on behaviors that help the dog)

Those are all common needs that dogs have. In the moment, your dog may have a particular need or even a want. We already spoke about 2-way communication in the first lesson. Have these needs in mind when you observe your dog’s behavior or ask him a question. Teach specific behavior that helps him communicate his wants and needs.

How Needs Lead to Problems

My laptop is stubborn. It insists on shutting down, even though it knows how much I appreciate it working and that I need it to stay on while I type this lesson for you. I can plead, shout, and buy some time by turning down the brightness, but in the end, only plugging my computer into power will stop this unwanted behavior. Fortunately, I have alternatives. If I leave it plugged in before I use it, I can work for hours without this problem behavior. By meeting the computer’s needs in a way that works with my schedule, we’re both happy.

We can do this with our dogs, too. I believe that most of the problems people have with their dogs is due to unmet needs.

I created the need categories by listing all of the problems that people have brought me over the years as a dog trainer. Let’s take a look at each of the categories and what kinds of “problem behaviors” are really just attempts to meet that need. These are not the ONLY ways these behaviors arise, and some problems are neurological, but you can pretty much always track a behavior back to some need not being met.

Safety

  • Pulling away or toward something
  • Lagging behind on walks (toward home)
  • Barking, growling, biting, etc. (dog feels unsafe, in pain, or just hasn’t had enough sleep)
  • Overexcitement, trouble concentrating (not enough exercise, not enough sleep)

Survival of the species/social group

  • Pulling / running away
  • Mounting
  • Aggression
  • Barking at the door

Food / Water Intake

  • Chewing
  • Resource guarding toys or food
  • Stealing human items
  • Chasing cats, squirrels, etc.
  • Barking at owner

Food / Water Outlet

  • Eliminating inside
  • Pulling on leash

Social Interaction

  • Jumping / Licking
  • Other attention-seeking behavior
  • Pulling toward other dogs or people
  • Boredom barking (repetitive woof, woof, woof…, woof, woof, woof,…)
  • Howling, lack of appetite, and/or exit destruction when alone

Other Environmental Enrichment

  • Puppy biting
  • Chewing / “Stealing”
  • Pulling toward smells or other interesting things
  • Running away
  • Stereotypic (repetitive) behavior
  • Shut down (non-behavior)

The behavior we consider to be a problem is just the dog’s attempt to get what he wants or needs. If he knew another reasonable way to get it that would also make us happy, he would likely do it. We might also be able to get rid of the need instead of meeting it, as with neutering males who wander to find females in season. There’s a section in the Ahimsa Dog Training manual on Functional Rewards. I’ll summarize it here:

Teach appropriate behavior by blocking the reinforcement for behavior you don’t want and reinforce behavior you do want with the consequences the dog is looking for, not just random reinforcers.

By directing our training and care toward helping dogs meet their needs, we can avoid a whole giant list of problems. A lot of what we teach them meets OUR need to feel that we are communicating with or controlling our dogs. Historically, people have come up with harsher and harsher punishments when the dog is “stubborn” or (better) come up with higher and higher valued reinforcers to motivate change. But dogs already want things; that’s where most of the problems come from in the first place. If we teach dogs good ways to control their environment (including us, some of the time), we actually end up having more control than if we constantly have to work against the flow.

[/s2If]

Lesson 11: (Needs) Premack Principle

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

Week 4: Meeting Needs

  • Using the Premack Principle Wisely
  • What are YOUR Dog’s Unmet Needs?
  • Training: On/Off Switch with the Premack Principle
  • Training: Speed Training for Loose Leash Walking

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/126983905″]

USING THE PREMACK PRINCIPLE WISELY

Even though access to any high probably activity will reinforce any low probability behavior, we should be careful when we are trying to teach the dog a new behavior to replace one we don’t like. I think it’s easier to avoid frustration and craziness by choosing consequences that serve the dog’s original purpose. Use the reinforcer for the behavior that you’re trying to get rid of to reinforce the new behavior.

So yes, we can use toys to reinforce a dog for standing when you walk in instead of jumping up. Playing with the toy is a high probability activity and it will reinforce the lower probability behavior of standing. But if your dog was jumping up to get information about your day by sniffing your face, then the toy doesn’t meet his needs, it just redirects him to do something else. Permission to sniff and gather information is the main reinforcer to use here. I talk about this as a “functional reward” in the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual.

If you can find a high probability activity that is also a functional reward for the behavior that you want to change, use permission to do that activity as the reinforcer.

To recap: Look under the behavior to find the basic need or want that it satisfies. Use that to help you decide how and whether to use the Premack principle in a given situation. For example, with a dog who runs up to another dog to play, the need is to approach the other dog. Running directly at the other dog is not usually something we can allow, because it’s rude in dog language and the arousal level is too high, so the most obvious use of Premack’s principle doesn’t work.

But running is just one way to get closer. So while running there would probably be even more reinforcing, you can teach your dog that when he is on leash, approaching other dogs only happens in a polite arc at a slow pace that keeps the leash loose. Approaching the other dogs is the functional reward. Permission to do so can be granted if and only if your dog shows relaxed body language.

[/s2If]

Lesson 10: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

HOMEWORK

  • Touch/Find It as described in the lecture.
  • SEC On Switch. Practice as described below.
  • Begin to teach a More Please Signal for some grooming or vet care behavior (or something else you just want to do to your dog that dogs don’t usually like, like kissing her on the forehead).
  • Use Mark and Move on your walks this week. If you are already using a 15-foot leash, a clicker is too much to hold, so use a verbal marker, like Yes or a cue (Touch works well if it’s already trained up).

SEC On-Switch: I recommend that you combine Mark and Move with the SEC On Switch work that you did in the last Pause to Practice. Here’s what that looks like:

Casually hang out near your dog, like sitting on a bench reading a book. Occasionally have something visually change about the environment (person, other dog, etc. – see previous homework for a big list). This is the “trigger.”

Choose one of the following to mark (picking the most that your dog is capable of in that moment):

  • Engagement with the trigger (ear flick, eye turn, head turn, etc.)
  • Disengagement from the trigger (head turn away, movement away, etc.)
  • Attention to you (working mode)

You can mark with a verbal marker or clicker, but you can also mark with a cue, like the attention cue that you trained in the first On/Off Switch lesson. If you do that, use the cue to mark when your dog first looks at the trigger, then mark again with a verbal marker or clicker when your dog does that behavior. Move away and reinforce with something like a game of Find It. Go back to being casually near your dog.

If/when your dog looks at you after the treats, release with All Done (assuming it’s safe to do so). Wait at least a few minutes before repeating so that the trigger is at least something of a surprise.

[/s2If]

Lesson 9: (Control) Premack Principle Overview and Training Ideas

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

PREMACK PRINCIPLE OVERVIEW

premackDavid Premack was a psychologist and primate researcher who discovered a new kind of reinforcement in, shared in 1959. This principle is called Premack’s principle but is usually referred to as “the Premack Principle” in dog training. It’s also called the “relativity theory of reinforcement,” which I actually really like as a name. Everything is relative.

Here’s a small version of David Premack’s principle (“behavior” can replace “activity”).

High probability activities reinforce low probability activities

Or as I like to just say: “permission is a reinforcer.”

It turns out that having to do an actiivity that’s lower probability will punish the first behavior as well (make it less likely in the future). Like if every time you were on Facebook, you had to do your taxes, you’d probably be on Facebook a lot less.

There are other pieces to the principle but the bit about reinforcement is the part that we use the most in training. Premack’s theory is simple and yet very powerful, when put to use. Left to his own devices, what would be your dog’s most likely activities? Those are the high probability activities.

Access to those activities reinforces any behavior that’s not so likely in an untrained dog: waiting at the door, walking on a loose leash, sitting on cue, etc.

So any time you want to reinforce without food, think about Premack’s principle. If you can let your dog do an activity that they already do with greater frequency than the one you are trying to train, you’re in business. Grandma was using Premack’s principle when she said, “eat your peas and I’ll let you have dessert.”

We’ll talk more about this principle in the next lesson, but I want you thinking about the possibilities this week.

TRAINING: HAND TARGETING

Touch: With the Touch cue, your dog touches her nose to your hand. Touch is useful for getting your dog’s focus, for moving her from one place to another, for getting past distractions, and even getting your dog to come to you. Think about it. In order for your dog to touch her nose to your hand, she has to turn away from what she is doing and bring her nose to your hand. This automatically brings the rest of her body with her. It’s possibly THE most useful skill for a dog to have.

To teach Touch, start out with a treat and the clicker in one hand. You can have your target hand a flat hand or whatever you want, but I like to use two fingers as a target. Make a fist with your other hand, except put your pointer finger and middle finger out. That will be your visual cue for Touch. Present that hand to your dog. Your dog will then probably go toward your hand, expecting a treat. Ignore any pawing.

When she touches the hand with her nose, click and treat. While she’s eating, put your hand behind your back and then present it again when you’re ready to click and treat again. For some reason, it makes your hand brand-new and interesting again.

Do this several times before saying a cue. Once she’s got the hang of it, and you’re relatively sure she will touch your hand, start saying Touch right before you put your hand out. Continue to click and treat for touches.

If your dog stares at you and doesn’t touch the hand, then either wait her out or put your hand behind your back and bring it back out again. Don’t lean into her or stare (that’s a bit scary). Your hand may also look like a hand signal you’ve already been giving her. If that’s the case, change this to a new signal—hand flat, only one finger, etc. If she is biting your hand rather than gently touching with her nose, make sure you aren’t clicking for the bite. Click sooner to reward her before her mouth opens, or click later, waiting for her mouth to close before clicking.

Begin to move the target a bit, so your dog has to walk a step or two to touch your hand.

Your exercise this week is to alternate between Touch and Find It. So when you click for your dog touching your hand, say Find It and toss a treat on the floor for your dog to find. Start with an easy location and build up to tossing it several dog-lengths away. I do this for two reasons:

  1. It moves the dog away and sets you up for another Touch, automatically building distance into the Touch cue.
  2. Find It is probably my second favorite cue for dogs to know. You can use it as a distraction, to reduce stress, and for physical and mental exercise.

Note: if your dog is not familiar with Touch, keep quiet and don’t say the Touch cue until the behavior is reliable. You can, however, immediately use the word Find It, because that is already a highly likely behavior and you can make it happen by walking near the treat or tapping it with your foot if your dog really isn’t getting it. Try not to do the dog’s work for her…let her find it!

If your dog already is great at the Touch cue, increase the difficulty level by practicing around a bigger distraction. After 5 marked/treated Touches, mark the last one and release your dog go check out the distraction, using your All Done cue (and then maybe walking or pointing toward the distraction, if needed). Pop Quiz: what principle are we using here?

TRAINING: MARK AND MOVE AND OTHER SURVIVAL SKILLS

Mark and Move is covered in detail in BAT 101, the prerequisite for this class. It is also discussed in the free Survival Skills handout on public handouts page and my Ahimsa Dog Training Manual.

In short, you basically mark some behavior (click, yes, done?, etc.), move away, and give a reinforcer.

Mark and Move has an added benefit for dogs with frustration issues who want to run over to other dogs, for example. It reinforces the behavior that was marked, but also reinforces moving away from the other dogs, because the reinforcer comes AFTER the movement away.

[/s2If]

Lesson 8: (Control) Science & More Please Signal

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

Week 3: Control is a Basic Need

  • Science on Control
  • More Please Signal
  • Premack Principle Overview
  • Training: Hand Targeting
  • Training: Mark and Move and other Survival Skills (brief review)

SCIENCE ON CONTROL

What is control? An event is said to be controllable if “there is a difference in the likelihood of it occurring depending on an animal’s behavior” (Bassett & Buchanan-Smith, 2007). The whole point of behavior is for it to have an effect. When behavior does something that produces an effect that we like, we do more of it. But even just having your behavior do SOMETHING is important. Control is a primary reinforcer. Take, for example, the studies of infants and mobiles.

The concept of a “natural deprivation” of contingent reinforcement during human infancy was first proposed by Watson (1966). His hypothesis was that eliminating this deprivation would lead to intellectual gains. This would be done by making infants functionally aware of contingencies by setting up situations in which infants’ behavior could be reinforced. In other words, by creating scenarios in which the infants had some control over their environment, they would be “smarter” in some way. It’s learned industriousness, the exact opposite of learned helplessness, and it can have a powerful emotional effect.

In 1972, Watson and Ramey did a study with 10-week old infants. For simplicity, When a baby in the experimental group moved his or her head on the pillow, a mobile above the crib would turn. The babies in the first control group had the same amount of movement in their mobiles, but their behavior had no effect on whether it would move or not. A second control group had stationary mobiles. The experimental group should significantly more head movements by the end of the experiment than either of the control groups. In other words, the movement of the mobile was a reinforcer. More broadly, even 10-week-old babies will work to have some control over their environment, given the opportunity.

Even more interesting is that a similar result holds for premature infants, as well. Sokoff and Cotton (1975 – click for full text) did a similar experiment to the one described above, except that a string was tied to the baby’s feet to produce contingent movement of the mobile. They found that all of the babies, including their experimental group, demonstrated less foot movement over time, but that the control group lost that movement more slowly. That is, because their foot movements had an effect on their environment, they were slower to give it up than the other groups. So while it didn’t fully maintain the behavior as the babies aged, it was probably still a reinforcer.

Here’s an excerpt from the conclusion:

These findings…suggest the importance of artificially creating contingency environments, especially for prematures, whose “natural deprivation period” is much longer than that for term infants. In this way, a group of infants most vulnerable to early stimulus deprivation will be provided with an opportunity to learn that their behaviors can produce immediate environmental feedback thereby creating a more varied and “interesting” stimulus world for them.

Here’s a more recent study by Hains and Muir (1996 – click for full text) on contingency, pointing out that infants pay attention to whether their behavior has an effect. That’s the whole point of behavior, after all, to do something, to make something change.

Infants gazed less at TV-noncontingent than either live- or TV-contingent displays, and there was evidence that noncontingency had a long-lasting effect on gaze. They were equally attentive to both contingent displays, but smiled more to live than to televised displays. An order effect revealed that smiling depended on the nature of both the current and prior interaction.

Deer mice, which tend to avoid bright lighting, will turn off a light if it turns on at regular intervals. But it gets more interesting, as summarized by Bassett & Buchanan-Smith (2007):

Their preference for control appears to override their aversion to bright light, as they will also turn it back on if it is automatically turned off. Kavanau concludes that the animals find it rewarding to exercise a degree of control over their environment. The degree of behavioural control that an animal has over a stressor is also thought to regulate the behavioural and physiological impact of that stressor.

So let’s bring this around to dogs. Dogs aren’t human babies, but if even tiny human babies and deer mice do something, it’s likely that dogs do, too, because we all share the mammalian brain structure. Interpreting the results above for dogs (and, say, looking at all of the research on animals), what it means is that control is a basic need. Not the “taking over the world” kind of control, but the “what I does changes something about the environment” sort of control. By looking at our dogs’ other needs and helping them learn to use their behavior to get those needs met, we are also meeting that other basic need: control.

Want to geek out a bit more? I have some more information about controllability and fear in the “Technical Aspects of BAT” article in the 2014 APDT Chronicle of the Dog. Click to read.

MORE PLEASE SIGNAL

The More Please Signal is a great way to add controllability to your dog’s life. I highly recommend it for anything where you need or want to do something to your dog that is not consistently reinforcing.

Below, I describe the More Please Signal in general and give some specific examples. This part of the lesson is from the Empowered Puppy Raising course. Note: I’d highly recommend using More Please Signals for any husbandry or vet procedures that your dog has trouble with, as a way to reduce his overall level of frustration or anxiety. There are videos on the More Please Signal in the Member Video Library.

**********

Humans can get an impressive amount of control over dogs by using the various training techniques. Force free training can be applied to all sorts of problems, but it really excels when it comes to teaching the dog to DO something. We can teach them to do showy behaviors that impress our friends. These tricks give the dogs some mental stimulation. They also help us communicate to our dogs, at least in the sense that we can say a cue and they’ll do a behavior. We feel listened to. That’s fine if there is a lot of time in the day for all that training and the rest puppies need, but I’d say a better use of our time during puppyhood is to teach our dogs to cooperate in their own care.

Here’s a video by UK trainer Chirag Patel. He trained his dog, Cody, help make the vet visits go smoothly, from blood draws to checking on his teeth. Notice that Chirag does not open Cody’s mouth using pressure. This is a targeting exercise, where Cody is actually targeting the fingers with the inside of his mouth.

Teaching a dog to actively participate in exercises that help him get used to grooming, vet care, and other daily activities creates a chance for satisfying and useful 2-way conversations. It’s what the best zoos do. My favorite trainers, including Ken Ramirez and Chirag, have been getting the word out to pet owners about how to bring this training into our homes. It fits in well with the empowered puppy raising philosophy and of course I always like to give things my own spin, too.

Let’s say you want to get a dog used to a sound, like a shotgun. It’s helpful to just associate the sound with food by playing the sound and feeding. That’s a popular technique for “classical counterconditioning.” But it’s even more powerful to teach the dog to control the sound, because it gives you more specific information on how you are doing with keeping the dog relaxed during this process (for the trainers: I mean “below threshold”). And control itself is reinforcing, so that’s another positive thing to associate with the sound. This way is a more empowered version of counterconditioning.

We basically teach the dog a way to say “play that sound again.” Let’s call that a More Please Signal (MPS), the canine version of a keep going signal. Pick a behavior that will be your dog’s way to communicate with you, something you don’t mind them doing a lot. Next, get a recording of the sound. You will play it back at a low volume so that it does not scare your dog.

  1. Play the sound and then feed a treat (just a quick check that we are at a good volume, where the dog can hear it, but is not scared). Pause and just be boring for about 15 seconds in between. Repeat three times and observe body language. If the dog is scared at any point, reduce the volume by at least half.
  2. Use the sound as a marker for the behavior you picked as your MPS. Let’s say that behavior is Sit. Just wait with your treats in your hands and soon your puppy will sit. Play the sound as the marker, then praise and treat. If you do use sit, toss the treat so the puppy is up and ready for the next repetition. Repeat until the puppy is clearly asking for you to play the sound. If your puppy is already very clicker savvy, continue past that to at least about 10 times. Then move to a new place and repeat the activity with a slightly higher volume.

If at any point, the puppy wanders away or does not sit, then you may need to reassess. Possible causes:

  • The sound was too loud
  • Your puppy just isn’t familiar with Sit being a magical way to get humans to feed her (so be patient)
  • Your timing is too slow (she is not hearing the sound right when she sits or chooses to sit)
  • She doesn’t like your treats
  • You are scaring her with your body language or maybe are praising too loud
  • The sound is too quiet, so it’s not marking the behavior
  • Your body language is confusing (too active, making her think she is getting treats randomly)

With this way of doing things, versus simply playing the sound and giving her a treat, you get more information and I usually see puppies learn more quickly. I also see people paying more attention to whether they are desensitizing at the right level of exposure. People tend to try to rush things and end up playing the sound too loudly when the puppy doesn’t have a say in the process.

This way also teaches your puppy how to learn from you via marker training. If you are experienced with shaping, you can even double up by shaping a trick using this new marker signal.

Basically anything that we want to do to our dogs can be used as a marker if we think creatively. And while any behavior will do as a More Please Signal, it helps to pick an MPS that is also not obnoxious and is incompatible with behavior dogs normally use to get us to stop. So barking, biting, and avoiding are probably not good choices for More Please Signals.

Examples

Brushing.

Many puppies chew at the brush or bite the human. Targeting a yoghurt lid or a Post-It note is incompatible with that. Targeting the inside of a muzzle is another good More Please Signal for grooming and vet care. But unless you are really, really good at not messing up and pushing too hard, I recommend training the muzzle separately at first. I wouldn’t want to risk doing this wrong and having the muzzle associated with stress. I think all dogs should be taught to love a muzzle, so that if a muzzle is ever needed in an emergency, it doesn’t add extra stress to the situation.

But back to grooming

Let’s say you have Target as your More Please Signal. Train your puppy to target up to the point of being able to hold her chin or nose to the target for several seconds.

The brushing is the marker, and just like the sound was above. Gradually turn up the intensity of on the brushing as your dog is successful at each step, just like we did with the volume of the sound.

Keep a relaxed and happy attitude throughout. Don’t be super excited or you may cause your puppy to want to bounce around.

I’ll break it into some steps below, but you may need to split things up even more. Your dog may be sensitive to the changes between the steps I’ve written or need more before to get set up. Work at each step 10 times and then pause to prepare yourself with what you will do at the next step. The only thing you will change is the intensity of the brushing during each session. I recommend being in a sort of grooming position before you get started, so you are sitting down at your dog’s level or you have trained him to be comfortable on a grooming table.

Note: If you are an advanced trainer and want to use this to shape a behavior at the same time, you could also for the dog to hold her nose to the target for longer and longer, for example. But then you have a little bit of confusion as to whether the dog doesn’t like the brushing or doesn’t understand the behavior. So I’d recommend sticking with just one set behavior unless you are very sure the dog is comfortable with each step.

  • Touch puppy with your hand (hold brush in the other hand behind your back – the touching hand is also your feeding hand, if you are alone, so you may need to let the puppy sniff your hand each time before touching)
  • Brush comes out from behind your back, not approaching the dog (allow dog to sniff the brush at any point that she wants)
  • Brush moves slightly closer to the dog (however many steps you need to get to the next step smoothly)
  • Brush touches the dog (different location each time) – bristles up
  • Brush touches the dog (different location each time) – bristles down
  • Brush slides along for 1 second (different location each time) – bristles up
  • Brush the dog for 1 second (different location each time) – bristles down
  • Brush the dog for 2 seconds (different location each time)
  • Brush the dog for 3 seconds (different location each time)
  • Brush the dog for 4 seconds (different location each time)
  • Brush the dog for 5 seconds (different location each time)

5 seconds is a long time for a puppy, so you may want to stick with 5 seconds as your upper limit for a while before you have to ‘feed the meter’ again. Your treats don’t have to just be food. If your puppy enjoys massage, that can also be the treat a good deal of the time.

Try to use calm reinforcers so that you get calm behavior during grooming and vet care. That said, with a dog who truly cannot stand what you need to do, then any reinforcer that she’ll work for is fine. For example, I have messed up nail trimming enough times that Peanut really doesn’t like it. He knows it’s a risky business. But he still happily cooperates with me, putting his paw out for filing, because I toss his toy to him when I have done each nail. We use the same for blood draws.

Do not try to do this all at once! Do about 5 minutes per session. In each session, you can work your way more quickly to the bottom of the list.

Standing on a rug or other object (this is a type of paw targeting) is another good More Please Signal for brushing. As long as your puppy is on the rug, she is willing to trade brushing for treats. If she leaves, pause the brushing. Use the same gradual approach as above.

This is a nice use of the More Please Signal! Nella was one of our Empowered Puppy Raising students. Her mum Katey Aldred made this little video to show Nella’s continued progress.

Video is great for showing us how we can improve even more. After seeing the bit of jumping at the click and the slightly tucked tail, Katey will begin using a release cue as the marker and also work on making it even more “worth it” to Nella.

Nail Filing.

I prefer filing to clipping because I’m less likely to get it wrong. I also think that clipping is sudden and probably feels like being bitten, whereas nail filing is more gradual.

Use nail files meant for artificial nails, as they have the best filing surface. I also use a Dremel tool, because it is a lot faster, but it is also easy to mess up and injure the dog or yourself.

The paw shake is a perfect More Please Signal for nail filing or clipping. You’ll need to get a paw shake with all four paws. Work up to being able to hold your dog’s paw with a grip on the toenail. Grip it tightly but keep it in the natural shape of the paw, rather than pulling the toe back. Holding the toenail firmly will dampen the vibration when you file or clip it.

The process for nail filing is essentially the same as for brushing, but most dogs dislike having their nails done, so be ready to need more steps here. Your MPS can be something like paw-to-hand targeting (front paw) or paw lift (back paw), which you first train with the clicker or marker word, using the steps in the training section below. During clipper training, when your puppy does the MPS, you’ll use the nail file as the marker. Gradually turn up the intensity of the filing using something like the list below. Always watch for signs of stress or hesitation, and make things easier if need be.

Reminder: Do not try to do this all at once! Do about 5 minutes per session. In each session, you can work your way more quickly to the bottom of the list.

  • File comes out from behind your back, not approaching the dog (allow dog to sniff the nail file at any point that she wants)
  • File moves slightly closer to the dog (however many steps you need)
  • File touches the toenail
  • File for ½ second (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 1 second (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 2 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 3 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 4 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 5 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)

As with brushing, 5 seconds at a time may be the maximum for your puppy. If you choose to clip instead, then work your way up to the clipping in a gradual way as well. For example, you can trim a toothpick near the paw in order to copy the sound of the clippers.

As you can see, this concept can be extended to many things that we need to do to our dogs. For example, we can do the same with cleaning the ears. Targeting a Post-It could be the MPS for that as well, or targeting the cotton ball with the nose. If you have other kinds of grooming or things that must be done to your dog, use the More Please Signal to get cooperation there, too.

Food for thought: What could you use as a More Please Signal for the examination of a conformation (show) dog?

Resources for this section:

Bassett, L., & Buchanan-Smith, H. M. (2007). Effects of predictability on the welfare of captive animals. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 102(3), 223-245.

Hains, S. M., & Muir, D. W. (1996). Effects of stimulus contingency in infant-adult interactions. Infant Behavior and Development, 19(1), 49-61.

Solkoff, Norman, and Candice Cotton. “Contingency awareness in premature infants.” Perceptual and motor skills 41.3 (1975): 709-710.

Watson, J. S. (1966). The development and generalization of” contingency awareness” in early infancy: Some hypotheses. Merrill-Palmer Quarterly of Behavior and Development, 123-135.

Watson, J. S., & Ramey, C. T. (1972). Reactions to response-contingent stimulation in early infancy. Merrill-Palmer Quarterly of Behavior and Development, 219-227.

[/s2If]

(Video 10) Do I Need a Professional Dog Trainer?

In this video, Grisha goes over the pros and cons of hiring a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.

Hint: in most cases, the answer is yes, even with the excellent support provided on this site. A professional trainer helps with socialization opportunities and hands-on skills, and may notice things that you might otherwise miss — even if you’ve had many dogs before. This video also gives you tips for how to choose a dog trainer.

Continue reading (Video 10) Do I Need a Professional Dog Trainer?

(Video 01) What is Modern Dog Training?

Modern animal training techniques focus on helping animals WANT to work with us. This type of training can efficiently teach “dog obedience” type behaviors, set boundaries, and change problem behavior. But it also helps create two-way communication and meet the animal’s needs. This video shows the power of the modern training techniques used in the Building Blocks Academy.

Continue reading (Video 01) What is Modern Dog Training?

(Video 02) Empowerment: How to Build Cooperation and Trust

In old-fashioned training, problems are blamed on the animal being too dominant. Ironically, the problem is not that they have too much control over us, but rather, they do not have enough control over their own safety and wellbeing. In this video, Grisha explains what empowerment means, and why empowered animal training is so helpful for problem solving.
Continue reading (Video 02) Empowerment: How to Build Cooperation and Trust

(Video 09) How to Puppy-Proof Your Home

Puppies are little chewing machines. We recommend puppy-proofing for any dog under 1 year old or dogs who have not yet lived indoors. In this video, Grisha gives tips on what to do to keep your puppy and your house safe. This advice also applies to kitten-proofing and preparing your home for any new pet that will able to move around your home.
Continue reading (Video 09) How to Puppy-Proof Your Home

(Video 08) Stop It Now! Quick Fixes for Pet Behavior Problems

Sometimes you need your dog to just stop jumping up, stealing the trash, or running out the door. If your first instinct when there’s a problem is to yell at your bird or or punish the cat, definitely watch this video! These quick fixes (environmental ‘management’) give you time change pet’s behavior long term using force-free training.
Continue reading (Video 08) Stop It Now! Quick Fixes for Pet Behavior Problems

(Video 24) 6 Cue Words that Every Pet Should Know

In this video, Grisha goes over the list of the most important training cues for every pet to know, plus a bonus for dogs. Focus on early socialization and these 6 cues to strengthen your relationship and prevent a lot of problems before they even start. (p.s. cues are sort of like “commands”)
Continue reading (Video 24) 6 Cue Words that Every Pet Should Know

(Video 23) How to Set Boundaries for Animal Care

Boundaries define personal dignity and integrity. They are rules about what we can and cannot accept. Boundaries define ways that we feel comfortable interacting, how we want to be spoken to or touched. This video explores ways to set boundaries with and for your pets.
Continue reading (Video 23) How to Set Boundaries for Animal Care

(Video 22) What’s Really True? How to Handle Conflicting Advice

With some notable exceptions, pet training is getting more and more humane over time. That’s why the more you learn about dog training, the more conflicting advice you seem to get! This video discusses the Humane Hierarchy and other useful ways to sort through fact and fiction.
Continue reading (Video 22) What’s Really True? How to Handle Conflicting Advice

(Video 16) Vet Visit Stress Tips for Dogs

Vet visits are the single most common terrifying experience for dogs and cats. This video gives several tips that you can use in your next visit and some that you’ll need to train and practice first. Definitely watch this right away if you have a puppy, kitten, or other young animal.
Continue reading (Video 16) Vet Visit Stress Tips for Dogs

(Video 13) Watch This Before Petting Another Animal!

Dogs and many other furred and feathered animals are fun to pet! That doesn’t mean they like us touching them the way we are doing it – if at all! In this video, Grisha goes through how to greet animals in a way that makes them feel more safe and happy.
Continue reading (Video 13) Watch This Before Petting Another Animal!

(Video 12) 10 Ways that Your Pet Says “I’m OK”

Learning when your pet is saying “I like that” or “more please” is really fun! Understanding happy communication gives you a better bond with your animals and also helps you meet their needs.
Continue reading (Video 12) 10 Ways that Your Pet Says “I’m OK”

(Video 11) 10 Ways that Your Pet Says “I need space”

Did you know that a wagging tail does not necessarily mean your dog is happy? Animals often ask us to back off because they are scared. Unfortunately, humans miss most of the signals and our pets have to bark, hiss, growl, or even bite to finally get the message across.
Continue reading (Video 11) 10 Ways that Your Pet Says “I need space”

(Video 17) What is Puppy Socialization and Why is it So Important?

Socialization is one of the key experiences that a young animal must have. Carefully get your new pet used to people, dogs, and other potentially scary things – early and often. Socialization is not just for puppies – this video is a must for every family with a young animal.
Continue reading (Video 17) What is Puppy Socialization and Why is it So Important?

(Video 04) Etiquette: What is Polite in a Dog Training Class?

Did you know you can keep other people’s dogs from barking in class by calling your own dog away from staring? Grisha’s etiquette tips will help you and your dog be good citizens in your training class.

You can apply most of these rules to any time you go to a coffee shop or other public place with your dog.
Continue reading (Video 04) Etiquette: What is Polite in a Dog Training Class?

(Video 05) Shhhh: 15 Ways to Keep Your Dog Quiet in Class

In this video, Grisha shares some useful tips to keep your dog quiet in class and other situations. These tips can be used for barking and whining in training classes but also at home or when you are having coffee with friends.
Continue reading (Video 05) Shhhh: 15 Ways to Keep Your Dog Quiet in Class

A Critical Look at 7 Different Methods for Fear-Based Aggression (52 minutes)

Online seminar recorded 2013 in UK – Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP . This talk compares 7 different common methods for rehabilitating fear-based aggression from a humane training perspective, including force-free techniques and punishment methods from popular books and videos.


Continue reading A Critical Look at 7 Different Methods for Fear-Based Aggression (52 minutes)

BAT for Geeks (1.5 hours)

Online seminar recorded June 27, 2014 – Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP with Carly Loyer, CBATI. If you are already familiar with BAT 2.0 and are looking to delve into it in a more technical way, this seminar is for you! This seminar also includes a discussion of ethics, the Humane Hierarchy, the Mere Exposure Effect, useful tips for classical counterconditioning and extinction, and even a bit of neurobiology.


Continue reading BAT for Geeks (1.5 hours)

BAT Leash Skills (1.25 hours)

Online seminar recorded June 10, 2014 – Presented by Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP. This introduction to BAT is meant for anyone who walks a dog, puppy, or even a potbellied pig. It may also be used by trainers or dog lovers who are using Behavior Adjustment Training to rehabilitate reactivity. Learn about various ways to help walk your dog in a way that helps both of you stay more physically and emotionally balanced.


Continue reading BAT Leash Skills (1.25 hours)

Intro to BAT 2.0 (2.25 hours) New!

On-demand webinar recorded February 29, 2020 – Presented by: Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA.  This introduction to Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 is meant for people who are having issues with their dogs. It may also be used by trainers who would like an introduction to BAT.

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“webinar_001_bat2”)[/PHP]Does your dog bark, growl, even bite dogs or other people? In this on-demand webinar, you will learn about BAT, a technique to teach your dog to be more comfortable. Depending on your experience with dogs and your dog’s level of aggression or fear, you might also want to hire a Certified BAT Instructor.

This video will give you practical tips to keep your family and your dog safe. It will teach you enough about BAT to know whether you want to give it a try with your dog. More resources are provided at the end of the video, in the store, and on the BAT info page.


Continue reading Intro to BAT 2.0 (2.25 hours) New!

BAT 1.0 Book (2010): Behavior Adjustment Training

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Put eBooks in folders designated here – folder name is related to the ccaps [/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“ebook_002_bat”);[/PHP][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the user info that you created.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_002_bat)]

Thank you for purchasing this eBook.
Please click the format for your book. On a mobile device, you may need download onto a computer and transfer over to get into a specific type of reader.


[/s2If]

Book Description
BAT-book-coverNote: This book is the first BAT book, which is about BAT 1.0. This purchase is only for the 1st edition, NOT the new BAT 2.0 book.

Get the new BAT 2.0 book:

The first BAT book is for dog trainers’ historical reference. The details of BAT are no longer current. I do not recommend getting this book before BAT 2.0. The content has been replaced.

To learn about BAT 2.0, please check out the BAT 2.0 BookFeature Films on BAT, online courses, or attend a seminar.

************

Get the 1st edition of the BAT book instantly as an eBook (choose the format of EPUB, MOBI, or PDF, whichever works with your reader program). Computers can read PDFs, MOBI works for Kindle. You can also download all three file formats in a ZIP file (significantly larger).

Behavior Adjustment Training is a low-stress way to help dogs gain confidence and social skills. The BAT book is written so that non-trainers with reactive dogs can easily read through it to help their dogs, but it also has a technical side, making it very useful for professionals. The book has “Notes for Pros” throughout and special technical chapters for trainers and behaviorists.

Chapters:

  • BAT Preview
  • BATboy: Peanut’s Story
  • Quick Fixes: Safety and Management Essentials
  • A Functional Approach: Functional Rewards and Replacement Behaviors
  • Functional Rewards and Replacement Behaviors for Reactive Dogs
  • BAT Set-Ups for Reactivity
  • BAT for Everyday Walks
  • BAT for Frustrated Greeters
  • Love Thy Neighbor: Fence Fighting
  • BAT for Puppy Socialization
  • For Professional Trainers and Behaviorists: Using BAT with Clients
  • Appendix 1: Clicker Training Foundations
  • Appendix 2: For Trainers and Behaviorists: Other Techniques That Use Functional Rewards
  • Appendix 3: For Trainers and Behaviorists: Geek Speak on Quadrants and Other Questions
  • Appendix 4: In Their Own Words: Trainers and Clients Experiences with BAT

Please note: eBooks are for use on your devices only. It is illegal (and just mean to authors and publishers) to share or sell the files with others.

[php]

$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “ebook_002_bat”;
$desc = “eBook: BAT 1.0”;
$price = “9.95”;
$productType = “ebooks”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]


Even if you have already seen the DVDs, you’ll find this book helpful. The BAT book is a thorough resource on dog reactivity for regular pet lovers as well as professional dog trainers and behaviorists. It makes a great resource for students in Growly Dog classes, too.


[PHP]buyNowButton($ebook_002_bat);[/PHP]

Feature Film 6:
“BAT for Geeks: A Technical Perspective on Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0”

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Add SLIDE NOTES to folder stated below – use ccap as folder name[/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“film_006_bfg”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_film_006_bfg)]

Thank you for purchasing this Feature Film
[php]
// $provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”113889191″;
QandAiFrame($provider, “”,$codeRecording)
[/php]

[/s2If]Why does BAT work? What’s the science behind it? What’s ‘under the hood?’ What about ethics and the quadrants? Grisha is fascinated by animal behavior and with the inquisitive mind of a mathematician, questions like these are often on Grisha’s mind.
[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this video, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

  • Video #6 in the BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series (Buy the set)
  • Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP
  • Instant streaming on your computer or mobile device (not a download – physical DVD sold separately)
  • Watch as many times as you want!
  • Run time: 1 hr 27 mins
  • Produced by TawzerDog in 2014 for home viewers (not just a filmed seminar)
  • Includes a PDF with slides to go along with the video

BAT for Geeks takes a technical look at BAT, mostly through the lens of applied behavior analysis. Join Grisha for whirlwind tour of various studies and their application to BAT. If you are ready to geek out about BAT, this video is for you.

[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “film_006_bfg”;
$desc = “Feature Film – BAT for Geeks”;
$price = “25”;
$productType = “featureFilms”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

Feature Film 5:
“BAT 2.0 Set-Ups: How to Orchestrate Basic Set-Ups and Variations with Dogs”

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Add SLIDE NOTES to folder stated below – use ccap as folder name[/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“film_005_b2su”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_film_005_b2su)]

Thank you for purchasing this Feature Film
[php]
// $provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”113866935″;
QandAiFrame($provider, “”,$codeRecording)
[/php]

  • Click for Notes
  • Leashes from this video are custom-made and available here through my site.
  • We also sell this as a physical DVD under the BAT 2.0 Set-Ups title or #5 of the full BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series.
  • Note: Near the end, there is a leftover slide that reads “Jackson video goes here.” Nothing is missing from your video, it just has this extra slide that should have been deleted. 🙂

[/s2If]Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) helps dogs gain confidence and social skills by arranging scenarios that allow a dog to explore and learn.
[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this video, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

  • Video #5 in the BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series (Buy the set)
  • Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP
  • Instant streaming on your computer or mobile device (not a download – physical DVDs sold separately)
  • Watch as many times as you want!
  • Run time: 1 hr 19 mins
  • Produced by TawzerDog in 2014 for home viewers (not just a filmed seminar)
  • Includes a PDF with slides to go along with the video

Originally developed in 2009, BAT 2.0 is the newly updated version that is simpler, faster, and easier for dogs and people to do. BAT is effective for many kinds of reactivity, from fear to frustration to full-on aggression.

This video has several live demonstrations and explanations of BAT 2.0. Whether you are familiar with BAT or not, this video will help you understand how to put this effective tool to work. This is a short introduction to the technique, with variations. It should be enough for professionals to start implementing BAT.

If you are not a dog trainer or behaviorist, you will still find this helpful, but Grisha recommends working with a Certified BAT Instructor (CBATI) or a trainer who is experienced with reactivity, and is familiar with this latest version of BAT.

[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “film_005_b2su”;
$desc = “Feature Film – BAT 2.0 Set Ups”;
$price = “25”;
$productType = “featureFilms”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

Feature Film 4:
“Survival Skills: Coping with Dog Reactivity in Real Life”

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Add SLIDE NOTES to folder stated below – use ccap as folder name[/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“film_004_ssdr”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_film_004_ssdr)]

Thank you for purchasing this Feature Film
[php]
// $provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”113866934″;
QandAiFrame($provider, “”,$codeRecording)
[/php]

[/s2If]Best known for the technique of Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT), Grisha also understands that it’s not always possible to train in the ideal way, with the dog learning at his own pace.
[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this video, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

  • Video #4 in the BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series (Buy the set)
  • Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP
  • Instant streaming on your computer or mobile device (not a download – physical DVDs sold separately)
  • Watch as many times as you want!
  • Run time: 1 hr 12 mins
  • Produced by TawzerDog in 2014 for home viewers (not just a filmed seminar)
  • Includes a PDF with slides to go along with the video

Sometimes we just don’t want to be the one holding the leash with the barking-lunging-freaking-out-dog at the other end.

This video has practical solutions to help dogs hold it together on everyday walks. The dog can’t do all of the work – sometimes that is your job, as the one with the larger brain and the thumbs.

One major difference between savvy dog trainers and regular pet lovers is that good professional trainers know how to take charge and set dogs up for success. But even pro trainers sometimes manage too much. It’s a fine line.

Grisha suggests a path between 1) reacting only when the dog is too excited to listen and 2) micromanaging to the point where the dog is not learning. She will teach you ways to prevent problems before they start, react when you have to, and set the dog up to learn as much as possible from each situation.

[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “film_004_ssdr”;
$desc = “Feature Film – Survival Skills: Dog Reactivity”;
$price = “25”;
$productType = “featureFilms”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

Feature Film 3:
“Problem Prevention in Puppies & Dogs: an Empowered Approach to Life with Dogs”

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Add SLIDE NOTES to folder stated below – use ccap as folder name[/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“film_003_ppp”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_film_003_ppp)]

Thank you for purchasing this Feature Film
[php]
// $provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”113866933″;
QandAiFrame($provider, “”,$codeRecording)
[/php]

[/s2If]Taking force-free training a step further – from reinforcement to empowerment – Grisha focuses on helping dogs meet their needs in appropriate ways. Doing so can prevent and eliminate many of the behaviors that humans don’t like.
[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this video, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

  • Video #3 in the BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series (Buy the set)
  • Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP
  • Instant streaming on your computer or mobile device (not a download – physical DVD sold separately)
  • Watch as many times as you want!
  • Run time: 2 hr 32 mins
  • Produced by TawzerDog in 2014 for home viewers (not just a filmed seminar)
  • Includes a PDF with slides to go along with the video

Empowerment is not only an efficient way to train our dogs, it is a big step in the direction of a high standard of humane care for the dogs who share our lives.

Grisha uses practical demonstrations to teach various skills, clarifies where problems come from, and explains how to mesh the needs of your dog with the needs of your family and the rest of human society.

This is a must-view video for breeders, puppy parents, dog owners, and professional dog trainers.

[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “film_003_ppp”;
$desc = “Feature Film – Problem Prevention in Puppies and Dogs”;
$price = “25”;
$productType = “featureFilms”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

Feature Film 2:
“Walk with Me! Safety, Fun, and Freedom with Leash Training for You and Your Dog”

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Add SLIDE NOTES to folder stated below – use ccap as folder name[/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“film_002_wwm”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_film_002_wwm)]

Thank you for purchasing this Feature Film
[php]
// $provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”113866932″;
QandAiFrame($provider, “”,$codeRecording)
[/php]

[/s2If]Before I was a professional dog trainer, walking my dog was a struggle. Over time, I developed a way for walks to be relaxing, enriching, and fun. This 1.5 hour video is part of my Empowered Animals series and it has my best walking tips to transform the relationship with your dog.

Two of the major problems people have with their dogs are 1) pulling on leash and 2) reactivity on leash. These two problems are related and can be helped with the techniques in this video. Both ends of the leash get training in this practical video for trainers and pet owners. It takes two to pull, so training people and dogs together makes for a very effective solution.

I just want to send you a HUGE THANKS!! I adopted a spirited little 2 yr old Brittany recently. She was never trained to walk on a leash and pulled like crazy. It was starting to take a toll on my body. Your Walk With Me video and Ahimsa training manual have been a huge help. She is very smart and very sensitive and your techniques help me connect with and harness her innate intelligence. I also appreciate the methodical step by step demonstrations and the BAT leash techniques in the Walk With Me video.  Just tonight, after only a couple days of leash training, she did not pull once. She gets it! –Catherine H.

[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this video, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

  • Video #2 in the BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series (Buy the set)
  • Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP
  • Instant streaming on your computer or mobile device (not a download – physical DVD sold separately)
  • Watch as many times as you want!
  • Run time: 1 hr 26 mins
  • Produced by TawzerDog in 2014 for home viewers (not just a filmed seminar)
  • Includes a PDF with slides to go along with the video

The three major topics covered are: BAT Leash Skills for People, Loose Leash Walking and Heel. Grisha does practical demonstrations of when to use each skill, breaking them down into easy-to-learn steps. She also explains several ways to teach heel and loose leash walking, since not every technique fits every dog.

[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “film_002_wwm”;
$desc = “Feature Film – Walk With Me!”;
$price = “25”;
$productType = “featureFilms”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

6-Film Set: Empowered Animals BAT 2.0 Series for All Dogs

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page. Add SLIDE NOTES to folder stated below – use ccap as folder name[/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“film_007_series”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_film_007_series)]

Thank you for purchasing these Feature Films!
Please click the link of each film below to view it.[catlist id=12 orderby=title order=asc]


[/s2If][s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this series, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

The bestseller at Tawzer’s annual sale! Get instant streaming access to this popular new video series for all dog lovers by Grisha Stewart. You’ll come away with a whole new perspective on life with dogs.

Videos 1-3 are especially helpful for all pet owners and 4 and 5 are great for preventing or rehabilitating aggression, frustration, or fear.

All six of these videos are useful for professional dog trainers.

  • All 6 Films in the BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series (Get one video free!)
  • Lifetime access, watch as many times as you want!
  • Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP
  • Instant streaming on your computer or mobile device (not a download – physical DVD box set sold separately)
  • Each video is about 1.5 hours
  • Produced by TawzerDog in 2014 for home viewers (not just a filmed seminar)
  • Each film includes a PDF with slides to go along with the video

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_film_007_series)]
Here’s a preview of “Talk With Me!” – the first film in this series:


Click each title below for a description or to purchase individually.
[catlist id=12 orderby=title order=asc]

[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “film_007_series,film_001_twm,film_002_wwm,film_003_ppp,film_004_ssdr,film_005_b2su,film_006_bfg”;
$desc = “Feature Films – BAT Series”;
$price = “125”;
$productType = “featureFilms”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

 

“Ahimsa Dog Training Manual: A Practical, Force-Free Guide to Problem Solving & Manners” eBook

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“ebook_001_ahimsa”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_001_ahimsa)]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the user info that you created.

Otherwise, please click here to purchase.

[/s2If][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_001_ahimsa)]

Thank you for purchasing this eBook.
Please click any of the formats below for your book. On a mobile device, you may need to download onto a computer and transfer over to get into a specific type of reader.


You can also purchase a paperback edition here.[/s2If]

Book Description

Grisha Stewart’s acclaimed book, “The Official Ahimsa Dog Training Manual: A Practical, Force-Free Guide to Problem Solving & Manners,” is available here on this page as an eBook and as a printed book through the sources below. This book is a general dog training manual for the most common problems and necessary training for dogs in our homes.

UPDATED! Now includes more illustrations, leash handling skills, and information about BAT 2.0 for reactivity.

Ahimsa-front-cover

SAMPLE: Click to read the first chapter.

This 160-page book is an introduction to dog training that started as the companion exercises for Ahimsa Dog Training classes in Seattle. It has practical exercises that start from a basic level and work up through advanced work on the most important behaviors for dogs to know. This quick manual is helpful for dog trainers to use with clients or new ideas for exercises and for breeders to share with new puppy parents.

The Ahimsa Manual includes info on how dogs learn, clicker training, how to get rid of bad behaviors (puppy biting, fear/aggression, separation anxiety, etc.), and how to teach good behaviors, like coming when called, the name, watch, relaxation, sit, down, stay, wait, touch, walking on leash, give, go to your bed, and more! Illustrations help make the information clear and entertaining.

Look at the bottom of this page for the exact topics covered plus reviews by Paul Owens and other dog behavior and training experts.

Purchase the eBook

eBook Formats: You should be able to read the book on pretty much any device. You’ll get access to all of these file types with your purchase.

  • MOBI (Amazon Kindle device and apps)
  • EPUB (Nook, iBooks, Google books, etc.)
  • PDF (Adobe on your computer, iBooks, etc.)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_001_ahimsa)]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the user info that you created.

Otherwise, please click here to purchase.

[/s2If]

Table of Contents (subject to change):

  • INTRODUCTION
  • COMMUNICATION & LEARNING GO BOTH WAYS
  • UNDERSTANDING YOUR DOG’S COMMUNICATION
  • LEARNING THEORY
    • Four types of consequences for behavior
    • Focus on the good stuff
    • Killing with kindness: a note on rewards
  • CLICKER TRAINING WORKS!
  • WHAT IS A CLICKER?
  • WHY DOES THE CLICKER WORK?
  • GETTING RID OF PROBLEM BEHAVIORS
  • JUMPING & OTHER ACCIDENTALLY TRAINED BEHAVIORS
  • HOUSETRAINING
  • PUPPY BITING & CHEWING
  • 15 TIPS TO STOP BARKING IN CLASS
  • FEAR, FRUSTRATION, AND AGGRESSION
    • Counterconditioning and systematic desensitization
    • Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT 2.0)
  • DON’T LEAVE ME! PREVENTING SEPARATION ANXIETY
  • HEY, THAT’S MINE! PREVENTING & DEALING WITH RESOURCE GUARDING
  • GOOD HABITS ARE HARD TO BREAK!
  • TEACHING RELIABLE BEHAVIORS
  • CHOICE POINTS-SET YOUR DOG UP FOR SUCCESS
  • NAME GAME
  • WATCH
  • RECALL CUE-COMING WHEN CALLED
    • Things to avoid when training Come
    • General tips for Come
    • Treat Party-the emergency recall cue
    • Practice all the time
    • Gradually make it harder
    • Treat fetching-A fun way to train and play!
    • More recall games
  • RELAXATION ON CUE
  • SIT
  • DOWN
  • RELEASE WORDS-ARE WE THERE YET?
    • Release cue
    • End of session cue
  • STAY
  • WAIT
  • TOUCH-TARGETING NOSE TO HAND
  • LOOSE LEASH WALKING
  • Click for attention / Click for position
    • Turn and follow
    • Focused walking (Touch and you’re heeled!)
    • Being a tree or backing up
    • Speed training
    • Penalty yards
    • Silky leash technique
  • LEAVE IT
  • GIVE OR DROP IT
  • TUG
  • RULES
  • 101 THINGS TO DO WITH A BOX
  • GO TO YOUR BED
  • CRATE TRAINING
  • ADDING A CUE TO ANY BEHAVIOR
  • GOOD LUCK AND KEEP IT UP
  • RESOURCES FOR EVEN MORE HELP
  • ABOUT THE AUTHOR

REVIEWS!

“Of the thousands of dog training books out there, it’s rare finding one that has something new to say or presents the science of positive training in a unique and meaningful way. Grisha’s new book, the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual, does just that. Clear, concise, informative and extremely user-friendly, this book deserves a prominent place on every trainer’s bookshelf.”

Paul Owens
Best-selling author of “The Dog Whisperer; A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training” (Adams Media, 1999) and “The Puppy Whisperer A Compassionate, Nonviolent Guide to Early Training and Care” (Adams Media, 2007)

*****
“This is it! This is the easy-to-read, concise handbook that every responsible dog owner will want to read. This manual spells out practical, step-by-step training solutions while educating the reader on the science behind the theory. Grisha is the leading authority on Behavior Adjustment Training, and shares her unique method of bringing about change in a positive, force-free, and fear-free environment. This book also shows us a way to teach loose-leash walking that is free from frustration and maps a clear strategy for us to follow.

Kyra Sundance
Renowned Stunt Dog Performer and author of best seller “101 Dog Tricks”

*****
“When Fido arrives at the intersection of Good Dog Street and Bad Dog Alley, which way will he go?” asks Grisha Stewart in her book, The Official Ahimsa Dog Training Manual: A Practical, Force-Free Guide to Problem Solving and Manners. Grisha’s book can help you manage Fido’s environment and train him to make good choices. She offers a variety of force-free ways to train common behaviors, and her writing is always engaging and as friendly as her methods. Your dog will definitely enjoy your training sessions based on this book.”

*****
-Teoti Anderson, CPDT-KA, KPA-CTP, Pawsitive Results, LLC, Lexington, SC
APDT Past President and of “Your Outta Control Puppy,” “Super Simple Guide to Housetraining,” “Quick & Easy Crate Training,” “Puppy Care and Training” and A”nimal Planet Dogs 101 Dog Training”


We sell the digital download version of this eBook.

Where to Buy the Other Versions

Common mispellings: ahisma, ahinsa, ashima

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_ebook_001_ahimsa)]

If you have purchased this eBook, please log in with the user info that you created.

Otherwise, please click here to purchase.

[/s2If]

10 Ways to Use the Symmetry Line

The Symmetry Line is an all-in-one dog leash that has many uses for emergency situations. The Symmetry Line is 16 feet (about 5 meters), has snaps on both ends and 2 moving snaps in the middle of the line, with 3 movable leather stoppers. It comes in many colors and is round and comfortable.

Full disclosure: Grisha invented this leash and sells it here on this site.
Continue reading 10 Ways to Use the Symmetry Line

(Video 42) Rainy Day Dogs: How to Exercise Your Dog Indoors

Without exercise, dogs can become destructive, bored, reactive, and physically unhealthy. Watch this video for solutions if you can’t walk your dog because of injury, weather, aggression, vaccination status, etc. Continue reading (Video 42) Rainy Day Dogs: How to Exercise Your Dog Indoors

Lesson 7: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

HOMEWORK

Making and reviewing a video of your work helps you learn more. You can even play it back in slow motion! It also gives you something to look back at later to see your own progress or if you need to share with someone to ask for help, you have an easy visual to refer to.

  1. Condition a relaxation cue as described in the earlier lesson, with an essential oil or a verbal cue. In your video, look for signs of relaxation or distress and see if you need to change anything.
  2. Condition a verbal relaxation cue by cueing your dog to relax just as you see him about to settle down at home (like as she circles to lie down for a nap, while she’s looking out the window but you can tell she is about to give up. Say your cue calmly and be quiet or praise very calmly. This is practically impossible to film so just do it without filming.
  3. SEC on switch. Practice as in the previous lesson. Is your SEC too startling? Too close/loud? If so, try to tone it down a bit.

[/s2If]

Lesson 6: (Reducing Arousal) Other Tips, Training

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

OTHER TIPS TO REDUCE AROUSAL

Here’s a variety of other suggestions to either use now or file away. It’s a lot so don’t expect to be able to do it all right away. Some of this may help your dog, some may not, but all of these suggestions are helpful to SOME dogs.

Aromatherapy may be of more help for *you* to calm down than your dog, but I’ve had success using valerian, lavender, ylang ylang, and other aromas with dogs. Blackwing Farms is a good site with some commercial blends, like Bitch Balm and Calm Balm that I’ve found to be helpful (note, we are not affiliated).

Calming music can be quite helpful for both you and your dog. The Through a Dog’s Ear series by Joshua Leeds and Lisa Spector has a few varieties. Here are some links: Volume 1, Volume 2, music for the driving with your dog, and even a version to comfort senior dogs. We play this sort of music in our puppy camp to help keep the dogs relaxed. This music is already calming, in my experience, but see below for a way to supercharge that by associating this music with a relaxed state of mind.

DAP (Adaptil) and Pet Remedy both have plug-ins that can reduce anxiety if that’s part of what’s happening with your dog. I prefer the spray for Pet Remedy because it is very smelly in the plugin form. My cat adores the spray and always rolls in it when I spray it in a room.

TTouch® (Tellington Touch) has a variety of tools that help dogs learn to calmly be ‘in the moment,’ including touch, body wraps, and ground work I like their proprioception exercises where the dog has a chance to pay attention to different parts of her body. This can be very helpful for reducing arousal, getting dogs used to harnesses or other kinds of touch, physical ailments, and a lot more. I highly recommend the Tawzer DVDs by Lori Stevens on this topic, as she also has a solid background in canine anatomy.

You might find it useful to get a heart monitor for your dog, so you have more data about her arousal level. The Polar equine heart monitor with Bluetooth can be used with dogs. Attach the leads to a harness to help it stay in place.

Karen Overall’s Relaxation Protocol is a step-by-step protocol for dogs who have trouble settling down at all. This is a very detailed protocol that is definitely not for everyone, because of the many steps. The people who have been able to go through it all find it to be quite helpful. Roxanne Hawn has recorded this protocol into daily MP3s, one per day for 15 days. Here’s the link. There is a bit that recommends restraining the dog and I DO NOT suggest doing it that way. Giving your dog the opportunity to relax; don’t try to force it into doing so. You should be able to do all of this without a leash at all if you are in a safe area.

TRAINING: CONDITIONING RELAXATION

I have found this protocol to be quite helpful. It is basically about making an association between a word, odor, or other stimulus with a state of relaxation, using classical conditioning. I first heard of this from Kathy Sdao many years ago and also have seen great explanations and videos by Ute Blaschke-Berthold from Germany. I think the term “Conditioned Relaxation” was coined by Kayce Cover from the US.

I use a very simple version of this, basically what Kathy Sdao taught me many years ago. Associate something (like lavender, a word, calming music, or a particular bed or rug) with relaxation by having that relaxed state follow the introduction of the stimulus. You can do this systematically, but for the verbal cue, you can also do it just by labeling what is happening.

For example, when you see your dog circle to settle down, yawn or calmly say your cue. I use “reeee-lax.”  Then your dog relaxes (which she was going to do anyway). Also say that cue just before you do calm petting or massage. Eventually, the dog can hear that cue and begin to relax.

Alternatively, apply a tiny amount of lavender to the back of your hands for massage time, so that when your dog smells lavender, a calm massage is about to happen. Only do this if your dog will definitely relax with the massage.

Later, you can apply the lavender to the harness or a bandana to use in situations where your dog needs an added relaxation boost.

Here are two ways. Pick a time when your dog is already close to being relaxed.

  1. Associate the presence of an essential oil (lavender or some other scent like ylang ylang or vetivir) and massage. Do 1-2 massages per day. Keep one hand in contact with your dog while the other moves around to massage. Stop occasionally to see if the dog is still interested.
  2. Associate the verbal Relax cue (or yawn) with something calm, like massage.

If massage is not possible for your dog because he does not like to be touched, work on that instead. Emily Larlham (kikopup) has a great video on teaching dogs to be comfortable being touched.

I would combine that with the 5-second rule and the More Please Signal (where your dog does some behavior to say that this is worth his while). For example, your dog can touch your hand or lean toward you to say that he would like more petting. When you are done, give the All Done signal.

Also start to associate the verbal cue mentioned above at times when your dog is already about to relaxed, but this will be hard to film so don’t worry about submitting that.

TRAINING: SUDDEN ENVIRONMENTAL CHANGE AS AN ON SWITCH

It’s helpful to teach your dog that if something suddenly changes in the environment, looking at you is a great option of what to do next (instead of, say, running over to the thing). So the sudden environmental change (SEC) becomes a cue to pay attention to you.

Examples of SECs (sudden environmental changes):

  • You are in a training hall and someone opens a door
  • You are in a training hall and someone walks through a door
  • You are in a training hall and someone walks through a door with a dog
  • Same as the first three items above, but in a field with a gate
  • Same as the first three items above, but in a house
  • In your home and a noise plays (you can do this with your phone, especially if you have a Bluetooth speaker)
  • In your home and someone drops something in another room or nearby

Set up a situation where there will be a mild SEC out of the blue. By ‘mild’ I mean that the dog is a little interested and definitely notices it, but is not scared or too startled. If is is a physical trigger that your dog may run to, have your dog on a leash and harness or have a fence/barrier between your dog and whatever is happening.

Ideally you would start this exercise with your dog just being a dog – sniffing the ground, relaxing, etc. However, if the stimulus is too interesting and you can’t reduce the intensity enough just to get a mild response, you may have to start with your dog in working mode before the sound. That gives you a better chance of getting your dog’s attention after the stimulus.

  1. When your dog perceives the SEC her ear will flick toward it, her head will turn, or there will be some other small physical change. This tells you she has perceived it. If she barks, the stimulus was too exciting but carry on with the steps below for now.
  2. Immediately cue her attention using the signal trained in the first lesson.
  3. Just as in that lesson, mark and reinforce attention several times.
  4. Release the dog with “All Done” and then allow her to go check out the stimulus (or go together). I’m assuming this is a safe thing to do. If it’s not safe, just have your dog do Find It or move away and go do something else together.
  5. Wait enough time so that the SEC is a surprise again. This may be several minutes. The more of a surprise it is, the more likely it is that your dog will respond with reactivity, so take that into account.

Start with a very mild SEC and use that during your training sessions until your dog automatically starts looking at you when the SEC event occurs. Then build up to more and more distracting stimuli, like the sound of dog tags.

If you can’t find an SEC stimulus that is mild enough to avoid barking, or your dog notices something else in your environment as you work, you can click as soon as your dog notices the stimulus instead of cueing the turn and then clicking after. If it is a stimulus that you control, try to make it easier for your dog. Try muffling it if it’s a sound, having it be less of a surprise if it’s visual, by changing the speed or angle of approach, for example.

In the moment, if your dog barks just have the stimulus go away, or move away from the stimulus, and let your dog relax. Mark when she turns to you, as above. Take a break for a bit and figure out how to make things easier for your dog to turn to you next time.

[/s2If]

Lesson 5: (Reducing Arousal) Exercise, Brain, Diet

Week 2: Reducing Arousal

  • Exercise (What do to and what to avoid)
  • Brain Games
  • Diet
  • Other Tips to Reduce Arousal
  • Training: Conditioned Relaxation
  • Training: Sudden Environmental Change as an On Switch

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

EXERCISE

When I mention exercise, people tend to think of fetching balls or toys. That’s a very intense exercise that tends to leave the dog tired, but still amped up. If you look at the life of a feral dog or a wolf, you don’t see that kind of intense chase-chase-chase. You see an animal seeking out a food source and acquiring it (in a burst of activity if they are hunting), consuming, then resting.

So it’s not that you can’t give your dog toys or even play a little fetch, but here’s a general rule of thumb:

  • seeking exercises are preferred to repeated chase-bite exercises
  • if you do an intense activity, help your dog calm down afterwards

By “seeking” exercises, I mean activities that put your dog in seeking mode, engaging the SEEKING system that Panksepp describes. When a dog is exploring her environment, she gets a cascade of dopamine, the neurotransmitter associated with euphoria. A long walk in an interesting area, for example, where you let your dog stop to smell along the way, is ideal.

The SEEKING system is that which impels us to seek our environment for information that will help us survive, whether the location of tasty nuts or a link on a new internet dating service. “It allows animals to go out in the world and enthusiastically look for the resources needed to live.” Dopamine-energized, this mesolimbic SEEKING system, arising from the ventral tegmental area (VTA), encourages foraging, exploration, investigation, curiosity, interest and expectancy. Dopamine fires each time the rat (or human) explores its environment. “I can look at the animal and tell when I am tickling its SEEKING system,” Panksepp explained. “Because it is exploring and sniffing.”

(from “Depressed? Your SEEKING System Might Not Be Working: A Conversation with Neuroscientist Jaak Panksepp”)

Want a more technical article? Click here.

Want a video? Here’s Panskepp doing a TED talk (it’s about 17 minutes long):

Back to your dog. For another an example of an activity, hiding a tennis ball or food puzzle for your dog to find will tire your dog out and engage the SEEKing system, yet it builds up a lot less arousal. As they say, “A tired dog is a good dog,” but being physically exhausted and still hopped up on adrenaline is not ideal. Providing exercise that involves exploration, where your dog has to use her brain and senses to go find something, helps her truly get tired and relaxed.

If you do fetch with your dog, then finish up with something that’s more calming, like secretly scattering a handful of treats in your backyard as your dog goes to fetch. Then get the ball back and signal All Done and let your dog go find the treats on her own (don’t make it an exciting game where you chant “find it”). Alternatively, going to a forest or some other smell-rich location for a walk afterwards can also be calming. A calm massage session can also help your dog practice the off-switch.

Tug games should also be followed with a time of relaxation. I am of two minds about tug. It can be a great way to help your dog learn to alternate between excitement and relaxation, if you practice doing so. If you play tug and then leave the dog with that level of excitement, it is probably not helpful for her frustration later. I found that when I stopped doing tug and fetch with Peanut, his overall arousal level dropped nicely and he had more self control in other settings.

A treadmill is also a good option for exercise for your dog. I recommend that if you do this, you film so that you can watch your dog’s body to be sure she’s not walking in a way that’s uncomfortable or might give her some pain. For example, if you only ever stand on one side of the treadmill, she will walk with her head turned that way and that may lead to pain. Or if the speed is too slow or fast, she might walk with an awkward gait. This video from the Canis Film Festival is a good start on how to teach your dog to be comfortable with the treadmill:

In the next section, we’ll discuss more brain games as a way to help reduce your dog’s overall arousal and also help her have a more interesting and satisfying life.

BRAIN GAMES

While dogs, like people, will take food that is offered to them, that’s not what they prefer. In fact, decades of research on contrafreeloading indicates that animals prefer to work for their food rather than having it provided for free. Well, most animals. It seems that cats actually do like having staff. So instead of putting your dog’s food in a bowl each day, have him work for some or all of it by putting it into food puzzles.

Food puzzles and exploration of the natural world are both good for the brain and your dog’s overall welfare. As researchers on the “eureka” effect wrote, “opportunities to solve problems, make decisions, and exercise cognitive skills are important to an animal’s emotional experiences and ultimately, its welfare.”

Food puzzles come in many shapes and sizes and you can even make your own. For example, I made puzzles out of empty vegan ice cream containers for Peanut and Sagan:

You can get your dog interested in tennis balls, acclimated to the sound of metal, and entertain her, all at the same time, by making this easy food puzzle. Video is by Debbie Oliver CPDT-KSA of Miss Daisy’s Dog Camp:

<p”>Get creative! There are lots of great commercial food puzzles out there, but using some creativity will also help you check off your Rule of Twelve checklist at the same time. For example, letting your puppy knock around a plastic milk jug with kibble in it will help him with sound sensitivity. In that case, your dog is the one that makes the sound happen. We are usually less afraid of events that we can control.

Jolein van Weperen is a great dog trainer and author in the Netherlands who specializes in impulse control and environmental enrichment. I was very impressed with her wide variety of puzzles and toys for dog “brainwork.”  I love the way she trains. It is available in in English and in the original Dutch.

Here’s Emily Larlham’s video of Jolein’s puzzles:

Here’s some more. The “Treat Trapper” is an exercise that is meant to be done in a relaxed and thoughtful way, not just throwing it around. Watch how Jolein teaches this, in two parts. It’s pretty clear, even if you don’t speak Dutch:

Here’s another video by Jolein with one more puzzle idea:

Here’s another video I like, on how to make  a Snuffle Mat, by dog trainer Lindsay Kinney of Kinney Canine Academy in Minnesota:

DIET

Nutrition plays a big role in the physical and mental wellbeing of our dogs. Their diet can influence their attention span, stress level, and frustration tolerance. If your dog doesn’t feel well or is full of corn and sugar, you’ll get a different response than if your dog is healthy.

Many dogs are allergic to common food ingredients, like chicken or grains. This can lead to itchiness, upset digestive systems, and other issues that might be part of the reason your dog can’t seem to sit still or is easily frustrated. Imagine having an itchy rash or an upset belly and then having to focus on doing your taxes!

I’ve found that for skin and gastrointestinal issues, a holistic veterinarian or licensed canine nutritionist is usually a better resource than a regular western veterinarian. If you have a dog who is taking pills for allergies, there may be some better remedies based on food alone.

Very high protein foods can also cause dogs to be hyperactive, so when you prepare or purchase your dog’s food, look for a moderate to low amount of protein, from a good source (avoiding words like “by-product,” “meat,” “animal,” and “digest.” Carbs should come from low-glycemic index foods, rather than ingredients such as corn, which are high in sugar. Dogs who are already high energy don’t need to be amped up on protein bars all day.

[/s2If]

Lesson 4: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

  1. Practice the food puzzle version of On / Off Switch. Film it and take a look at your dog’s body language. Are you going at the right pace or are you causing frustration? Is the lesson clear to your dog?
  2. Rehearse your BAT leash skills first before doing #3. Work in an enriched environment or add Sprinkles so your dog will be busy being a dog.  Walk casually in BAT style with your dog, starting with the leash in ‘basic position’ – Handle, Braking Distance, hands relaxed, and about 2 yards/meters from the dog. Have about one time of Slide and one of Mime Pulling, but mostly just relaxed BAT walking. Watch your video of doing this this first before the next exercise. Do you have enough braking distance? Are your arms relaxed at your side when your dog stops? Are you following (as you should be unless you have to lead away from something) or accidentally leading? Look for leaning and subtle signs, not just obvious ones.
  3. Outside on a 15-foot (5-meter) leash, practice On Switch / Off Switch by reinforcing your check-in cue once and then giving your All Done cue. Then use the BAT leash skills to follow your dog as your dog sniffs the area. Work in an area that your dog would want to investigate that’s not so distracting he can’t check in with you. Bushes are more interesting than open fields. If your area is boring, sprinkle parmesan cheese or something with odor (like sheep dung) in the grass first.

[/s2If]

Lesson 3: (What is Frustration) Training

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

COURSE OVERVIEW

In this class we’ll work through some great training tools to reinforce attention to you around distractions. But that’s not the main point. My mission for this course is to get you to think in terms of needs. I want you think about how to empower your dog to meet his (or her!) needs, either through immediate action or patience.

This is not just a class about reinforcing behavior that you like. It’s about learning to pay attention and communicate back and forth with our dogs, so we can minimize frustration on both ends of the leash. The solution is to balance your needs and wants with your dogs. Setting boundaries clearly and humanely is an important start. It is equally important to anticipate your dog’s wants and needs and orchestrate a fulfilled lifestyle. You would never starve a dog and then complain that he whines from hunger. Similarly, we should not block a dog from getting his social, exercise, and other needs met and complain when he lets us know.

No wonder so many dogs are barking mad! Human behavior can be crazy-making.

TRAINING: ON / OFF SWITCH

off-switchI’d like to start with a very basic behavior of the dog checking in with you on cue, paired with a release to go be a dog. Checking in on cue in is a good immediate management device that can help dogs who are very focused on dogs, bicycles, or other stimuli in the environment. Looking at something and checking back in with you is also a way for a dog to communicate to you what he wants or needs in a way that’s comfortable for you as well.

For now, let’s work with the behavior on a verbal cue and then we will transfer it to distractions, so that the distractions themselves become a cue to check in for a bit.

You probably have already worked on attention with your dog, by specifically training his name or a Watch cue. But when you get the dog’s attention, you also have to make sure to then let the dog be a dog most of the time, too. Working with you for treats or play doesn’t satisfy all the social and mental needs of your dog.

Translation: don’t just teach your dog to be glued to your side. I firmly believe that teaching your dog to look at you whenever other dogs are around, no matter what, is not a humane option for dealing with simple frustration and certainly not a good idea with a puppy. It robs the dog all of the subtleties of just be a dog. But responding to a request for attention is still an essential part of being a dog among humans (and the reverse is also true).

What should you choose for an attention cue? The name is pretty straightforward for this, as it means “pay attention: what comes next is for you” If the dog has some negative association with his name, pick something else.

Let’s say you use the dog’s name as a check in cue with your dog. That starts a conversation of cues, with your dog paying attention to you to see what’s in it for him. From there you can reinforce attention until you are done needing it, and then specifically let him know he’s done using the All Done cue.

This is the end of session cue, a true “go be a dog,” not just an “okay, go do that and come right back right away because I feed your addiction.” This part is just as important as the name. Be clear when you are done with the dog to give him some predictability and avoid or cope with frustration. We talk about this in the Building Blocks lessons as one of the 6 most important cues to teach. Look for “6 Cue Words that Every Pet Should Know.”

Here’s a discussion for parents demonstrating the All Done / Finished sign in American Sign Language. I include this video to show you the hand signal, but I also like her discussion. Note that being able to ask or communicate “All Done” is something that helps reduce frustration in people for whom verbal communication is challenging: babies, people with autism, hearing issues, ALS, etc.

For the version of the On / Off Switch activity that I want you to do, there should be something that the dog is actually mildly interested in that is safe for him to explore. Have 10 treats that are better than everything else in the current environment. So for example, you can have your 10 crazy good treats in one bowl on your table and a food puzzle with so-so treats at the ready so the dog can go get it after the All Done cue. (Variation: just toss a handful of so-so treats instead of feeding a puzzle at the end).

When your dog is not looking at you, say his name (or whatever you pick for your check-in cue) and your dog will acknowledge your words in some way. Examples:

  • ear twitch
  • eye contact
  • head turn
  • body turn

off-switch-2 Click and treat any and all of these in rapid succession, until you are almost out of treats. You may also want to step away from your dog after each click so that you can click when your dog chooses to follow you. For your last few great treats, click and toss them in one direction.

Set the food puzzle down for the dog the other direction (or scatter some so-so treats that way). Step on the toy so your dog can’t get to it yet.

Call your dog. When your dog looks at you one last time, praise him and say “All Done” and give the All Done hand signal.

Then walk past the food puzzle or scattered treats so that your dog encounters the odor.

As your dog enjoys those treats, go do something else – read a book, the Panksepp article above, whatever. But do not start training again. You can probably do it again in 30 minutes or an hour, if you want to, but not right away. The idea is to let your dog know he’s really truly off the clock when you say All Done.

As time goes on, vary the reinforcer so that sometimes you click and tug for a bit, sometimes you click and play fetch, etc. But at the end, you give the All Done cue and the dog is free to go be a dog. Coming back to you at that point does not work to get you back into training.

Try to work in natural settings as soon as possible, so the All Done cue just means to go back to sniffing on a walk, for example, or return to play with his friends.

[/s2If]

Lesson 2: (What is Frustration) Needs

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

WHY IS MY DOG DOING THIS?

rolling-dogIt’s actually pretty simple. Frustration comes from behavior that’s supposed to work a certain way being blocked or not working. It’s unclear what he should do to get what he needs or wants.

We can be just as frustrating to our dogs as they are to us. So what do we do about it? One thing is to look at what needs the dog has that are not being met, and help him have ways to meet those needs. We’ll discuss that more in depth in lessons 3 and 4, but here’s a taste.

When we bring a dog into our home, we become his caretaker. Simply by having the dog in human society, in our homes or on our property, we have taken away many of the ways that dogs are able to meet their own needs. Just like caretakers at a modern zoo, our roles as canine caretakers is to provide ways for dogs meet their needs. In this lesson, I have split dogs’ needs into the following categories.

  • Safety and comfort
  • Survival of the species/social group (reproduction)
  • Food/Water Intake
  • Food/Water Outlet
  • Family / Social Interaction
  • Other Environmental Enrichment

I’ll comment a bit on each category above.

Safety means both physical and emotional safety. With our dogs, that means only having them in situations that they can handle, and helping them feel comfortable in a variety of situations. It’s our responsibility to provide and prepare our dogs for grooming required for health and comfort (like tooth brushing and nail trimming for all breeds and fur brushing or even trimming for some breeds) and veterinary care, including vaccinations to prevent disease. Vaccines save lives, but they are not entirely benign. Don’t skip necessary vaccines, but also look into whether a particular vaccine is really needed for your dog’s lifestyle and location.

Physical exercise is primarily in the safety category, because insufficient exercise is a health risk. We must do so in a safe way, however, like training a solid recall and using a leash and harness near traffic. It also means not letting them run off leash toward on-leash dogs, and also removing the leash (if it’s safe) or leaving the area if a loose dog comes to them. I cringe whenever I see a poor puppy on a leash surrounded by dogs. No matter how friendly the dogs are, it’s quite scary for the puppy, who has nowhere to go. He’s like bait on a rope. If the area is enclosed and the dogs are friendly and well socialized, you might choose to let your dog off-leash. Otherwise, it’s probably best to move on and avoid the stress.

Part of physical safety is protection from the elements, with my preference being that the dog lives indoors, with the family, and gets enough sleep. Adult dogs rest 12 to 16 hours each day and a 3-month old puppy would need more like 15 or 20 hours per day. That means paying attention to where his sleeping areas are, keeping children out of there, etc. After exciting play times, don’t just leave your dog all revved up. Do something to help him relax afterwards, like scattering a handful of treats in your yard or doing calm massage.

The individual dog needs to be safe, but the species and the family also need to survive. Humans know that dogs are doing pretty well as a species, and in fact we have more dogs than we can care for. Not every dog needs to breed. But it is our responsibility to encourage breeders to select mentally and physically sound dogs that thrive in human care. I’m on my soapbox here, but we owe our dogs a good future as a species and that means we need to stop breeding for looks at the expense of sanity and health.

dog-doorFood and water need to go in and out of your dog’s system on a regular basis. Nutrition is beyond the scope of this course, but do pay attention to the food that goes into your puppy’s body. A dog’s diet has an effect on energy levels, overall health, lifespan, receptivity to training, and even can contribute to anxiety and other behavioral issues.

Water should be available to your dog at all times and never withdrawn as punishment. Make sure you have water available even when your dog is alone, rather than taking it up to avoid the need to urinate.

For food and water to get out of your dog’s body in a way that you don’t mind, your dog needs regular walks or access to the outdoors. Leaving your dog outside all day, however, may introduce him to certain things he’s not able to handle, like teasing children. He may learn to bark at passersby because he is afraid of them or is trying to get their attention. The same applies to a dog door being open when you are not home.

According to the Association of Zoos and Aquariums article on enrichmentenvironmental enrichment is “the dynamic process for enhancing animal environments within the context of the animals’ behavioral biology and natural history.” Environmental enrichment is basically about giving the animals a chance to make choices that matter.

baby-elephantAZA writes, “Environmental changes are made with the goal of increasing the animals’ behavioral choices and drawing out their species-appropriate behaviors, thus enhancing animal welfare.” Enrichment includes natural social groupings to promote social interaction, as well as sensory enrichment, food enrichment, and training. We can do a lot of this with our dogs. For example:

  • Having more than one dog in your home (not always possible or advisable)
  • Play dates or walks with other dogs
  • Learning to understand our dogs’ behavior
  • Early socialization with many dogs outside of the family, so that your dog understands how to communicate with his own species (and wants to)
  • Not continuously training (allow natural behaviors and choices whenever possible)
  • Going for walks in places with interesting smells, surfaces, etc.
  • Food puzzles of various complexity (more on that later in this lecture)
  • More odors, puzzles, sounds, etc. if dog is housebound
  • Training that serves a purpose for the dog (focus on behaviors that help the dog)

Those are all needs that dogs might have. In the moment, your dog may have a particular need or even a want. Have these needs in mind when you observe your dog’s behavior. Teach specific behavior that helps him communicate his wants and needs. We’ll discuss this more later in the course.

[/s2If]

Lesson 1: (What is Frustration) Definitions

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

We have the lessons clustered into weeks, but don’t be put off by that if you need to take more time. It’s very common to spend 2-3 weeks on each “week” of lessons from here.

Week 1: What is Frustration?

  • Dictionary Definition
  • Human examples
  • What Does Frustration Look Like in Dogs
  • How Do I Know Whether It’s Frustration or Fear? Does it Matter?
  • Why is My Dog Doing This?
  • Course Overview
  • Training: Practice BAT Leash Skills
  • Training: On Switch / Off Switch

pulling-dog-smaller“DICTIONARY” DEFINITIONS

Here’s how the Google dictionary defines frustration. It is both a feeling and the event that causes that feeling.

frus·tra·tion  frəˈstrāSHən/  noun

  1. the feeling of being upset or annoyed, especially because of inability to change or achieve something. Example: “I sometimes feel like screaming with frustration.”
  2. an event or circumstance that causes one to have a feeling of frustration. Plural noun: frustrations. Example: “the inherent frustrations of assembly line work.”

I would add that we feel more frustration when there’s something we expect to be able to achieve or change, and yet it does not work. While we can’t say that dogs feel frustration in the same way that we do, we do see their behavior change in ways that are similar to humans when they are “unable to achieve something,” i.e., when their behavior does not have the expected effect. Regardless of species, frustration is definitely an aversive emotional state.

Bean’s kick is a sign of frustration. Sneezing is another common behavior.

I found this Wikipedia article on frustration to be interesting. Some of it can’t really be applied to dogs, particularly since we can’t talk with them about it, but this part resonated with me:

“Frustration can be considered a problem–response behavior, and can have a number of effects, depending on the mental health of the individual. In positive cases, this frustration will build until a level that is too great for the individual to contend with, and thus produce action directed at solving the inherent problem. In negative cases, however, the individual may perceive the source of frustration to be outside of their control, and thus the frustration will continue to build, leading eventually to further problematic behavior (e.g. violent reaction).”

And finally, I’d also like to share these definitions compiled by Ken Ramirez in the glossary of his book, Animal Training: Successful Animal Management Through Positive Reinforcement.

Frustration:

  • Emotional behavior prompted by the thwarting or interruption of goal seeking activity.
  • A term used in two ways. In one sense, frustration refers to any interference with the satisfaction of a motive. In another sense, frustration refers to the consequences or interval state resulting from such interferences with goal directed behavior.

HUMAN EXAMPLES

Technology can definitely lead to frustration. For example, you may have experienced a learning curve for this site, or when posting videos to YouTube. Whether that process is frustrating or not depends, in large part, on how effective your behavior is—i.e., whether what you try works as you expect. If you are familiar with YouTube and can easily upload your files and change settings, you won’t feel much frustration. If YouTube changes the process or you haven’t learned how to use it yet, there’s bound to be some frustration.

Here’s another tech example. I read through a review of a new smartphone recently. Frustration is on my mind, because of this course, and the person’s frustration jumped right out at me. If our dogs could share their experiences, it might be something similar. Here’s what happened with the phone purchase. First, the user had trouble installing applications, but was eventually successful. I’ll highlight some points in the review below.

I used the apps I was able to install, and I found myself befuddled a number of times. There’s no software back button support. Some apps have a working back button within them, but not all, and there were times I felt trapped in whatever I was using, like Gretel after the breadcrumbs were eaten.

Swiping was supposed to help, as was flicking your wrist, but the responses were inconsistent. I thought I was fumbly and inept until I shared my phone with an IT pro and he also found that there were times where he’d flick his wrist 3 or 4 times without success. You’d feel so frustrated you’d want to start shaking it uncontrollably, then fling it into the wall. I loved catching him in those moments, our frustration shared. Navigation that was effortless on an android tablet became convoluted and difficult. MANY things that felt effortless on a full blown android were obscured or disabled.

A phase swirled in my head, “you can’t get there from here.”

airplane2That review is clearly full of frustration. As I tried to get from Copenhagen to Madrid yesterday in the middle of a pilot strike, I have to admit that I had a complete frustration meltdown. Between the lost luggage, rerouting to different airlines and cities, and endless bureaucracy, my patience was running thin.

If I were a dog, I’d definitely have started biting at my leash.

Having already written part of this lesson, the line “You can’t get there from here” swirled in my head, too.

When behavior fails to achieve a desired response at the usual rate, there is frustration.

Back to the phone, frustration would have been avoided if the person had no expectations of being able to do certain things on the phone, or if the swiping had worked (i.e., the behavior had been effective). If it was clearly a gamble, that one just has to swipe a few times and it will work about every other time, then that would reduce the frustration. But the expectation was that it should have worked consistently. I should have been able to quickly get from Copenhagen to Madrid with my luggage, but I could not. Enter frustration.

Frustration is reduced when we have alternate behavior that’s likely to work. Say you are in the shower and it starts to get cold. You change the setting and even colder water comes out. You quickly realize you’ve made a mistake and you turn the hot water tap instead, setting the temperature back to what you want. It’s a bit frustrating, but it’s still under your control. Unless you have had a bad morning already or have low impulse control for some other reason, you’re probably not going to flip out when you just turned the wrong tap. Your behavior didn’t work as expected, at first, but it you still have control.

On the other hand, if you are in a shower in a hotel and can’t figure out how to warm up the freezing water, no matter what you try, it’s a lot more frustrating.

Think about some of the times that your dog melts down in frustration. Does it seem a bit like the shower scenario? Something was supposed to work and now it doesn’t?

WHAT DOES FRUSTRATION LOOK LIKE IN DOGS?

Behavior evolved to have an effect. That’s the whole point of behavior. It helps you get what you need or want and avoid everything else. Like people, dogs respond in many ways when their behavior is not effective. A tiny frustration occurs when he has another behavior that is likely to work and so he just calmly does that instead. Sit doesn’t get the treat, so he lies down and is reinforced. That dog is able to cope with the frustration.

The frustration that’s problematic is when the dog does not have another behavior that’s likely to work, either, and arousal spins out of control.

For example, when a dog tries to walk forward toward another dog and he’s unable to move, that behavior is “on extinction” meaning that it’s not being reinforced. The dog may try harder to pull forward (“extinction burst” or “invigoration”), whine, bark, jump, even turn around and snap at the handler. If any of those things work, that behavior becomes more likely.

When he tries to greet using a wiggling body and the behavior is ignored, he may jump up into the person’s face. When he is given one too many cues in a behavior chain without reinforcement, the dog shows frustration. The consequences aren’t as expected. The reinforcement was under the dog’s control in the past and then during this exercise, it wasn’t. Some dogs will calmly push through this, while others will shut down, whine or bark at the handler.

Examples of behavior in response to frustration:

  • whining
  • avoidance of trainer who is not ‘paying’ as expected during extinction trials (turn away, walking away, sniffing, lying down)
  • barking at the trainer
  • barking at the goal (treat pouch, squirrel in tree, other dog, etc.) Higher pitched barking at other dogs (‘puppy bark’).
  • rapid breathing
  • exaggerated form of previous behavior
  • biting at the leash
  • ‘guessing’ at cues (inconsistent response)
  • circus dog (dog throws out random behavior to see if any will be reinforced)

Some frustration is just part of life and we do want to help dogs show patience and resilience in the face of frustration. But our work with dogs should maximize reinforcement and limit the amount of frustration they experience. I don’t mean it necessarily maximizes reinforcement from us. I mean that the dog’s behavior works as expected (or better). “Errorless learning” is more efficient and it also avoids increasing arousal.

It also avoids triggering the RAGE system in the brain. Thinking of the affective brain as being composed of different systems is discussed in Jaak Panksepp’s book, Affective Neuroscience: The Foundations of Human and Animal Emotions. Click here for a description of that system and what happens in the mammalian brain when this system is lit up.

Here’s a nice excerpt from that article:

Regarding the kinds of stimuli that can access RAGE circuitry, Panksepp points to such things as body surface irritation or when one does not receive an expected reward. He explains that the most common triggers of rage “are the irritations and frustrations that arise from events that restrict freedom of action or access to resources.” He points out that “a human baby typically becomes enraged if its freedom of action is restricted simply by holding its arms to its sides.” Activation of RAGE circuits is “accompanied by an invigoration of the musculature, with corresponding increases in autonomic indices such as heart rate, blood pressure, and muscular blood flow.” According to Panksepp, the phrase “getting hot under the collar,” is accurate in that body temperature also increases during rage.

IS IT FRUSTRATION OR FEAR? DOES IT MATTER?

Many dogs have a combination of avoidance and attraction to other dogs. If they are off leash, they rush over frantically and then fall over themselves getting as small as possible. Or they run up to within a few feet and then stop, unwilling to go closer. When the dog is on leash, it looks like he really wants to get over there, but in fact, he’d really rather not. Using Panksepp’s terminology, the RAGE and FEAR systems may both be activated.

The good news is that BAT and the other work we’re doing here are useful for dogs in general. Both fear and frustration are aversive states and we want to help the dog not have to experience either very much (although we’d especially want to avoid much fear).

That said, if the dog is only barking from frustration, it’s going to be a lot easier to help bring things around than if the dog is also afraid. Once he has an effective way to get what he wants, the problem is solved. If the behavior is more emotionally driven, it’s still powerful for the dog to learn that his behavior is effective, but it takes time to build trust in other dogs, people, etc.

It’s important to not label your dog’s behavior as only frustration or fear or whatever else. Look at the dog you have in that moment. Watch for signs of distress and help him keep his arousal level low.

[/s2If]

Lesson 0: Review the BAT Leash Skills

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

BAT 101 (or equivalent) is a prerequisite for this course. One of the things from BAT 101 that’s important is the BAT Leash Skills.

If you originally took BAT 101 when we were offering it at Fenzi, you get free access here in ABBA as well. Click to apply.

[/s2If]

Course Overview (Syllabus)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

HOW TO USE THESE LESSONS

Read through the lessons at your own pace. Every 2-4 lessons, we will pause to give you some tasks to practice. Each set of lessons with practice is meant to take about a week or so.

If you haven’t already signed up for membership, consider doing so because it is a great way to stay motivated. One thing members get is access to Grisha’s ABBA Facebook group. You can post videos and ask/answer questions in a discussion with your fellow ABBA members. The group is moderated by our teaching staff to keep the conversations on track. If you are a Pro member, you can cut your BAT set-up videos to short clips and share in the live BAT chats.

 

The agenda is listed with weekly lessons, but you can take whatever time you need.  Most people actually take about 2 weeks per lesson. You keep access to the course on our site and can log in any time.

Week 1: What is Frustration?

  • Dictionary Definition
  • Human examples
  • What Does Frustration Look Like in Dogs
  • How Do I Know Whether It’s Frustration or Fear? Does it Matter?
  • Why is My Dog Doing This?
  • Course Overview
  • Training: Practice BAT Leash Skills
  • Training: On/Off Switch

Week 2: Reducing Arousal

  • Exercise (What to do and what to avoid)
  • Brain Games
  • Diet
  • Other Tips to Reduce Arousal
  • Training: Conditioning Relaxation
  • Training: Sudden Environmental Change as an On Switch

Week 3: Control is a Basic Need

  • Science on Control
  • More Please Signal
  • Premack’s Principle — Overview
  • Training: Hand Targeting
  • Training: Mark and Move and other Survival Skills (brief review)

Week 4: Meeting Needs

  • Using Premack’s Principle Wisely
  • What are YOUR Dog’s Unmet Needs?
  • Training: On/Off Switch with Premack’s Principle
  • Training: Speed Training for Loose Leash Walking

Week 5: BAT

  • BAT Set-Up for Frustration
  • History of BAT & Frustration
  • Training: Silky Leash Technique for Loose Leash Walking

Week 6: Predictability and Consistency

  • Why Predictability and Consistency are Important
  • “What do you want me to do?”
  • “What works here?”
  • How to Add Predictability to Your Dog’s Life
  • BAT Set-Up for Frustration

Lesson 25: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

Congratulations! You made it to the end of the material for this course. Here is my final advice.

  • Get started on the food bowl exercise. Take your time with this. Slow and steady is good. Film it and see if there’s any way you can make it easier for your puppy.
  • Practice bring/drop in one or both ways described above. Again, expect this to take time.
  • Make a list of skills that you would like to teach your puppy to prevent or solve problems. Prioritize them based on your individual puppy, and check back to your list from time to time.
  • Do 3 treat parties per day for the next month and then once a week throughout your puppy’s first year. Vary the locations.
  • Continue practicing the cooperative grooming exercises from last week until they are usable in real life.
  • Continue socialization with other puppies, dogs, and people throughout your dog’s first year. Keep socializing beyond that as well, but the first year is especially important.

[/s2If]

Lesson 24: (Problem Solving) Training Bring/Drop, Food Bowl, Recall

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

TRAINING

  • Bring/Drop
  • Food Bowl
  • Recall

I chose these three behaviors as the final ones to cover in this course because they help people and dogs live more safely together. Resource guarding often shows up in young puppies. Guarding an object from people is the easiest type of aggression to rehabilitate, and yet many dogs are given up or euthanized because of it, so I wanted to be sure to go over two easy tips to help prevent it in your puppy.

If you feel that there is any risk to you during these exercises, trust your instinct and contact a trainer to work with you in person.

Bring/Drop. If your puppy will bring you anything and drop it, guarding of objects pretty much disappears. The Food Bowl exercise that is next will cover the times when your puppy can’t actually bring the thing it is guarding, so we have all aspects covered.

My favorite way to teach drop is to start with an object that the puppy is interested in enough to carry, but is not totally crazy about. I’ll call it a “toy,” but it could be your shoe, a crumpled piece of paper, or even a frozen hot dog (but that is advanced). For this method to work, your puppy should be able to grab something and move with it in her mouth. She must also recognize that the sound of a clicker means that a treat is coming.

Start in a hallway or narrow piece of land outside, like a beach. Toss the toy or get someone to give it to her. As she grabs the toy, encourage her to run toward you by moving away from her down the hallway. She is not bringing you the toy at this point, she is trying to run past you. At about 3 feet (1 meter) before she gets to you, click.

  • If she drops the toy, feed her some treats and then let her see you toss a few more treats about another meter or two away. Very casually grab the toy. If she turns back to you, feed her some more or toss the toy again.
  • If she doesn’t drop the toy, move away from her, probably back the way she came from. When she is about to zoom past you again, click again and toss a treat. Repeat until she drops the toy.
  • If she never drops the toy, then your treats are not yummy enough or the toy was too exciting, and you need to practice with a more boring toy. Get some better treats and do a little bribing trade, presenting the treats near the corner of her mouth.

Very soon, she will be running to you on purpose. Keep clicking just before she gets there. When she is reliably bringing it to you, wait to click until after she has dropped the toy. Do that for a while and then you can start to say “Bring It” as she is running for the toy and “Drop” just before she drops the toy anyway.

Continue clicking and treating for Drop a bit longer and then you can start to just have the toy toss itself be the reinforcement for dropping the toy. If she brings you something that’s not really a toy, reinforce by tossing a toy instead.

Tip: If you have a Building Blocks membership, check out the video on Drop. Look for “Drop It! How to Train a Fast, Reliable Drop.”

Variations:

  • Instead of tossing the item, have her wait as you go set it down somewhere. Release her to go get it. Be sure that has picked it up before you give the Bring It cue. When this becomes reliable, start to hide the object, telling her to Find It after her release cue.
  • Get her to bring you an empty food puzzle. When she drops it, praise her and show her that you are filling up the puzzle. Give it back to her as soon as possible.
  • Practice in other locations, not just your hallway.
  • Practice with many different objects, including food puzzles that still have treats inside, raw meaty bones (if you feed them), and frozen meat. Work your way up to a hot dog. Use reinforcers of equal or greater value than the item the dog is bringing. Do not punish your dog if he happens to eat any of these food items or chews on your stuff. Just change what YOU do and work up to it more slowly: for example, put the food in a container that the dog cannot access and have her bring that.

Note: In terms of over-excitement, searching for a toy is a much better way to exercise your dog than tossing the toy over and over. They evolved to search for a long period of time, but how often do you think they were supposed to sprint and catch prey, like rabbits?

Drop It can also be taught using a classical association, pairing the word “Drop” with treats, so that your dog can’t help but drop whatever he has to make room for your goodies. Here’s a video of Chirag Patel teaching Drop that way:

Every dog is different, so it’s good to know at least two ways to teach Drop. This is also covered in the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual.

Food Bowl. I like to teach puppies that when they see human feet approaching while they are eating from a food bowl or puzzle, they should look up because good stuff is probably coming. Just as with the rest of this course, I prefer to empower the dog: give your dog a behavior that has an effect on her environment rather than just dropping food into her bowl.

While it’s useful to drop high value treats into a dog’s bowl while she’s eating, it’s even more powerful to give her a chance to feel like she has some control over the appearance of those treats.

For the trainers among us, doing this in an operant way allows us to have a variable rate of reinforcement and persistent behavior. Classical counterconditioning then comes along for the ride.

  • Start out with an empty bowl. Show it to your puppy. When she sniffs, she will look up after realizing it’s empty. Mark and reinforce by feeding in the bowl. I use a clicker as the marker, but it’s sometimes in the way, so you might want to use a word, like Yes. If you do use a clicker, be sure to click away from the dog, not right in her face.
  • Gradually change what the puppy has to look away from to make it more realistic. Never make it harder than she can do. Set her up to be successful all the way, for error-free learning. Your puppy may need more steps than what I have given below or you may be able to skip some steps. Watch her carefully to learn how much you can change the situation at each step. If you change one thing to make something harder for her, then either change nothing else, or change something to make it easier for her to handle the first change successfully. If you see any freezing (even a tiny freeze) you have pushed too quickly.
  • Start to lower the bowl to the floor (repeat until the bowl is all the way at the floor).
  • Have a couple of pieces of kibble (dog food) in the bowl, so she may be eating longer before she looks up. Mark and reinforce by feeding her a treat, then lift up the bowl to above her head and put another couple of pieces in the bowl. We feed to the mouth so that human hands near the food are a good thing. Make it easier by starting higher up, gradually having the bowl lower and lower and eventually on the floor. If you feed raw, use some kibble for this anyway, so the food is relatively easy to look away from. If you have to bend over to get the bowl, it may help to squat down so that your chest is vertical, rather than bending at the waist.
  • Repeat the exercise above with gradually more dog food in it, starting again with it up higher and working toward the ground. Ideally, she should be able to look away from a bowl that still has food in it.
  • Repeat the exercise above with better and better food in the bowl, until she is looking away from very tasty food and getting even better food from your fingers. Make sure your treats are very high value to the dog, like canned food or cooked meat.
  • Start at the top of the list again with one piece of kibble in a bowl on the floor. Now we will make it harder by adding movement of feet toward her bowl. Step back and then approach. As you approach, she will have finished the food and will be looking up. Mark the looking up and reinforce with a good treat to her mouth and drop a kibble in the bowl. Repeat, gradually working up to dropping really great food in the bowl, delivering even better food directly to her mouth.
  • Repeat the previous exercise but pick up her bowl to put the food into it, still feeding her the first fabulous treat directly.
  • Repeat the previous exercise but add more food so that you can walk farther away before returning.
  • If you have a helper, have him/her set down the food and then you can approach after the dog has eaten some of the food. Mark and reinforce her for looking up.

Only work on the exercises above for a few minutes at a time. She should be able to eat her food in peace most of the time. 🙂 Take your time to work through the list.

Keep this behavior strong throughout her life. Occasionally (like once a month when she is young and once every several months when she is over 3 years old) walk near her while she is eating or chewing on a bone and then mark and reinforce looking up by feeding her a really fabulous treat. Then walk away.

Here’s an example of some of the steps above with a puppy at a shelter. She was going to be put to sleep for resource guarding and the staff of course did not want to do that. I was able to volunteer some time to help her with this issue. The training helped the staff see progress so that she was able to be put up for adoption.

She found a new home shortly thereafter. I made this (very long) video to share with family and they continued the training. You don’t have to watch the whole thing. 🙂 Note that I did not follow the steps above as carefully as I could have, so keep that in mind as you watch. There are some times during this that she stiffens and that means I went too quickly for her.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135899579″]

Tip: If you have a Building Blocks membership, check out the video on Resource Guarding. Look for “Possession Aggression: How to Encourage Sharing with People.” Also look for the video on the Recall, called “Come Back! Teaching a Reliable Recall.”

Recall. We have already covered Touch (nose to hand targeting). The Touch cue is a great way to call your puppy. She can’t touch your hand without coming to you, so it’s automatically a recall. You can make this more official by adding a cue for the recall first, and then saying Touch to sort of translate what you mean and motivate the puppy to come your way. So you’d do this:

  1. Say your puppy’s name to get her attention
  2. If she didn’t give you attention, do something to get it, like go closer and make a kissing sound
  3. Once you have your puppy’s attention, say your cue, like “Here” in an inviting way
  4. Say Touch
  5. Hold out your target hand
  6. Click/treat for Touch

Another type of recall is the emergency recall. I use the cue Treat Party for this. I use the goofy cue of Treat Party because I want you to keep the parties coming, so that that cue stays strong, even if all else fails.

At least three times a day, take a full 30 seconds to reward your puppy for coming to you. Start in a quiet place where you have no treats on you, but they are available (in a cupboard, etc.). Out of the blue, say “Treat Party” and then run to the cupboard, and start the party. Some of the time the treats can be on you, but make sure that treats aren’t always present before the party begins. You can also use toys or chase games as part of your party, but aim for 30 seconds of fun. You should be a bit out of breath by the end!

Continue rehearsing treat party at least a few times a day for a long time, at least a few months and then from time to time throughout your dog’s life. As you feed or play with toys, say the cue/phrase over and over, like Treat Party, the whole time I’m tossing out treats on the floor. Be sure to cue Treat Party before she knows that you have treats, so the phrase predicts the party. Otherwise, the treats become the cue, not the Treat Party phrase that you are trying to teach.

Say the Treat Party cue only when your dog is definitely coming to you, and then repeat the cue during before each treat during the feeding (or playing) process. You can also say your regular recall cue, Here, first, and then when she is on her way, call out Treat Party and celebrate when she gets there. This helps strengthen your Here cue.

Make sure you also can remember to say the emergency cue in a real emergency. Practice in many different locations, but be sure it’s the right level of distraction. Set it up so that your dog will definitely come to you when you say Treat Party.

This socialization clip shows a Treat Party near the end:

Also check out the blog article on coming when called.

[/s2If]

Lesson 23: (Problem Solving) Problem Sources, Skills, Philosophy

Between now and the end of the course we will focus on Problem Solving Skills

  • Reminder of where dog problems come from
  • Which skills help with which problems
  • Another dose of philosophy
  • Training: Bring/drop
  • Training: Food bowl
  • Training: Recall

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

This lesson wraps up this course by taking another look at problems and how we can prevent them. This course will get you started on the training, but of course you will need to continue putting time into training for at least the next year and use natural consequences and some treats to reinforce the training throughout your dog’s life.

REMINDER OF WHERE PROBLEMS COME FROM

In Lesson 3, I went over some of the various behaviors that dogs use to meet their needs, and how that can lead to problems. What we consider to be a problem is not a problem for the dog—as far as she’s concerned, it’s the best way she knows to get what she needs. Jumping up gets attention. Growling makes the scary thing go away. Running gets her where she wants to go more quickly, even though sometimes she has to drag her human down the sidewalk.

So with that in mind, I recommend teaching the dog specific ways to meet her needs that are acceptable to your family and society as a whole. Here’s what I wrote about that before:

Teach appropriate behavior by blocking the reinforcement for behavior you don’t want and reinforce behavior you do want with the consequences the dog is looking for, not just random reinforcers.

WHICH SKILLS HELP WITH WHICH PROBLEMS

So now that you know that you have to teach something, what should you teach? Teach a behavior that is as natural as possible that is incompatible with the behavior you don’t like (meaning your dog can’t do both at the same time). Pick something that other dogs already do on their own to get the same need met. So while you could theoretically teach your dog to bring you a written sign that says “let me out” when she wants to go outside, it makes a lot more sense to reinforce something like going to the door and doing some attention-getting behavior like barking or the fancier version, ringing a bell.

Here is a set of skills that can be really useful for preventing or eliminating many behaviors that humans consider to be problems:

PROBLEM  SKILL/EXERCISE 
Teeth on people Get Your Toy, Take treats gently
Chewing Get Your Toy
Pulling on leash Autowatch, Silky Leash, Touch, handler skills
Running Away Autowatch, Stay, Touch, Emergency Recall, Bring it
Attention Barking/whining/biting You get what you pay for (only reinforce behavior that you like)
Not sleeping at night Crate training (place near or on bed), relaxation (and bring young puppies in the bed)
Resource guarding (people) Bring/drop It, Looking Up on human approach while eating/chewing
Housesoiling Mark for eliminating outside, crate training
Grooming trouble / harness trouble Touch, empowered counterconditioning (More Please Signal), Head through, Paw Shake
Antisocial with dogs/people, afraid of new objects Play skills, Active coping (use BAT), and all of the other things we talked about above. 🙂

ANOTHER DOSE OF PHILOSOPHY

Let’s circle back to the philosophy of empowerment that we’ve applied throughout this course. Whenever possible, the animal should have the opportunity to meet her own needs and see that her behavior has an effect. This is an essential aspect of humane care. By managing the environment so that the puppy will naturally try out behavior that we like or can at least tolerate, the puppy is empowered. When necessary, use positive reinforcement to train behavior that helps us promote safety and reduce stress for our puppies during vet care, grooming, and everyday life with humans. Using a trained More Please Signal and watching for other signs of communication empowers the dog and strengthens the relationship.

[/s2If]

Lesson 22: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

  • Do one of the exercises in this section for getting your dog used to a surface or for proprioception, including letting him explore it on his own without treats, if he’s ready for that. Film it and play it back for yourself. Are any issues that you may need to pay more attention to?
  • Vacuum or broom – using parallel play, relaxation training, or a More Please Signal, practice getting your dog used to one or both of these cleaning tools. Film it and look back over it later. Where should you take it from here? Was your session too long? Too fast? Just right?
  • Practice the training exercises for Stop/Stay/Wait and Head Through.
  • Generalize your other training from before
  • Continue socialization with other puppies, dogs, and people
  • Pat yourself on the back for sticking with all of this work!

[/s2If]

Lesson 21: Training Stop/Stay/Wait and Targeting Head Into Objects

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

TRAINING

  • Stay/Stop/Wait
  • Targeting head into objects

Wait is a good behavior to have for safety. For example, it’s helpful to have your dog wait for you to make sure movement is safe before allowing it: before blind corners, at doorways, in the elevator, before eating, before getting out of the crate in the car or your home, and before being lifted out of the car (or jumping when they are older).

For puppies, I prefer Wait (don’t go forward, hang out here) to a full obedience-type Stay (stay in this exact position). Even for adult dogs, most dogs just need the ability to stop and not go forward past some imaginary line, rather than the obedience Stay. As my dog gets older, I’m so happy that I never made him sit at curbs. Peanut always was taught to do a wait, with him still standing. This is much easier on his old joints, so we have been able to be consistent throughout his life.

Stop and Wait:

  1. Walk along slowly with your puppy
  2. Say, “Wait”
  3. Stop your movement, which most puppies will copy
  4. Click when the dog stops
  5. Feed a treat or more than one
  6. Give your release cue, like Free — which says the puppy can move again
  7. Move away with the puppy
  8. Over time, you will click only if the puppy stops faster than average, getting a faster and faster stop

For activities that the puppy clearly wants to do:

  1. Say, “Wait”
  2. Prevent access to the activity – For example, keep the door shut, the food puzzle in your hand, the gate closed, your body in front of the elevator door (fade this), slow stop at the curb (and relax the leash)
  3. Puppy waits briefly
  4. Praise calmly and pause
  5. Treat is optional
  6. Give your release cue, like Free
  7. Release him to do the activity he was waiting for (getting his food puzzle, going around a corner, walking across the street

Gradually extend time between the Wait cue and the release cue, also add in motion, so that you can still move and your puppy will Wait.

Note: Stay and Wait are also covered in the Ahimsa Dog Training manual.

Head through!
Use the instructions from the last lesson for teaching your dog to put his head through a harness to teach the dog to put his nose or head into other objects, like a cup, a muzzle, and a post-surgery collar, like the standard cone or the newer soft cones or inflatable collars.

inflatable-cone comfy-cone
Why? It’s good experience teaching your puppy something new, not using treats all the way through, and it will probably be useful. At some point in your dog’s life, he may have surgery or need a muzzle, due to an injury or reactivity. used to a muzzle and surgery collar now will reduce his stress later.

baskervilleUse a muzzle that he can easily eat treats through, pant, and lick through, like the Baskerville Ultra, which is pictured here. Never ever leave a muzzle on an unattended dog.

When you train these behaviors, rather than being super excited and upbeat, stay calm and relaxed. Feed treats calmly and praise in a soothing voice. If your puppy calms with massage, use that as part of the reinforcement. Practice at a time when your puppy is mellow. If you can, turn the surgery collar and/or muzzle into snuggle equipment – when they are on, your dog knows he will get a relaxing massage from you. During training, the targeting is the More Please Signal. That is, keeping his nose at the end of the muzzle or his neck through the cone is the More Please Signal for treats and petting. Gradually mess with the straps so that’s just part of the game.

When get to the stage of clipping it on, have him find treats or give him a food puzzle to work on. Be sure he can actually lick the food out while wearing the muzzle or cone. Take it off before he is stressed. At this point, our puppy can’t just stop doing the More Please Signal, so watch for signs that he’s done (backing away, tongue flick, pawing at the muzzle, etc.). Try to take it off BEFORE he gives one of those signs, but if he does do that, just get his attention and then take off the muzzle, collar, etc. Slowly work back up to clipping it on.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135899304″]

Tip: you can turn the muzzle into a muzzle-cicle. Wrap it the muzzle part in plastic wrap so that it is sort of a waterproof bowl. Put wet dog food inside along the walls of the muzzle. Freeze. Hold the muzzle so that your dog can put his nose in and eat. If your dog is at the stage where you can attach the muzzle as a collar as well, you can do that, just make sure the frozen part doesn’t touch his nose. We want to make sure he can breathe and he doesn’t get frostbite!

[/s2If]

Lesson 20: (Environment) Proprioception

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

PROPRIOCEPTION (“Oh wow, I have back legs!”)

Confidence in their physical bodies can be helpful for reducing stress. It’s also great for preventing injuries in “regular” dogs and canine athletes. Have your puppy practice calmly walking under, over, around, and through different objects. Practice not just going through life at a run, but also just meandering slowly for some of the time on your walks as you practice the BAT leash skills with your puppy in his harness. You can say “Easy” as a heads-up that you are going to do a slow walk. If your puppy starts to run, use Slide and then do a Slow Stop, if needed. When the puppy has fully stopped, relax the leash and calmly suggest a new direction. Take time to let your puppy notice where and on what surface he is walking.

Here are some examples of some activities that you can set up. Obviously watch for safety and do not do the activity if it is not physically or emotionally safe for your puppy (and you). Sometimes you will need to do some treating to get the process to happen, or for safety, as in the video below, but whenever possible, get the dog in exploration mode instead of working mode. Some of the items on this list involve intense training. Remember that your primary focus at this time is still socialization and getting the puppy used to grooming and vet care, so don’t get sucked into doing tricks just yet. But I include them as possibilities to work on once your other tasks have been accomplished.

  • Walk through the forest over sticks and small logs.
  • Walk through a tent made of chairs and a blanket
  • Walk through the forest under and along trees that have partially fallen over (only if safe!)
  • Go up and down stairs, helping your puppy do them slowly. The scariest kind of stairs are the ones where there is a gap behind them or in the step itself, so the puppy can see down.
  • Go up and down elevators.
  • Get your puppy to step inside of a box or other container – something that involves lifting his legs over the sides of the container to get inside. You can lure, use shaping, or make it a puzzle, if you have a large enough container. A puzzle example would be to make a small corral using agility jumps placed in a square or pentagon with the bars lowered, so the dog has to step over the bars and into the corral to get to you or a toy. The same can be done with pieces of lumber or if you have a taller puppy, a kiddy pool works well.
  • Use targeting or a treat lure to stop your puppy at the edge of a sidewalk with some legs on the street and some off.
  • Slowly walk over short agility jumps or in and out of weave poles.
  • Teach your puppy to swim. If he’s toy motivated and will go into the water after a toy, put it at the edge of the water and gradually have it further and further out, until he has to swim to get it. If not, go swimming with your puppy: start out by walking along the shore with your feet in the water. Have your puppy off leash if it is safe or use a leash that is long enough that he can reach the shore, so that he can choose to stay out of the water if he wants to. If your puppy comes in, calmly praise him and immediately walk back to solid ground again. Keep walking and then repeat, going back into the water. Gradually go in deeper to get your puppy to swim in after you.
  • Teach targeting with individual legs to stand on something. FitPawz makes products for sale just for this use.
  • Balance weight with front paws/rear paws/all four paws/one paw on something that isn’t solid, like a small pile of yoga mats, a pillow, or a pilates disk.
  • Introduce your puppy slowly to a wobble board (basically a solid flat surface with something underneath it to make it unstable, like a tennis ball in a sock stapled to the bottom). Keep it from wobbling too much at first by using your foot or putting books underneath, gradually letting it wobble more.
  • Use shaping to teach targeting of other body parts to a target (not just paws, like the hips and shoulders).
  • Use shaping or hind-end targeting to teach your puppy to walk backwards.
  • Use shaping to teach your puppy to rotate in a circle with the front paws stationary and rear moving, or vice versa. For example, the first type of rotation can be taught by having the dog target the front paws onto something, like a foam disk. Cue hip targeting, moving your target around the disk a little at a time.
  • Use targeting to teach your puppy to walk on a treadmill. One way is to begin is to first teach your dog to maintain a chest target to your hand or a soft object mounted to the machine. Targeting is the More Please Signal – as long as the dog is targeting, you keep treating from time to time, and the treadmill game continues.Gradually add movement of the treadmill. Never tie your puppy or dog to a treadmill and carefully supervise the entire time your dog is on it. Their toes could possibly get caught if they go too far back, forward, or to the sides. Feed from the front (you can attach a bowl or pan for the treats to go) so that your dog has good posture and doesn’t curve around while walking. If your dog stops targeting at any time during his time on the treadmill, turn it off. Turn it back on again when he targets again.

Here’s a great video by Jolein van Weperen:

TIP: Social facilitation: if your puppy is nervous about doing something, bring some friends along! If he sees his friends enjoying the area or activity, that will help him build up his nerve to try it out. Just make sure his friends don’t tackle him while he’s having a new experience. Consensual play is fine, i.e., both puppies enjoying the play. Calmly intervene if it looks like any of his friends are being rougher than he can handle. While that’s true all the time, be especially ready to rescue him when he’s already feeling a bit unsure about a surface or could potentially slip off of it (like a ramp).

[/s2If]

Lesson 19: (Environment) Sounds, Moving Objects, Parallel Play

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

SOUNDS

airplaneAt La Guardia airport in New York, I can hear a man drumming on his table in some rhythm that has nothing to do with the loud music on the speakers of the restaurant. A cash register just printed out a receipt with a noisy inkjet printer. A woman scoots her chair and the screeching sound carries across the room. A man laughs. The fan above the stove blows loudly while food crackles on the grill.

High heels clink past me on the tile as a woman runs to her flight. A suitcase being pulled by, sounding just like a skateboard. Ice clinks into a glass just before it crashes to the floor, sending pieces skittering across the floor. A luggage cart drives by and honks three times in a row to get people to move. Loud sports coverage switches to the crowd cheering on the television on the wall above my head, with scenes changing every 3 seconds. A television on the same channel is across the room, creating a strange echo effect. A child drops his fork and starts to cry. There are so many conversations that I can’t pay attention to any individual voices.

You may never take your dog into a busy airport, but everywhere we go, there are sounds. If you live in the city and your puppy is used to the (relatively) quiet countryside, it’s a big change to enter your realm of constant noise. Also note that your dog’s experience of this same situation may be different. The sound is louder or quieter at his height, depending on the source. Cars, for example, are much louder for dogs.

There are lots of sounds that you might expect your puppy to have issues with, but your puppy can also hear at a higher frequency than you can. So if your puppy suddenly “sees ghosts,” his fear may be due to a sound that is just not in a frequency that you can hear. If my dog, Peanut, were in the airport with me right now, he might hear the sound of my computer whirring, along with the sound of hundreds of other electronic devices, including the iPad at every seat. He’d feel the bass of the music vibrating his whiskers.

Your dog also has a different flicker fusion rate, by the way. So where we see a steady stream of light from a fluorescent lamp, he may see a lot of flickering. It’s kind of like trying to see clearly with strobe lights in a nightclub.

squirrelIn the forest, too, he’d be detecting tiny sounds that I cannot hear at all. These differences help them out when it comes to hunting little animals. But it’s kind of impressive that dogs can function at all in the human-made part of the world.

I mentioned before that controllability is huge for building confidence. So teach your puppy to make these noises himself, as well. Get him to knock a milk carton around with rocks and treats inside – put the rocks in through the top, then close the lid. Put holes in the container that are too small for the rocks but small enough to let the treats out. If your puppy is sensitive to sounds, start with only treats inside and build up to adding rocks, bells, etc. As you add noisier items, make the treats more delicious.

Use a recording of various noises as a marker, so you’d play the noise briefly as a “click” and then feed the dog. Turn it off just before he’s finished getting treats. Play the recording at a low enough volume that the dog is not at all scared, but he can still hear it. Jo Laurens, CBATI followed my recommendation and submitted the video below as homework when she took this course with her puppy. Note that even though the sound seems louder to us at first and then quieter, it is actually the other way around for the dog. The speaker was first turned toward the camera (away from the dog, so quieter for the dog, but louder for us) and then toward the dog (away from the camera – quieter for us).

Sounds can also be introduced at low volume just before activities that your puppy enjoys. That way, he has a little time to process the sound, and then he gets, say, a food puzzle. The sound led to something good and he also continues to hear it as the puzzle goes on. So he is getting used to it as background noise. You can gradually turn up the volume over time if he is completely comfortable. If you are seeing any ear twitching or looking in the direction of the sound, it is too loud.

Introduce sounds multiple times, in a variety of places. This is especially true for the sounds that dogs are generally more afraid of, like thunder. Let your puppy experience each sound at least once without a lot of other sounds, to be sure he heard it and will remember. Also make sure your dog is totally safe when new sounds are introduced. So never play new sounds during puppy play time or nail trimming, for example. If the puppy is frightened or hurt just at the wrong moment, he may associate that with the sound.

The good thing is that your puppy needs three meals a day, so you can play a sound before each one. In case you didn’t notice this before, his meals should come from a puzzle most of the time, not a bowl. Have some sounds recorded on your phone or computer and play them before the meal.

MOVING OBJECTS

In the airport scene described above, Peanut would also be noticing a lot more movement than I would. While the human eye is better at seeing details, dogs are far better at detecting motion. So every person walking or running by, the man jiggling his legs, the woman nervously tapping her thigh, the man putting away his laptop beside me… Peanut would see all of that, and more.

Some dogs are afraid of movement and many dogs chase anything that moves, either to herd or to catch. All of these responses can be a problem. You can teach your dog to look at you whenever he sees something exciting by constantly doing the autowatch activity that I described in the first lesson. That works fine, as a strategy for coping, but your dog then never really has a chance to see what’s going on, because he’s always looking at you.

In this video, Bean is learning about the lawn mower by having a chance to check it out.

So while I do like to teach the dog to check in a lot, my preference is to not take it to extremes. I would rather work on relaxation around moving objects. Like the autowatch, relaxation is incompatible with chasing and fear, since the dog can’t relax his muscles and chase something at the same time. But relaxation gives dogs a chance to process more information and notice that a) there is nothing to fear and b) the moving object leaves eventually anyway. We talked about teaching relaxation through association near the beginning of the course. Say Relax just before doing something relaxing with the puppy or before you see the puppy about to settle.

A way that’s a bit more practical around moving objects is to manufacture relaxation by catching small bits of it. Mark with a calm marker word and feed calmly or use massage if it doesn’t excite your puppy. When that works well, you can start to do the same activity at a good distance away from something that’s moving, like cars, other dogs, etc.

 

PARALLEL PLAY

Parallel play is a term generally used with children, meaning they are doing activities at the same time, nearby but not really doing it together. Each child is doing her own thing, but is still being somewhat social because it’s done near another child. When I use the term with respect to dogs, I basically mean the same thing – while your dog is getting used to another person or dog, occasionally checking in, each of them are doing their own thing, like sniffing for treats or working through food puzzles.

This is similar to what I discussed above in terms of surfaces – while the puppy is sniffing for treats, he’s also walking on a new surface, getting used to both at the same time. In both cases, there may be a pleasant association made, but it’s also not quite the same as really interacting with the other puppy or really noticing the surface. So while I do recommend doing parallel play activities for socialization or using treats in various ways for surfaces, I also make sure that we provide a chance for interaction without the distractions, as well.

Parallel play is an excellent thing to use to get your puppy used to motions, like the vacuum cleaner. You can feed your puppy a food puzzle while you vacuum. If your puppy becomes interested in the vacuum cleaner, just make it “boring” and wait for him to inspect it and go back to his puzzle.

As another example, when your puppy is outside and the neighbors are also out with their children or other dogs, you can scatter treats in your backyard or give your puppy a Kong. That gives him a chance to get used to the various sounds and motions. He may look up for a bit, and then go back to his task.

[/s2If]

Lesson 18: (Environment) Surfaces

Between now and the next Pause to Practice, we will be discussing ways to help your puppy be confident in his surroundings.

The Environment:

  • Surfaces
  • Sounds
  • Moving objects
  • Balance & proprioception
  • Parallel play
  • Training: Stay / stop
  • Training: Targeting head into objects (For example, Elizabethan collar or cone, muzzle, cereal box)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

So far, we have worked on socialization with live animals, including humans and all of the various things we do to dogs, like vet care. Help your puppy become confident about what comes into his senses from the rest of the world around him, as well. That includes the physical sensation of what his paw pads and body touch, the sensation of balance being off and regained, the sounds that come into his ears, the feeling of deep bass, seeing fast moving objects, and the look of visual surfaces, like shiny floors.

SURFACES

With our feet safely wrapped in shoes and socks, we humans may not notice that there are many different surfaces on our daily walks. For our dogs, each surface is a different sensation. We all probably know this, in theory, but if you are brave enough to go out on a walk barefoot or happen to have a pair of barefoot shoes, do so, and pay attention to your body as you walk around. When I first started wearing the barefoot shoes, I was awestruck at how every surface has a unique sensation. Tile, carpet, round gravel, sharp gravel, grass, dirt…each surface feels different. And yet people so often drag their dogs along, expecting a constant heel over all of these different surfaces.

When a dog has not experienced a variety of surfaces as a puppy, encountering a new surface can make them anxious. Let’s take a look at some of the different surfaces that your puppy should have a chance to walk on. There may be even more in your region that I haven’t thought of – if so, please share that in the discussion.

  • Tile
  • wood (polished floors, rough outdoor decks, wood chips, or walking on downed trees)
  • agility obstacles (rubberized or sand in paint)
  • carpet/rug (thin, thick, rag, sisal)
  • round gravel
  • sharp gravel
  • grass (short & tall)
  • fake grass
  • plants (for example, dandelions)
  • pavement
  • cobblestones
  • large paving stones
  • brick
  • dirt
  • mud
  • mud puddle
  • elevator entrance
  • uneven surface or mixed medium (dirt and stones, objects on floor)
  • cardboard
  • bubble wrap
  • paper
  • metal street grates and manhole covers? (see below)
  • metal (flat, bumpy, or patterns of holes)
  • surfaces with holes in them where the dog can see down below (like a wooden deck or stairs with gaps between boards)
  • rubber matting
  • Welcome mat (woven or prickly for wiping feet)
  • towel
  • Higher surfaces, like a table that puppy is lifted onto
  • Surfaces that move or require a balance change will be covered under proprioception (stairs, ramps, elevators, wobble boards, ice, water, etc.)

The good news is that you don’t have to get your dog used to every single surface that he will ever feel. But he should have a wide variety of surfaces so that he can start to be comfortable with the concept that a change of surface is not a bad thing. And you should be aware that a surface change may cause your dog to become less confident or suddenly lose focus on you. This can happen in puppyhood but may happen at any point during your dog’s life.

There are many ways to get your puppy comfortable with a surface. I want to make sure to do the options at the top of the list at some point, because there is less of a distraction and the puppy can get more information about the surface. That makes it easier to extend to another situation later. The other reason I want you to do the items at the top of the list is that sometimes using treats can mask the fear. A puppy may go onto a surface to get a treat, but completely avoid it otherwise. In that case, we have not properly desensitized the puppy to that surface.

Please don’t think that I’m saying we should not use treats to help a puppy make a good association with that surface. You can always use treats at first if you want, but make sure to go up the list as well.

Your puppy will sometimes show cautious body language and need a bit of help. In that case, go as far down the list as you need for your puppy to be confident, being sure to also work your way back up the list at some point. When in doubt, assume your puppy needs help.

Have your puppy off leash or on a long line using your BAT leash skills. If your puppy needs to stop to process information, be sure to allow him to do so. There will be many opportunities to get your puppy used to new surfaces on your regular walk.

  • (BE SURE TO DO THIS AT SOME POINT) Let your puppy explore the surface on his own. Walk around with him if it’s large. Stay relaxed and calm. Praise calmly if he checks in with you, not so excitedly that he’s now only staring at you. Let him learn that it’s no big deal. Training is distracting so let him just do this on his own without constantly training.
  • Set out treats in the area and let him explore and find them. These are found objects, not a cued Find It. If you feel uncomfortable putting food on this surface, you can put the treats in food bowls or paper cups.
  • We have already worked on finding treats in different types of containers with a cued Find It. Do this on different surfaces.
  • Set out a food puzzle for him to find in the area. Let him finish his puzzle in peace.
  • Use touch to bring him closer to the area and farther away again. So he does touch close to the surface, then you move away and treat him. Repeat until he’s comfortably going onto the surface. Leslie McDevitt calls this “puppy ping pong.”
  • At some point, also cue Sit or Down or other position changes on the different surfaces. This helps generalize the training so your puppy knows that what these cue mean in all of those places. It also brings a different part of your dog’s body in contact with the surface.

Here’s a video from Emily Larlham on getting puppies used to surfaces and sounds:

[/s2If]

Lesson 17: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

  • Film as you practice one of the More Please Signal exercises for getting your dog used to a sound, grooming, etc. Take it slow! Look at your puppy’s body language. Is your puppy totally in the game or are you moving too quickly?
  • Practice and film the restraint exercise. Can you make it easier on your dog somehow?
  • Practice the training exercises in this section.
  • Continue socialization with other puppies, dogs, and people

[/s2If]

Lesson 16: (Cooperation) Training Head Through Harness, Restraint, Paw Targeting

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

TRAINING

  • Head Through Harness
  • Restraint
  • Paw Targeting / Shake

Head Through.

We covered the “Head Through Harness” skill in a previous lesson.  Be sure to practice that with your puppy. You can also start off with just teaching your puppy to target a collar so that there are fewer moving parts to bang into the puppy’s face.

Restraint.

Start on your knees or the balls of your feet, with your chest upright.

Lure the puppy in a U-shape so he is now facing away from you. Mark and treat. Do that several times until you can easily get the puppy in position.

Repeat that but ask for a sit at the end, either verbally or with a lure. Mark and reinforce for the sit.

Pet the puppy in this position for a very short period of time. If she remains seated, mark and reinforce. This Sit Stay is your More Please Signal for the restraint, so if she moves at any time, just wait or get up, move away, and crouch back down. When she approaches you again, lure her back into the Sit-Stay, facing away from you.

Repeat, gradually adding more time in the Sit-Stay before each treat.  Build up to about 10-15 seconds

Repeat. Starting to add some petting, touch to the neck, and eventually restraint with her head held away from the “vet tech” Reduce the time between treats whenever you add something new. [Note: to use empowerment to its fullest, teach a chin target to your hand, so that your puppy is SELF-restraining.]

Add the cotton ball press as your marker. Set a treat or toy away from her where she can see it, but can’t get to it, and then do a light restraint. Press the cotton ball for a few seconds. Say a release cue, like “Free” and help her go get the treat. Build up quickly to the 5-second cotton ball press and then be consistent with the timing after that.

Extend the duration of the restraint and practice in different areas. Visit the vet just to do training for things like this and getting a weight on the scale, etc.

Paw Targeting.

This is similar to shaking paws, but it’s not really what I’m looking for. Don’t grab your dog’s paw and shake it up and down like a human shaking hands in a Western country. What I want is for your dog to target your paw and for you to hold it steady, to prepare for nail trimming or for putting on a harness. If you want to add the handshake movement for your own entertainment, that’s up to you.

You might be able to use capturing to get this behavior. To do that, just hold a treat and wait for your puppy to paw your hand. Put your other hand out so that he will accidentally hit it on the way down, and that’s when you will mark and treat.

Try that first. If that works, awesome. If not, let’s teach it using shaping. Or if you just want to learn more about shaping, try this way.

Here’s a good way to teach your puppy to target, by Kim from the AdimusDogServices YouTube channel in the UK. It’s easier to use a different target that seems different than the one that you used for a nose touch. Use something sturdy, like a coaster or lid.

This target can then be extended to the shake. I really prefer this way over the old “grab the paw” way.

For the back paws, you can either do proper targeting, as above (which is harder) or do a Stay where you can say “hind paw” to let the dog know that’s what you’re touching next. Stay is the More Please Signal that says that the dog is still willing to put up with you touching his back paws in exchange for your treats. In other words, it’s ok to continue the “empowered counterconditioning.”

[/s2If]

Lesson 15: (Cooperation) Vet Care, Walks

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

VET CARE

The More Please Signal comes into play with vet care as well. So does voluntary restraint. In fact, the two go hand in hand.

The dog can go into a restraint position as her MPS. It should also be on cue so that you can ask for the behavior at the vets.

For example, when we need a blood sample from Peanut’s jugular vein, I take a toy from my pocket and say Leave It as I set it down. I give him the cue for the restraint pose and he moves to where I can hold his chest with one hand and hold his head back turned away from the vet tech. she can take the blood from his neck safely. As she takes the needle out, I put my thumb on the cotton she has placed there. I hold it for a few seconds to keep him from bleeding and then release him to grab his toy.

During each vet visit, I keep this behavior strong by doing several fake blood draws, both before and after the real one. We built up to this by doing pretty much the same thing as what I explained above with grooming. The only difference is that the injection itself can’t be the marker, because he has to move to get his toy, and I can’t have him charging after his toy when he has a needle in his neck.

First I taught the ‘self restraint pose’ and built up to ‘press the cotton ball for 5 seconds’ before releasing him. Then started having a friend give him fake injections with a syringe that had no needle. I used the cotton ball press as a marker, because the release to get the toy always happened 5 seconds after that. It was a predictable signal that the reinforcer was coming.

In other words, after each item on the list below, your friend will put a cotton ball on his neck (next to your fingers) and then you will press the cotton for 5 seconds and release your dog to get the toy or treat. I recommend asking your vet or vet tech to show you exactly where they would need to take blood or do injections. Do the same exercise for other places that blood is taken or injections are given.

  • Syringe comes out from behind your back, not approaching the dog (allow dog to sniff the nail file at any point that she wants)
  • Syringe moves slightly closer to the dog (however many steps you need)
  • Syringe touches the dog
  • Syringe touches the dog and helper lightly pinches the skin
  • Syringe touches the dog and helper lightly pinches the skin and pokes the syringe around as if looking for a vein (remember, no needle)
  • Syringe touches the dog and helper lightly pinches the skin and holds the syringe in place, drawing the stopper out

Note: my friend didn’t wear scrubs or a vet coat, but that would have been helpful.

You saw the video before of Peanut doing a blood draw. Here’s some training work that we did after (and before) the blood draw to keep his behavior strong.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135269416″]

Other tips: Exhale and relax. Your puppy is getting from information from you as to whether he should be nervous. Stay relaxed and avoid patting him repeatedly. Do some easy training in the waiting room, like Touch, Find It, or other tricks. Generalize to other people doing the restraint if possible, especially if you travel a lot without your dog.

If you have trained your dog to be comfortable with blood draws and restraints in this way, do your best not to let her be taken into the back for a blood draw. She really probably is more comfortable with you if you have trained her.

GOING FOR A WALK

Your dog will fuss less about getting a harness on if it’s done when she is ready for it. Teach her to put her head through the harness instead of just looping it over her head without her permission. If she needs to lift her feet, teach her. If you have a step-in harness, teach her to step into it, rather than always grabbing her paws to put her into the harness. It’s a targeting exercise.

Training can take several days or more, so in the meantime, you can use treats or targeting to lure her head through the harness, then have someone keep feeding her or set several on the floor so you can clip the harness on before she wiggles away. This is a temporary measure, at best, so teach her to cooperate in getting the harness on. If your puppy is having trouble, you can also use collar for a week or so while you train your puppy to enjoy his harness.

Here’s a video by Emily Larlham on teaching a puppy to be comfortable with the harness. I might make one change by having the movement toward the harness be even more of the dog’s idea, but Emily’s technique is good.

You can also use the More Please Signal with the harness. The nose through the harness is the MPS, the behavior that says “do it again.”

First: teach her that the clip sound on the harness means treats are coming, so that when you get to the final stage of putting the harness on and clipping it, that’s an automatic “YAY” moment for the dog. Doing this first also creates a positive association with the sight of the harness.

Teach head through: use a verbal marker to mark and reinforce targeting the harness, then getting the nose through the harness using Touch, and build up to just holding the harness out and getting the puppy to put her head through. Move it around so she has to work to get to where the harness is and put her head through.

Now that you have that: as long as her head is through the harness, you can do the “classical conditioning” of associating something with treats. To make some good associations, treat after each of the steps below. Keep the harness held up so she can back out if she wants. If she backs away at any point, just stay where you are or move away and wait for your puppy to put her head back through the harness. If she’s backing out a lot, you are going to fast.

Here’s an example of some steps:

  • Touch her shoulder with the back of your hand (one treat for each shoulder)
  • Scratch her shoulder (one treat for each shoulder)
  • Scratch both shoulders for one treat
  • Touch her side with the back of your hand (one treat for each side)
  • Scratch her side (one treat for each side)
  • Scratch both sides for one treat
  • Scratch her belly from the side.
  • Ask for the Shake (paw) behavior, if that’s part of getting your harness on
  • Touch her with a strap of the harness (various places, one treat for each spot)
  • Lower the harness onto her shoulders (but keep ahold of it so she can back out)
  • Set the harness onto her shoulders, treat, and immediately remove it. Then move away so she has to get to you to put her head back through. Note: I always say “head down” just before I remove the harness, for predictability and stress reduction.
  • Set the harness on to her shoulders and mess with the straps, then treat and remove the harness. Move away, as above.
  • Make the leash clip noise while the harness is around her neck but not fully on her body
  • Put the harness on and clip it, then treat and immediately remove it. Move away as above.
  • Put the harness on and toss several treats for her to find.

When you take the harness off, start by petting her politely and then just work your way to the clips, rather than just lunging at her harness. Use the 5-second rule, even for this. Feel free to use treats to extend how long she wants to hang around you, though. 🙂 The same applies for putting the leash onto the harness.

You can also teach her that the sound of the leash clipping is like a clicker. Treat her whenever you make a leash clipping noise. Give it some extra power by repeating clip/treat/pause.

If the leash gets tangled around her feet, it usually means you accidentally let the line go below her knees, so she could step over it. It happens. Instead of grabbing at her feet to move them over the leash, get her to do it herself. For example, cue Shake, have her sit, lure her to step over the leash, etc.

[/s2If]

Lesson 14: (Cooperation) What Cooperation Looks Like, Grooming

Between now and the next Pause to Practice, we will be covering Cooperation in Care:

  • What cooperation looks like and how to get it
  • Grooming (nail file, brush)
  • Vet Care (syringe, inspection, wrap)
  • Going for a walk
  • Training: Head through harness
  • Training: Restraint
  • Training: Shake (paw)

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

WHAT COOPERATION LOOKS LIKE AND HOW TO GET IT: More Please Signals

Humans can get an impressive amount of control over dogs by using the various training techniques. Force free training can be applied to all sorts of problems, but it really excels when it comes to teaching the dog to DO something. We can teach them to do showy behaviors that impress our friends. These tricks give the dogs some mental stimulation. They also help us communicate to our dogs, at least in the sense that we can say a cue and they’ll do a behavior. We feel listened to. That’s fine if there is a lot of time in the day for all that training and the rest puppies need, but I’d say a better use of our time during puppyhood is to teach our dogs to cooperate in their own care.

If you have a Building Blocks membership, check out our video on the More Please Signal, called “Advanced Classical Conditioning with the More Please Signal.”

Here’s a video by UK trainer Chirag Patel. He trained his dog, Cody, help make the vet visits go smoothly, from blood draws to checking on his teeth. Notice that Chirag does not open Cody’s mouth using pressure. This is a targeting exercise, where Cody is actually targeting the fingers with the inside of his mouth.

Teaching a dog to actively participate in exercises that help him get used to grooming, vet care, and other daily activities creates a chance for satisfying and useful 2-way conversations. It’s what the best zoos do. My favorite trainers, including Ken Ramirez and Chirag, have been getting the word out to pet owners about how to bring this training into our homes. It fits in well with the empowered puppy raising philosophy and of course I always like to give things my own spin, too.

Here’s a video of Peanut getting a jugular blood draw. He actively says “let’s do this” by moving into the carwash position and targeting his chin to my hand.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135269415″]

Let’s say you want to get a dog used to a sound, like a shotgun. It’s helpful to just associate the sound with food by playing the sound and feeding. That’s a popular technique for “classical counterconditioning.” But it’s even more powerful to teach the dog to control the sound, because it gives you more specific information on how you are doing with keeping the dog relaxed during this process (for the trainers: I mean “below threshold”). And control itself is reinforcing, so that’s another positive thing to associate with the sound. This way is a more empowered version of counterconditioning.

We basically teach the dog a way to say “play that sound again.” Let’s call that a More Please Signal (MPS), the canine version of a keep going signal.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/126982974″]

Pick a behavior that will be your dog’s way to communicate with you, something you don’t mind them doing a lot. Next, get a recording of the sound. You will play it back at a low volume so that it does not scare your dog.

  1. Play the sound and then feed a treat (just a quick check that we are at a good volume, where the dog can hear it, but is not scared). Pause and just be boring for about 15 seconds in between. Repeat three times and observe body language. If the dog is scared at any point, reduce the volume by at least half.
  2. Use the sound as a marker for the behavior you picked as your MPS. Let’s say that behavior is Sit. Just wait with your treats in your hands and soon your puppy will sit. Play the sound as the marker, then praise and treat. If you do use sit, toss the treat so the puppy is up and ready for the next repetition. Repeat until the puppy is clearly asking for you to play the sound. If your puppy is already very clicker savvy, continue past that to at least about 10 times. Then move to a new place and repeat the activity with a slightly higher volume.

If at any point, the puppy wanders away or does not sit, then you may need to reassess. Possible causes:

  • The sound was too loud
  • Your puppy just isn’t familiar with Sit being a magical way to get humans to feed her (so be patient)
  • Your timing is too slow (she is not hearing the sound right when she sits or chooses to sit)
  • She doesn’t like your treats
  • You are scaring her with your body language or maybe are praising too loud
  • The sound is too quiet, so it’s not marking the behavior
  • Your body language is confusing (too active, making her think she is getting treats randomly)

With this way of doing things, versus simply playing the sound and giving her a treat, you get more information and I usually see puppies learn more quickly. I also see people paying more attention to whether they are desensitizing at the right level of exposure. People tend to try to rush things and end up playing the sound too loudly when the puppy doesn’t have a say in the process.

This way also teaches your puppy how to learn from you via marker training. If you are experienced with shaping, you can even double up by shaping a trick using this new marker signal.

Basically anything that we want to do to our dogs can be used as a marker if we think creatively. And while any behavior will do as a More Please Signal, it helps to pick an MPS that is also not obnoxious and is incompatible with behavior dogs normally use to get us to stop. So barking, biting, and avoiding are probably not good choices for More Please Signals.

GROOMING

Brushing.

Many puppies chew at the brush or bite the human. Targeting a yoghurt lid or a Post-It note is incompatible with that. Targeting the inside of a muzzle is another good More Please Signal for grooming and vet care. But unless you are really, really good at not messing up and pushing too hard, I recommend training the muzzle separately at first. I wouldn’t want to risk doing this wrong and having the muzzle associated with stress. I think all dogs should be taught to love a muzzle, so that if a muzzle is ever needed in an emergency, it doesn’t add extra stress to the situation.

But back to grooming…

Let’s say you have Target as your More Please Signal. Train your puppy to target up to the point of being able to hold her chin or nose to the target for several seconds.

The brushing is the marker, and just like the sound was above. Gradually turn up the intensity of on the brushing as your dog is successful at each step, just like we did with the volume of the sound.

Keep a relaxed and happy attitude throughout. Don’t be super excited or you may cause your puppy to want to bounce around.

I’ll break it into some steps below, but you may need to split things up even more. Your dog may be sensitive to the changes between the steps I’ve written or need more before to get set up. Work at each step 10 times and then pause to prepare yourself with what you will do at the next step. The only thing you will change is the intensity of the brushing during each session. I recommend being in a sort of grooming position before you get started, so you are sitting down at your dog’s level or you have trained him to be comfortable on a grooming table.

Note: If you are an advanced trainer and want to use this to shape a behavior at the same time, you could also for the dog to hold her nose to the target for longer and longer, for example. But then you have a little bit of confusion as to whether the dog doesn’t like the brushing or doesn’t understand the behavior. So I’d recommend sticking with just one set behavior unless you are very sure the dog is comfortable with each step.

  • Touch puppy with your hand (hold brush in the other hand behind your back – the touching hand is also your feeding hand, if you are alone, so you may need to let the puppy sniff your hand each time before touching)
  • Brush comes out from behind your back, not approaching the dog (allow dog to sniff the brush at any point that she wants)
  • Brush moves slightly closer to the dog (however many steps you need to get to the next step smoothly)
  • Brush touches the dog (different location each time) – bristles up
  • Brush touches the dog (different location each time) – bristles down
  • Brush slides along for 1 second (different location each time) – bristles up
  • Brush the dog for 1 second (different location each time) – bristles down
  • Brush the dog for 2 seconds (different location each time)
  • Brush the dog for 3 seconds (different location each time)
  • Brush the dog for 4 seconds (different location each time)
  • Brush the dog for 5 seconds (different location each time)

5 seconds is a lot of time for a puppy, so you may want to stick with 5 seconds as your upper limit for a while before you have to ‘feed the meter’ again. Your treats don’t have to just be food. If your puppy enjoys massage, that can also be the treat a good deal of the time.

Try to use calm reinforcers so that you get calm behavior during grooming and vet care. That said, with a dog who truly cannot stand what you need to do, then any reinforcer that she’ll work for is fine. For example, I have messed up nail trimming enough times that Peanut really doesn’t like it. He knows it’s a risky business. But he still happily cooperates with me, putting his paw out for filing, because I toss his toy to him when I have done each nail. We use the same for blood draws.

Do not try to do this all at once! Do about 5 minutes per session. In each session, you can work your way more quickly to the bottom of the list.

Standing on a rug or other object (this is a type of paw targeting) is another good More Please Signal for brushing. As long as your puppy is on the rug, she is willing to trade brushing for treats. If she leaves, pause the brushing. Use the same gradual approach as above.

This is a nice use of the More Please Signal! Nella was one of our Empowered Puppy Raising students. Her mum Katey Aldred made this little video to show Nella’s continued progress. You may need to click over to YouTube to watch it.

Video is great for showing us how we can improve even more. After seeing the bit of jumping at the click and the slightly tucked tail, Katey will begin using a release cue as the marker and also work on making it even more “worth it” to Nella.

Nail Filing.

I prefer filing to clipping because I’m less likely to get it wrong. I also think that clipping is sudden and probably feels like being bitten, whereas nail filing is more gradual.

Use nail files meant for artificial nails, as they have the best filing surface. I also use a Dremel tool, because it is a lot faster, but it is also easy to mess up and injure the dog or yourself.

The paw shake is a perfect More Please Signal for nail filing or clipping. You’ll need to get a paw shake with all four paws. Work up to being able to hold your dog’s paw with a grip on the toenail. Grip it tightly but keep it in the natural shape of the paw, rather than pulling the toe back. Holding the toenail firmly will dampen the vibration when you file or clip it.

The process for nail filing is essentially the same as for brushing, but most dogs dislike having their nails done, so be ready to need more steps here. Your MPS can be something like paw-to-hand targeting (front paw) or paw lift (back paw), which you first train with the clicker or marker word, using the steps in the training section below. During clipper training, when your puppy does the MPS, you’ll use the nail file as the marker. Gradually turn up the intensity of the filing using something like the list below. Always watch for signs of stress or hesitation, and make things easier if need be.

Reminder: Do not try to do this all at once! Do about 5 minutes per session. In each session, you can work your way more quickly to the bottom of the list.

  • File comes out from behind your back, not approaching the dog (allow dog to sniff the nail file at any point that she wants)
  • File moves slightly closer to the dog (however many steps you need)
  • File touches the toenail
  • File for ½ second (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 1 second (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 2 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 3 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 4 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)
  • File for 5 seconds (different toe each time, work your way around to all toes)

As with brushing, 5 seconds at a time may be the maximum for your puppy. If you choose to clip instead, then work your way up to the clipping in a gradual way as well. For example, you can trim a toothpick near the paw in order to copy the sound of the clippers.

As you can see, this concept can be extended to many things that we need to do to our dogs. For example, we can do the same with cleaning the ears. Targeting a Post-It could be the MPS for that as well, or targeting the cotton ball with the nose. If you have other kinds of grooming or things that must be done to your dog, use the More Please Signal to get cooperation there, too.

Food for thought: What could you use as a More Please Signal for the examination of a conformation dog?

[/s2If]

Lesson 12: Targeting and Crate Training

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

TRAINING RECOMMENDATIONS:

  • Targeting a Post-It or yoghurt lid
  • Crate

Why Teach Targeting?

Teaching your dog to touch a portable target is useful for many things. one thing, you can teach a dog to touch a target and then put that target into a crate. A target can be placed inside of a muzzle, box, bowl, tunnel, or anything else that you want to help the puppy learn to go into or onto. You can use it to teach your puppy to move away from you for dog sports or to encourage self-confidence.

You can use a target to exercise your puppy, indoors or out, by having him run to it and back to you. This is a great way to tire your dog out before a walk to reduce the chance of pulling on leash.

Targets can build confidence, too. A target can be placed gradually closer to an object that the dog is concerned about, giving him a specific task to do in that situation (but be careful not set something up that feels like a trap)!

Targeting can be used as a “keep going” signal from your dog to you for grooming or vet care. We will talk about that in Lesson 14. By targeting various objects to create sound or movement, your dog can become more comfortable with his environment. You can use targeting to teach other cues.

And finally, once you have two targets, like your hand and the portable target we are teaching this time, you can extend to many other kinds of targets more easily. I taught Peanut to find morel mushrooms and my keys by basically just teaching him to target them.

How to Teach Targeting

To teach the Target cue, simply hold out the target near your puppy and mark any interest in it whatsoever. Treat. I like to feed a bit away from the target so that I can mark again when the dog heads back toward it. Otherwise, hide the target while you are treating and then bring it back out when the puppy is ready. Repeat, gradually getting more and more picky about what you mark. Once it’s clearly not just random motions, start to mark if your puppy’s response is better than average.

So if you want your puppy to target a specific location on the target, for example, mark if it’s closer than average. Do this about 10 click/treats at a time and then reassess. Make sure the game is not too hard for your dog. He should be getting it right most of the time. Focus on one aspect of the behavior and don’t worry if you lose some sharpness in your other criteria. Possible things to work on:

  • Touching longer than average
  • Pushing harder than average
  • Taking more steps to get to the target
  • Jumping up to get the target

Once the behavior looks good, then start to cue Target before you present the Post-It note or other target. The verbal cue, the word “Target” becomes a way for your dog to know that this time it might get reinforced. Without that cue, you are no longer reinforcing.

About one time out of 5 that you show the target, hold it slightly out of her reach and don’t give the Target cue. If she doesn’t go after it, praise her and then lower the target and give the cue. Over time, have the target in a more and more obvious location for the times when you are not cueing it, so the only difference between the times when the target is “live” or not is that you have said the cue. This exercise helps her learn to pay attention to your words.

At some point, you will probably put out the target and your dog will probably still touch it. Ignore that and wait for a pause. Reinforce that pause by saying “Target” and then marking/treating.

If she ever doesn’t touch it when cued, just wait for a second and then remove the target. Try again. If she doesn’t touch it a few times in a row, go back to shaping her to touch it.

Why Should I Crate Train My Dog?

Dogs and puppies should all be taught to be comfortable in a crate or kennel. The crate is a great hang-out place for dogs that are stressed, it’s excellent for safely taking dogs in the car, and crate since they’ll probably end up being in a crate or kennel at the veterinarian’s office at some point or other, it’s helpful if they’re already used to the crate. If you compete in agility, having a crate-trained dog is a must!

Crates are also excellent for housetraining puppies. Dogs are much less likely to “go potty” in a small area like a crate, but you should not have a tiny crate that only lets him turn around. Puppies can’t stay in the kennel forever, but it’s a great accident-prevention tool. That said, you should try not to leave a puppy in a crate for very long, if it’s at all avoidable, and a bigger crate is better. The puppy should be able to stretch out fully and move around. That may require using an exercise pen instead of a crate or attaching two crates together. Consider using a bathroom or other space if you are leaving your puppy long enough that he will need to pee.

Here’s a video of me shaping my puppy to go into his crate:

What Kind of Crate is Right for My Puppy?

If your dog is not used to a kennel yet, you’ll need a sturdy crate, not the crates that are made of canvas and mesh. Those kind of portable dog crates are good to have, but just aren’t for newbies. The two main kinds of portable kennels are airline crates, like the “Vari-Kennel”, which are plastic and have a metal front. The other kind of crate is all metal and looks a little scarier, but aren’t any harder on the dog. There are also fancy crates to match your decor.

Pick a crate that your dog can stand up and turn around easily in. The crate need not be much bigger for the car, but should be bigger for your home, so your puppy can really stretch out and even walk around a bit. If you are looking for a crate, you can also post on Craigslist or put up a flyer at a dog school. Your crate should have a nice soft crate pad in it. Some dogs will chew up their crate pads, so you might just want to use a towel or blanket. If all else fails, leave out the padding.

If you are a member, look for the Building Blocks video called “How (and Why) to Crate Train Your Puppy.”

Crate Training Option 1: Shaping

So now that you have the crate, you have to convince your dog that it’s the best place on earth. You can do this with a combination of shaping — training by reinforcing approximations of the behavior you want and gradually getting more selective — and “luring” which uses a treat or target to encourage the behavior. Use the same marker word or clicker that you used for the autowatch and Target. Put a tasty treat in the crate. That is a the “lure” that brings the puppy into or near the crate. If your puppy goes into the crate, click as he heads in and toss another treat inside. As long as he stays inside of the crate, keep clicking and treating. If he leaves the crate or if he doesn’t go into the crate in the first place, follow the steps below. This is what I was doing in the video above.

  • Click for any attention toward the crate at all – even little eye motions. If your dog will go into the crate, put the treat in the crate and repeat the above steps. If not, just toss the treat a bit (not into the crate) to get the puppy moving.
  • Click several times for head turns toward the crate.
  • Click several times for moving a paw toward the crate.
  • Click several times for taking two steps toward the crate.
  • Continue raising your criteria (not paying for little steps, waiting for more).
  • Gradually start to extend the time between treats, so your puppy patiently stays in longer.
  • Briefly shut the door, click and treat through an opening in the crate. Then open the door and say “okay” to tell the puppy he can leave the crate. Encourage him out, but don’t feed him outside. If he goes back in, reinforce that!
  • Gradually extend the amount of time the puppy is in the crate with the door shut.

During this training, let the puppy out whenever he wants. The goal is to reinforce frequently enough that your puppy thinks “Why would I leave? This is the best deal on earth!”

You can wait to add the cue until your dog is totally trained, or you can add it just whenever the behavior is happening. So when she begins to enter the crate, start to say “Kennel” just before she goes in. Say this every time she’s headed in and she’ll be crate trained in no time.

Don’t do all of the crate training steps above at once. Train any activity, especially something that might be stressful, like crate training, for 2-5 minutes max at a time. Stop to play with the puppy in between sessions, or take a nap, or go potty, etc. If the dog or puppy begins to look nervous or stops wanting to go into the crate, pause to reassess your training plan. Relax your criteria and expect less from the puppy. Don’t push so fast next time. The puppy should be easily successful at every step.

Once you can put the puppy in and close the crate door for a few seconds, give her bigger treats, instead of little tidbits. Kongs with some Peanut Butter or wet dog food are great for this. Or Bully Sticks or Nylabones are also great. Basically, something edible that takes a bit of time to chew on is perfect. Let the puppy out of her crate any time she wants out, preferably before she starts screaming. If your puppy does throw a fit, you can let her out immediately. That’s contrary to “common knowledge” but if you can teach her to love her crate, then she won’t need to throw a fit anyway, right?

Leave your puppy’s crate open to her during the day, and hide treats or toys in there, so when she happens to head into the crate, she gets rewarded. If you spot her heading into the crate at any time, say “kennel” (not so loudly as to disturb her progress) and either give her a treat or let her get the one inside the kennel. If your dog is afraid of going in or has had a bad experience, crate training is a slow process, but it’s worth it!

You’re working on training her to love her crate, but in the meantime, you may need to use the crate, because she’s destructive and/or not housetrained. If you can at all avoid having the puppy stay in the crate before you’ve worked slowly up to leaving her in the crate for 15-30 minutes at a time, do so. That means that if your puppy neither housetrained nor crate trained, you might want to tether the puppy to you with a leash around your waist or put her in a front pack.

You can leave the puppy in the bathroom or an exercise pen with some newspaper for a few days while you train her to love her crate. Or, worst case, you can use one type of kennel for leaving her in the daytime and train her to love the other one. At night, you can have her sleep in the bed for a few days while you train her to like her crate. For young puppies, it shouldn’t take very long to get her to go willingly into the crate and stay there. Every time you put her into the crate, give her a treat that takes time to consume, like the aforementioned Kong.

Crate Training Option 2: Go to Your Rug

wooden dog crate
Crates don’t have to be ugly!

Another option is to target train your dog, and then transfer that to crate training. For example, you can train her to go to a rug, and then gradually move that rug inside the crate. One way to do this is to follow the steps above for shaping your dog to enter the crate, but use it for the rug. Here’s another way to train a Magnetic Rug:

Toss the rug (crate pad) onto the floor in front of your puppy with a flourish.

She’ll go over to sniff it. If your puppy ends up on the rug, continue to the next step. If not, lure her onto the rug.

Give her several Click/treats for being a great puppy.

Say ‘okay’ and gently take the rug out from under her. The stolen rug is now worth a Million Dog Dollars.

Wait a few seconds and repeat.

Once your puppy is predictably heading to the rug or crate pad, say “rug” or “bed” or “go to your bed” or (my personal favorite), “disappear.” You want to say the cue about a second before the dog does the behavior. Eventually, you can say “Disappear” and she’ll go to the rug on her own. Work on adding different variables, like training from further away or with more distractions. To transfer this to crate training, put the rug closer and closer to the crate, until it’s all the way inside. You can use the same cue, or you can create a new one. Just say, “Kennel” and then pause for a second, then say “disappear” (which your puppy already now knows) and click/treat when she goes into the kennel and onto the rug. Eventually, train without the crate pad inside, if you want to make sure she’s really getting the crate idea.

Crate Training Option 3: Targeting

With targeting, you first teach the dog to touch a target and then eventually put that target into the crate. Then you can put “getting into the crate” on cue.

First, teach your dog or puppy to touch a post-it, yoghurt lid, or a target stick.

Now that the dog or puppy will touch the target, you’ll start to get her closer and closer to the crate. Have the crate out and open. Work at a distance that the dog notices the crate, but isn’t fleeing the scene.

For the steps below, every time you cue Target, and the dog does, click and treat. If they don’t, put the target behind your back and put it back out again, saying “Target.” After a few times, if the dog still isn’t touching, the crate is probably to blame. Cut back on the difficulty by changing the location of the target.

  • Have the dog turn toward the crate to touch the target – just put the target between the dog and the crate (just a few inches) and cue your puppy to Target.
  • Present the target a step away from the dog, still between the dog and the crate entrance.
  • Two steps…
  • Three steps… Continue this until the dog begins to enter the crate.
  • Put the target further and further into the crate (you may have to put it through the side of the crate.)
  • Eventually, the target is at the far back of the crate, so the dog has to enter all the way in.

Once the dog is regularly going all the way into the crate to touch the target, start to say “Kennel,” a second before you cue the touch. Gradually fade the target, making it more and more invisible. If it’s a target stick, start to telescope it shorter or “choke up” on it. If it’s a paper target, cut it smaller and smaller. If you ever say “Kennel” and the dog goes in before you can say touch, skip the Target cue and just click and treat.

Work up to shutting the door longer and longer, as above.

Warning: Crated Dogs/Puppies Should be Naked in their Crates

One final word of caution – make sure your puppy is not wearing a collar or harness when left alone in her crate or pen. He may get caught on the crate and strangle. If you must leave a collar on the puppy, use something like the KeepSafe Breakaway dog collar, which comes off of the dog if they get caught.

[/s2If]

Lesson 13: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

HOMEWORK:

  • Look at the list for the Puppy’s Rule of Twelve and create your own food puzzle to get your dog used to one or more of the items on that list.
  • Video:  Record a short video of play or other interaction with a dog outside of your household. Take the time to write out all of the behaviors in at least 30 seconds of the video. I recommend playing it back for yourself in slow motion.
  • Red flags: are you seeing anything in your puppy that concerns you about behavior later? What can you do to work on that now? Socialization and problem prevention are important than training tricks or even manners.
  • Continue to socialize your puppy with dogs and humans outside of your household
  • Practice the training skills, targeting and crate training
  • Food for thought: Think of the specific behavior that you trained the most recent dog or puppy to join your household (before this puppy). Ponder that list through the lens of needs. How well was your dog able to meet his needs? Which behaviors were most helpful for that? What could you have taught that would have been more useful for the dog?

For example, I taught Peanut to spin, roll over, and sit pretty when he was 10 weeks old. Given another opportunity to train Peanut as a puppy, I would have spent that time and belly capacity to teach cooperative grooming sooner, like toothbrushing or nail trimming.

content[/s2If]

Lesson 11: (Needs) Food Puzzles

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

FOOD PUZZLES

While dogs, like people, will take food that is offered to them, that’s not what they prefer. In fact, decades of research on contrafreeloading indicates that animals prefer to work for their food rather than having it provided for free. Well, most animals. It seems that maybe cats actually do like having staff, although puzzles are still good for them. So instead of putting your dog’s food in a bowl each day, have him work for some or all of it by putting it into food puzzles.

Food puzzles and exploration of the natural world are both good for the brain and your puppy’s overall welfare. As researchers on the “eureka” effect wrote, “opportunities to solve problems, make decisions, and exercise cognitive skills are important to an animal’s emotional experiences and ultimately, its welfare.”

Food puzzles come in many shapes and sizes and you can even make your own. For example, I made puzzles out of empty vegan ice cream containers for Peanut and Sagan:

You can get your puppy interested in tennis balls, acclimated to the sound of metal, and entertain her, all at the same time, by making this easy food puzzle. Video is by Debbie Oliver CPDT-KSA of Miss Daisy’s Dog Camp:

Get creative! There are lots of great commercial food puzzles out there, but using some creativity will also help you check off your Rule of Twelve checklist at the same time. For example, letting your puppy knock around a plastic milk jug with kibble in it will help him with sound sensitivity. In that case, your dog is the one that makes the sound happen. We are usually less afraid of events that we can control.

Jolein van Weperen is a great dog trainer and author in the Netherlands who specializes in impulse control and environmental enrichment. I was very impressed with her wide variety of puzzles and toys for dog “brainwork.” Her book, “Happy Handling!” is available in English (click here) or in Dutch (click here).

Here’s Emily Larlham’s video of Jolein’s puzzles:

Here’s some more. The “Treat Trapper” is an exercise that is meant to be done in a relaxed and thoughtful way, not just throwing it around. Watch how Jolein teaches this, in two parts. It’s pretty clear, even if you don’t speak Dutch:

Here’s another video by Jolein with one more puzzle idea:

[/s2If]

Lesson 10: (Needs) What Dogs Need, How we Know, and Problem Behavior

Between now and the next Pause to Practice, we will cover Needs:

  • What does your puppy need and how do you know?
  • How needs lead to problems
  • Frustration Tolerance
  • Food puzzles
  • Training: Targeting a Post-It or yoghurt lid
  • Training: Crate

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

“You can’t always get what you want
But if you try sometimes, well you just might find
You get what you need”

– The Rolling Stones

WHAT DOES YOUR PUPPY NEED and HOW DO YOU KNOW?

When we bring a dog into our home, we become his caretaker. Simply by having the dog in human society, in our homes or on our property, we have taken away many of the ways that dogs are able to meet their own needs. Just like caretakers at a modern zoo, our roles as canine caretakers is to provide ways for dogs meet their needs. In this lesson, I have split dogs’ needs into the following categories.

  • Safety and comfort
  • Survival of the species/social group (reproduction)
  • Food/Water Intake
  • Food/Water Outlet
  • Family / Social Interaction
  • Other Environmental Enrichment

After this video, I’ll comment a bit on each category above.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/121209646″]

Safety means both physical and emotional safety. With our puppies, that means only having them in situations that they can handle, and working as quickly as possible to help them feel comfortable in a variety of situations. It’s our responsibility to provide and prepare our dogs for grooming required for health and comfort (like tooth brushing and nail trimming for all breeds and fur brushing or even trimming for some breeds) and veterinary care, including vaccinations to prevent disease. Vaccines save lives, but they are not entirely benign. Don’t skip necessary vaccines, but also look into whether a particular vaccine is really needed for your dog’s lifestyle and location.

Physical exercise is primarily in the safety category, because insufficient exercise is a health risk. We must do so in a safe way, however, like training a solid recall and using a leash and harness near traffic. It also means not letting them run off leash toward on-leash dogs, and also removing the leash (if it’s safe) or leaving the area if a loose dog comes to them. I cringe whenever I see a poor puppy on a leash surrounded by dogs. No matter how friendly the dogs are, it’s quite scary for the puppy, who has nowhere to go. He’s like bait on a rope. If the area is enclosed and the dogs are friendly and well socialized, you might choose to let your puppy off-leash. Otherwise, it’s probably best to move on and avoid the stress.

Part of physical safety is protection from the elements, with my preference being that the dog lives indoors, with the family. Puppies need more sleep than adult dogs. Adults may sleep 12 to 16 hours each day, so a 3-month old puppy would need more like 15 or 20 hours per day. Puppies need a chance to consolidate memories made, so please set up your puppy’s world so that he gets plenty of rest. That means paying attention to where his sleeping areas are, keeping children out of there, etc. After exciting play times, don’t just leave the puppy all revved up. Do something to help him relax afterwards.

The individual dog needs to be safe, but the species and the family also need to survive. Humans know that dogs are doing pretty well as a species, and in fact we have more dogs than we can care for. Not every dog needs to breed. But it is our responsibility to encourage breeders to select mentally and physically sound dogs that thrive in human care. I’m on my soapbox here, but we owe our dogs a good future as a species and that means we need to stop breeding for looks at the expense of sanity and health.

Food and water need to go in and out of your dog’s system on a regular basis. Nutrition is beyond the scope of this course, but do pay attention to the food that goes into your puppy’s body. A dog’s diet has an effect on energy levels, overall health, lifespan, receptivity to training, and even can contribute to anxiety and other behavioral issues. Water should be available to your puppy and never withdrawn as punishment. Make sure you have water available when the puppy is alone, rather than taking it up to avoid the need to urinate.

For food and water to get out of your dog’s body in a way that you don’t mind, your dog needs regular walks or access to the outdoors. Leaving your puppy outside all day, however, may introduce him to certain things he’s not able to handle, like teasing children. He may learn to bark at passersby because he is afraid of them or is trying to get their attention. The same applies to a dog door. It’s better than an accident on your floor, but it’s less risky to take the puppy out regularly, have someone stop by to give potty walks, or have pads or papers near your door for times when the puppy can’t hold it.

According to the Association of Zoos and Aquariums article on enrichment, environmental enrichment is “the dynamic process for enhancing animal environments within the context of the animals’ behavioral biology and natural history.” Environmental enrichment is basically about giving the animals a chance to make choices that matter.

AZA writes, “Environmental changes are made with the goal of increasing the animals’ behavioral choices and drawing out their species-appropriate behaviors, thus enhancing animal welfare.” Enrichment includes natural social groupings to promote social interaction, as well as sensory enrichment, food enrichment, and training. We can do a lot of this with our dogs. For example:

  • Having more than one dog in your home (not always possible or advisable)
  • Play dates or walks with other dogs
  • Learning to understand our dogs’ behavior
  • Early socialization with many dogs outside of the family, so that your dog understands how to communicate with his own species (and wants to)
  • Not continuously training (allow natural behaviors and choices whenever possible)
  • Going for walks in places with interesting smells, surfaces, etc.
  • Food puzzles of various complexity (more on that later in this lecture)
  • More odors, puzzles, sounds, etc. if dog is housebound
  • Training that serves a purpose for the dog (focus on behaviors that help the dog)

Those are all needs that dogs might have. In the moment, your dog may have a particular need or even a want. We already spoke about 2-way communication in the first lesson. Have these needs in mind when you observe your dog’s behavior or ask him a question. Teach specific behavior that helps him communicate his wants and needs.

HOW NEEDS LEAD TO PROBLEMS

power-cordMy laptop is stubborn. It insists on shutting down, even though it knows how much I appreciate it working and that I need it to stay on while I type this lesson for you. I can plead, shout, and buy some time by turning down the brightness, but in the end, only plugging my computer into power will stop this unwanted behavior. Fortunately, I have alternatives. If I leave it plugged in before I use it, I can work for hours without this problem behavior. By meeting the computer’s needs in a way that works with my schedule, we’re both happy.

We can do this with our dogs, too. I believe that most of the problems people have with their dogs is due to unmet needs.

I created the need categories by listing all of the problems that people have brought me over the years as a dog trainer. Let’s take a look at each of the categories and what kinds of “problem behaviors” are really just attempts to meet that need. These are not the ONLY ways these behaviors arise, and some problems are neurological, but you can pretty much always track a behavior back to some need not being met.

Safety

  • Pulling away or toward something
  • Lagging behind on walks (toward home)
  • Barking, growling, biting, etc. (dog feels unsafe, in pain, or just hasn’t had enough sleep)
  •  “Ignoring” owner during training (sniffing ground when given a “command” – happens less with cues)
  • Overexcitement, trouble concentrating (not enough exercise, not enough sleep)

Survival of the species/social group

  • Pulling / running away
  • Mounting
  • Aggression
  • Barking at the door

Food / Water Intake

  • Chewing
  • Resource guarding toys or food
  • Stealing human items
  • Chasing cats, squirrels, etc.
  • Barking at owner

Food / Water Outlet

  • Eliminating inside
  • Pulling on leash

Social Interaction

  • Jumping / Licking
  • Other attention-seeking behavior
  • Pulling toward other dogs or people
  • Boredom barking (repetitive woof, woof, woof…, woof, woof, woof,…)
  • Howling, lack of appetite, and/or exit destruction when alone

Other Environmental Enrichment

  • Puppy biting
  • Chewing / “Stealing”
  • Pulling toward smells or other interesting things
  • Running away
  • Stereotypic (repetitive) behavior
  • Shut down (non-behavior)

The behavior we consider to be a problem is just the dog’s attempt to get what he wants or needs. If he knew another reasonable way to get it that would also make us happy, he would likely do it. We might also be able to get rid of the need instead of meeting it, as with neutering males who wander to find females in season. There’s a section in the Ahimsa Dog Training manual on Functional Rewards. I’ll summarize it here:

Teach appropriate behavior by blocking the reinforcement for behavior you don’t want and reinforce behavior you do want with the consequences the dog is looking for, not just random reinforcers.

By directing our training and care toward helping dogs meet their needs, we can avoid a whole giant list of problems. A lot of what we teach them meets OUR need to feel that we are communicating with or controlling our dogs. Historically, people have come up with harsher and harsher punishments when the dog is “stubborn” or (better) come up with higher and higher valued reinforcers to motivate change. But dogs already want things; that’s where most of the problems come from in the first place. If we teach dogs good ways to control their environment (including us, some of the time), we actually end up having more control than if we constantly have to work against the flow.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/121210059″]

[/s2If]

Barking Mad: BAT and Other Techniques for Frustration

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]frustration-yield[PHP]buyNowButton(“course_001_bm”);[/PHP][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

Start Date: any time!

“I WANT TO DO THAT. NOW!” If dogs could speak in a human language, some of them would be screaming these words in frustration.

[/s2If]We can help our dogs learn to slow down and take information in, rather than rushing into greetings or demanding something from you. Rushed greetings can lead to fighting with other dogs and even just pulling toward other dogs or people can be hard for the handler to manage.

The ideal dog for this course should exhibit frustration toward people, dogs, or some other specific thing. You can also be working on prevention of frustration with a younger dog. This course is NOT for resource guarding — just an overly large interest to go get to something or do something.
[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]

You are enrolled in this course. Please click below to view each lesson.

[catlist id=15 orderby=name order=asc]
[/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]From Amalie H., a student in Barking Mad:

I was actually out this afternoon with my other dog, (fearful human-shy dog Robin), and when we saw that there were other people nearby, I sort of went into BAT-mode. 🙂 The indications that she was giving that she’d noticed them were very subtle, and I totally let her make the decisions for where we were going, and she pretty much always made a good choice– she turned away, arced around them.

It was such a lightbulb moment to see how much these dogs will make the right decisions given the opportunity and the safe structure to do so without us being pushy and making them go where we say. I’m excited to keep using all the things I’ve learned with all of my dogs. It’s really been a fantastic course for us.

frustration-hair[/s2If]


This course was written by Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP. Barking Mad covers a variety of techniques for impulse control, relaxation, and appropriate greetings, including clicker training, applied behavior analysis, and Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT). It will look at the root of why we are getting the barking, pulling, or other frustration behavior and go over practical solutions.

NOTE: BAT 101 or a thorough understanding of BAT 2.0 from elsewhere is required as a prerequisite for this course.

If you are enrolled in this course and have an ABBA membership, you can participate in the Facebook group for peer feedback. This is a member-moderated group for Grisha’s students.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_001_bm)]
Here are the list of topics. The links will work if you sign up for this course and log in.

Note: If you already registered for this course elsewhere, you get free access here in the BBA. [Access Request Info]

[catlist id=15 orderby=name order=asc]


[/s2If]
[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “course_001_bm”;
$desc = “Barking Mad Online Course”;
$price = “99”;
$productType = “courses”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

BAT 101: Introduction to Behavior Adjustment Training

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]
[PHP]buyNowButton(“course_002_bt”);[/PHP]lunging[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

Start Date: any time!

[/s2If]Aggression, frustration, and fear are no fun for the dog or for the caretaker. If you have a dog with these issues or you work with these issues in your training or behavior mod business, this course is for you.

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]

You are enrolled in this course. Please click below to view each lesson.

[catlist id=14 orderby=name order=asc]
[/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]BATlogo-colorBehavior Adjustment Training (BAT) has quickly become one of the most popular force-free techniques to rehabilitate and prevent (over)reactivity in dogs and even other species, like horses and even humans. This is your chance to start adding this useful, naturalistic technique to your training toolbox.

BAT 101 is appropriate for beginners. Even if you are experienced with the older version of BAT, this will still be useful because there was a lot of new BAT 2.0 material in 2014.

If you are enrolled in this course and have an ABBA membership, you can participate in the Facebook group for peer feedback. This is a member-moderated group for Grisha’s students.

Here are some of the things you will learn for your dog:

  • How to use a leash in a way that maximizes your dog’s learning and comfort
  • How and when to stay out of your dog’s way
  • How to read your dog’s body language
  • How to safely manage walks and training set-ups to maximize learning and minimize stress

“I was looking for anything that would help us with the elusive loose leash walk. I was not disappointed. Once my golden is wearing a harness and I use the described rope leash technique, he is almost a gentleman. I can walk in a store with him casually sniffing bags of dog food and even politely greeting people. Wonderful. We even went for a run together. Thank you.”

– BAT 101 Student, February 2015

“Have studied canine psychology for many years but have to say that by using BAT I have had amazing success with my reactive dog …thank you BAT.☺

– Lorraine W

[/s2If]


BAT is great for helping dogs with fear gain confidence
BAT is for fear, too, not just aggression. Most barking, growling, etc. is from fear, anyway.

This course was written by Grisha Stewart, MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP. Leash skills will be heavily emphasized in this intro course, because they are the very foundation of BAT. It is essential to be able to give the dog a sense of freedom while maintaining safety. The leash skills are not just something we do before we do BAT, they are the fabric that holds BAT together. Once a client fully masters the leash skills, they are probably already 80% of the way toward doing BAT successfully.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_002_bt)]
Note: Intro to BAT is a pre-requisite for all of the later BAT courses. If you already registered for this course elsewhere, you get free access here in ABBA. [Access Request Info]

Here are the list of topics. The links will work if you sign up for this course and log in.

[catlist id=14 orderby=name order=asc]


[/s2If]
[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “course_002_bt”;
$desc = “BAT 101 Online Course”;
$price = “99”;
$productType = “courses”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

Lesson 9: Pause to Practice

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

Here are some recommendations for practice in the next week or so:

  • Practice the 5-second rule (or more like 1- or 3-second rule, depending on the puppy) with a person your puppy doesn’t know.
    Have the person turn away if there is any jumping or biting. If your puppy is not interested in the contact, have the person do Touch + Find It with your puppy or just toss the puppy treats without requiring Touch. If you have them do Touch, you should practice it first so you know your puppy can do it.You may need to do the clicking, cueing, and treating, with the person just being the target.  If you film it, go over your video and note your puppy’s body language.
  • Meet up with another puppy or vaccinated adult dog with good social skills. If the play starts speeding up or you see cut-off signals that are not correctly responded to by the other dog, help them out as I mentioned above with Roxy and Sammy. Film the whole session and select a few minutes from that interaction to observe. What body language do you see?
  • Practice each of these skills with a long line, as described in the previous lesson. Be sure to practice with a chair or a person before practicing with your dog. You have a lot to do this week, but do try it if you can!
    • Handle
    • Slide
    • Slow Stop
    • Relax the Leash
    • Mime Pulling
    • Shorter
    • Longer
  • Practice the Name and Touch

[/s2If]

Lesson 8: BAT Leash Skills

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

BAT LEASH SKILLS

Many dogs are reactive on leash and “fine” off leash. I think that a lot of the problem is how we walk our dogs on leash. The dog has little to no choice of where to go. Because of sidewalks and how humans walk, she has to walk in a straight line right at other dogs and people. She is forced into situations that scare her and pulled away from most of the chances to learn about her world through sniffing.

The video below is by Charmaine Anthony, CBATI, demonstrating the BAT style of walking with a lab puppy. Notice that even though he is concerned about the fountain a few times, Charmaine’s relaxed leash handling helps him take in more information and realize that he’s actually okay:

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135897011″]

The leash is there for safety and would also be used to help slow him to a stop if he were getting too close to something scary. She doesn’t need to call him away during this video, but if she did, she’d verbally call and if that doesn’t work, use a leash technique called mime pulling, which you’ll learn about beolw. But you shouldn’t constantly be telling the puppy where to go. At least half of your walk, let your puppy choose where to go. Let him learn about his world at his own pace!

When your puppy greets dogs on leash, it may be awkward because of the way the leashes change the dogs’ body language and motivations. Many dogs are literally pulled in two directions at the same time: one by their interest in other dogs and one by the leash.

So how do we avoid all of this? I recommend that you practice the BAT leash skills and use them with your puppy whenever you can. Instead of your short leash and collar, have the puppy in a harness and use a comfortable leash that is about 12-15 feet long. In group classes or other tight situations, you may need to use a shorter leash unless you are good at handling the longer one. You can easily clip two leashes together to make a 12-foot leash. I like the round Mendota leashes (same material as our custom long lines).

The Ahimsa Dog Training Manual has tips on leash walking, for teaching your dog not to pull. The simple tip I’ll give in this lecture is to reinforce behavior that you like, including the times when your dog comes back to you if he feels any pressure on the leash.

This week we are going to focus on YOU not pulling using the same leash handling skills that we use to rehabilitate reactivity. I think this will be very helpful for your puppy’s socialization.

Here’s another clip, with my dog Peanut, so you can see what I’m doing with the leash:

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/131015410″]

Please download the leash skills handout PDF (also in other languages on my public Handouts Page for family and friends). Practice each of these skills. Watch the video above before you try them out with a friend. Here are a few illustrations to help you. They were drawn by the fabulous Lili Chin of http://DoggieDrawings.net. animated-slowstop

Slow Stop is used any time you need to stop the dog without the added distraction of calling verbally.

Mime pulling is used to get your puppy to turn and go with you, when calling away isn’t enough.  The illustration below shows the “Slide” aspect of mime pulling. Your front hand doesn’t grip the leash, it just slides through to create a vibration. Your hand can even be flat. Use slightly more braking distance than this illustration.

animated-mimepulling

Using a friend as your ‘dog,’ practice the following skills. Your helper doesn’t need to act like a dog, just move around with the leash. Please practice this for a while with a person, then get our feedback, before trying it with your puppy. During the exercises, the human-dog should walk upright (as humans do) and hold the leash clip at his/her waist (target the belly button).

The person should give you feedback on how it feels. If you don’t have a human to practice with, tie your leash to a chair. For Slide, slow stop, and mime pulling, swap roles with your friend so you can see what it feels like.

  • Using a short leash (6 feet / 2 meters), practice:
    • Handle
    • Slide
    • Slow Stop
    • Relax the Leash
    • Mime Pulling
  • Using a long line (12-15 feet / 4-5 meters), practice by having yourself move away and toward the ‘dog’ and also having your human ‘dog’ move away and toward you, at various speeds:
    • Shorter
    • Longer

TRAINING RECOMMENDATIONS:

The training skills this week are:

  • Touch (Nose to Hand)
  • Name

Instructions for Touch and the Name Game are both in Chapter 4 of the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual. I’ll add some more information here, but if you don’t already know how to teach these two cues, look at the manual for more information.

Touch: With the Touch cue, your dog touches her nose to your hand. Touch is useful for getting your dog’s focus, for moving her from one place to another, for getting past distractions, and even getting your dog to come to you. Think about it. In order for your dog to touch her nose to your hand, she has to turn away from what she is doing and bring her nose to your hand. This automatically brings the rest of her body with her. It’s possibly THE most useful skill for a dog to have.

Alternate between Touch and Find It. So when you click for your dog touching your hand target, say Find It and toss a treat on the floor for your puppy to find. Start with an easy location and build up to tossing it several puppy-lengths away. I do this for two reasons:
1. It moves the puppy away and sets you up for another Touch, automatically building distance into the Touch cue.

2. Find It is probably my second favorite cue for dogs to know. You can use it as a distraction, to reduce stress, and for physical and mental exercise.

Name: The dog’s name means “the next instruction is for you.” Say the name (or give the name visual cue if your puppy is deaf) and reinforce any attention to you, including ear flicks, head turns, and eye contact. Vary the reinforcement: treats, toys, running away, and cues! Yes, cues. If your puppy knows Sit, Touch, etc., use those as a reinforcer for your dog paying attention to his name.

Remember, training is great, but the socialization is more important.

[/s2If]

Lesson 7: (Social Skills) Socialization with Other Animals

The statement I made before about friends being more important than acquaintances applies to other dogs, too! There are certain things that are just better explained in dog language. Practicing saying ‘hi’ 500 times is good, but they also need to have full conversations, too.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

OTHER DOGS

Bite inhibition, play skills, and the nuances of communication are really only something other dogs can teach each other, so help your puppy make many canine friends outside of your family.

Have her interact with a variety of dogs: breed, age, neuter status, sex, play style, etc. This doesn’t just mean play time. Interactions should also include mellow time, like going for a walk to explore together, playing with their own toys near each other, or being trained by the same person (feed treats carefully so they don’t go nose to nose).

Note: Kira has some resource guarding issues and her brother needs help learning about cut-off signals. But the rest of the video demonstrates that socializing isn’t always about rough-and-tumble play.

*****

Meet up for walks with other people from your local puppy class and from your neighborhood. Have a dog friend or two come over for play dates in the back yard. Go for a short walk together first and then go into the yard together. Be careful if you have an older dog already – he may not want visitors.

Give permission to ‘go say hi’ when you are ready to let your puppy greet another dog or person. Introductions go best when they are either off leash in a safe area. Attempt to greet while moving on a walk, parallel or following, with the dogs gradually merging closer. The latter can be done on or off leash. Keep the leashes in a little ‘smile’ and avoid tangling. When they are on leash, nothing should be between you and your dog but the leash. It helps to rotate with the dogs as they move around. Call your dog away if he gets stiff, is too rough, tries to put his head over the other dog’s neck, or the other dog is trying to get away. Have the other owner call his dog if that dog is too rough or you see your dog giving cut-off signals or trying to get away.

Please do not share this image
Please do not share this image

You may need to step out of your comfort zone to find friends for your dog. Use good judgment on your personal safety, but you can use the bulletin board at your local pet store or coffee shop in your neighborhood to find dog friends. I wish I had done more of this for my dog, Peanut, but I was shy and my friends didn’t have dogs. We relied on puppy class and our local park for his socialization with dogs, even taking multiple puppy classes, but that kind of interaction was too intense for him to appreciate being around other dogs.

Here’s a video of me with Bean and a new Chihuahua cross friend he was making. I have both leashes at first and then swap to having the other caretaker have a leash. It’s not perfect, since I’m also filming. Notice that Bean’s leash is mostly loose the entire time, so he feels as off-leash as possible.

Note: if you are a trainer, considering offering matchmaking as a free service for your clients. This can be done on your site or as a Facebook group, for example.

OTHER SPECIES OF ANIMALS

Which species might your dog encounter in her lifetime? Cats? Geese? Pigs? Horses? Cows? Lizards? Geckos? Ducks? Elephants?

Puppyhood is the time where dogs make their database of what is normal, so have your puppy see and smell these animals now. Make sure your puppy is safe, can move away whenever she wants, and larger animals cannot step on her.

Make sure you are calm and relaxed during the greeting, and demonstrate that by having a loose body that is not stiff or frozen. Breathe calmly, preferably using diaphragmatic breathing (also known as yoga breathing or belly breathing). Move in a relaxed way to model the sort of attitude that you want the dog to have. Interact calmly with the other animal as well. All of the above applies to greetings with people and other dogs, too!

PLAY, CONFLICT RESOLUTION, AND SOCIAL CONSEQUENCES

Learning how to play is one reason that trainers encourage play with other dogs and people as part of puppy socialization.

Play is an important part of how dogs learn to interact with their species. Play is like fighting, but it has a continuous stream of behavior that’s incompatible with fighting. These behaviors signal, “just kidding!” and if that signal is understood, the mock fight continues. If a dog misses that signal, she might interpret the other dog’s attempt to play as a threat. She might give a cut-off signal (turning away, slowing down, avoiding eye contact, fleeing) and if the other dog responds to it, the play can continue when she’s ready to start again. But if her cut-off signal is ignored and the other dog plows into her, she might escalate to barking, growling, or snapping. That’s why humans need to carefully monitor the puppy’s play with other dogs.

Some dogs also don’t give enough play signals during their play, or don’t wait for the response of the other dog before continuing. Play contains many important social skills for puppies to practice!

Through play, puppies also get to practice hunting and get mental and physical exercise through play. Like humans, most dogs continue to play throughout their lives, which is an uncommon trait. It’s probably one of the reasons we like sharing our lives with dogs.

Let’s take a look at how puppies can learn proper conflict resolution. All puppies are unique, so there will be interactions when one puppy wants to play (call her Roxy) and another does not (call him Sammy). So here’s how we would want that to go.

  • Roxy: tries to initiate play (makes eye contact, bows, spins)
  • Sammy: tries to say no to the play by using a cut-off signal (avoids eye contact, turns away, moves away slowly)
  • Roxy: accepts the rejection (Turns away and plays with another puppy or her person)

If Roxy didn’t do that on her own, we could call her away, cue and reinforce Leave It, or if needed, gently restrain her while Sammy moves away, then feed her a treat when she relaxes or turns away from Sammy.

For training geeks: With enough repetition of this sort of interaction, these puppies may learn something. Some of the learning was from social consequences. The reinforcers that are not provided by the trainer are called naturally occurring reinforcement.

Sammy will probably learn that his behavior ‘works’ via naturally occurring negative reinforcement. His behavior stops the interaction. What we usually see after enough of this is that he becomes confident enough to play with the other dog. Knowing that he can easily set boundaries and stop the play seems to build his trust in the relationship. As they become friends, the cut-off signals and play signals become more and more subtle.

Roxy will probably learn that sometimes other puppies don’t want to play with her, and that that’s okay. The play soliciting behavior worked with the next dog, so that’s naturally occurring reinforcement on a variable schedule. If we cue an alternate behavior and reinforce it, Roxy now has another option besides for chasing the other dog. Be careful, though, because cues trained with reinforcement can serve as markers, so the best moment to say Leave It or call the dog is when she hesitates or moves away from Sammy.

In the scenario with Roxy being restrained, that’s differential reinforcement of incompatible behavior and some classical counterconditioning for the restraint as well. The restraint can become a discriminative stimulus for the ‘leave it’ sort of behavior. If she were to bark or pounce on the other dog, she might need a short time out from the play (negative punishment and just time to reduce excitement). When you calmly put her back into the play time, we don’t want her to go right back and pounce on Sammy, for his sake. Give Roxy something to do that helps keep her from pouncing (holding a tug rope, for example). If that’s not enough, you might take her away from the play time, run up and down the street several times to tire her out, then walk up and down once and return to play.

Puppies need to have successful interactions, because perfect practice makes perfect. Puppies should interact with dogs that are at their level of interaction as well as just to either side of it. What I mean by that is that a puppy should have chances to play with dogs who are just a little more cautious than them, right at their level, and slightly more rambunctious. It helps no one to have a really energetic puppy play with a dog who wants to hide under the chair. It’s like putting a calculus problem in front of a child in first grade. They just aren’t ready.

Keep in mind that your puppy changes daily, so the puppy they met last week that was the brave and rowdy one may be more hesitant than your puppy this week. Train the puppy you have today.

Here’s an example of two dogs who know each other that are playing. They have abbreviated cut-off and play signals, and the hound sometimes ignores them and keeps pushing, but they are mostly in sync. Toward the end, a third dog charges in with a different style. You can clearly see both dogs freeze and not play with her. These social consequences help educate our puppies. In this video, the other dog was also removed after the cut-off signals of the other dogs.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135895900″]

[/s2If]

Course Overview (Syllabus)

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php]

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view the rest of the lessons, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

If you haven’t already signed up for membership, consider doing so because it is a great way to stay motivated. One thing members get is access to Grisha’s ABBA Facebook group. You can post videos and ask/answer questions in a discussion with your fellow ABBA members. The group is moderated by our teaching staff to keep the conversations on track.

HOW TO USE THESE LESSONS

Read through the lessons at your own pace. Every 2-4 lessons, we will pause to give you some tasks to practice. I recommend that you read the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual with this course.

This sample agenda is listed with weekly lessons, but you can take whatever time you need:

Week 1: Philosophy

  • The perfect dog
  • Philosophy of Empowerment
  • 2-way Communication with your dog, including body language
  • Training: Autowatch
  • Training: Take treats gently
  • Training: potty outside

Week 2: Social Skills

  • People
  • Dogs
  • Other species
  • Play, conflict resolution, and social consequences
  • BAT leash skills
  • Training: Touch (nose to hand)
  • Training: Name

Week 3: Needs

  • What does your puppy need?
  • How do you know?
  • How needs lead to problems
  • Frustration Tolerance
  • Food puzzles
  • Training: Targeting a Post-It or yoghurt lid
  • Training: Crate

Week 4: Cooperative Care

  • What cooperation looks like and how to get it
  • Grooming (nail file, brush)
  • Vet Care (syringe, inspection, wrap)
  • Going for a walk
  • Training: Head through harness
  • Training: Restraint
  • Training: Shake (paw)

Week 5: The Environment

  • Surfaces
  • Sounds
  • Moving objects
  • Balance & proprioception
  • Parallel play
  • Training: Stay / stop
  • Training: Targeting head into objects (For example, Elizabethan collar or cone, muzzle, cereal box)

Week 6: Problem Solving Skills

  • Reminder of where problems come from
  • Which skills help with which problems
  • Another dose of philosophy
  • Training: Bring/drop
  • Training: Food bowl
  • Training: Recall

Lesson 1: (Philosophy) What is Socialization?

_MG_2639 2

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

We have made this lesson public because the information is so critical. To view other lessons, please purchase the Empowered Puppy Raising course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

If you have a puppy (or a young animal of any species), socialization should be your main focus in the weeks and months to come. This whole course is designed with socialization and essential skills in mind, but if you can’t keep up with the homework in the class, just focus on socialization. Skills can wait.

Puppy socialization is low-stress exposure to various aspects of everyday life – people, dogs, surfaces, noises, etc. Always make sure it’s not a stressful event and that your puppy has as much control over her experience of the situation as possible. (Dog geeks: socialization is officially just with other animals but has come to mean more).

Puppies that are not well-socialized often have problems with aggression, fear, or manners later. Under-socialized dogs are often not comfortable with the world they live in and are less able to cope with change than they should be. Many dogs at the shelter that look abused were actually just under-socialized as puppies. People are often afraid of the germs that their puppy might encounter when they are out in the world, but the major killer of dogs in the U.S. is not disease, it’s behavior, which is directly correlated to puppy socialization. For most of the dogs, that could have been changed with early socialization and puppy training.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/121312349″]

rolling-dogSocialize your puppy now in a positive way. Because of our current understanding of the importance of behavior, and because of vaccine advancements, we start socializing puppies earlier than we used to.

Most of the new puppy vaccines can be given starting at 6 weeks old, and start being effective for relatively clean environments about 10 days later. Previous vaccines would fight with the immunization given by the mother and thus lose effectiveness, but newer vaccines have solved this problem, so we can vaccinate earlier than we could years ago.

After your puppy gets his first round of shots, he is ready to be carefully exposed to the world. We still need to minimize risks for disease until the vaccinations are complete (usually 3 sets of combo shots) and keep the socialization fun for your puppy. That’s the key to everything – socialization is a fun, confidence-building experience for your puppy.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior recommends starting puppy classes 7 days after your puppy’s first set of shots, in most cases. Click here for the AVSAB position statement (PDF). Another veterinarian’s opinion on puppy socialization is provided by Dr. R.K. Anderson.

“The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing overstimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated” – AVSAB

Trainer Note: If you run a training school, be sure to keep your facility clean so that it is safe for the puppies. When I owned Ahimsa Dog Training in Seattle, we had about 12 puppy classes each week. We worked hard to keep medical and emotional risks to a minimum. We had the facility professionally cleaned with a virucide the night before each puppy class, ask all puppy owners for proof of vaccination and urged them to keep their puppies’ vaccinations up to date. We also required our students to avoid the dog park while they are enrolled in puppy class.

Your puppy is learning and socializing right now, every second that she’s awake. People used to say that you couldn’t start obedience training with a puppy until it was six months old. But they meant you couldn’t properly punish a dog until that age with a choke chain, because of their growing puppy bones. With positive training methods, you don’t have to wait. Using positive training, some dog breeders send home puppies that already know how to sit on cue. That’s just one more reason to be dog-friendly – you can teach your puppy manners now! You can and should start teaching your puppy basic cues, like sit, down, etc. using a clicker or just using treats and praise. But your main focus during puppyhood should not be on manners or ‘obedience’, but rather on socialization with other puppies, dogs, humans, surfaces, sounds, and more.

Puppies are socialization sponges. First impressions are strong, events that they experience in this time period (especially scary ones) will stick with them forever. Sources differ, but many say that the primary socialization period is up until 12 weeks . From 12-16 weeks, they are learning as well, but not as quickly as they did up to 12 weeks. Every new experience for your puppy should be positive — accompanied by treats, praise, and/or fun. Up until 6 months, you should only have your puppy in socializing environments that you have solid control over.

Socialize with dogs in a force-free puppy training class, a puppy play group, or a neighbor’s yard, not the dog park! One recent study found that dogs about 6 month of age were the target for the most aggression in the park, more than any other age group. Once your dog is old enough to go to the dog park, and you decide it’s worth the risk, protect him from harm by moving along, not letting him get harassed by other dogs, etc. If you have a small breed dog, you should probably wait even longer than six months. There are opportunities for play and socialization outside of the park, and you should take advantage of them.

Many people are surprised to learn that the full socialization period for a puppy is two years! But your dog will be your companion for 10 to 15 more years! Why not invest some time in her now?

Scanning is a sign of fear
Scanning is a sign of fear

What sort of things should you socialize your new puppy to? Everything!! Your puppy should experience a bit of cold, funny noises, strange hats, interesting textures, calm restraint (praise and release it when puppy is calm, but let go immediately if puppy is scared), other dogs (your own dogs are not enough!) and many other things.

Puppies should also learn to stop mouthing, gradually. All of these topics in a good puppy socialization class, but you should start with exposing your puppy to new things now. Socialization doesn’t just mean play.

Take a look at the Puppy’s Rule of Twelve by Margaret Hughes for some ideas:

The Puppy’s Rule of Twelve (adapted)
Positive Paws Dog Training ©2002 – Margaret Hughes
Adapted with permission from Pat Schaap’s “RULE OF 7’s” for 7 week old puppies

(If your puppy is over 12 weeks start right away with this socialization guide.)

Make sure all experiences are safe and positive for the puppy. Each encounter should include treats and lots of praise, and your puppy should be able to leave whenever s/he wants. Slow down and add distance if your puppy is scared!

By the time a puppy is 12 weeks old, it should have:

  • Experienced 12 different surfaces: wood, wood chips, carpet, tile, cement, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud, puddles, deep pea gravel, grates, uneven surfaces, on a table, on a chair, etc……
  • Played with 12 different objects: fuzzy toys, big & small balls, hard toys, funny sounding toys, wooden items, paper or cardboard items, milk jugs, metal items, car keys, etc…….
  • Experienced 12 different locations: front yard (daily), other people’s homes, school yard, lake, pond, river, boat, basement, elevator, car, moving car, garage, laundry room, kennel, veterinarian hospital (stop by sometimes just to say hi &amp; visit, lots of cookies, no vaccinations), grooming salon (just to say hi), etc….
  • Met and enjoyed being with / played with 12 new people (outside of family): include children, adults (mostly men), elderly adults, people in wheelchairs, walkers, people with canes, crutches, hats, sunglasses, etc….
  • Heard 12 different noises (ALWAYS keep positive and watch puppy’s comfort level – we don’t want the puppy scared): garage door opening, doorbell, children playing, babies screaming, big trucks, Harley motorcycles, skateboards, washing machine, shopping carts rolling, power boat, clapping, loud singing, pan dropping, horses neighing, vacuums, lawnmowers, birthday party, etc…
  • Seen 12 fast moving objects (don’t allow chasing): skateboards, roller-skates, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, people running, cats running, scooters, vacuums, children running, children playing soccer, squirrels, cats, horses running, cows running, etc…
  • Experienced 12 different challenges: climb on, in, off and around a box, go through a cardboard tunnel, climb up and down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide &amp; seek, go in and out a doorway with a step up or down, exposed to an electric sliding door, umbrella, balloons, walk on a wobbly table (plank of wood with a small rock underneath), jump over a broom, climb over a log, bathtub (and bath) etc….
  • Been handled by owner 12 times a week (only do as much as puppy is comfortable with): hold under arm (like a football), hold to chest, hold on floor near owner, hold in-between owner’s legs, hold head, look in ears, mouth, in-between toes, hold and take temperature (ask veterinarian), hold like a baby, trim toe nails, hold in lap, etc… Note: get the puppy’s cooperation here whenever possible and treat a lot. Add predictability by saying what you are about to do (for example “Ears” – touch ear – treat). If the puppy moves away, you’re pushing too quickly. Back it up and work at the puppy’s pace.
  • Eaten from 12 different shaped containers: wobbly bowl, metal, cardboard box, paper, coffee cup, china, pie plate, plastic, frying pan, Kong, Treatball, Bustercube, spoon fed, paper bag, etc……
  • Eaten in 12 different locations: back yard, front yard, crate, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bathroom, friend’s house, car, school yard, bathtub, up high (on work bench), under umbrella, etc….
  • Made 12 different dog friends (puppies or safe adult dogs). [This does NOT mean at the dog park and it doesn’t always mean rough and tumble play, although should be part of it.]
  • Been alone safely, away from family and other animals (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week.
  • Experienced a leash and harness 12 different times in 12 different locations.

I also wanted to add ‘walked in the dark 12 times’ but that seems like a lot for the first 12 weeks. Do at least walk your puppy in the dark 12 times in the first 6 months. And socialization does not end at 12 weeks. Continue helping your dog have positive experiences throughout their first 2 years and then maintain some level of socialization throughout your dog’s life.

Lesson 6: (Social Skills) Socialization With People

Social Skills

Before now and the next Practice lesson, we will cover the following topics:

  • People
  • Other Dogs
  • Other species
  • Play, conflict resolution, and social consequences
  • BAT leash skills
  • Training: Touch (nose to hand)
  • Training: Name

Socialization is a critical part of raising a puppy. Be sure to read my short post, A Note on Socialization, in the lectures. Let’s extend that information by focusing on typical trouble-spots for adult dogs. If your dog hasn’t had a neutral to good experience with something as a young puppy (under 12-16 weeks), he’s likely to have issues if he encounters it for the first time when he’s older.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

PEOPLE

I have people listed first because issues with people have the biggest impact on dogs. People visit our homes, we take our dogs to people for grooming and health checks, and we go on vacations and may want to have people take care of our dogs while we are away. If a dog bites a person, it’s often a much bigger penalty to the dog and the owner than for a bite to another dog. Socialization helps dogs cope and thrive in a world full of people.

 

Good socialization helps puppies know that seeing humans of all shapes and sizes is normal and that (most) humans are even fun to be around. Things like vet care are tolerable and short-lived and your human will help you out of it eventually.

Think of every difference that a dog could perceive in human beings and help your dog get your dog used to all of the many aspects of our species: age, height, weight, ethnicity, gender, posture, mobility, pitch of voice, accent, odor (including cigarettes), amount of eye contact, mannerisms, clothing, even levels of intoxication. What we see as a small difference may terrify an under-socialized dog. If you think about it, dogs are not the only ones with this problem: without proper socialization, people tend to have irrational biases about differences, too.

Extend your dog’s social group and expand her ‘database’ of what is normal. Visit the country. Visit the city. Go to an outdoor shopping mall, ride the bus with your puppy, walk near an assisted living facility, walk by an elementary school during pick-up time, and visit a pet store in another neighborhood. If your puppy is nervous, don’t ride the bus; just wait with the passengers at bus stop and let your puppy meet people. That way, your puppy can meet a lot of new people, but can also move away from the strangers as needed. If you don’t have access to children, at least get your puppy used to the sound of them by playing sound desensitization CDs or audio tracks, starting at low volume during meal time.

Puppy Parties: Have visitors to your home, at many different times, just to help the puppy. Set up situations that teach your puppy that the arrival of guests is a signal to calmly go to a dog bed instead of barking and flipping out with excitement. Put a note at the door asking for patience, so you get the puppy ready. Prepare food puzzles in advance and so that when your friends arrive, you can get the puppy settled with a puzzle. Have a dog bed and the close enough to the door that your puppy can see the door from the bed. Have the food puzzles out of puppy range, but nearby for easy access.

When your friends knock at the door or ring the bell, take your time answering, rather than suddenly standing up and running to the door. Open the door a crack and greet your friendly calmly. This lets some odor in and allows your puppy to learn that someone has arrived. Tell the person, “just a minute” and shut the door (using that same phrase each time will eventually teach your dog to run to the bed when she hears it).

Call your puppy over to the dog bed and give her the food puzzle. Once she’s interested in it, casually go back to the door. If your puppy is still chewing her puzzle, open the door and have your friend come in. If not, just be boring and wait until your puppy goes back to the puzzle before opening the door (you may need better treats in the toy). Try to make it No Big Deal that your friend is there.

This bed is your puppy’s “safe zone” and should not be violated. Do not let anyone, especially children, pet the puppy when he is in his bed. If you see your puppy asking for attention on the bed, go ahead. But generally, the bed is a safe spot and the puppy should be able to go there to avoid anyone if she wants.

Ask your friends to stay relaxed, ‘act normal,’ and let the puppy sniff them when she is ready. If she jumps up, have them turn sideways so she doesn’t get attention for jumping. Any petting should be calm and follow the 5-second rule. Puppies who need distance should be allowed to move away. Explaining the plan and the 5-second rule to your friends in advance will help this all go more smoothly.

If you have another dog that barks when someone knocks at the door, do this exercise with your older dog out for a walk with a friend, in the car, in a bedroom with a Kong, etc. or have them meet the person outside first and come back in with them. You’ll need to also train your older dog not to bark, but it’s faster to work on your puppy now, before a problem begins. You only get one puppyhood. Here’s a video about that from Emily Larlham (Kikopup on YouTube). NOTE: You may need to click the video and then click again to play it directly on YouTube.

Out in public. Introduce your puppy to small crowds of people, but remember that your puppy is the top priority. Make sure your puppy is not surrounded: she should always have a clear escape path that is visible from dog height. Avoid events like firework displays or parades where your puppy meets too many people and all that your puppy sees is a sea of feet to step on her.

You are your puppy’s protector. Interactions with people aren’t always pleasant, because not all people understand things like the 5-second rule or can read when a puppy is nervous. It is your responsibility to help the puppy exit if the person is being inappropriate or is reinforcing behavior you don’t want (like jumping up). When you see cut-off signals or signs of stress (head turns away, multiple lip licks, backing away, tail tucked, etc.) either move the person away from your dog or your dog away from the person. Here are some ideas:

  • Educate in advance about the 5-second rule (or 3- or even 1-second rule)
  • Ask for a specific behavior from the person that is incompatible with the behavior you want to stop (feed a treat, ask your dog to sit, toss a toy, look at puppy’s feet, put your hands on your hips, take one step back, etc.)
  • Call your puppy away
  • Toss treats for your puppy to eat (I call that “Hazard Pay” for putting up with the person)
  • Pick up your puppy
  • Say “Stop” (then leave or explain what to do)

Given how unaware most people are about dog behavior, you are likely to have something rude happen to your puppy from time to time. That’s an opportunity to help your dog learn to move away or to give your dog a treat for putting up with it. If nobody is ever rude to your puppy, you might have to do some of it yourself, just so they know that it’s not the end of the world. Pat instead of petting sometimes, then toss a treat for your puppy to go grab from the floor. Lift the puppy up, treat, and then set her down. Lift up an ear, toss a treat. Again, there are usually plenty of opportunities in your everyday life, so just be ready to help your puppy learn to handle it.

Petting. I hope that your puppy will enjoy physical contact. Free massages are part of the perks of being a dog that lives with humans. Your dog may not enjoy that at first, especially with people from outside of her family.

This is an ideal version of the 5-second rule, with a dog who clearly enjoys a lot of physical affection from his dad (thanks to Benjamin Bonhomme, CBATI for the video):

But not all dogs really want 5 seconds, especially puppies. You have to observe for signs that you are petting for too long. For the 5-second rule, it’s *at most* 5 seconds, so you may need to use the 1-second rule if your puppy does not yet tolerate scritching. Here are two alternate versions of the 1-second rule:

A. Pet for up to 1 second, then back away entirely and pet for another second when she comes up to you.

B. Pay her for putting up with petting. For example:

  1. She initiates contact
  2. 1 second of petting
  3. Calmly treat while still petting (at, say, 3/4 second)
  4. Stop petting, move your hand away and/or take a few steps away
  5. Wait for her to reinitiate contact and repeat

The video below has several safety issues. We will discuss that in the forum. For now, watch this and think about the advice from above. You may have to turn off the sound to focus on the dogs. It’s pretty long so you can pick and choose. Do take a look at the very fearful dog at 1:53. You can play it in slow motion if you toggle the settings on the bottom right of the video.

Quality over quantity. I listed a lot of different characteristics to get your puppy used to with people, but I also want to make an important point.

Having 200 acquaintances is not as valuable as having 20 very good friends. While we do want your puppy to meet lots of people, if you are short on time and have to choose between meeting a lot of people and meeting a smaller number and really getting to know them, go for the second option.

Let’s say that you travel to the country of Xamabica for a year in one of two ways. Compare:

  1. You go to Xamabica in a large group from your country. You have been to many different restaurants, hotels, and taxis, so you have interacted with a 200 Xamabicans in the service industry from different parts of the country.
  2. You go to Xamabica with a friend who introduces you to a few friends in a small village. They introduce you to their families and you know about 20 people total from several generations.

In which scenario are you likely to:

  • have a good feeling about the people from Xamabica?
  • be interested in meeting more people from Xamabica?
  • understand personal interactions in Xamabica?
  • be able to communicate in Xamabican?

It’s clearly better for generalization to have both many deep friendships and lots of interactions with a variety of people. But time is short, so that may not be possible. If our dogs only have a tiny number of friends and many acquaintances, I think they end up with worse social skills than the other way around. So don’t get so busy checking off items on your list with acquaintances that you forget to make your dog some friends.

The take-home message is:

For social skills and a positive feeling toward humans, help your dog build friendships with a wide variety of people outside of your family. Meeting a variety of acquaintances along the way will help generalize this knowledge.

 

[/s2If]

Lesson 5: Pause to Practice

This practical work goes with Lessons 1-4. Be sure to read them first.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

NOTE on VIDEO:

I really like video because it gives me a chance to see where I can improve. Expect to me to sometimes post videos and then follow up with an explanation of how I could have done better. If you share your videos with the other students, please be ready for suggestions on how you can improve. Please be kind to one another with your feedback.

Try to catch yourself doing things ‘right’ in the videos, but it will probably not be perfect. If you share videos in the ABBA Facebook group, I recommend that you point out what went well and also be sure to note times when you could have done better, and explain how.

PRACTICE OVERVIEW

The PRACTICE section has multiple items, generally listed in the order that I recommend they should be done.

You may want to focus on different things with your puppy than what is listed here. I haven’t included all possible topics for a puppy to focus on, but my preference is to prioritize socialization and skills for life with humans over behavior that you can teach later (sit, down, heel, tricks, etc.).

PRACTICE (try to do within 1-1.5 weeks):

  1. Autowatch throughout the day. Mark the autowatch at least 30 times each day this week. That can easily be done by taking a handful of treats or puppy kibble with you on each potty walk.
  2. Mix it up! At least 10 of the times that you use a verbal marker this week, follow that up with a non-treat reinforcer, like a chance to chase you, a toy, or a particularly inviting smell. This can be for any behavior you like, including autowatch or housetraining.
  3. Film Yourself: Film a minute of doing the 5-second rule with you and your puppy. Watch it and notice the body language. If you learn to do something differently by watching the video, film it again and see if there’s more to learn.
  4. Film Yourself: After you and your dog have practiced autowatch until you both are comfortable with it, film a minute or two of a session, with a verbal marker. Mix it up by using at least 3 kinds of reinforcers during your session.  Can you tell what your puppy’s favorite reinforcer was? Did anything happen during the session that your puppy really didn’t like?
  5. Film a few minutes minutes of your puppy just being a puppy (playing, walking, relaxing). Watch it again and look for body language.
  6. Introduce your puppy to the concept of “Sprinkles” – check out the great article by Sally Hopkins. It’s an excellent way to practice being relaxed in the yard (or in a park). Gradually move farther away as your puppy enjoys the sprinkles, to help teach him to be comfortable being off by himself and prevent separation issues.

[/s2If]

Lesson 4: Training Autowatch, Taking Treats Gently, and Housetraining

The training skills in this lesson are:

  • Autowatch
  • Taking treats gently
  • Housetraining

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

Use a clicker or word to let your puppy know exactly which behavior you want. If you are new to clicker training, you can read about it in Chapter 2 of the book that I recommend with this course, the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual.

Any behavior that you pinpoint or “mark” with the clicker or a word earns a treat of some sort. It is information to your dog, taught by simply following the sound of the marker with the food, a toy, etc.

Warning! Muffle the clicker at first because your puppy may be scared of it. Do this by holding it to your stomach or into a pillow. Click, then treat a few times to check that your puppy is okay with the noise, and if that is okay, you can gradually stop muffling it.

I recommend using a clicker whenever you can for new behavior involving action and a verbal marker when it is inconvenient.

Autowatch: This activity is to teach your puppy to check in with you, especially when something changes in the environment. Throughout the day, when the puppy happens to make eye contact with you, mark with Yes or a clicker. Feed, move away and mark/treat again.

Do this at least once whenever something changes about the situation when you are with your puppy (leaving the house, coming back inside, bicycle appearing, someone coming home, just met another dog and you’re walking away, etc.) You can practice this going back and forth between rooms in your house.

Don’t try to get your puppy to make eye contact with a kissy noise, name, etc. Just reinforce eye contact when you get it. If you are having trouble getting opportunities to reinforce eye contact, show your puppy a treat, hold it straight out to your side, and wait. Then mark and feed the puppy the treat.

Taking Treats Gently: You get what you pay for, so don’t let go of the treat if the puppy is nibbling on you. You can trap the treat in your palm with your thumb and wait for licking, then release the treat.

Housetraining: Prevent accidents inside by taking the puppy out frequently, paying attention inside, and focus on reinforcing the puppy for going outside. Do this by saying a cue when you are sure your puppy is about to eliminate outside. I use “be quick” for pee and “hurry” for poo, so I don’t have to sound like I’m talking to a 2-year-old on a walk. Mark and treat just as your puppy finishes. You can read more about housetraining in Chapter 3 of the the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual.

If you need more information, here’s a nice housetraining video by Emily Larlham (Kikopup).

[/s2If]

Lesson 3: (Philosophy) Two-Way Communication

If we pay attention, there are a few ways that dogs and people can communicate easily.

Dog to Human:

  • Opinions/Emotions – “That scares me”
  • Request for behavior — “Can you open the door so I can go outside?”
  • Share Information — “There’s someone at the door”

Human to Dog:

  • Opinions/Emotions – “I like that”
  • Request for behavior – “Come”
  • Share Information – “I’m leaving”
  • Ask a Question – “Do you want to go outside?”

Some of these types of communication happen naturally and some have to be taught. Consistency is the key.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

Opinions/emotions

First let’s talk about how dogs communicate their opinions and emotions. It’s pretty much the same for most mammals, although there are some species differences and humans are probably more complicated. But the basic emotions of fear, anger, joy, etc. are felt in some way by both dogs and people.

We have these labels for the emotion, and I do use them, but I find it most useful to think in terms of what sort of change would make the emotion fade for this particular dog. The reason is because that’s really all you can do for your dog. You can’t talk things over, but you can change something in the environment to meet his needs. Or better yet, often you can teach him to do that for himself. More on that later in the course.

Here are some examples. Usually the more behaviors that you get, the more sure you can be about the dog’s emotional state.

“I want to get away from that” (running away, jumping up on owner’s legs, body crouched, tail lowered / tucked under belly, ears back, moving away, panting, shivering)

“I want that to go away” (barking, running forward and bouncing away again)

“I don’t like that” (barking, nipping at human hands, moving toward whoever/whatever did something)

“That’s mine!” (lowering head into food bowl, freeze, whites of eyes showing)

Watch this video for the two or three puppies who are showing fear of the pilates disk on the upper right. Notice that there is not enough room for the puppies to escape, so they are having a harder time getting used to the objects. This appears to be a positive experience for the rest of the puppies.

[vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/135894287″]

For more details on body language read through “Understanding Your Dog’s Communication” in the book that I recommend with this course, the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual.

Note! We will cover more about fear and other issues as we go along, but if you see that your puppy might be afraid or needs space from something, help him! Call him away and feed a treat. If he’s comfortable going a little closer, let him do that without letting him get too close. Just make sure it’s the puppy wanting to go back and not you leading the way.

Requests for Behavior or Permission

Dog to Human: Teach the dog that certain behavior from him gets certain behavior from you. Behavior in a certain context/situation is paired with consistent consequences.

You can do this by observing which behaviors the puppy tries and consistently reinforcing that behavior with the consequence he wants. So if he’s outside and barks at some point, you can open the door to have him come back inside. You can tell by the context that coming inside is what he wants. So he has a consistent way to ask you.

A more complicated way to do that is to pick a behavior you want him to do, train it, and then ask him to do it when you can tell he wants a particular consequence. This works better if the dog isn’t already doing the specific behavior you want in that situation. For example, you can train a Ring the Bell cue and whenever you see the puppy wants to come back inside, request Ring the Bell and reinforce him by letting him inside.

More examples of explicitly trained communication requesting our behavior – dog brings bowl for food, dog brings leash for walk, dog nuzzles hand for petting, dog looks at toy cupboard, dog holds chin on couch to be allowed up.

You may not always grant your dog’s requests every time, but it’s confusing to just ignore him, too. I have a hand signal that means “I heard you, but no.” It’s the same as my All Done cue, which is to show my palm to the dog and rotate my hand (as if showing there are no treats).

Human to Dog: This is normal ‘dog training’ and we will cover some of it in this course each week. For reading in the Ahimsa Dog Training Manual, check out “Teaching Reliable Behaviors.”

Share information

Dogs and humans can both learn that certain words, sounds, or actions predict something else. (For you dog geeks, out there, this is standard classical conditioning).

So for example, if your dog runs to the door barking, you probably know that someone is at the door. If you pick up your keys and put on your work shoes every day right before you leave for work, your dog will learn that the keys/shoes combination means he isn’t coming with you. I like to be clearer by teaching this sort of association on purpose.

For example, I say “I’ll be Back” when my dog, Peanut, is not coming with me. So if I’m getting ready to go and he’s on the couch deciding whether to get excited or not, I can say “I’ll be Back” and he can continue his nap. This is taught the same way that the accidental cues are taught – by repeatedly pairing the word with the event. By simply saying “I’ll be Back” just before I shut the door as I was leaving, he eventually learned that it means he’s not coming with me.

Other examples of actions/sounds that have meaning via this kind of association:

  • click (clicker sound means dog is about to get food/toy)
  • “Yes!” (similar marker predicting food/toy/reinforcer)
  • Good Night (“I’m going to sleep and won’t be paying attention to you any more”)
  • All Done (“no treats/petting/attention/play” – use as “I heard you, but the request has been denied”)
  • Ready? (“you’re coming with me”)
  • There’s a Dog (“another dog is coming”)
  • Relax (“I’m about to massage you in a relaxing way” – great ‘off switch’)

Ask a Question

Humans can also ask dogs specific questions, like “what do you want?” Dogs could probably ask us, too, but I’m not as sure about that.

“Which one do you want?”

Use reinforcer sampling. Just have multiple options available and see which option the dog takes (multiple kinds of treats, toys, etc.) Test this under normal circumstances when your puppy is calm. Then if his food preferences change, for example, you know there’s something intensely emotional happening, from excitement to distress. Look at the rest of the body to know what kind of emotion it is.

“Do you like this?”

5-second rule. Look at body language to see if your puppy wants to be petted (let her approach you) and then stop after no more than 5 seconds. Most puppies would prefer that you stop after a shorter time, like 1 or 3 seconds, so don’t just take the full 5 seconds every time. After stopping, wait for another clear signal that the puppy wants more petting. Pet for fewer seconds if you are unsure the puppy likes it.

“Which way do you want to go?”

Sometimes you will have your puppy go the way you want to go, but sometimes the puppy can choose. If you want to see which way your puppy wants to walk, you can either just wait or you can move in a few different directions to see which way he goes most eagerly. I use this when I think the puppy may be afraid of something.

[/s2If]

Lesson 2: (Philosophy) Empowerment and the Perfect Puppy

What vision do you have for your dog? What does he or she need to do to be “perfect” for you? How can you go beyond perfect? This lesson discusses the concept of empowered animal care.

[s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

To view this lesson, please purchase this course or log in if you have already purchased it.[/s2If]

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_course_003_ep)]

THE PERFECT DOG

_MG_4546“What do you want your dog to do?” is a mantra among force-free trainers. When clients come to us with behavior that they want to get rid of, we rephrase the question in this positive form. If we know what we want the dog to do, we can reinforce that behavior and get that happening instead of what we don’t like. If we don’t like pulling, we can reinforce heeling or loose leash walking. If we don’t like jumping up, we can reinforce four paws on the floor.

That’s all well and good, but I would like to see us all take that to another level. I would like to see us ponder how we can merge our ways of life instead of only imposing our way onto the dogs, however kindly. For example, while we can certainly use reward-based training to motivate our dogs to want to walk right beside us on every walk, in a perfect heeling position, is that the right thing to do?

Teaching ‘heel on every walk’ by using positive reinforcement is certainly way better than getting that perfect heel through corrections. It’s kinder to the dog and adding unnecessary physical and emotional stress can lead to issues like poor socialization, biting the handler, and back pain. The latter even applies to the person giving the correction, because of the physical power required.

But is it even a good idea to have your dog heeling all the time on your walk, even with positive training? Having the ability to cue a heel is one thing, so you can get past distractions that are just too much for the dog if he were free to roam. But aside from very specific moments, the dog should be allowed and even encouraged to explore — off leash when it is safe. and otherwise on a loose leash. In the next lesson, I will cover the BAT leash skills, which are a way to help create a more ‘off leash’ experience when on leash.

In my opinion, if the dog is in a continuous state of working to get a treat during his walk, he’s missing out. He’s focused on earning a reinforcer, meeting an immediate need/want stimulated by the training session. When a dog is essentially addicted to heeling or other behavior for us, he is distracted from normal dog behavior that might serve his long term needs better. He is missing opportunities to learn about or interact with his environment. This is especially problematic when done with puppies.

It’s also important to focus on teaching and facilitating relaxation, down-time. Don’t just wind them up with a toy and then suddenly stop. After training or play, follow up with a chance to relax. Practice makes perfect.

So the perfect dog? For me, that is a dog who:

  • communicates well with other dogs, people, and animals
  • is comfortable with his environment and copes well with any occasional stress
  • understands and cooperates with people when needed

I believe that this sort of thing is what we should be aiming for when we ‘train’ dogs. A training-addict that knows 200 tricks or a perfect heel may be fun for us, but have we really taken care of his needs as a dog when he can’t relax or interact well with his own species?

PHILOSOPHY OF EMPOWERMENT

_MG_2698 2By empowerment, I mean that the puppy learns that his behavior is effective in meeting his needs. So it doesn’t mean we have a dictator with an owner jumping to fulfill the dog’s every wish, but rather a dog who knows how to get what he needs in ways that are comfortable for the humans and other animals in his world.

This puppy class is in the School of BAT because Behavior Adjustment Training has the same philosophy of empowerment. Letting your dog do more for himself can build confidence and allow you to teach appropriate behavior at the same time. If your puppy wants or needs something, and it’s safe for him to have it, he can learn to get it by doing behavior that helps him fit in with your family.

But there are also things we just need to do TO dogs, like brushing, injections, etc. These are not naturally motivating. Your dog is not likely to ever ask you to trim his nails unless there’s something in it for him besides for short nails. The comfort of the shorter nails is too far removed from the process of nail trimming.

Like the animals in the best zoos and aquariums, dogs can be active participants in grooming and vet care. You could just add some motivation to put up with these things, like touching his paw and then giving him a treat, but you can take that to another level to help make it less stressful for your dog. Teach specific behavior that gives him more control over the process, like when to start and stop. In the Cooperation lesson in this class, we will train with food, toys, etc. to motivate the dog to help us take better care of him.

As an example of getting dogs to cooperate in their care instead of only tolerating it, check out this video/commercial by Orapup:

You don’t have to watch that video all the way through, just watch how the dogs are actively engaged in their own care. I find it very clever because it automatically motivates the behavior we want, no training involved. Training isn’t always the answer. If there’s an easy option that also gets your dog to happily cooperate, do it!

Here’s an example of the dog doing her own grooming, which did require some training from her caretaker, Jeanie Burton. But I love that it’s all completely done by the dog!

Take time to train some other behavior for dogs actively cooperate with vet care and grooming done to them. It’s worth it for a lifetime of low-stress care.

[/s2If]

Feature Film 1:
“Talk With Me! Simple Steps for 2-Way Understanding Between Dogs and People”

[php] // ****** GRISHA: For each new CCAP, add to function ShowListOfPurchasedProducts() inside the file “includes-custom.php” so they show up on “My Account” page [/php][PHP]buyNowButton(“film_001_twm”)[/PHP][s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_ccap_film_001_twm)]

Thank you for purchasing this Feature Film
[php]
// $provider values are LivestreamLive, LivestreamRecorded, Vimeo
// LivestreamLive requires $codeEvent
// LivestreamRecorded requires $codeEvent and $codeRecording
// Vimeo requires $codeRecording
$provider=”Vimeo”;
$codeRecording=”113866931″;
QandAiFrame($provider, “”,$codeRecording)
[/php]

[/s2If]Many people talk TO their dogs, but not with them. Did you know that you can ask your dog questions and get answers back? It’s not telepathy; it just takes an understanding of body language, animal learning, consistency, and creativity.
[s2If is_user_not_logged_in()]If you have already purchased this video, please log in with the user info you created.[/s2If]

  • Video #1 in the BAT 2.0 Empowered Animals Series (Buy the set)
  • Presented by: Grisha Stewart MA, CPDT-KA, KPACTP
  • Instant streaming on your computer or mobile device (not a download – physical DVD sold separately)
  • Watch as many times as you want!
  • Run time: 1 hr 37 mins
  • Produced by TawzerDog in 2014 for home viewers (not just a filmed seminar)
  • Includes a PDF with slides to go along with the video

Actively focusing on communication between humans and dogs allows us to live more peacefully with our canine family members. With some simple changes in how you interact with your dog, you can more thoroughly understand his needs and also help him understand and respond to yours, too.

This thought-provoking Feature Film will change your relationship with your dog. The information is appropriate for anyone who interacts with dogs on a personal or professional level.

[php]
$url=”http://”.$_SERVER[‘HTTP_HOST’].$_SERVER[‘REQUEST_URI’];
$ccap = “film_001_twm”;
$desc = “Feature Film – Talk With Me!”;
$price = “25”;
$productType = “featureFilms”;
CheckProductAccess($ccap, $desc, $price, $url, $productType)
[/php]

(Video 31) Quick Intro to BAT 2.0

Tired of a barking dog? Socializing a puppy? If you want your dog to be calm around other dogs, you can help your dog practice being calm. In this 11-minute video, I explain Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT), which I developed to reduce aggression, frustration and fear in dogs and other animals.
Continue reading (Video 31) Quick Intro to BAT 2.0

BAT = Brilliant + Awesome + Tremendous!

Guest post from Margaret Hicks and Tara Dong of Pacific Assistance Dogs

Behaviour Adjustment Training it may be, but Brilliant+Awesome+Tremendous is what I want to answer whenever a new puppy-raiser asks what BAT stands for.

PADS (Pacific Assistance Dogs Society) raises and trains highly skilled Assistance Dogs for those with physical disabilities or who are deaf/hard-of-hearing. In addition, we train Canine Assisted Intervention (CAI) Dogs for placement in intervention settings with community professionals such as RCMP, counselors, therapists and teachers. It goes without saying that our dogs—who will eventually accompany their partners everywhere they go—must be confident, and well in control of their behaviour and emotions.

Some think that assistance dogs are a “super breed” that never bark, bounce or really even breathe… the reality is a success rate of roughly 50% (industry wide). This means 50% of our dogs are too “enthusiastic”, or too fearful, or too calm/passive, or have health issues) to be successful as working dogs.

As a member of Assistance Dogs International, our staff and trainers are exposed to some of the best knowledge and trainers in the industry. Collaboration is rich and the sharing of knowledge and experience is abundant. So it was the most fortuitous discovery when one day, our training manager stumbled upon BAT on YouTube while searching for something that demonstrated a technique she’d seen at a recent conference. Her reaction was instant: “This is BRILLIANT!”

As a result, when our school offered to host the 2013 ADI trainers conference, it was a natural fit to invite Grisha Stewart. She arranged for Joey Iversen to conduct a workshop for conference attendees as well as our own volunteers. It took our initial excitement and firmly grounded it into our program.

Now, we’ve integrated BAT into our volunteer puppy-raising program. These volunteers range from stay-at-home moms and retirees to singles living in downtown skyscrapers — they raise our young pups for roughly 14-16 months, attending weekly puppy classes, socializing and teaching them foundational skills.

While BAT is an amazing tool to empower reactive dogs that have existing issues, we have integrated as a foundational skill for our program. We have the privilege many do not in that we have our pups from birth, so are able to use BAT as a foundational tool to allow our volunteers to be successful and empower our dogs to build trust in their handler and confidence in their environment as they grow.

To illustrate the evolution that has taken place we introduce you to 3 of our dogs, pre-BAT “Ruby”, BAT-1.0 “Merlot” and our latest BAT 2.0 pup “Seven”.

Ruby | 2007

A sweet black lab named Ruby entered our program about 8 years ago (pre BAT). She was a push button dog, you showed her, she learned it. You asked for it she did it. Her willingness and smarts were rockstar material. She was biddable and silly, intelligent and willing. But what we couldn’t seem to give her was confidence. She crumbled under the pressures of public places, stress-forging on leash, losing control of her bladder when startled by strangers and shutting down and digging in her heels when we’d attempt to help her overcome fear with lures and rewards. Belugas to bearded men, waterfalls to car alarms, Ruby was a worrier. Her fears didn’t start out big, at first they were just a sideways look. But looking back knowing what I know now, I wonder who she would have become if those initial sideways looks had been given the time and space to build confidence. At nine months she was released from the program for generalized suspicion. A heartbreaking decision, she was a dog with so much ability and who was otherwise so well suited for a working career.

Merlot | 2013

Fast forward a few years, and Merlot, another black lab arrives. She’s an enthusiastic girl with a natural off switch, equally happy laying at your feet for hours on end or outrunning every dog at the park. In public she pads along, shuffling her feet like an old soul. She accompanies her raisers everywhere—whether it’s the mall, fireworks, concerts and sporting events. Like Ruby, she encounters things that cause her to pause, but her raisers are now familiar with BAT and see the subtle changes in her body language in new environments — a hesitation — her ears flattening slightly or and her “old man shuffle” turning into a bouncy prance. One such outing was to the PNE, an exhibition in Vancouver, BC with lots of large farm animals, crowds, a midway and strange sights and smells. There in the barns she met “Big Bob” a 3500lb bull. As she approached he stormed up to the edge of his pen snorting at her in protest. Merlot hit the opposite end of her leash, tail tucked, visibly shaken.

It was time for BAT. This was a girl at her most fearful. She was shut down, tail tucked, feet firmly planted, eyes fixed on “Big Bob” and unwilling to take her eyes away even for food. Her handler moved towards her gently and waited for any indication she was calming. Within a few moments she dropped her ears and turned her head. They moved away. She took in the environment. Approached. Retreated. Within 10 minutes Merlot was nose to nose with Bob. It all happened in the quiet and calm…

As the months went on, there would often be things that would give Merlot reason to pause. A statue, a piece of heavy equipment, even a particularly high frequency hair dryer at a salon … each time the BAT sessions would get shorter. Today she’s a self-assured two-year old that moderates her own worries and concerns with ease and rarely needs assistance to do so.

Seven | 2014

This spunky little yellow Labrador, from our “Star Trek” litter is named for the character Seven of Nine (though rumour has it that it’s also because she channels the energy of 7 puppies in one tiny body). Very early Seven showed us that what she lacked in size, she made up for in spunk. Even at 4 weeks old she was smart and feisty and took great pleasure in using her sibling’s tails as tug toys and zooming with glee. A leash was a force to be reckoned with and her off switch was non-existent. Seven is naturally a high arousal (lunging/barking) pup, particularly around other dogs and cats…or food or leaves or people or anything that was exciting to her in the moment. She would wake at 7:30 in the morning and often not close her eyes for more than a minute or two until 10pm at night.

And then BAT began to “happen”. Nothing prepared us for the remarkable power it would have in this young girl. We began using BAT with her off and on at roughly 6 weeks old (when she was still in the whelping home and obsessing over the resident cat). But in her first two weeks of puppy-raising she’s gone from a roughly 25′ threshold around other animals to being calm, cool and collected within 2 feet of stimuli at just 10 weeks old. This remarkable transformation in her self- regulation seems to have extended into all aspects of her training.

Why does this matter so much?

Our Volunteers | High-energy/arousal dogs are exhausting, challenging puppies, so providing volunteer raisers with positive, effective solutions and tools is essential. Clicker training will reward desirable behaviour, but more often than not our raisers would say “This puppy gives me nothing to click” – BAT resolved that. Even when there was opportunity to click, the timing was challenging for a lot of new raisers. BAT gives the dogs (and their people) the tools they need to shine and to experience success at a very young age; simple, easy to understand and use tools. This creates calm not just in the puppy, but their handler as well.

Our clients / We walk a tightrope in breeding dogs, we want dogs with a good off switch but enough drive that they want to work. More often than not we get dogs that are so much drive that they can’t shut off or so soft that they are fearful or lack persistence and working drive. BAT helps both. It increases our margins of success. With a 2-3 year wait list that recently had to be closed to application, every dog matters. Increasing our success rates by even one dog a year means that one less client is waiting for life-changing independence.

We are in absolute awe of the work that Grisha’s done and so grateful to both her and Joey for their willingness to share knowledge and empowering not only our organization, but our dogs like Seven and Merlot to move more confidently towards those that are patiently waiting for the day they’ll receive their leashes.

 

The Wastebasket Challenge (or “Changing a Habit is Hard!”)

Guest post by Joey Iversen, BAT seminar presenter

Original location - under the sink
Original location – under the sink

I recently moved to a new house because it is much better for my senior dog, Pirate. In setting up the kitchen, I started with the garbage in a cardboard box under the sink. It’s a logical spot. In my search for a permanent waste bin for the spot, I couldn’t find one that fit.

So I found a wastebasket that fit in one of the pantries in the kitchen, instead of having the trash under the sink.

Even though I have only been in my new house for a couple weeks, after moving the wastebasket I quickly realized I was locked into a habit that was so powerful, the only prompt I had to take a piece of trash to the pantry to dispose of was opening the cupboard under the sink to see the empty space. That is, I couldn’t remember to take the trash to the pantry until I had run through the old behavior of taking the trash to the kitchen and opening the cupboard under the sink. Only then could I change my behavior.

IMG_1977
The Pantry

This went on for the next 5 days. I was experiencing increased frustration with each “duh” moment of trying an outdated behavior that didn’t work. My behavior challenges and frustration in the wastebasket location did not involve any fear or lack of safety as most of the client dogs I work with on behavior change. I thought a lot about how significantly increased my distress would be if it did involve fear.

That week, as I worked with clients and their dog with reactive responses to situations, I was keenly reminded of my personal experience with creating a new response and the intense challenge I am having with a simple relocation of a wastebasket.

The more I thought about my challenge in changing behavior I considered the immense challenge our dogs who have resorted to rehearsed aggressive behavior responses to situations that they find scary, stressful or confusing.

I had occasionally made a bit of progress that week, where I would catch myself before opening the cupboard but only if I was thinking about throwing something away. If I were thinking of what I would be doing next or pondering something else I would immediately go back to my old habit. I kept having to open the cupboard before I realized I was at the wrong spot. I was surprised at how irritating this cycle was becoming.

I decided to use TAGteach to get out of the sequence of going to the cupboard under the sink to recall the wastebasket is in the panty. The process of deciding what behavior to tag gave me some interesting insights. Recalling a session in a tennis lesson where my coach and I worked through finding the best tag point with the help of Theresa Mckeon.

In my kitchen, I used the same strategy Theresa helped us work through with tennis to find a reinforcable tag point for the wastebasket dilemma.

A tag point is the answer the question “what move/action causes the desired position, choice, or muscle movement”? I had to change an action before I started in the direction of the cupboard under the sink.

I tried a couple different tag points until I realized I needed to get much further back in the sequence. I ended up with the tag point of “say pantry.”

In TAGteach language:

  • The instructions are: When you pick up an item to throw away (trigger), before moving “say pantry”
  • The tag point is: Say Pantry
IMG_2005
Tagulator

Each time I successfully do the tag point, I pull down a bead using the “tagulator” shown here. I can measure success by the number of beads I have pulled in a day. Adding a tag point has sped up my behavior change in efficient trash dispensing. (Ok, I didn’t collect data so I don’t really know the degree of change). As well there is less frustration every time I don’t go through the extra steps of going first to the sink.

What does this have to do with dogs and behavior and BAT?” you might wonder. It has broadened my observation of where might I need to begin to focus in setting up a situation to promote a new behavior response to a rehearsed behavior response to a trigger. Experiencing at what point I needed new thinking in order to make a change in my pattern was enlightening as it was much further back in the sequence than I would have thought.

In BAT, especially BAT 2.0, we emphasize setting up the environment with adequate distance from the trigger and interesting landscape for exploring (and much more). That distance is often much more than people would expect. But closer in, the dog is already headed to the cabinet under the sink, so to speak, and we need to be working at a distance where the dog is really comfortable and not locked into his old habitual behavior.

As I evaluate current and future client dogs and where I start in the sequence, I will be assessing and then looking further back. From my personal experience, I am amazed at how many steps back I needed to go to actually set up for the desired response.

IMG_2004
Tagulator the pantry

Follow-Up. Here’s an interesting insight that I’ve noted over these last two days since first writing my experience. My frustration is even more reduced since adding the tag point. My success rate, i.e., the number of times I go to the panty without first heading to the sink has greatly improved.

Yeah! The most interesting is that my emotional response to a “duh wrong spot” event is to giggle. Really! Its now easy to find humor in that ‘oops’ empowered by the plan I have in place for change, the success I have been experiencing and I feel in control of the outcome. This empowerment, success and control are what I deeply desire to bring to both the clients and their dogs with whom I have the honor to work.

I’m well on my way to unconscious competence. Cheers!

We are what we repeatedly do.

Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit.

-Aristotle

Technical Aspects of BAT Article in the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Chronicle

cover-2014-summerWant to know why BAT works in a more technical way?

Check out the second half of the BAT article that appeared in the Summer issue of the APDT Chronicle of the Dog. Click to read the article as a PDF. To learn about the APDT Chronicle or to access the full issue if you are a member, click here.

p.s. If you love this technical dog stuff, check out the BAT for Geeks streaming webinar, available for download now through our online store.

Check out the video below to see how BAT is done:

[s2If current_user_can(access_s2member_level2)][vc_video link=”https://vimeo.com/121320538″][/s2If][s2If current_user_cannot(access_s2member_level2)]

[/s2If]

How Do I Learn More? This site has several resources. The new BAT 2.0 book, full length videos, and/or online courses are very useful, or you can work with a Certified BAT Instructor (CBATI) – many also do training sessions via video chat. I also teach live and recorded seminars and we ship fabulous custom-made long leashes worldwide.

When and How to Use BAT in Puppy Class

Written by Carly Loyer, CBATI

Any trainer that’s taught puppy classes has seen what a broad range of confidence and sociability 8 week old puppies can display, from the happy-go-lucky, “everyone’s my VERY best friend and we should all chew on each other” bruisers, to the puppies who seem traumatized by the hint that another dog or person might interact with them. Those wallflower puppies are in dire need of socialization and confidence building, but they are also at the highest risk for a long-term setback if a negative experience occurs. Continue reading When and How to Use BAT in Puppy Class

Magazine Articles about BAT 2.0

COTD-2014COTD-2014Learn about BAT 2.0 in the Spring 2014 issue of the APDT Chronicle of the Dog and in the popular UK Magazine, Dogs Today. Check them out!

Click to download the BAT 2.0 article in the APDT Chronicle (APDT members also can get the full magazine through the APDT site or in your mailbox).

The APDT article is part of a 2-part series. The first article was how to do BAT 2.0 and the second article looks under the hood to look at BAT 2.0 through a technical lens. Be ready to geek out!

Dogs-Today-cover

Here’s the cover of the March 2014 Dogs Today magazine. Click the image to go to the magazine’s website.

Dogs Today is available in stores in the UK and also via iPad. If you aren’t from the UK, I’d still recommend checking it out. It may give you an interesting international view of the ethical dog world.

Peanut’s Got a Girlfriend!

Here’s an update on where we are at with Peanut’s dog issues. I started focusing on them late last fall and have done about 7 set-ups since then. I think I’ve done about 4 or 5 set-ups over the years, mostly just to get the videos.

Since we moved to Alaska, Peanut had been barking at dogs at about 30-40 feet away with bigger reactions toward off-leash dogs that came up to him: growling with his fur and tail up. He air-snapped one time with a dog that was really in his face, but otherwise has only done the growling. I didn’t work on this for his first 11 years because most of the time that he encountered dogs, I could keep him in working mode so he didn’t have any big reactions. But now I’m not the only one walking him – my fiancee walks Peanut when I travel. I also imagine that even when I micromanaged him, Peanut would still experience some stress and a lack of control. I’d rather he were able to handle this on his own, especially since I am not always home to manage him. Besides, I had a new version of BAT to work out!

BAT 2.0 and BAT 1.0: What’s Different?

One of the most important aspects of a humane training protocol is that it is minimally intrusive. One way to think of minimally intrusive is that the animal has maximal control over significant events. BAT 2.0 shifts forward to focus even more on allowing the dog to have control of the process within a safe setting. As Dr. Susan Friedman wrote, “The degree to which a behavior reduction procedure preserves learner control is essential to developing a standard of humane, effective practice.”

Here’s an example of a video by Canadian dog trainer Jennie Murphy, CBATI, CGN, DN-FSG that demonstrates a change in BAT from 1.0 to 2.0: we make sure to let the dog choose where to go, as long as that movement wouldn’t put the dog in too stressful of a place.

My first book, Behavior Adjustment Training, came out in 2010. My third book, BAT 2.0 came out in 2016. I developed BAT primarily for the rehabilitation of reactivity with dogs caused by fear, frustration, or anger. In the first book and in my videos, handlers were taught to observe and mark certain behavior and/or body language and to reinforce that behavior by moving away from the Scary Monster and (sometimes) add “bonus rewards” of food, toys, etc.

While the core philosophy of BAT is still the same, BAT is no longer primarily a procedure in which the trainer marks and reinforces social behavior. BAT is now more naturalistic and the trainer’s main task is to arrange the situation to let the dog learn in a way that is similar to how well socialized dogs learned about other dogs, people, and other stimuli as puppies.

We do have a BAT 2.0 procedure called Mark and Move that reinforces social behavior with distance plus tangible reinforcers in certain situations, so some parts of it look a little bit like BAT 1.0. However, and this is important, even with Mark and Move, we do not lead the dog directly toward the trigger as we did in BAT 1.0.

In the first book, I mentioned that BAT is, and will always be, a work in progress, based on the best information available at the time. I have fine-tuned BAT over the years and I have decided that it’s time to officially announce some changes that simplify the process and make it even less stressful and more pleasant for the dogs.

Please click here to get started learning about BAT 2.0, or look for one of our upcoming seminars or online learning opportunities.

NOTE: All articles published before January 2014 are about the older (1.0) version of BAT.

Three main aspects of the original BAT still form the foundation of the new BAT:

  1. Give the dog control over their exposure to the trigger
  2. Continually assess stress and strive to reduce it
  3. Use management tools to lower stress outside of training to reduce setbacks

Here are some of the differences:

BAT 2.0 BAT in 2010 (DVD & Book)
  1. Naturally occurring reinforcers (antecedent arrangements, most reinforcers are naturally occurring, focus on respondent learning)
  2. Very dog-centered (follow the dog)
  3. Controllability due to interaction with trigger and movement in space
  4. Specific leash skills to keep handler out of the way
  5. Simpler: No stages, just a flow of how much we need to prompt
  1. Reinforcement provided by trainer (theorized walking away as R-)
  2. Moderately dog-centered (still followed the dog, but did more encouragement to approach)
  3. Controllability due to trainer marking and theoretically reinforcing behavior
  4. Minimal focus on handler leash skills 
  5. Specific Stages 1, 2, and 3, which took time to explain & learn

Here’s another video example, by Dutch trainer Liselot Boersma, PgDip CABW:

Please click here to get started learning about BAT 2.0, or look for one of our upcoming seminars or online learning opportunities (Books, streaming videos, DVDs, online courses, etc).

“Lunging Lucy” & “Growly Gus”

Guest post by Jody Epstein, CPDT-KA

Picture this: You and Polly are walking together in your neighborhood. She’s showing off just how good her leash skills are. And then . . . you see it. Down the street . . . another dog is coming. Suddenly your Perfect Polly does a full-blown Jekyll & Hyde, and suddenly she’s a Lunging Lucy! Barking, pulling, growling, snarling, and you’re at a loss for how to stop it. After the strange dog disappears around the corner, Lucy does a big shake, yawns and reverts to her Perfect-Polly self.

Continue reading “Lunging Lucy” & “Growly Gus”

What Makes BAT Work?

I’ve done some soul-searching about what makes Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) work and my hypothesis from a behavior analytical perspective is that BAT involves desensitization, naturally occurring negative reinforcement (R-), and both naturally occurring and trainer-delivered positive reinforcement (R+). I now believe that the change in emotional response in BAT 2.0 is largely due to the controllability of the situation and desensitization/respondent extinction, not behavior built up through reinforcement (although those are always intertwined).

But why am I not extremely concerned that it may have some flavor of R- when I am a force-free trainer? Actually, it did concern me, but it doesn’t any more, because I have thought it through.

I take humane training very seriously and adhere to the Progressive Reinforcement Manifesto written by trainer Emily Larlham, where it is of the utmost importance that life of the dogs we care for is arranged to minimize stress to maximize learning in a way that respects the dog.

I also love Susan Friedman’s Humane Hierarchy. [click here for an interview with Susan]. One of the main points of her guidelines is that trainers need to look closely at any use of aversive stimuli and watch out for things like negative reinforcement.

As Dr. Friedman told me herself, the naturally occurring reinforcement found in BAT is not really part of the humane hierarchy. It’s not an aversive delivered or orchestrated by the trainer, it’s totally different from an aversive like a prong collar or e-collar. It’s just real life to allow dogs to move around. Giving dogs a way to control their own distance to stimuli, to seek their own relief, is a GOOD thing. 

In short, that means we can all stop stressing about BAT on social media and get back to working with dogs.

Any negative reinforcement found in BAT is simply a consequence of giving the dog more control. It’s similar to the control dogs get in any positive technique, but better!

The only way for a protocol in which we allow dogs to notice their triggers to NOT have any R- is to take away their control. That’s not humane.

In BAT, moving away should really be ‘moving on,’  not necessarily avoidance. Moving on after engaging with the trigger can just be satiation, they have had enough contact and are ready for something else. If you are getting complete avoidance of the trigger, you’re doing something wrong; that’s not BAT. We should be working at the level of curiosity, so the movement away is only because the curiosity has been satisfied. Controllability is a good thing and having it around their triggers is especially good. If you do BAT right, most of the movement done after looking at the trigger should be just due to the dog being ‘done’ looking. They are moving on, not escaping.

I think it is important to put ego aside and really assess what people say to see if it holds any truth, and then use that to improve the way I teach dogs. Here’s what I know at this point in time. 1. Allowing the dog to behave in a way that helps them feel more comfortable (naturally occurring R-) is not the same as applying an aversive stimulus and removing it when the dog does what you want (R-) and 2. we do not yet have any techniques that avoid this aversive (the other dog), so allowing the dog to move away whenever he wants is a humane choice.

There are no unnecessary aversive stimuli in BAT, in stark contrast to the kind of R- techniques that use choke chains or electronic collars. The aversive aspect is just the decoy, at a level of engagement that the dog controls. This is less aversive than many techniques, if you really look at the lack of controllability by the dog, and no worse than the best ones out there. The dog has a huge amount of control over the BAT process. For a particular dog, you may have other tools you try before BAT, but a good trainer can always use more force-free techniques.

Continue reading What Makes BAT Work?

BAT Tip: Training should look like the dog is off leash

BAT should ideally look and feel like the dog is off leash, except that you are keeping things at enough of a distance that your dog can’t accidentally go so close that he gets scared. The dog is the gas and you are the brakes.

Generally speaking, we avoid walking the dog toward the trigger. Our movements should be in a neutral direction or away from the trigger. You might very occasionally ask your dog, “hey, do you want to go this way?” with your body language, but pay close attention to the answer. If your dog is hesitant or doesn’t want to go, that’s absolutely his choice.

Film your session so you can watch to see if there are ways to help your dog feel more free during the training.

The level of stress should be kind of like a puppy play time with two dogs that enjoy each other’s company. In a play time, sometimes one accidentally gets too close, but the other can give a cut-off signal and move away, or the other guy does.

Dogs learn this communication naturally through negative reinforcement (the dog giving the cut off signal gets a break) and positive reinforcement (the dog allowing the other dog to have a break gets rewarded by resuming the interaction) in puppy classes and play times. Puppy play times need to be set up to be safe, so they can learn to be more and more confident.

But even with that, puppies are learning through negative reinforcement in your puppy class. Don’t worry. That’s naturally occurring reinforcement, not kind of negative reinforcement that we definitely want to avoid, like leaning toward the dog to get a sit or pinching their ears to get them to take hold of a fetch dummy. You aren’t adding any aversive stimuli beyond what’s already out there, and you’ve set it up to be as safe as possible – it’s a natural learning process about how the world works.

When working with fear or aggression, BAT is very similar to the early socialization for puppies. In both, we use some treats when necessary, but not too many, because the dog can learn more from the situation itself than from us. One major difference is that when we are doing BAT with a dog who is afraid, we can’t allow the dog to run up and get into trouble, so we slow them down at a distance to let them engage with the trigger from a (mentally & physically) safe spot.

BAT gives the animal a chance to learn and practice communication. This allows them to desensitize to the trigger and also change their emotional response.

Over time, they gradually get closer and closer to other dogs, people, etc. and start to get positive reinforcement from the social interaction. That’s why it’s important to do multiple sessions with the same decoy, if you can, so the dogs can end up engaging in a friendly social way (which may just be exploring the same smells together, not wrestling, etc.). That’s true for issues with people as well.

If this isn’t what your sessions feel like, focus on learning how to handle a long line. Click here for a PDf with some tips.

New Video: Training Up Close

I just made a short video demonstrating BAT for dog-to-dog issues with my dog, Peanut. In this session, we work up close, which is the part of training that has the most risk.

Click here to check out the video on this site and learn more about BAT. I have also posted a Facebook post about this below, so you can comment on it there.

8 BAT Myths: suggested revisions for Clinical Behavioral Medicine

In her newly released book, Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Cats and Dogs, Dr. Karen Overall mentions Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) as a rehabilitation tool for fear in dogs. Unfortunately, the protocol that Overall described as BAT was similar to BAT in some aspects, but nothing like BAT in the parts that matter. I wish I had been consulted before publication.

I have contacted Dr. Overall in the hope that she will correct her errors in the next revision. In the meantime, I have written this article to address eight of the myths about BAT in that book. Overall’s book addresses BAT for fear, but BAT is also useful for frustration, aggression not based on fear, and early socialization. I focus on BAT for fear in this article and limit the discussion to dogs, although BAT can be used with many species. I also focus on the standard set-up version of BAT, which is done without food, but BAT has many forms. I use the feminine pronoun “she” for the dog instead of the awkward “he or she.”

MYTH #1: BAT is just like CAT.

TRUTH: CAT is only one of the many inspirations for BAT.

In Overall’s book, BAT and Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) are in the same section and are described as being basically the same protocol. I think it’s important that everyone understands that BAT is not CAT 2.0. BAT is no more similar to CAT than it is to clicker training or Control Unleashed™. There are similarities between BAT and CAT in that they both use an increase in distance from the triggering stimulus (“trigger”) as a reinforcer, but there are also some subtle and vast differences, as you will see below.

Although Overall does note some of the important differences with CAT, it’s unfortunate that they are lumped together, because they are not the same in spirit or practice. The tendency for critics to lump CAT with BAT without thinking probably comes from the unfortunate naming similarity. If you take time to look beyond the acronyms, you will see that BAT is a modern, dog-centered training technique worth adding to your training toolbox.

MYTH #2: BAT is too trendy and not really new.

TRUTH: BAT is popular because it works. Empowerment protocols are the new face of humane animal training.

The book refers to BAT as a “trendy” technique, which seems to imply that BAT’s current popularity among trainers and pet owners is a problem. Calling something “trendy” is a way to justify dismissing something new for which we are not ready. In science, we don’t do things just because they have always been done that way. Conscientious trainers and behaviorists look for more effective, less stressful, less invasive techniques in which the animal has more control.

Not doing something because it’s trendy is like not learning how to use a computer because everyone else is doing it. It’s a common way to justify things as being too trendy, though: you do still here that argument when old-school trainers refer to clicker training, for example.

BAT should not be dismissed as being the same as what we have done before. People are learning to do BAT because empowerment works and is fundamentally different from how we have been training in the canine world. We are behind science in this one, as Applied Behavior Analysis has long since focused on operant protocols to change the emotional response of a learner. With dog training, we have grabbed onto associating the trigger with food and stuck with that, because that was our first major push into rehabilitation through positive means.

BAT is a systematic desensitization technique, but it is inaccurate to write that it is “nothing more than routine desensitization and counter-conditioning (CC/DS).” For one thing, it is probably not classical counterconditioning because we are not pairing two stimuli. There is classical conditioning, of course, because that is always happening. It is in the form of desensitization.

BAT is a desensitization protocol based on empowerment, where the dog has almost complete control over the process. The control exercised by the handler is only in the form of making changes to reduce stress and ensure safety. BAT adds the feature of ‘controllability’ to the situation. Controllability directly factors in to expression and experience of anxiety—this isn’t inherent in standard CC/DS protocols in dog training.

An internal locus of control is a primary reinforcer and most training only gives the dog a token amount of control of their real environment. Through BAT, the handler learns what the dog is “saying” and honors that. While negative reinforcement (R-) probably plays a role, the dog’s control over the process is what helps the desensitization ‘stick’ (i.e. limits spontaneous recovery). This use of R- is not unethical and I will address that more below.

MYTH #3: People criticizing BAT are familiar with the protocol.

TRUTH: Most criticisms of BAT involve describing BAT incorrectly and then criticizing that incorrect version of BAT.

It’s best to see for yourself. Here is another video of BAT with clips from multiple dogs. I think watching it will help you better understand the rest of this article.


MYTH #4: BAT is just CC/DS as we have always done it.

TRUTH: BAT is a systematic desensitization protocol but it is also operant conditioning with real-life reinforcers. It is an improvement beyond standard ways to do CC/DS for social issues, because it has more empowerment for the dog and fewer distractions.

I developed BAT because I wanted something that would create a more profound change in my dog’s behavior and quality of life than the standard open bar / closed bar version of CC/DS (dog sees trigger –> gets treats) and other operant treat-based versions. I feel that while pairing the trigger with good things is far, far preferable to using corrections and force, it is still actually invasive in the sense of removing control and not allowing the dog to really process the situation.

Food can certainly be helpful to relax your dog, and I use it whenever it’s necessary (small spaces, surprises on walks, etc.). Unfortunately, food, handler interaction, or other high-valued items used in most CC/DS protocols also draw too much of the dog’s attention, limiting how much information the dog takes in. Real-world triggers are usually intramodal compound stimuli, i.e., they are made up of stimuli from different sensory modalities. Pairing the category of “all children” or “all dogs” with food in real life is much more challenging than simply associating the sound of Pavlov’s bell with meat powder in a laboratory.

Even with a positive association with some salient aspects of the trigger, the dog may still react to other aspects, because of overshadowing and other factors. In experiments with pigeons responding to intramodal compound stimuli, the reinforcer used in the experiment determined which element of the stimulus received more attention from the pigeon (see “intramodal studies” in this article). In particular, the use of food or other high-value items may determine which elements of the trigger the dog notices and remembers. An incomplete understanding of the trigger may lead to a plateau in training where the dog is only ‘fine’ as long as she is focused on the handler.

In contrast, people who have turned to BAT often report that their dog is now “a different dog” who interacts with dogs or people like they have always dreamed their dog would do. I recommend food-based CC/DS protocols for sound sensitivity and other applications with simple triggers and as a management strategy for other situations. Even then, whenever you can do an operant protocol that brings classical conditioning along for the ride, that’s the better choice. For most social situations, physical locations, and compound triggers, I use BAT, because it allows the dog to fully perceive the trigger with fewer distractions.

I have drawn from many resources to create BAT as a humane way to give the animal even more control and awareness than CC/DS. Individual cases are complicated and you can combine BAT with standard food-based CC/DS and clicker training, as needed. Whatever techniques you use, don’t forget about empowerment: giving the animal more control over the process (as in BAT) leads to more complete rehabilitation. Empowerment goes beyond simply using operant techniques. Whenever possible, you should take a functional approach that involves choosing a reinforcer that is appropriate in that situation.

For body handling issues (grooming, vet procedures, etc.), dogs should be taught in ways that allow them to communicate when to start and stop the procedures, as is done in many zoo settings and with Chirag Patel’s work for companion animal husbandry. An example would be teaching a dog to rest her chin on a target during brushing. She gets treats for being brushed, but can remove her chin and stop the procedure at any time. Allowing her to manage her own stress level is less invasive than simply pairing brushing with treats. I call the behavior the dog does to signal that CC can continue a “More Please Signal.”

MYTH #5: BAT works the dogs over threshold.

TRUTH: A BAT trainer only allows the dog to walk to a point where they are curious, but not over threshold.

Overall pointed out inexperienced handlers can put dogs over threshold with BAT, but that is a risk with any protocol. With BAT, watching the dog for signs of stress is our main focus. Traditional CC/DS can also be done incorrectly, too. In that case, the animal is often over the fear threshold but the person does not notice because they are using ‘the dog is eating’ as the criteria for being under threshold and there is also a competing reinforcer that influences behavior. BAT clients are able to keep their dogs under threshold during training by learning to watch their dogs’ behavior. Two-way communication is an invaluable skill for anyone with a dog.

The “upsetting stimulus” that Overall mentions is the same exact stimulus used in traditional CC/DS. We usually begin at a much greater distance than with those protocols, because there is no food to distract the dog in a basic BAT set-up. If it is not possible to move far enough away that the dog is below threshold, then we will use Stages 2 or 1 of BAT, which are versions of BAT that use food to help the dog handle the proximity of the trigger because they are in ‘working mode.’

We use these stages only when necessary, because of the distraction factor that I mentioned above. When she is focusing on getting treats from the handler, the dog is no longer able/motivated to fully take in information about the trigger. The dog is much less likely to exchange social cues with the trigger while she is in working mode. Of course, paying less attention to the trigger is helpful for urgent situations and when you first start working up close, but we switch back to ‘regular BAT’ whenever possible for maximum learning.

At any rate, the point is that we are using the same stimulus and the major difference is that BAT gives the dog more control over leaving and approaching while traditional CC/DS provides something appetitive. If it’s the same stimulus, at a further distance, but we are allowing the dog to sniff and look at the trigger instead of feeding her a treat, how could that possibly be less humane?

MYTH #6: BAT just teaches animals to avoid or tolerate situations.

TRUTH: BAT dogs learn to enjoy people, dogs, etc. and know how to reduce stress when needed.

The goal with BAT is not to “teach the dog that he can tolerate avoiding other dogs,” as Overall writes, but rather to have the dog able to fully assess a situation and offer pro-social behavior and interaction when she desires and appropriate cut-off behavior in any situation in which she is uncomfortable. As the dog’s ability to control the level of social interaction increases, it seems that she feels more and more comfortable interacting. This is true of humans who learn active coping strategies.

Based on behavior, this appears to be true of dogs and other animals using BAT, as well. So instead of a dog who can pass by a trigger because she has associated it with amazing treats (or worse, fears a correction from a collar), we have a dog who acts like a real dog and is able to truly check things out without the need for micromanagement from the handler.

Overall writes, “If dogs learn to have the expectation that if they just stand there the other dog will leave, we have provided them with some very flawed real-world applications.” This may be true of CAT. There is nothing about this statement that accurately reflects BAT, which emphasizes natural behavior and movement of the student dog. The lesson to the dog is “you have the power to de-escalate this situation peacefully.” BAT also includes very careful leash handling skills and long lines/harnesses so that the dogs have the maximum freedom of movement.

MYTH #7: BAT forces dogs to be in stressful situations. The R- in BAT is just like choke chains.

TRUTH: BAT teaches the dog that she can always leave, which allows her to learn more about “real life” and build confidence. Teaching a dog to self-soothe in a low-stress way is empowering and humane.

Overall worries about flooding, which is placing the dog in a situation that the animal would not choose and then prohibiting escape. Flooding can happen with CAT, but not BAT. It is very important to me to build up the concept of choice, not to destroy it. It is really unfortunate that BAT and CAT have been lumped together in Overall’s book and in some people’s minds.

With BAT, the dog is always allowed to leave. We never force a dog to go forward nor do we keep the dog in a place where she does not want to be using force or treats. We walk with the dog only to the point of curiosity and slow her down to a stop. We then wait for the dog to gather information and then disengage from the trigger. We verbally ask “Done?” (I originally recommended using “Yes” as the marker signal) and begin to move away. If the dog does not come with us, we wait for the dog to gather more information and fully disengage, then ask again if she is “done.” If moving away is too challenging, then we take not of that and stop her farther from the trigger the next time.

Overall writes, “even if flooding is not involved, both BAT and CAT are forms of negative reinforcement. Simply, the reward is the release from having to be in the presence of the upsetting stimulus. This is the same principle on which the use of choke collars is based, and these techniques carry the same risks of recidivism or worsening of behaviors that choke collars carry.”

There are a lot of points that I’d like to discuss from this paragraph. First of all, flooding is not possible in BAT, because in BAT there is movement of the student dog and the dog is always allowed to leave at any point, no matter the behavior. Unlike in CAT, there is no risk of using extinction; extinction is not used in BAT. If the dog goes over threshold during BAT, we simply encourage her to leave and calm down.

A major concern that positive trainers have is that BAT uses R-, which is not supposed to be done until we’ve exhausted all other options. One thing to remember is that the primary way that BAT changes the dog’s emotional response to the trigger appears to be from a desensitization process that the dog controls. The operant piece is that the association of the trigger with the ability to handle the situation and yes, that’s R-. (That’s a hypothesis–we don’t actually know that reinforcement is happening at all. The great behavior change could just be desensitization or even R+ for looking at the trigger, but it is likely involve at least some R-). There is also R+ in BAT in the form of interaction with the handler and later with the trigger. First the dog learns that she can always move away whenever she wants to, because cut-off signals are reinforced with moving away. Then because of reduced arousal (desensitization) the dog has a chance to experience something pleasant, and social behavior from the student dog is reinforced by social behavior from the former trigger.

Nobody’s worried about the R+ aspects of BAT, so let’s look at the R-. In BAT, the R- does not involve the application of an aversive TO the animal—the aversive (the other dog) is self applied as the dog walks toward it. This is different from CAT, traditional pressure-release training with horses, and the use of choke chains.

Furthermore, the aversive used with BAT is the trigger, not an artificial device like a choke chain. It is the same aversive used in all rehabilitation protocols, and usually we start farther away than you would with treats. With BAT, we are not applying pressure to get some unrelated, trainer-desired behavior. We take an environmental pressure that already exists and teach the dog to eliminate her own stress using natural behaviors chosen by her.

We allow her to approach the stimulus that triggers her fear/aggression and retreat from it whenever she wants. The human’s role in BAT is primarily to gently stop the dog at the point of curiosity, before she goes too close—not to pull her toward the trigger. We neither train any specific behavior that we desire, nor do we create pressure to get it. We are not teaching the dogs merely to escape, but to thrive because they now have coping skills. They have to live with dogs/men/kids in their world and BAT teaches them to do that in a very natural way, driven by the dog’s own curiosity. BAT is dog-centric.

There is no positive punishment aspect. If there were, the approach behavior would decrease, but it doesn’t. A BAT dog approaches more and more and begins to offer exploratory and pro-social behavior, indicating that the trigger has become less aversive. To my knowledge, there is no research on this kind of R- and claiming that it has the same effects as choke chains is not justified.

MYTH #8: This is stressful for the decoy dog.

TRUTH: BAT should be low-stress for all animals involved.

Another issue Overall writes about is that the decoy/helper dog would feel stressed. I agree that this is important. I never support the use of a stressed dog, regardless of the training role. With BAT, the wellbeing of the decoy is an important component of the protocol. It seems very irresponsible to me to allow the decoy to have to stand there while the student dog barks, lunges, etc., as in CAT or correction-based training.

As with any systematic desensitization protocol, the handler of the helper dog should monitor stress. BAT takes care to minimize stress in all of the dogs and even the humans within the situation. A relaxed, non-threatened decoy is key as he aids the student dog in offering up her own good choices in pro-social behavior. Because of the fluidity of BAT, the decoy dog’s movement does not impact the core principles of BAT. The decoy dog can be doing BAT herself, getting treats, or doing something else to make the situation pleasant.

CONCLUSION When Karen Overall takes the time to learn about BAT, I believe she will realize that she has misinformed her readers, and will change the assessment of BAT in her (otherwise fabulous) book.

To those of you who haven’t yet learned about BAT because you are concerned about ethics and quadrants: Please take the time to understand BAT and the power that it gives to dogs and other animals. You will find it that it meshes well with other positive training techniques that you already use.

When you actually do BAT yourself you will see where the ‘trendiness’ comes from: empowerment training is humane, makes a lot of sense, and is very effective. Thank you for reading this through!

Please comment below and feel free to share on Facebook. 🙂

Streaming Video: A Critical Comparison of 7 Methods for Fear-Based Aggression

Many dogs do not come to us as clean slates. They have already gone through a variety of other training techniques from the owners and potentially other trainers. It is helpful to know exactly how the other techniques are done so that we can help our clients decide what is best for their dogs.

This new streaming video lecture compares 7 different common methods for rehabilitating fear-based aggression from a humane training perspective, including force-free techniques and punishment methods from popular books and videos. Click here to learn more or buy now!

Instructor’s Course Scholarship Unites Hawai’i and Alaska

Tomoko Nakagawa of Hawai’i is the winner of a $400 scholarship to the BAT Instructor’s Course in Anchorage, Alaska.

Here’s a quote from Tomoko about BAT:

“BAT is the way of helping dogs with reactivity issues by teaching them how to control social and environmental pressures in peaceful manners by using their own language, and they can earn the same functional rewards which they originally wanted with problem behaviors. The dogs will be empowered by learning that they can make choices to deal with situations, and their human understand and respect the choices, which will help rebuilt the trust between dogs and their owners.”

New Radio Interview on BAT

BAT logo

Listen to this Alaska radio interview from yesterday about BAT. It covers some information about what BAT is, why I moved to Alaska in the dead of winter last year, and the upcoming seminars in that state. I’m doing a 2-hour public BAT seminar in Anchorage next week Saturday, August 10, from 10 am to noon and the 5-day instructor’s course for dog trainers in Anchorage at the end of August. Both should be fun and informative. 🙂

Click here to listen to the podcast. Thanks in advance for sharing with your friends on Facebook or elsewhere. The link is http://dogworksradio.com/2013/07/31/dog-talk-radio-presents-grisha-stewart/

Take the Hint: How to Use the 5-Second Rule for Petting Dogs

Do you love to pet your dog? Does she love it too? Are you sure? Don’t be the guy who can’t take a hint! Part of BAT is understanding your dog’s cut-off signals, and if you are constantly petting her or him, it’s hard to see them.

Here’s a way to ask your dog if he or she likes the way you are petting. I call it the 5-second rule, and every person who interacts with a dog, cat, or even horse should know it, because it’s excellent bite prevention and also just basic polite manners!

Continue reading Take the Hint: How to Use the 5-Second Rule for Petting Dogs

Grisha Speaks Italian (not)

I don’t actually speak Italian, but my seminar on aggression, frustration and fear in dogs this summer in Italy will be translated into Italian. Here is a video of an interview with me and Daniela Cardillo, the host for the seminar in Milan on 22-23 June, 2013. I’m dubbed over in Italian…

“BAT SEMINAR in Italia il 22 e 23 giugno 2013, con Grisha Stewart”

Direct link for sharing on Facebook or Twitter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lcvg61c2BvU

BAT Empowers Choices

BAT is a systematic desensitization protocol that reinforces behavior as well. The core idea of BAT is to empower dogs to make better choices. This works for all sorts of reactivity issues, but let’s look at BAT for a dog whose behavior indicates fear. For this dog, we would set up multiple situations where the dog can calmly look at the ‘scary monster’ (trigger) and decide that it is not a threat. We let the dog walk toward the trigger and then stop him just at the point where he begins to focus on it. Then we watch for behavior like turning the head away, turning the body, shaking off, etc.

It’s not quite just that, however. There are head turns and there are head turns. There is a small head turn (head only) that seems to be a sort of way to assess the situation, “if I turn my head, what do you do?” and then there is the sort where the dog’s body curves and the head turns, and you can tell that the dog is really ‘done’ looking and gathering information. Usually there is a big blink before this sort of turn.
Continue reading BAT Empowers Choices

BAT Interview with Victoria Stilwell

If you are wondering what BAT is about or how to use it with your dog, check out this interview on Behavior Adjustment Training with dog trainer Victoria Stilwell from the TV show “It’s Me or the Dog” http://positively.com/2012/12/13/positively-podcast-episode-311 (Interview with Grisha Stewart is just over 5 minutes. It starts at 22:40 and goes to about 36:00.)

Some of what Victoria said about BAT in the interview: “It’s not just about stuffing food in your dog’s face. It’s about giving your dog what it needs to be successful in this crazy domestic world with us….You’re working along with the dog. I think that’s crucial. So people, if you are out there and you have a question….about how to deal with reactive dogs… you’re going to get better results from doing techniques like the BAT technique. I’ve seen it done, I’ve done it myself, I’ve seen it on videos and Grisha’s DVDs, I’ve heard about it from trainers all over the world who use it. This is a great technique and this is something else that you can do with your reactive dog to help it cope with the world around it.” (our emphasis)

Question: Can you use BAT for a fearful/nonaggressive dog?

I was asked this question on Facebook today.

The answer?

Yes, definitely! The protocol is exactly the same for fearful dogs who are not barking as those who are barking/biting. One change is that you can also reward approach behaviors some of the time. But I like to let the dog still check things out fully, so I often still wait until the dog disengages before saying “yes” and walking away.

Continue reading Question: Can you use BAT for a fearful/nonaggressive dog?

Halloween BAT Tips

Guest blog by Charmaine Anthony, CPDT-KA, CBATI (Blue Line Dog Training)

Halloween is in full swing in many neighborhoods where yards can be filled with monsters, webs, and fences that were not there the day before. This is a perfect opportunity to practice BAT set ups! First and foremost, walk past the decorations from many angles without your dog, if that is possible. Some of the decorations may have mechanical movements, sounds or flashing lights. Continue reading Halloween BAT Tips

New interview on BAT

Naturally Happy Dogs, a video magazine based in the UK, has published some interviews of me talking about BAT. I thought I’d share the links in my blog, in case you wanted to check them out!

  • Introduction: a free video that introduces you to BAT–what BAT is, how and when it started, and more.
  • BAT for the Vacuum Cleaner. This is a 15-minute demo of using BAT for a dog who was attacking the vacuum cleaner. Requires a paid subscription to Naturally Happy Dogs.

Dog-Dog Issues Article

For a big list of articles and videos including some description of BAT, check out our page called “Other Sites with Info on BAT” under the “More on BAT” tab of this website. Here’s a new one that has just been added:

Sarah Stremming of the Cognitive Canine has written a nice article series on dog reactivity issues. There is a nice comparison of methods at http://thecognitivecanine.wordpress.com/2011/12/13/dog-dog-issues-series-part-two-treating-leash-reactivity/

“Why Do You Use the Name BAT Instead of Scientific Terms?”

‎This is paraphrased from a Facebook post: why don’t we stick to the scientific terminology when explaining BAT? You do know that the science already existed, right?

Thank goodness for the scientific background! It helps to show why BAT works so well. But we can’t always use the scientific terms in explanations, certainly not with our students. If we did that all of the time, we would be writing canis lupis familiaris in our emails to clients, instead of the word dog. And of course, that would be silly, right?

New Yahoo group for Shelter Staff

I created a new discussion group as a creative space for shelter staff and volunteers to discuss using BAT to rehabilitate dogs in their care. Training in the shelter environment has special challenges and so does working with foster dogs who will have new families, so working with either group is a fair topic. The focus should be on the aspects of training that are unique to work with dogs who are permanently in a shelter or up for adoption, versus dogs who have permanent homes with human families. Case studies, questions, suggestions, etc. are all welcome.

Shelter/rescue staff and volunteers (including foster parents) can join this new group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/shelterbat

May seminars: Ohio and Rhode Island

I have a few seminars coming up that don’t have websites, so I wanted to say a little about them.

  • Warwick, Rhode Island: May 5, 2012, full-day seminar on BAT. Hosted by Susan Parker, contact dynamic.dog.lady@gmail.com for registration and information.
  • Toledo, Ohio: May 6, 2012, 4-hour seminar on BAT. Hosted by Tina Ferner and Agility Angels. Contact tinaferner@netzero.net for registration and information.
  • Mentor, Ohio: May 7, 2012, 4-hour seminar on Troubled Teens and BAT. This actually has a website, but I’m mentioning it since it’s on the same trip as the other seminars. http://diggingdogs.biz/CURRENT-EVENTS.html

Dog is Afraid of My Husband

A person posted this problem on my blog. Her foster dog had become slightly used to her husband using classical counterconditioning and systematic desensitization. But unless the husband was seated or lying down, the foster dog would bark, growl, and lunge. She wanted ideas on applying BAT to this situation. Here was my suggestion.

The benefit of living with the Scary Monster (your husband) is that you can do lots of short set-ups. In between, let your dog rest well – with a chew bone or whatever in another room (separate from hubby, ideally not alone unless the dog prefers that). I think you might be able to make a lot of progress this weekend if you strictly kept them apart except for multiple 5-30 minute sessions. Take 1-2 hours in between, longer if you went over threshold, shorter if it was fun.

You’ve already gotten him used to sitting and lying down with CC/DS. I would still do some BAT set-ups in those positions, as an easy way to get started. There may be some conflict because of the lack of balogna. If so, do Stage 2 BAT at first. Make a list of all the scary things your husband might do in real life and work on the more common ones first, at a distance. Ex: standing up, talking, moving arms, walking toward , hugging a child or you, putting shoes on, wearing a hat, carrying a box…

Work outside if any of these things are too challenging in a Stage 3 set-up indoors. Use Stages 1 or 2 (food plus retreat as rewards) if you have to.

2 BAT Talks at APDT

20111021-091349.jpg
(Lili Chin and I at the book signing)

I did two talks on BAT at the US conference for positive dog training hosted by the APDT. There was a 90 minute talk with videos and a 3 hour talk with live demo. I think both turned out well! Dogwise said they sold all but 4 of the BAT books they brought, and lots of awesome trainers came up to tell me they enjoyed the talk, so I think I did ok getting the word out about BAT.

There were a lot of people interested in participating in the research study on BAT, which will begin in earnest early next year. I’ll post info here soon.

I now get November and December off from speaking, then a full 2012 series of seminars (see many of them on the right of this page). Happy BATting!

Animal Cafe Interviews Grisha about BAT

Check this out! If you are interested in learning more about BAT in an audio form, please visit the Animal Cafe to hear an interview with me by Kelly Dunbar. Animal Cafe is a great new venue with a variety of well-known dog bloggers doing not just regular blog posts, but also podcasts.

The interview is about 2o minutes long. We go over some of the basics and some of the questions you might have about BAT. If you like the interview, please share on FB, Twitter, or whatever else you’re on these days. 🙂

Question: Can BAT be done with a deaf dog?

BAT (and ‘regular’ clicker training) can easily be adapted to use with a deaf dog. Just use a what I call a hand flash (5-fist-5 toward your dog) in place of the verbal marker or clicker. You may need a tactile (touch) signal to click when your dog is not looking at you.

With BAT, that means you’ll be using the hand flash for the times when you’d use a marker or a tactile signal (like a touch to the tail or rump) in place of the clicker if the dog isn’t looking at you. Be sure to pre-train that!

Update: Check out the Deaf Dogs webinar in the Academy!

Short BAT Clip – Fear of an Object

This BAT video was taken by Rachel Bowman of Bowman’s Canine in San Diego, who’s kindly given me permission to share it with you. She’s using BAT to help her foster dog, Theo, get used to the scary things out in the world.

Note that the talking during much of the training was this trainer’s choice for this dog, not officially part of BAT. I usually recommend being fairly quiet at the ‘choice point’ while the dog gathers info and then usually chooses to disengage. Praise is highly recommended after the YES marker!

Direct link: http://youtu.be/RnSYmCngByc

Question: BAT in a car?

Question: I’m curious how BAT could (or maybe it can’t?) be used for dogs that bark at people and/or dogs while riding in the car? Obvioulsy crating the dog up to reduce visual stimulus wouuld be ideal, but for situations where this is not possible, any ideas???

Grisha’s Answer: BAT can definitely be used for issues in the car. You do want to block the view for times when you’re not training, as you mentioned, via a crate, curtains, or a calming cap. The functional reward is still distance, which can be done by the other person/dog walking away or by letting the dog out of the car to walk away. I’ve done it both ways and I think they prefer the latter.

Visual barriers are important to keep the dog from rehearsing the stress and behavior of barking. If a visual barrier is really not possible, then you might want to do counterconditioning while driving (passenger feeds dog or use the remote on a Manners Minder to feed the dog in the back seat). Thundershirts, Anxiety Wraps, or home-made wraps using tight t-shirts or ace bandages are also great for calming dogs down in the car. But training or a visual barrier is the only ‘foolproof’ solution.